Cows are a favorite barnyard animal among kids of all ages. If you want to make your own cow, there are many different ways to do it, so you can choose a craft based on the materials you have on hand.
Steps.
1. Paint the spool white. Cover all sides of a large wooden spool with white craft paint. Allow the paint to dry.
Note that the spool will be the body of the cow.
Since you need to paint the entire spool, separate the work into two steps so that the paint can dry properly. Paint the cylindrical side first, and after it dries, paint the top and bottom faces.
2 Add black blotches. Cover the cylindrical side of the spool with spots of black paint. Let the paint dry.
These spots should extend all the way around the body and should look like the spots on a cow.
To make the spots more realistic, give them rounded but uneven sides and try to avoid creating any patterns or symmetry when laying them out.
3. Trace the spool onto card stock. Place one flat, circular face of the spool on top of white card stock. Trace around this circle in pencil.
Cut out the resulting circle. You'll use it for the face of the cow.
Note that white felt or white craft foam could also work if you do not have white card stock.
4. Add detail to the face. Give the cow a pink snout, black nostrils, and two googly eyes.
To create the nose, begin by drawing a semi-circle over the bottom half of the card stock circle. Color in this semi-circle with pink marker or paint, then draw to small black ovals near the top edge of the semi-circle.
For the eyes, glue two googly craft eyes halfway between the snout and the top edge of the spool.
5. Cut out two ears. Draw two small leaf shapes on white card stock. Cut out both shapes for use as the cow's ears.
Keep the ears proportionate to the size of the face. Each one should be approximately the same size as one craft eye.
6. Add detail to the ears. Use pink marker to color in the center of each ear on one side of the paper.
The pink center should follow the basic shape of the overall ear outline, but it should only take up roughly one-half to three-quarters of the ear.
7. Cut two rectangles. Sketch out two rectangles in pencil, making each one long enough to wrap around the side of the spool once. Each should only be as wide as the width of one ear.
Cut out both rectangles when finished.
Each rectangle will turn into two legs. One will become both back legs and the other will become both front legs.
8. Add details to the legs. Color both tips of both rectangles in black marker. These black tips will become the cow's hooves.
9. Attach the paper pieces. Use craft glue to attach the face, ears, and legs to the spool. Let the glue dry before continuing.
Glue the face onto one flat end of the spool.
Position both ears over the top edge of the same end, gluing them in place behind the face.
Glue the center of one leg rectangle to the bottom of the cylindrical side, positioning it near the face end of the spool. Repeat with the other leg rectangle, putting it closer to the opposite end of the spool. Allow the ends of both rectangles to hang loose.
10. Attach a pipe cleaner tail. Clip a small piece of black pipe cleaner and use craft glue to attach it to the blank flat end of the spool. Let the glue dry.
The tail should be roughly one-half to three-quarters the length of the spool body.
11. Admire your work. The spool cow is finished and ready to show off.
If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.
Steps.
1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.
If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.
Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.
2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.
Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.
Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.
Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.
3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.
Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.
Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,
4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.
Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.
If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.
Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.
5. Keep on sorting.
Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.
Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.
6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.
Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.
For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.
7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.
8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.
9. Finished.
Tips.
Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.
Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.
Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.
Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.
Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.
Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.
Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.
Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.
Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.
Things You'll Need.
Craft supplies.
Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.
If you like medieval weaponry capable of flinging arrows through the air, try building your own ballista. A ballista consists of a frame, a launch ramp with a slide, and a tensioned string. You can build all of these components with popsicle sticks, thread, and other basic supplies. Add a launch pin to create a small ballista that enables you fire bolts with a pull of a string.
Part 1 Assembling the Frame.
Drill holes through a pair of 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. Measure 1 in (2.5 cm) from the ends and mark the spots with a pencil. Before working on the sticks, lay down a piece of cardboard to protect your work surface from damage. Then, use a drill bit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter to create the holes.
The simplest way to create a ballista is with inexpensive popsicle sticks, available online, at craft supply store, and other areas.
If you wish to make a larger ballista, trying using larger pieces of wood or foam in place of the popsicle sticks.
Poke a second, smaller hole next to each of the bigger ones. Measure about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) along the stick’s length from one of the existing holes. Use a steel probe 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in diameter or a similar sharp tool to poke all the way through the wood. Position the hole so it’s slightly lower, closer to the edge of the stick, than the larger hole. Create a matching hole on the opposite end of the first stick and create corresponding holes on the second stick.
Each popsicle stick has 4 holes when you’re finished, a pair of holes on either end. The bigger holes are used to secure the ballista frame together, while the smaller holes are for the launcher.
To test the smaller holes, try squeezing a wood cocktail skewer through them. Get skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Widen the holes as needed to fit the skewers.
Cut a pair of wood blocks to 1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm). The easiest way to do this is to purchase wood crafting blocks. If you can’t find the exact size you need, cut the blocks to size with a crafting knife or another tool. Get blocks that are about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. Scrape away the excess wood until both blocks are the same size.
Shop online or visit a craft store to see what kind of wood blocks are available. You can use scrap wood if you wish, but crafting blocks are much smoother and easier to work with.
Be careful when using a crafting knife. The blocks are small, so it’s easy to slip while handling the blade. Work slowly to avoid potential accidents.
Image titled Build a Ballista Step 4
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Glue the blocks to the ends of the popsicle sticks. Heat up a hot glue gun loaded with a fresh stick of white glue. Spread a layer of glue over the ends of the 1 of the sticks, then lay the blocks on top of that. Align the longer ends of each block with the edges of the popsicle stick. Spread another layer of glue on top of the wood blocks to secure the second popsicle stick.
Make sure you align the holes in the popsicle sticks before gluing them in place. The holes need to be positioned evenly over one another in order for the ballista launch its arrows later.
Part 2 Building and Attaching the Launch Ramp.
Cut about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) off the end of another popsicle stick. Trim this new stick to size by measuring and slicing it apart with your craft knife. Another safe way to do this is by snapping the end off with scissors or wire cutters. Trim any stray wood fibers off the cut end so it looks smooth and even.
Cutting popsicle sticks can be tricky since they are pretty fragile. Work slowly, gradually deepening the cut you make. Bend the popsicle stick back and forth along the groove you cut to prevent it from splintering.
If you have experience with wood cutting, try using a fine saw blade like a band saw. Always wear earmuffs, eye goggles, and a dust mask while operating a saw.
Trim a pair of cocktail skewers to 5 1⁄2 in (14 cm) in length. Get some wood skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Measure and mark the skewers as needed with a ruler and pencil. Then, cut the skewers evenly on both ends to trim off the sharp points. The skewers need to be the same length as the popsicle stick you cut, so use it for comparison.
Wood skewers are available online in addition to some craft stores, general stores, and restaurant supply stores.
Cut the skewers by using a craft knife or by snapping the ends off with wire cutters.
Glue the skewers to the top of the popsicle stick. Place the skewers on the long edges of the popsicle stick you cut. Lay down a bead of glue from a hot glue gun to secure the skewers in place. Trim the ends of the skewers as needed to smooth them out and make them even with the ends of the stick.
Now you have a basic launch ramp. The skewers form a groove for you to load the ballista’s ammunition.
Secure the ramp to the center of the frame you built. Get your popsicle stick frame with the holes drilled in it. Turn the ramp over and spread some hot glue on the end of it. Then, secure it over the bottom popsicle stick in the frame. Put it as close to the center of the frame as possible, aligning the end of the ramp with the back edge of the frame.
Hot glue dries relatively quickly, so you don’t need to worry too much about the frame and ramp components coming apart. Set the pieces aside as needed for 10 to 20 minutes to give the glue a chance to solidify. It takes about 24 hours to fully cure.
Part 3 Creating the Launcher Mechanism.
Break a 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle stick into halves. Divide the stick evenly into halves about 2 1⁄4 in (5.7 cm) long. These sticks are smaller than the frame pieces and are part of the ballista’s launching system. Use a craft knife or wire cutters to split the stick across its width and then smooth out the cut end.
Purchase a separate bag of smaller popsicle sticks online or at a craft store. Alternatively, cut smaller pieces of wood boards or foam if you’re making the ballista with those materials.
Poke a hole 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each stick. Use a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-thick steel probe or a similar tool sold at craft stores. Make a single hole near the rounded end, leaving the cut end alone. Pierce all the way through the wood.
Pull pieces of string through the larger holes in the frame. Getting the string through the holes is tricky, so have a cocktail skewer nearby to push it through. Slide both ends of a string 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter through the top hole, then through the respective hole in the bottom frame piece. Leave the string long enough to form small loops above and below the ballista frame.
Try using twine from a craft store for a strong material that isn’t likely to break when you’re having fun launching makeshift arrows.
Tie small skewers to the frame using the string loops. Cut a couple of wood skewers down to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length. Start with the top loop by placing a skewer inside of it and pulling the string tight. Then, tie the loose ends of the string into a knot with another skewer underneath it.
Lay the skewers flat against the frame pieces. Orient them so they’re perpendicular to the frame pieces. Then, tie the knots as tight as you can to hold the skewers in place.
Place the small popsicle sticks between the strings and tighten them. The popsicle sticks you cut earlier fit between the frame pieces. Slide about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of the cut ends of the sticks between the ropes. Then, twist the bottom skewers clockwise to tighten the string as much as possible.
When the small sticks are positioned correctly, you can move them back and forth without them sliding out of place. This is necessary for moving the ballista’s launcher to let arrows fly a long way.
Slide another skewer into each of the inner holes on the frame. Cut 2 more skewers to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length to fit those holes. Make them look nice and even like the other skewers before fitting them through the frame. Make sure the skewers go all the way through the respective holes on the top and bottom frame pieces.
Protect the strings by tying the ends to the bottoms of these skewers, if possible. If you do this, the skewers maintain the string’s tension, leading to much more impressive launches!
Tie a length of string between the launcher’s stick arms. Set the ballista so the back end is in front of you. Thread the 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string into the holes in the small popsicle sticks hanging from the ballista frame. Knot both ends of the string to secure it, then trim off the excess length.
The exact length of string you need to form the launcher depends on the material you used. Try threading the string through both holes before cutting it from the spool. Always cut it longer than you need so you can knot it tightly.
Part 4 Making the Slide and Supports.
Glue a block underneath the back end of the launch ramp. Get another 1.5 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood block. The block needs to be approximately the same width as the ramp in order to keep the ballista stable while you’re firing it. Set the ramp in the glue, aligning its back edge with the back end of the block.
Installing the block makes the ballista ramp slanted so it launches arrows higher into the air.
Cut grooves in a small block to create the ballista’s slider. Cut the grooves into a small piece of wood about 1.5 × 1 × 1⁄2 in (3.8 × 2.5 × 1.3 cm) in size. The launcher needs separate grooves in the front and back, both as thick as the string you used when tying the launcher arms together. Make the 2 grooves about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from either end. Use a crafting knife to scrape away the wood, making the grooves circular and about half as deep as the block.
Try making the slider out of a wood peg bought online or a craft store. If you use scrap wood, make sure it is solid and smooth so you can slide it along the ramp.
Create a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood cap to fit on top of the slider. Simply cut a smaller popsicle stick to the exact length and width as the slider. Cut the cap into a rectangle with no rounded edges. When you’re ready to install it, put the launcher string into the slider’s front groove. Spread some hot glue, then press the cap onto the top of the slider.
Test the cap out by putting it on the slider before you add the glue. Check that it’s big enough to cover the slider and pin the string in place.
Drill 45-degree angle holes in a block of wood. This block needs to be about 2 × 1 1⁄2 × 1⁄2 in (5.1 × 3.8 × 1.3 cm) longer than the one on the back end of the ballista. Position the holes about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the smaller sides of the block. Use a drill bit approximately 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide to drill diagonally towards the center of the block.
Drill all the way through the other side of the block. Keep the holes as even as possible to build a stable base for the ballista frame.
Fit wood dowels into the holes on the block. Use a pair of 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-thick dowels cut to about 4 in (10 cm) long. Slice them using a craft knife, wire cutters, or a saw if you have one. Then, put some hot glue on the ends of the dowels and push them as far into the holes as possible.
Look online or at a local craft supply store for the perfect dowels for your project.
Glue the block to the front side of the frame to stand the ballista up. Flip the block over and spread a thick bead of glue across its length. Lift up the front end of the ballista to stick the block to the bottom of the frame. After pressing the pieces firmly together, consider letting the glue dry for about 10 minutes.
If the block is wider than the frame, you could try whittling it down with a carving knife or craft knife. As long as your base is stable, doing this isn’t necessary, but it can make the ballista look a little neater.
Part 5 Completing the Firing Mechanism.
Glue long spacer pieces to the sides of the back block. Cut the spacer pieces so they are about 4 in × 1.5 in (10.2 cm × 3.8 cm) in size. Spread more hot glue, then press them against the block supporting the back end of the ramp. These parts are there to support the rest of the parts you need to add, so they don’t need to be pretty and can be longer than the block itself.
Make sure the spacer pieces stick out from underneath the ramp a little bit. The pieces that attach to them need to extend over the ramp or else you won’t be able to fire the ballista.
Cut 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) off the ends of a large popsicle stick. Measure and mark the length you need to cut on one of the 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. You need 2 of these pieces, so cut off both ends of the stick. Leave the rounded ends of the stick intact.
Cut the stick carefully with a craft knife, wire cutters, or saw. Work slowly to avoid splintering the wood and smooth out the edges as needed.
Make a hole about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each piece. Create the holes by poking a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe or a similar sharp tool through the wood. Keep the holes along the center part of the wood. Make them as even as possible to ensure the ballista parts line up appropriately when you install them.
Glue the popsicle ends to the side pieces on the block. The sticks need to be near the tail end of the block. Also, position the sticks about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) up from the bottom edge of the block. Spread glue over the wood and press them onto the block to hold them in place.
Make sure the ends of the sticks extend over the ramp. The holes need to be about level with the top edge of the slider in order to string the launch rope through it.
Bend a metal rod to fit through the holes in the wood. Get a metal rod about 4 in (10 cm) long and about 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in width to fit through the holes. Pull the launcher piece back and thread the rod through its second groove and the holes in the sticks. Then, use pliers to bend one end of the rod back over itself. The rod forms a launch pin that stays in place until you're ready to use it.
Test the pin by attempting to move it. If it feels loose, bend the end back on itself more to keep the pin in place. Leave the other end of the pin alone so it can slide out of the hole.
Tie a string to the end of the launch pin. Cut some 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string to complete the launching mechanism. Try trimming it to about 3 to 4 in (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in length. Knot the string a few times to the bent end of the launch pin to quickly pull it out when you wish to fire the ballista.
Keep the string at a comfortable length. If it is too long or short, you may have a hard time pulling out the pin in a quick, fluid motion.
Cut cocktail skewers to about 5 in (13 cm) for ammunition. Trim the pointed ends off of as many skewers as you wish to use. When you’re ready to use the ballista, put a single arrow on the chute after pulling the slide back. Yank the string to pull the metal pin out, causing the slide to spring forward, sending the arrow through the air.
Always cut the points off of the skewers to avoid accidents. Also, never shoot the arrows at others. They can hurt, especially from bigger launchers.
Tips.
Ballista arrows are reusable. Collect the arrows after you fire them to ensure you have a steady supply of ammunition.
Small ballista designs can be blown up to create big rigs capable of throwing arrows long distances. Many big ballistas use wood planks and thick rope like the kind available at hardware stores.
Warnings.
Firing a ballista can be dangerous. To be safe, clear an area outdoors and fire it when no one else is around.
If you choose to use a saw to cut components, follow proper safety procedures to avoid injuries. Always wear earmuffs, goggles, and a dust mask.
Things You’ll Need.
Ruler, Craft knife, Wire cutters or scissors.
6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks, 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle sticks.
1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood blocks, 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-diameter wood skewers, 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-diameter wood dowels.
1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit, Drill.
1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe, Hot glue stick, Hot glue gun.
7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string, 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-diameter metal rod.
There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!
Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.
1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.
2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.
3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.
4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.
If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.
5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.
6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.
7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.
8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.
9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.
Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.
Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.
10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.
11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.
12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.
13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.
14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.
15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.
Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.
If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.
16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.
17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.
Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.
1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.
Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!
2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.
If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.
3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.
4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.
5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.
6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.
7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.
If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.
8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.
9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.
Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.
If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.
10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.
11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.
Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.
Tips.
You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.
Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).
If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.
Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.
Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.
You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.
If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.
If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.
Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.
Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.
Warnings.
Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.
Things You'll Need
Making a Basic Penguin.
Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.
Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).
Making a Penguin Charm.
Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.
Papier-mâché eggs are both easy and fun to make. You can paint them bright colors and use them as Easter decorations, or you can paint them to look like real wild bird eggs and display them in your room. They do take a few days to dry, but they are a great, hands-on activity, which many children love. When you are finished, you can even fill them with candies, and crack them open later!
Method 1 Making Basic Eggs.
1. Blow up a balloon, tie the end into a knot, and set it down in a small cup. The cup will prevent the balloon from rolling away while you work.
2. Mix 2 parts white school glue with one part water in a small bowl. This will be your papier-mâché glue.
3. Tear some paper into small squares or rectangles. Newspaper works best, but you can also use plain newsprint paper from the craft store instead. Don't cut the paper; the ragged edges will help the paper seal together and give you a smoother finish.
Consider using both newspaper and tissue paper. This way, when you do multiple layers, you will be able to see which one you are working on.
Avoid using plain printer paper or construction paper. Both are too thick and too stiff for this project.
4. Dip a paper strip into the glue, and place it onto the balloon. Drag the strip across the edge of the bowl as you pull it out. This will remove any excess glue. Place it down near the top of the balloon. Use your fingers or a paintbrush to smooth the paper down so that it lays flat against the balloon.
5. Continue applying the paper strips until the balloon is completely covered. Overlap the strips slightly as you work from one end of the balloon to the other. Work your way from the top of the balloon all the way down to the tail end. Do not cover the tail, or you won't be able to remove the balloon.
6. Apply a second layer of paper. You don't have to dip these strips of paper into the glue. Simply stick them to the wet paper that's already on the balloon, and use your fingers or a paintbrush to smooth down the edges.
Consider using a tissue paper or plain newsprint for this layer. This way, you will be able to see what's cover and what isn't.
Two layers is ideal for eggs that you want to cut open. If you want a sturdier egg, apply a third layer. You may have to use some extra glue for this one.
7. Hang the balloon up to dry. Use a clothespin to clip the balloon to a hanger or clothesline. Wait for it to dry completely before moving on. It may take up to 2 or 3 days.
8. Pop and remove the balloon. Once the egg is completely dry, gently tug the balloon tail up so that you expose a bit of the balloon. Pierce it with a pin or pair of scissors and wait for the balloon to deflate. Once it is completely deflated, pull it out and discard it.
9. Cover the hole with 2 to 3 layers of paper and glue and wait for it to dry. Use the same technique as you did for the rest of your egg. If you wish to fill your egg, then do so before covering up the hole.
10. Paint the egg a solid color using acrylic or tempra paint and wait for it to dry. To make the paint really stand out, coat the entire egg using white primer and let it dry. Once you have your white base, you can paint your egg any color you want.
11. Add patterns to the eggs, if desired. Once your base color has dried, you can paint designs onto it. You can also draw designs using glitter glue or puffy paints instead.
Great Easter designs include: stripes, dots, and squiggles. Try to use soft, pastel colors.
12. Consider giving the eggs a final coating of gloss. Once all the paint has dried, spray or paint the eggs with a glossy sealer. You can even use a glittery sealer to give it some extra sparkle.This will help make them more durable.
If you'd like, you can cut the egg in half using jagged, zigzag lines so that it resembles a cracked open egg. When you are done, you can fill each half with fake grass, and place a little chick or bunny figure in each.
Things You'll Need : Water balloon, Newspaper, Paintbrush, Water, White school glue, Small cup, Scissors, Clothespin.
Method 2 Making Tissue Paper Eggs
1. Blow up a water balloon, tie the end into a knot, and set it down into a cup. The cup will hold the balloon sturdy while you work.
2. Pour some liquid starch or decoupage glue into a bowl. You can also mix your own glue by using 2 parts white school glue and 1 part water.
3. Cut the white tissue paper into 1½-inch (3.81 centimeters) squares and set it aside. This will make the base for your egg. One sheet will be enough to coat three eggs.
4. Cut the colored tissue paper into 1½-inch (3.81 centimeters) squares and set it aside. This will make the outside of your egg. You can make it all one color or many different colors. Some crafters have noted that lighter colored tissue paper, such as yellow, shows the layering and overlapping more.
To make polka dot eggs, punch a ¾-inch (1.91 centimeters) circle in the center of your square using a scrapbooking hole punch. Discard the circles, and use the squares so that you get white polkadots on your egg.
5. Start applying the base layer using the white tissue paper. Brush on some of your glue onto the balloon, and press a piece of white tissue paper onto it. Smooth it down with a brush dipped in more glue. Overlap the pieces as you cover the entire egg.
Start applying the tissue paper at the top of the balloon and work your way towards the tail. Don't cover the tail up.
6. Apply the colored layer. If the tissue paper on the balloon is already damp, you do not need to apply more glue. Simply press a piece of colored tissue paper onto it, and smooth it down with a little more glue. Remember to overlap the pieces by a little.
If you are making polka dotted eggs, be careful not to cover up the white polka dots!
7. Hang the balloon up to dry overnight. You can do this by clipping the tail of the balloon to a hanger or to a clothesline. This can take 2 to 3 days.
8. Pop and remove the balloon. Make sure that the balloon is completely dry, then gently tug on the balloon tail until you expose a bit of the balloon. Pierce the balloon with a pin or a pair of scissors. Wait for the balloon to deflate, then pull it out and discard it.
9. Fill the egg with candy, if desired. Small candies, such as chocolate eggs, work great! Be careful not to overfill the egg; it is still very fragile. If you do not wish to fill your egg, you can move onto the next step.
10. Cover the hole with 2 to 3 more layers of colored tissue paper. Use the same technique as you did when first covering the egg. Let the patch covering the hole dry before moving on.
Because these eggs are made from colorful tissue paper, they don't need to be painted. You can still decorate them, however, with glitter glue if you'd like.
11. Give the eggs away as gifts or use them as decorations. To open the eggs, simply tear them apart. They make great gifts for Easter baskets!
Things You'll Need : Water balloon, White tissue paper, Colorful tissue paper, Paintbrush, Liquid laundry starch or decoupage glue, Small cup, Scissors, Clothespin.
Question : Can I fill a paper mache creation with something to make it heavier?
Answer : Sure! Candy works well if you want it to be like a pinata.
Question : Which one is stronger?
Answer : Method 1 will give you a stronger, more durable result, as newspaper is thicker than tissue paper.
Question : Which method is better to create the eggs?
Answer : It depends on what you are looking for. The 1st method is better for making stronger eggs, for example, to put heavier objects in. However, the 2nd method is better if you want to put candy in, as they are much easier to open up, especially for children. If you're thinking of using them for decorations, method 2 would make for prettier, delicate decorations indoors, but method 1 is more advisable for outdoor decorations as the eggs will be more durable against the weather.
Tips.
For a vintage design, use newspaper and don't paint the eggs. Instead, give them a coat of glossy varnish.
You should tear newspaper and newsprint, but you don't have to tear tissue paper.
You can also do this project using regular balloons as well, but it will take more time to dry.
If the egg collapses when you remove the balloon, stick a pen, pencil, or chopstick into it and push the dents out as best you can.
Paint the egg to resemble real bird eggs. Look up pictures of interesting bird eggs online, and try to copy them as best you can. You can create speckles by splattering paint over the egg.
For something quick and easy, decorate your egg with stickers. If this is for Easter, use Easter themed stickers.
If you made your egg using newspaper and wish to paint it, add a layer of blank newsprint or white tissue paper. This way, the letters won't show through.
Decoupage shapes cut out of paper onto your finished egg instead of painting the designs.
Punch out shapes out of tissue paper using scrapbook punches, and press these shapes onto your egg while it is still wet.
Try printed paper that has patterns on it. Origami paper and printed tissue paper is great for this. Avoid using thick or glossy paper, such as gift wrap; it is too thick and stiff for this project.
Warnings.
Do not get impatient when it comes to drying. The papier-mâché must be completely dry before you remove the balloon. If you remove it too soon, the whole egg will collapse!
Making your own knight's helmet is simple and only requires a few materials. The base of your helmet will be made of poster board, but you can add any type of material onto the poster board that you'd like, such as foam or metallic paper. By cutting out a rectangle and teardrop shape before attaching the two together, you'll have created your basic helmet. After that, you can add details like plumes or visors to make your knight's helmet exactly how you'd like it.
Part 1 Creating the Basic Helmet.
1. Cut out a section of poster board that’s 10 by 28 in (25 by 71 cm) long. This will be the section of your helmet that wraps around your face and head. Lay the poster board flat on the table and use a ruler to mark a rectangle that’s 10 in (25 cm) wide and 28 in (71 cm) long. Use scissors to cut out this section of poster board.
Don't worry if the rectangle section is too long, you can trim it later on.
Purchase poster board from your local craft or big box store.
2. Apply paint to the poster board if you’re not adding additional layers. If your helmet is just going to be made of poster board, feel free to paint it a solid color like silver or gold. Use spray paint for a quick application, or use a paint brush and acrylic paints to paint the helmet section using even strokes.
Use two coats to ensure the poster board is fully covered.
Let the paint dry completely before continuing to work with the poster board. This should take 1-2 hours.
3. Fold the poster board in half crosswise. Fold the poster board horizontally instead of vertically so that it opens like a book. With the poster board folded in half, its new dimensions should be 10 in (25 cm) by 14 in (36 cm). Once the poster board has an even crease, unfold it and lay it flat again.
4. Attach additional material to the helmet if desired. If you’re putting foam or colored paper on your helmet to make it textured or colorful, use an adhesive like glue or tape to attach the material to the poster board. Make sure you don’t cover up the fold you just created, lining up the paper or foam with the fold before attaching it.
Flip the poster board over so that any excess foam or paper is visible, cutting it off using scissors so the poster board and additional materials are in line with each other.
5. Form the top of the helmet in the shape of a teardrop. The top of the helmet is made by drawing a circle slightly larger than your head onto a piece of poster board (and any other materials you’re using with the poster board). Once the circle is drawn, make a dot a few inches away from the circle, connecting it to the circle using a ruler so that the shape now resembles a teardrop.
You can find templates online for the top of the helmet to make creating it easier.
Consider creating a double layer of poster board to make the top sturdier.
Use a plate to help you draw a perfect circle, if desired.
6. Create a slit in the helmet for the eyes. Hold the rectangle section of the helmet up to your face with the fold at your nose, figuring out where the eyes would go. Measure a rectangle that’s roughly 5 in (13 cm) wide and 4 in (10 cm) high—this will be your eye slit. Use scissors or a precision blade to remove the eye portion from the large rectangle.
Make sure the center of your eye slit is lined up with the fold in the helmet.
7. Tape the sides of the helmet together so it’s whole. Join the two ends of the rectangle together, putting it on your head or the other person’s head to see where you’ll need to attach it. Use tape or a stapler to hold the two ends together.
To hide the tape, put it on the inside of the helmet.
Masking tape or duct tape works best.
8. Slide the top section into the helmet to attach it. Rest the sides of the helmet on the table so it’s sitting up straight. Slide the top section of the helmet into the sides, lining the tip of the teardrop shape with the fold in the rectangle. Push it down until the top of the helmet is touching the table. This will make it easy to hot glue or tape the two pieces together from the inside.
If the top section is too big to fit into the helmet’s sides, trim it using scissors.
If the top section is too small for the helmet's sides, you can either redo it and make it larger, or use a thick tape to attach it to the helmet's sides anyway.
Be careful if you’re using hot glue, making sure not to touch the metal tip of the glue gun.
Part 2 Adding Embellishments.
1. Create a visor for your helmet for a movable portion. Draw your visor in any shape you’d like, making sure it has slits wide enough for you to see out of. Make your visor at least 5 in (13 cm) long so it covers the entire eye slit already cut out in your helmet, and fasten it to your helmet using paper fasteners.
Look online for visor templates that you just print and cut out, if desired.
2. Add a feather to your helmet to create a plume. Choose a feather that’s long and large in any color you’d like. Create a hole in the top of your helmet, picking a spot near the edge of the helmet so that it doesn’t poke the person who’s wearing it in the head. Use a knife or sharp pen to form the hole before sticking the feather inside and gluing it in place.
Feel free to add more than one feather to the helmet, or glue or tape several feathers together to create a larger plume.
You can find feathers at your local craft or big box store.
3. Cut strips of craft foam to add detail along the edges of your helmet. Measure strips of craft foam to be roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) thick. Cut each strip out and use glue to attach the strips around the edges of the helmet. This makes the helmet look more official and detailed.
Use colored craft foam to give your helmet more personality, or paint your foam gold or silver to match your helmet.
4. Draw a coat of arms or another object on your helmet to personalize it. Use a marker to draw designs on your helmet or a symbol such as a coat of arms. Look online for inspiration for different coats of arms to draw and draw them in pencil first, if possible, in case you mess up and need to erase.
Use a black marker to add details to your helmet, or use lots of different colors to make your helmet stand out.
Pencil may not show up on foam, but you can always print out a template of something you'd like to draw and trace it using pen.
Do you wish you could have your very own phone? All you have to do is follow these steps to learn how to make your own tin can and string (or cup and string) telephone. This craft also makes for a good science project to learn about how sound travels.
Steps.
1. Get a piece of string and two empty cans (preferably soup cans). If you don't have cans or you don't want to work with them, you can also use cups (preferably plastic),such as the ones shown here. Plastic is a little easier to work with than metal. Styrofoam cups do not work well because they are soft and spongy and absorb sound instead of transmitting it. In a pinch, you can use disposable paper cups, but plastic and metal take more wear-and-tear.
2. Punch a hole at the bottom of each can just small enough for string to fit through. You might need your parents or teacher to help with this. You can make the hole with a drill, hammer and a nail, or some other sharp, pointed tool. If you are using plastic cups, you can probably just poke a hole with a push pin or any other sharp point. Make the holes only large enough to put the string through and no larger.
3. Pass the string through the hole and into the bottom of one can or cup. It might help to push the string through with the end of a paper clip or thread it through with a bit of wire.
4. Tie a knot in the end of the string that is inside the cup. When you're done, pull the string tight so the knot rests in the bottom of the can. You can tie the string around a little piece of a toothpick if you can't get it to stay with just a knot.
5. Place the untied end of the string through the bottom of the other can or cup. Tie a knot, as before, and pull the string tight.
6. Get a partner.
7. Place the open end of one can over your ear and have your partner speak into the open end of the other can. Make the string as tight as you can. If you've made it correctly, you should hear your friend speak, even if it is a long piece of string. Then, talk while your friend listens.
Tips.
You can hear your partner better if the string is tighter.
Using fishing wire instead of string helps sound travel a lot better.
Can you make "phone calls" around corners? Try it and see.
Check your sound by speaking and having your friend speak both into and outside of the phone. Does it sound different speaking through the phone?
Decorate and customize your cups to be more exciting.
Use a paper clip to make phone line better so that it can vibrate more. And also make sure that the string is straight. If it is not, pull hard but not too hard to snap. If it snaps, tie a knot together to work again.
Try a three-way call (two strings from one can).
You can decorate it like a real cell phone, if you want.
Get 2 tin cans and a piece of string and stick the string on the ends of the tins and it is done!
Warnings.
Try to use cans that do not have a sharp edge where the lid of the can was removed.
Cows are a favorite barnyard animal among kids of all ages. If you want to make your own cow, there are many different ways to do it, so you can choose a craft based on the materials you have on hand.
Steps.
1. Cut up the cardboard tubes. You can start with two empty toilet paper rolls or one empty paper towel roll.
If you use the paper towel roll, cut it in half. Refer to each half as a separate roll for the remainder of the instructions.
Cut one of the rolls in half. Save one half for use as the cow's head and discard the other half.
Cut 1 inch (2.5 cm) off one end of the other roll. This roll will become the body of the cow. Discard the excess 1 inch (2.5 cm).
2. Create ear slits. Using pencil, lightly sketch two ovals onto one end of the head piece, positioning them on opposite sides of the cylindrical perimeter.
These ovals will become ears. Each one should be about one-quarter the length of the tube.
Carefully cut along three-quarters of each oval outline, leaving the innermost end of each oval alone. Fold up the cut portions so that they stick out from the sides of the tube, creating ears.
3. Snip and fold horn slits. Draw two small triangles near one end of the tube, centering them in between both ears.
These triangles will become horns. They should be smaller than half the size of one ear.
Carefully cut along two edges of each triangle, leaving the innermost edge alone. Fold up the cut portions so that they stick out from the side of the tube, creating horns.
4. Cut out two egg carton sections. Cut two compartments out of an empty egg carton. Discard the rest of the carton.
These two sections will become the legs of your cow. One section will form both front legs and the other will form both back legs.
Carefully cut out the front and back of both sections, leaving the sides and bottoms intact.
5. Paint everything white. Paint both cardboard tubes and both egg carton sections white. Allow the paint to dry.
You should paint both sides of the ear slits, but you do not need to paint the horn slits at this time.
6. Add black spots. Use black paint to add spots to the head and body of the cow. Let the paint dry when finished.
To create realistic spots, paint spots with uneven sides. Avoid sharp points, opting for rounded corners instead.
Note that you should also space the spots apart in uneven intervals instead of creating patterns or symmetry.
7. Define the ears and horns. Paint a small pink oval in the front side of each ear. Paint both sides of each horn gray. Let the paint dry.
The pink inner ear should follow the outline of the ear slit, but you should leave some blank white space around the edge of each center.
8. Attach the eyes. Using craft glue, adhere two googly craft eyes onto the face. Allow the glue to dry completely.
Both eyes should lie just in front of the ears along the length of the head. Place each eye in between one horn and one ear along the width (perimeter) of the head.
9. Glue the pieces together. Glue both egg carton pieces onto the same side of the body roll. Glue the head onto the opposite side of the body roll.
Turn both carton sections upside-down so that the flat bottoms become the tops. Place one section near the front of the body and the other section near the back.
With the cow standing on its egg carton feet, glue the back half of the head onto the top of the body.
10. Stuff the rolls with cotton. Once everything dries, stuff cotton balls into both open cardboard rolls.
Use enough cotton to tightly back both rolls. If you pack it tightly enough, you should not need to use glue to hold the cotton in place.
11. Attach the mouth. Cut a small piece of pink pipe cleaner out and glue it to the cotton at the front of the face.
The pink pipe cleaner should roughly match the diameter of the cardboard tube.
Bend the pipe cleaner into a slight curve to give the cow a smile.
Use glue to attach the pipe cleaner to the bottom half of the cotton at the front of the face.
12. Add a tail. Cut a small length of white yarn. Use glue to attach one end to the top of the cardboard body at the back of the cow.
The tail should be at least as long as the diameter of the tube, if not a little longer.
13. Observe your work. The cardboard cow is finished and ready to admire.
Things You'll Need.
2 empty toilet paper rolls OR 1 empty paper towel roll,Empty egg carton,Pencil,Scissors,White paint,Black paint,Pink paint,Paintbrush,Cotton balls,Glue,2 googly craft eyes,Pink pipe cleaner,White yarn,
Small teddy bears dipped in scented candle wax are popular craft items. Make wax-dipped bears for yourself or as gifts for adults. They may also sell well at craft and hobby shows.
Steps.
1. Place 1 pound of wax in a slow cooker. Set the temperature of the cooker on low to medium. Use a cooking thermometer to measure the temperature until it reaches about 180 degrees Fahrenheit (82 C). One pound of wax will typically cover 2 small bears or 1 medium-sized bear.
Add glitter to the wax before dipping the bear if you want it to sparkle.
2. Add a few drops of liquid candle scent to the melted wax. Stir the wax with tongs. Add more scent if you prefer a strongly scented bear. Rather than add scent, you can also use pre-scented soy wax if you prefer.
3. Put on a pair of rubber gloves. Handle tongs, the cooker and the bear with gloved hands.
4. Use tongs to dip a bear into the wax. Turn the bear until it is completely covered with wax.
5. Lift the bear from the wax with tongs. Hold it over the slow cooker to allow excess wax to drip off.
6. Hold the bear with the tongs until the wax is cool enough to not burn your hands through the gloves. Squeeze the excess wax from the bear, letting it drip into the cooker.
7. Use a wire bristle comb to fluff the fur on the bear. Pull the fur outward with the comb so it looks natural instead of matted down in the wax. Work quickly so the wax doesn't set before the bear is completely fluffed.
8. Set the bear on a cookie sheet until the wax cools and sets.
9. Add embellishments like a ribbon bow around the neck or ears.
10. Tie a printed tag to the wax-coated bear. Include a greeting or tips on how to care for the wax-coated bear.
11. Wrap the bear in cellophane to preserve the scent if you are giving it as a gift or selling it at a craft show. Store finished bears separately in plastic bags to keep them from sticking together.
12. Finished.
Tips.
Blow a heated hair dryer over the bear to restore its scent when it fades.
Use jointed bears if you wish to pose the bear's arms and legs.
Warnings.
Set wax-dipped bears on a saucer or coaster. The wax will damage wood and some types of counter-top surfaces.
Do not treat a waxed bear like a candle. Never add a wick or attempt to burn the bear. Keep waxed bears away from heat sources and lit candles.
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Glue a sheet of green construction paper to a piece of thin cardboard. This will make your dinosaur nice and sturdy. If you don’t have any green construction paper, paint the cardboard with green acrylics or poster paint. Let the glue or paint dry before moving on.
The thin cardboard from cereal and snack boxes works great for this!
If you don’t have thin cardboard or construction paper, try green cardstock instead. You can also use poster paper, but you’ll need to paint it.
2. Draw and cut the body, head, tail, and leg shapes from the paper. Look up coloring book or cartoon pictures of long-necked dinosaurs, then break it down into separate body parts. Draw these separately with a pen or pencil, then cut them out. Here are the basic shapes you’ll need.
A long stem with an oval-shaped head, like a brontosaurus or apatosaurus.
A long, tapering tail, like a skinny triangle.
2 rectangular legs.
A mound- or lump- shaped body, like a semicircle but with rounded bottom corners.
3. Make spikes for the dino's back using paper and cardboard if desired. Glue the paper to the cardboard first (or paint the cardboard). Let the paint or glue dry, then draw 4 to 5 triangular spikes. Cut them out, then set them aside.
Use a different color of paint or paper for this. Orange is a great choice, but a lighter or darker shade of green will also work.
You can also make smaller rectangles for nails.
4. Use a pen to poke a hole in the ends of each limb. Make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) away from the center of each edge. A pen or pencil will work just fine for a cardstock dino, but if you used thin cardboard, use a nail to make the holes instead.
You’ll need holes in the following areas: base of the neck, base of the tail, and the top of each leg.
Don’t use a hole punch. The hole will be too big and the brad will fall through.
If you're a child, ask an adult to help you with this step, especially if you're using a nail.
5. Poke 4 holes in the body so that you can secure the limbs. Make 2 holes along the wider, flatter, bottom edge of the body. Poke another set of holes on the sides of the body for the tail and legs. As with the limbs, make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) from the edges.
Don’t poke the neck and tail holes too close to the top; make them closer to the bottom so that your dinosaur has a humped back.
Don’t place the legs too close together. Keep them closer to the bottom corners of the body.
6. Use brads to secure the limbs behind the dinosaur's body. Stick a brad through the front of the neck hole on the body. Slide the neck piece onto the back of the prong, behind the body. Pry open the back of the brad, then press the prongs flat against the back of the dinosaur.
Repeat this step for the tail and both legs. Always add the limbs to the back of the body, not the front.
Make sure that the limbs are facing up as well, otherwise your dinosaur won’t match!
Brad prongs can hurt if they get under your nail. Consider using a butter knife to pry them apart.
7. Glue the spikes to the back of the dinosaur. Flip the dinosaur over so that you can see the back. Draw a line of glue along its back, then add the triangular spikes. Make sure that the flat bases are touching the dinosaur's back while the pointy tips are sticking out.
If you made nails for the dino, glue them to the bottom of each leg.
White school glue and glue sticks will work just fine for this. Hot glue is not recommended because it's too bulky.
8. Give the dinosaur a face. Here is where you can get a little creative. For a simple dinosaur, use a black marker to draw an eye and mouth. For a fancier dinosaur, use hot glue or white school glue to attach a googly eye to the dinosaur's face.
Give your dinosaur more character by adding eyebrows or eyelashes.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
Green construction paper, Orange construction paper, Glue stick, Thin cardboard, 4 brads, Pen or nail, Scissors, White school glue (optional), Googly eye (optional).
A toy that says "eye love my cat". This eyeball toy is easy to crochet and will prove very entertaining for your cat.
Skill level: Intermediate
Steps.
1. Note that the pattern is worked continuously without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.
2. Commence crocheting. With black, ch 2.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc.
Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc.
3. Change to Iris Color.
Rnd 3. Sc in blo of first sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 18 sc.
Rnd 4. Sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc.
Rnd 5. Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 30 sc.
Rnd 6. Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 36 sc.
4. Change to white.
Rnd 7. Sc in blo of first 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 42 sc.
Rnds 8 - 14. Sc in ea sc around.
Rnd 15. Dec 1 in first 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, *dec 1 in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, rep from * around. 36 sc.
Rnd 16. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, rep from * around. 30 sc.
Rnd 17. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around. 24 sc.
Rnd 18. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around. 18 sc.
Rnd 19.' Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around. 12 sc.
5. Stuff the toy.
6. Complete Rnd 20. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc in rnd. Do not finish off; 6 sc.
7. Finish. Ch 3. Keep the loop of yarn on the crochet hook and pull it taut. Do not remove the hook! Hold the three feathers flat against the ch-3 chain, with the tips of the feathers pointing toward the eyeball.
8. Tape the feathers around the ch-3 chain to keep them in place, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the stems of the feathers extending above the tape. Then, still keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, take the free end of the yarn and wrap it tightly around the stem of the feathers, covering the tape and working from top to bottom.
9. Fold the stems of the feathers down over the section that was just wrapped in yarn and tape in place again. Once again, keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, wrap the free end of yarn tightly around the tape, this time working from bottom to top.
10. When the entire taped section is wrapped in yarn, begin with the loop still left on the crochet hook and work 36 ch as usual. Then remove the crochet hook from the last chain and thread the loop through the holes in the jingle bells (you may need to pull the loop to make it long enough to thread through the bells, but take care not to rip out the entire ch-36 chain).
11. Reinsert the hook into the loop and sl st in the first ch of the ch-36. Finish off. Weave in all ends. If desired, brush a coat of non-toxic white craft glue around the wrapped, taped ends of the feathers to prevent unraveling. Allow to dry completely overnight.
12. Finished.
Tips.
Finished size: About 3 inches (7.6 cm) in diameter.
Abbreviations:
blo = back loops only, ch = chain, dec = decrease, ea = each, mm = millimeter, rep = repeat.
rnd = round, rnds = rounds, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, yd = yard.
A toy that says "eye love my cat". This eyeball toy is easy to crochet and will prove very entertaining for your cat.
Skill level: Intermediate
Steps.
1. Note that the pattern is worked continuously without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.
2. Commence crocheting. With black, ch 2.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc.
Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc.
3. Change to Iris Color.
Rnd 3. Sc in blo of first sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 18 sc.
Rnd 4. Sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc.
Rnd 5. Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 30 sc.
Rnd 6. Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 36 sc.
4. Change to white.
Rnd 7. Sc in blo of first 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 42 sc.
Rnds 8 - 14. Sc in ea sc around.
Rnd 15. Dec 1 in first 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, *dec 1 in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, rep from * around. 36 sc.
Rnd 16. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, rep from * around. 30 sc.
Rnd 17. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around. 24 sc.
Rnd 18. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around. 18 sc.
Rnd 19.' Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around. 12 sc.
5. Stuff the toy.
6. Complete Rnd 20. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc in rnd. Do not finish off; 6 sc.
7. Finish. Ch 3. Keep the loop of yarn on the crochet hook and pull it taut. Do not remove the hook! Hold the three feathers flat against the ch-3 chain, with the tips of the feathers pointing toward the eyeball.
8. Tape the feathers around the ch-3 chain to keep them in place, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the stems of the feathers extending above the tape. Then, still keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, take the free end of the yarn and wrap it tightly around the stem of the feathers, covering the tape and working from top to bottom.
9. Fold the stems of the feathers down over the section that was just wrapped in yarn and tape in place again. Once again, keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, wrap the free end of yarn tightly around the tape, this time working from bottom to top.
10. When the entire taped section is wrapped in yarn, begin with the loop still left on the crochet hook and work 36 ch as usual. Then remove the crochet hook from the last chain and thread the loop through the holes in the jingle bells (you may need to pull the loop to make it long enough to thread through the bells, but take care not to rip out the entire ch-36 chain).
11. Reinsert the hook into the loop and sl st in the first ch of the ch-36. Finish off. Weave in all ends. If desired, brush a coat of non-toxic white craft glue around the wrapped, taped ends of the feathers to prevent unraveling. Allow to dry completely overnight.
12. Finished.
Tips.
Finished size: About 3 inches (7.6 cm) in diameter.
A Jack in the Box is a fun toy that's been around for hundreds of years. While it may seem complex, a Jack in the Box actually works with very simple mechanics. Making your own can be a fun arts and crafts activity. With some cardboard, glue, magnets, a spring, and a few other parts, you can make your very own Jack in the Box.
Part 1 Constructing the Box.
Find a sturdy piece of cardboard. You'll need a thick and sturdy piece of cardboard for the box to support itself. The kind from a large packing box should work well.
You'll be cutting out 6 squares that are each 6" x 6" (15 cm x 15 cm), so your piece of cardboard will need to be at least 18" x 12" (45 cm x 30). If you can't find a piece that big, then several pieces will work fine too.
Draw six 6" X 6" (15 cm x 15 cm) boxes on the piece of cardboard. These six squares will form the walls, floor, and lid of your Jack in the Box. Use a ruler to measure and make sure your lines are straight.
Make sure you use a dark pen or marker. Otherwise, you may not be able to see your lines when you cut.
Cut out each box. Use a pair of sharp scissors or a box cutter. Carefully cut along the lines you drew so the cardboard squares are the right size. If you're using a box cutter, make sure the cardboard is placed on a solid surface.
Wear gloves during this step to prevent paper cuts or any injuries for the scissors or box cutter.
Glue 4 of the squares together, making a cube with no top or bottom. Hot glue is the best choice for this step. White glue won't be strong enough to keep the box together. This forms the outside structure of the box.
Glue the edges of the cardboard together to form the cube. If the glue doesn't seem to be making a strong seal, you can use strips of tape to secure the cube while the glue hardens.
Glue another square to the bottom of the cube. Line up the square perfectly with the rest of the cube or your box will be uneven. This will form the floor of the box.
Lay the square down flat and put glue around the edge. Then slowly lower the box onto the square, making sure the glue makes contact with all edges of the box.
Make a hinge with the final square. Don't glue the final square to the box, or your Jack in the Box won't open. Instead, rest the square on top of the box, making sure to line up all the sides. Then, use a strip of tape to fasten one side of the square to the box. This will form a simple hinge that allows your box to open.
Clear tape is the best choice here. Colored tape might throw off your designs when you decorate your box later on.
Part 2 Sealing the Box.
Find 2 small magnets. There are lots of ways you could make the seal for your box, but a simple method uses magnets. Start by finding 2 magnets. These should be square or circle and small, not more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) long.
Craft or hardware stores usually have small magnets that are meant to hold boxes or cabinets closed. Looking for these should give you a good start.
Remember to find out which sides of the magnets attract each other. Those are the two sides you'll line up when making your seal.
Glue one magnet to the bottom of the box's lid. This should be on the opposite side where you placed the tape. On the edge of the lid and in the center, glue the first magnet.
Glue another magnet directly under the first magnet. The next magnet should be placed on the inside wall of the box so the two magnets touch each other when the lid is closed. In this position, they will attract each other and keep the box sealed.
To find the right position for the second magnet, start by closing the box slowly. This way you'll be able to see where the magnet will rest when the box is sealed. The best place for the second magnet is right under that point, so the two magnets touch when the lid is closed.
Test out your seal. See if your seal is holding after you glue both magnets. Pull up slightly to see how tight the seal is. Flip the box upside down and see if it holds.
Part 3 Making the Spring Puppet.
Glue a compression spring to the bottom of the box. Draw a circle in the middle of the box's floor to see where you'll place the spring. Then put glue on the bottom of the spring and place it over the circle you drew. Hold the spring down for a few seconds to make sure the glue seals.
Compression springs come in lots of sizes. For this project, you'll want one that's slightly taller than the box, or about 7 inches (18 cm). Your local craft store should have plenty of options.
Test the seal by making sure the box stays closed when the spring is in place. If the box doesn't stay closed, your spring is too big or your seal is too loose.
Put a sock puppet on the spring. Your Jack in the Box needs a character to pop out! A sock puppet is perfect because it can fit snugly over the spring.
You could also draw and cut out a simple face from a piece of paper and glue it to the top of the spring for a simpler design.
Test your box. With all the pieces in place, it's time to make sure your box is working! Put it on a table and lift up the lid. Your puppet should pop out of the box when you do this.
Decorate your box. Now that your box is complete, you can decorate it however you want! Use markers to draw on its sides, glue sparkly paper over it, cover it with stickers--use your imagination!
Tips.
Remember to let all glue dry before you move on. Wait a few minutes after you glue pieces together to make sure the glue holds or your box could warp as you work.
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Fold and cut a plain white paper plate in half with scissors. Fold the plate in half first, then use the crease as a cutting guide. For best results, use the kind that's made from cardstock and has a frilled edge, rather than the kind that's made from thick cardboard with a rim.
Set aside 1 of the paper plate halves; this will make the body.
2. Cut a dino head, tail, and spikes from the other paper plate half. Draw the shapes on the second paper plate half (the other one will be the body), then cut them out. Make sure that the limbs are proportionate to the body. Don't worry about the feet; you will be using toilet paper rolls for that.
Make the spikes about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall and wide.
Make the tail about 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wide at the base, and about 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the paper plate.
If you don't know how to draw a dinosaur head, tail, or spikes, look at pictures of cartoon dinosaurs online or in coloring books.
Use the brim to make the neck, if desired. Cut it off first so that you get a C-shape, then cut it in half. Use 1 of these halves to make the neck.
3. Glue the cut shapes to the other paper plate half. The straight edge of the plate is the bottom of the dinosaur, while the curved side is the back. Glue the tail to 1 end and the neck and/or head to the other. If you made spikes, glue them down the dinosaur's back.
4. Use scissors to cut an empty toilet paper roll into thirds. Keep 2 of the segments and discard the third. This will give you rings that are a little over 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. If you don't have any empty toilet paper rolls, you can use an empty paper towel roll instead.
If you're using an empty paper towel roll, cut 2 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) segments from it.
5. Cut a set of slits into the top of each toilet paper ring. You will be sliding the dinosaur's body into these slits, so make sure that they are directly across from each other. The easiest way to do this would be to squish the rings in half, then cut a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) long slit into each one.
6. Slide the dinosaur into the slits. Take the first roll, and turn it so that 1 slit is facing the dinosaur's head and the other is facing its tail. Slide the bottom edge of the dinosaur's body into the slit. Repeat this process for the other leg.
Slide the legs apart until they are on opposite sides of the plate.
7. Paint the dinosaur, then let it dry. Acrylic craft paints will work great for this, but you can also use poster paint too! Use the same colors and patterns for both the front and back. How long it will take for the paint to dry depends on what you are using. Expect to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.
You can take the dinosaur's body off of its feet in order to paint it. Do the front first, let it dry, then do the back.
Don't forget to paint the eyes and mouth! Alternatively, you can glue on some googly eyes after the paint has dried.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
White paper plate, Empty toilet paper roll, Scissors, Green acrylic paint or poster paint, Glue stick or white school glue.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. This is a simple snake that you can make out of a paper plate. It lays flat on your table, but springs up into a long snake when you hang it! Here's a list of what you will need:
Paper plate, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, spongers, etc, Pencil or pen, Scissors, Crayons, markers, or googly eyes.
Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, String, thumbtack, hole punch (optional), Rhinestones, glitter, etc (optional).
2. Cut off the raised edge of a paper plate. Be sure not to go too far into the middle or else it may not be big enough.
If you don't have a paper plate, use a small plate to trace a circle onto a large sheet of paper. Cut the circle out using a pair of scissors, and use that circle instead.
3. Paint or decorate the paper plate. You can paint the snake however you want. You can use a paintbrush, a sponge, or even your fingers. Snakes come in many different colors and patterns. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Paint the plate a solid color and let the paint dry. Next, dip a sponge into a different color and tap the excess paint off onto a paper towel. Then, dab the sponge all over the plate. If you want to add another color, wait for the first one to dry. This will give you a scale-like effect.
Wrap a sheet of bubble wrap (bubble-side-out) around a rolling pin and secure it with tape. Pour two colors of paint onto a palette and gently roll the pin across. Next, roll the pin across the plate. You will get a scale effect.
You can also color the other side of the plate to make the snake's belly. Most snakes have a plain, light colored belly. Do this once the top of the snake dries.
4. Draw a spiral on the back of the plate. Make the spiral about half an inch thick. It doesn't have to be perfect, but try to make it even all the way around. The center of the spiral will be the snake's head, so make it rounded.
You are drawing the spiral on the back so that you won't see it on the top.
5. Cut out the spiral shape. Start front the outside of the spiral, and work your way in. Try to do this right on the line, because you don't want the line to show on the finished product.
6. Add more decorations to the snake. At this point, you can paint on some extra designs to make your snake even more special. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Paint thick stripes across the spiral to make a striped snake, Paint Xs or diamond shapes across the spiral to make a diamond pattern.
Glue some colorful rhinestones using white school glue or tacky glue. Try not to add too many, or your snake will be too heavy.
Make some squiggles and patterns on the snake using white glue. Then, shake some glitter onto the glue. Tap off the excess glitter and let the glue dry.
7. Add the eyes onto the front of the head. You can draw the eyes on using a marker or crayons. You can also paint the eyes on. If you have googly eyes at home, you can glue them on using white school glue or tacky glue.
Remember, the head is the rounded part in the middle of the spiral.
8. Add the tongue. Cut a thin 1 to 2 inch (2.54 to 5.08) long rectangle out of red paper. You can also use a piece of thin, red ribbon. Cut a V shape into one end of the rectangle. This will be the snake's forked tongue. Lift the head up and glue the tongue under it.
9. Punch a hole through the snake if you want to hang it. You can punch the hole at the end of the tail, right between the eyes, or even in the tongue. Thread a piece of string through the hole and tie it in a knot. Use the other end of the string to hang the snake from a door knob, a stick, or even a thumbtack in the wall.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Do not let these snakes to get wet.
Adult supervision is required for cutting steps.
Things You'll Need.
Paper plate, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, spongers, etc, Pencil or pen, Scissors, Crayons, markers, or googly eyes, Red paper or ribbon.
White school glue or tacky glue, String, thumbtack, hole punch (optional), Rhinestones, glitter, etc (optional).
There are few things as relaxing and inspiring as clouds, but you can't always go outside to look at them. Make a hanging cloud to enjoy the sight of the sky anytime you’re stuck indoors.
1. Draw a basic cloud shape on thick cardboard. Use a pencil or marker to draw a simple cloud shape onto thick cardboard. This will serve as your template. Draw the cloud the same size you want the finished product to be.
If you need a little guidance for sketching the cloud, run a Google image search using the search term "cloud shape." Tons of options will come up for you to choose from!
2. Cut the cloud shape out of the cardboard. Use sharp scissors or an X-ACTO knife to cut along the lines you drew. Cut your cloud template out completely. Discard the excess cardboard.
3. Trace around the cloud template on thick white card stock. Pick a heavy stock so your 3D clouds are fairly durable. Trace around the cloud template on two sheets of the heavy white stock. Use a pencil and sketch lightly so you won't leave any dark marks on your white paper.
4. Cut out each white cloud shape carefully. Use scissors or an X-ACTO knife to cut out the cloud shapes. Cut just inside the drawn line so that your shapes won't have any visible pencil marks around the edges.
Lightly erase any pencil marks that accidentally make it onto the final shapes. Be careful not to bend the edges of the paper as you do so!
5. Add a thin stripe of hot glue down the center of one cloud. Heat up your hot glue gun. Place one cloud shape on the table in front of you. Then, draw a thin line of hot glue directly down the center of one of the cloud shapes.
6. Place a length of fishing line directly into the glue. Cut a piece of fishing line at the length you want to hang your 3D cloud. It can be as long or as short as you like. Anywhere from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) would work great. Place the line vertically, directly into the line of glue.
There should be no fishing line dangling under the cloud; it should only extend from the top. You will use this to hang the cloud.
Make sure you're using fishing line, which is transparent. That way, when you hang the cloud, it will look like it's floating in the air. Avoid fishing wire.
7. Fold another cloud shape right down the center. Set the glued cloud aside for a moment. Take another white cloud shape and fold it in half horizontally. The crease should appear in the same place as the glue stripe on the first cloud -- right down the middle.
8. Place the folded edge into the hot glue. Once folded, line up the creased edge of the second cloud with the stripe of glue on your first cloud. Press the edge into the glue, right on top of the fishing line. Hold it in place for about 30 to 60 seconds to ensure you get a solid bond.
You may need to add some fresh hot glue if yours has dried up. Simply add a very thin line of it in the same place.
9. Hang the cloud by the string. You can hang you 3D cloud anywhere you like! Use the fishing line to tie it to a light fixture, ceiling hook, the cord of a ceiling fan, or anywhere else you please.
10Make multiple clouds. You don't have to stop at one cloud! Repeat these steps to create multiple clouds. Cut the fishing line at different lengths so the clouds will hang at different levels. You can also place more than one cloud on a string for a stacked effect.
Remember, each 3D cloud is made from two white cloud shapes. If you want your mobile to have six 3D clouds, you'll need to cut out 12 cloud shapes from the white card stock.
11. Glue the strings around the inside edge of an embroidery hoop (optional). An embroidery hoop is circular, so it's perfect for a mobile. Let the clouds dangle at different lengths, but make sure all the strings extend from the top of the hoop at the same length. You'll use the strings extending from the top to hang your mobile.
Once the glue is dry, gather together the strings at the top. Create a knot to lock them altogether. Suspend the mobile by the knotted string wherever you like!
If you've never seen an embroidery hoop before, it's a small wooden ring used for needlepoint and other sewing projects. It can be found at any craft or sewing store. It will also have a tiny metal tightening device on it, but you won't need that for this purpose.
Things You'll Need.
Thick cardboard.
Thick white card stock.
Scissors or an X-ACTO knife.
Hot glue gun.
Hot glue sticks.
Fishing line.
Embroidery hoop.
Ceiling hooks.
Tips.
Make a few clouds if you like the outcome; a ceiling with several clouds can look really awesome.
Consider painting your paper lantern with glow-in-the-dark paint first. Your cloud will have a subtle glow.
Don't over-fluff your cloud. If you pull on the stuffing too much, it will lose its shape and fall apart.
If you do felting, you can also make a fluffy cloud by felting a ball and putting some of the excess wool around it.
Warnings.
Polyester stuffing is flammable. Do not put clouds near any heat source (lamps, ceiling lights, etc.).
