How to Make a Dinosaur Tail

How to Make a Dinosaur Tail.

A dinosaur tail can be used in a Halloween costume or be a new accessory for a dress-up game. Best of all, this fun, brightly-colored tail only takes 1-2 hours to make. If you’re familiar with a sewing machine, you can stitch your dinosaur tail together. For a quicker assembly, you can use hot glue. It only takes a few pieces of fabric and some fiber stuffing to take your child’s imagination to the next level!

Method 1 Creating a No-Sew Dinosaur Tail.
1. Cut a series of triangles into a long strip of fabric. Snip out a line of connected triangles from the strip. The total length of the strip should be 24 inches (61 cm) by 2 inches (5.1 cm). When you’re done, the felt should look like a miniature mountain range. Set this aside for later.
This strip will become the spikes of the dinosaur tail, so feel free to pick a bright, fun color!
When flattened, the fabric will look like a row of diamonds. This will be fixed later on when the spikes are folded and glued together.
Use fabric scissors for a quicker and smoother cut.
2. Trace the edge of a bowl onto the main fabric and cut it out. Flip over a bowl and trace its circumference onto the felt. The diameter of the bowl will be the width of your dinosaur tail, so make sure that it’s wide enough.
3. Cut out 2 strips of fabric for the waist straps and glue them in place. Use fabric scissors to cut 24 inches (61 cm) by 2 inches (5.1 cm) rectangular strips from the tail fabric. Then, fold in the edges lengthwise and glue them into place. Fold the fabric in half again and glue both sides together so the straps are less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick.
4. Crease and glue the line of fabric spikes together. Use short lines of hot glue to connect the folded spikes. Instead of looking like a row of diamonds, the felt will now look like a row of triangles.
5. Cut a large, curved triangle out of fabric to make the base of the tail. Measure out a curved triangle along the edge of a folded piece of fabric. You don’t have to use specific measurements, but make sure that the tail will fit around your circular piece.
6. Attach the spikes to the inner seam of the tail with hot glue. Use small lines of hot glue to connect the felt spikes with the outer edge of the tail. Apply glue on both sides of the spikes, as this piece will hold the tail together. Put pressure on the glued areas with your fingertips to secure the spiked tail into place.
Use additional glue at the pointy end of the tail to provide extra support.
Add extra glue as needed to connect the rest of the tail together.
7. Put fiber stuffing into the tail until it’s fully stuffed. Take a bag of fiber filling and stuff the tail completely. Place as much or as little stuffing as you would like inside.
Make sure that the pointy end of the tail is completely filled before continuing to stuff the rest.
8. Glue the waist straps and circular piece to the inside of the tail’s base. Take the waist strips and glue them on opposite ends of one another, using small lines of hot glue. These straps should be perpendicular to the line of spikes. Make sure that the circular base is glued snugly over the waist straps and is covering the end of the tail.
You can tie the waist straps together to secure the tail when your child wears it.

Method 2 Cutting and Sewing a Tail Shape.
1. Fold the fabric in half and mark 12 inches (30 cm) above the crease. Take 1 yard (0.91 m) of fabric and fold it in half horizontally. Use a tape measure (preferably non-mechanical) and mark 12 inches (30 cm) above your starting point on the fold. This indicates the height of your dinosaur tail.
Make sure that your measuring tape expands to at least 3 feet (0.91 m).
2. Make a second mark 24 inches (61 cm) down the fabric. Measure 24 inches (61 cm) from your starting point and mark the fabric. This 24 inches (61 cm) distance will serve as the length of your dinosaur tail.
Make sure that you have enough fabric for these measurements.
3. Make a third mark 2 inches (5.1 cm) above the second mark. Take your measuring tape and make a dot 2 inches (5.1 cm) above the second mark. This third measurement represents the pointy, bottom end of the tail.
4. Connect the 3 marks with a marker and cut out the tail shape. Use a fabric marker to sketch the line that connects these three points before removing the piece with scissors or a rotary cutter. Rotary cutters can be found at most craft stores, and provide a more even and exact cut along the edge of your fabric.
If you want to make your lines exact, use these measurements to sketch and cut a template out of cardboard beforehand.
5. Trace a plate on fabric twice to create 2 circles for the tail’s base. Place a ceramic plate onto the fabric and cut around it with scissors or a rotary cutter. Repeat this process so that you have 2 circles. The diameter of this circle will be the width of your dinosaur tail.
Use folded fabric if you want to cut 2 circles out at once.
6. Measure and cut out 2 pieces of fabric to create the waist straps. Use a measuring tape to mark and cut out 2 strips of fabric. The length should be 12 inches (30 cm), and the width should be 4 inches (10 cm).
These strips will help attach the dinosaur to a child’s waist.

Method 3 Adding the Spikes and Waist Straps.
1. Sketch a series of triangles onto a piece of felt using a fabric marker. Use a ruler or measuring tape to sketch a row of triangles onto the felt. Make the triangles, which will be the tail spikes, about 2 inches (5.1 cm) tall and 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide. Ensure that there’s 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) between each spike.
You can make the spikes bigger or smaller, depending on how you want the tail to look at the end.
You can also make individual triangular spikes.
2. Arrange the cut spikes on the edge of the tail fabric and pin them in place. Use fabric scissors to cut the spikes out of the felt. Begin constructing your dinosaur tail by positioning the trail of spikes between the folds of the base tail fabric. Pin the spikes so that they face inward, as you will be sewing the fabric from the inside out.
3. Use a sewing machine to attach the spikes to the main fabric. Feed the fabric through the machine to stitch the base tail fabric and spikes together. Go along the curved shape of the tail, leaving less than a 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) of space between the stitches and the fabric’s edge.
Pinch and tug on the fabric on the inside of the tail to pull the tail right side out.
Remember to remove the pins from the fabric as you sew.
4. Fold and pin the waist strap fabric at the ends before sewing the edges together. Crease the fabric along the center so that the short ends are touching, and use a few pins to secure the fabric in this position. Stitch the edges together lengthwise, but leave the shorter end open. Pinch the fabric on the inside of the stitching to pull the straps right side out.
You’ll be stitching the shorter, unsewn ends of the waist straps into the base of the tail.
5. Stitch the Velcro rectangles to the straps and attach the waist straps to the tail. Take a small rectangle of Velcro and place it on the sewn end of the waist strap before stitching it into place with a sewing machine. Then, take the unstitched ends of the waist straps and pin them to the inside of the tail. Make sure that the straps are placed perpendicular to the spikes before sewing them into place. Check to see that the strap is long enough to wrap around a child’s waist. Pin the straps onto the tail and sew them into place.
You can purchase Velcro at a craft store.
You can also sew Velcro by hand.
6. Pin the base circles along the edges and stitch together. Take the 2 base circles and secure them with pins along the edges. Make sure that the circles are centered against one another before you sew them together.
Leave at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of space to turn the circle right side out.
After sewing the edges together, pinch and tug at the inner fabric of the circle to make pull it right side out.
7. Fill the tail with stuffing until it has a firm shape. Take fiber filling and stuff the base of the tail. Use as much fiber as you need to completely fill the dinosaur tail.
You can buy fiber filling at a craft store. You may need more than one bag to fully stuff the tail.
8. Use a ladder stitch to close off the base and complete the tail. Tuck and fold the excess fabric into the tail before sewing it shut with a ladder stitch. This part can be completed by hand.
The ladder stitch helps all portions of stitching to look uniform.

Tips.
Iron your material beforehand to remove any wrinkles. Take an iron and apply heat to your fabric in long, even strokes. Loosely woven fabrics like cotton and linen are great options to make a dinosaur tail, or you can opt for satin if you want a shinier look. Check the care label on your fabric to ensure that it can be ironed before you proceed.
Things You’ll Need.
Creating a No-Sew Dinosaur Tail.
Fabric.
Felt.
Bowl.
Fabric marker.
Hot glue gun.
Hot glue sticks.
Scissors.
Cutting and Sewing a Tail Shape.
Fabric.
Measuring tape.
Fabric marker.
Scissors.
Rotary cutter (optional).
Plate.
Adding the Spikes and Waist Straps.
Felt.
Pins.
Sewing machine.
Scissors.
Small Velcro rectangles
Fiber stuffing.
Measuring tape.
Fabric marker.
Sewing needle.
Thread.

Maret 21, 2020

how to create clay animals

How to Create Clay Animals.

Making clay animals is a great way to turn a dull afternoon into an exciting craft day. With a little effort and a lot of imagination, you can turn your clay dough into a jungle. Once you've mastered animal how-tos, you can create creatures of all colors, shapes, and sizes. All you need is some clay, some around-the-house tools, and a love of animals to create your own mini zoo.



Method 1 Rolling Clay Snakes.

1. Roll a piece of clay between your fingers. Choose your favorite color or just a color you think would make a good snake. Put a piece of clay between your hands and roll it back and forth until you make a long, log shape. You can continue rolling until the snake is as thin or thick as you'd like.

Go as quickly or slowly as you like, depending on how closely you want to monitor your clay log's length.

Be careful not to make your clay log too thin, as it will progressively get more delicate the thinner it gets.

2. Flatten one end of the snake for a head. Poke two holes into the head with a toothpick for eyes, or add a pair of small googly eyes. You can also roll two tiny clay balls between your finger and your thumb and attach them for eyes, if you have neither a toothpick nor googly eyes available.

3. Make a tiny clay tongue. For a tongue, grab a piece of red or pink clay and place it between your finger and thumb. Roll it into a log shape, much like how you rolled your snake but on a smaller scale. Split your log in two at one end to create a forked tongue, and attach it to the end of your snake's mouth.

4. Add patterns to its skin, like polka dots or stripes. For polka dots, flatten tiny clay balls with your finger and thumb and attach them to your snakes body. You can make stripes by rolling tiny clay logs and spacing them across the length of your snake.



Method 2 Making Clay Snails.

1. Choose two different colors of clay. Choose colors that stand out next to each other and do not clash. Red and pink, for example, might not be a great idea. Red and orange, though, can make a pleasant sunset-like effect.

Complementary colors, or colors opposite from each other on the color wheel, look especially bright when next to each other.

2. Roll one color into a log. This will be your snail's shell. Continue rolling the clay until it is long and thin. Make the log as long as possible to make a shell with a detailed spiral. Stop rolling when the log is thin enough to fold in on itself but thick enough that it won't break apart.

You might have to try a few times before you find the right thickness for your shell.

3. Fold the log in on itself. Once you've achieved a good length for your shell, fold the log into a spiral. Start at one end of the clay, which will become the middle of your spiral, and keep folding until your clay shape resembles a cinnamon roll. Set the spiral aside after you finish so you can attach it to the body later.

4. Roll a small log to be the snail’s body. This will be your snail's body, so make it thicker and shorter than your snail shell. After you're done rolling, attach the snail's shell into the back of its body. All you have left to add now are facial details.

5. Add antennae and a face. Roll two small logs for the antennae and attach them to the top of your snail's body. Then, poke two holes with your toothpick for the eyes (or add two small googly eyes).

For a mouth, roll another small log and curve it into a smile. Attach it below the snail's eyes.



Method 3 Sculpting Clay Dogs.

1. Start with a thick oval-shaped ball. This will be your dog's body. You can make it out of a normal color for a dog (like brown, black, or white) or you can use vibrant colors like violet, aquamarine, or pink. Lay the oval down horizontally, and prepare to add the dog's head and four legs.

You can make the body a little longer to make a dachshund-type dog (also known as a wiener dog).

If you'd like to make a dalmatian, use white for your dog's body and add flattened ovals for spots.

2. Make a round ball for the head. Attach it to the top of your dog's body. Press it in until the head sticks. Form two triangles or long ovals from the clay, and attach it to the top of your dog's head for ears. Add eyes and a smile, and top off your dog's face with a round oval for a nose.

Place a flattened red or pink half-circle on your dog's mouth for a floppy tongue.

3. Add four rectangles for the legs. For legs, shape four rectangles out of the clay. Place the legs onto the dog in pairs. Two go in the front of the body and two in the back. Scratch in two or three lines at the bottom of the legs for paws.

4. Attach a tail to your dog's body. Roll a small piece of clay back and forth between your hands, much like how you made the snake. Continue rolling until the tail gets to the desired length. Attach the tail to the back end of your dog's body.



Method 4 Creating Clay Birds.

1. Roll an oval for the body. For a bird body, the oval should be long and oblong. Make the bottom end of the oval larger than the top end. Place the oval upright and prepare to add the bird's head.

2. Make a sphere for the bird's head. Attach the head to the top of the oval and press down until it sticks. Stick on (or poke in) two eyes for your bird. For a beak, roll an orange or yellow ball between your finger and thumb. Use the toothpick to draw a slit lengthwise on the ball. Press the back end of the ball onto your bird's head.

Stretch the top and bottom ends of the beak into points for a less cartoonish beak.

3. Add wings to your bird. Form two ovals out of your clay and flatten them until they are two-dimensional. Place one wing on either side of your bird's body. If desired, you can use the toothpick to draw designs (like feather prints) on your wings.

For a two-colored wing, form two teardrop shapes out of clay and flatten it until it is also two-dimensional. Place one on each of your bird wings.

4. Sculpt two bird feet. Feet on clay birds are optional but can add a nice touch to your bird. Form six small cylindrical tubes. Place the tubes in threes on the bottom of your bird's feet. These will form claws poking out of your bird's body.

Your bird's feet will not be strong enough to support it and may get flattened if placed on a flat surface.



Question : How do I make a butterfly?

Answer : It's really easy. You just make a worm for the body, and make the wings like you make it into a circle, and you kinda make a curve in the middle. Then you can decorate it.

Question : How do I make a fish?

Answer : Take a ball of clay, roll it into a ball, and flatten it. Then, mold it into the desired shape, depending on the type of fish you are making. Make the eyes with black clay and add the details, such as fins. Scales can be made using a toothpick.

Question : How do I create a clay dolphin?

Answer : Curve your log of clay slightly. Pinch one of the ends in the middle so the clay splits off into two parts at the end, and smooth out the two parts of the tail. At the other end, squeeze a tiny bit of the end to create the beak. Poke holes for eyes, and, using a butter knife or your fingernail, press lightly all around the beak to form the mouth. Then, with a toothpick, poke a blowhole on the top of the head. Behind the head, squeeze clay on the back up to make the dorsal fin, and smooth and curve towards the tail. Finally, make the flippers by squeezing clay on the sides directly under the dorsal fin, and smooth out the flippers.

Question : How do I make an authentic clay wolf?

Answer : Make it like a dog, because the two are similar, but if you want to make a howling one, shut the eyes, open the mouth, and tilt it upwards, chin facing down.

Question : How do I make a clay jaguar?

Answer : You mold it the same as you would with a cat, but when it dries, paint spots.

Question : How do I make a whale out of clay?

Answer : Make a fish shape with blue clay, but make the tail end face upward and downward. Make a hole on the top (don't make gills or scales) for the blowhole.

Question : Can the spots be made of clay that isn't cured?

Answer : Yes, if you don't have time to let it cure or paint. It's okay with play dough or people in a hurry.

Question : How do I make a snake?

Answer : Making a snake is very easy. Just roll out a log of clay. Make one end pointy and the other end flat. Add two black eyes with clay, beads, or poke the head (the flat end) with a toothpick to make eyes. Add a forked tongue if desired. Add dots, swirls, patterns, lines, and twirls if desired.

Question : Can I create clay animals out of Play-Doh?

Answer : Yes, if it is just temporary. But if you are looking to make it permanent, then no.

Question : How do I make a clay cat?

Answer : You'll need seven pieces of clay: four feet, one long one for the body, a ball for the head and a long skinny piece for the tail. Pinch up two ears on top the head and draw in the face and whiskers. You can also make whiskers by rolling very thin bits of clay.



Tips.

Sculpt your animals out of salt-based clay so can bake them in the oven and keep them once they harden.

Thin parts of the animals, like ears and tails, are fragile. Handle these areas gently as you create your animals.

Once you've mastered these animals, get creative and make your own clay animal designs. You can make any clay animal that you set your mind to!

If your animal doesn't turn out the way you'd like, don't feel bad. The best part about clay is that you can always start over.

You can buy inexpensive jewelry findings from craft stores. Try using these to make your animals into unique, handmade jewelry.

Things You'll Need : Clay, Toothpicks, Googly eyes.

Februari 24, 2020

how to make ping pong ball chicks

How to Make Ping Pong Ball Chicks.

Ping pong ball chicks are an easy way to make little chickens for craft or decoration. They're a great idea for spring craft projects, for Easter decorations or just because you love chickens. The children will enjoy making these neat little chicks and it's an affordable toy or craft.



Steps.

1. Paint the ping pong balls yellow. Make sure the entire ball is painted yellow. Hang or rest in an egg carton to dry. They must be completely dry before proceeding with the next steps.

2. Make the beaks.

Cut long diamonds from the orange felt. You'll need one orange diamond one per bird.

Fold in half to create a beak. Keep pinched with your fingers.

Glue in place on the fold line/area on the ping pong ball. The triangle edges will stick forward to form the beak shape.

Repeat for each chick you're making.

3. Create eyes. Draw on eyes with the black Sharpie marker.

You can also create eyes with eye stickers, but handmade ones are fast and easy to do, plus you have plenty of creative leeway to make the eye shapes any way you like (try anime style, for example), and with or without eyelashes too.

Repeat for each chick you're making.

4. Make the wings for the chick.

For each bird being made, cut out two wings from the yellow felt. Cut the wings in a rounded way, not spiky or too textured. Keep the chick looking soft and cute!

Glue the wings in place on the sides of the chick.

Repeat for each chick you're making.

5. Shape legs from the wire.

At the end of each leg, shape the three "toes." You'll need to play around with the balance a little, to be sure that the toes enable the chick to stand.

When finished, glue the legs firmly in place. Allow to dry completely.

Paint the legs completely using orange paint.

Repeat for each chick you're making.

6. Display the finished chicks. Place on a tabletop or in a basket. If used as a toy, do not give to children under 3, as the small parts are a safety hazard.



Tips.

Looks at pictures of chicks online for design or coloring ideas.

If you want to make the chick look more realistic, add a yellow pom pom for a head, using the ping pong as the body.

Warnings.

Neither the project nor the end result are suitable for children under three, due to the small parts.

Use orange pipe cleaners (chenille sticks) in place of wire if you're concerned about children being scratched by the wire.

Wire feet may scratch tabletops and other fine surfaces. If this is going to be a problem, glue the chick to a square piece of fine card and place that on the surfaces instead.

Things You'll Need.

Yellow paint.

Orange paint.

Black Sharpie or other permanent marker brand.

Orange felt.

Yellow felt.

Thin craft wire (or use orange pipe cleaners and skip the orange paint).

Scissors.

Glue.

Februari 08, 2020

how to make a bird nest

How to Make a Bird Nest.

A bird's nest makes a wonderful mantelpiece decoration, and can make use of almost anything you find along a nature hike, or in your front yard. Wild birds usually prefer to make their own nests, but you can lure many species to your yard by leaving the right materials outside, or building a nesting box.

Method 1 Building a Decorative Nest.

1. Find long, flexible plant stems. These will form the main shape of the nest, and are much easier to work with than hard, short twigs. You can use straw, long grass, vines, willow fronds, bendy reeds, or seagrass found outdoors or at a garden supply store. Raffia is another good option, obtainable from a craft supply store.

If Mexican feather grass grows in your area, grab a clump of it and pull your hand upward to remove a handful of hairy seeds clinging together. Once you have enough seeds, clump them into a ball and make a nest shape by sticking your thumb into it.

2. Bend the stems into a loop. Grab a thick handful of the stems, and bend them into a U shape, adding more stems if necessary to form a full circle. Tie it in place using a piece of string or florist wire. If the plant stems have many little leaves, or if they're wiry and dry, you can even weave them together without using any attachment.

If tying the nest together is too hard, you can clip them temporarily in place while waiting for glue to dry. Don't use glue if you plan to keep the nest outdoors.

If your fresh-cut plants won't stay in position, try hanging up the bundle in a windy area to dry for 24 hours. Some plant stems are easier to bend when fresh, but grasses and straw benefit from drying.

3. Shape the rest of the nest. Grab a second, smaller handful of stems and shape it into a smaller loop. Wedge this inside the larger loop and push it downward to form the base of the loop. Depending on how well the stems fit together and how sturdy you want the nest to be, you may need to use a thread  or glue to fasten the two loops together.

4. Decorate with scavenged materials. Real birds sometimes spend days collecting bits and pieces to build a nest. Hopefully you're a little faster, but you can still have fun gathering objects from nature or your craft boxes. Here are some ideas to get you started:

If you plan to leave the nest outside, only use materials found outdoors, and nothing that could hurt an animal.

Feathers and pieces of eggshell fit the theme. Be aware that collecting most wild feathers is illegal in the United States, but they are mostly harmless from a disease perspective.

Look for twigs, leaves, bark, and moss in interesting shapes and colors.

If the nest is for indoor decoration, you can use bits of string, colored paper shreds, and confetti.

5. Place eggs inside (optional). Finish your art project by placing eggs or fake eggs inside the nest. You can quickly add marbles or colorful pebbles, or hollow out real eggs, decorate them, or even carve them if you have the right tools.

Things You'll Need.

Any long, flexible bundle of stems, grass, or straw, String, florist's wire, or glue (recommended unless stems interweave easily).

Moss, bark, twigs, or other decorative materials, Eggs and egg-blowing materials (optional), Marbles, pebbles, or other "fake eggs" (optional).

Method 2 Attracting Wild Birds to Nearby Nests.

1. Look up the nesting habits of local birds. Find a local wildlife guide at a library or bookstore, or search online for information on local birds. Choose one or more species you want to attract, and look up their nesting habits to discover what shape and style of nest will be most effective.

If you live in North America, NestWatch is an excellent resource for nesting information, and one you can expand with your own data.

2. Leave nesting material in your yard. This is an easy way to attract birds, and might be worth it even if you end up building a full nest as well. If you managed to find specific nesting information, you'll know what materials to leave, but you can't go wrong with a few items from the following list, left in visible locations:

Rigid twigs (for platform nest species) and flexible ones (for cup nest species).

Yard clippings such as dry grass and straw, bits of bark and moss, dead leaves, etc.

Human or animal hair or fur (no longer than 6 inches / 15 centimeters).

Yarn or string.

Mud, spiderwebs, and/or caterpillar cocoons to help birds bind nesting materials together.

Never leave out materials that have come into contact with harsh chemicals, including dye, pesticides, or anti-flea treatments. Dryer lint and clothing rags are not recommended.

3. Provide a variety of plants. If you want to attract birds that make nests in existing holes, leave dead tree stumps and fallen logs in the yard. Living trees and bushes will attract more visible nests from other species, especially if the plants are native to your area. For best results, plant a "staircase" of grass or moss, flowering perennials, shrubs, and trees.

4. Build a nesting box. If there aren't obvious crevices or hollows in your yard, building a nesting box or birdhouse is a simple carpentry project. Make sure the birdhouse is constructed to match the size of the birds you want to attract, or the size of the birds you see flying near your home.

For a higher chance of success, follow birdhouse building instructions specific to common North American species.

Clean out the birdhouse regularly whenever birds are not nesting.

5. Make a bird's nest. Many birds prefer to make their own nest rather than move in to a ready-made one. Lining natural hollows with the nesting materials listed above may give a bird an attractive head start. If you want to make a different type of nest, such as a cup or platform nest, it's best to follow the specific habits of the bird species you want to attract. Each species tends to prefer certain materials.

Placement of the nest is also important. Many bird species hide their nest amidst thick branches, but some prefer more open branches, bushes, or open patches of ground. Look for more information on NestWatch, through online searches, or in a local bird nest identification guide.

Things You'll Need.

Any yard clippings, especially twigs and grasses, String or yarn, Mud, spiderwebs, or caterpillar cocoons.

Human hair or animal fur, Small amount of lumber and nails (to build a nesting box, if hollow logs not available).

Question : Where do you get all the supplies?
Answer : You can find the necessary items on the ground in a park or wooded area, perhaps even your back yard!

Question : How do I make the nest big?
Answer : You can use longer sticks that are pliable enough to bend. Just make sure not to break them.

Question : What if I live in the city?
Answer : If you live in the city and want to attract birds, put up bird feeders. Birds love cracked corn, nyjer seeds, black oil seeds, fruits, and millet. Just make sure to take measures to keep the squirrels out.

Question : Am I allowed to take care of a wild baby bird if its mother is away and it's storming outside?
Answer : No. Leave the baby bird alone. Its mother will come back for it. Wild animals can take care of each other and themselves, they very rarely need our help. The bird will be fine in the storm.

Question : How do I make a bottled nest box?
Answer : Just take a milk bottle (not glass) and make an opening in the body of the box. Then take a rope and make holes at the top and tie the rope to the holes. Make sure you make it tight.

Question : Can I hatch the eggs myself?
Answer : If it is a wild bird egg do not touch it. In the USA it is illegal to take care of wild birds.

Question : Can I look at the eggs when they have been laid?
Answer : You can take a peek, as long as the mother bird is not nearby. Make sure you don't touch the eggs, as you will leave a scent behind that the mother bird can detect.

Question : Are most bird nests made of straw, twigs, and mud?
Answer : Yes, that is what a typical bird nest is made of.

Question : What can I do about wild animals that eat the eggs?
Answer : It depends on the animal. For squirrels, you can't really do anything, but for other birds you can find a better spot to put the nesting box. You shouldn't worry too much, because the mother bird will protect it's young with her life.

Question : Can I make a bird nest from leftover grass from a lawn mower?
Answer : Lawn clippings are probably too short to make a decent nest. Maybe if you collect it and dry it out you can use a few pieces to line the nest.

Tips.

For a quick and easy nest, shred or cut a paper bag into thin strips. Line a bowl with a paper towel, arrange the strips over them, then glue the paper bag strips together and let dry into a nest shape.

It’s fine to take a look at the eggs, but be careful, because smart animals like coyotes can follow you to the nest. If you have no predators in the area, taking a look at the eggs will leave a scent, but birds don’t have a sense of smell.

Warnings.

If a wild bird moves in to your nest, don't disturb it or the surrounding area. Watch the nest from somewhere the bird can't see you, or you may scare the bird away or attract predators to the nest.

Januari 20, 2020

how to creating a paper cartoon puppet dino

How to Creating a Paper Cartoon Puppet Dino.

With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.

Steps.

1. Glue a sheet of green construction paper to a piece of thin cardboard. This will make your dinosaur nice and sturdy. If you don’t have any green construction paper, paint the cardboard with green acrylics or poster paint. Let the glue or paint dry before moving on.

The thin cardboard from cereal and snack boxes works great for this!

If you don’t have thin cardboard or construction paper, try green cardstock instead. You can also use poster paper, but you’ll need to paint it.

2. Draw and cut the body, head, tail, and leg shapes from the paper. Look up coloring book or cartoon pictures of long-necked dinosaurs, then break it down into separate body parts. Draw these separately with a pen or pencil, then cut them out. Here are the basic shapes you’ll need.

A long stem with an oval-shaped head, like a brontosaurus or apatosaurus.

A long, tapering tail, like a skinny triangle.

2 rectangular legs.

A mound- or lump- shaped body, like a semicircle but with rounded bottom corners.

3. Make spikes for the dino's back using paper and cardboard if desired. Glue the paper to the cardboard first (or paint the cardboard). Let the paint or glue dry, then draw 4 to 5 triangular spikes. Cut them out, then set them aside.

Use a different color of paint or paper for this. Orange is a great choice, but a lighter or darker shade of green will also work.

You can also make smaller rectangles for nails.

4. Use a pen to poke a hole in the ends of each limb. Make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) away from the center of each edge. A pen or pencil will work just fine for a cardstock dino, but if you used thin cardboard, use a nail to make the holes instead.

You’ll need holes in the following areas: base of the neck, base of the tail, and the top of each leg.

Don’t use a hole punch. The hole will be too big and the brad will fall through.

If you're a child, ask an adult to help you with this step, especially if you're using a nail.

5. Poke 4 holes in the body so that you can secure the limbs. Make 2 holes along the wider, flatter, bottom edge of the body. Poke another set of holes on the sides of the body for the tail and legs. As with the limbs, make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) from the edges.

Don’t poke the neck and tail holes too close to the top; make them closer to the bottom so that your dinosaur has a humped back.

Don’t place the legs too close together. Keep them closer to the bottom corners of the body.

6. Use brads to secure the limbs behind the dinosaur's body. Stick a brad through the front of the neck hole on the body. Slide the neck piece onto the back of the prong, behind the body. Pry open the back of the brad, then press the prongs flat against the back of the dinosaur.

Repeat this step for the tail and both legs. Always add the limbs to the back of the body, not the front.

Make sure that the limbs are facing up as well, otherwise your dinosaur won’t match!

Brad prongs can hurt if they get under your nail. Consider using a butter knife to pry them apart.

7. Glue the spikes to the back of the dinosaur. Flip the dinosaur over so that you can see the back. Draw a line of glue along its back, then add the triangular spikes. Make sure that the flat bases are touching the dinosaur's back while the pointy tips are sticking out.

If you made nails for the dino, glue them to the bottom of each leg.

White school glue and glue sticks will work just fine for this. Hot glue is not recommended because it's too bulky.

8. Give the dinosaur a face. Here is where you can get a little creative. For a simple dinosaur, use a black marker to draw an eye and mouth. For a fancier dinosaur, use hot glue or white school glue to attach a googly eye to the dinosaur's face.

Give your dinosaur more character by adding eyebrows or eyelashes.

Tips.

Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!

Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.

Things You'll Need.

Green construction paper, Orange construction paper, Glue stick, Thin cardboard, 4 brads, Pen or nail, Scissors, White school glue (optional), Googly eye (optional).

Desember 25, 2019

how to make a paper dog

How to Make a Paper Dog.

There are several fun ways to create a paper dog, and luckily all of them require very few materials! Create a fun miniature dog that can stand on its own legs out of origami paper, or make a folded dog face with a playful expression. You could even make paper dog hand puppets to play with!

Method 1 Folding an Origami Dog.

1. Select a piece of origami paper for your dog. Depending on what you have available, choose either a 3 by 3 in (7.6 by 7.6 cm), 6 by 6 in (15 by 15 cm), or 10 by 10 in (25 by 25 cm) piece of paper. The bigger the sheet of paper, the bigger your dog will be. Brown, tan, or white are common dog colors, but don’t hesitate to choose something more unconventional for your origami creation.

If you don’t have origami paper, use something else that is thin and easy to fold, like newspaper, magazine pages, or even wrapping paper. Cut the substitute into the right dimensions so you have a perfectly square piece of paper.

2. Fold the square of paper in half to create a triangle. Take the top-left corner and fold it across so it meets the bottom-right corner, forming a triangle shape. Run your finger along the fold to create a crease.

Use the back of your nail or something hard, like the body of a pen, to make your crease lines more defined.

3. Open the square back up and fold it in half diagonally the other way. Unfold the paper so it is a square again. Make another triangle by folding the top-right corner across to the bottom-left corner. Press down along the fold line to make another crease.

It’s really important in origami to have straight, defined creases. That is what enables your creation to stand upright once you’ve finished.

4. Unfold the square again and place it in front of you. Open up the piece of paper and set it in front of you. Make the bottom of the square parallel to your body.

There should be an “X” formed by the creases on the unfolded piece of paper.

5. Bring the bottom-left corner to the center point of the square and fold. With the square unfolded in front of you, take the bottom-left corner and place its tip in the center of the square, where the 2 creases intersect to create an “X”. Press the fold down to make a crease.

Making firm creases will also keep the folded pieces of paper in place while you work on other sections. Otherwise, you might risk things coming undone and losing your place in your project.

6. Repeat the previous step to bring all the corners to the center. One at a time, take each remaining corner (top left, top right, bottom right) and fold them so their points are in the center of the square. Fold and press down the crease for each corner.

Essentially, this step turns the original square into a smaller square. All the sides should still be equal to one another.

You will now have left, top, right, and bottom sides, with all points meeting in the middle of the square.

7. Open the left flap, fold it in half, and then fold it back in place. Unfold the left-hand side piece of paper. Fold the point in half, so that the tip of it meets the intersection of your previous fold line. Then fold the entire left flap back into place.

There should be an open triangle when you look down at your square.

8. Take the tip of the right flap and fold it back to overlap the edge line. Leave the flap folded to the center point. Take the tip of the corner that is in the center, and fold it back about 2/3rds of the way. Make your crease so that the top forms a triangle that overhangs the outer edge of the square.

Leave the top and bottom flaps in place and don’t do anything to them at this point.

This fold will eventually become the dog’s tail.

9. Fold the entire square in half lengthwise. Pick up the piece of paper. Fold it in half evenly, lengthwise, to create the left and right sides of your origami dog. When the fold is done, set the paper down in front of you so that the pointy tail is pointing to the right.

Take your time when lining up the center fold. If the lines aren’t straight, your dog will be wobbly.

10. Unfold the top flap and crease it from the top-left to bottom-right corner. Unfold the flap of paper from the top section of the dog so that its point is pointing toward your body. Then fold the entire section of paper up, and create a diagonal fold that starts at the top-left corner and finishes at the bottom-right corner.

At this point in the folding process, you’re making the dog’s head and legs.

11. Refold the right edge along the crease line. After making the diagonal fold, take the point of the piece of paper you just folded up, and bring it back down along the original crease line. This creates the slant of the dog’s “leg.”

The bottom edge should be in line with the ground if you were to pretend to stand it up.

12. Repeat the previous 2 steps on the opposite side. Flip the piece of paper over. Unfold the flap of paper and make a diagonal fold from the top-right corner to the bottom-left corner. Then fold the paper back down along its original crease line to form the other leg.

Even though you’re nearing the end, remember to take your time and make your folds as straight and defined as you can.

13. Pull out the fold inside the dog’s “nose.” When you look at the piece of paper, you should now see the dog’s tail, body, triangle legs, and triangle head. Look under the dog’s nose and carefully pull out the fold. This creates the dog’s mouth and gives it a more realistic look.

The crease line creates a jawline for the dog.

14. Draw a nose and eyes onto the dog to complete it. Take a marker and put an eye on each side of the dog, as well as a nose. For the nose, just fill in the area around the front tip of the head. You could also draw a little smile or any other embellishments you feel are appropriate.

Once you get the hang of the pattern, you can make an origami dog in just a few minutes.

Method 2 Creating a Dog Head.

1. Choose a piece of origami paper for your project. Origami-specific paper comes in squares, which means it’s ready to use and you don’t need to cut it at all. The larger the piece of paper you choose, the bigger the dog head will be. Choose a color for your dog, whether that is brown, black, white, tan, or an unconventional color, like blue or green.

If you don’t have origami paper, cut a thin sheet of paper, like newspaper or wrapping paper, into a square.

2. Fold the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner to make a triangle. Match up the 2 corners so that the sides are equal. Press the fold down firmly to create a crease.

To help crease the paper, push the fold down with the back of your nail or with the body of a pen. The stronger the crease, the better definition your dog head will have.

3. Bring the 2 bottom corners together to make a smaller triangle. Leave your first fold in place. Bring the bottom points together and make another fold to form a smaller triangle.

Take your time when making your folds and line up the edges neatly.

4. Unfold the triangle once, and place it so the tip is pointing at your body. Undo the last fold you did so that just the large triangle is left. Position the paper so that the top of the triangle is pointing at you.

You’ll use the center crease as a guide for your future folds.

5. Make a diagonal fold on the right-hand side, starting at the center crease. Make a bigger fold for bigger dog ears or a smaller fold for smaller ears. Make the crease start at the center line and fold the right-side corner down at a diagonal angle.

Keep the fold lined up with the center crease to create a proportional face.

6. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side. Try your best to create the same angle so that your dog’s ears are the same size. Start the diagonal fold at the center-crease line.

When you look down at your paper, you should see a very angular-looking dog head.

7. Fold back the bottom and top points to create straight lines. Fold back the top tip of the dog’s head just enough so that there is a flat line connecting the 2 ears. Fold the bottom tip back to create a jaw line for the dog.

If you need to, use a little bit of glue or double-sided tape to secure the points to the back of the dog’s head.

8. Draw the rest of the dog’s features to complete your project. Use a black marker to draw eyes, a nose, and a mouth on the paper. You can get as detailed as you want to, but for basic features, make circles for eyes and an upside-down triangle for the nose. For the mouth, make a “J” attached to a backwards “J” coming out of the tip of the dog’s nose.

You can get as creative as you’d like with designing the dog’s face. Try making spots on the ears or giving it whiskers or a tongue.

Method 3 Making a Hand Puppet.

1. Fold a piece of paper lengthwise into 3 equal sections. Use a piece of construction paper or computer paper, or anything that comes close in size to 8.5 by 11 in (22 by 28 cm). This piece of paper will be the dog’s head, so use whatever color you’d like for that. White works well, but brown, black, or even an unconventional color, like red, would be fine.

Avoid using really thin paper for this craft. You’ll be sticking your hands into the folds, so it needs to be a little thicker to hold up.

2. Glue the last fold down with your glue stick. To help your craft stay together, apply some glue to the back of the last fold. Press it down so it adheres to the other side.

Glue sticks work great because they don’t take long to dry. If you don’t have a glue stick, try using double-sided tape.

3. Fold the paper in half so the “seam” is on the outside. Bring the short ends of the paper together, making a crease in the middle. Fold the paper so that the side you just glued is facing up.

If you accidentally fold it the wrong way the first time, that’s okay. Just unfold it and reverse the direction.

4. Fold the open edge to the bottom crease on each side. On each side of the paper, take the top edge and fold it back so it’s in line with the bottom, and make a crease. After you’ve done this on each side, hold up the paper and check that it makes an “M.”

The top and bottom sections are where you’ll place your fingers to make the puppet talk.

5. Cut out the dog’s ears and tongue and glue them into place. Use different colors of construction paper to cut out oblong shapes for the ears and tongue. Use your glue stick to attach them to the paper. Place the tongue inside the “mouth” and glue the ears on the top of the paper, one on each side of the head.

For example, if you used white paper for the dog’s head, use red paper for the tongue and black paper for the ears.

6.Draw on the eyes and nose to complete your puppet. Use a black marker to draw circles for eyes and an upside down triangle for the nose. You could even put 3 small dots on either side of the nose to make whiskers. Use your imagination and enjoy the decoration process!

To use the hand puppet, simply put your thumb in the bottom flap and your fingers in the top flap. When you open and close your hand, the dog’s mouth will open and close, too.

Tips

Take your time when creating a new craft! It can take a while to get the hang of things, but keep at it and you’ll be able to make various paper dogs in no time.

If you get a paper cut, rinse it off with warm water and mild soap, and put a bandaid around it to keep it clean.

Things You’ll Need.

Origami paper, Marker, Origami paper, Marker, Construction paper, marker, Scissors, Glue stick.

Desember 19, 2019

how to make 3d paper clouds

How to Make 3D Paper Clouds.

There are few things as relaxing and inspiring as clouds, but you can't always go outside to look at them. Make a hanging cloud to enjoy the sight of the sky anytime you’re stuck indoors.

1. Draw a basic cloud shape on thick cardboard. Use a pencil or marker to draw a simple cloud shape onto thick cardboard. This will serve as your template. Draw the cloud the same size you want the finished product to be.

If you need a little guidance for sketching the cloud, run a Google image search using the search term "cloud shape." Tons of options will come up for you to choose from!

2. Cut the cloud shape out of the cardboard. Use sharp scissors or an X-ACTO knife to cut along the lines you drew. Cut your cloud template out completely. Discard the excess cardboard.

3. Trace around the cloud template on thick white card stock. Pick a heavy stock so your 3D clouds are fairly durable. Trace around the cloud template on two sheets of the heavy white stock. Use a pencil and sketch lightly so you won't leave any dark marks on your white paper.

4. Cut out each white cloud shape carefully. Use scissors or an X-ACTO knife to cut out the cloud shapes. Cut just inside the drawn line so that your shapes won't have any visible pencil marks around the edges.

Lightly erase any pencil marks that accidentally make it onto the final shapes. Be careful not to bend the edges of the paper as you do so!

5. Add a thin stripe of hot glue down the center of one cloud. Heat up your hot glue gun. Place one cloud shape on the table in front of you. Then, draw a thin line of hot glue directly down the center of one of the cloud shapes.

6. Place a length of fishing line directly into the glue. Cut a piece of fishing line at the length you want to hang your 3D cloud. It can be as long or as short as you like. Anywhere from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) would work great. Place the line vertically, directly into the line of glue.

There should be no fishing line dangling under the cloud; it should only extend from the top. You will use this to hang the cloud.

Make sure you're using fishing line, which is transparent. That way, when you hang the cloud, it will look like it's floating in the air. Avoid fishing wire.

7. Fold another cloud shape right down the center. Set the glued cloud aside for a moment. Take another white cloud shape and fold it in half horizontally. The crease should appear in the same place as the glue stripe on the first cloud -- right down the middle.

8. Place the folded edge into the hot glue. Once folded, line up the creased edge of the second cloud with the stripe of glue on your first cloud. Press the edge into the glue, right on top of the fishing line. Hold it in place for about 30 to 60 seconds to ensure you get a solid bond.

You may need to add some fresh hot glue if yours has dried up. Simply add a very thin line of it in the same place.

9. Hang the cloud by the string. You can hang you 3D cloud anywhere you like! Use the fishing line to tie it to a light fixture, ceiling hook, the cord of a ceiling fan, or anywhere else you please.

10Make multiple clouds. You don't have to stop at one cloud! Repeat these steps to create multiple clouds. Cut the fishing line at different lengths so the clouds will hang at different levels. You can also place more than one cloud on a string for a stacked effect.

Remember, each 3D cloud is made from two white cloud shapes. If you want your mobile to have six 3D clouds, you'll need to cut out 12 cloud shapes from the white card stock.

11. Glue the strings around the inside edge of an embroidery hoop (optional). An embroidery hoop is circular, so it's perfect for a mobile. Let the clouds dangle at different lengths, but make sure all the strings extend from the top of the hoop at the same length. You'll use the strings extending from the top to hang your mobile.

Once the glue is dry, gather together the strings at the top. Create a knot to lock them altogether. Suspend the mobile by the knotted string wherever you like!

If you've never seen an embroidery hoop before, it's a small wooden ring used for needlepoint and other sewing projects. It can be found at any craft or sewing store. It will also have a tiny metal tightening device on it, but you won't need that for this purpose.


Things You'll Need.

Thick cardboard.

Thick white card stock.

Scissors or an X-ACTO knife.

Hot glue gun.

Hot glue sticks.

Fishing line.

Embroidery hoop.

Ceiling hooks.


Tips.

Make a few clouds if you like the outcome; a ceiling with several clouds can look really awesome.

Consider painting your paper lantern with glow-in-the-dark paint first. Your cloud will have a subtle glow.

Don't over-fluff your cloud. If you pull on the stuffing too much, it will lose its shape and fall apart.

If you do felting, you can also make a fluffy cloud by felting a ball and putting some of the excess wool around it.

Warnings.

Polyester stuffing is flammable. Do not put clouds near any heat source (lamps, ceiling lights, etc.).

November 30, 2019

how to making a decorative pinwheel

How to Making a Decorative Pinwheel.

Pinwheels are a beautiful decoration and delight children of all ages. Use them to decorate your yard for a party, or happily watch your children as they admire the bright colors whirling together. Once you know how to make a basic pinwheel, you can make a fancier one with more spokes. You can also make a disc-shaped pinwheel. It won't spin, but it'll look lovely as a wall decoration or ornament.

1. Cut a sheet of patterned scrapbooking paper into four strips. Get some 12-inch (30.48-centimeter) square scrapbooking paper. Use a metal ruler and a craft blade to cut the paper into four, 3-inch (7.62-centimeter) wide strips.

Some scrapbooking paper has a white strip along the bottom edge for the price and label. You should trim this off first.

These pinwheels are meant to be used as decorations on gifts, walls, or ornaments. They do not spin like regular pinwheels.

2. Fan-fold the strips widthwise. Take your first strip, and fold the narrow edge over by ½ to 1-inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters). Use that as a fold as a guide for the rest of the paper. Repeat this step for the remaining three strips.

3. Consider adding a design to one of the long edges. Fold your strip back up so that it looks like a closed fan. Cut an angle into one of the narrow edges. Work one strip at a time, otherwise, the paper will be too thick to cut neatly.

You don't have to do this step. This will simply give the pinwheels a more ornate edge.

4. Attach the pieces together to make a longer strip. Place a strip of tape against one of the narrow ends of your first strip. Place it against the narrow end of the next strip, then press them together. Keep connecting the strips until you have one long strip.

If both ends of the strips are folded in opposite directions, they will make a V or ^ shape. Trim off one of the ends until both are folded in the same direction.

5. Attach the first and last strips together to make a disk. Run some glue or a strip of double-sided tape along one of the narrow ends. Bring the other narrow end towards it, and press the two together.

6. Flatten the disk. If the disk won't lay flat, you will need to glue a support to the back. Flip the disk over so that the back is facing you. Choose a dowel, straw, or skewer that is the same height as the disk. Hot glue your chosen stick down the center of the disk, right between two ridges.

7. How glue an embellishment to the front of the disk. For a fancy look, you can cut a small circle out of coordinating paper, then glue it to the front to cover the hole. For a more rustic touch, you can use a large button instead.

8. Cut a circle cut from cardstock to the back of the pinwheel. This will make it easier to secure the pinwheel to walls, gifts, and other items. It would be best if you use a matching color, but you can use a different color as well.

Use a cup, jar, or lid to trace the circle.

9. Use double-sided tape to secure the pinwheel. Place a few strips of double-sides tape onto the back of the pinwheel, right over the cardstock circle. Secure the pinwheel to your desired gift of banner.

If you are securing the pinwheel to a wall, consider using double-sided, foam mounting tape instead.

Alternatively, you can string several pinwheels together to make a banner.

10. Finished.


Tips.

Make your pinwheel out of thin plastic, such as acetate, binder dividers, or stencil plastic.

Wrap a pretty ribbon in a spiral around the dowel before adding the pinwheel.

For an even fancier pinwheel, paint the stick with acrylic paint or spray paint beforehand. Let it dry before adding the pinwheel.

You can use a drinking straw instead of a dowel. It won't be as durable, but it will be easier to assemble.

Glue a bead, button, or charm to the pin on the front of your pinwheel for a fancy touch.

Make your own double-sided scrapbooking paper by gluing two sheets of paper back-to-back.

Decorate plain paper with rubber stamps.

You can make a simpler pinwheel by securing everything with a thumbtack to the side of a pencil eraser.


Things You'll Need.

Colorful paper.

Pencil.

Ruler.

Scissors.

Double-sided tape.

Hot glue gun and hot glue sticks.

Stapler.

Cardboard scraps or buttons.

November 30, 2019

how to decorating your flower pot with decoupage

How to Decorating Your Flower Pot with Decoupage.

Flowers are colorful and inviting, but sometimes the planters they're in can be a bit drab. If you want to spice up your home or garden, decorate your flower pots with paint, decoupage, or intricate mosaics. A chic planter can totally tie together your decor and show your personality!





1. Clean your flower pot. Decoupage glue sticks best to clean, dry surfaces. Get rid of any dirt or dust with water and soap, then dry your flower pot completely.

Remove any stickers or price tags.



2. Find decoupage material from books, magazines, or newspapers. Carefully cut out pictures of flowers, birds, or whatever fits your aesthetic. Cut out enough to cover the entire pot or cut out one small design for the front. It’s totally up to you how much decoupage you want!

It can be fun to use patterns or colors that contrast with the type of plant you’ll be using in the planter.

Try geometric shapes cut from solid paper for a modern style.

You can also use decorative fabric, paper napkins, or wallpaper.

There are countless options to decorate a flower pot. You could use patterned napkins to decoupage, fabric for a collage, or use oil-based paints. Try using stencils and decorating with flowers. For a terracotta pot, you can do a single, bold stripe of color on the bottom or use a marbling technique.



3. Brush Mod Podge or craft glue onto your pot. You can find glue meant for decoupage at any craft store, and usually it’s pretty cheap. Use a foam brush to saturate the designated area as evenly as possible.

Wear gloves to keep glue off your skin.

A thin layer will do.



4. Apply your decoupage cutout. While the glue is still wet, carefully place the piece of decoupage onto the flower pot. Go slow to make sure the placement is exactly how you want it.

If you make a mistake, you might be able to peel it off and try again, but try to get it right the first time.

Smooth out any bubbles with your hands or a squeegee tool.



5. Add another layer of Mod Podge. Using a foam brush, apply a generous layer over your decoupage piece to keep it in place. This will make sure it’s protected from wetness when you water your plant.

Allow your decoupage to dry completely before touching or moving the flower pot.

Paint it on slowly evenly to minimize brush lines.

Don’t worry, Mod Podge will dry clear.

Mod Podge might have a slightly sticky texture even when dry.



6. Apply a sealer. Just like with paint, you’ll need to protect your decoupage from scratches and weathering. Put at least two coats of clear, water based acrylic varnish over your lovely work.



Tips.

If you’re using a terracotta planter, you may want to coat the inside with a sealer to keep moisture from seeping through and damaging your decorations.

If you don’t like how your paint job turned out, just paint over it!

Make sure everything is dry before you fill your flowerpot with dirt and a plant.



Warnings.

Wear gloves and safety glasses when shattering tiling or glass.

Protect your floor or tabletop from paint and glue with newspapers.





Things You'll Need.

Decorating Your Flower Pot with Decoupage.

Clean flower pot.

Scissors.

Gloves.

Decoupage paper.

Mod Podge or other decoupage glue.

Clear spray acrylic varnish, spray or liquid.

November 22, 2019

how to organize craft supplies

How to Organize Craft Supplies.

If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.







Steps.



1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.

If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.

Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.



2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.

Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.

Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.

Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.



3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.

Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.

Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,



4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.

Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.

If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.

Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.



5. Keep on sorting.

Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.

Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.



6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.

Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.

For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.



7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.



8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.



9. Finished.





Tips.

Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.

Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.

Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.

Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.

Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.

Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.

Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.

Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.

Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.



Things You'll Need.

Craft supplies.

Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.

Paper to label the containers.

November 21, 2019

how to easy build a ballista

How to Build a Ballista.

If you like medieval weaponry capable of flinging arrows through the air, try building your own ballista. A ballista consists of a frame, a launch ramp with a slide, and a tensioned string. You can build all of these components with popsicle sticks, thread, and other basic supplies. Add a launch pin to create a small ballista that enables you fire bolts with a pull of a string.







Part 1 Assembling the Frame.



Drill holes through a pair of 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. Measure 1 in (2.5 cm) from the ends and mark the spots with a pencil. Before working on the sticks, lay down a piece of cardboard to protect your work surface from damage. Then, use a drill bit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter to create the holes.

The simplest way to create a ballista is with inexpensive popsicle sticks, available online, at craft supply store, and other areas.

If you wish to make a larger ballista, trying using larger pieces of wood or foam in place of the popsicle sticks.



Poke a second, smaller hole next to each of the bigger ones. Measure about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) along the stick’s length from one of the existing holes. Use a steel probe 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in diameter or a similar sharp tool to poke all the way through the wood. Position the hole so it’s slightly lower, closer to the edge of the stick, than the larger hole. Create a matching hole on the opposite end of the first stick and create corresponding holes on the second stick.

Each popsicle stick has 4 holes when you’re finished, a pair of holes on either end. The bigger holes are used to secure the ballista frame together, while the smaller holes are for the launcher.

To test the smaller holes, try squeezing a wood cocktail skewer through them. Get skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Widen the holes as needed to fit the skewers.



Cut a pair of wood blocks to 1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm). The easiest way to do this is to purchase wood crafting blocks. If you can’t find the exact size you need, cut the blocks to size with a crafting knife or another tool. Get blocks that are about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. Scrape away the excess wood until both blocks are the same size.

Shop online or visit a craft store to see what kind of wood blocks are available. You can use scrap wood if you wish, but crafting blocks are much smoother and easier to work with.

Be careful when using a crafting knife. The blocks are small, so it’s easy to slip while handling the blade. Work slowly to avoid potential accidents.

Image titled Build a Ballista Step 4

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Glue the blocks to the ends of the popsicle sticks. Heat up a hot glue gun loaded with a fresh stick of white glue. Spread a layer of glue over the ends of the 1 of the sticks, then lay the blocks on top of that. Align the longer ends of each block with the edges of the popsicle stick. Spread another layer of glue on top of the wood blocks to secure the second popsicle stick.

Make sure you align the holes in the popsicle sticks before gluing them in place. The holes need to be positioned evenly over one another in order for the ballista launch its arrows later.







Part 2 Building and Attaching the Launch Ramp.



Cut about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) off the end of another popsicle stick. Trim this new stick to size by measuring and slicing it apart with your craft knife. Another safe way to do this is by snapping the end off with scissors or wire cutters. Trim any stray wood fibers off the cut end so it looks smooth and even.

Cutting popsicle sticks can be tricky since they are pretty fragile. Work slowly, gradually deepening the cut you make. Bend the popsicle stick back and forth along the groove you cut to prevent it from splintering.

If you have experience with wood cutting, try using a fine saw blade like a band saw. Always wear earmuffs, eye goggles, and a dust mask while operating a saw.



Trim a pair of cocktail skewers to 5 1⁄2 in (14 cm) in length. Get some wood skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Measure and mark the skewers as needed with a ruler and pencil. Then, cut the skewers evenly on both ends to trim off the sharp points. The skewers need to be the same length as the popsicle stick you cut, so use it for comparison.

Wood skewers are available online in addition to some craft stores, general stores, and restaurant supply stores.

Cut the skewers by using a craft knife or by snapping the ends off with wire cutters.



Glue the skewers to the top of the popsicle stick. Place the skewers on the long edges of the popsicle stick you cut. Lay down a bead of glue from a hot glue gun to secure the skewers in place. Trim the ends of the skewers as needed to smooth them out and make them even with the ends of the stick.

Now you have a basic launch ramp. The skewers form a groove for you to load the ballista’s ammunition.



Secure the ramp to the center of the frame you built. Get your popsicle stick frame with the holes drilled in it. Turn the ramp over and spread some hot glue on the end of it. Then, secure it over the bottom popsicle stick in the frame. Put it as close to the center of the frame as possible, aligning the end of the ramp with the back edge of the frame.

Hot glue dries relatively quickly, so you don’t need to worry too much about the frame and ramp components coming apart. Set the pieces aside as needed for 10 to 20 minutes to give the glue a chance to solidify. It takes about 24 hours to fully cure.







Part 3 Creating the Launcher Mechanism.



Break a 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle stick into halves. Divide the stick evenly into halves about 2 1⁄4 in (5.7 cm) long. These sticks are smaller than the frame pieces and are part of the ballista’s launching system. Use a craft knife or wire cutters to split the stick across its width and then smooth out the cut end.

Purchase a separate bag of smaller popsicle sticks online or at a craft store. Alternatively, cut smaller pieces of wood boards or foam if you’re making the ballista with those materials.



Poke a hole 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each stick. Use a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-thick steel probe or a similar tool sold at craft stores. Make a single hole near the rounded end, leaving the cut end alone. Pierce all the way through the wood.



Pull pieces of string through the larger holes in the frame. Getting the string through the holes is tricky, so have a cocktail skewer nearby to push it through. Slide both ends of a string 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter through the top hole, then through the respective hole in the bottom frame piece. Leave the string long enough to form small loops above and below the ballista frame.

Try using twine from a craft store for a strong material that isn’t likely to break when you’re having fun launching makeshift arrows.



Tie small skewers to the frame using the string loops. Cut a couple of wood skewers down to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length. Start with the top loop by placing a skewer inside of it and pulling the string tight. Then, tie the loose ends of the string into a knot with another skewer underneath it.

Lay the skewers flat against the frame pieces. Orient them so they’re perpendicular to the frame pieces. Then, tie the knots as tight as you can to hold the skewers in place.



Place the small popsicle sticks between the strings and tighten them. The popsicle sticks you cut earlier fit between the frame pieces. Slide about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of the cut ends of the sticks between the ropes. Then, twist the bottom skewers clockwise to tighten the string as much as possible.

When the small sticks are positioned correctly, you can move them back and forth without them sliding out of place. This is necessary for moving the ballista’s launcher to let arrows fly a long way.



Slide another skewer into each of the inner holes on the frame. Cut 2 more skewers to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length to fit those holes. Make them look nice and even like the other skewers before fitting them through the frame. Make sure the skewers go all the way through the respective holes on the top and bottom frame pieces.

Protect the strings by tying the ends to the bottoms of these skewers, if possible. If you do this, the skewers maintain the string’s tension, leading to much more impressive launches!



Tie a length of string between the launcher’s stick arms. Set the ballista so the back end is in front of you. Thread the 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string into the holes in the small popsicle sticks hanging from the ballista frame. Knot both ends of the string to secure it, then trim off the excess length.

The exact length of string you need to form the launcher depends on the material you used. Try threading the string through both holes before cutting it from the spool. Always cut it longer than you need so you can knot it tightly.







Part 4 Making the Slide and Supports.



Glue a block underneath the back end of the launch ramp. Get another 1.5 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood block. The block needs to be approximately the same width as the ramp in order to keep the ballista stable while you’re firing it. Set the ramp in the glue, aligning its back edge with the back end of the block.

Installing the block makes the ballista ramp slanted so it launches arrows higher into the air.



Cut grooves in a small block to create the ballista’s slider. Cut the grooves into a small piece of wood about 1.5 × 1 × 1⁄2 in (3.8 × 2.5 × 1.3 cm) in size. The launcher needs separate grooves in the front and back, both as thick as the string you used when tying the launcher arms together. Make the 2 grooves about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from either end. Use a crafting knife to scrape away the wood, making the grooves circular and about half as deep as the block.

Try making the slider out of a wood peg bought online or a craft store. If you use scrap wood, make sure it is solid and smooth so you can slide it along the ramp.



Create a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood cap to fit on top of the slider. Simply cut a smaller popsicle stick to the exact length and width as the slider. Cut the cap into a rectangle with no rounded edges. When you’re ready to install it, put the launcher string into the slider’s front groove. Spread some hot glue, then press the cap onto the top of the slider.

Test the cap out by putting it on the slider before you add the glue. Check that it’s big enough to cover the slider and pin the string in place.



Drill 45-degree angle holes in a block of wood. This block needs to be about 2 × 1 1⁄2 × 1⁄2 in (5.1 × 3.8 × 1.3 cm) longer than the one on the back end of the ballista. Position the holes about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the smaller sides of the block. Use a drill bit approximately 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide to drill diagonally towards the center of the block.

Drill all the way through the other side of the block. Keep the holes as even as possible to build a stable base for the ballista frame.



Fit wood dowels into the holes on the block. Use a pair of 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-thick dowels cut to about 4 in (10 cm) long. Slice them using a craft knife, wire cutters, or a saw if you have one. Then, put some hot glue on the ends of the dowels and push them as far into the holes as possible.

Look online or at a local craft supply store for the perfect dowels for your project.



Glue the block to the front side of the frame to stand the ballista up. Flip the block over and spread a thick bead of glue across its length. Lift up the front end of the ballista to stick the block to the bottom of the frame. After pressing the pieces firmly together, consider letting the glue dry for about 10 minutes.

If the block is wider than the frame, you could try whittling it down with a carving knife or craft knife. As long as your base is stable, doing this isn’t necessary, but it can make the ballista look a little neater.







Part 5 Completing the Firing Mechanism.



Glue long spacer pieces to the sides of the back block. Cut the spacer pieces so they are about 4 in × 1.5 in (10.2 cm × 3.8 cm) in size. Spread more hot glue, then press them against the block supporting the back end of the ramp. These parts are there to support the rest of the parts you need to add, so they don’t need to be pretty and can be longer than the block itself.

Make sure the spacer pieces stick out from underneath the ramp a little bit. The pieces that attach to them need to extend over the ramp or else you won’t be able to fire the ballista.



Cut 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) off the ends of a large popsicle stick. Measure and mark the length you need to cut on one of the 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. You need 2 of these pieces, so cut off both ends of the stick. Leave the rounded ends of the stick intact.

Cut the stick carefully with a craft knife, wire cutters, or saw. Work slowly to avoid splintering the wood and smooth out the edges as needed.



Make a hole about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each piece. Create the holes by poking a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe or a similar sharp tool through the wood. Keep the holes along the center part of the wood. Make them as even as possible to ensure the ballista parts line up appropriately when you install them.



Glue the popsicle ends to the side pieces on the block. The sticks need to be near the tail end of the block. Also, position the sticks about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) up from the bottom edge of the block. Spread glue over the wood and press them onto the block to hold them in place.

Make sure the ends of the sticks extend over the ramp. The holes need to be about level with the top edge of the slider in order to string the launch rope through it.



Bend a metal rod to fit through the holes in the wood. Get a metal rod about 4 in (10 cm) long and about 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in width to fit through the holes. Pull the launcher piece back and thread the rod through its second groove and the holes in the sticks. Then, use pliers to bend one end of the rod back over itself. The rod forms a launch pin that stays in place until you're ready to use it.

Test the pin by attempting to move it. If it feels loose, bend the end back on itself more to keep the pin in place. Leave the other end of the pin alone so it can slide out of the hole.



Tie a string to the end of the launch pin. Cut some 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string to complete the launching mechanism. Try trimming it to about 3 to 4 in (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in length. Knot the string a few times to the bent end of the launch pin to quickly pull it out when you wish to fire the ballista.

Keep the string at a comfortable length. If it is too long or short, you may have a hard time pulling out the pin in a quick, fluid motion.



Cut cocktail skewers to about 5 in (13 cm) for ammunition. Trim the pointed ends off of as many skewers as you wish to use. When you’re ready to use the ballista, put a single arrow on the chute after pulling the slide back. Yank the string to pull the metal pin out, causing the slide to spring forward, sending the arrow through the air.

Always cut the points off of the skewers to avoid accidents. Also, never shoot the arrows at others. They can hurt, especially from bigger launchers.







Tips.

Ballista arrows are reusable. Collect the arrows after you fire them to ensure you have a steady supply of ammunition.

Small ballista designs can be blown up to create big rigs capable of throwing arrows long distances. Many big ballistas use wood planks and thick rope like the kind available at hardware stores.



Warnings.

Firing a ballista can be dangerous. To be safe, clear an area outdoors and fire it when no one else is around.

If you choose to use a saw to cut components, follow proper safety procedures to avoid injuries. Always wear earmuffs, goggles, and a dust mask.



Things You’ll Need.

Ruler, Craft knife, Wire cutters or scissors.

6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks, 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle sticks.

1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood blocks, 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-diameter wood skewers, 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-diameter wood dowels.

1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit, Drill.

1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe, Hot glue stick, Hot glue gun.

7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string, 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-diameter metal rod.

November 20, 2019

how to melt glue sticks

How to Melt Glue Sticks.

Glue sticks can be melted down for a number of applications. Whether used in crafts, manufacturing, packaging, fashion, or in any other creative function, glue sticks are a cheap and easy to come by product. All-purpose or school glue sticks and hot glue gun sticks can both be melted in the microwave, and hot glue gun sticks can, of course, be melted in a glue gun. If handled carefully and done properly, the processes are extremely quick and can help you adhere all kinds of surfaces to one another.







Microwaving Glue Sticks







Remove the glue sticks from their original packaging. All-purpose or school glue sticks can be unscrewed and pulled or broken off from their plastic casings. Hot glue gun sticks simply need to be removed from any packaging or wrappers.

Make sure there are no plastics or other wrappings in or on the glue you want to melt. Most wrappings and plastics are not intended to be melted and can be unsafe to do so.

If your glue stick has a plastic piece through the center, carefully cut the glue away from the plastic using a knife.



Put the stick(s) into a microwave-safe dish. Since the glue will be very messy and hard to clean, use a single-use paper bowl. If you are dedicating the dish to the craft of melting glue sticks, a ceramic or glass mug or bowl will also work.

Be sure the glue sticks are fully inside of the dish. If they overhang the mug or bowl, they will melt outside of the dish.

Start with smaller quantities to test how long your particular glue takes to melt.



Microwave the glue on full power in 20-second intervals. Depending on your microwave and amount of glue, you should at least be able to partially melt the sticks. If there are still solids, microwave the glue for an additional 20 seconds after stirring it with a craft stick or plastic spoon.

Do not leave the microwave unattended. If something goes wrong, you should be there to stop the microwave.

Do not heat the sticks for extended periods of time. It may look like nothing is wrong while it heats, but overheating the glue can create fumes that are unsafe.



Remove the glue from the microwave carefully. You should use it immediately, but be careful as the glue will be quite hot. Depending on how long it was heated, the dish can be hot as well.

Use the glue fresh out of the microwave so it will be easy to apply.

If the glue re-hardens, simply microwave it for another 20 seconds.







Melting Glue Sticks with a Glue Gun





Obtain a glue gun at least as big as the glue sticks. Only use hot glue sticks intended for glue guns—not all-purpose or school glue sticks. If the sticks won’t fit into the glue gun, you cannot melt them. If the sticks are too small, you will just have to use your hand to feed them through.

Make sure your glue sticks are meant for a glue gun. You should not use other types of glue sticks because they can damage your glue gun.



Plug in the glue gun over cardboard or newspaper. As the tip of the gun heats, the gun may start to drip as it melts. By putting a piece of cardboard or newspaper underneath, you can protect your working surface.

Always follow the instructions specific to your glue gun regarding electricity and timing.

Do not leave a glue gun unattended. They can tip over or otherwise cause severe burns if you are not careful.



Squeeze the trigger of the glue gun to feed the sticks. If the sticks match the size of the glue gun, the trigger will allow the stick to press and feed through the heated tip. The glue will then melt and drip out wherever you point the gun.

Do not touch the metal tip of the gun or the melting glue. They will both be extremely hot.

If the glue is not feeding through, it may either be too large of a stick or may still be heating up.

If your glue stick is smaller than the glue gun, you will have to push from the back end of the stick to feed it through.

Use gloves to protect your hands from the heated materials.



Insert another stick once the first no longer feeds through. If the gun or your fingers can no longer safely feed the first stick through the rear of the glue gun, use another glue stick to press it through. It will then be caught by the plastic feeding mechanism and continue melting.





Warnings.

Do not touch melted glue. It will be extremely hot and adhere to your skin, making the burn worse.

Do not inhale melted glue fumes. Some glues are non-toxic, but not all of them are. Regardless, the fumes can be dangerous, and you may need to wear a respirator while working.

November 13, 2019

how to cut popsicle sticks

How to Cut Popsicle Sticks.

If you’re having some fun by engaging in some arts and crafts, you may need to cut some popsicle sticks. Cutting popsicle sticks can be tough, since the flimsy wood has a tendency to slide out of regular scissors and splinter when you cut it. To cut popsicle sticks while minimizing the chance of splinters, use serrated scissors if you don’t mind a rough edge. For a smoother edge, use wire cutters or snips depending on what is available to you.





Splitting with Serrated Scissors.



Grab a pair of heavy-duty kitchen or craft scissors. Standard scissors with a flat blade won’t easily cut through a popsicle stick. However, you can use any pair of serrated scissors that are designed for the kitchen. Large pairs of craft scissors will work as well.

This method will leave a rough edge behind wherever you cut.



Open your scissors and hold the popsicle stick against the blades. Put your thumb and index finger in the finger holes. Hold the popsicle stick that you want to cut in your nondominant hand. With your blades opened all the way, place the section that you want to cut as close to your handle as possible so that it sits perpendicular at the junction where the 2 blades meet.

You’ll need special scissors if you’re left-handed.

Warning: Keep your fingers at a safe distance away from the blades.





Close the finger holes quickly and firmly to cut the stick. With your other fingers at a safe distance, bring your thumb and index finger together to start closing the blades. Close your scissor blades all the way through the popsicle stick until the two blades snap together. The harder you close your scissors, the less likely you are to fray the edge.



Inspect your edge and remove any splinters. You don’t want random pieces of wood falling off of your popsicle stick. After you’ve cut it, hold it up to your eye and look for splinters. If there are any, carefully pinch them between your thumb and index finger and pull them off.

You can use sandpaper to smooth out rough edges by gently rubbing it on the edge where you cut your popsicle stick. Any grit sandpaper will work.







Using a Wire Cutter.



Find a pair of wire cutters with a flat blade bigger than 1 inch (2.5 cm). You are only going to use the wire cutters to brace the popsicle stick in place when you snap it, so the blades don’t have to be sharp. Wire cutters create a lot of even pressure between their blades when you close the handles. This means that they are unlikely to cause a splinter or uneven edge where you snap the popsicle stick.

You can use a pencil to draw a guide line where you want to cut the popsicle stick. This will help you keep your wire cutters positioned correctly when you twist your wrist to make your cut.



Hold your wire cutters loosely while you line them up on the stick. Wrap your dominant thumb over the top handle of the wire cutters and put your other fingers around the bottom handle. Hold your hands steady and put the popsicle stick in the wire cutter’s jaws. Slide your popsicle stick in the tool’s jaws to find the spot that you want to cut it.



Tighten your grip and hold the popsicle stick in place. You don’t need to squeeze very hard to get the blades to tighten around your popsicle stick. Don’t push down hard, or you’ll risk snapping the stick.

Even though they tend to have smaller blades than scissors or snips, wire cutters pack a punch when you squeeze the handles. Keep your free hand clear of the blades while you position your popsicle stick.



Wiggle your wire cutters back and forth while keeping them closed. With your free hand, hold the longest section of your popsicle stick in place by wrapping your fingers around it and staying still. Then, move your wire cutters back and forth in order to loosen the wood at the junction where you’re holding them.

Keep your grip at the same level of pressure while you move your wire cutters.



Snap the wood off by twisting the wire cutters. Once you hear a few creaks from the wood loosening, you can snap the stick by rotating the wire cutters with your wrist. Turn your wrist sharply to the left and right without moving your arm. The popsicle stick will snap at the junction where you held it with the wire cutters.

Tip: Don’t pull away or move your arm while you do this or you’ll risk leaving a jagged edge.





Cutting with Snips.



Choose your snips based on how you want to cut. Snips are color coded based on the direction that they’re designed to cut. Green snips make cuts to the right, red snips make cuts to the left, and yellow snips cut straight lines. Choose your snips based on whether you’re trying to cut at an angle or make a straight cut.

The advantage of using snips is that they’re going to cut quickly. They may make your popsicle stick slide as you cut it though, so keep a firm grip while cutting.



Open your grip and position your cut. Hold the popsicle stick in your nondominant hand and loosen your grip on the snips to open the blades. Position your popsicle stick between the blades wherever you want to cut it and hold it steady.

Keep your free hand clear from the blades as you position your stick.



Squeeze the handles to close the blades and make your cut. You don’t need to squeeze hard; snips are designed to cut sheet metal and generate a lot of cutting power automatically. As you squeeze, keep the popsicle stick still so that your cut stays consistent. Tighten your grip until you hear a snap and then release the handles.

Tip: Remove any splinters by pinching them between your thumb and forefinger and pulling them off.





Tips.

You can use sandpaper to smooth out jagged edges after you cut them. All you have to do is hold a small piece of sandpaper in your dominant hand and lightly drag it back and forth across the edge where you cut your stick.

Popsicle sticks tend to splinter no matter how you cut them, but they’re also are relatively cheap. Buy a few extra bundles so that you always have some extra sticks laying around in the event that you split a few them.

Warnings.

Never use snips, scissors, or wire cutters without the supervision of an adult. If you need help, your parent or teacher will be able to cut your popsicle sticks for you.

Always keep your free hand away from the area that you’re going to cut.

Work at a stable table with plenty of room.

November 10, 2019