More often than not, cats can be found lounging in the sun or snoozing the day away. But don’t let them fool you—they love to play. Cats love climbing, chasing, and jumping just as much as any other pet.
But all the climbing and scratching can lead to wear and tear. Instead of sacrificing your beloved couch or armchair, find some enriching toys to give your feline to keep them happy and healthy. That way, everyone can live in peace.
While perusing the pet store shelves, you may notice that most toys, treats, and beds are lacking in style. For some reason, a lot of pet products are behind the curve when it comes to aesthetically pleasing design. With DIY, you can maintain your dream home’s modern decor while giving your pet everything you need.
This DIY scratching post is sure to please your furry friend. Plus, it will look great hanging on your wall! Say goodbye to boring beige cat furniture.
Gather Your Supplies
This DIY requires a few easy-to-find supplies. To make it even more budget-friendly, head to a second-hand store to find a frame. You can easily upcycle it at a low cost.
Here’s what you’ll need:
Small rug
Scissors
Measuring tape
11" x 14" picture frame
Measure and Cut Your Rug
You may not even have to head to the store to find the carpet material for this project. If you remodeled your home, you likely already have some leftover carpet in the garage.
But if not, you can find carpet samples at local carpet retailers. Or you can use an indoor/outdoor decorative rug (like the one we used), a door mat, or even a bath rug. Just be sure your material isn’t unraveled or damaged—that’s the cat’s job.
Before using your scissors to cut your carpet, use a measuring tape to measure the size of the picture frame. Then, use those measurements to cut a rectangular section of your carpet that will fit perfectly inside the picture frame. If the first try isn’t perfect, just keep trimming away.
Your regular pair of scissors will sometimes work for this, but it depends on the material you use. If it’s difficult to cut with scissors, try using sharp shears.
Secure in Frame
Once you have cut your material to match the size of your frame, it’s time to secure them together.
First, remove the sample photo and glass cover from your picture frame. These parts aren’t necessary and you can keep them for future crafts or recycle them if you have no use for them.
If your picture frame has a kickstand on the back, it may be necessary to remove it. This frame will be hung on the wall and a kickstand on the back may make it too bulky, causing it to stick out when it’s hung up.
Secure your piece of rug or carpet inside your picture frame. Be sure to apply the cardboard backing piece that came with the frame onto the back to make sure things stay in place.
Display
The moment we’ve all been waiting for is here! Now that your DIY is finished, you’ve got an adorable piece of wall decor that looks great and satisfies your kitty to no end. Every cat will appreciate this fun toy. And when it wears out, just replace the material inside to keeping things looking new.
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Acknowledgements
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Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.
Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.
Not Reading the Instructions
Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.
Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric
Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.
Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle
Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.
Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle
Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.
Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots
Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.
Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness
Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.
Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread
Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.
Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen
It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.
Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils
Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.
Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted
When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.
Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame
Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.
Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction
Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).
Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing
Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.
Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting
Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.
Getting Your Project Dirty
Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.
Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type
If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.
Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching
You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.
Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly
Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.
Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight
Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.
Rushing to Fix a Mistake
If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.
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Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.
Prepping the Wood.
Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.
Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.
Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.
It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.
Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.
Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.
Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4
Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.
Painting and Sealing the Wood.
Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.
You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.
Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.
Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.
Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.
Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.
Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.
Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.
Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.
If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.
Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.
Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.
If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.
If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.
Trying Other Techniques.
Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.
Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.
You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.
You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.
Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.
If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.
If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.
Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.
The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.
Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.
Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.
Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.
You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.
Tips.
You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.
Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!
It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.
You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.
Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.
Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.
Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.
You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.
Warnings.
Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.
Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.
Things You'll.
Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).
