How to Make a Dinosaur Tail

How to Make a Dinosaur Tail.

A dinosaur tail can be used in a Halloween costume or be a new accessory for a dress-up game. Best of all, this fun, brightly-colored tail only takes 1-2 hours to make. If you’re familiar with a sewing machine, you can stitch your dinosaur tail together. For a quicker assembly, you can use hot glue. It only takes a few pieces of fabric and some fiber stuffing to take your child’s imagination to the next level!

Method 1 Creating a No-Sew Dinosaur Tail.
1. Cut a series of triangles into a long strip of fabric. Snip out a line of connected triangles from the strip. The total length of the strip should be 24 inches (61 cm) by 2 inches (5.1 cm). When you’re done, the felt should look like a miniature mountain range. Set this aside for later.
This strip will become the spikes of the dinosaur tail, so feel free to pick a bright, fun color!
When flattened, the fabric will look like a row of diamonds. This will be fixed later on when the spikes are folded and glued together.
Use fabric scissors for a quicker and smoother cut.
2. Trace the edge of a bowl onto the main fabric and cut it out. Flip over a bowl and trace its circumference onto the felt. The diameter of the bowl will be the width of your dinosaur tail, so make sure that it’s wide enough.
3. Cut out 2 strips of fabric for the waist straps and glue them in place. Use fabric scissors to cut 24 inches (61 cm) by 2 inches (5.1 cm) rectangular strips from the tail fabric. Then, fold in the edges lengthwise and glue them into place. Fold the fabric in half again and glue both sides together so the straps are less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick.
4. Crease and glue the line of fabric spikes together. Use short lines of hot glue to connect the folded spikes. Instead of looking like a row of diamonds, the felt will now look like a row of triangles.
5. Cut a large, curved triangle out of fabric to make the base of the tail. Measure out a curved triangle along the edge of a folded piece of fabric. You don’t have to use specific measurements, but make sure that the tail will fit around your circular piece.
6. Attach the spikes to the inner seam of the tail with hot glue. Use small lines of hot glue to connect the felt spikes with the outer edge of the tail. Apply glue on both sides of the spikes, as this piece will hold the tail together. Put pressure on the glued areas with your fingertips to secure the spiked tail into place.
Use additional glue at the pointy end of the tail to provide extra support.
Add extra glue as needed to connect the rest of the tail together.
7. Put fiber stuffing into the tail until it’s fully stuffed. Take a bag of fiber filling and stuff the tail completely. Place as much or as little stuffing as you would like inside.
Make sure that the pointy end of the tail is completely filled before continuing to stuff the rest.
8. Glue the waist straps and circular piece to the inside of the tail’s base. Take the waist strips and glue them on opposite ends of one another, using small lines of hot glue. These straps should be perpendicular to the line of spikes. Make sure that the circular base is glued snugly over the waist straps and is covering the end of the tail.
You can tie the waist straps together to secure the tail when your child wears it.

Method 2 Cutting and Sewing a Tail Shape.
1. Fold the fabric in half and mark 12 inches (30 cm) above the crease. Take 1 yard (0.91 m) of fabric and fold it in half horizontally. Use a tape measure (preferably non-mechanical) and mark 12 inches (30 cm) above your starting point on the fold. This indicates the height of your dinosaur tail.
Make sure that your measuring tape expands to at least 3 feet (0.91 m).
2. Make a second mark 24 inches (61 cm) down the fabric. Measure 24 inches (61 cm) from your starting point and mark the fabric. This 24 inches (61 cm) distance will serve as the length of your dinosaur tail.
Make sure that you have enough fabric for these measurements.
3. Make a third mark 2 inches (5.1 cm) above the second mark. Take your measuring tape and make a dot 2 inches (5.1 cm) above the second mark. This third measurement represents the pointy, bottom end of the tail.
4. Connect the 3 marks with a marker and cut out the tail shape. Use a fabric marker to sketch the line that connects these three points before removing the piece with scissors or a rotary cutter. Rotary cutters can be found at most craft stores, and provide a more even and exact cut along the edge of your fabric.
If you want to make your lines exact, use these measurements to sketch and cut a template out of cardboard beforehand.
5. Trace a plate on fabric twice to create 2 circles for the tail’s base. Place a ceramic plate onto the fabric and cut around it with scissors or a rotary cutter. Repeat this process so that you have 2 circles. The diameter of this circle will be the width of your dinosaur tail.
Use folded fabric if you want to cut 2 circles out at once.
6. Measure and cut out 2 pieces of fabric to create the waist straps. Use a measuring tape to mark and cut out 2 strips of fabric. The length should be 12 inches (30 cm), and the width should be 4 inches (10 cm).
These strips will help attach the dinosaur to a child’s waist.

Method 3 Adding the Spikes and Waist Straps.
1. Sketch a series of triangles onto a piece of felt using a fabric marker. Use a ruler or measuring tape to sketch a row of triangles onto the felt. Make the triangles, which will be the tail spikes, about 2 inches (5.1 cm) tall and 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide. Ensure that there’s 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) between each spike.
You can make the spikes bigger or smaller, depending on how you want the tail to look at the end.
You can also make individual triangular spikes.
2. Arrange the cut spikes on the edge of the tail fabric and pin them in place. Use fabric scissors to cut the spikes out of the felt. Begin constructing your dinosaur tail by positioning the trail of spikes between the folds of the base tail fabric. Pin the spikes so that they face inward, as you will be sewing the fabric from the inside out.
3. Use a sewing machine to attach the spikes to the main fabric. Feed the fabric through the machine to stitch the base tail fabric and spikes together. Go along the curved shape of the tail, leaving less than a 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) of space between the stitches and the fabric’s edge.
Pinch and tug on the fabric on the inside of the tail to pull the tail right side out.
Remember to remove the pins from the fabric as you sew.
4. Fold and pin the waist strap fabric at the ends before sewing the edges together. Crease the fabric along the center so that the short ends are touching, and use a few pins to secure the fabric in this position. Stitch the edges together lengthwise, but leave the shorter end open. Pinch the fabric on the inside of the stitching to pull the straps right side out.
You’ll be stitching the shorter, unsewn ends of the waist straps into the base of the tail.
5. Stitch the Velcro rectangles to the straps and attach the waist straps to the tail. Take a small rectangle of Velcro and place it on the sewn end of the waist strap before stitching it into place with a sewing machine. Then, take the unstitched ends of the waist straps and pin them to the inside of the tail. Make sure that the straps are placed perpendicular to the spikes before sewing them into place. Check to see that the strap is long enough to wrap around a child’s waist. Pin the straps onto the tail and sew them into place.
You can purchase Velcro at a craft store.
You can also sew Velcro by hand.
6. Pin the base circles along the edges and stitch together. Take the 2 base circles and secure them with pins along the edges. Make sure that the circles are centered against one another before you sew them together.
Leave at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of space to turn the circle right side out.
After sewing the edges together, pinch and tug at the inner fabric of the circle to make pull it right side out.
7. Fill the tail with stuffing until it has a firm shape. Take fiber filling and stuff the base of the tail. Use as much fiber as you need to completely fill the dinosaur tail.
You can buy fiber filling at a craft store. You may need more than one bag to fully stuff the tail.
8. Use a ladder stitch to close off the base and complete the tail. Tuck and fold the excess fabric into the tail before sewing it shut with a ladder stitch. This part can be completed by hand.
The ladder stitch helps all portions of stitching to look uniform.

Tips.
Iron your material beforehand to remove any wrinkles. Take an iron and apply heat to your fabric in long, even strokes. Loosely woven fabrics like cotton and linen are great options to make a dinosaur tail, or you can opt for satin if you want a shinier look. Check the care label on your fabric to ensure that it can be ironed before you proceed.
Things You’ll Need.
Creating a No-Sew Dinosaur Tail.
Fabric.
Felt.
Bowl.
Fabric marker.
Hot glue gun.
Hot glue sticks.
Scissors.
Cutting and Sewing a Tail Shape.
Fabric.
Measuring tape.
Fabric marker.
Scissors.
Rotary cutter (optional).
Plate.
Adding the Spikes and Waist Straps.
Felt.
Pins.
Sewing machine.
Scissors.
Small Velcro rectangles
Fiber stuffing.
Measuring tape.
Fabric marker.
Sewing needle.
Thread.

Maret 21, 2020

how to crochet a kitty eyeball toy

How to Crochet a Kitty Eyeball Toy.

A toy that says "eye love my cat". This eyeball toy is easy to crochet and will prove very entertaining for your cat.



Skill level: Intermediate



Steps.

1. Note that the pattern is worked continuously without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

2. Commence crocheting. With black, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc.

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc.

3. Change to Iris Color.

Rnd 3. Sc in blo of first sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 4. Sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 5. Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 6. Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 36 sc.

4. Change to white.

Rnd 7. Sc in blo of first 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 42 sc.

Rnds 8 - 14. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 15. Dec 1 in first 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, *dec 1 in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, rep from * around. 36 sc.

Rnd 16. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 17. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 18. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 19.' Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around. 12 sc.

5. Stuff the toy.

6. Complete Rnd 20. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc in rnd. Do not finish off; 6 sc.

7. Finish. Ch 3. Keep the loop of yarn on the crochet hook and pull it taut. Do not remove the hook! Hold the three feathers flat against the ch-3 chain, with the tips of the feathers pointing toward the eyeball.

8. Tape the feathers around the ch-3 chain to keep them in place, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the stems of the feathers extending above the tape. Then, still keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, take the free end of the yarn and wrap it tightly around the stem of the feathers, covering the tape and working from top to bottom.

9. Fold the stems of the feathers down over the section that was just wrapped in yarn and tape in place again. Once again, keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, wrap the free end of yarn tightly around the tape, this time working from bottom to top.

10. When the entire taped section is wrapped in yarn, begin with the loop still left on the crochet hook and work 36 ch as usual. Then remove the crochet hook from the last chain and thread the loop through the holes in the jingle bells (you may need to pull the loop to make it long enough to thread through the bells, but take care not to rip out the entire ch-36 chain).

11. Reinsert the hook into the loop and sl st in the first ch of the ch-36. Finish off. Weave in all ends. If desired, brush a coat of non-toxic white craft glue around the wrapped, taped ends of the feathers to prevent unraveling. Allow to dry completely overnight.

12. Finished.



Tips.

Finished size: About 3 inches (7.6 cm) in diameter.

Abbreviations.



blo = back loops only.

ch = chain.

dec = decrease.

ea = each.

mm = millimeter.

rep = repeat.

rnd = round.

rnds = rounds.

sc = single crochet.

sl st = slip stitch.

yd = yard.

Things You'll Need.

White: 120 yard (109.7 m) 4/worsted weight yarn.

Iris color: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Black: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook.

Two 3/4-inch jingle bells.

Three craft feathers.

Stitch markers.

Yarn needle.

Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice.

Clear adhesive tape.

Non-toxic white craft glue (optional").

Februari 23, 2020

how to make bottle penguins

How to Make Bottle Penguins.

There are lots of ways to recycle plastic soda bottles, and turning them into adorable penguins is one of them. With a little bit of paint, time, and creativity, you can turn 2 plastic soda bottles into an adorable penguin. If you have a lot of plastic soda bottles then you can create an entire penguin family!

Part 1 Assembling the Base.

1. Find 2 plastic soda bottles. The large, 2-liter (67.2-oz) bottles will work the best for this, but you can use smaller soda bottles too. Look for the kind that have the 4 bumps on the bottom. These bumps will make the feet and the hat.

The color of the bottles does not matter. You will be painting it.

2. Remove the labels and wash the bottles. Peel the labels off first, then wash the bottles inside-out with soap and warm water. Be sure to remove all sticker residue. Dry the bottles with a towel.

Wipe the bottles down with rubbing alcohol as well. This will remove any oils that might keep the paint from sticking. Let the bottles dry; this should only take a few seconds.

3. Cut the bottles in half and recycle the top sections. A craft blade will work the best for this, but you can do it with a sharp pair of scissors too. Young children should be supervised during this step.

If the cut edge is jagged, cut it smoother with a pair of scissors.

For a smaller penguin, cut the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) off of the first bottle, and cut the second bottle in half. The shorter half will make the bottom.

4. Tuck 1 bottle inside the other to make a capsule. Turn the bottles so that the cut edges are facing one another. Slide the first bottle into the second bottle by about 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). If the bottles won't fit inside one another, cut a 1⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) slit into 1 of the bottles first; place this edge on the inside.

Make sure that the 4 bumps on the top and bottom of the capsule line up.

5. Glue the bottles together, if desired. If the bottles are loose, glue them together with tacky glue or super glue. Pull the bottles apart, and paint the inside rim of 1 bottle with glue. Slide it over the other bottle.

Hot glue is not recommended because it is too bulky.

Alternatively, you can keep the bottles loose, and use the penguin as a gift box.

Part 2 Painting the Penguin.

1. Paint the entire capsule black, then let it dry. Take the capsule outside or into a well-ventilated area. Set it down on a sheet of newspaper, then coat it with black spray paint. Let the paint dry for 15 to 20 minutes, then turn the capsule over. Spray paint the bottom and let it dry completely.

Hold the can 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) from the capsule, and spray using a side-to-side motion.

If the paint is too thin, let it dry completely, then apply another coat of paint.

If you don't have spray paint, paint the capsule using black acrylic craft paint and a paintbrush.

2. Paint the penguin's face and belly white, then allow them to dry. Use a pointed paintbrush and white acrylic craft paint to outline the white face and belly of the penguin. Fill your outline in using a flat paintbrush. Let the paint dry, then add another layer if the first layer is too thin. Let the second layer dry too, if you added it.

Look at pictures of real or cartoon penguins to get ideas for the placement of the white parts.

Make sure that 2 of the bumps on the base of the capsule line up with the bottom of the penguin's belly. These are its feet!

If you are making a smaller penguin, use the shorter half to make the bottom.

3. Give the penguin a widow's peak, if desired. Use a pointed brush and black acrylic craft paint to draw a V-shape at the top of the penguin's white face. Fill the V-shape in with black paint so that it blends in with the body. For an even nicer finish, made the sides of the V-shape curved so that it looks like Mickey Mouse's widow's peak. Let the paint dry before moving on.

4. Paint 2 eyes and a beak using acrylic craft paint. Use a yellow upside-down triangle for the beak, and 2 black dots for the eyes. For a more realistic beak, paint a yellow or orange circle, then draw a horizontal black line going through the middle.

Look at pictures of cartoon penguins to get ideas.

You can also hot glue 2 buttons or 2 googly eyes for the eyes.

If you don't have yellow paint, cut a triangle out of yellow paper, and glue that on instead.

Part 3 Adding Optional Details.

1. Give your penguin character with lashes, eyebrows, and/or blush. You don't have to do any of these, but they can really give your penguin personality. Use a very thin brush for the lashes and/or eyebrows, or a paint pen. Use a larger pointed brush to apply pink paint for the blush.

If you want to give your penguin visible yellow feet, paint the 2 bumps in the front (under the white bellow) with yellow acrylic craft paint.

2. Paint the top half of the bottle to turn it into a hat. The 4 bumps on top of your penguin's head can easily turn into a hat. Paint a line around the penguin's head, just above the eyes, then fill in everything above that line. Use whatever color you want.

If you have a molded line just below the bumps, you can use that as a guide instead.

3. Let the hat dry, then add some details. You can make the hat look more hat-like by painting or drawing some stripes or spots onto it. Use a thin, pointed paintbrush and acrylic craft paint in a contrasting color to do this. Let the paint dry when you are done.

Use a paint pen for thin stripes or small dots.

4. Glue a pompom to the top of the hat, if desired. You can make the pompom yourself out of yarn, or you can buy it from the kids section of a craft store. Hot glue the pompom to the top of the hat, right between all 4 bumps.

Choose a pompom color that matches the designs on your hat. If you did not add designs, then use a contrasting color instead.

5. Tie ribbon around the neck to make a scarf. Find some ribbon that goes well with the hat. Wrap the ribbon around the penguin's neck, then cross the left end over the right end. Bring the left end up through the gap, then tighten it. This is just like starting to tie a pair of shoes!

Glue both ends of the ribbon to the penguin so that they stay down.

If you are turning this into a gift box, make sure that you keep the ribbon below the seam.

You can also cut a long, skinny strip out of felt, and use that instead of ribbon. Cut fringes into each end for additional charm.

Question : How do we make the eyes?
Answer : Cut out two small black circles, and two slightly larger yellow circles. Glue the black circles onto the yellow circles, and glue those onto the white face.

Question : We don't have to remove the bottle cap?
Answer : If you have removed the cap, you will have to tape or otherwise plug the hole on the top to "sculpt" the rounded top of the head on, so it is not recommended to remove the cap. However, taping or a cork replacement can be used.

Question : Can I use a plastic bottle?
Answer : Yes, but it may be hard to paint.

Tips.

If you want your penguin to have a pointy hat, discard 1 of the bottom halves and keep 1 of the top halves. Use the top half as the hat.

Use paintbrushes made from sable or taklon bristles. Do not use boar bristle, horsehair, or camelhair.

Spray the penguin with varnish or sealer, if desired. Do this after you finish painting, but before you add pompoms and scarves.

You can spray the capsule with paint primer first to help the paint stick better.

If you are worried about the paint chipping, spray the capsule with paint primer before you start painting.

Warnings.

Use low-temp hot glue guns to avoid blisters and burns. Do not use high-temp hot glue guns.

Things You'll Need.

2 plastic soda bottles, Craft blade, Black spray paint, Acrylic craft paint (white, yellow, and black).

Acrylic craft paint, 2 contrasting colors, Flat and pointed paintbrushes, Ribbon or felt, Pompom, Hot glue, Tacky glue or super glue.

Januari 23, 2020

how to make papier mache eggs

How to Make Papier Mâché Eggs.

Papier-mâché eggs are both easy and fun to make. You can paint them bright colors and use them as Easter decorations, or you can paint them to look like real wild bird eggs and display them in your room. They do take a few days to dry, but they are a great, hands-on activity, which many children love. When you are finished, you can even fill them with candies, and crack them open later!

Method 1 Making Basic Eggs.

1. Blow up a balloon, tie the end into a knot, and set it down in a small cup. The cup will prevent the balloon from rolling away while you work.

2. Mix 2 parts white school glue with one part water in a small bowl. This will be your papier-mâché glue.

3. Tear some paper into small squares or rectangles. Newspaper works best, but you can also use plain newsprint paper from the craft store instead. Don't cut the paper; the ragged edges will help the paper seal together and give you a smoother finish.

Consider using both newspaper and tissue paper. This way, when you do multiple layers, you will be able to see which one you are working on.

Avoid using plain printer paper or construction paper. Both are too thick and too stiff for this project.

4. Dip a paper strip into the glue, and place it onto the balloon. Drag the strip across the edge of the bowl as you pull it out. This will remove any excess glue. Place it down near the top of the balloon. Use your fingers or a paintbrush to smooth the paper down so that it lays flat against the balloon.

5. Continue applying the paper strips until the balloon is completely covered. Overlap the strips slightly as you work from one end of the balloon to the other. Work your way from the top of the balloon all the way down to the tail end. Do not cover the tail, or you won't be able to remove the balloon.

6. Apply a second layer of paper. You don't have to dip these strips of paper into the glue. Simply stick them to the wet paper that's already on the balloon, and use your fingers or a paintbrush to smooth down the edges.

Consider using a tissue paper or plain newsprint for this layer. This way, you will be able to see what's cover and what isn't.

Two layers is ideal for eggs that you want to cut open. If you want a sturdier egg, apply a third layer. You may have to use some extra glue for this one.

7. Hang the balloon up to dry. Use a clothespin to clip the balloon to a hanger or clothesline. Wait for it to dry completely before moving on. It may take up to 2 or 3 days.

8. Pop and remove the balloon. Once the egg is completely dry, gently tug the balloon tail up so that you expose a bit of the balloon. Pierce it with a pin or pair of scissors and wait for the balloon to deflate. Once it is completely deflated, pull it out and discard it.

9. Cover the hole with 2 to 3 layers of paper and glue and wait for it to dry. Use the same technique as you did for the rest of your egg. If you wish to fill your egg, then do so before covering up the hole.

10. Paint the egg a solid color using acrylic or tempra paint and wait for it to dry. To make the paint really stand out, coat the entire egg using white primer and let it dry. Once you have your white base, you can paint your egg any color you want.

11. Add patterns to the eggs, if desired. Once your base color has dried, you can paint designs onto it. You can also draw designs using glitter glue or puffy paints instead.

Great Easter designs include: stripes, dots, and squiggles. Try to use soft, pastel colors.

12. Consider giving the eggs a final coating of gloss. Once all the paint has dried, spray or paint the eggs with a glossy sealer. You can even use a glittery sealer to give it some extra sparkle.This will help make them more durable.

If you'd like, you can cut the egg in half using jagged, zigzag lines so that it resembles a cracked open egg. When you are done, you can fill each half with fake grass, and place a little chick or bunny figure in each.

Things You'll Need : Water balloon, Newspaper, Paintbrush, Water, White school glue, Small cup, Scissors, Clothespin.

Method 2 Making Tissue Paper Eggs

1. Blow up a water balloon, tie the end into a knot, and set it down into a cup. The cup will hold the balloon sturdy while you work.

2. Pour some liquid starch or decoupage glue into a bowl. You can also mix your own glue by using 2 parts white school glue and 1 part water.

3. Cut the white tissue paper into 1½-inch (3.81 centimeters) squares and set it aside. This will make the base for your egg. One sheet will be enough to coat three eggs.

4. Cut the colored tissue paper into 1½-inch (3.81 centimeters) squares and set it aside. This will make the outside of your egg. You can make it all one color or many different colors. Some crafters have noted that lighter colored tissue paper, such as yellow, shows the layering and overlapping more.

To make polka dot eggs, punch a ¾-inch (1.91 centimeters) circle in the center of your square using a scrapbooking hole punch. Discard the circles, and use the squares so that you get white polkadots on your egg.

5. Start applying the base layer using the white tissue paper. Brush on some of your glue onto the balloon, and press a piece of white tissue paper onto it. Smooth it down with a brush dipped in more glue. Overlap the pieces as you cover the entire egg.

Start applying the tissue paper at the top of the balloon and work your way towards the tail. Don't cover the tail up.

6. Apply the colored layer. If the tissue paper on the balloon is already damp, you do not need to apply more glue. Simply press a piece of colored tissue paper onto it, and smooth it down with a little more glue. Remember to overlap the pieces by a little.

If you are making polka dotted eggs, be careful not to cover up the white polka dots!

7. Hang the balloon up to dry overnight. You can do this by clipping the tail of the balloon to a hanger or to a clothesline. This can take 2 to 3 days.

8. Pop and remove the balloon. Make sure that the balloon is completely dry, then gently tug on the balloon tail until you expose a bit of the balloon. Pierce the balloon with a pin or a pair of scissors. Wait for the balloon to deflate, then pull it out and discard it.

9. Fill the egg with candy, if desired. Small candies, such as chocolate eggs, work great! Be careful not to overfill the egg; it is still very fragile. If you do not wish to fill your egg, you can move onto the next step.

10. Cover the hole with 2 to 3 more layers of colored tissue paper. Use the same technique as you did when first covering the egg. Let the patch covering the hole dry before moving on.

Because these eggs are made from colorful tissue paper, they don't need to be painted. You can still decorate them, however, with glitter glue if you'd like.

11. Give the eggs away as gifts or use them as decorations. To open the eggs, simply tear them apart. They make great gifts for Easter baskets!

Things You'll Need : Water balloon, White tissue paper, Colorful tissue paper, Paintbrush, Liquid laundry starch or decoupage glue, Small cup, Scissors, Clothespin.

Question : Can I fill a paper mache creation with something to make it heavier?
Answer : Sure! Candy works well if you want it to be like a pinata.

Question : Which one is stronger?
Answer : Method 1 will give you a stronger, more durable result, as newspaper is thicker than tissue paper.

Question : Which method is better to create the eggs?
Answer : It depends on what you are looking for. The 1st method is better for making stronger eggs, for example, to put heavier objects in. However, the 2nd method is better if you want to put candy in, as they are much easier to open up, especially for children. If you're thinking of using them for decorations, method 2 would make for prettier, delicate decorations indoors, but method 1 is more advisable for outdoor decorations as the eggs will be more durable against the weather.

Tips.

For a vintage design, use newspaper and don't paint the eggs. Instead, give them a coat of glossy varnish.

You should tear newspaper and newsprint, but you don't have to tear tissue paper.

You can also do this project using regular balloons as well, but it will take more time to dry.

If the egg collapses when you remove the balloon, stick a pen, pencil, or chopstick into it and push the dents out as best you can.

Paint the egg to resemble real bird eggs. Look up pictures of interesting bird eggs online, and try to copy them as best you can. You can create speckles by splattering paint over the egg.

For something quick and easy, decorate your egg with stickers. If this is for Easter, use Easter themed stickers.

If you made your egg using newspaper and wish to paint it, add a layer of blank newsprint or white tissue paper. This way, the letters won't show through.

Decoupage shapes cut out of paper onto your finished egg instead of painting the designs.

Punch out shapes out of tissue paper using scrapbook punches, and press these shapes onto your egg while it is still wet.

Try printed paper that has patterns on it. Origami paper and printed tissue paper is great for this. Avoid using thick or glossy paper, such as gift wrap; it is too thick and stiff for this project.

Warnings.

Do not get impatient when it comes to drying. The papier-mâché must be completely dry before you remove the balloon. If you remove it too soon, the whole egg will collapse!

Januari 21, 2020

how to make a bird nest

How to Make a Bird Nest.

A bird's nest makes a wonderful mantelpiece decoration, and can make use of almost anything you find along a nature hike, or in your front yard. Wild birds usually prefer to make their own nests, but you can lure many species to your yard by leaving the right materials outside, or building a nesting box.

Method 1 Building a Decorative Nest.

1. Find long, flexible plant stems. These will form the main shape of the nest, and are much easier to work with than hard, short twigs. You can use straw, long grass, vines, willow fronds, bendy reeds, or seagrass found outdoors or at a garden supply store. Raffia is another good option, obtainable from a craft supply store.

If Mexican feather grass grows in your area, grab a clump of it and pull your hand upward to remove a handful of hairy seeds clinging together. Once you have enough seeds, clump them into a ball and make a nest shape by sticking your thumb into it.

2. Bend the stems into a loop. Grab a thick handful of the stems, and bend them into a U shape, adding more stems if necessary to form a full circle. Tie it in place using a piece of string or florist wire. If the plant stems have many little leaves, or if they're wiry and dry, you can even weave them together without using any attachment.

If tying the nest together is too hard, you can clip them temporarily in place while waiting for glue to dry. Don't use glue if you plan to keep the nest outdoors.

If your fresh-cut plants won't stay in position, try hanging up the bundle in a windy area to dry for 24 hours. Some plant stems are easier to bend when fresh, but grasses and straw benefit from drying.

3. Shape the rest of the nest. Grab a second, smaller handful of stems and shape it into a smaller loop. Wedge this inside the larger loop and push it downward to form the base of the loop. Depending on how well the stems fit together and how sturdy you want the nest to be, you may need to use a thread  or glue to fasten the two loops together.

4. Decorate with scavenged materials. Real birds sometimes spend days collecting bits and pieces to build a nest. Hopefully you're a little faster, but you can still have fun gathering objects from nature or your craft boxes. Here are some ideas to get you started:

If you plan to leave the nest outside, only use materials found outdoors, and nothing that could hurt an animal.

Feathers and pieces of eggshell fit the theme. Be aware that collecting most wild feathers is illegal in the United States, but they are mostly harmless from a disease perspective.

Look for twigs, leaves, bark, and moss in interesting shapes and colors.

If the nest is for indoor decoration, you can use bits of string, colored paper shreds, and confetti.

5. Place eggs inside (optional). Finish your art project by placing eggs or fake eggs inside the nest. You can quickly add marbles or colorful pebbles, or hollow out real eggs, decorate them, or even carve them if you have the right tools.

Things You'll Need.

Any long, flexible bundle of stems, grass, or straw, String, florist's wire, or glue (recommended unless stems interweave easily).

Moss, bark, twigs, or other decorative materials, Eggs and egg-blowing materials (optional), Marbles, pebbles, or other "fake eggs" (optional).

Method 2 Attracting Wild Birds to Nearby Nests.

1. Look up the nesting habits of local birds. Find a local wildlife guide at a library or bookstore, or search online for information on local birds. Choose one or more species you want to attract, and look up their nesting habits to discover what shape and style of nest will be most effective.

If you live in North America, NestWatch is an excellent resource for nesting information, and one you can expand with your own data.

2. Leave nesting material in your yard. This is an easy way to attract birds, and might be worth it even if you end up building a full nest as well. If you managed to find specific nesting information, you'll know what materials to leave, but you can't go wrong with a few items from the following list, left in visible locations:

Rigid twigs (for platform nest species) and flexible ones (for cup nest species).

Yard clippings such as dry grass and straw, bits of bark and moss, dead leaves, etc.

Human or animal hair or fur (no longer than 6 inches / 15 centimeters).

Yarn or string.

Mud, spiderwebs, and/or caterpillar cocoons to help birds bind nesting materials together.

Never leave out materials that have come into contact with harsh chemicals, including dye, pesticides, or anti-flea treatments. Dryer lint and clothing rags are not recommended.

3. Provide a variety of plants. If you want to attract birds that make nests in existing holes, leave dead tree stumps and fallen logs in the yard. Living trees and bushes will attract more visible nests from other species, especially if the plants are native to your area. For best results, plant a "staircase" of grass or moss, flowering perennials, shrubs, and trees.

4. Build a nesting box. If there aren't obvious crevices or hollows in your yard, building a nesting box or birdhouse is a simple carpentry project. Make sure the birdhouse is constructed to match the size of the birds you want to attract, or the size of the birds you see flying near your home.

For a higher chance of success, follow birdhouse building instructions specific to common North American species.

Clean out the birdhouse regularly whenever birds are not nesting.

5. Make a bird's nest. Many birds prefer to make their own nest rather than move in to a ready-made one. Lining natural hollows with the nesting materials listed above may give a bird an attractive head start. If you want to make a different type of nest, such as a cup or platform nest, it's best to follow the specific habits of the bird species you want to attract. Each species tends to prefer certain materials.

Placement of the nest is also important. Many bird species hide their nest amidst thick branches, but some prefer more open branches, bushes, or open patches of ground. Look for more information on NestWatch, through online searches, or in a local bird nest identification guide.

Things You'll Need.

Any yard clippings, especially twigs and grasses, String or yarn, Mud, spiderwebs, or caterpillar cocoons.

Human hair or animal fur, Small amount of lumber and nails (to build a nesting box, if hollow logs not available).

Question : Where do you get all the supplies?
Answer : You can find the necessary items on the ground in a park or wooded area, perhaps even your back yard!

Question : How do I make the nest big?
Answer : You can use longer sticks that are pliable enough to bend. Just make sure not to break them.

Question : What if I live in the city?
Answer : If you live in the city and want to attract birds, put up bird feeders. Birds love cracked corn, nyjer seeds, black oil seeds, fruits, and millet. Just make sure to take measures to keep the squirrels out.

Question : Am I allowed to take care of a wild baby bird if its mother is away and it's storming outside?
Answer : No. Leave the baby bird alone. Its mother will come back for it. Wild animals can take care of each other and themselves, they very rarely need our help. The bird will be fine in the storm.

Question : How do I make a bottled nest box?
Answer : Just take a milk bottle (not glass) and make an opening in the body of the box. Then take a rope and make holes at the top and tie the rope to the holes. Make sure you make it tight.

Question : Can I hatch the eggs myself?
Answer : If it is a wild bird egg do not touch it. In the USA it is illegal to take care of wild birds.

Question : Can I look at the eggs when they have been laid?
Answer : You can take a peek, as long as the mother bird is not nearby. Make sure you don't touch the eggs, as you will leave a scent behind that the mother bird can detect.

Question : Are most bird nests made of straw, twigs, and mud?
Answer : Yes, that is what a typical bird nest is made of.

Question : What can I do about wild animals that eat the eggs?
Answer : It depends on the animal. For squirrels, you can't really do anything, but for other birds you can find a better spot to put the nesting box. You shouldn't worry too much, because the mother bird will protect it's young with her life.

Question : Can I make a bird nest from leftover grass from a lawn mower?
Answer : Lawn clippings are probably too short to make a decent nest. Maybe if you collect it and dry it out you can use a few pieces to line the nest.

Tips.

For a quick and easy nest, shred or cut a paper bag into thin strips. Line a bowl with a paper towel, arrange the strips over them, then glue the paper bag strips together and let dry into a nest shape.

It’s fine to take a look at the eggs, but be careful, because smart animals like coyotes can follow you to the nest. If you have no predators in the area, taking a look at the eggs will leave a scent, but birds don’t have a sense of smell.

Warnings.

If a wild bird moves in to your nest, don't disturb it or the surrounding area. Watch the nest from somewhere the bird can't see you, or you may scare the bird away or attract predators to the nest.

Januari 20, 2020

how to make a dog out of mardi gras beads

How to Make a Dog out of Mardi Gras Beads.

After a good celebration, you might find yourself with a whole bunch of leftover plastic bead necklaces. This simple craft is a cute and easy way to make use of these beads. They are made just like balloon animals, by twisting the necklace into the right shape.

Method 1 Bead dog.

1. Find the two beads melted together to form the join on the bead necklace. Give this a tug to break it. Then snip off the two "bad" beads with the melted sides.

2. Cut a string of beads twelve beads long and another two beads long. These pieces will form the body and the ears.

3. Twist four beads together behind the second bead on the long string. This will make a little square. One bead should be sticking up. This is the tail of the dog.

4. Do the same thing to the other side of the long piece except that after you twist the beads, 2 beads should be sticking out for the head. You should have one bead in between the the two sets of little squares.

5. Wrap the two beads behind the first bead on end with the two beads sticking out. This will make the ears and completes the dog.

6. Finished.

Method 2 Mardi Gras bead poodle.

1. Cut four segments from the plastic bead necklace. Cut one segment with 4 beads and three segments with 2 beads.

2. Lay out the 4-bead segment. Pick up one of the smaller segments.

3. At the space between the tip of the 4-bead segment and the second bead in that same segment, pull the small segment up so that the small segment crosses in between the beads on both segments.

4. Tighten the ears. Do this by twisting them around once.

5. Repeat with the other 2-bead segments. Except, this time, pull the small segments down instead of up, so that the ears stick up. The the legs point will also down, so the dog can stand.

6. Completed. This now makes a fine poodle.

Question : Method 2 looks too cartoonish, so I cannot see the character of the poodle. Please help.

Answer : Because of the size of the beads, the final project is the equivalent of a stick figure drawing in method 2. Method 1 is a basic "dog." To make a larger animal, it requires the beads to be supported by a wire frame to give it a realistic shape. Floral wire holds well for this purpose. Use a stick figure design with the wire, then wrap the beads around the wire. Since it is larger, try using the necklace as is for a double strand of beads.

Tips.

There are lots of things that you can do with these dogs such as adding then to a key ring, using in crafts, gluing onto hair accessories or giving them away as party treats.

Warnings.

All beads can be a choking hazard. Make sure to keep them away from small children and pets.

Things You'll Need.

A plastic Mardi Gras bead necklace

Scissors

Januari 17, 2020

how to building a papier mache dino

How to Building a Papier-Mâché Dino.

With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.

Steps.
1. Blow up a balloon, tear newspaper into strips, and make a papier-mâché paste. Blow up a balloon to your desired size. Next, tear some newspaper into narrow strips, about 1 by 3 in (2.5 by 7.6 cm). Lastly, prepare your preferred papier-mâché glue or paste.

The most popular papier-mâché paste is just 1 part water and 1 part PVA glue (white school glue).

Start with just 1 or 2 sheets of newspaper; you can always make more strips.

Don't cut the strips, or the edges will be too sharp and create creases. Tearing them will give you a smoother finish.

2. Dip the strips into the paste, then apply them to the balloon. Run each strip of newspaper between your fingers after dipping it in the paste; this will remove any excess glue. Make sure that the strips are all going in the same direction as you apply them.

Overlap the strips a little, such as by 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm).

Keep the balloon in a cup or bowl so that it doesn't roll around. You may have to let 1 side of the balloon dry first before doing the other.

Leave a coin-sized space at one end of the balloon exposed so that you can pop the balloon later.

3. Apply 2 more layers of papier-mâché. You probably don't need to use the glue for the second layer; the wet strips already adhered to the balloon should be enough for the new ones to stick to. If the balloon starts to get too soggy, however, let it dry a bit, then continue working.

Consider using white tissue paper for as a fourth and final layer. This will give you a smoother base and help the paint show up better.

If you choose to use tissue paper, then make sure that you tear it into 3 by 1 in (7.6 by 2.5 cm) strips as well.

4. Let the strips dry overnight, then pop and remove the balloon. You may have to wait even longer than that, depending on how dry or humid it is in your home. In fact, it would be a good idea to poke your finger under the papier-mâché; if it feels wet, give it a little more time.

This completes your dinosaur's body.

Don't worry about the hole left by the balloon. You'll end up covering it with the dinosaur's head or tail.

5. Tape paper towel roll segments to the balloon for legs. Turn the papier-mâché balloon on its side, then use masking tape to secure the legs to the bottom.

Don't use clear tape; it won't stick to the papier-mâché.

You can also just cut 2 empty toilet paper rolls in half and use those instead.

6. Use cardboard, paper towel tubes, and foil to make the other limbs. Scrunch up aluminum foil into a ball to make a head, and then use aluminum foil shaped into a cone for the tail. The size and shape for each depends on what type of dinosaur that you're making, so look at some reference pictures. Here are some more ideas to get you started.

Triceratops: cut a round, scalloped shape out of cardboard for the fan. Use foil to make the horns.

Stegosaurus: cut triangles out of cardboard for the fins.

Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: use a paper towel tube to make the neck.

7. Tape the pieces to the body with masking tape. Take 1 of your pieces, and hold it against the balloon where you want it to go. Secure it with strips of masking tape until the seam is completely hidden. Again, don't use clear tape, because it won't hold.

Triceratops: tape the fan to the balloon first, then add the head (you may have to use hot glue to secure it). Finish by sticking the horns to the head.

Stegosaurus: tape or hot glue the head to 1 side of the body and the tail to the other. Use strips of tape to add the fins down the back and tail.

Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: tape the head to the long neck first, then tape the head to the body. Add the tail to the other side of the body.

8. Cover the pieces and the seams with more papier-mâché. Start by applying strips of papier-mâché to the seams. After that, cover the shapes themselves. If the pieces feel unstable, add more papier-mâché to the seams.

You may have to tear more strips of newspaper and prepare more papier-mâché paste for this.

Consider making some smaller strips for sharp curves and tight corners.

If the hole from when you removed the balloon is still visible, cover it up with more papier-mâché.

9. Wait for everything to dry. How long it will take for your project to dry really depends on what the weather is like. Papier-mâché will dry a lot faster on a hot, dry, sunny day than on a cold, wet, day. Be patient!

10. Paint the dinosaur as desired, then let the paint dry. Acrylic craft paint will work just fine for this, but you can use poster paint too. You can use realistic colors for your dinosaur, like gray, brown, and green, or you can use fantasy colors, like pink, purple, and blue.

For a nicer finish, paint the dinosaur white first, then let the paint dry. This will give you a clean "canvas" to work on.

Don't forget to add eyes and a mouth. You can paint the eyes, or glue googly eyes on instead.

How long it will take for the paint to dry will depend on what type of paint you're using. Plan to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.

Tips.

Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!

Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.

Things You'll Need.

White school glue, Newspaper, Balloon, Cardboard, Aluminum foil, Empty toilet paper rolls, Masking tape, Acrylic paint or poster paint, Scissors.

Desember 25, 2019

how to making a long necked 3d dino

How to Making a Long-Necked 3D Dino.

With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.

Steps.

1. Fold and cut a plain white paper plate in half with scissors. Fold the plate in half first, then use the crease as a cutting guide. For best results, use the kind that's made from cardstock and has a frilled edge, rather than the kind that's made from thick cardboard with a rim.

Set aside 1 of the paper plate halves; this will make the body.

2. Cut a dino head, tail, and spikes from the other paper plate half. Draw the shapes on the second paper plate half (the other one will be the body), then cut them out. Make sure that the limbs are proportionate to the body. Don't worry about the feet; you will be using toilet paper rolls for that.

Make the spikes about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall and wide.

Make the tail about 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wide at the base, and about 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the paper plate.

If you don't know how to draw a dinosaur head, tail, or spikes, look at pictures of cartoon dinosaurs online or in coloring books.

Use the brim to make the neck, if desired. Cut it off first so that you get a C-shape, then cut it in half. Use 1 of these halves to make the neck.

3. Glue the cut shapes to the other paper plate half. The straight edge of the plate is the bottom of the dinosaur, while the curved side is the back. Glue the tail to 1 end and the neck and/or head to the other. If you made spikes, glue them down the dinosaur's back.

4. Use scissors to cut an empty toilet paper roll into thirds. Keep 2 of the segments and discard the third. This will give you rings that are a little over 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. If you don't have any empty toilet paper rolls, you can use an empty paper towel roll instead.

If you're using an empty paper towel roll, cut 2 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) segments from it.

5. Cut a set of slits into the top of each toilet paper ring. You will be sliding the dinosaur's body into these slits, so make sure that they are directly across from each other. The easiest way to do this would be to squish the rings in half, then cut a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) long slit into each one.

6. Slide the dinosaur into the slits. Take the first roll, and turn it so that 1 slit is facing the dinosaur's head and the other is facing its tail. Slide the bottom edge of the dinosaur's body into the slit. Repeat this process for the other leg.

Slide the legs apart until they are on opposite sides of the plate.

7. Paint the dinosaur, then let it dry. Acrylic craft paints will work great for this, but you can also use poster paint too! Use the same colors and patterns for both the front and back. How long it will take for the paint to dry depends on what you are using. Expect to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.

You can take the dinosaur's body off of its feet in order to paint it. Do the front first, let it dry, then do the back.

Don't forget to paint the eyes and mouth! Alternatively, you can glue on some googly eyes after the paint has dried.

Tips.

Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!

Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.

Things You'll Need.

White paper plate, Empty toilet paper roll, Scissors, Green acrylic paint or poster paint, Glue stick or white school glue.

Desember 25, 2019

how to crochet a kitty eyeball toy

How to Crochet a Kitty Eyeball Toy.

A toy that says "eye love my cat". This eyeball toy is easy to crochet and will prove very entertaining for your cat.

Skill level: Intermediate

Steps.

1. Note that the pattern is worked continuously without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

2. Commence crocheting. With black, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc.

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc.

3. Change to Iris Color.

Rnd 3. Sc in blo of first sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 4. Sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 5. Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 6. Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 36 sc.

4. Change to white.

Rnd 7. Sc in blo of first 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 42 sc.

Rnds 8 - 14. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 15. Dec 1 in first 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, *dec 1 in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, rep from * around. 36 sc.

Rnd 16. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 17. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 18. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 19.' Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around. 12 sc.

5. Stuff the toy.

6. Complete Rnd 20. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc in rnd. Do not finish off; 6 sc.

7. Finish. Ch 3. Keep the loop of yarn on the crochet hook and pull it taut. Do not remove the hook! Hold the three feathers flat against the ch-3 chain, with the tips of the feathers pointing toward the eyeball.

8. Tape the feathers around the ch-3 chain to keep them in place, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the stems of the feathers extending above the tape. Then, still keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, take the free end of the yarn and wrap it tightly around the stem of the feathers, covering the tape and working from top to bottom.

9. Fold the stems of the feathers down over the section that was just wrapped in yarn and tape in place again. Once again, keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, wrap the free end of yarn tightly around the tape, this time working from bottom to top.

10. When the entire taped section is wrapped in yarn, begin with the loop still left on the crochet hook and work 36 ch as usual. Then remove the crochet hook from the last chain and thread the loop through the holes in the jingle bells (you may need to pull the loop to make it long enough to thread through the bells, but take care not to rip out the entire ch-36 chain).

11. Reinsert the hook into the loop and sl st in the first ch of the ch-36. Finish off. Weave in all ends. If desired, brush a coat of non-toxic white craft glue around the wrapped, taped ends of the feathers to prevent unraveling. Allow to dry completely overnight.

12. Finished.

Tips.

Finished size: About 3 inches (7.6 cm) in diameter.


Abbreviations:

blo = back loops only, ch = chain, dec = decrease, ea = each, mm = millimeter, rep = repeat.

rnd = round, rnds = rounds, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, yd = yard.


Things You'll Need.

White: 120 yard (109.7 m) 4/worsted weight yarn.

Iris color: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Black: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook.

Two 3/4-inch jingle bells.

Three craft feathers.

Stitch markers, Yarn needle.

Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice.

Clear adhesive tape.

Non-toxic white craft glue (optional").

Desember 12, 2019

how to make a brown sock cow

How to Make a Brown Sock Cow.

Cows are a favorite barnyard animal among kids of all ages. If you want to make your own cow, there are many different ways to do it, so you can choose a craft based on the materials you have on hand.

Steps.

1. Cut the toe off. Use scissors to cut off the rounded toe end, removing roughly one-fifth of the sock in the process.

On a standard adult sock, the length of the cut portion should be between 4 and 5 inches (10 and 12.5 cm).

The cut toe portion will become the head of the cow. Save the rest of the sock for the body.

2. Stuff and seal the ends. Stuff the cut toe portion with a small bundle of fiberfill or similar filling material. Leave the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) empty; glue or sew the ends together.

Fold the raw open edge in by no more than 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).

To create a rounded head, you'll need to begin by gluing the sides of the empty portion together. Glue the opening closed, then fold it down over the stuffed bundle. Stitch or glue the folded material in place.

3. Cut off the cuff. Cut off the back opening of the sock, removing a portion equal in length to the original cut toe portion.

The cut portion should be about one-fifth the length of the original sock. On a standard adult's sock, this should be roughly 4 to 5 inches (10 to 12.5 cm).

You'll use parts of this cut portion for the ears. The leftover sock will be used for the body.

4. Separate the cuff into two ovals. Cut the cuff in half, parallel to the ribbing. Cut out one long oval from each half.

Each oval should have roughly the same width and length of the cuff half.

These ovals will become the ears. You can discard the rest of the cuff material.

5. Stitch the sides. Fold one oval in half crosswise. Using a needle and thread, blanket stitch over the the raw, rounded edge. Repeat with the second oval.

Alternatively, you can use hot glue to hold the ear halves together. Lay a thin stream of hot glue around the entire edge, then carefully press the raw edges into the glue. With the raw edges trapped, fold the oval in half crosswise, sticking both ends together.

6. Attach the ears to the head. Place the flat edge of one ear along one fold of the head. Repeat with the other ear and the other head fold.

You should be able to attach the ears with either thread or hot glue.

7. Add button eyes. Sew two buttons two the front of the head, positioning them roughly halfway between the ears and the original toe-seam of the sock.

8. Place the felt nostrils. Peel the backings off two small, self-adhesive round felt pads. Place each pad onto the original two-seam of the head.

Align these felt pads to the eyes of the cow.

9. Cut slits into the remaining sock body. Flip the remaining sock over so that the heel faces up. Cut straight slits through both sides of the material from either end of the sock.

Keep both slits as centered as possible from either end. Each should span roughly one-half to two-thirds the space in between the open end and the nearest side of the heel. On a standard adult's sock, the slits should be 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) long.

10. Stitch around the slits. Turn the sock inside-out and sew along all of the raw edges, leaving roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) open along the back slit.

As you sew along the slits and the raw open edges, you should see the legs of the cow taking shape. The front of the sock should form the front legs and the back of the sock should form the back legs.

Once you finish sewing along these raw edges, turn the body right-side out again through the remaining gap.

11. Stuff the body with fiberfill. Insert fiberfill or a similar material into the body of the cow through the open gap.

When finished, carefully turn the raw edge inward. Glue or edge-stitch the opening closed.

12. Attach the head to the body. Place the head of the cow in between the heel and the front legs. Sew or glue into place.

13. Attach yarn to the back end. Cut a piece of brown yarn equal in length to the cow's back legs. Knot both ends of the yarn, then stitch or glue it in place.

The yarn become the tail of the cow. You'll need to attach one end to the back of the heel, centering it in between the two back legs. The other end should hang free.

14. Enjoy. The sock cow should now be finished.

Things You'll Need

Fiberfill stuffing,Scissors,Sewing needle,Brown thread,2 buttons,2 small self-adhesive felt pads,Brown yarn,Hot glue gun.

Desember 02, 2019

how to make pom pom sheep

How to Make Pom Pom Sheep.

Whether you're looking to make a cute Easter decoration or just a fun craft to do with your kids, a pom pom sheep fits the bill. It's easy to make your own pom pom with just some yarn and a piece of cardboard, so you can customize your sheep to look exactly the way you want. Add a simple head made of craft foam and googly eyes and pipe cleaner legs, and you have an adorable farm animal to decorate your home.

Part 1 Creating the Pom Pom.

1. Cut out a piece of cardboard. To make the pom pom for the sheep, you’ll need a cardboard rectangle to wrap your yarn around. For a large sheep, cut a piece that’s 3-inches by 5-inches (8-cm by 13-cm). For small sheep, cut a piece that’s 3-inches by 2-inches (8-cm by 5-cm).

You can adjust the size of the cardboard to customize the size of sheep if you prefer.

After you cut the cardboard, it’s a good idea to wrap it in packing tape. That will allow the yarn to slide off it more easily when you’re finished making the pom pom.

2. Wrap the yarn around the cardboard. For the pom pom, you need fluffy white, cream, brown, or black yarn. Instead of cutting the yarn to a certain length, remove an end from the ball or skein and begin wrapping it around the cardboard widthwise. For a large sheep, wrap the yarn around the cardboard 120 times. For a small sheep, wrap the yarn around the cardboard 75 to 80 times.

Use one hand to hold the end of the yarn in place as you wrap it side by side in a single layer on the cardboard. Once you’ve covered the cardboard, start creating a second layer over the first. Continue working until you’ve wrapped the yarn around the suggested number of times.

While white, cream, brown, or black yarn offers the most realistic sheep look, you can substitute your favorite color yarn, such as pink or blue.

3. Bend the cardboard to slide off the yarn. When you’ve completely wrapped the cardboard with the yarn, use your fingers to bend the cardboard slightly widthwise to contract it. That makes it easier to carefully slide the yarn from the card.

Be gentle as you pull the yarn from the cardboard and make sure to hold it together so it stays together.

4. Tie twine around the middle of the yarn bundle. Once you’ve freed the yarn from the cardboard, use a piece of twine to secure the bundle in the middle. Tie the yarn as tightly as you can to ensure that it stays together.

If you don’t have twine, you can substitute a piece of yarn. However, twine is stronger than yarn so it usually does a better job of holding the pom pom together.

5. Cut the loops of the yarn to form the pom pom. When the yarn is securely tied with the twine, use a pair of scissors to cut the loops. This will create the pom pom shape for your sheep.

After you cut the loops, you may need to trim some pieces to get the look that you want for your sheep.

Part 2 Making the Head and Legs.

1. Draw the shape of the sheep’s head on craft foam and cut it out. To make the sheep’s face, you’ll need a piece of black craft foam. Use a pencil or pen to draw the shape of the sheep’s head, complete with ears, on the foam as a guide. Next, carefully cut the head out with a pair of scissors.

If you’re not comfortable drawing the sheep’s head freehand, you can find templates online at various craft websites, such as Dad Can Do .

The proper size for sheep’s head will depend on how large your pom pom is. It should fit on one end of the pom pom.

If you used dark yarn for the pom pom, use white craft foam for the head.

You can use a craft knife to cut out the head if you prefer.

2. Stick googly eyes on the head. Once you’ve cut out the sheep’s head, select two googly eyes that will fit on it side by side. Apply your favorite type of craft glue to the back of the eyes, and press them onto the foam head.

You can find googly eyes in a variety of sizes at the craft store.

Make sure to let the glue dry for at least 5 minutes, so you can be sure the eyes won’t fall off when you begin to assemble the sheep.

3. Fold two black pipe cleaners in half. For the sheep’s legs, you’ll need two black pipe cleaners that are approximately 4- to 5-inches (10- to 13-cm) long. Bend the pipe cleaner in half to create a “V” shape.

Part 3 Assembling the Sheep.

1. Glue the head to the front of the sheep. Add a dab of glue to the back of the sheep’s head that you’ve made. Carefully press it onto your pom pom, and hold it for 30 to 60 seconds to ensure that it is secure.

You can use any type of glue to secure that works on fabric to secure the head to the pom pom. However, you may have an easier time if you use a hot glue gun.

2. Thread the pipe cleaner front legs through the pom pom. Take one of the bent black pipe cleaners and push it through the pom pom on one side near the front. Make sure that the pipe cleaner is threaded through the yarn pom pom so it is secure.

Some thread may come loose when you thread the pipe cleaner through. You can trim any errant strands.

3. Press the second pipe cleaner through the back of the pom pom. After you’ve secured the pipe cleaner for the front legs, push the second one through the pom pom near the back. Pull it through to the other side to create the second set of legs.

Take care with your placement of the second pipe cleaner. You want to ensure that it’s far enough back from the first to provide proper balance for the sheep to stand.

4. Adjust the pipe cleaners to allow the sheep to stand. Once both pipe cleaners are threaded through the pom pom, bend the four ends to create feet that help the sheep stand. You may need to adjust the length of the pipe cleaners on each side to ensure that the sheep is balanced properly.

Tips.

You can use the same technique to create a create a pom pom bunny and/or chick to serve as Easter decorations.

This is a kid-friendly activity, but be sure to supervise their use of scissors and the hot glue gun.

Things You’ll Need.

Cardboard.

A ball or skein of fluffy yarn in white, cream, black, or brown.

Scissors.

Twine.

Black craft foam.

Two googly eyes.

Two black pipe cleaners.

Desember 01, 2019

how to make 3d paper clouds

How to Make 3D Paper Clouds.

There are few things as relaxing and inspiring as clouds, but you can't always go outside to look at them. Make a hanging cloud to enjoy the sight of the sky anytime you’re stuck indoors.

1. Draw a basic cloud shape on thick cardboard. Use a pencil or marker to draw a simple cloud shape onto thick cardboard. This will serve as your template. Draw the cloud the same size you want the finished product to be.

If you need a little guidance for sketching the cloud, run a Google image search using the search term "cloud shape." Tons of options will come up for you to choose from!

2. Cut the cloud shape out of the cardboard. Use sharp scissors or an X-ACTO knife to cut along the lines you drew. Cut your cloud template out completely. Discard the excess cardboard.

3. Trace around the cloud template on thick white card stock. Pick a heavy stock so your 3D clouds are fairly durable. Trace around the cloud template on two sheets of the heavy white stock. Use a pencil and sketch lightly so you won't leave any dark marks on your white paper.

4. Cut out each white cloud shape carefully. Use scissors or an X-ACTO knife to cut out the cloud shapes. Cut just inside the drawn line so that your shapes won't have any visible pencil marks around the edges.

Lightly erase any pencil marks that accidentally make it onto the final shapes. Be careful not to bend the edges of the paper as you do so!

5. Add a thin stripe of hot glue down the center of one cloud. Heat up your hot glue gun. Place one cloud shape on the table in front of you. Then, draw a thin line of hot glue directly down the center of one of the cloud shapes.

6. Place a length of fishing line directly into the glue. Cut a piece of fishing line at the length you want to hang your 3D cloud. It can be as long or as short as you like. Anywhere from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) would work great. Place the line vertically, directly into the line of glue.

There should be no fishing line dangling under the cloud; it should only extend from the top. You will use this to hang the cloud.

Make sure you're using fishing line, which is transparent. That way, when you hang the cloud, it will look like it's floating in the air. Avoid fishing wire.

7. Fold another cloud shape right down the center. Set the glued cloud aside for a moment. Take another white cloud shape and fold it in half horizontally. The crease should appear in the same place as the glue stripe on the first cloud -- right down the middle.

8. Place the folded edge into the hot glue. Once folded, line up the creased edge of the second cloud with the stripe of glue on your first cloud. Press the edge into the glue, right on top of the fishing line. Hold it in place for about 30 to 60 seconds to ensure you get a solid bond.

You may need to add some fresh hot glue if yours has dried up. Simply add a very thin line of it in the same place.

9. Hang the cloud by the string. You can hang you 3D cloud anywhere you like! Use the fishing line to tie it to a light fixture, ceiling hook, the cord of a ceiling fan, or anywhere else you please.

10Make multiple clouds. You don't have to stop at one cloud! Repeat these steps to create multiple clouds. Cut the fishing line at different lengths so the clouds will hang at different levels. You can also place more than one cloud on a string for a stacked effect.

Remember, each 3D cloud is made from two white cloud shapes. If you want your mobile to have six 3D clouds, you'll need to cut out 12 cloud shapes from the white card stock.

11. Glue the strings around the inside edge of an embroidery hoop (optional). An embroidery hoop is circular, so it's perfect for a mobile. Let the clouds dangle at different lengths, but make sure all the strings extend from the top of the hoop at the same length. You'll use the strings extending from the top to hang your mobile.

Once the glue is dry, gather together the strings at the top. Create a knot to lock them altogether. Suspend the mobile by the knotted string wherever you like!

If you've never seen an embroidery hoop before, it's a small wooden ring used for needlepoint and other sewing projects. It can be found at any craft or sewing store. It will also have a tiny metal tightening device on it, but you won't need that for this purpose.


Things You'll Need.

Thick cardboard.

Thick white card stock.

Scissors or an X-ACTO knife.

Hot glue gun.

Hot glue sticks.

Fishing line.

Embroidery hoop.

Ceiling hooks.


Tips.

Make a few clouds if you like the outcome; a ceiling with several clouds can look really awesome.

Consider painting your paper lantern with glow-in-the-dark paint first. Your cloud will have a subtle glow.

Don't over-fluff your cloud. If you pull on the stuffing too much, it will lose its shape and fall apart.

If you do felting, you can also make a fluffy cloud by felting a ball and putting some of the excess wool around it.

Warnings.

Polyester stuffing is flammable. Do not put clouds near any heat source (lamps, ceiling lights, etc.).

November 30, 2019

how to painting your flower pot

How to Painting Your Flower Pot.

Flowers are colorful and inviting, but sometimes the planters they're in can be a bit drab. If you want to spice up your home or garden, decorate your flower pots with paint, decoupage, or intricate mosaics. A chic planter can totally tie together your decor and show your personality!





1. Clean your flower pot. No matter what material your flower pot is made from, make sure the areas you want to paint are clean. Use soap and water if there is any lingering dirt or dust. A spotless surface will help your painting last.

Remove any stickers or price tags.

If you’re painting a terracotta pot, soak it in water for a few hours first. Scrub the entire thing with a stiff brush to get rid of dust or dirt. Wait 24 hours before painting, as terracotta is porous and will stay wet for a long time.

Allow your flower pot to dry completely before painting.



2. Choose acrylic paints in the colors of your choice. The color possibilities are pretty much endless, but make sure you use acrylic paints. Acrylic dries extremely quickly and is water-resistant when dry. It works on terracotta, clay, plastic, and ceramic.

Use spray paint or liquid paint, as long as it's acrylic. Spray paint is a faster option, but liquid will allow you to use brushes and get a detailed design.

If your planter will be staying outside, you can use an outdoor paint meant for withstanding weather.



3. Plan out your design. Take a look at your pot and decide what look you're going for. If your planter is going to be inside, think about what might look good with the color of your walls or floor. If it's going to be outside, think about what colors might pop in your yard or garden.

Use tape to segment off sections if you only want to paint certain parts.

Add words to label herb plants to offer little motivational phrases.

A pure white flower pot is a sleek, modern option.

Use stencils to creative intricate shapes.



4. Paint the first coat. There are no limits to what you can paint onto your flower pots, so let your creative juices flow! Use a large foam brush to put down a base coat. Choose a single color so you have a simple canvas to decorate further.

Put down newspaper or towels and wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty.

If you want to leave half of your pot unpainted, tape off that section.



5. Let your flower pot dry. A dry base coat will make sure the next application won't smudge or run. Be patient!

If you want a solid, single-color flower pot, it might be done already!



6. Apply a second layer of paint. Use foam brushes of all sizes to complete the look. Reapply the base coat if you want a more vivid color, otherwise go ahead and create your piece of art. Use whatever stencils, brushes, sponges, or freehand techniques you want.



7. Apply a clear sealer once your design is dry. When you’re happy with your new piece of art, it’s time to make sure everything stays in place. To prevent fading or chipping, apply at least two layers of clear, water based acrylic sealer. Get an acrylic sealer from your local craft store.

It may take a few days for the paint to dry if you used several coats of paint.

Using spray sealer is recommended, but you can also get cans of varnish and paint in on. This might leave brushstrokes behind.

Choose a matte or shiny finish depending on what you like.

Once protected, a painted design can last for years!



Tips.

If you’re using a terracotta planter, you may want to coat the inside with a sealer to keep moisture from seeping through and damaging your decorations.

If you don’t like how your paint job turned out, just paint over it!

Make sure everything is dry before you fill your flowerpot with dirt and a plant.



Warnings.

Wear gloves and safety glasses when shattering tiling or glass.

Protect your floor or tabletop from paint and glue with newspapers.





Things You'll Need.

Painting Your Flower Pot.

Clean flower pot.

Acrylic paints of assorted colors, spray or liquid.

Foam brushes of varying sizes.

Stencils.

Newspaper or towels.

Clear spray acrylic varnish, spray or liquid.

November 22, 2019

how to easy build a ballista

How to Build a Ballista.

If you like medieval weaponry capable of flinging arrows through the air, try building your own ballista. A ballista consists of a frame, a launch ramp with a slide, and a tensioned string. You can build all of these components with popsicle sticks, thread, and other basic supplies. Add a launch pin to create a small ballista that enables you fire bolts with a pull of a string.







Part 1 Assembling the Frame.



Drill holes through a pair of 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. Measure 1 in (2.5 cm) from the ends and mark the spots with a pencil. Before working on the sticks, lay down a piece of cardboard to protect your work surface from damage. Then, use a drill bit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter to create the holes.

The simplest way to create a ballista is with inexpensive popsicle sticks, available online, at craft supply store, and other areas.

If you wish to make a larger ballista, trying using larger pieces of wood or foam in place of the popsicle sticks.



Poke a second, smaller hole next to each of the bigger ones. Measure about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) along the stick’s length from one of the existing holes. Use a steel probe 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in diameter or a similar sharp tool to poke all the way through the wood. Position the hole so it’s slightly lower, closer to the edge of the stick, than the larger hole. Create a matching hole on the opposite end of the first stick and create corresponding holes on the second stick.

Each popsicle stick has 4 holes when you’re finished, a pair of holes on either end. The bigger holes are used to secure the ballista frame together, while the smaller holes are for the launcher.

To test the smaller holes, try squeezing a wood cocktail skewer through them. Get skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Widen the holes as needed to fit the skewers.



Cut a pair of wood blocks to 1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm). The easiest way to do this is to purchase wood crafting blocks. If you can’t find the exact size you need, cut the blocks to size with a crafting knife or another tool. Get blocks that are about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. Scrape away the excess wood until both blocks are the same size.

Shop online or visit a craft store to see what kind of wood blocks are available. You can use scrap wood if you wish, but crafting blocks are much smoother and easier to work with.

Be careful when using a crafting knife. The blocks are small, so it’s easy to slip while handling the blade. Work slowly to avoid potential accidents.

Image titled Build a Ballista Step 4

4

Glue the blocks to the ends of the popsicle sticks. Heat up a hot glue gun loaded with a fresh stick of white glue. Spread a layer of glue over the ends of the 1 of the sticks, then lay the blocks on top of that. Align the longer ends of each block with the edges of the popsicle stick. Spread another layer of glue on top of the wood blocks to secure the second popsicle stick.

Make sure you align the holes in the popsicle sticks before gluing them in place. The holes need to be positioned evenly over one another in order for the ballista launch its arrows later.







Part 2 Building and Attaching the Launch Ramp.



Cut about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) off the end of another popsicle stick. Trim this new stick to size by measuring and slicing it apart with your craft knife. Another safe way to do this is by snapping the end off with scissors or wire cutters. Trim any stray wood fibers off the cut end so it looks smooth and even.

Cutting popsicle sticks can be tricky since they are pretty fragile. Work slowly, gradually deepening the cut you make. Bend the popsicle stick back and forth along the groove you cut to prevent it from splintering.

If you have experience with wood cutting, try using a fine saw blade like a band saw. Always wear earmuffs, eye goggles, and a dust mask while operating a saw.



Trim a pair of cocktail skewers to 5 1⁄2 in (14 cm) in length. Get some wood skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Measure and mark the skewers as needed with a ruler and pencil. Then, cut the skewers evenly on both ends to trim off the sharp points. The skewers need to be the same length as the popsicle stick you cut, so use it for comparison.

Wood skewers are available online in addition to some craft stores, general stores, and restaurant supply stores.

Cut the skewers by using a craft knife or by snapping the ends off with wire cutters.



Glue the skewers to the top of the popsicle stick. Place the skewers on the long edges of the popsicle stick you cut. Lay down a bead of glue from a hot glue gun to secure the skewers in place. Trim the ends of the skewers as needed to smooth them out and make them even with the ends of the stick.

Now you have a basic launch ramp. The skewers form a groove for you to load the ballista’s ammunition.



Secure the ramp to the center of the frame you built. Get your popsicle stick frame with the holes drilled in it. Turn the ramp over and spread some hot glue on the end of it. Then, secure it over the bottom popsicle stick in the frame. Put it as close to the center of the frame as possible, aligning the end of the ramp with the back edge of the frame.

Hot glue dries relatively quickly, so you don’t need to worry too much about the frame and ramp components coming apart. Set the pieces aside as needed for 10 to 20 minutes to give the glue a chance to solidify. It takes about 24 hours to fully cure.







Part 3 Creating the Launcher Mechanism.



Break a 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle stick into halves. Divide the stick evenly into halves about 2 1⁄4 in (5.7 cm) long. These sticks are smaller than the frame pieces and are part of the ballista’s launching system. Use a craft knife or wire cutters to split the stick across its width and then smooth out the cut end.

Purchase a separate bag of smaller popsicle sticks online or at a craft store. Alternatively, cut smaller pieces of wood boards or foam if you’re making the ballista with those materials.



Poke a hole 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each stick. Use a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-thick steel probe or a similar tool sold at craft stores. Make a single hole near the rounded end, leaving the cut end alone. Pierce all the way through the wood.



Pull pieces of string through the larger holes in the frame. Getting the string through the holes is tricky, so have a cocktail skewer nearby to push it through. Slide both ends of a string 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter through the top hole, then through the respective hole in the bottom frame piece. Leave the string long enough to form small loops above and below the ballista frame.

Try using twine from a craft store for a strong material that isn’t likely to break when you’re having fun launching makeshift arrows.



Tie small skewers to the frame using the string loops. Cut a couple of wood skewers down to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length. Start with the top loop by placing a skewer inside of it and pulling the string tight. Then, tie the loose ends of the string into a knot with another skewer underneath it.

Lay the skewers flat against the frame pieces. Orient them so they’re perpendicular to the frame pieces. Then, tie the knots as tight as you can to hold the skewers in place.



Place the small popsicle sticks between the strings and tighten them. The popsicle sticks you cut earlier fit between the frame pieces. Slide about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of the cut ends of the sticks between the ropes. Then, twist the bottom skewers clockwise to tighten the string as much as possible.

When the small sticks are positioned correctly, you can move them back and forth without them sliding out of place. This is necessary for moving the ballista’s launcher to let arrows fly a long way.



Slide another skewer into each of the inner holes on the frame. Cut 2 more skewers to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length to fit those holes. Make them look nice and even like the other skewers before fitting them through the frame. Make sure the skewers go all the way through the respective holes on the top and bottom frame pieces.

Protect the strings by tying the ends to the bottoms of these skewers, if possible. If you do this, the skewers maintain the string’s tension, leading to much more impressive launches!



Tie a length of string between the launcher’s stick arms. Set the ballista so the back end is in front of you. Thread the 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string into the holes in the small popsicle sticks hanging from the ballista frame. Knot both ends of the string to secure it, then trim off the excess length.

The exact length of string you need to form the launcher depends on the material you used. Try threading the string through both holes before cutting it from the spool. Always cut it longer than you need so you can knot it tightly.







Part 4 Making the Slide and Supports.



Glue a block underneath the back end of the launch ramp. Get another 1.5 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood block. The block needs to be approximately the same width as the ramp in order to keep the ballista stable while you’re firing it. Set the ramp in the glue, aligning its back edge with the back end of the block.

Installing the block makes the ballista ramp slanted so it launches arrows higher into the air.



Cut grooves in a small block to create the ballista’s slider. Cut the grooves into a small piece of wood about 1.5 × 1 × 1⁄2 in (3.8 × 2.5 × 1.3 cm) in size. The launcher needs separate grooves in the front and back, both as thick as the string you used when tying the launcher arms together. Make the 2 grooves about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from either end. Use a crafting knife to scrape away the wood, making the grooves circular and about half as deep as the block.

Try making the slider out of a wood peg bought online or a craft store. If you use scrap wood, make sure it is solid and smooth so you can slide it along the ramp.



Create a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood cap to fit on top of the slider. Simply cut a smaller popsicle stick to the exact length and width as the slider. Cut the cap into a rectangle with no rounded edges. When you’re ready to install it, put the launcher string into the slider’s front groove. Spread some hot glue, then press the cap onto the top of the slider.

Test the cap out by putting it on the slider before you add the glue. Check that it’s big enough to cover the slider and pin the string in place.



Drill 45-degree angle holes in a block of wood. This block needs to be about 2 × 1 1⁄2 × 1⁄2 in (5.1 × 3.8 × 1.3 cm) longer than the one on the back end of the ballista. Position the holes about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the smaller sides of the block. Use a drill bit approximately 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide to drill diagonally towards the center of the block.

Drill all the way through the other side of the block. Keep the holes as even as possible to build a stable base for the ballista frame.



Fit wood dowels into the holes on the block. Use a pair of 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-thick dowels cut to about 4 in (10 cm) long. Slice them using a craft knife, wire cutters, or a saw if you have one. Then, put some hot glue on the ends of the dowels and push them as far into the holes as possible.

Look online or at a local craft supply store for the perfect dowels for your project.



Glue the block to the front side of the frame to stand the ballista up. Flip the block over and spread a thick bead of glue across its length. Lift up the front end of the ballista to stick the block to the bottom of the frame. After pressing the pieces firmly together, consider letting the glue dry for about 10 minutes.

If the block is wider than the frame, you could try whittling it down with a carving knife or craft knife. As long as your base is stable, doing this isn’t necessary, but it can make the ballista look a little neater.







Part 5 Completing the Firing Mechanism.



Glue long spacer pieces to the sides of the back block. Cut the spacer pieces so they are about 4 in × 1.5 in (10.2 cm × 3.8 cm) in size. Spread more hot glue, then press them against the block supporting the back end of the ramp. These parts are there to support the rest of the parts you need to add, so they don’t need to be pretty and can be longer than the block itself.

Make sure the spacer pieces stick out from underneath the ramp a little bit. The pieces that attach to them need to extend over the ramp or else you won’t be able to fire the ballista.



Cut 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) off the ends of a large popsicle stick. Measure and mark the length you need to cut on one of the 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. You need 2 of these pieces, so cut off both ends of the stick. Leave the rounded ends of the stick intact.

Cut the stick carefully with a craft knife, wire cutters, or saw. Work slowly to avoid splintering the wood and smooth out the edges as needed.



Make a hole about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each piece. Create the holes by poking a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe or a similar sharp tool through the wood. Keep the holes along the center part of the wood. Make them as even as possible to ensure the ballista parts line up appropriately when you install them.



Glue the popsicle ends to the side pieces on the block. The sticks need to be near the tail end of the block. Also, position the sticks about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) up from the bottom edge of the block. Spread glue over the wood and press them onto the block to hold them in place.

Make sure the ends of the sticks extend over the ramp. The holes need to be about level with the top edge of the slider in order to string the launch rope through it.



Bend a metal rod to fit through the holes in the wood. Get a metal rod about 4 in (10 cm) long and about 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in width to fit through the holes. Pull the launcher piece back and thread the rod through its second groove and the holes in the sticks. Then, use pliers to bend one end of the rod back over itself. The rod forms a launch pin that stays in place until you're ready to use it.

Test the pin by attempting to move it. If it feels loose, bend the end back on itself more to keep the pin in place. Leave the other end of the pin alone so it can slide out of the hole.



Tie a string to the end of the launch pin. Cut some 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string to complete the launching mechanism. Try trimming it to about 3 to 4 in (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in length. Knot the string a few times to the bent end of the launch pin to quickly pull it out when you wish to fire the ballista.

Keep the string at a comfortable length. If it is too long or short, you may have a hard time pulling out the pin in a quick, fluid motion.



Cut cocktail skewers to about 5 in (13 cm) for ammunition. Trim the pointed ends off of as many skewers as you wish to use. When you’re ready to use the ballista, put a single arrow on the chute after pulling the slide back. Yank the string to pull the metal pin out, causing the slide to spring forward, sending the arrow through the air.

Always cut the points off of the skewers to avoid accidents. Also, never shoot the arrows at others. They can hurt, especially from bigger launchers.







Tips.

Ballista arrows are reusable. Collect the arrows after you fire them to ensure you have a steady supply of ammunition.

Small ballista designs can be blown up to create big rigs capable of throwing arrows long distances. Many big ballistas use wood planks and thick rope like the kind available at hardware stores.



Warnings.

Firing a ballista can be dangerous. To be safe, clear an area outdoors and fire it when no one else is around.

If you choose to use a saw to cut components, follow proper safety procedures to avoid injuries. Always wear earmuffs, goggles, and a dust mask.



Things You’ll Need.

Ruler, Craft knife, Wire cutters or scissors.

6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks, 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle sticks.

1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood blocks, 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-diameter wood skewers, 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-diameter wood dowels.

1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit, Drill.

1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe, Hot glue stick, Hot glue gun.

7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string, 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-diameter metal rod.

November 20, 2019