Pinwheels are a beautiful decoration and delight children of all ages. Use them to decorate your yard for a party, or happily watch your children as they admire the bright colors whirling together. Once you know how to make a basic pinwheel, you can make a fancier one with more spokes. You can also make a disc-shaped pinwheel. It won't spin, but it'll look lovely as a wall decoration or ornament.
1. Cut a sheet of patterned scrapbooking paper into four strips. Get some 12-inch (30.48-centimeter) square scrapbooking paper. Use a metal ruler and a craft blade to cut the paper into four, 3-inch (7.62-centimeter) wide strips.
Some scrapbooking paper has a white strip along the bottom edge for the price and label. You should trim this off first.
These pinwheels are meant to be used as decorations on gifts, walls, or ornaments. They do not spin like regular pinwheels.
2. Fan-fold the strips widthwise. Take your first strip, and fold the narrow edge over by ½ to 1-inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters). Use that as a fold as a guide for the rest of the paper. Repeat this step for the remaining three strips.
3. Consider adding a design to one of the long edges. Fold your strip back up so that it looks like a closed fan. Cut an angle into one of the narrow edges. Work one strip at a time, otherwise, the paper will be too thick to cut neatly.
You don't have to do this step. This will simply give the pinwheels a more ornate edge.
4. Attach the pieces together to make a longer strip. Place a strip of tape against one of the narrow ends of your first strip. Place it against the narrow end of the next strip, then press them together. Keep connecting the strips until you have one long strip.
If both ends of the strips are folded in opposite directions, they will make a V or ^ shape. Trim off one of the ends until both are folded in the same direction.
5. Attach the first and last strips together to make a disk. Run some glue or a strip of double-sided tape along one of the narrow ends. Bring the other narrow end towards it, and press the two together.
6. Flatten the disk. If the disk won't lay flat, you will need to glue a support to the back. Flip the disk over so that the back is facing you. Choose a dowel, straw, or skewer that is the same height as the disk. Hot glue your chosen stick down the center of the disk, right between two ridges.
7. How glue an embellishment to the front of the disk. For a fancy look, you can cut a small circle out of coordinating paper, then glue it to the front to cover the hole. For a more rustic touch, you can use a large button instead.
8. Cut a circle cut from cardstock to the back of the pinwheel. This will make it easier to secure the pinwheel to walls, gifts, and other items. It would be best if you use a matching color, but you can use a different color as well.
Use a cup, jar, or lid to trace the circle.
9. Use double-sided tape to secure the pinwheel. Place a few strips of double-sides tape onto the back of the pinwheel, right over the cardstock circle. Secure the pinwheel to your desired gift of banner.
If you are securing the pinwheel to a wall, consider using double-sided, foam mounting tape instead.
Alternatively, you can string several pinwheels together to make a banner.
10. Finished.
Tips.
Make your pinwheel out of thin plastic, such as acetate, binder dividers, or stencil plastic.
Wrap a pretty ribbon in a spiral around the dowel before adding the pinwheel.
For an even fancier pinwheel, paint the stick with acrylic paint or spray paint beforehand. Let it dry before adding the pinwheel.
You can use a drinking straw instead of a dowel. It won't be as durable, but it will be easier to assemble.
Glue a bead, button, or charm to the pin on the front of your pinwheel for a fancy touch.
Make your own double-sided scrapbooking paper by gluing two sheets of paper back-to-back.
Decorate plain paper with rubber stamps.
You can make a simpler pinwheel by securing everything with a thumbtack to the side of a pencil eraser.
Want to start jogging but can't bare to be without your phone? Need to count steps but don't have a Fitbit? Are you using your phone as a map, or a timer? Take your phone at any time to any place using this practical and cute at the same time armband phone holder!
Steps.
1. Place your phone on a piece of grey fabric (old t-shirt, cloth, etc.). Trace it, leaving a one centimetre gap between the pen line and the edge of the phone. Copy the same shape to the left of the first one, connecting the middle.
2. Cut out the rectangle. Fold it over and cut down the line you drew earlier which connects the two. Place one smaller shape on top of the other, and sew or glue it. Leave the top open. Turn the pouch inside out and check the phone fits - it should be perfect!
3. Take some grey yarn which matches the colour of your fabric. Wrap around your hand one hundred times. Cut the end of the yarn, slide it off, then cut a short length of yarn and tie it down the middle of the loop, facing the opposite direction to the rest of the yarn. Set aside, and repeat.
4. Using some more yarn, wrap four fingers eighty times. Slide it off, tie it, and set it aside. Now wrap fifty times around three fingers then slide, tie, and set aside. Repeat.
5. Choose one of the 100 wrap loops. Cut all of the strands which loop over, to make the pom-pom loose and fluffy. Run a hairbrush over it to make a furry effect. Repeat this on all of the other pom-pom loops.
6. Hot glue one of the 100 wrap pom-poms right at the bottom of the phone slip, overlapping a little. Glue another 100 wrap pom-pom just above it. Leave a little space to put the 80 wrap one right at the top without it overlapping too much (it should overlap a little). Glue the smallest pom-poms on either side of the 80 wrap one for ears. Trim the pom-poms to shape. Is it starting to look like a koala bear?
7. Cut an egg shape out of black felt for the nose. Glue it on the 80 wrap pom-pom. Glue googly eyes above it. Add other features with felt if you wish (eg. pink for the inside of the ears, cheeks, mouth etc.).
8. Measure the circumference of your upper arm (average is 23-26cm). Cut that amount of elasticated ribbon out. Wrap around your upper arm to check it is comfortable. If not, measure again, and cut some more elasticated ribbon of a different length.
9.Draw a rectangle on grey fabric. The longer sides should be the length of the circumference of your upper arm +3cm, and the shorter sides 7cm. Cut it out, then fold it in half. Glue or sew the longer side, then turn it inside out using the shorter sides.
10. Slide the elasticated ribbon inside the tube and glue or sew the ends up. Repeat the last two steps again to create the straps for your koala bear phone armband.
11. Glue the straps underneath the fur. Then loop them around to the other side and glue. Your koala bear is complete. Have fun showing off your nifty bear whilst also using it practically!
Here's a cute, fun, and creative afternoon activity that you can make and attach to your backpack or even wear as a necklace. All it takes are some beads, string, and a keychain clasp.
Method 1 Preparing the Body.
1. Cut a roughly three-foot length of 1/8th-inch ribbon or string. The longer the string, the longer the lizard. Three feet is a good start.
2. Fold the string in half so that the two ends meet. This will lead to a loop at the other end of the string.
3. Take the loop and run it through the bottom of a keychain clasp. Really, any sort of clasp will work. All you need to do is create a slipknot around the clasp. You should have your loop on one side of the clasp, and the long excess string on the other.
4. Pull the ends through the loop to create a slipknot. Reach into the loop and pull the strings through, pulling until tight. This creates a simple slip knot that will hold the lizard in place as you work.
5. Tape the clasp down to the table so that the strings drape towards you. Make sure the strings are not tangled up, and that you can clearly tell which string is the left string and which one is the right.
Method 2 Building the Head and Neck.
1. Add two beads to the leftmost string. These beads will be your body, so choose the color you want for the bulk of the lizard. Don't feed the beads all the way down; just let them dangle a bit towards the end. In this video, the body will be yellow.
2. Thread the right string through the beads the opposite way. If the leftmost string enters through the left, thread this one through from the right. You'll have both string going through the center of the two beads in opposite directions.
3. Pull both ends of the strings until the beads slide up to the keychain clasp. Lightly pull on the opposite ends to force the beads up to the top.
4. Feed three more beads -- two eyes and a body color -- onto the leftmost string. You want to sandwich the body bead with the two eye colors. Here, the eyes are green and the body is yellow, so you'd put them on as green, yellow, green.
5. Slide the right side through the beads and pull both ends until the beads slide to the top. Repeat the same procedure as you did with the first two body beads. Slide the three beads on the left string, thread the right through them, then pull both strings to move the beads to the top.
6. Repeat the whole procedure with two more beads to make the "neck." Take two body colors, thread them on the left, slide the right through, and pull tight. This is your neck.
7. Take three more body beads and pull them through. Again, it is the same procedure. For a little flair, you can use a different color for the center bead here, allowing you to put a "stripe" on your lizard's back.
These three beads are the beginning of the "back." You'll need to start the limbs after this.
Method 3 Building The Legs.
1. Set aside two beads for the body and three other beads for the feet. Here, the body beads are still yellow and the feet will be black.
2. Thread the two body beads on the left string and slide them down close to the body. Push them almost all the way to the body. These are your legs.
3. Slide the black beads on, just above the legs. Keep them close, but separated.
4. Thread the end of the left string through the two beads for the leg. You just want to thread through your two yellow beads, not the three for the feet.
5. Pull the string tight to pull everything together, adjusting slightly as necessary. Use your fingers to make sure nothing bunches up. This is your first leg! Note how it only requires the left string to make -- you should never touch the right one when making the left leg.
6. Repeat the process with the other string to make the right leg. Once done, it is time to move back to the body.
Method 4 Finishing the Body and Tail.
1. Build three more body rows identically to the first. Put three beads on the left string, remembering to alternate them if you're doing a two-colored body. Then slide the right string in the opposite direction as the left and pull the two ends to slide the beads up to the body.
You need three more rows before starting the feet again.
2. Make two more legs the same way you made the first two. After the three lengths of the body, add two more legs. The process is identical.
3. Add two more body beads, to make the base of the tail (identical to the neck). You should have the process down pat by now. Two beads on the left string, feed through the right string and pull tight.
4. Slide the first tail bead on the left string, thread the right string through the opposite side, and pull. The tail is simply the same process as the body, but its only one bead per layer. You can choose any color you want. Alternating looks great too, and you can use as many beads as you want for the length of tail you like.
5. Tie a double knot at the end of the tail to keep the beads in place. You can tie any knot you want, but a simple square knot will do just fine. You can use the knot used to tie your shoes as well, but make sure you double knot it.
Question : What can I do if I have lost 2 beads?
Answer : A good way to solve this without doing much damage would be to shorten the tail by two beads.
Question : What size beads should I use?
Answer : The best beads to use are pony beads. Pony beads measure about 6 by 9 millimeters, and the hole is about 4 millimeters.
Question : How can I give the lizard a longer nose?
Answer : After you secure the string to the clasp, you could first tie one bead on the string. Then you would make the lizard as explained in the article, which would give it a slightly longer nose.
Question : Can I use thread instead of string or ribbon?
Answer : Yes, you can use thread instead of string or ribbon, but I would just make sure your thread is thick enough that it won't break.
Question : What do I do if I run out of ribbon in the middle?
Answer : Undo your previous row of beads and attach new ribbon. Tie as small of a knot as possible. As a general rule, I use one inch of material per bead.
Question : What are the best beads to use for making a beaded lizard?
Answer : The best beads to use for making this are horse beads. This is because they are thick and are durable, you can buy them at any craft store or bead store.
Things You'll Need : Pony Beads (about 60), 1/8th-inch wide ribbon, Scissors, Beads, Tape, Nice flat surface (recommended).
Tips : You can mix and match colors and lengths with ease once you get used to the process. For a bigger lizard, add one bead to each smaller section (legs, head, neck) and two beads to each body section. This will keep the proportions roughly the same.
Dog fur has been used to make a soft and warm yarn, or Chiengora, throughout history. Much like other yarns, the process for making dog fur yarn involves harvesting the fibers, washing the fur, and spinning it into the yarn. Dogs with long fur undercoats are the best candidates for making dog yarn, and many groomers will donate their extra fur to you if you don’t have a dog of your own!
Part 1 Collecting Dog Fur.
1. Brush your dog in the spring, when they’re getting rid of their winter coat. Dogs tend to shed more during the springtime, which makes this a great time for harvesting fur. Use a brush or mitt along the dog’s back, sides, and soft, fluffy areas, and avoid areas like the legs and head. Discard any coarse hairs that you can see in the brush, since you won’t be using them.
Breeds like Samoyed, Siberian Husky, Malamute, Golden Retriever, Newfoundland, Collie, and Sheepdog are great for making dog yarn because they have fluffy undercoats with long fur.
2. Pull the fur out of the brush and place it in a cloth bag. Once you’ve picked out the coarse hairs, use your hand to carefully tug the fur out of the brush and transfer it to a bag. Leave the bag open to allow air circulation, preventing mold and mildew.
If you don’t have a cotton bag, you can use a pillowcase or even a cardboard box for collecting the fur.
Avoid using a plastic bag for collecting the fur since plastic can trap air and allow mold growth.
Don’t overfill the bag or push the fur down into the bag. Packing the fur too tightly can cause mold and mildew to form.
3. Make sure you have at least 4 oz (113 g) of fur. To make any type of yarn, you need a substantial amount of fur. After each collection, use a kitchen scale to weigh all of your yarn to see how much you have. If the fur is thin or short, you might need up to 12 oz (339 g) of fur to get the yarn started.
Keep your bags of fur in a place where your dog can’t get into them, since some dogs like to play with their own fur!
4. Add other types of fibers and fur to make a blended yarn. If you want to make yarn with a variety of textures, you can incorporate wool from a llama or alpaca, or you can harvest fur from different types of dogs. If you don’t have enough fur, or your pet’s fur is shorter than 2 inches (5.1 cm) long, you can use these different fibers to make a stronger, longer strand of yarn.
If your dog doesn’t produce a lot of fur, contact a groomer to see if you can use the excess fur from those dogs, or offer to brush a family member’s dog or a friend’s dog to gather additional fur.
The wool and fur might be a slightly different texture, but that’s okay. As long as you aren’t using coarse hair, the fibers can be blended together through a process called carding.
Part 2 Washing the Fur.
1. Mix warm water and soap in a large bowl. Drip 2-3 drops of gentle dish soap or pet shampoo into a bowl and turn on the warm water. Swish the water around with your hand to make sure it’s an even temperature, and scoop out any bubbles that raise over the top of the bowl.
Too many bubbles can make the fur difficult to rinse, but you do need soap to make the fur clean.
2. Submerge the fur in the water for 10 minutes. Gather the fur and push it down into the water until all of the fibers are completely immersed. Press down on the fur, but don’t tug or pull at it, as this can break the fibers of the fur. Leave the fur in the water to soak out the dirt and debris.
Try to keep the water at around the same temperature to prevent the fur from becoming matted, which is also called “felting.”
3. Remove the fur from the water and refill the bowl with warm water. Use your hand to scoop all of the fur out of the bowl and then dump out the water. Make the new water about the same temperature as the previous water, and make sure there are little to no bubbles in the water.
If there are bubbles in the water, dump the water down the drain and refill the bowl to rinse it.
4. Place the fur in the water and push it down to remove excess soap. Transfer the fur back into the bowl and push it down to squeeze out the soap and any additional debris. If the fur is very soapy, you may need to give it an extra rinse with fresh, warm water.
Avoid pulling or wringing the fur in the water, as this can break the fibers and cause the fur to become matted as it dries.
5. Spread the fur out in the sun to dry for 1-2 hours. Lay down a towel or a mesh screen and position the fur on top of it. Try to spread the fur out as much as possible without breaking it up into small pieces. If there’s wind, place a mesh screen or towel on top of the fur to hold it in place.
If it’s cloudy or rainy outside, leave the fur inside to dry in a well-ventilated area. It may take up to 4 hours for the fur to dry inside.
Part 3 Spinning the Yarn.
1. Card the fur using the same process that you would for wool. Using a pair of hand-carders, place the clean and dry fur in sections on one of the carders. Then, roll and pull the empty carder over the one with the fur in a downward motion 2-3 times to elongate the fur. Continue until the fur is soft and evenly blended,
If you’re blending another type of fiber with the fur, such as alpaca and wool, you can add it in this step by placing it on top of the dog fur in the carder before you begin blending. This will combine the fibers into longer pieces and make them easier to spin.
2. Remove the fur from the carder and roll it into a roll egg. Use your hands or a removal tool to reach underneath the fur on the carder and lift it off of the wires. Once all of the fur is completely off, place the blended fur on a flat surface and use your hands to roll the fur in one direction, forming a kind of tube or cylinder out of the fur.
This incorporates the fibers in different directions, making it easier to form yarn, especially when you’re using blended fibers from different sources, like wool and dog fur or different types of dog fur.
3. Use a drop spindle to easily make a long strand of yarn. Hook the end of your carded and rolled fur onto the end of the spindle and hold the fur in one of your hands. Then, spin the bottom of the spindle and draw the fibers out of the rolled ball of fur. This will create a long strand of yarn from the fur.
If your fibers are very short and you didn’t blend them with another type of fiber, you may find that they aren’t strong enough to hold the spindle up. In this case, you should try hand-spinning the fur to make your yarn.
4. Hand-spin the fur if you don’t have a spindle. Hold the fur in one of your hands, and pinch one end into a point. Then, using the opposite hand, begin twisting and slowly drawing the fur out of your hand. Keep twisting it to make it tight and dense until you have a long strand of yarn.
This method produces shorter, more dense strands of yarn that are good for hats and other small items.
5. Make cozy crafts out of your new dog fur yarn. Try your hand at knitting and crocheting with your new yarn. Dog yarn is soft and warm, and it easily repels water, so try making a hat or scarf with the yarn. You can even make a pair of socks or gloves to keep yourself warm!
If you have a lot of yarn from the fur, you can make a sweater or a blanket.
6. Store the yarn in a dry, well-ventilated area. Even when the yarn is made, the dog fur might still be susceptible to mold and mildew if it gets wet. When you aren’t using the bundles of yarn, keep them somewhere dry with good air circulation. If you have to put the yarn in a bag to store it, use a bag made of a breathable fabric, like cotton.
Try to keep the yarn out of reach of pets, since they may still be able to smell some of their own scent on the fibers and might want to play with the bundles of yarn!
Tips.
Avoid using clippings or overcoat hairs, which can be scratchy and uncomfortable to wear.
Warnings.
Keep in mind that some people are allergic to dogs and shouldn’t wear items that have been made from dog fur, even if it has been washed.
Things You'll Need.
Brush or mitt, Dog fur, Cotton bag, pillowcase, or box, Large bowl, Dish soap, Water, Towel or mesh screen.
Hand carders, Wool or alpaca (optional, for added length/strength), Drop spindle (optional).
There are multiple ways to remove paint from wood. If you're working with small splatters, you can usually wipe them away without much hassle. For larger paint stripping projects, you will need to use heat, force, or chemical removers. Here's what you should know about each method.
Removing Paint Marks.
Remove fresh latex paint with water A spot of latex paint can usually be removed by wiping it up with a soft, water-soaked rag.
Soak a soft, clean cloth rag in warm water.
Wring out some of the excess water to prevent the rag from dripping over unaffected areas. Scrape the paint away
Wipe away the spot of paint. You may need to rinse and re-soak the rag several times to get all of the paint up.
Wipe the wood dry with a separate, dry rag.
Use denatured alcohol if the water does not work. If you have a latex paint splatter on your wood that you cannot wipe away with plain water, wipe it away with denatured alcohol, instead.
Apply enough alcohol to a clean rag to dampen it without making it dripping wet.
Pass the alcohol-soaked rag over the paint spot to remove it. Rinse, resoak, and repeat as needed.
Dry the spot with a clean, dry rag when finished.
Remove fresh oil-based paint with mineral spirits. Oil-based paint will continue clinging to the wood if you use plain water, so wipe it away with a soft rag dabbed in mineral spirits.
Dip a soft, clean rag into a small dish of mineral spirits. Instead of soaking the entire rag, only soak the area you plan on bringing into contact with the paint splatter.
Wipe up the paint by passing the mineral spirit over the splatter. Rinse and resoak as needed until all the paint has been removed.
Dry the area with a separate dry rag.
Remove dried paint with boiled linseed oil. Dry spots of paint can be softened by soaking and rubbing them away with boiled linseed oil.
Soak a clean rag in boiled linseed oil.
Press the linseed oil rag against the paint spot and hold in place for 30 to 60 seconds. This permits the oil to soak into the paint.
Wipe away the softened paint with your linseed oil soaked rag.
Dry the area with a separate dry rag.
Use a putty knife, if necessary, for stubborn dried spots. If you cannot wipe the paint away even after softening it with boiled linseed oil, carefully use a putty knife to scrape beneath the splatter and lift it off the wood.
Strip residue with a linseed oil paste. Any dried paint residue that remains can be removed by rubbing it with a paste made of boiled linseed oil and rottenstone.
Combine enough boiled linseed oil and rottenstone in a small disposable dish to form a thick paste. Use a disposable wooden chopstick to stir the ingredients together.
Scoop some of the paste onto a clean rag and rub the paste into the wood along the grain.
Wipe away the grain using another clean rag.
Removing Paint with Heat.
Hold a heat gun near the surface of the wood. Position the heat gun 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) above the painted wooden surface after you switch the heat gun on.
Use an electric heat gun or electric paint remover. A blowtorch will also provide the necessary amount of heat, but blowtorches come with a greater risk of scorching or setting the wood on fire, so they are not recommended.
Wear protective gloves and goggles as you work with the heat gun.
Do not let the heat gun come into contact with the wood or come too close to the wood. Doing so may result in scorch marks or fire.
Slowly move the heat gun over the surface. Pass the heat gun over the surface of the section of wood you are currently working on. Continue passing it side-to-side and up-and-down without ceasing.
Do not let the heat gun linger in one spot for a prolonged period. Doing so will cause the wood to burn and potentially catch on fire.
Scrape the paint up as it wrinkles. Once the paint begins to bubble and wrinkle, immediately scrape the paint up with a broad paint scraper.
If possible, continue to heat the paint with the heat gun in one hand as you scrape up bubbling paint with your other hand. If you have difficulty balancing both tasks, though, switch the heat gun off temporarily and scrape up any heated paint immediately.
Stay calm if a fire starts. Even though it is possible for the wood to catch fire, these fires are usually small at the start and can be put out safely as long as you think clearly.
A small flame can usually be put out by smothering it with the flat side of your paint scraper.
Keep a bucket of water nearby as you work. If a fire starts to catch and cannot be smothered out, quickly soak it with the water.
Removing Paint with Force.
Protect yourself. Wear safety goggles and a face mask to protect yourself from paint and wood dust as you sand, regardless of the sanding method you use.
Sand the paint off by hand when possible. When removing paint from a crack or crevice or stripping it from a small, delicate wooden object, you should sand the paint off by hand.
Mechanical sanders use considerable force and can damage delicate pieces. Moreover, they can be difficult to use on small, confined spaces.
Use coarse, open-coat sandpaper since other types may clog with paint and wood dust too quickly.
Sand with the grain of the wood instead of against it.
Decrease to a medium grit paper once you can see the grain of the wood peeking through the paint.
Decrease to a fine grit when small bits of paint are all that remain.
Switch to a mechanical sander for larger jobs. For larger areas of painted wood, including large pieces of wood furniture, large wooden chests, or wood trim, rely on a mechanical sander to save time.
Choose between a mechanical hand sander and a power sander. A hand sander will be a little gentler and makes a good option if you want to preserve more of the wood beneath the paint. A power sander will finish the job faster, though, making it a good choice for especially large projects.
Belt, disk, and drum sanders are all good options worth considering when picking a power sander.
Use coarse, open-coat sandpaper on your mechanical sander since less coarse options tend to clog up with paint and wood dust too easily.
Always sand with the grain of the wood rather than against it to minimize the amount of damage to the wood.
Switch to a fine grain sandpaper, if desired, once the majority of the paint has been sanded off and only a few small specks remain.
Removing Paint with Chemical Paint Strippers.
Choose the right type of paint stripper. Look for a paint stripper labeled for use with the type of paint you want to remove. Also choose between a liquid or paste paint stripper.
Liquid chemicals are often applied in spray form and are usually used to clean coatings or a couple of layers.
Paste chemicals are brushed on and are used to strip many layers of paint. If you need to remove 10 layers or more, choose a paste.
Read the instructions thoroughly before use. While the application procedure is the same for most chemical paint strippers, the exact details may vary. Always follow the instructions that come with the paint stripper.
Pour a small amount of paint stripper in a wide-mouth metal can. Pouring a small amount in a small can makes it easier to use the paint remover.
If possible, use a can with a plastic resealable lid.
Brush the paint stripper on with a paint brush. Use a broad flat paintbrush to apply the chemical thickly and evenly over the surface of the painted wood.
Brush the paint stripper on in one direction.
Do not brush over areas that have already been covered by paint stripper.
Alternatively, spray the paint stripper on. If using an aerosol paint stripper, point the nozzle of the bottle roughly 4 inches (10 cm) away from the surface of the painted wood and apply the chemical in an even, thick layer.
The chemical will create a foaming, clinging layer.
Let sit for as long as directed. Usually, the paint remover should be left on the surface for 20 to 30 minutes, but exact times may vary.
Keep the windows and doors of the room open to prevent potentially harmful fumes from building up as the chemical sits.
Test the paint. Rub the blade of a paint scraper over the surface in a circular motion. If the scraper cuts into the paint, the chemical has worked correctly.
Make sure that the scraper you use is chemical-resistant.
Scrape the paint off with a metal scraper. Glide the paint scraper beneath the softened paint to peel it away.
Remove as much as possible with the first few passes.
Work in one direction.
Touch up the surface with soaked steel wool. If some paint still remains, soak medium-grade steel wool in a small amount of paint remover and scrub those spots until they lift up.
Old rags or abrasive scouring pads will also work.
Goldfish are a classic fish, and very popular when it comes to decorating a party or room with an underwater theme. Instead of using paper cutouts of goldfish, why not make 3D goldfish out of paper lanterns? They are lightweight, colorful, and very easy to make! You can make a simple goldfish by adding some eyes and fins out of construction paper, or you can get fancier with tissue paper instead!
Steps.
1. Get a solid-colored paper lantern and open it up. Most goldfish are orange, but yours can be any color you want.
2. Draw a tail fin shape onto a sheet of construction paper, then cut it out with a pair of scissors. Make the base of the tail straight so that you can attach it to the lantern. Be sure to draw the tail ½ to 1 inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters) longer than you want it to be.
Choose a color that closely matches the color of your lantern.
3. Make the base of the tail. Fold the base of the tail down by ½ to 1 inch (1.25 to 2.54 centimeters) to make a flap. Cut a slit into the middle of the flap, all the way down to the folded edge to create two flaps. Leave one of the flaps the way it is, and fold the other one to the back of the fin. You will now have two flaps, with each one pointing in a different direction. This will not only allow the tail to flap about, but also make it easier to glue on.
4. Attach the fin to the lantern. Turn the lantern so that one of the holes is facing up. Use a hot glue gun or double-sided tape to attach the tail to the side of the lantern.
5. Draw two side fin shapes, then cut them out. To make the fins even, stack two sheets of construction paper one on top of the other first, draw your fin shape, then cut it out. You don't need to make the base of the fins flat or straight.
6. Attach the fins to the side of the lantern. Find the middle of the lantern, then attach the bottom tip of the fin with a drop of glue or a small piece of double-sided tape. Repeat this step for the other side of the fish with the other fin.
Don't glue the entire fin down. You want it to stick out.
7. Cut two circles out of white construction paper, and two circles out of black construction paper to make the eyes. Make sure that the black circles are smaller. You can also use printer paper and cardstock for this.
Another alternative would be to use large googly eyes; make sure that they are proportionate to your fish!
8. Attach the eyes to the fish. Position them in front of the side fins and just above them. You can attach them using double-sided tape or a hot glue gun. If you are using googly eyes, however, a hot glue might be the better option.
9. Thread some string through the top of the fish so that you can hang it. Thread a piece of string through the bar in the top hole of your lantern, then tie it into a loop.
If your lantern doesn't have a bar, poke two small holes in the top of the lantern, just below the ring opening.
10. Hang the loop from a hook wherever you want. These lanterns make great decorations for underwater themed parties and rooms. Be careful not to get them wet, however!
Tips
Create a goldfish family and purchase paper lanterns in a variety of sizes.
Paint designs or scales onto your lantern using acrylic paint or glitter glue.
For a more organic look, paint your own paper with acrylic or watercolor paint, and use that instead of the construction paper.
Instead of tissue paper, try organza or tulle! Use hot glue to attach it to the lantern.
Things You'll Need.
Paper lantern.
Cardstock or construction paper (matching lantern color).
Black and white paper (or large googly eyes).
Scissors.
Hot glue gun and hot glue sticks or double-sided tape.
Paper butterflies are not only dainty and chic, they're also fun to make. Try your hand at origami to create one or, if you're more of a crafting beginner, fold a simpler version with pretty pleats. When you're finished, use your butterflies as decor or give them to friends and family as gifts.
Method 1 Folding an Origami Butterfly.
1. Fold the paper in half, then open it and fold it in half the other way. Make sure to crease both of the folds. Line up the edges when you’re folding to ensure the crease is directly in the center.
If your paper is the same color or pattern on both sides, it doesn’t matter which side you start on. However, if one side is white, or the “backside,” begin with that side facing up.
Choosing the Perfect Paper for Your Butterfly
If you're a beginner, choose oversized origami paper. Bigger sheets are easier to work with.
For easy folding, use origami paper, because it is thinner than regular paper.
If you want to add visual interest, opt for textured paper like linen or felt cardstock.
For a dramatic accent, pick foil paper in a shimmery metallic.
2. Fold the paper in half diagonally, open it, and fold on the other diagonal. Bring 2 opposite corners together to create the folds. Press down firmly to create defined creases. Repeat on both diagonals. Open the paper to lie flat after you fold it.
Your 4 folds should intersect in the exact center of the paper.
3. Bring the right and left creases together, creating a triangle. With the paper laying flat in front of you, press the right horizontal crease to the left one. As you do this, the paper should collapse onto itself in a triangle shape along the diagonal creases you made.
Press down on the triangle to crease the paper once it’s collapsed.
If the paper isn’t folding properly, go back over your original creases again. If they aren’t defined enough, the paper will have trouble falling into the shape.
4. Fold the 2 top corners into the center. When you created the triangle shape, it made 2 layers. Grab the corners on the top layer and line up their edges with the crease in the middle of the triangle.
Try to align the corners with the crease perfectly so they aren’t overlapping or so there isn’t a large gap between the edges in the center.
5. Flip the triangle over and fold the bottom up, leaving a small tip showing. You aren’t folding it completely half. Instead you’re folding it about 1/3 up from the base of the triangle. Hold the fold in place gently with your hand.
Don’t crease the fold.
6. Bend the top layer of the tip over the base. There are 2 layers at the tip of the triangle. Peel the top 1 forward, folding it over the wide triangle bottom you’re currently holding in place. The tip will be the head of the butterfly.
Crease the fold that you make with the tip. This will help secure the body of the butterfly in place and prevent it from unraveling.
7. Pull down the pieces from the bottom layer to create the lower wings. With the top layer folded over, bring the bottom layer of the tip in the opposite direction. The points of the 2 triangular pieces should be facing down, away from the folded head.
It may help to hold the folded tip with your thumb while you pull the other pieces down so that the butterfly doesn’t come apart.
Re-crease the folded tip after you arrange the bottom pieces if necessary.
Trim the edges of the wings if you want a smaller butterfly.
Method 2 Making a Pleated Paper Butterfly.
1. Fold the square piece of paper in half, creasing it. Line up the edges of the paper when you fold it to make sure you’re creating a line directly down the middle. Press firmly with your fingernail to form the crease.
Use any type of paper you’d like, whether it’s origami paper, colorful cardstock, or even pretty gift wrap.
The size of your paper doesn’t matter, as long as it’s square. If you have a rectangular piece, simply trim it down so all of the edges are the same length.
2. Unfold the paper and cut along the crease line. Use your scissors to cut the piece of paper in half. The groove of the crease should help guide your scissors in a straight line through the paper.
Make sure your scissors are sharp so they don’t tear or crinkle the paper.
If you have trouble cutting in a line, hold your scissors against a straight edge, like a ruler, while you cut.
3. Make accordion folds with one of the pieces of the paper. Fold a small piece lengthwise, then flip the paper over to fold it back onto itself. Continue flipping the paper from side to side as you fold along the entire length of the paper. Think of this motion as similar to making a pleat or a fan.
You can make the folds as thick or as thin as you'd like.
Keep the folds all the same thickness, no matter what size you choose.
4. Take the other piece of paper you cut and fold it in half lengthwise. Place the 2 longer edges on top of each other. Then create a crease by pressing down along the fold.
Try to make the crease as straight and even as possible so it splits the paper directly in half.
5. Open it up and fold the 4 corners in toward the center crease line. Line up the edges straight along the crease. Your paper will now be in the shape of a hexagon, with 2 pointed ends formed by the folded corners.
Leave the corners folded. If they won’t stay in place, use a piece of double-sided tape or a little bit of glue under the flap.
6. Flip the paper over and make accordion folds on each side of the crease. Fold one half the paper in towards the center. Then repeat on the other side. This will be the top half of the butterfly’s wings.
Make the folds as large or as small as you’d like, depending on the size of your paper.
7. Bend both pieces of pleated paper in half. Press the pleats together and hold the paper between your thumb and forefinger. Carefully fold one end onto the other, creasing it firmly.[14]
The paper won’t stay folded, but that’s okay. You just want to make a crease, so the paper is in a V-shape.
8. Place 1 piece above the other and tie them together at the center. Arrange the 2 pieces so that they form a butterfly shape. Pinch them together while you tie string or cord around both pieces.[15]
To secure the 2 pieces together better, you can add a dab of craft glue or hot glue in the middle.
Having a friend hold the pieces together while you tie the string makes it easier to get a tight knot.
You can also use ribbon or a pipe cleaner instead of string.
9. Pull out the pleats to open up the wings. Scrunched-up folds don’t exactly resemble a beautiful butterfly. Gently pull the pleats apart so that the 2 pieces of paper look like 1 large wing on each side instead of 2 disjointed ones.[16]
Be careful not to rip the paper when you’re arranging the pleats.
Fun Ways to Use Your Butterflies
Hang them on a string or ribbon to drape as a whimsical garland in your room.
Glue the butterflies to a piece of paper or a canvas as 3D art.
Give them as gifts around the holidays.
Place them on a bookshelf or coffee table as decor.
Painting feathers is a fun and easy craft activity. They are fun to create and you will be left with a beautiful collection of feathers to display. You can choose to paint your feathers with watercolors or acrylic paint. Watercolor paints give a soft effect whereas acrylic paints allow you to create striking contrasting designs.
Method 1 Painting Feathers Using Acrylic Paints.
1. Choose your paint colors. Put the tubes of paint beside each other to see which color combinations work best together.
Consider adding black or white paints as these can be added on top of your base colors to create a striking contrast.
2. Squeeze a small amount of your selected paints onto a piece of card. Keep each color separate to stop the colors from merging. You will only need a small amount of each color.
Mix colours together on the piece of card if you want to create new colors. Mixing blue and red will make purple, red and yellow will make orange and red and white will make pink.
3. Load a medium-sized brush with a small amount of paint. Gently dip your brush into the first color of paint you want to use. Start with a small amount -- you can always add more if you need it, but using too much paint will make the feathers clump together.
4. Brush gently across the feather in the direction that the feather grows. Painting in the direction of growth stops the brush from damaging or ruffling the feathers and helps to ensure you evenly coat the surface with paint. Use the paint sparingly, you only need a thin coat.
If you want to change colors, make sure you thoroughly clean your brush before using the next color.
5. Turn the feather over and paint any patches you missed. Wait for the top coat of paint to try before turning the feathers over. This should take about 1 hour. You don't need to paint the entire back-side of the feather, only paint any patches that aren't colored. Try to match the colors so they mirror what is on the top of the feather. Avoid add unnecessary extra paint as this will make the feathers clump together.
If the top coat of paint has soaked all the feathers you can skip this step.
Let the feathers to dry for another hour before applying any more paint.
6. Add designs onto your feather using black or white paint. Dip a very small paintbrush into your paint. Create any designs you like over your colored feather. You can experiment with lines, polka dots. and zig-zags. Get creative!
Make sure the base layer of paint is completely dry before adding the black or white paint to stop the colors from merging together.
7. Leave the feathers to dry completely before displaying them. Keep the feathers in a warm place that is out of the wind until they are completely dry. Be creative with how you display your painted feathers. Try displaying them in a vase or attach them to a piece of card.
Make sure that the paint is dry before moving the feathers as the paint may stain other surfaces.
Things You’ll Need.
Painting Feathers Using Acrylic Paints.
Acrylic paints.
Paint brush (small and medium sizes).
Cardboard.
Water to rinse the brushes.
Feathers.
Scrap paper.
Method 2
Painting Feathers Using Watercolour Paints.
1. Choose your colour scheme. If you want to use multiple colors try putting the tubes of paint beside each other so you can see if the colors look good together.
If the colors on the tubes are darker than what you want, test them out on a spare piece of paper. Adding more water to the paint will make the color lighter. For example, change a deep-blue to a mid-blue by adding a few drops of water.
Choosing a mixture of all light colors or all vibrant colors will give the feathers a cohesive look.
2. Brush over the feather with a dry paintbrush to make them smooth. Use the tip of a brush to make the strands of the feather sit flat. This will give you a smooth surface to apply paint to and will help you to be able to paint all the strands of the feather.
3. Squeeze a small amount of your selected paints into a paint palette. Keep each color separate to stop the colors from changing. Add a few drops of water to each of the colors.
Keep adding water until you are satisfied with the color of the paint. For example, turn a dark-green to a mid-green by adding a few drops of water.
If you don't have the color of paint that you want, try mixing the colors. Red and white will make pink, blue and yellow will make green and blue and red make purple.
4. Paint your feathers using a watercolor brush. Dip the brush into the paint and brush the color across the feather. If the colours are too dark or aren't blending well, try adding more water to the paint. Paint each side of the feather in the direction that the feathers grow. This stops the brush from damaging or ruffling the feathers.
Wash your brush after you have finished painting with one color. This will stop the colors from mixing on your brush.
The water will absorb quickly into the feather so you only need to apply a thin coat of paint.
5. Turn the feather over and paint any patches you have missed. Wait for the top coat of paint to try before turning the feathers over. This should take about 1 hour. You don't need to paint the entire back-side of the feather, only paint any patches that aren't colored.
If you want the color to look evenly colored, try to match the colors so that they mirror the colors on top of the feather.
Use a different colour if you want the feather to have a blended look.
6. Leave the feathers to dry on a piece of paper. Choose a place out of the wind so the feathers don’t blow away. Make sure that the feathers are dry before moving them as the paint may stain other surfaces.
7. Brush out the dry feathers with a small nail brush. Pull the brush over the feather in the direction that the fibers grow. Brush both sides of the feather to ensure that you catch all of the strands. This process will help to make the feathers fluffy again.
Make sure that the feathers are completely dry before brushing otherwise they won’t fluff up.
How to Make a Paper Penguin Using an Origami Penguin.
Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!
Steps.
1. Purchase origami paper. This method calls for just a single sheet of 6” x 6” origami paper. If you want a larger penguin, then you can easily go for 12” x 12” paper, but you'll have to multiply any directions containing measurements by two. If you want an even better looking penguin, buy paper that is white on one side and black on the other.
2. Fold diagonal creases along the middle. To start, you want to place the sheet of origami paper flat (with the white side facing up if you have paper with a black side as well). Then fold the paper in half diagonally so the bottom left corner is flush with the top right corner and make a crease. Unfold the paper and do the same with the opposite corners, and then unfold the page again.
When you unfold the sheet again, you will have creases forming a large X across the page.
3. Fold the lower left corner to the center. With the page flat again and the large creases making an X, you will then take the lower left corner of the paper and fold it so that the tip of the corner touches the center of the page. In other words, the corner edge will touch the center of the X made by the earlier creases. Flatten the folded portion and make another crease, then open the sheet so it's flat again.
4. Fold the upper right corner to the crease you just made. You will now have the large X crease as well as a smaller diagonal crease in the lower left of the page. Take the top right corner of the page and fold it over so that it touches the lower left crease. Then open the page once more.
5. Turn the page over. For the next set of folds, you'll need to turn the page over. If you have two-colored paper, this means that the black side will now faces up. When you turn the paper over, orient it diagonally so that the current lower left corner now points up.
6. Fold the left corner to the right corner. With the paper in the new orientation, take the corner pointing left and fold the paper in half so that it's flush with the corner pointing right. There will already be a crease here from when you made this fold on the other side of the sheet, but you'll need to crease it in the opposite direction when you fold it over.
7. Fold the bottom corner over to the right. From the last step, the sheet will now look like a triangle with the side on the left forming a vertical line. Take the corner of the triangle that points down and fold it across at a 45° angle. Fold it so that the horizontal edge made at the top of the fold touches the lower crease already on this part of the page—not the middle crease but the one below it. Once you've made the crease from this fold, turn the flap back over so that you have the same triangle shape you started with.
8. Reverse-fold the corner along the crease you just made. A reverse fold is a bit more three-dimensional than the other folds you've made so far. In order to make the reverse fold, take the crease you just made and crease it in the opposite direction, but make the crease by folding and tucking the corner into the paper.
9. Fold the top half over. With the reverse fold out of the way, you want to take the corner pointing right—just the top layer not both layers—and fold it back on itself. Fold it so that the flat side just above the corner lines up flush with the flat vertical line on the left side of the paper. Make a crease here, but do not unfold the flap. Leave it folded.
10. Turn the page over and make the same fold on the other side. You now want to turn the paper over completely and make the same fold you just made but from the other side. In other words, fold the other corner (the bottom layer from the previous step) over so that its upper edge is also flush with the same flat side of the page.
Especially if you're using a two-colored sheet of paper, this step will make more sense because the form of the penguin will start to become more apparent as the black side of the page will face outward on both sides. As the project continues to take shape, these will be the wings.
11. Turn the paper over again. To prepare for the next major fold, you will need to turn the whole paper over again. When you do, you want to orient the paper so that the really narrow point is pointing upward.
12. Fold the narrow point over to the left. With the paper oriented so that the long, narrow point face up, take that point and fold it over at a 45° angle so that the point now points to the left. You'll see how this fold starts to take shape as the penguin's beak. After making the crease in this fold, return the point to the upward position.
13. Reverse-fold along the crease you just made. This step requires you to make an outside reverse fold along the crease you made in the last step. An outside reverse fold is slightly different from the earlier reverse fold. To make the fold, unfold the paper along the black side slightly, and poke your finger from the white side at the fold you made in the last step. When the creases reverse direction, simply reform the fold so that the two black sides of the sheet are in contact again.
Once again, reverse folds can be a bit difficult to describe.
14. Fold the wing over. Though clearly visible now, the wings won't quite look perfect yet. Take the wing on the side facing up and fold it over so that the white side faces out. You'll fold it back so that the corner which was facing the bottom left now points to the right. Pull it back far enough so that it's just shy of where the little tail is at the bottom of the paper.[
15. Fold the wing back over on itself. Once you've made the crease from the previous step, fold the wing back over on itself so that the black side is once again facing up. Fold it so that the tip of the corner is just shy of touching the horizontal white edge at the bottom of the body.
16. Makes a rabbit's ear fold. To make the rabbit's ear fold, lift the portion of the wing you just folder and reverse the crease from the last step, but only at the bottom of the crease and only at the depth of roughly the tip of your finger. This will makes the bottom tip of the wing into a little flap though the flat edge will still be parallel to the rest of the wing.
17. Repeat steps 14-16 for the other wing. With one wing complete, you're ready to turn the page over and repeat the same steps to form the other wing. Simply use the same folds from steps 14-16 but on the other side.
18. Tuck in the points at the bottom. The bottom of the penguin will still have points sticking out in a slightly misshapen way. Fold each of these points toward the inside of the penguin to make a flat, horizontal bottom to the body. Once you tuck these flaps up, you have your penguin!
Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!
Steps.
1. Purchase origami paper. This method calls for just a single sheet of 6” x 6” origami paper. If you want a larger penguin, then you can easily go for 12” x 12” paper, but you'll have to multiply any directions containing measurements by two. If you want an even better looking penguin, buy paper that is white on one side and black on the other.
2. Fold diagonal creases along the middle. To start, you want to place the sheet of origami paper flat (with the white side facing up if you have paper with a black side as well). Then fold the paper in half diagonally so the bottom left corner is flush with the top right corner and make a crease. Unfold the paper and do the same with the opposite corners, and then unfold the page again.
When you unfold the sheet again, you will have creases forming a large X across the page.
3. Fold the lower left corner to the center. With the page flat again and the large creases making an X, you will then take the lower left corner of the paper and fold it so that the tip of the corner touches the center of the page. In other words, the corner edge will touch the center of the X made by the earlier creases. Flatten the folded portion and make another crease, then open the sheet so it's flat again.
4. Fold the upper right corner to the crease you just made. You will now have the large X crease as well as a smaller diagonal crease in the lower left of the page. Take the top right corner of the page and fold it over so that it touches the lower left crease. Then open the page once more.
5. Turn the page over. For the next set of folds, you'll need to turn the page over. If you have two-colored paper, this means that the black side will now faces up. When you turn the paper over, orient it diagonally so that the current lower left corner now points up.
6. Fold the left corner to the right corner. With the paper in the new orientation, take the corner pointing left and fold the paper in half so that it's flush with the corner pointing right. There will already be a crease here from when you made this fold on the other side of the sheet, but you'll need to crease it in the opposite direction when you fold it over.
7. Fold the bottom corner over to the right. From the last step, the sheet will now look like a triangle with the side on the left forming a vertical line. Take the corner of the triangle that points down and fold it across at a 45° angle. Fold it so that the horizontal edge made at the top of the fold touches the lower crease already on this part of the page—not the middle crease but the one below it. Once you've made the crease from this fold, turn the flap back over so that you have the same triangle shape you started with.
8. Reverse-fold the corner along the crease you just made. A reverse fold is a bit more three-dimensional than the other folds you've made so far. In order to make the reverse fold, take the crease you just made and crease it in the opposite direction, but make the crease by folding and tucking the corner into the paper.
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Blow up a balloon, tear newspaper into strips, and make a papier-mâché paste. Blow up a balloon to your desired size. Next, tear some newspaper into narrow strips, about 1 by 3 in (2.5 by 7.6 cm). Lastly, prepare your preferred papier-mâché glue or paste.
The most popular papier-mâché paste is just 1 part water and 1 part PVA glue (white school glue).
Start with just 1 or 2 sheets of newspaper; you can always make more strips.
Don't cut the strips, or the edges will be too sharp and create creases. Tearing them will give you a smoother finish.
2. Dip the strips into the paste, then apply them to the balloon. Run each strip of newspaper between your fingers after dipping it in the paste; this will remove any excess glue. Make sure that the strips are all going in the same direction as you apply them.
Overlap the strips a little, such as by 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm).
Keep the balloon in a cup or bowl so that it doesn't roll around. You may have to let 1 side of the balloon dry first before doing the other.
Leave a coin-sized space at one end of the balloon exposed so that you can pop the balloon later.
3. Apply 2 more layers of papier-mâché. You probably don't need to use the glue for the second layer; the wet strips already adhered to the balloon should be enough for the new ones to stick to. If the balloon starts to get too soggy, however, let it dry a bit, then continue working.
Consider using white tissue paper for as a fourth and final layer. This will give you a smoother base and help the paint show up better.
If you choose to use tissue paper, then make sure that you tear it into 3 by 1 in (7.6 by 2.5 cm) strips as well.
4. Let the strips dry overnight, then pop and remove the balloon. You may have to wait even longer than that, depending on how dry or humid it is in your home. In fact, it would be a good idea to poke your finger under the papier-mâché; if it feels wet, give it a little more time.
This completes your dinosaur's body.
Don't worry about the hole left by the balloon. You'll end up covering it with the dinosaur's head or tail.
5. Tape paper towel roll segments to the balloon for legs. Turn the papier-mâché balloon on its side, then use masking tape to secure the legs to the bottom.
Don't use clear tape; it won't stick to the papier-mâché.
You can also just cut 2 empty toilet paper rolls in half and use those instead.
6. Use cardboard, paper towel tubes, and foil to make the other limbs. Scrunch up aluminum foil into a ball to make a head, and then use aluminum foil shaped into a cone for the tail. The size and shape for each depends on what type of dinosaur that you're making, so look at some reference pictures. Here are some more ideas to get you started.
Triceratops: cut a round, scalloped shape out of cardboard for the fan. Use foil to make the horns.
Stegosaurus: cut triangles out of cardboard for the fins.
Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: use a paper towel tube to make the neck.
7. Tape the pieces to the body with masking tape. Take 1 of your pieces, and hold it against the balloon where you want it to go. Secure it with strips of masking tape until the seam is completely hidden. Again, don't use clear tape, because it won't hold.
Triceratops: tape the fan to the balloon first, then add the head (you may have to use hot glue to secure it). Finish by sticking the horns to the head.
Stegosaurus: tape or hot glue the head to 1 side of the body and the tail to the other. Use strips of tape to add the fins down the back and tail.
Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: tape the head to the long neck first, then tape the head to the body. Add the tail to the other side of the body.
8. Cover the pieces and the seams with more papier-mâché. Start by applying strips of papier-mâché to the seams. After that, cover the shapes themselves. If the pieces feel unstable, add more papier-mâché to the seams.
You may have to tear more strips of newspaper and prepare more papier-mâché paste for this.
Consider making some smaller strips for sharp curves and tight corners.
If the hole from when you removed the balloon is still visible, cover it up with more papier-mâché.
9. Wait for everything to dry. How long it will take for your project to dry really depends on what the weather is like. Papier-mâché will dry a lot faster on a hot, dry, sunny day than on a cold, wet, day. Be patient!
10. Paint the dinosaur as desired, then let the paint dry. Acrylic craft paint will work just fine for this, but you can use poster paint too. You can use realistic colors for your dinosaur, like gray, brown, and green, or you can use fantasy colors, like pink, purple, and blue.
For a nicer finish, paint the dinosaur white first, then let the paint dry. This will give you a clean "canvas" to work on.
Don't forget to add eyes and a mouth. You can paint the eyes, or glue googly eyes on instead.
How long it will take for the paint to dry will depend on what type of paint you're using. Plan to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
White school glue, Newspaper, Balloon, Cardboard, Aluminum foil, Empty toilet paper rolls, Masking tape, Acrylic paint or poster paint, Scissors.
Rube Goldberg (1883-1970) was a scientist and cartoonist who produced satirical work on people’s overly complex problem solving methods. In his comical cartoons, he linked together chain reactions with simple machines to complete basic tasks, like turning on a lamp or frying an egg. Designing and building a Rube Goldberg machine requires innovation and patience. While every machine is different, many builders include versions of other people's ideas, tweaking them or linking them in exciting ways.
Preparing for the Assignment or Competition.
Understand the rules. If you’re building a Rube Goldberg machine for a class or official competition, you will get a packet of information and rules. Before you plan or build your machine, read through this material carefully. While you read, identify the goal, requirements, and restrictions.
If the material is unclear, ask your teacher, parent, or an official to clarify.
If you don’t follow the rules, you may get a poor grade or be disqualified from the competition.
Select a basic task for your machine to accomplish. Rube Goldberg machines are complex structures that rely on chain reactions to execute one simple task. Before you design your machine, determine what you want the machine to do. If you are competing in a Rube Goldberg competition or completing an assignment for school, you may not have the freedom to choose this task. If can pick, consider some of the following options:
Open or close a door.
Turn on a light.
Turn off an alarm.
Pour a bowl of cereal.
Turn on a faucet.
Look for inspiration. Developing a zany, complex machine is not an easy task. Before you create your own Rube Goldberg machine, you may find it helpful to see some examples. While you should use these examples as a source of inspiration and direction, do not copy someone else’s machine. Instead of replicating these machines, make it your goal to improve, alter, or modernize them.
Designing Your Machine.
Collect your materials. Rube Goldberg machines transform traditional building materials, everyday items, and unique objects into functional pieces of equipment that work together to execute a simple task. Spend time gathering items from around your house, purchasing materials from stores, and/or hunting for unique objects at flea markets. Possible building materials include:
Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.
Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.
Not Reading the Instructions
Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.
Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric
Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.
Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle
Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.
Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle
Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.
Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots
Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.
Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness
Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.
Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread
Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.
Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen
It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.
Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils
Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.
Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted
When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.
Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame
Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.
Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction
Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).
Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing
Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.
Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting
Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.
Getting Your Project Dirty
Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.
Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type
If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.
Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching
You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.
Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly
Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.
Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight
Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.
Rushing to Fix a Mistake
If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.
Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/
Note :
Acknowledgements
This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.
Tennis balls can be used for more that just playing games. When they’re cut open, you can slide them onto furniture legs or walkers to protect your floors and move them around easier. If you cut a tennis ball in half, you can use the halves as massagers to help alleviate foot and back pain. Cutting a tennis ball is an easy process as long as you’re careful not to cut yourself!
Method 1 Cutting Tennis Balls for Furniture.
Hold the tennis ball firmly against a solid surface. Set the tennis ball on a surface that’s knife-safe, such as a cutting board. Grip the tennis ball in your non-dominant hand so the rounded edge of the seam faces up. Use your ring finger and pinky to support the back of the ball so it doesn’t roll away.
If you don’t feel comfortable holding the ball while you cut it, secure the ball in a vise grip.
Poke the blade of a utility knife through the middle of the ball. Hold the knife with your dominant hand so your index finger is along the top edge and pointing toward the blade. Carefully poke the end of your knife in between the seams until it breaks into the center of the ball.
Make sure the blade isn’t pointed toward your fingers or you could accidentally cut yourself if the knife slips.
You may also use a craft knife, but it may not be as strong as a utility knife.
Cut a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) slit in the ball. Move your blade up and down to saw through the ball’s rubber. Make a straight horizontal cut parallel to the seams that’s about 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) long. When you’re finished with the cut, pull your knife out of the ball.
Don't make your slit any longer or else it could easily fall off of furniture legs.
Rotate the ball by 90 degrees and make another slit. Turn the ball so the slit you cut is vertical when you look at it. Press the tip of the knife 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) to the left of the first slit near its midpoint. Make a horizontal cut that crosses the first slit so it forms an X-shape. Once your second slit is 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) long, take your knife out.
Tip: If you find it difficult to make one continuous cut, start your knife in the center of the first slit and make a 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) perpendicular cut. Then, rotate the ball 180 degrees and make another 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) cut that lines up with the other.
Leave the ball near a window or well-ventilated area for 1 day to dry any moisture. Sometimes, tennis balls have a small amount of moisture inside them that could damage furniture legs. Set the ball on a windowsill so the cut faces down. Let the ball dry out for about 1 day before putting it on anything.
Once the ball doesn't have an odor, it's ready to use.
Method 2 Halving a Tennis Ball.
Trace a line around the circumference of the ball. Hold the ball steady on your work surface with your non-dominant hand. Draw a straight line in the direction you want to cut on top of the ball with a pen. Rotate the ball when you need to continue your line around its surface. Make sure the ends of your line meet so you know it’s straight.
If a pen doesn’t work on your tennis ball, use a marker. The marker line will be noticeable when you finish your cut.
Hold the ball from above against a hard surface. Set the ball on a cutting board or another surface where you can easily use a knife. Hold the ball with your non-dominant hand so all of your fingers are gripping it. Keep 3 fingers on the front of the ball, and support the back side with your pinky and thumb. Make sure your cut line is between your front and back fingers.
Imagine your hand is a claw so you’re only grabbing the ball with the ends of your fingers.
Start your cut with a serrated knife. Feed the blade of your knife underneath your hand so it’s between your front and back fingers. Use firm pressure as you saw back and forth along the cut line. Continue cutting until you’re halfway through the ball before removing your knife.
Stay attentive while you make your cut so you don’t accidentally hurt yourself.
Warning: This cut will dull your knives if you plan on cutting multiple tennis balls.
Rotate the ball to finish making your cut. Turn the ball by 90 degrees along the line you drew and hold it firmly again. Stick the blade of your knife into the cut you started and continue working along the line you drew. Keep rotating the ball by 90 degrees and cutting until it’s halved.
Turning the ball makes it easier to cut and helps ensure you’re halves are the same size.
Finished.
Warnings.
Never cut toward your fingers or else you may hurt yourself.
There are several fun ways to create a paper dog, and luckily all of them require very few materials! Create a fun miniature dog that can stand on its own legs out of origami paper, or make a folded dog face with a playful expression. You could even make paper dog hand puppets to play with!
Method 1 Folding an Origami Dog.
1. Select a piece of origami paper for your dog. Depending on what you have available, choose either a 3 by 3 in (7.6 by 7.6 cm), 6 by 6 in (15 by 15 cm), or 10 by 10 in (25 by 25 cm) piece of paper. The bigger the sheet of paper, the bigger your dog will be. Brown, tan, or white are common dog colors, but don’t hesitate to choose something more unconventional for your origami creation.
If you don’t have origami paper, use something else that is thin and easy to fold, like newspaper, magazine pages, or even wrapping paper. Cut the substitute into the right dimensions so you have a perfectly square piece of paper.
2. Fold the square of paper in half to create a triangle. Take the top-left corner and fold it across so it meets the bottom-right corner, forming a triangle shape. Run your finger along the fold to create a crease.
Use the back of your nail or something hard, like the body of a pen, to make your crease lines more defined.
3. Open the square back up and fold it in half diagonally the other way. Unfold the paper so it is a square again. Make another triangle by folding the top-right corner across to the bottom-left corner. Press down along the fold line to make another crease.
It’s really important in origami to have straight, defined creases. That is what enables your creation to stand upright once you’ve finished.
4. Unfold the square again and place it in front of you. Open up the piece of paper and set it in front of you. Make the bottom of the square parallel to your body.
There should be an “X” formed by the creases on the unfolded piece of paper.
5. Bring the bottom-left corner to the center point of the square and fold. With the square unfolded in front of you, take the bottom-left corner and place its tip in the center of the square, where the 2 creases intersect to create an “X”. Press the fold down to make a crease.
Making firm creases will also keep the folded pieces of paper in place while you work on other sections. Otherwise, you might risk things coming undone and losing your place in your project.
6. Repeat the previous step to bring all the corners to the center. One at a time, take each remaining corner (top left, top right, bottom right) and fold them so their points are in the center of the square. Fold and press down the crease for each corner.
Essentially, this step turns the original square into a smaller square. All the sides should still be equal to one another.
You will now have left, top, right, and bottom sides, with all points meeting in the middle of the square.
7. Open the left flap, fold it in half, and then fold it back in place. Unfold the left-hand side piece of paper. Fold the point in half, so that the tip of it meets the intersection of your previous fold line. Then fold the entire left flap back into place.
There should be an open triangle when you look down at your square.
8. Take the tip of the right flap and fold it back to overlap the edge line. Leave the flap folded to the center point. Take the tip of the corner that is in the center, and fold it back about 2/3rds of the way. Make your crease so that the top forms a triangle that overhangs the outer edge of the square.
Leave the top and bottom flaps in place and don’t do anything to them at this point.
This fold will eventually become the dog’s tail.
9. Fold the entire square in half lengthwise. Pick up the piece of paper. Fold it in half evenly, lengthwise, to create the left and right sides of your origami dog. When the fold is done, set the paper down in front of you so that the pointy tail is pointing to the right.
Take your time when lining up the center fold. If the lines aren’t straight, your dog will be wobbly.
10. Unfold the top flap and crease it from the top-left to bottom-right corner. Unfold the flap of paper from the top section of the dog so that its point is pointing toward your body. Then fold the entire section of paper up, and create a diagonal fold that starts at the top-left corner and finishes at the bottom-right corner.
At this point in the folding process, you’re making the dog’s head and legs.
11. Refold the right edge along the crease line. After making the diagonal fold, take the point of the piece of paper you just folded up, and bring it back down along the original crease line. This creates the slant of the dog’s “leg.”
The bottom edge should be in line with the ground if you were to pretend to stand it up.
12. Repeat the previous 2 steps on the opposite side. Flip the piece of paper over. Unfold the flap of paper and make a diagonal fold from the top-right corner to the bottom-left corner. Then fold the paper back down along its original crease line to form the other leg.
Even though you’re nearing the end, remember to take your time and make your folds as straight and defined as you can.
13. Pull out the fold inside the dog’s “nose.” When you look at the piece of paper, you should now see the dog’s tail, body, triangle legs, and triangle head. Look under the dog’s nose and carefully pull out the fold. This creates the dog’s mouth and gives it a more realistic look.
The crease line creates a jawline for the dog.
14. Draw a nose and eyes onto the dog to complete it. Take a marker and put an eye on each side of the dog, as well as a nose. For the nose, just fill in the area around the front tip of the head. You could also draw a little smile or any other embellishments you feel are appropriate.
Once you get the hang of the pattern, you can make an origami dog in just a few minutes.
Method 2 Creating a Dog Head.
1. Choose a piece of origami paper for your project. Origami-specific paper comes in squares, which means it’s ready to use and you don’t need to cut it at all. The larger the piece of paper you choose, the bigger the dog head will be. Choose a color for your dog, whether that is brown, black, white, tan, or an unconventional color, like blue or green.
If you don’t have origami paper, cut a thin sheet of paper, like newspaper or wrapping paper, into a square.
2. Fold the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner to make a triangle. Match up the 2 corners so that the sides are equal. Press the fold down firmly to create a crease.
To help crease the paper, push the fold down with the back of your nail or with the body of a pen. The stronger the crease, the better definition your dog head will have.
3. Bring the 2 bottom corners together to make a smaller triangle. Leave your first fold in place. Bring the bottom points together and make another fold to form a smaller triangle.
Take your time when making your folds and line up the edges neatly.
4. Unfold the triangle once, and place it so the tip is pointing at your body. Undo the last fold you did so that just the large triangle is left. Position the paper so that the top of the triangle is pointing at you.
You’ll use the center crease as a guide for your future folds.
5. Make a diagonal fold on the right-hand side, starting at the center crease. Make a bigger fold for bigger dog ears or a smaller fold for smaller ears. Make the crease start at the center line and fold the right-side corner down at a diagonal angle.
Keep the fold lined up with the center crease to create a proportional face.
6. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side. Try your best to create the same angle so that your dog’s ears are the same size. Start the diagonal fold at the center-crease line.
When you look down at your paper, you should see a very angular-looking dog head.
7. Fold back the bottom and top points to create straight lines. Fold back the top tip of the dog’s head just enough so that there is a flat line connecting the 2 ears. Fold the bottom tip back to create a jaw line for the dog.
If you need to, use a little bit of glue or double-sided tape to secure the points to the back of the dog’s head.
8. Draw the rest of the dog’s features to complete your project. Use a black marker to draw eyes, a nose, and a mouth on the paper. You can get as detailed as you want to, but for basic features, make circles for eyes and an upside-down triangle for the nose. For the mouth, make a “J” attached to a backwards “J” coming out of the tip of the dog’s nose.
You can get as creative as you’d like with designing the dog’s face. Try making spots on the ears or giving it whiskers or a tongue.
Method 3 Making a Hand Puppet.
1. Fold a piece of paper lengthwise into 3 equal sections. Use a piece of construction paper or computer paper, or anything that comes close in size to 8.5 by 11 in (22 by 28 cm). This piece of paper will be the dog’s head, so use whatever color you’d like for that. White works well, but brown, black, or even an unconventional color, like red, would be fine.
Avoid using really thin paper for this craft. You’ll be sticking your hands into the folds, so it needs to be a little thicker to hold up.
2. Glue the last fold down with your glue stick. To help your craft stay together, apply some glue to the back of the last fold. Press it down so it adheres to the other side.
Glue sticks work great because they don’t take long to dry. If you don’t have a glue stick, try using double-sided tape.
3. Fold the paper in half so the “seam” is on the outside. Bring the short ends of the paper together, making a crease in the middle. Fold the paper so that the side you just glued is facing up.
If you accidentally fold it the wrong way the first time, that’s okay. Just unfold it and reverse the direction.
4. Fold the open edge to the bottom crease on each side. On each side of the paper, take the top edge and fold it back so it’s in line with the bottom, and make a crease. After you’ve done this on each side, hold up the paper and check that it makes an “M.”
The top and bottom sections are where you’ll place your fingers to make the puppet talk.
5. Cut out the dog’s ears and tongue and glue them into place. Use different colors of construction paper to cut out oblong shapes for the ears and tongue. Use your glue stick to attach them to the paper. Place the tongue inside the “mouth” and glue the ears on the top of the paper, one on each side of the head.
For example, if you used white paper for the dog’s head, use red paper for the tongue and black paper for the ears.
6.Draw on the eyes and nose to complete your puppet. Use a black marker to draw circles for eyes and an upside down triangle for the nose. You could even put 3 small dots on either side of the nose to make whiskers. Use your imagination and enjoy the decoration process!
To use the hand puppet, simply put your thumb in the bottom flap and your fingers in the top flap. When you open and close your hand, the dog’s mouth will open and close, too.
Tips
Take your time when creating a new craft! It can take a while to get the hang of things, but keep at it and you’ll be able to make various paper dogs in no time.
If you get a paper cut, rinse it off with warm water and mild soap, and put a bandaid around it to keep it clean.
