how to make an art kit

How to Make an Art Kit.

As you begin studying art or creating art of your own, you may find it helpful to start with a selection of basic tools and equipment. Your art kit is your own, so take the ones described here as a guide to build upon or modify for your own style.







Method 1. Making an Adult Kit



1. Decide what you will put everything in. Choose something easy to carry around with you, especially if you want to do art on location or you are taking classes. You could use anything from a shoe box to an old briefcase.

Choose an ample container. You are likely to acquire more art supplies as you continue.

Plan to protect the supplies that are sensitive. A hard sided pencil case or simply a tin or shoe box can keep pencils and other delicate items from breaking.

Give some thought to how you will carry paints, brushes, and whatever you will use to clean them, especially if you're painting away from home.



2. Find or buy some basic equipment. Here's a list of what you might need with a rough estimated price. You will not need all of these items; just select what you would like to use and then build up your kit as you go along. You can always add to it later.

Pencil Set.

Pens.

Sketchbook.

Oil Pastels.

Dry Pastels.

Acrylic paint set.

Paint Brushes.

Water Soluble Pencils.

Colouring Pencils.

Glue.

Scalpel.

Metal Ruler.

Pencil sharpener. A small, handheld one will travel well.

Clay.







Method 2. Making a Child's Kit



1. A child's kit is extremely easy to make, since children are naturally creative and they will use just about anything. Here's a child's list to get started.

Colouring Book.

Safety Scissors.

Colouring Pencils.

Pipe cleaners and other items like that.

Non-toxic glue.

Sketchbook.

Play-doh.

Markers.



2. Include a cheap plastic tablecloth or oilcloth in a child's kit and explain to Mom and Dad that it's to go underneath anything messy: paint, clay, glue, etc. Plastic tablecloths easily cover the whole table and they come large enough for several friends or even the whole scout troop to gather around.



3. With this child's kit it's really up to you. Use anything age-appropriate that they can't hurt themselves with.



Tips.

If you want to skip all the hassle of searching through shops you can find lots of different starter kits for children and adults ranging from £5 to £100.

Leave yourself plenty of room to expand. Art supplies have a way of growing.

If your kit is for a child make sure you buy non-toxic products and safety scissors.

Art kits make great gifts. Try to learn a bit about the artist who will receive your kit so that you do inspire and don't duplicate. For gifts, interesting materials (e.g. fabric, paper, wood) might be a good addition, especially if your artist tends toward mixed media or crafts.

Remember that art is more than drawing and painting. If you find yourself drawn toward other activities or media, make the most of it. There's no reason why an extraordinary work of art can't be made of fabric, concrete, plastic, metal, natural materials, found materials, or anything else that will fit the bill. If you're already skilled at welding, sewing, woodworking or the like, you may already have many of the supplies you need.

Did you give an art kit last year? If it was well received, expand on it this year. New materials and supplies can afford an artist the opportunity to expand and can sometimes supply new inspiration.

Colouring is not an especially artistic endeavour. If the child who will receive this art kit happens to enjoy it, go ahead. If not, encourage creativity and innovation by giving a blank sketch book, or look for the "Anti Coloring Book" series.

Start simple, especially if you are making this kit for yourself. If you want to get into drawing, start with just an ordinary pencil and paper, then as you find yourself improving, invest in some color pencils and a sketch book or a simple prepared kit, obtaining supplies as you need them. Remember: gear doesn't make the artist; practice does. This approach will help you to find your artistic style while saving a bit of money and avoiding the clutter of materials you don't use.

Image titled Wild Rose Artists' Supplies and Custom Framing 7478Experiment. If a particular medium, tool, or other item interests you, give it a try. Don't give up on your first attempt, either. Give yourself a chance to get familiar with a new addition before deciding whether to keep at it.



Warnings.

Always supervise young children when they use anything like glue or scissors.



Things You'll Need.

Art supplies.

Box or bag.

Money.

November 21, 2019

how to melt glue sticks

How to Melt Glue Sticks.

Glue sticks can be melted down for a number of applications. Whether used in crafts, manufacturing, packaging, fashion, or in any other creative function, glue sticks are a cheap and easy to come by product. All-purpose or school glue sticks and hot glue gun sticks can both be melted in the microwave, and hot glue gun sticks can, of course, be melted in a glue gun. If handled carefully and done properly, the processes are extremely quick and can help you adhere all kinds of surfaces to one another.







Microwaving Glue Sticks







Remove the glue sticks from their original packaging. All-purpose or school glue sticks can be unscrewed and pulled or broken off from their plastic casings. Hot glue gun sticks simply need to be removed from any packaging or wrappers.

Make sure there are no plastics or other wrappings in or on the glue you want to melt. Most wrappings and plastics are not intended to be melted and can be unsafe to do so.

If your glue stick has a plastic piece through the center, carefully cut the glue away from the plastic using a knife.



Put the stick(s) into a microwave-safe dish. Since the glue will be very messy and hard to clean, use a single-use paper bowl. If you are dedicating the dish to the craft of melting glue sticks, a ceramic or glass mug or bowl will also work.

Be sure the glue sticks are fully inside of the dish. If they overhang the mug or bowl, they will melt outside of the dish.

Start with smaller quantities to test how long your particular glue takes to melt.



Microwave the glue on full power in 20-second intervals. Depending on your microwave and amount of glue, you should at least be able to partially melt the sticks. If there are still solids, microwave the glue for an additional 20 seconds after stirring it with a craft stick or plastic spoon.

Do not leave the microwave unattended. If something goes wrong, you should be there to stop the microwave.

Do not heat the sticks for extended periods of time. It may look like nothing is wrong while it heats, but overheating the glue can create fumes that are unsafe.



Remove the glue from the microwave carefully. You should use it immediately, but be careful as the glue will be quite hot. Depending on how long it was heated, the dish can be hot as well.

Use the glue fresh out of the microwave so it will be easy to apply.

If the glue re-hardens, simply microwave it for another 20 seconds.







Melting Glue Sticks with a Glue Gun





Obtain a glue gun at least as big as the glue sticks. Only use hot glue sticks intended for glue guns—not all-purpose or school glue sticks. If the sticks won’t fit into the glue gun, you cannot melt them. If the sticks are too small, you will just have to use your hand to feed them through.

Make sure your glue sticks are meant for a glue gun. You should not use other types of glue sticks because they can damage your glue gun.



Plug in the glue gun over cardboard or newspaper. As the tip of the gun heats, the gun may start to drip as it melts. By putting a piece of cardboard or newspaper underneath, you can protect your working surface.

Always follow the instructions specific to your glue gun regarding electricity and timing.

Do not leave a glue gun unattended. They can tip over or otherwise cause severe burns if you are not careful.



Squeeze the trigger of the glue gun to feed the sticks. If the sticks match the size of the glue gun, the trigger will allow the stick to press and feed through the heated tip. The glue will then melt and drip out wherever you point the gun.

Do not touch the metal tip of the gun or the melting glue. They will both be extremely hot.

If the glue is not feeding through, it may either be too large of a stick or may still be heating up.

If your glue stick is smaller than the glue gun, you will have to push from the back end of the stick to feed it through.

Use gloves to protect your hands from the heated materials.



Insert another stick once the first no longer feeds through. If the gun or your fingers can no longer safely feed the first stick through the rear of the glue gun, use another glue stick to press it through. It will then be caught by the plastic feeding mechanism and continue melting.





Warnings.

Do not touch melted glue. It will be extremely hot and adhere to your skin, making the burn worse.

Do not inhale melted glue fumes. Some glues are non-toxic, but not all of them are. Regardless, the fumes can be dangerous, and you may need to wear a respirator while working.

November 13, 2019

how to cut popsicle sticks

How to Cut Popsicle Sticks.

If you’re having some fun by engaging in some arts and crafts, you may need to cut some popsicle sticks. Cutting popsicle sticks can be tough, since the flimsy wood has a tendency to slide out of regular scissors and splinter when you cut it. To cut popsicle sticks while minimizing the chance of splinters, use serrated scissors if you don’t mind a rough edge. For a smoother edge, use wire cutters or snips depending on what is available to you.





Splitting with Serrated Scissors.



Grab a pair of heavy-duty kitchen or craft scissors. Standard scissors with a flat blade won’t easily cut through a popsicle stick. However, you can use any pair of serrated scissors that are designed for the kitchen. Large pairs of craft scissors will work as well.

This method will leave a rough edge behind wherever you cut.



Open your scissors and hold the popsicle stick against the blades. Put your thumb and index finger in the finger holes. Hold the popsicle stick that you want to cut in your nondominant hand. With your blades opened all the way, place the section that you want to cut as close to your handle as possible so that it sits perpendicular at the junction where the 2 blades meet.

You’ll need special scissors if you’re left-handed.

Warning: Keep your fingers at a safe distance away from the blades.





Close the finger holes quickly and firmly to cut the stick. With your other fingers at a safe distance, bring your thumb and index finger together to start closing the blades. Close your scissor blades all the way through the popsicle stick until the two blades snap together. The harder you close your scissors, the less likely you are to fray the edge.



Inspect your edge and remove any splinters. You don’t want random pieces of wood falling off of your popsicle stick. After you’ve cut it, hold it up to your eye and look for splinters. If there are any, carefully pinch them between your thumb and index finger and pull them off.

You can use sandpaper to smooth out rough edges by gently rubbing it on the edge where you cut your popsicle stick. Any grit sandpaper will work.







Using a Wire Cutter.



Find a pair of wire cutters with a flat blade bigger than 1 inch (2.5 cm). You are only going to use the wire cutters to brace the popsicle stick in place when you snap it, so the blades don’t have to be sharp. Wire cutters create a lot of even pressure between their blades when you close the handles. This means that they are unlikely to cause a splinter or uneven edge where you snap the popsicle stick.

You can use a pencil to draw a guide line where you want to cut the popsicle stick. This will help you keep your wire cutters positioned correctly when you twist your wrist to make your cut.



Hold your wire cutters loosely while you line them up on the stick. Wrap your dominant thumb over the top handle of the wire cutters and put your other fingers around the bottom handle. Hold your hands steady and put the popsicle stick in the wire cutter’s jaws. Slide your popsicle stick in the tool’s jaws to find the spot that you want to cut it.



Tighten your grip and hold the popsicle stick in place. You don’t need to squeeze very hard to get the blades to tighten around your popsicle stick. Don’t push down hard, or you’ll risk snapping the stick.

Even though they tend to have smaller blades than scissors or snips, wire cutters pack a punch when you squeeze the handles. Keep your free hand clear of the blades while you position your popsicle stick.



Wiggle your wire cutters back and forth while keeping them closed. With your free hand, hold the longest section of your popsicle stick in place by wrapping your fingers around it and staying still. Then, move your wire cutters back and forth in order to loosen the wood at the junction where you’re holding them.

Keep your grip at the same level of pressure while you move your wire cutters.



Snap the wood off by twisting the wire cutters. Once you hear a few creaks from the wood loosening, you can snap the stick by rotating the wire cutters with your wrist. Turn your wrist sharply to the left and right without moving your arm. The popsicle stick will snap at the junction where you held it with the wire cutters.

Tip: Don’t pull away or move your arm while you do this or you’ll risk leaving a jagged edge.





Cutting with Snips.



Choose your snips based on how you want to cut. Snips are color coded based on the direction that they’re designed to cut. Green snips make cuts to the right, red snips make cuts to the left, and yellow snips cut straight lines. Choose your snips based on whether you’re trying to cut at an angle or make a straight cut.

The advantage of using snips is that they’re going to cut quickly. They may make your popsicle stick slide as you cut it though, so keep a firm grip while cutting.



Open your grip and position your cut. Hold the popsicle stick in your nondominant hand and loosen your grip on the snips to open the blades. Position your popsicle stick between the blades wherever you want to cut it and hold it steady.

Keep your free hand clear from the blades as you position your stick.



Squeeze the handles to close the blades and make your cut. You don’t need to squeeze hard; snips are designed to cut sheet metal and generate a lot of cutting power automatically. As you squeeze, keep the popsicle stick still so that your cut stays consistent. Tighten your grip until you hear a snap and then release the handles.

Tip: Remove any splinters by pinching them between your thumb and forefinger and pulling them off.





Tips.

You can use sandpaper to smooth out jagged edges after you cut them. All you have to do is hold a small piece of sandpaper in your dominant hand and lightly drag it back and forth across the edge where you cut your stick.

Popsicle sticks tend to splinter no matter how you cut them, but they’re also are relatively cheap. Buy a few extra bundles so that you always have some extra sticks laying around in the event that you split a few them.

Warnings.

Never use snips, scissors, or wire cutters without the supervision of an adult. If you need help, your parent or teacher will be able to cut your popsicle sticks for you.

Always keep your free hand away from the area that you’re going to cut.

Work at a stable table with plenty of room.

November 10, 2019

how to paint wood crafts

How to Paint Wood Crafts.

Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.





Prepping the Wood.



Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.

Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.



Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.

It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.



Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.

Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.

Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4



Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.







Painting and Sealing the Wood.



Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.

You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.



Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.

Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.

Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.



Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.

Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.



Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.

Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.

If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.



Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.



Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.

If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.

If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.







Trying Other Techniques.



Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.



Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.

You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.

You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.



Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.

If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.

If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.



Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.

The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.

Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.



Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.

Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.

You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.





Tips.

You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.

Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!

It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.

You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.

Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.

Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.

Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.

You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.



Warnings.

Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.

Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.



Things You'll.

Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).

140 to 180-grit sandpaper

Primer.

Acrylic paint.

Paintbrushes.

Sealer.

November 10, 2019