how to make a paper penguin using an origami penguin

How to Make a Paper Penguin Using an Origami Penguin.

Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!

Steps.

1. Purchase origami paper. This method calls for just a single sheet of 6” x 6” origami paper. If you want a larger penguin, then you can easily go for 12” x 12” paper, but you'll have to multiply any directions containing measurements by two. If you want an even better looking penguin, buy paper that is white on one side and black on the other.

2. Fold diagonal creases along the middle. To start, you want to place the sheet of origami paper flat (with the white side facing up if you have paper with a black side as well). Then fold the paper in half diagonally so the bottom left corner is flush with the top right corner and make a crease. Unfold the paper and do the same with the opposite corners, and then unfold the page again.

When you unfold the sheet again, you will have creases forming a large X across the page.

3. Fold the lower left corner to the center. With the page flat again and the large creases making an X, you will then take the lower left corner of the paper and fold it so that the tip of the corner touches the center of the page. In other words, the corner edge will touch the center of the X made by the earlier creases. Flatten the folded portion and make another crease, then open the sheet so it's flat again.

4. Fold the upper right corner to the crease you just made. You will now have the large X crease as well as a smaller diagonal crease in the lower left of the page. Take the top right corner of the page and fold it over so that it touches the lower left crease. Then open the page once more.

5. Turn the page over. For the next set of folds, you'll need to turn the page over. If you have two-colored paper, this means that the black side will now faces up. When you turn the paper over, orient it diagonally so that the current lower left corner now points up.

6. Fold the left corner to the right corner. With the paper in the new orientation, take the corner pointing left and fold the paper in half so that it's flush with the corner pointing right. There will already be a crease here from when you made this fold on the other side of the sheet, but you'll need to crease it in the opposite direction when you fold it over.

7. Fold the bottom corner over to the right. From the last step, the sheet will now look like a triangle with the side on the left forming a vertical line. Take the corner of the triangle that points down and fold it across at a 45° angle. Fold it so that the horizontal edge made at the top of the fold touches the lower crease already on this part of the page—not the middle crease but the one below it. Once you've made the crease from this fold, turn the flap back over so that you have the same triangle shape you started with.

8. Reverse-fold the corner along the crease you just made. A reverse fold is a bit more three-dimensional than the other folds you've made so far. In order to make the reverse fold, take the crease you just made and crease it in the opposite direction, but make the crease by folding and tucking the corner into the paper.

9. Fold the top half over. With the reverse fold out of the way, you want to take the corner pointing right—just the top layer not both layers—and fold it back on itself. Fold it so that the flat side just above the corner lines up flush with the flat vertical line on the left side of the paper. Make a crease here, but do not unfold the flap. Leave it folded.

10. Turn the page over and make the same fold on the other side. You now want to turn the paper over completely and make the same fold you just made but from the other side. In other words, fold the other corner (the bottom layer from the previous step) over so that its upper edge is also flush with the same flat side of the page.

Especially if you're using a two-colored sheet of paper, this step will make more sense because the form of the penguin will start to become more apparent as the black side of the page will face outward on both sides. As the project continues to take shape, these will be the wings.

11. Turn the paper over again. To prepare for the next major fold, you will need to turn the whole paper over again. When you do, you want to orient the paper so that the really narrow point is pointing upward.

12. Fold the narrow point over to the left. With the paper oriented so that the long, narrow point face up, take that point and fold it over at a 45° angle so that the point now points to the left. You'll see how this fold starts to take shape as the penguin's beak. After making the crease in this fold, return the point to the upward position.

13. Reverse-fold along the crease you just made. This step requires you to make an outside reverse fold along the crease you made in the last step. An outside reverse fold is slightly different from the earlier reverse fold. To make the fold, unfold the paper along the black side slightly, and poke your finger from the white side at the fold you made in the last step. When the creases reverse direction, simply reform the fold so that the two black sides of the sheet are in contact again.

Once again, reverse folds can be a bit difficult to describe.

14. Fold the wing over. Though clearly visible now, the wings won't quite look perfect yet. Take the wing on the side facing up and fold it over so that the white side faces out. You'll fold it back so that the corner which was facing the bottom left now points to the right. Pull it back far enough so that it's just shy of where the little tail is at the bottom of the paper.[

15. Fold the wing back over on itself. Once you've made the crease from the previous step, fold the wing back over on itself so that the black side is once again facing up. Fold it so that the tip of the corner is just shy of touching the horizontal white edge at the bottom of the body.

16. Makes a rabbit's ear fold. To make the rabbit's ear fold, lift the portion of the wing you just folder and reverse the crease from the last step, but only at the bottom of the crease and only at the depth of roughly the tip of your finger. This will makes the bottom tip of the wing into a little flap though the flat edge will still be parallel to the rest of the wing.

17. Repeat steps 14-16 for the other wing. With one wing complete, you're ready to turn the page over and repeat the same steps to form the other wing. Simply use the same folds from steps 14-16 but on the other side.

18. Tuck in the points at the bottom. The bottom of the penguin will still have points sticking out in a slightly misshapen way. Fold each of these points toward the inside of the penguin to make a flat, horizontal bottom to the body. Once you tuck these flaps up, you have your penguin!

Desember 22, 2019

how to make a paper penguin

How to Make a Paper Penguin.

Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!

Steps.

1. Purchase origami paper. This method calls for just a single sheet of 6” x 6” origami paper. If you want a larger penguin, then you can easily go for 12” x 12” paper, but you'll have to multiply any directions containing measurements by two. If you want an even better looking penguin, buy paper that is white on one side and black on the other.

2. Fold diagonal creases along the middle. To start, you want to place the sheet of origami paper flat (with the white side facing up if you have paper with a black side as well). Then fold the paper in half diagonally so the bottom left corner is flush with the top right corner and make a crease. Unfold the paper and do the same with the opposite corners, and then unfold the page again.

When you unfold the sheet again, you will have creases forming a large X across the page.

3. Fold the lower left corner to the center. With the page flat again and the large creases making an X, you will then take the lower left corner of the paper and fold it so that the tip of the corner touches the center of the page. In other words, the corner edge will touch the center of the X made by the earlier creases.  Flatten the folded portion and make another crease, then open the sheet so it's flat again.

4. Fold the upper right corner to the crease you just made. You will now have the large X crease as well as a smaller diagonal crease in the lower left of the page. Take the top right corner of the page and fold it over so that it touches the lower left crease. Then open the page once more.

5. Turn the page over. For the next set of folds, you'll need to turn the page over. If you have two-colored paper, this means that the black side will now faces up. When you turn the paper over, orient it diagonally so that the current lower left corner now points up.

6. Fold the left corner to the right corner. With the paper in the new orientation, take the corner pointing left and fold the paper in half so that it's flush with the corner pointing right. There will already be a crease here from when you made this fold on the other side of the sheet, but you'll need to crease it in the opposite direction when you fold it over.

7. Fold the bottom corner over to the right. From the last step, the sheet will now look like a triangle with the side on the left forming a vertical line. Take the corner of the triangle that points down and fold it across at a 45° angle. Fold it so that the horizontal edge made at the top of the fold touches the lower crease already on this part of the page—not the middle crease but the one below it. Once you've made the crease from this fold, turn the flap back over so that you have the same triangle shape you started with.

8. Reverse-fold the corner along the crease you just made. A reverse fold is a bit more three-dimensional than the other folds you've made so far. In order to make the reverse fold, take the crease you just made and crease it in the opposite direction, but make the crease by folding and tucking the corner into the paper.

Januari 22, 2020

how to make a paper bag turkey

How to Make a Paper Bag Turkey.

Looking for a fun way to celebrate this holiday season? Whether you’re crafting homemade decorations for Thanksgiving dinner or just want to get into the spirit of autumn, making a turkey from ordinary paper bags is a quick, simple and creative activity that is sure to please children and adults alike. This project only requires a few simple materials and will add a bit of thrifty Fall flair wherever it’s displayed.

Part 1 Making the Turkey.

1. Gather your materials. For this project, you’ll need only need a handful of basic items—3 brown paper bags (1 large paper grocery bag and 2 smaller standard paper bags), 1 sheet of white 8 ½” x 11” typing paper, a few sheets of newspaper, a pair of scissors and a hot glue gun or some craft glue. Any additional materials will be up to you, depending on how elaborate you want the presentation of your finished turkey to be.

Your turkey will be made of just three easy pieces: one big bag for the body, and the two smaller bags to serve as the “drumsticks.”

Making a paper bag turkey only takes a few minutes from start to finish, leaving you with plenty of time in your day to finish playing, decorating or tackling other crafting projects.

2. Form the body of the turkey. Take the large paper bag and fill it ¾ full with crumpled newspaper. This will help fill out the body, giving it a plump appearance and preventing it from collapsing once it's ready to be displayed. After the bag has been stuffed, fold the corners down diagonally and glue them in place. Tuck the folded tab down one more time and glue it to the underside of the turkey.

Shape the body of the turkey by hand until it’s smooth and round. Be sure to work out any square edges of creases from the original bag.

Be careful not to tear the bag while sealing or shaping it.

3. Shape the drumsticks. Grab the two smaller paper bags—you’ll be using these to craft the “drumsticks” of the turkey. Make one hand into a fist and stick it into each bag, molding the opening of the bag around your wrist. This will give the bag its recognizable drumstick shape. Remove your hand from the bag and fill the rounded end with newspaper. Twist the opening of each bag shut and secure it with a dab of glue.

Like the body of the turkey, the drumsticks will need to be filled in order to hold their shape.

4. Cut the booties for the drumsticks. Your drumsticks aren’t complete until they’re dressed with a pair of frilly white booties, like a traditional Thanksgiving turkey. Cut your sheet of typing paper in half lengthwise, then fold each piece in half, again lengthwise. Use your scissors to make a series of cuts in the open edge of the paper to create a neat fringe.

Try to make your cuts about ¼ inch apart.

Your cuts only need to be about half the width of the paper.

5. Put it all together. Wrap a paper bootie around the end of each drumstick and secure them with glue. Then, place the drumsticks on either side of the sealed end of the turkey and glue them down. That’s it! The result is a quirky, lifelike baked bird that you might just mistake for the real thing.

Attach the drumsticks to the tapered sides of the body where you folded down the edges of the big bag. This will give the turkey a more realistic look.

The different parts of the turkey will have a little weight to them once they’ve been filled. Use enough glue to make sure that everything holds.

Part 2 Finding Creative Ways to Present Your Turkey.

1. Put it on a platter. Arrange your paper bag turkey on a serving platter over a bed of parsley or tissue paper garnish. Surround the turkey with fallen leaves for a splash of vibrant color. With the right details, you’ll have a mouthwatering craft turkey worthy of a fantasy feast to show off to your friends and family.

If you don't have a real serving platter lying around, make your own out of cardboard, construction paper, and colored markers.

Make sure to let everyone, especially small children, know that your paper turkey is not for eating.

2. Add colorful designs. Before you fill the paper bags, decorate the outsides for a more artistic, funky finish. Use crayons, markers, washable paint, stickers or glitter and customize your turkey with polka dots, swirls or dazzling patterns using your favorite colors. Grab a friend, sibling, parent or child to decorate your turkey with, then compare and display them together when you’re done.

If you’re using paint or a felt-tip marker that might saturate the paper bags, allow them to dry before stuffing or shaping them.

When making paper turkeys with your kids or students, have them write down one thing they’re thankful for somewhere on the big bag.

3. Fill it with “stuffing.” For an unexpected tasty twist, ditch the newspaper and fill your turkey with popcorn, candy or other easy-to-eat finger foods instead. You can then have someone “carve” the turkey by cutting a flap in the top and have something to snack on until the main course is served. This imaginative serving style is sure to be a hit at holiday parties!

Popcorn makes a simple stuffing because it’s light and takes up a lot of space, but you could use just about any snack food, like chips, pretzels or chocolates, to fill your turkey.

Try filling the drumsticks separately with caramel corn to make “dark meat.”[6]

4. Put your paper bag turkey on display. In addition to being a fun and easy project to do with your friends or loved ones, your paper turkey will make a unique arrangement for the coffee table, arts and crafts desk or kitchen counter. It will look especially good surrounded by other festive Fall decorations. Best of all, you can store the playful papercraft away or simply make a new one the next time the holiday season rolls around.

A paper bag turkey will fit nicely with other homemade holiday decorations, such as hand turkey cutouts, popsicle stick snowflakes, and construction paper pumpkins.

Tips.

This will make a great activity for parents and teachers to do alongside their children or students.

If the paper bags you’re using have any logos, writings or markings on them, carefully turn them inside out before you begin crafting.

Line the inside of your turkey with wax or parchment paper to prevent splotchy grease stains if you plan on filling it with buttered popcorn.

Make sure you have enough of whatever food item you choose to fill the large bag.

Hot glue is preferable to other adhesives because it dries quickly and creates a strong, lasting hold.

Warnings.

Take caution when working with the hot glue and scissors. Kids should ask an adult for help with the cutting and gluing portions of the project.

Staples should be avoided, as there's no way to use them to secure the different parts of the turkey without mashing them.

Things You'll Need.

3 brown paper bags (1 large and 2 small), 1 sheet white typing paper, A few sheets of crumpled newspaper.

Scissors, Hot glue or craft glue, Popcorn or other small snack foods (optional), Various decorating supplies (optional).

Desember 14, 2019

how to make a paper bag turkey

How to Make a Paper Bag Turkey.

Looking for a fun way to celebrate this holiday season? Whether you’re crafting homemade decorations for Thanksgiving dinner or just want to get into the spirit of autumn, making a turkey from ordinary paper bags is a quick, simple and creative activity that is sure to please children and adults alike. This project only requires a few simple materials and will add a bit of thrifty Fall flair wherever it’s displayed.

Part 1 Making the Turkey.

1. Gather your materials. For this project, you’ll need only need a handful of basic items—3 brown paper bags (1 large paper grocery bag and 2 smaller standard paper bags), 1 sheet of white 8 ½” x 11” typing paper, a few sheets of newspaper, a pair of scissors and a hot glue gun or some craft glue. Any additional materials will be up to you, depending on how elaborate you want the presentation of your finished turkey to be.

Your turkey will be made of just three easy pieces: one big bag for the body, and the two smaller bags to serve as the “drumsticks.”

Making a paper bag turkey only takes a few minutes from start to finish, leaving you with plenty of time in your day to finish playing, decorating or tackling other crafting projects.

2. Form the body of the turkey. Take the large paper bag and fill it ¾ full with crumpled newspaper. This will help fill out the body, giving it a plump appearance and preventing it from collapsing once it's ready to be displayed. After the bag has been stuffed, fold the corners down diagonally and glue them in place. Tuck the folded tab down one more time and glue it to the underside of the turkey.

Shape the body of the turkey by hand until it’s smooth and round. Be sure to work out any square edges of creases from the original bag.

Be careful not to tear the bag while sealing or shaping it.

3. Shape the drumsticks. Grab the two smaller paper bags—you’ll be using these to craft the “drumsticks” of the turkey. Make one hand into a fist and stick it into each bag, molding the opening of the bag around your wrist. This will give the bag its recognizable drumstick shape. Remove your hand from the bag and fill the rounded end with newspaper. Twist the opening of each bag shut and secure it with a dab of glue.

Like the body of the turkey, the drumsticks will need to be filled in order to hold their shape.

4. Cut the booties for the drumsticks. Your drumsticks aren’t complete until they’re dressed with a pair of frilly white booties, like a traditional Thanksgiving turkey. Cut your sheet of typing paper in half lengthwise, then fold each piece in half, again lengthwise. Use your scissors to make a series of cuts in the open edge of the paper to create a neat fringe.

Try to make your cuts about ¼ inch apart.

Your cuts only need to be about half the width of the paper.

5. Put it all together. Wrap a paper bootie around the end of each drumstick and secure them with glue. Then, place the drumsticks on either side of the sealed end of the turkey and glue them down. That’s it! The result is a quirky, lifelike baked bird that you might just mistake for the real thing.

Attach the drumsticks to the tapered sides of the body where you folded down the edges of the big bag. This will give the turkey a more realistic look.

The different parts of the turkey will have a little weight to them once they’ve been filled. Use enough glue to make sure that everything holds.

Part 2 Finding Creative Ways to Present Your Turkey.

1. Put it on a platter. Arrange your paper bag turkey on a serving platter over a bed of parsley or tissue paper garnish. Surround the turkey with fallen leaves for a splash of vibrant color. With the right details, you’ll have a mouthwatering craft turkey worthy of a fantasy feast to show off to your friends and family.

If you don't have a real serving platter lying around, make your own out of cardboard, construction paper, and colored markers.

Make sure to let everyone, especially small children, know that your paper turkey is not for eating.

2. Add colorful designs. Before you fill the paper bags, decorate the outsides for a more artistic, funky finish. Use crayons, markers, washable paint, stickers or glitter and customize your turkey with polka dots, swirls or dazzling patterns using your favorite colors. Grab a friend, sibling, parent or child to decorate your turkey with, then compare and display them together when you’re done.

If you’re using paint or a felt-tip marker that might saturate the paper bags, allow them to dry before stuffing or shaping them.

When making paper turkeys with your kids or students, have them write down one thing they’re thankful for somewhere on the big bag.

3. Fill it with “stuffing.” For an unexpected tasty twist, ditch the newspaper and fill your turkey with popcorn, candy or other easy-to-eat finger foods instead. You can then have someone “carve” the turkey by cutting a flap in the top and have something to snack on until the main course is served. This imaginative serving style is sure to be a hit at holiday parties!

Popcorn makes a simple stuffing because it’s light and takes up a lot of space, but you could use just about any snack food, like chips, pretzels or chocolates, to fill your turkey.

Try filling the drumsticks separately with caramel corn to make “dark meat.”[6]

4. Put your paper bag turkey on display. In addition to being a fun and easy project to do with your friends or loved ones, your paper turkey will make a unique arrangement for the coffee table, arts and crafts desk or kitchen counter. It will look especially good surrounded by other festive Fall decorations. Best of all, you can store the playful papercraft away or simply make a new one the next time the holiday season rolls around.

A paper bag turkey will fit nicely with other homemade holiday decorations, such as hand turkey cutouts, popsicle stick snowflakes, and construction paper pumpkins.

Tips.

This will make a great activity for parents and teachers to do alongside their children or students.

If the paper bags you’re using have any logos, writings or markings on them, carefully turn them inside out before you begin crafting.

Line the inside of your turkey with wax or parchment paper to prevent splotchy grease stains if you plan on filling it with buttered popcorn.

Make sure you have enough of whatever food item you choose to fill the large bag.

Hot glue is preferable to other adhesives because it dries quickly and creates a strong, lasting hold.

Warnings.

Take caution when working with the hot glue and scissors. Kids should ask an adult for help with the cutting and gluing portions of the project.

Staples should be avoided, as there's no way to use them to secure the different parts of the turkey without mashing them.

Things You'll Need.

3 brown paper bags (1 large and 2 small).

1 sheet white typing paper.

A few sheets of crumpled newspaper.

Scissors.

Hot glue or craft glue.

Popcorn or other small snack foods (optional).

Various decorating supplies (optional).

Januari 27, 2020

how to paint wood crafts

How to Paint Wood Crafts.

Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.





Prepping the Wood.



Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.

Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.



Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.

It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.



Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.

Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.

Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4



Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.







Painting and Sealing the Wood.



Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.

You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.



Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.

Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.

Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.



Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.

Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.



Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.

Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.

If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.



Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.



Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.

If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.

If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.







Trying Other Techniques.



Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.



Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.

You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.

You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.



Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.

If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.

If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.



Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.

The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.

Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.



Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.

Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.

You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.





Tips.

You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.

Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!

It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.

You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.

Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.

Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.

Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.

You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.



Warnings.

Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.

Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.



Things You'll.

Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).

140 to 180-grit sandpaper

Primer.

Acrylic paint.

Paintbrushes.

Sealer.

November 10, 2019

easy kid craft

easy kid craft

One of the #1 things that people often say to me is, “I would love to make creative projects with my kids, but I’m just not crafty. I don’t even know where to start!” My reply is always, “Trust me, you do NOT need to consider yourself ‘crafty’ to start getting creative with your children!”  There are hundreds upon hundreds of craft projects that you can make with your children that require NO special skills or tools and that take less than half an hour of your time. In fact, most of these 50+ quick and easy kids craft project ideas that I’ve rounded up here actually take less than FIFTEEN minutes to make!



WHY CRAFT WITH YOUR KIDS?

A recent study by Dr. Richard Rende revealed that creative interaction between parents and young children engaging in activities like arts and crafts not only provides immediate and lasting cognitive benefits but also creates a unique bonding experience, which creates lifelong memories. Taking time to be creative with your children is a topic that I am incredibly passionate about. I know firsthand the benefits that children reap when they are exposed to arts and crafts activities, and in an age where arts are in a decline in the school systems, it is even more important than ever for parents to take the initiative to introduce art activities to their children.



Other key findings of Dr. Rende’s study showed that:



• Arts and crafts engage multiple brain areas simultaneously and

improve bilateral coordination between the left and right sides of

the brain, leading to immediate and future cognitive development.



• Activities like arts and crafts accelerate the development of muscles

in the hands and fingers, improving fine motor skills that are

essential for school success in the earliest formal years.



• Face-to-face interaction in the early years is critical for optimal

social development.



• Arts and crafts promote rich social interactions that help develop

language skills and social cognitive abilities like understanding

emotions.



• Creative activities are a great way to bond with children and create

lasting memories.



Nearly 90% of the parents surveyed for the study said that they would like to spend more time creating arts and crafts with their children, but they didn’t know where to start or how to carve out the time needed.



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Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





craft handmade, 5 minute craft, craft game, craft paper, craft meaning, craft apk, craft ideas, craft indonesia, diy craft paper, diy craft tutorial, diy craft youtube, diy craft indonesia, diy craft wood, diy craft room, diy crafts to sell, diy creative

November 01, 2019

how to organize craft supplies

How to Organize Craft Supplies.

If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.







Steps.



1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.

If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.

Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.



2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.

Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.

Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.

Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.



3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.

Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.

Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,



4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.

Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.

If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.

Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.



5. Keep on sorting.

Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.

Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.



6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.

Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.

For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.



7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.



8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.



9. Finished.





Tips.

Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.

Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.

Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.

Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.

Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.

Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.

Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.

Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.

Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.



Things You'll Need.

Craft supplies.

Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.

Paper to label the containers.

November 21, 2019

how to make colored salt

How to Make Colored Salt.

Colored salt is used for art and craft, for decoration, for teaching skills with writing or drawing, and for making rangoli for Diwali. It's easy to make, and depending on the exact items in your craft or kitchen cupboard, you might even be able to make it without buying a thing.







Coloring Salt with Paint.



Fill a container with salt. A jug or pitcher, a deep bowl, a plastic food container, etc. will all suffice.



Squeeze a little tempera paint into the salt.



Mix with a spoon or other item. Stir until the paint is evenly distributed through the salt.



Let stand overnight to dry.

Make as many more colors as you need for your project. That way, they'll all be ready at the same time.



Test before using. Check that the salt has dried before using in your craft, rangoli, teaching, etc. projects.









Coloring Salt with Liquid Food Coloring.



Use liquid food coloring for this method. Choose a color or colors that you wish to work with.



Tip the salt into a resealable bag.



Add the liquid food coloring to the salt. It's recommended that you do this gradually, a drop at a time, so that you can intensify the color as needed and stop when you're happy with it. The more drops added, the more intense the color.



Carefully press the air from the resealable bag without losing the salt. Seal. Wait for around a minute before proceeding, to give the salt time to settle.

Image titled Make Colored Salt Step 10

5

Press down on the bag again and again. This will move the coloring around all of the salt. Knead until you can see that the color has permeated all of the salt in the plastic bag.



Done. The salt is now ready for use. If you see any salt that is damp, let it dry before use, by allowing air into the bag and waiting a few hours more.

If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.







Coloring Salt with Gel Food Coloring.



For this method, use gel-based food coloring. You should find it dries instantly and won't leave any liquid, which may be the case with liquid food coloring.



Tip the salt into a resealable bag.



Add the gel food coloring. Transfer the gel using an implement such as a wooden or metallic skewer tip, the end of a butter knife or a toothpick. Only use a small amount at a time, adding a little more if you're not yet satisfied with the color. Gel coloring is fairly vibrant with just a little amount, so you don't want to overdo it.



Carefully press down on the bag to remove excess air. Seal tightly.



Shake or knead the color throughout the bag. Ensure that all of the salt is evenly colored.



Done. Given that this is gel, the colored salt should be ready to use immediately.

If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.







Coloring Salt with Chalk.



Choose a chalk color that you wish to use. Chalks come in a range of pastel and bright colors, depending on where you buy them from. Check art, craft or upmarket toy stores for a wider variety than you might find in traditional stationery or dollar stores.



Cover the workspace with a large sheet of paper.



Pour the salt onto the paper. The amount of salt depends on the amount you need.



Place the piece of chalk on its side, on the salt. Roll the chalk back and forth over the salt on the paper. As you do this, the color from the chalk will color the salt. Keep rolling until you're happy with the color.



Using the paper as a funnel, pour the chalk-colored salt into a resealable bag or a storage container.



Done. The colored salt is now ready to use, or you can store it until needed.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.



Tips.

A rolling pin can be used to distribute the color for the resealable bag color-distributing methods; ensure that there is no air in the bag and roll it up and down until the salt is evenly colored.

Keep colored salt in an airtight container when not in use. Make sure that the lid is on firmly, to prevent spilling it.

For a bath treat, add some essential oil drops as well as the colorant.

If making a lot of colored salt in varied colors, use clean food containers to free up the usual kitchen containers for your cooking and eating.



Warnings.

While these crafts are non-toxic, they are very messy. As such, they are best either supervised carefully or done by older children and adults.



Things You'll Need.

Salt (sea salt, rock salt, table salt, Epsom salts, etc. are all fine to use).

Container for holding salt or a resealable bag.

Colorant.

Stirring implement (such as a spoon, a skewer, a chopstick, etc.).

Storage container (if relevant).

November 17, 2019

how to make shrinky dinks

How to Make Shrinky Dinks.

Shrinky Dinks are popular arts-and-crafts plastic sheets that people use to create designs. They saw great popularity with children in the 1980s. Shrinky Dinks are still sold by many major retailers and online commerce sites. You can use them to create colorful art or even jewelry. It’s also possible to make homemade versions of the plastic designs.

Part 1 Creating a Design with Shrinky Dinks.

1. Draw, trace or copy an image onto a Shrinky Dinks plastic sheet. Shrinky Dinks are usually sold as 8-inch by 10-inch plastic sheets.

Use colored pencils, markers, and ink on Shrinky Dinks. Use the colored pencil on the rough side of the sheets, and use Sharpie or permanent marker on the smooth side. Some Shrinky Dinks come pre-cut and with designs already outlined on them, and others will just be the plastic sheets.

Don’t use oily or waxy substances like crayons or oil paint on Shrinky Dinks because they will melt in high heat. Some sheets are machine-sanded frosted sheets that usually come in packs of 10. Some Shrinky Dinks come as non-sanded sheets, though; that version requires permanent markers.

Printing from a computer directly onto a sheet is also possible, and works great with photos. Print letters in a mirror image so they can be read from the nicer shiny side once shrunk. Tracing is popular as well.

2. Cut a design or punch holes in the plastic. You may want to add decorative edges to the plastic, cut out your design, or punch holes in it to make it into a necklace or charms for a bracelet.

Use paper punches if you want holes in the plastic. You might want holes if you are making jewelry or just for decoration. Punch any holes before you bake the Shrinky Dinks.

Cut out your design with decorative or regular scissors.

Part 2 Baking the Shrinky Dinks.

1. Line a cookie sheet tray with non-stick aluminum foil or baking paper. You could also create a mock tray by folding aluminum foil.

Place the Shrinky Dink cut-out designs on the tray, rough side up. Leave space between the Shrinky Dink plastic shapes or they might stick together.

Ovens should only be used with adult supervision.

2. Preheat the oven at 325 degrees Fahrenheit. You probably only need to pre-heat the oven for 1 to 3 minutes. You can use a toaster oven or a conventional oven.

Once the oven is preheated, put the tray with the Shrinky Dinks into the oven.

You only need to bake them for 1 to 3 minutes. At first the Shrinky Dinks will curl up, but they will flatten back out. Once they flatten back out, bake for 30 more seconds.

3. Remove the tray from oven. Use a potholder so you don’t burn yourself, and be careful.

You could flatten your Shrinky Dinks more by pressing them flat with folded paper. However, this step may not be necessary.

Let the Shrinky Dinks cool for a few minutes before handling them. The finished piece will shrink to 1/3 the original’s size, but it will become 9 times thicker. The artwork will be brighter and bolder, and you can more easily preserve it.

Part 3 Making Homemade Plastic Designs.

1. Obtain a piece of #6 plastic. For example, this is the kind of plastic often used in salad bar containers.

Look for a “6” on the bottom of the plastic. The plastic needs to be relatively thick to work.

Cut away the extra plastic until you are left with a flat square.

2. Draw your design on the plastic, using permanent marker. It’s best with this kind of plastic not to use colored pencils.

Once baked, the image will shrink to about a third of its size and will increase in thickness.

Cut your design out and/or punch holes in it. Round the corners a bit as edges may sharpen upon baking.

3. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Put the rack in the lowest oven position. The reason the plastic works for designs is because it’s made out of polystyrene just as Shrinky Dinks are.

Make a tray out of aluminum foil by folding it until it’s thick enough to hold the plastic. Put the plastic designs on the tray.

Bake for about 3.5 minutes. The plastic will curl, and then straighten itself out. Remove, and allow to cool.

4. Finished.

November 29, 2019

20 common embroidery mistakes

20 common embroidery mistakes

Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.



Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.



Not Reading the Instructions

Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.



Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric

Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.



Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle

Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.



Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle

Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.



Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots

Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with ​a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.



Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness

Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.



Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread

Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.



Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen

It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.



Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils

Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.



Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted

When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.



Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame

Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.



Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction

Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).



Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing

Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.



Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting

Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.



Getting Your Project Dirty

Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.



Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type​​

If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.



Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching

You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.



Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly

Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.



Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight​​

Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.



Rushing to Fix a Mistake

If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.



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Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





craft handmade, 5 minute craft, craft game, craft paper, craft meaning, craft apk, craft ideas, craft indonesia, diy craft paper, diy craft tutorial, diy craft youtube, diy craft indonesia, diy craft wood, diy craft room, diy crafts to sell, diy creative

November 01, 2019

how to get ideas for crafts and projects

How to Get Ideas for Crafts and Projects.

Crafters, makers and builders create beautiful items out of raw materials. If you are a crafter that is unable to think of your next project, there are many ways that you can get new ideas. Crafting is one of the most popular subjects of blogs, magazines, classes and more, and its popularity has only risen as the Internet has become an easy way to share methods, techniques and projects. Depending upon how you like to learn, you can choose the most comfortable option. Select your specific area of crafting and search for the newest crafting projects using these avenues. Read more to find out how to get ideas for crafts and projects.

Steps.

1. Join a quilting bee, knitting circle or scrap booking club. Monthly meetings give the opportunities for exchanging ideas, showing off projects and doing group projects.

This is also a great way to meet people with similar interests and form lasting friendships. Crafting often allows you to talk to other people and learn their stories. Many rural communities have quilt guilds, knitting bees and craft circles that stay intact for decades.

2. Take night classes. Most cities have a group that is devoted to community education and gives a catalog of classes at a small fee. These can include anything from jewelry making to scrap booking to wood working.

Search online for "Lifelong learning classes" in your town or "Community education." Most classes happen once or twice a week over a period of months and they teach you new skills and give you many ideas for projects.

3. Get a subscription to a do-it-yourself magazine. Depending upon your preferences, there are many options. Magazine subscriptions can be bought from a website, Amazon, or a magazine prescription service, and it is a good idea to look for the best offer.

Good options for crafters include Martha Stewart Living, Card Maker, This Old House, American Style, Creative Knitting, Do-It-Yourself, Ready Made, American Craft, Crafts and Hobbies, Quilter, Paper Crafts, Creative Woodwork and Crafts, Car Craft. Knit'N Style, Sew News and Creating Keepsakes.

You may want to go to a supermarket and buy a few issues of each of these magazines to decide which one would be the best monthly subscription.

4. Get involved with Blogger, WordPress and other blogging platforms. Once you have a profile you can subscribe to craft blogs and check back whenever you need a fresh idea.

You may hear of craft bloggers referred to as "choggers." Start by checking out popular blogs, such as Bakerella, Cuteable, Dollar Store Crafts, Not Martha and the Pearl Bee. There are thousands of blogs to choose from, and they may also provide an email newsletter.

5. Sign up for email newsletters from magazines like Real Simple, Better Homes and Gardens and Ready Made. They will send you weekly or monthly issues depending upon your preferences, filled with new ideas from their crafters-in-residence.

6. Inquire at local stores if they do classes. In order to drum up business, stores often provide classes for a small fee as long as you buy the materials. For instance, a knitting business may teach their patrons how to use a new set of knitting needles in order to sell more sets.

7. Go online and simply search for patterns or templates. If you are looking for children's crafts, this is the fastest and least expensive option. If you cannot afford patterns for quilting and knitting, there are a number of free online templates that you can find using an Internet search and a printer.


Things You'll Need.

Community craft circles.

Craft magazines.

Craft blogs.

Email newsletters.

Printer.

November 25, 2019

how to make furry cat ears

How to Make Furry Cat Ears.

Cat ears are cute accessories that can be easily made. You can wear them with a costume, or as a fun accessory with an outfit. All of the materials needed to make the cat ears can be found at most arts and crafts stores. To make furry cat ears, create the ear bases, put the ears together, and complete the cat ears with the help of an elastic band and hot glue.



Part 1 Creating the Cat Ear Base.

1. Draw the cat ears on paper. This will be the template for the wire. Basically, you just need to draw two wide triangles. You might like to try drawing a few different sizes to see which size looks best on your head. You can cut out the template, or leave the cat ears drawn on the paper. Keep this design as your template for the remaining steps.

Keep in mind that the template will be slightly smaller than the finished ears because of the fur. A template of about three inches is a good size to use.

It doesn’t matter what you use to draw the ears, but pencil is good to use if you will be redrawing the ears multiple times.

2. Create the cat ears with jewelry wire. Following the paper template, bend the wire into the shape of the cat ears. Jewelry wire should be fairly easy to bend, but you can use a pair of long nose pliers to help form the shape. Do this for both ears and you should end up with two triangle shaped ears.

If you don't have wire, you can use paperclips. Just straighten them out and use them as wire. Don't worry if they don't make a perfect triangle. It won't matter when you put them in the fur. Use glue to bind the sides until you put them in.

Use a jewelry wire that is thicker so that it won’t fall out of shape when fur is added to them. 16 or 18 gauge is a good choice because it is thick, but can be bent without too much effort by using pliers.

3. Cut out the fake fur. Following the paper templates again, cut out four triangle shapes in fur. You can use any type of fur that appeals to you, like black, leopard print, or lion-like fur. Fur can be purchased at an arts and crafts store. These should be about a half an inch larger than the template, though, as the fur needs to hold the wire triangles inside once stitched up.

Remember that you can always make it smaller if it's too big, but you can't make it bigger if it's too small.



Part 2 Putting Together the Ears.

1. Sew the fur together. Place two fur pieces together. The fur sides should be facing each other. Sew each side, but leave the bottom edge unsewn. That is the part you are going to insert the wire through to shape the ears. The finished product should be inside out. Repeat this step until you have two ears.

There should be very little seam allowance—only about an ¼ of a inch.

Use a color of thread that best matches the color of fur.

2. Flip the ears so that you can see the fur. The ears should be inside out with the fur parts facing each other once you have finished sewing. Now, turn the ears so that the fur is on the outside. The ear shape should be really obvious now. Inspect the ears to make sure that there aren’t any holes or mistakes.

Turn the ears inside out and sew up any holes that you find.

Use a pair of sewing scissors to cut the thread where any mistakes have been made. Remove the thread from that part and sew it back up with new thread.

3. Place the wire triangle pieces inside each ear. Insert the wire you shaped into triangles earlier into the furry ears. The wire should be able to fit snugly inside of the fur without too much or too little room. Adjust the wire if necessary.

4. Sew up the bottom of the ears. Once you have inserted the wires into the furry ears, sew up the bottom portion that is still open. There shouldn’t be any opening on the ears when you have finished sewing. It doesn't matter if this sewing line is messy, as nobody is going to see it.



Part 3 Completing the Furry Cat Ears.

1. Create the band for the ears. Measure the elastic band or ribbon around your head. The ribbon should cross over the top of your head rather than your forehead. You can find a band or ribbon at most arts and crafts stores. Sew or hot glue the ends together to form a circular headband that fits your head. If you’re using a ribbon, you can also choose to tie the ribbon in the back so that it is adjustable.

If sewing, include a seam allowance in your measurements before cutting the ribbon. Tie the ribbon when testing it on your head to see how much ribbon will be needed in total.

You can also choose to use a headband instead of an elastic band or ribbon.

2. Mark the placement for the ears. First, hold the band and ears together to see where the ears look most natural. Then, check in the mirror to see where the ears look best. Making marks on the headband while it is on your head, use a pen or marker to make marks where the ears will be covering.

It may be easier to have someone help you make the marks while the band is on your head.

3. Attach the ears to the headband. Use hot glue to attach the cat ears onto the headband in the positions that you marked. Use just enough so that the ears stay up, but don’t use so much that the glue gets on other places on the headband or ribbon. Allow at least ten minutes for the glue to dry.

Have someone help you with the hot glue if you aren’t comfortable with using it on your own.

4. Check the finished product. Once the glue has dried, try on the ears. The band should fit your head without sliding. The ears should be standing straight up. Make any adjustments as needed.



Question : What if I don't have any wire, or my parents won't let me use any?

 Answer : Depending on the size of your cat ears and the thickness of the fur, you might not even need any wire to make them stand up; the wire is there for support. If the ears still flop over after you have made them, try filling them with some cardboard or craft foam instead.

 Question : Is there any alternative to the fur if I don't have a lot of money and can't buy felt or fur and don't have a cat?

 Answer : If you own any old stuffed animals that you don't care for anymore, you can use the fluff from those.

 Question : Can I use white fur?

Answer : Absolutely.

Question : What do I do if I don't know how to sew?

Answer : You can always ask a friend or family member. If you're feeling ambitious, you can learn how to sew yourself.

Question : Can I use real cat hair?

 Answer : Yes, if you want, but it may be best to pick the cat's fur off of the cat brush, not the cat itself.

Question : How can I make fake fur?

 Answer : You can make the fur by tearing felt to make fluffy strips. Then, get the same color felt, and glue or sew the fluffy stripes onto it and then cut out the triangle shape for the ears.

Question : How can I make wolf ears the same way?

 Answer : Make the shape a bit taller and more pointy. Look at pictures of wolves for reference on how their ears are shaped and then just change the shape.

Question : Could I put pink felt in the center for the finished ear?

 Answer : Yes. Just sew or glue it on with a color similar to the color of the felt.

Question : Where can I get fake fur?

 Answer : A craft store or someplace that sells fabric. Or you could remove some from a stuffed animal.

Question : Can I make non-fluffy ears?

 Answer : Yes, but you may need to expand on your ideas, especially if you are looking to cosplay with them. You could use polymer clay.



Tips.

Fake or fun fur makes a mess when cut. Have something ready to sweep or vacuum it up.

Warnings.

Use care when handling hot glue, as it can easily burn.

Things You'll Need.

Paper for template.

Scissors.

Thin wire for the ears.

Fake fur (20 cm sq. or 7.9 inches.).

Elastic ribbon (5-6 cm or about 1 or 2 inches wide) Make sure you have enough to fit around your head and extra ribbon left for tying.

Hot glue.

Needle.

Thread.

Paper.

Marking tool.

Scissors.

Februari 12, 2020

how to keep glitter from falling off

How to Keep Glitter from Falling Off.

If you’re a glitter lover, chances are you’ve run across crafts and body glitters that are susceptible to flaking off and leaving a glitzy, sparkly trail behind you. Luckily, there are a few different ways you can craft with and wear glitter so that it doesn’t fall off so easily. Try using Mod Podge to seal in the glitter in your crafting projects, or mix cosmetic-grade glitter with different beauty products to create your own body glitter.







Using Mod Podge for Crafts.



Add a layer of satin or gloss Mod Podge to your craft. Use a foam brush or paintbrush, depending on your craft, and lightly brush a thorough layer of Mod Podge onto the surface area of whatever you are looking to cover in glitter. Make sure the entire area is coated and that there are no bare spots.

You can even make your own Mod Podge at home to save money!

If you don’t have Mod Podge, you could also use regular white school glue, though school glue often chips off easily over time.

Fun ideas of things you can add glitter to: plates, mugs, containers, candles, fabric flowers, glasses frames, cell phone covers, wood, and notebooks or folders.



Dust, pour, or poof the glitter over the Mod Podged area. Depending on the kind of glitter you are using, you might apply it in a slightly different way. The main thing to remember is that you want to completely coat the Mod Podge in glitter and not leave any empty spaces.

You can also use a foam brush to spread on your glitter if you want a little more control over how much you use.

If you are looking for a high-glitter outcome, you can apply a second layer of Mod Podge and glitter immediately after the first one without waiting for it to dry first (it will take a little longer to dry after the second coat, then, but it will be highly glitterized).



Allow the glitter and Mod Podge to dry for 1-2 hours. Leave your newly glittered item alone for several hours or until it is dry to the touch. Try to leave it in a position so that the Mod Podge and glitter isn’t touching any other surface.

If you are adding glitter to multiple items, this is a great time to continue working on those projects while you’re waiting for others to dry.



Apply a top layer of Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. Once the first layer is dry to the touch, use your sponge or paint brush to add another thin layer of Mod Podge to your item. Use long, even strokes to reduce the appearance of brush lines. Make sure you cover the entire item and don’t leave any raw glitter poking through.

You could also use watered down school glue to create an opaque sealant for your crafting project.

The top layer of Mod Podge acts as a sealant and will prevent the glitter from flaking away.





Let your finished craft dry for 3-4 hours before you use it. Depending on how thickly you applied the Mod Podge, you may need to wait anywhere from 3-12 hours before you can safely use the item without potentially messing up the application. Always check the directions on the bottle for tips and guidelines.

If you have a dehumidifier, you can set your craft in front of it for a speedier drying time.

Never place your item directly in front of a heat source, like an electric heater or a hair dryer, as this may cause the Mod Podge to melt or change consistency so it doesn’t dry correctly.



Coat flaking items with sparkle Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. If you have an item that has glitter that is flaking off, you can apply pre-glitterized Mod Podge to add back some sparkle and lock in the remaining glitter. Simply use a sponge or paint brush to apply a thin, even coat of the sealant to the item, then let it fully dry before you use it again.

Make sure to work on a protected surface, like a counter covered in newspaper or paper towels.



Mix Mod Podge with your glitter of choice for a stronger glitter look. Pour some Mod Podge into a disposable cup or bowl and mix in as much glitter as you want to make your own glitter sealant. You can make the glitter as weak or as strong as you prefer. Then follow the instructions to apply the Mod Podge and let it dry.

You can also apply your glitter Mod Podge, another layer of glitter, and then top it off with the glitter Mod Podge again for even more glitter fun.









Wearing Body Glitter.



Combine body oil and loose glitter for an all-body glitter-wearing option. Instead of sprinkling loose body glitter on your arms and hoping it doesn’t fall off, combine body oil and loose glitter in a travel-sized shampoo container. Shake the container up really well, and then apply it to your arms, legs, chest, or face whenever you need an extra glitter boost.

While you could purchase body oils or lotions that already have glitter in them, it can be less expensive and more fun to do it yourself.



Put petroleum jelly on your skin and add body glitter for a sparkly look. Use a clean makeup or paint brush and apply an even layer of the petroleum jelly to the area you want to cover in glitter (like your collar bones, shoulders, or even your hairline). Then use another clean brush or your hand to gently press loose body glitter onto the jelly.

Visit a cosmetics store to buy body-specific glitter, which is usually a slightly different consistency than the glitter used for crafting.

If you don’t have petroleum jelly, you could also use hair gel as the sticky base for your body glitter.

Use this method in areas that aren’t going to come into frequent contact with other surfaces. For example, it probably wouldn’t work well on your legs if you are going to be sitting and standing and walking around often.



Mix hairspray and glitter to create glitter brow and hair gel. Spray hairspray into a dish, like a small cup or bowl (or even a disposable Dixie Cup), and add loose glitter. Mix it around with a toothpick or a spoolie brush, and then apply it carefully to your eyebrows or to select strands of your hair.

Do not use the glitter and hairspray mix on your eyelashes as it could irritate or infect them.



Wear vibrant lipstick and then add loose glitter for a shimmery lip look. Steer clear of sticky or glossy lipsticks and stick with a cream base to keep the glitter in place better. Put on a layer or two or lipstick, then use your fingers to gently press loose glitter into your lips.

With this trend, you’ll want to avoid pressing your lips together or eating or drinking anything too messy.



Create a glitter stamp from a makeup sponge and loose glitter. Cut a makeup sponge into a fun shape (like a heart or a star) and dip one side of it carefully into loose glitter. Spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly or hair gel on your body where you want the stamp, and then press the makeup sponge onto the jelly to transfer the glitter.

Your glitter stamp should stay on all day as long as it doesn’t brush up roughly against anything else.







Keeping Glitter on Clothes.



Use hairspray for a quick fix on your glitter clothing. Take your item of clothing outdoors or to a well ventilated area, and lay it down completely flat. Then spray a light coat of hairspray overtop of the glitter. Use unscented hairspray if you can. Allow the hairspray to dry completely before you wear the clothing item.

Hairspray is a great, quick fix, but overtime it doesn’t hold up, though you can reapply hairspray when you need to. Long-term, you just have to care for and store glittery clothes very carefully.



Affix glitter to your clothes with fabric glue. Lay out your item of clothing in a clean workspace, and apply the fabric glue in whatever patten you want. Then, carefully shake loose glitter overtop of the glue, coating it so that none of the glue is visible. Let the glue and glitter dry for several hours before picking up the item and shaking off the excess glitter.

You could even make a stamp out of a sponge and decorate your shirt that way (like stars all over a t-shirt), and then shake the glitter on top of the design.



Wash glittery clothes sparingly and let them air-dry. When you go to clean your clothes that have glitter on them, try to wash then only when they really need it. Use cold water and the delicate cycle in the washing machine, and don’t put them into the dryer. Instead, hang them up to air-dry.

You could even take your glittery clothes to a dry cleaner instead of washing them yourself.



When crafting with glitter, try working over a cooking tray. You’ll catch all the excess glitter that falls off and can easily return it to its container.

When making your own body glitter, try to use cosmetic grade glitter rather than crafting glitter.

Store your glittery clothes in plastic bags to protect them from rubbing up against other items in your closet (and to protect your other clothes from getting glitter all over them).





Things You’ll Need.

Crafting with Glitter and Mod Podge.

Mod Podge (satin, gloss, or glitter).

Foam brush or paintbrush.

Disposable cup or bowl.

Craft glitter.

Wearing Body Glitter.

Makeup or paint brush.

Petroleum jelly.

Hairspray.

Lipstick.

Makeup sponge.

Body oil.

Cup or bowl.

Cosmetic grade body glitter.

Keeping Glitter on Clothes.

Hairspray.

Fabric glue.

Plastic baggies.

November 08, 2019

how to make a jack in the box

How to Make a Jack in the Box.

A Jack in the Box is a fun toy that's been around for hundreds of years. While it may seem complex, a Jack in the Box actually works with very simple mechanics. Making your own can be a fun arts and crafts activity. With some cardboard, glue, magnets, a spring, and a few other parts, you can make your very own Jack in the Box.







Part 1 Constructing the Box.



Find a sturdy piece of cardboard. You'll need a thick and sturdy piece of cardboard for the box to support itself. The kind from a large packing box should work well.

You'll be cutting out 6 squares that are each 6" x 6" (15 cm x 15 cm), so your piece of cardboard will need to be at least 18" x 12" (45 cm x 30). If you can't find a piece that big, then several pieces will work fine too.



Draw six 6" X 6" (15 cm x 15 cm) boxes on the piece of cardboard. These six squares will form the walls, floor, and lid of your Jack in the Box. Use a ruler to measure and make sure your lines are straight.

Make sure you use a dark pen or marker. Otherwise, you may not be able to see your lines when you cut.



Cut out each box. Use a pair of sharp scissors or a box cutter. Carefully cut along the lines you drew so the cardboard squares are the right size. If you're using a box cutter, make sure the cardboard is placed on a solid surface.

Wear gloves during this step to prevent paper cuts or any injuries for the scissors or box cutter.



Glue 4 of the squares together, making a cube with no top or bottom. Hot glue is the best choice for this step. White glue won't be strong enough to keep the box together. This forms the outside structure of the box.

Glue the edges of the cardboard together to form the cube. If the glue doesn't seem to be making a strong seal, you can use strips of tape to secure the cube while the glue hardens.



Glue another square to the bottom of the cube. Line up the square perfectly with the rest of the cube or your box will be uneven. This will form the floor of the box.

Lay the square down flat and put glue around the edge. Then slowly lower the box onto the square, making sure the glue makes contact with all edges of the box.



Make a hinge with the final square. Don't glue the final square to the box, or your Jack in the Box won't open. Instead, rest the square on top of the box, making sure to line up all the sides. Then, use a strip of tape to fasten one side of the square to the box. This will form a simple hinge that allows your box to open.

Clear tape is the best choice here. Colored tape might throw off your designs when you decorate your box later on.







Part 2 Sealing the Box.



Find 2 small magnets. There are lots of ways you could make the seal for your box, but a simple method uses magnets. Start by finding 2 magnets. These should be square or circle and small, not more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) long.

Craft or hardware stores usually have small magnets that are meant to hold boxes or cabinets closed. Looking for these should give you a good start.

Remember to find out which sides of the magnets attract each other. Those are the two sides you'll line up when making your seal.



Glue one magnet to the bottom of the box's lid. This should be on the opposite side where you placed the tape. On the edge of the lid and in the center, glue the first magnet.



Glue another magnet directly under the first magnet. The next magnet should be placed on the inside wall of the box so the two magnets touch each other when the lid is closed. In this position, they will attract each other and keep the box sealed.

To find the right position for the second magnet, start by closing the box slowly. This way you'll be able to see where the magnet will rest when the box is sealed. The best place for the second magnet is right under that point, so the two magnets touch when the lid is closed.



Test out your seal. See if your seal is holding after you glue both magnets. Pull up slightly to see how tight the seal is. Flip the box upside down and see if it holds.







Part 3 Making the Spring Puppet.



Glue a compression spring to the bottom of the box. Draw a circle in the middle of the box's floor to see where you'll place the spring. Then put glue on the bottom of the spring and place it over the circle you drew. Hold the spring down for a few seconds to make sure the glue seals.

Compression springs come in lots of sizes. For this project, you'll want one that's slightly taller than the box, or about 7 inches (18 cm). Your local craft store should have plenty of options.

Test the seal by making sure the box stays closed when the spring is in place. If the box doesn't stay closed, your spring is too big or your seal is too loose.



Put a sock puppet on the spring. Your Jack in the Box needs a character to pop out! A sock puppet is perfect because it can fit snugly over the spring.

You could also draw and cut out a simple face from a piece of paper and glue it to the top of the spring for a simpler design.



Test your box. With all the pieces in place, it's time to make sure your box is working! Put it on a table and lift up the lid. Your puppet should pop out of the box when you do this.



Decorate your box. Now that your box is complete, you can decorate it however you want! Use markers to draw on its sides, glue sparkly paper over it, cover it with stickers--use your imagination!





Tips.

Remember to let all glue dry before you move on. Wait a few minutes after you glue pieces together to make sure the glue holds or your box could warp as you work.



Things You'll Need.

Cardboard.

Hot glue.

Scissors.

Ruler.

Clear tape.

Gloves.

Pen or marker.

Compression spring.

Magnets

November 18, 2019

how to make plastic spoon monsters

HOW TO MAKE PLASTIC SPOON MONSTERS.

Monsters and Halloween go hand in hand. They don’t always have to be scary though, like my monster bookmarks, which are pretty darn cute! All these plastic spoon monsters want to do is go trick or treating! So what do you say? Want to make some cute monsters of your very own?



MAKE FUN PLASTIC SPOON MONSTERS.

This easy craft for kids has Halloween written all over it… seriously. Did you see the trick or treat bags?? The kids can make these plastic spoon monsters and display them in a diorama, just poke the handles into some foam!



They can also double as puppets so kids can put on a Halloween puppet show. Either way, it’s a fun afternoon of make-believe!



You can decorate their faces however you like, though I am partial to the cyclops look. One eye, one eyebrow, and usually one fang!



I also think monsters with multiple eyes are super cute! I like making their eyes go in different directions.



Seriously, if one of these cute little guys walked up to you, you would totally take them trick or treating, right??



Ok, enough chatter. Let’s get on with it. Gather your supplies and get ready to make these cute plastic spoon monsters!



I made five plastic spoon monsters, but the instructions below are for just one. I chose five different colors and matched them all up. You can mix and match and do whatever you want! For paint, I used Americana in Bright Orange, Sour Apple, Bright Yellow, Lavender, and Red Alert.



SUPPLIES FOR ONE PLASTIC SPOON MONSTER.

Felt in color of your choice, cut into a 4″ x 3″ rectangle.

Pipe cleaner (same color as felt).

Plastic spoon.

Acrylic craft paint in black, white and color to match your felt.

Paintbrush.

Scissors.

Round sponge applicators (spouncers).

Hot glue gun.

For trick or treat bag.



1/3 gold pipe cleaner.

Paper bag cut into 2″ x 1.5″ rectangle.

Fine point black marker.



Paint the back of the spoon and halfway down the handle. Allow to dry and repeat for a second coat.



Use spouncers dipped in white and black paint to add eyes. Allow to dry completely.



I like the double-ended spouncers. There are two different sizes in one. Check your local craft store to see what they have.



Use the handle end of a paintbrush to add circles that are smaller than your spouncers.



Meanwhile, while the paint is drying, fold the felt rectangle in half lengthwise and cut a small slit 1/2-inch from the top.



Unfold felt and trim off excess above the slit. Be careful not to cut it too close.



Cut around the edges of the felt to create fun shapes for the monster costumes.



When the paint is completely dry, insert the handle of the spoon into the slit of the felt so that the handle ends up behind the felt. Use a dab of hot glue to secure the felt to the “neck” of the spoon monster.



For the next step, you will need to lift the felt and move it out of your way which is why the painted faces should be completely dry before you do this!



For the arms, fold a pipe cleaner in half and twist around the middle of the spoon handle. Stretch pipe cleaner arms to the left/right. Bring the felt back down and secure it to the spoon handle with hot glue.



Write “TRICK OR TREAT!” on the paper bag rectangle. Bend the gold piece of pipe cleaner in half and curve the bend to look like a bag handle. Hot glue the handle to the back of the treat bag.



Twist the end of one of the arms around the treat bag handle. Position the arms however you like!



I hope you had fun making these cute little monsters from plastic spoons! I have some other crafts you will probably enjoy like these plastic spoon bugs and these plastic spoon snowmen! And I told you I love to make monsters.

November 03, 2019

learn how to rubber stamp on stretch canvas

learn how to rubber stamp on stretch canvas

If you are looking for different surfaces to stamp onto then how about trying artist's canvases. These are great for making decor for the home and canvas blocks are all the rage right now. This is a project for stampers happy to experiment with different techniques to create interesting results.



What Are Artist's Canvases?

Artist's canvases are typically pieces of linen or cotton canvas on which artists paint. There are two types which are commonly used, canvas board or panels, where the canvas is stretched over a piece of board. This gives a firm flat surface for stamping.



The other type is stretched canvas. These are pieces of canvas that are stretched over a wooden frame which creates a taut surface. Canvases of either type are available in a wide range of sizes, from tiny canvases through to canvases that take up an entire wall. There are a variety of different qualities of canvas available and art stores will have the biggest range on offer.



About the Surface for Stamping

The canvas surface is woven and as such it is more textured than normal cardstock. This is one of the features of the canvas which makes it a little different and interesting to work on. Note that this texture will mean that some detail in a very intricate stamped image may get lost. You will also notice that some canvases are sold as primed, others are not primed. A primed surface means that it has been treated ready for painting. Both surfaces can be stamped on, however, the inks will be absorbed by the surface of the untreated canvas and may need heat sealing on treated canvas. It is best to experiment with both types and see which gives you the results you prefer.



Where to Buy

You will find stretch canvases for sale in artists supply stores. You will also find them in craft stores and even some stationery stores as well as online.



How to Use

While you can stamp onto canvas panels with relative ease, stamping on stretch canvas presents some significant challenges, not least the fact that the canvas surface, while taut, has some movement and therefore it is difficult to stamp onto in the traditional manner. However you can achieve good results by placing the inked stamp, image side up and carefully pressing the canvas, top side down, onto the stamp. Then carefully rub over the back of the canvas to make sure the inked image is transferred from the stamp to the canvas. To use this method, your stamp must be smaller than the recess at the back of the stretch canvas.



Ink for Stamping

Unlike stamping on canvas or fabric which is going to be worn or may need regular laundry care, canvas panels are purely decorative, therefore there is no need to use fabric ink when you stamp on canvas panels. The type of ink you use depends on the results you want to achieve, however, good thick pigment inks are a great choice although they may need sealing with a heat gun. Permanent ink such as Stazon and Ranger Archival inks are also a great choice.



Mistakes

While artist's canvases are more expensive than normal paper or cardstock, you don't need to worry that all is lost if you make a mistake. If you make a mistake, simply get some white acrylic paint and paint over the image. Leave the paint to dry and when it is dry, start again!

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Acknowledgements

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November 01, 2019