Crafters, makers and builders create beautiful items out of raw materials. If you are a crafter that is unable to think of your next project, there are many ways that you can get new ideas. Crafting is one of the most popular subjects of blogs, magazines, classes and more, and its popularity has only risen as the Internet has become an easy way to share methods, techniques and projects. Depending upon how you like to learn, you can choose the most comfortable option. Select your specific area of crafting and search for the newest crafting projects using these avenues. Read more to find out how to get ideas for crafts and projects.
Steps.
1. Join a quilting bee, knitting circle or scrap booking club. Monthly meetings give the opportunities for exchanging ideas, showing off projects and doing group projects.
This is also a great way to meet people with similar interests and form lasting friendships. Crafting often allows you to talk to other people and learn their stories. Many rural communities have quilt guilds, knitting bees and craft circles that stay intact for decades.
2. Take night classes. Most cities have a group that is devoted to community education and gives a catalog of classes at a small fee. These can include anything from jewelry making to scrap booking to wood working.
Search online for "Lifelong learning classes" in your town or "Community education." Most classes happen once or twice a week over a period of months and they teach you new skills and give you many ideas for projects.
3. Get a subscription to a do-it-yourself magazine. Depending upon your preferences, there are many options. Magazine subscriptions can be bought from a website, Amazon, or a magazine prescription service, and it is a good idea to look for the best offer.
Good options for crafters include Martha Stewart Living, Card Maker, This Old House, American Style, Creative Knitting, Do-It-Yourself, Ready Made, American Craft, Crafts and Hobbies, Quilter, Paper Crafts, Creative Woodwork and Crafts, Car Craft. Knit'N Style, Sew News and Creating Keepsakes.
You may want to go to a supermarket and buy a few issues of each of these magazines to decide which one would be the best monthly subscription.
4. Get involved with Blogger, WordPress and other blogging platforms. Once you have a profile you can subscribe to craft blogs and check back whenever you need a fresh idea.
You may hear of craft bloggers referred to as "choggers." Start by checking out popular blogs, such as Bakerella, Cuteable, Dollar Store Crafts, Not Martha and the Pearl Bee. There are thousands of blogs to choose from, and they may also provide an email newsletter.
5. Sign up for email newsletters from magazines like Real Simple, Better Homes and Gardens and Ready Made. They will send you weekly or monthly issues depending upon your preferences, filled with new ideas from their crafters-in-residence.
6. Inquire at local stores if they do classes. In order to drum up business, stores often provide classes for a small fee as long as you buy the materials. For instance, a knitting business may teach their patrons how to use a new set of knitting needles in order to sell more sets.
7. Go online and simply search for patterns or templates. If you are looking for children's crafts, this is the fastest and least expensive option. If you cannot afford patterns for quilting and knitting, there are a number of free online templates that you can find using an Internet search and a printer.
Countries across the world craft objects, jewelry, furniture and more based on their own customs, culture and history. If you are interested in buying crafts from a country different from your own, then you have a number of options in your town and across the world. You may also choose to buy crafts from third world countries in order to support fair trade. Buying fair trade crafts helps to prevent low wages and unfair working conditions. There are some guidelines you should follow to ensure you are buying from a country that is benefiting from your purchase. You may need to do a little Internet research to ensure you are buying the crafts you prefer. Read on to find out how to buy crafts from third world countries.
Steps.
1. Research fair trade organizations. There are a number of non-profit companies that choose to keep consumers up to date about fair trade options. These include fairtraderesource.org, chfinternational.org, and fair trade organizations of specific countries, such as fta.org.au.
2. Decide if you want to buy crafts from a specific country. For example, you may admire the bamboo furniture from Malaysia or carvings from Africa. Search for a non-profit organization that tells you where to find shops that sell that country's goods.
For example, there is a Bangladesh cooperative that represents 60,000 artisans.
3. Go to eBay or Overstock. Both of these websites have acquired companies that previously sought to promote fair trade crafts. Ebay acquired World of Good, and you can buy handcrafted gifts from third world countries at worldofgood.ebay.com.
Overstock.com provides a fair trade site, called overstock.com/Worldstock-Fair-Trade. You can find anything from jewelry to furniture and more.
4. Search for local stores that specialize in fair trade crafts. Most mid to large-sized cities have a few fair trade stores. You can often find the stories behind the manufacturers of the crafts.
Ask the store how they acquired the crafts. The best way to tell if you are buying from a certified fair trade, third world craft carrier is to ask how the crafts were acquired.
5. Visit world craft museums, such as The Museum of Craft and Folk Art or the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco. These museums fill their gift shops with crafts that are well-crafted and distinctive. Check the museum websites for crafts that can be bought online.
6. Visit summer markets in your town. People who have emigrated from other countries often stock booths filled with their home country's crafts. Peruvian alpaca crafts are common at summer craft markets.
7. Visit a third world country and buy the crafts straight from the source. While this is the most expensive option, it is the best way to ensure you are buying straight from a craftsman. Research craft workshops where you can visit and buy directly after viewing the creation of the crafts.
For example, in St. Kitts there is a batik factory where the batiks are made and then sold. In Peru, you can visit an alpaca farm where yarn is created, died, woven and sold.
One of the #1 things that people often say to me is, “I would love to make creative projects with my kids, but I’m just not crafty. I don’t even know where to start!” My reply is always, “Trust me, you do NOT need to consider yourself ‘crafty’ to start getting creative with your children!” There are hundreds upon hundreds of craft projects that you can make with your children that require NO special skills or tools and that take less than half an hour of your time. In fact, most of these 50+ quick and easy kids craft project ideas that I’ve rounded up here actually take less than FIFTEEN minutes to make!
WHY CRAFT WITH YOUR KIDS?
A recent study by Dr. Richard Rende revealed that creative interaction between parents and young children engaging in activities like arts and crafts not only provides immediate and lasting cognitive benefits but also creates a unique bonding experience, which creates lifelong memories. Taking time to be creative with your children is a topic that I am incredibly passionate about. I know firsthand the benefits that children reap when they are exposed to arts and crafts activities, and in an age where arts are in a decline in the school systems, it is even more important than ever for parents to take the initiative to introduce art activities to their children.
Other key findings of Dr. Rende’s study showed that:
• Arts and crafts engage multiple brain areas simultaneously and
improve bilateral coordination between the left and right sides of
the brain, leading to immediate and future cognitive development.
• Activities like arts and crafts accelerate the development of muscles
in the hands and fingers, improving fine motor skills that are
essential for school success in the earliest formal years.
• Face-to-face interaction in the early years is critical for optimal
social development.
• Arts and crafts promote rich social interactions that help develop
language skills and social cognitive abilities like understanding
emotions.
• Creative activities are a great way to bond with children and create
lasting memories.
Nearly 90% of the parents surveyed for the study said that they would like to spend more time creating arts and crafts with their children, but they didn’t know where to start or how to carve out the time needed.
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If you have an old vinyl record that's unplayable or scratched, upcycle it instead of throwing it away. You can make art, designs, jewelry, and much more by cutting the record. By heating the record or by using a hotknife, you can easily cut your vinyl into whatever shape you need!
Buy a hot knife from an arts and crafts store. Hot knives are heated cutting tools used in crafts and woodworking to precisely cut delicate materials like vinyl or foam. Visit your local crafts store and look for a hot knife with a sharp blade attachment.
Check a home improvement store if an arts and crafts store doesn’t carry hot knives.
Plug the hot knife in and let it heat up. Turn on the knife and set it so the blade is off of your work surface. Wait 2-3 minutes for the blade to heat up or else your knife won’t make smooth cuts. Do not touch the blade of the knife once it’s heated.
Work on a wooden or heat-resistant surface so your knife doesn’t burn through it when you make your cuts.
Keep the knife out of children’s reach.
Many hot knives will have a built-in stand to hold the blade off the table.
Poke the knife through the record and pull it along your design. Slowly stab the tip of the hot knife through the vinyl record. Once you’re through the vinyl, pull the knife at a steady speed along the line you want to cut. Follow all of your lines until you’ve completely cut out your design. Turn off the knife and let it cool down once you finish.
Vinyl contains chlorine gas that could escape when it’s heated. Wear a facemask while cutting the vinyl with a hotknife.
Don’t hold the knife in one spot for too long or else the vinyl will melt and bubble.
Keep the knife stationary and move the record with your other hand if that’s more comfortable.
Punch the vinyl pieces when you finish cutting them. Hold the cutout portion of vinyl against the table with your non-dominant hand. Start gently pulling the rest of the record off your work surface with your dominant hand to separate the pieces.
For more intricate pieces, hold the cutouts as close to the edge as possible so they don’t break off when you try to separate the pieces.
Warnings.
Vinyl releases chlorine gas when heated. Wear a facemask so you don’t inhale any of the fumes.
If you’re a glitter lover, chances are you’ve run across crafts and body glitters that are susceptible to flaking off and leaving a glitzy, sparkly trail behind you. Luckily, there are a few different ways you can craft with and wear glitter so that it doesn’t fall off so easily. Try using Mod Podge to seal in the glitter in your crafting projects, or mix cosmetic-grade glitter with different beauty products to create your own body glitter.
Using Mod Podge for Crafts.
Add a layer of satin or gloss Mod Podge to your craft. Use a foam brush or paintbrush, depending on your craft, and lightly brush a thorough layer of Mod Podge onto the surface area of whatever you are looking to cover in glitter. Make sure the entire area is coated and that there are no bare spots.
You can even make your own Mod Podge at home to save money!
If you don’t have Mod Podge, you could also use regular white school glue, though school glue often chips off easily over time.
Fun ideas of things you can add glitter to: plates, mugs, containers, candles, fabric flowers, glasses frames, cell phone covers, wood, and notebooks or folders.
Dust, pour, or poof the glitter over the Mod Podged area. Depending on the kind of glitter you are using, you might apply it in a slightly different way. The main thing to remember is that you want to completely coat the Mod Podge in glitter and not leave any empty spaces.
You can also use a foam brush to spread on your glitter if you want a little more control over how much you use.
If you are looking for a high-glitter outcome, you can apply a second layer of Mod Podge and glitter immediately after the first one without waiting for it to dry first (it will take a little longer to dry after the second coat, then, but it will be highly glitterized).
Allow the glitter and Mod Podge to dry for 1-2 hours. Leave your newly glittered item alone for several hours or until it is dry to the touch. Try to leave it in a position so that the Mod Podge and glitter isn’t touching any other surface.
If you are adding glitter to multiple items, this is a great time to continue working on those projects while you’re waiting for others to dry.
Apply a top layer of Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. Once the first layer is dry to the touch, use your sponge or paint brush to add another thin layer of Mod Podge to your item. Use long, even strokes to reduce the appearance of brush lines. Make sure you cover the entire item and don’t leave any raw glitter poking through.
You could also use watered down school glue to create an opaque sealant for your crafting project.
The top layer of Mod Podge acts as a sealant and will prevent the glitter from flaking away.
Let your finished craft dry for 3-4 hours before you use it. Depending on how thickly you applied the Mod Podge, you may need to wait anywhere from 3-12 hours before you can safely use the item without potentially messing up the application. Always check the directions on the bottle for tips and guidelines.
If you have a dehumidifier, you can set your craft in front of it for a speedier drying time.
Never place your item directly in front of a heat source, like an electric heater or a hair dryer, as this may cause the Mod Podge to melt or change consistency so it doesn’t dry correctly.
Coat flaking items with sparkle Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. If you have an item that has glitter that is flaking off, you can apply pre-glitterized Mod Podge to add back some sparkle and lock in the remaining glitter. Simply use a sponge or paint brush to apply a thin, even coat of the sealant to the item, then let it fully dry before you use it again.
Make sure to work on a protected surface, like a counter covered in newspaper or paper towels.
Mix Mod Podge with your glitter of choice for a stronger glitter look. Pour some Mod Podge into a disposable cup or bowl and mix in as much glitter as you want to make your own glitter sealant. You can make the glitter as weak or as strong as you prefer. Then follow the instructions to apply the Mod Podge and let it dry.
You can also apply your glitter Mod Podge, another layer of glitter, and then top it off with the glitter Mod Podge again for even more glitter fun.
Wearing Body Glitter.
Combine body oil and loose glitter for an all-body glitter-wearing option. Instead of sprinkling loose body glitter on your arms and hoping it doesn’t fall off, combine body oil and loose glitter in a travel-sized shampoo container. Shake the container up really well, and then apply it to your arms, legs, chest, or face whenever you need an extra glitter boost.
While you could purchase body oils or lotions that already have glitter in them, it can be less expensive and more fun to do it yourself.
Put petroleum jelly on your skin and add body glitter for a sparkly look. Use a clean makeup or paint brush and apply an even layer of the petroleum jelly to the area you want to cover in glitter (like your collar bones, shoulders, or even your hairline). Then use another clean brush or your hand to gently press loose body glitter onto the jelly.
Visit a cosmetics store to buy body-specific glitter, which is usually a slightly different consistency than the glitter used for crafting.
If you don’t have petroleum jelly, you could also use hair gel as the sticky base for your body glitter.
Use this method in areas that aren’t going to come into frequent contact with other surfaces. For example, it probably wouldn’t work well on your legs if you are going to be sitting and standing and walking around often.
Mix hairspray and glitter to create glitter brow and hair gel. Spray hairspray into a dish, like a small cup or bowl (or even a disposable Dixie Cup), and add loose glitter. Mix it around with a toothpick or a spoolie brush, and then apply it carefully to your eyebrows or to select strands of your hair.
Do not use the glitter and hairspray mix on your eyelashes as it could irritate or infect them.
Wear vibrant lipstick and then add loose glitter for a shimmery lip look. Steer clear of sticky or glossy lipsticks and stick with a cream base to keep the glitter in place better. Put on a layer or two or lipstick, then use your fingers to gently press loose glitter into your lips.
With this trend, you’ll want to avoid pressing your lips together or eating or drinking anything too messy.
Create a glitter stamp from a makeup sponge and loose glitter. Cut a makeup sponge into a fun shape (like a heart or a star) and dip one side of it carefully into loose glitter. Spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly or hair gel on your body where you want the stamp, and then press the makeup sponge onto the jelly to transfer the glitter.
Your glitter stamp should stay on all day as long as it doesn’t brush up roughly against anything else.
Keeping Glitter on Clothes.
Use hairspray for a quick fix on your glitter clothing. Take your item of clothing outdoors or to a well ventilated area, and lay it down completely flat. Then spray a light coat of hairspray overtop of the glitter. Use unscented hairspray if you can. Allow the hairspray to dry completely before you wear the clothing item.
Hairspray is a great, quick fix, but overtime it doesn’t hold up, though you can reapply hairspray when you need to. Long-term, you just have to care for and store glittery clothes very carefully.
Affix glitter to your clothes with fabric glue. Lay out your item of clothing in a clean workspace, and apply the fabric glue in whatever patten you want. Then, carefully shake loose glitter overtop of the glue, coating it so that none of the glue is visible. Let the glue and glitter dry for several hours before picking up the item and shaking off the excess glitter.
You could even make a stamp out of a sponge and decorate your shirt that way (like stars all over a t-shirt), and then shake the glitter on top of the design.
Wash glittery clothes sparingly and let them air-dry. When you go to clean your clothes that have glitter on them, try to wash then only when they really need it. Use cold water and the delicate cycle in the washing machine, and don’t put them into the dryer. Instead, hang them up to air-dry.
You could even take your glittery clothes to a dry cleaner instead of washing them yourself.
When crafting with glitter, try working over a cooking tray. You’ll catch all the excess glitter that falls off and can easily return it to its container.
When making your own body glitter, try to use cosmetic grade glitter rather than crafting glitter.
Store your glittery clothes in plastic bags to protect them from rubbing up against other items in your closet (and to protect your other clothes from getting glitter all over them).
Dog fur has been used to make a soft and warm yarn, or Chiengora, throughout history. Much like other yarns, the process for making dog fur yarn involves harvesting the fibers, washing the fur, and spinning it into the yarn. Dogs with long fur undercoats are the best candidates for making dog yarn, and many groomers will donate their extra fur to you if you don’t have a dog of your own!
Part 1 Collecting Dog Fur.
1. Brush your dog in the spring, when they’re getting rid of their winter coat. Dogs tend to shed more during the springtime, which makes this a great time for harvesting fur. Use a brush or mitt along the dog’s back, sides, and soft, fluffy areas, and avoid areas like the legs and head. Discard any coarse hairs that you can see in the brush, since you won’t be using them.
Breeds like Samoyed, Siberian Husky, Malamute, Golden Retriever, Newfoundland, Collie, and Sheepdog are great for making dog yarn because they have fluffy undercoats with long fur.
2. Pull the fur out of the brush and place it in a cloth bag. Once you’ve picked out the coarse hairs, use your hand to carefully tug the fur out of the brush and transfer it to a bag. Leave the bag open to allow air circulation, preventing mold and mildew.
If you don’t have a cotton bag, you can use a pillowcase or even a cardboard box for collecting the fur.
Avoid using a plastic bag for collecting the fur since plastic can trap air and allow mold growth.
Don’t overfill the bag or push the fur down into the bag. Packing the fur too tightly can cause mold and mildew to form.
3. Make sure you have at least 4 oz (113 g) of fur. To make any type of yarn, you need a substantial amount of fur. After each collection, use a kitchen scale to weigh all of your yarn to see how much you have. If the fur is thin or short, you might need up to 12 oz (339 g) of fur to get the yarn started.
Keep your bags of fur in a place where your dog can’t get into them, since some dogs like to play with their own fur!
4. Add other types of fibers and fur to make a blended yarn. If you want to make yarn with a variety of textures, you can incorporate wool from a llama or alpaca, or you can harvest fur from different types of dogs. If you don’t have enough fur, or your pet’s fur is shorter than 2 inches (5.1 cm) long, you can use these different fibers to make a stronger, longer strand of yarn.
If your dog doesn’t produce a lot of fur, contact a groomer to see if you can use the excess fur from those dogs, or offer to brush a family member’s dog or a friend’s dog to gather additional fur.
The wool and fur might be a slightly different texture, but that’s okay. As long as you aren’t using coarse hair, the fibers can be blended together through a process called carding.
Part 2 Washing the Fur.
1. Mix warm water and soap in a large bowl. Drip 2-3 drops of gentle dish soap or pet shampoo into a bowl and turn on the warm water. Swish the water around with your hand to make sure it’s an even temperature, and scoop out any bubbles that raise over the top of the bowl.
Too many bubbles can make the fur difficult to rinse, but you do need soap to make the fur clean.
2. Submerge the fur in the water for 10 minutes. Gather the fur and push it down into the water until all of the fibers are completely immersed. Press down on the fur, but don’t tug or pull at it, as this can break the fibers of the fur. Leave the fur in the water to soak out the dirt and debris.
Try to keep the water at around the same temperature to prevent the fur from becoming matted, which is also called “felting.”
3. Remove the fur from the water and refill the bowl with warm water. Use your hand to scoop all of the fur out of the bowl and then dump out the water. Make the new water about the same temperature as the previous water, and make sure there are little to no bubbles in the water.
If there are bubbles in the water, dump the water down the drain and refill the bowl to rinse it.
4. Place the fur in the water and push it down to remove excess soap. Transfer the fur back into the bowl and push it down to squeeze out the soap and any additional debris. If the fur is very soapy, you may need to give it an extra rinse with fresh, warm water.
Avoid pulling or wringing the fur in the water, as this can break the fibers and cause the fur to become matted as it dries.
5. Spread the fur out in the sun to dry for 1-2 hours. Lay down a towel or a mesh screen and position the fur on top of it. Try to spread the fur out as much as possible without breaking it up into small pieces. If there’s wind, place a mesh screen or towel on top of the fur to hold it in place.
If it’s cloudy or rainy outside, leave the fur inside to dry in a well-ventilated area. It may take up to 4 hours for the fur to dry inside.
Part 3 Spinning the Yarn.
1. Card the fur using the same process that you would for wool. Using a pair of hand-carders, place the clean and dry fur in sections on one of the carders. Then, roll and pull the empty carder over the one with the fur in a downward motion 2-3 times to elongate the fur. Continue until the fur is soft and evenly blended,
If you’re blending another type of fiber with the fur, such as alpaca and wool, you can add it in this step by placing it on top of the dog fur in the carder before you begin blending. This will combine the fibers into longer pieces and make them easier to spin.
2. Remove the fur from the carder and roll it into a roll egg. Use your hands or a removal tool to reach underneath the fur on the carder and lift it off of the wires. Once all of the fur is completely off, place the blended fur on a flat surface and use your hands to roll the fur in one direction, forming a kind of tube or cylinder out of the fur.
This incorporates the fibers in different directions, making it easier to form yarn, especially when you’re using blended fibers from different sources, like wool and dog fur or different types of dog fur.
3. Use a drop spindle to easily make a long strand of yarn. Hook the end of your carded and rolled fur onto the end of the spindle and hold the fur in one of your hands. Then, spin the bottom of the spindle and draw the fibers out of the rolled ball of fur. This will create a long strand of yarn from the fur.
If your fibers are very short and you didn’t blend them with another type of fiber, you may find that they aren’t strong enough to hold the spindle up. In this case, you should try hand-spinning the fur to make your yarn.
4. Hand-spin the fur if you don’t have a spindle. Hold the fur in one of your hands, and pinch one end into a point. Then, using the opposite hand, begin twisting and slowly drawing the fur out of your hand. Keep twisting it to make it tight and dense until you have a long strand of yarn.
This method produces shorter, more dense strands of yarn that are good for hats and other small items.
5. Make cozy crafts out of your new dog fur yarn. Try your hand at knitting and crocheting with your new yarn. Dog yarn is soft and warm, and it easily repels water, so try making a hat or scarf with the yarn. You can even make a pair of socks or gloves to keep yourself warm!
If you have a lot of yarn from the fur, you can make a sweater or a blanket.
6. Store the yarn in a dry, well-ventilated area. Even when the yarn is made, the dog fur might still be susceptible to mold and mildew if it gets wet. When you aren’t using the bundles of yarn, keep them somewhere dry with good air circulation. If you have to put the yarn in a bag to store it, use a bag made of a breathable fabric, like cotton.
Try to keep the yarn out of reach of pets, since they may still be able to smell some of their own scent on the fibers and might want to play with the bundles of yarn!
Tips.
Avoid using clippings or overcoat hairs, which can be scratchy and uncomfortable to wear.
Warnings.
Keep in mind that some people are allergic to dogs and shouldn’t wear items that have been made from dog fur, even if it has been washed.
Things You'll Need.
Brush or mitt, Dog fur, Cotton bag, pillowcase, or box, Large bowl, Dish soap, Water, Towel or mesh screen.
Hand carders, Wool or alpaca (optional, for added length/strength), Drop spindle (optional).
Looking for a fun way to celebrate this holiday season? Whether you’re crafting homemade decorations for Thanksgiving dinner or just want to get into the spirit of autumn, making a turkey from ordinary paper bags is a quick, simple and creative activity that is sure to please children and adults alike. This project only requires a few simple materials and will add a bit of thrifty Fall flair wherever it’s displayed.
Part 1 Making the Turkey.
1. Gather your materials. For this project, you’ll need only need a handful of basic items—3 brown paper bags (1 large paper grocery bag and 2 smaller standard paper bags), 1 sheet of white 8 ½” x 11” typing paper, a few sheets of newspaper, a pair of scissors and a hot glue gun or some craft glue. Any additional materials will be up to you, depending on how elaborate you want the presentation of your finished turkey to be.
Your turkey will be made of just three easy pieces: one big bag for the body, and the two smaller bags to serve as the “drumsticks.”
Making a paper bag turkey only takes a few minutes from start to finish, leaving you with plenty of time in your day to finish playing, decorating or tackling other crafting projects.
2. Form the body of the turkey. Take the large paper bag and fill it ¾ full with crumpled newspaper. This will help fill out the body, giving it a plump appearance and preventing it from collapsing once it's ready to be displayed. After the bag has been stuffed, fold the corners down diagonally and glue them in place. Tuck the folded tab down one more time and glue it to the underside of the turkey.
Shape the body of the turkey by hand until it’s smooth and round. Be sure to work out any square edges of creases from the original bag.
Be careful not to tear the bag while sealing or shaping it.
3. Shape the drumsticks. Grab the two smaller paper bags—you’ll be using these to craft the “drumsticks” of the turkey. Make one hand into a fist and stick it into each bag, molding the opening of the bag around your wrist. This will give the bag its recognizable drumstick shape. Remove your hand from the bag and fill the rounded end with newspaper. Twist the opening of each bag shut and secure it with a dab of glue.
Like the body of the turkey, the drumsticks will need to be filled in order to hold their shape.
4. Cut the booties for the drumsticks. Your drumsticks aren’t complete until they’re dressed with a pair of frilly white booties, like a traditional Thanksgiving turkey. Cut your sheet of typing paper in half lengthwise, then fold each piece in half, again lengthwise. Use your scissors to make a series of cuts in the open edge of the paper to create a neat fringe.
Try to make your cuts about ¼ inch apart.
Your cuts only need to be about half the width of the paper.
5. Put it all together. Wrap a paper bootie around the end of each drumstick and secure them with glue. Then, place the drumsticks on either side of the sealed end of the turkey and glue them down. That’s it! The result is a quirky, lifelike baked bird that you might just mistake for the real thing.
Attach the drumsticks to the tapered sides of the body where you folded down the edges of the big bag. This will give the turkey a more realistic look.
The different parts of the turkey will have a little weight to them once they’ve been filled. Use enough glue to make sure that everything holds.
Part 2 Finding Creative Ways to Present Your Turkey.
1. Put it on a platter. Arrange your paper bag turkey on a serving platter over a bed of parsley or tissue paper garnish. Surround the turkey with fallen leaves for a splash of vibrant color. With the right details, you’ll have a mouthwatering craft turkey worthy of a fantasy feast to show off to your friends and family.
If you don't have a real serving platter lying around, make your own out of cardboard, construction paper, and colored markers.
Make sure to let everyone, especially small children, know that your paper turkey is not for eating.
2. Add colorful designs. Before you fill the paper bags, decorate the outsides for a more artistic, funky finish. Use crayons, markers, washable paint, stickers or glitter and customize your turkey with polka dots, swirls or dazzling patterns using your favorite colors. Grab a friend, sibling, parent or child to decorate your turkey with, then compare and display them together when you’re done.
If you’re using paint or a felt-tip marker that might saturate the paper bags, allow them to dry before stuffing or shaping them.
When making paper turkeys with your kids or students, have them write down one thing they’re thankful for somewhere on the big bag.
3. Fill it with “stuffing.” For an unexpected tasty twist, ditch the newspaper and fill your turkey with popcorn, candy or other easy-to-eat finger foods instead. You can then have someone “carve” the turkey by cutting a flap in the top and have something to snack on until the main course is served. This imaginative serving style is sure to be a hit at holiday parties!
Popcorn makes a simple stuffing because it’s light and takes up a lot of space, but you could use just about any snack food, like chips, pretzels or chocolates, to fill your turkey.
Try filling the drumsticks separately with caramel corn to make “dark meat.”[6]
4. Put your paper bag turkey on display. In addition to being a fun and easy project to do with your friends or loved ones, your paper turkey will make a unique arrangement for the coffee table, arts and crafts desk or kitchen counter. It will look especially good surrounded by other festive Fall decorations. Best of all, you can store the playful papercraft away or simply make a new one the next time the holiday season rolls around.
A paper bag turkey will fit nicely with other homemade holiday decorations, such as hand turkey cutouts, popsicle stick snowflakes, and construction paper pumpkins.
Tips.
This will make a great activity for parents and teachers to do alongside their children or students.
If the paper bags you’re using have any logos, writings or markings on them, carefully turn them inside out before you begin crafting.
Line the inside of your turkey with wax or parchment paper to prevent splotchy grease stains if you plan on filling it with buttered popcorn.
Make sure you have enough of whatever food item you choose to fill the large bag.
Hot glue is preferable to other adhesives because it dries quickly and creates a strong, lasting hold.
Warnings.
Take caution when working with the hot glue and scissors. Kids should ask an adult for help with the cutting and gluing portions of the project.
Staples should be avoided, as there's no way to use them to secure the different parts of the turkey without mashing them.
Things You'll Need.
3 brown paper bags (1 large and 2 small), 1 sheet white typing paper, A few sheets of crumpled newspaper.
Scissors, Hot glue or craft glue, Popcorn or other small snack foods (optional), Various decorating supplies (optional).
Looking for a fun way to celebrate this holiday season? Whether you’re crafting homemade decorations for Thanksgiving dinner or just want to get into the spirit of autumn, making a turkey from ordinary paper bags is a quick, simple and creative activity that is sure to please children and adults alike. This project only requires a few simple materials and will add a bit of thrifty Fall flair wherever it’s displayed.
Part 1 Making the Turkey.
1. Gather your materials. For this project, you’ll need only need a handful of basic items—3 brown paper bags (1 large paper grocery bag and 2 smaller standard paper bags), 1 sheet of white 8 ½” x 11” typing paper, a few sheets of newspaper, a pair of scissors and a hot glue gun or some craft glue. Any additional materials will be up to you, depending on how elaborate you want the presentation of your finished turkey to be.
Your turkey will be made of just three easy pieces: one big bag for the body, and the two smaller bags to serve as the “drumsticks.”
Making a paper bag turkey only takes a few minutes from start to finish, leaving you with plenty of time in your day to finish playing, decorating or tackling other crafting projects.
2. Form the body of the turkey. Take the large paper bag and fill it ¾ full with crumpled newspaper. This will help fill out the body, giving it a plump appearance and preventing it from collapsing once it's ready to be displayed. After the bag has been stuffed, fold the corners down diagonally and glue them in place. Tuck the folded tab down one more time and glue it to the underside of the turkey.
Shape the body of the turkey by hand until it’s smooth and round. Be sure to work out any square edges of creases from the original bag.
Be careful not to tear the bag while sealing or shaping it.
3. Shape the drumsticks. Grab the two smaller paper bags—you’ll be using these to craft the “drumsticks” of the turkey. Make one hand into a fist and stick it into each bag, molding the opening of the bag around your wrist. This will give the bag its recognizable drumstick shape. Remove your hand from the bag and fill the rounded end with newspaper. Twist the opening of each bag shut and secure it with a dab of glue.
Like the body of the turkey, the drumsticks will need to be filled in order to hold their shape.
4. Cut the booties for the drumsticks. Your drumsticks aren’t complete until they’re dressed with a pair of frilly white booties, like a traditional Thanksgiving turkey. Cut your sheet of typing paper in half lengthwise, then fold each piece in half, again lengthwise. Use your scissors to make a series of cuts in the open edge of the paper to create a neat fringe.
Try to make your cuts about ¼ inch apart.
Your cuts only need to be about half the width of the paper.
5. Put it all together. Wrap a paper bootie around the end of each drumstick and secure them with glue. Then, place the drumsticks on either side of the sealed end of the turkey and glue them down. That’s it! The result is a quirky, lifelike baked bird that you might just mistake for the real thing.
Attach the drumsticks to the tapered sides of the body where you folded down the edges of the big bag. This will give the turkey a more realistic look.
The different parts of the turkey will have a little weight to them once they’ve been filled. Use enough glue to make sure that everything holds.
Part 2 Finding Creative Ways to Present Your Turkey.
1. Put it on a platter. Arrange your paper bag turkey on a serving platter over a bed of parsley or tissue paper garnish. Surround the turkey with fallen leaves for a splash of vibrant color. With the right details, you’ll have a mouthwatering craft turkey worthy of a fantasy feast to show off to your friends and family.
If you don't have a real serving platter lying around, make your own out of cardboard, construction paper, and colored markers.
Make sure to let everyone, especially small children, know that your paper turkey is not for eating.
2. Add colorful designs. Before you fill the paper bags, decorate the outsides for a more artistic, funky finish. Use crayons, markers, washable paint, stickers or glitter and customize your turkey with polka dots, swirls or dazzling patterns using your favorite colors. Grab a friend, sibling, parent or child to decorate your turkey with, then compare and display them together when you’re done.
If you’re using paint or a felt-tip marker that might saturate the paper bags, allow them to dry before stuffing or shaping them.
When making paper turkeys with your kids or students, have them write down one thing they’re thankful for somewhere on the big bag.
3. Fill it with “stuffing.” For an unexpected tasty twist, ditch the newspaper and fill your turkey with popcorn, candy or other easy-to-eat finger foods instead. You can then have someone “carve” the turkey by cutting a flap in the top and have something to snack on until the main course is served. This imaginative serving style is sure to be a hit at holiday parties!
Popcorn makes a simple stuffing because it’s light and takes up a lot of space, but you could use just about any snack food, like chips, pretzels or chocolates, to fill your turkey.
Try filling the drumsticks separately with caramel corn to make “dark meat.”[6]
4. Put your paper bag turkey on display. In addition to being a fun and easy project to do with your friends or loved ones, your paper turkey will make a unique arrangement for the coffee table, arts and crafts desk or kitchen counter. It will look especially good surrounded by other festive Fall decorations. Best of all, you can store the playful papercraft away or simply make a new one the next time the holiday season rolls around.
A paper bag turkey will fit nicely with other homemade holiday decorations, such as hand turkey cutouts, popsicle stick snowflakes, and construction paper pumpkins.
Tips.
This will make a great activity for parents and teachers to do alongside their children or students.
If the paper bags you’re using have any logos, writings or markings on them, carefully turn them inside out before you begin crafting.
Line the inside of your turkey with wax or parchment paper to prevent splotchy grease stains if you plan on filling it with buttered popcorn.
Make sure you have enough of whatever food item you choose to fill the large bag.
Hot glue is preferable to other adhesives because it dries quickly and creates a strong, lasting hold.
Warnings.
Take caution when working with the hot glue and scissors. Kids should ask an adult for help with the cutting and gluing portions of the project.
Staples should be avoided, as there's no way to use them to secure the different parts of the turkey without mashing them.
Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.
Prepping the Wood.
Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.
Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.
Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.
It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.
Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.
Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.
Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4
Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.
Painting and Sealing the Wood.
Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.
You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.
Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.
Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.
Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.
Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.
Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.
Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.
Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.
If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.
Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.
Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.
If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.
If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.
Trying Other Techniques.
Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.
Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.
You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.
You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.
Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.
If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.
If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.
Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.
The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.
Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.
Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.
Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.
You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.
Tips.
You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.
Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!
It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.
You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.
Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.
Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.
Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.
You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.
Warnings.
Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.
Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.
Things You'll.
Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).
Colored salt is used for art and craft, for decoration, for teaching skills with writing or drawing, and for making rangoli for Diwali. It's easy to make, and depending on the exact items in your craft or kitchen cupboard, you might even be able to make it without buying a thing.
Coloring Salt with Paint.
Fill a container with salt. A jug or pitcher, a deep bowl, a plastic food container, etc. will all suffice.
Squeeze a little tempera paint into the salt.
Mix with a spoon or other item. Stir until the paint is evenly distributed through the salt.
Let stand overnight to dry.
Make as many more colors as you need for your project. That way, they'll all be ready at the same time.
Test before using. Check that the salt has dried before using in your craft, rangoli, teaching, etc. projects.
Coloring Salt with Liquid Food Coloring.
Use liquid food coloring for this method. Choose a color or colors that you wish to work with.
Tip the salt into a resealable bag.
Add the liquid food coloring to the salt. It's recommended that you do this gradually, a drop at a time, so that you can intensify the color as needed and stop when you're happy with it. The more drops added, the more intense the color.
Carefully press the air from the resealable bag without losing the salt. Seal. Wait for around a minute before proceeding, to give the salt time to settle.
Image titled Make Colored Salt Step 10
5
Press down on the bag again and again. This will move the coloring around all of the salt. Knead until you can see that the color has permeated all of the salt in the plastic bag.
Done. The salt is now ready for use. If you see any salt that is damp, let it dry before use, by allowing air into the bag and waiting a few hours more.
If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.
Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.
Coloring Salt with Gel Food Coloring.
For this method, use gel-based food coloring. You should find it dries instantly and won't leave any liquid, which may be the case with liquid food coloring.
Tip the salt into a resealable bag.
Add the gel food coloring. Transfer the gel using an implement such as a wooden or metallic skewer tip, the end of a butter knife or a toothpick. Only use a small amount at a time, adding a little more if you're not yet satisfied with the color. Gel coloring is fairly vibrant with just a little amount, so you don't want to overdo it.
Carefully press down on the bag to remove excess air. Seal tightly.
Shake or knead the color throughout the bag. Ensure that all of the salt is evenly colored.
Done. Given that this is gel, the colored salt should be ready to use immediately.
If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.
Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.
Coloring Salt with Chalk.
Choose a chalk color that you wish to use. Chalks come in a range of pastel and bright colors, depending on where you buy them from. Check art, craft or upmarket toy stores for a wider variety than you might find in traditional stationery or dollar stores.
Cover the workspace with a large sheet of paper.
Pour the salt onto the paper. The amount of salt depends on the amount you need.
Place the piece of chalk on its side, on the salt. Roll the chalk back and forth over the salt on the paper. As you do this, the color from the chalk will color the salt. Keep rolling until you're happy with the color.
Using the paper as a funnel, pour the chalk-colored salt into a resealable bag or a storage container.
Done. The colored salt is now ready to use, or you can store it until needed.
Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.
Tips.
A rolling pin can be used to distribute the color for the resealable bag color-distributing methods; ensure that there is no air in the bag and roll it up and down until the salt is evenly colored.
Keep colored salt in an airtight container when not in use. Make sure that the lid is on firmly, to prevent spilling it.
For a bath treat, add some essential oil drops as well as the colorant.
If making a lot of colored salt in varied colors, use clean food containers to free up the usual kitchen containers for your cooking and eating.
Warnings.
While these crafts are non-toxic, they are very messy. As such, they are best either supervised carefully or done by older children and adults.
Things You'll Need.
Salt (sea salt, rock salt, table salt, Epsom salts, etc. are all fine to use).
Container for holding salt or a resealable bag.
Colorant.
Stirring implement (such as a spoon, a skewer, a chopstick, etc.).
How to Make a Paper Penguin Using an Origami Penguin.
Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!
Steps.
1. Purchase origami paper. This method calls for just a single sheet of 6” x 6” origami paper. If you want a larger penguin, then you can easily go for 12” x 12” paper, but you'll have to multiply any directions containing measurements by two. If you want an even better looking penguin, buy paper that is white on one side and black on the other.
2. Fold diagonal creases along the middle. To start, you want to place the sheet of origami paper flat (with the white side facing up if you have paper with a black side as well). Then fold the paper in half diagonally so the bottom left corner is flush with the top right corner and make a crease. Unfold the paper and do the same with the opposite corners, and then unfold the page again.
When you unfold the sheet again, you will have creases forming a large X across the page.
3. Fold the lower left corner to the center. With the page flat again and the large creases making an X, you will then take the lower left corner of the paper and fold it so that the tip of the corner touches the center of the page. In other words, the corner edge will touch the center of the X made by the earlier creases. Flatten the folded portion and make another crease, then open the sheet so it's flat again.
4. Fold the upper right corner to the crease you just made. You will now have the large X crease as well as a smaller diagonal crease in the lower left of the page. Take the top right corner of the page and fold it over so that it touches the lower left crease. Then open the page once more.
5. Turn the page over. For the next set of folds, you'll need to turn the page over. If you have two-colored paper, this means that the black side will now faces up. When you turn the paper over, orient it diagonally so that the current lower left corner now points up.
6. Fold the left corner to the right corner. With the paper in the new orientation, take the corner pointing left and fold the paper in half so that it's flush with the corner pointing right. There will already be a crease here from when you made this fold on the other side of the sheet, but you'll need to crease it in the opposite direction when you fold it over.
7. Fold the bottom corner over to the right. From the last step, the sheet will now look like a triangle with the side on the left forming a vertical line. Take the corner of the triangle that points down and fold it across at a 45° angle. Fold it so that the horizontal edge made at the top of the fold touches the lower crease already on this part of the page—not the middle crease but the one below it. Once you've made the crease from this fold, turn the flap back over so that you have the same triangle shape you started with.
8. Reverse-fold the corner along the crease you just made. A reverse fold is a bit more three-dimensional than the other folds you've made so far. In order to make the reverse fold, take the crease you just made and crease it in the opposite direction, but make the crease by folding and tucking the corner into the paper.
9. Fold the top half over. With the reverse fold out of the way, you want to take the corner pointing right—just the top layer not both layers—and fold it back on itself. Fold it so that the flat side just above the corner lines up flush with the flat vertical line on the left side of the paper. Make a crease here, but do not unfold the flap. Leave it folded.
10. Turn the page over and make the same fold on the other side. You now want to turn the paper over completely and make the same fold you just made but from the other side. In other words, fold the other corner (the bottom layer from the previous step) over so that its upper edge is also flush with the same flat side of the page.
Especially if you're using a two-colored sheet of paper, this step will make more sense because the form of the penguin will start to become more apparent as the black side of the page will face outward on both sides. As the project continues to take shape, these will be the wings.
11. Turn the paper over again. To prepare for the next major fold, you will need to turn the whole paper over again. When you do, you want to orient the paper so that the really narrow point is pointing upward.
12. Fold the narrow point over to the left. With the paper oriented so that the long, narrow point face up, take that point and fold it over at a 45° angle so that the point now points to the left. You'll see how this fold starts to take shape as the penguin's beak. After making the crease in this fold, return the point to the upward position.
13. Reverse-fold along the crease you just made. This step requires you to make an outside reverse fold along the crease you made in the last step. An outside reverse fold is slightly different from the earlier reverse fold. To make the fold, unfold the paper along the black side slightly, and poke your finger from the white side at the fold you made in the last step. When the creases reverse direction, simply reform the fold so that the two black sides of the sheet are in contact again.
Once again, reverse folds can be a bit difficult to describe.
14. Fold the wing over. Though clearly visible now, the wings won't quite look perfect yet. Take the wing on the side facing up and fold it over so that the white side faces out. You'll fold it back so that the corner which was facing the bottom left now points to the right. Pull it back far enough so that it's just shy of where the little tail is at the bottom of the paper.[
15. Fold the wing back over on itself. Once you've made the crease from the previous step, fold the wing back over on itself so that the black side is once again facing up. Fold it so that the tip of the corner is just shy of touching the horizontal white edge at the bottom of the body.
16. Makes a rabbit's ear fold. To make the rabbit's ear fold, lift the portion of the wing you just folder and reverse the crease from the last step, but only at the bottom of the crease and only at the depth of roughly the tip of your finger. This will makes the bottom tip of the wing into a little flap though the flat edge will still be parallel to the rest of the wing.
17. Repeat steps 14-16 for the other wing. With one wing complete, you're ready to turn the page over and repeat the same steps to form the other wing. Simply use the same folds from steps 14-16 but on the other side.
18. Tuck in the points at the bottom. The bottom of the penguin will still have points sticking out in a slightly misshapen way. Fold each of these points toward the inside of the penguin to make a flat, horizontal bottom to the body. Once you tuck these flaps up, you have your penguin!
If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.
Steps.
1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.
If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.
Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.
2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.
Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.
Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.
Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.
3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.
Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.
Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,
4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.
Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.
If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.
Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.
5. Keep on sorting.
Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.
Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.
6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.
Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.
For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.
7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.
8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.
9. Finished.
Tips.
Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.
Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.
Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.
Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.
Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.
Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.
Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.
Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.
Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.
Things You'll Need.
Craft supplies.
Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.
This winter, you and your family can make an adorable family of polar bears with just a few pom-poms and some chenille stems. With a little glue and a pair of scissors, you can craft an adult pom-pom polar bear as well as a cute baby bear. You can also make a scarf wearing pom-pom polar bear to use as a decoration.
Method 1 Crafting an Adult Pom-Pom Polar Bear.
1. Make the four legs. Take two white chenille stems and cut them in half. Then coil each half-stem around a half-inch (1.25 cm) diameter marker. You will wrap the stem around the marker about five times to create an individual leg. Repeat this process with the remaining stem halves and then glue them onto a two-inch (5 cm) white pom-pom so that they resemble the four legs and body of a polar bear.
2. Put together the head. Cut a chenille stem in half and twist it around the back of a one-inch (2.5 cm) white pom-pom. Coil the ends of the stem towards the pom-pom to create the bear’s ears.
3. Glue the head to the body. Apply some glue to the back of the head where you attached the ears. This will give you plenty of space to make your bear’s face. Then attach it to the front side of the body.
4. Add the face and tail. Glue a half-inch (1.25 cm) sparkly white pom-pom to the front lower section of the bear’s head. Take a mini black pom-pom and glue it to the front end of the sparkly pom-pom to create a nose. Then glue two mini black pom-poms above the nose to create the bear’s eyes. Finally, attach a half-inch (1.25 cm) white pom-pom to the back of the bear’s body to create a tail.
Method 2 Making a Baby Pom-Pom Polar Bear.
1. Glue together the body. With your hot glue gun, attach a half-inch (1.25 cm) white pom-pom to the bottom side of a one-inch (2.5 cm) white pom-pom. Add three more half-inch pom-poms to the same side to create the baby bear’s legs. Once attached, the legs should support the larger pom-pom and hold it off the ground.
2. Attach the ears and head. With a pair of scissors, cut a three-inch (7.6 cm) piece of chenille stem. Bend the stem into a heart shape, with the ends curling in towards each other. Glue the heart-shaped stem between the front end of the body and a half-inch (1.25 cm) sparkly pom-pom to create the head.
3. Make the face and tail. Glue a mini black pom-pom to the lower front section of the head to make a nose. Attach two mini-black pom-poms slightly above the nose to create the eyes. Cut a half-inch (1.25 cm) piece of white chenille and glue it to the back of the body to serve as a tail.
Method 3 Building a Sitting Pom-Pom Polar Bear with a Scarf.
1. Make the body. Glue a one-inch (2.5 cm) pom-pom to the top of a two-inch (5 cm) pom-pom to create the head and body of your bear. Then take two mini white pom-poms and glue them to the top of the head to make the ears. Be sure to keep a little space between the ears.
You can find pom-poms, wiggly eyes and chenille stems at your local crafts store.
2. Attach the face. Glue a mini black pom-pom to the lower front of the bear’s head. Slightly above the nose, attach two small wiggly eyes. The eyes should be about halfway between the ears and the nose.
3. Add the limbs and a scarf. Glue four mini pom-poms to the front side of the bear’s body to make the legs. Attach a fifth mini pom-pom to the back for a tail. Make sure that the two bottom legs and the tail allow the bear to sit and keep it upright. Finally, wrap a three-inch (7.6 cm) piece of red or silver chenille stem around the bear’s neck to serve as a scarf.
When you attach the scarf, do not get it so snug around the bear’s neck that it pops the head off.
Things You’ll Need.
Assorted sizes of white, black, and sparkly white pom-poms, A half-inch (1.25 cm) diameter marker
Silver and white chenille stems, Wiggly eyes, A hot glue gun or craft glue, Scissors.
Warning.
Because the hot glue may burn them, it is important that you monitor your children if they are making the pom-pom bears.
Shrinky Dinks are popular arts-and-crafts plastic sheets that people use to create designs. They saw great popularity with children in the 1980s. Shrinky Dinks are still sold by many major retailers and online commerce sites. You can use them to create colorful art or even jewelry. It’s also possible to make homemade versions of the plastic designs.
Part 1 Creating a Design with Shrinky Dinks.
1. Draw, trace or copy an image onto a Shrinky Dinks plastic sheet. Shrinky Dinks are usually sold as 8-inch by 10-inch plastic sheets.
Use colored pencils, markers, and ink on Shrinky Dinks. Use the colored pencil on the rough side of the sheets, and use Sharpie or permanent marker on the smooth side. Some Shrinky Dinks come pre-cut and with designs already outlined on them, and others will just be the plastic sheets.
Don’t use oily or waxy substances like crayons or oil paint on Shrinky Dinks because they will melt in high heat. Some sheets are machine-sanded frosted sheets that usually come in packs of 10. Some Shrinky Dinks come as non-sanded sheets, though; that version requires permanent markers.
Printing from a computer directly onto a sheet is also possible, and works great with photos. Print letters in a mirror image so they can be read from the nicer shiny side once shrunk. Tracing is popular as well.
2. Cut a design or punch holes in the plastic. You may want to add decorative edges to the plastic, cut out your design, or punch holes in it to make it into a necklace or charms for a bracelet.
Use paper punches if you want holes in the plastic. You might want holes if you are making jewelry or just for decoration. Punch any holes before you bake the Shrinky Dinks.
Cut out your design with decorative or regular scissors.
Part 2 Baking the Shrinky Dinks.
1. Line a cookie sheet tray with non-stick aluminum foil or baking paper. You could also create a mock tray by folding aluminum foil.
Place the Shrinky Dink cut-out designs on the tray, rough side up. Leave space between the Shrinky Dink plastic shapes or they might stick together.
Ovens should only be used with adult supervision.
2. Preheat the oven at 325 degrees Fahrenheit. You probably only need to pre-heat the oven for 1 to 3 minutes. You can use a toaster oven or a conventional oven.
Once the oven is preheated, put the tray with the Shrinky Dinks into the oven.
You only need to bake them for 1 to 3 minutes. At first the Shrinky Dinks will curl up, but they will flatten back out. Once they flatten back out, bake for 30 more seconds.
3. Remove the tray from oven. Use a potholder so you don’t burn yourself, and be careful.
You could flatten your Shrinky Dinks more by pressing them flat with folded paper. However, this step may not be necessary.
Let the Shrinky Dinks cool for a few minutes before handling them. The finished piece will shrink to 1/3 the original’s size, but it will become 9 times thicker. The artwork will be brighter and bolder, and you can more easily preserve it.
Part 3 Making Homemade Plastic Designs.
1. Obtain a piece of #6 plastic. For example, this is the kind of plastic often used in salad bar containers.
Look for a “6” on the bottom of the plastic. The plastic needs to be relatively thick to work.
Cut away the extra plastic until you are left with a flat square.
2. Draw your design on the plastic, using permanent marker. It’s best with this kind of plastic not to use colored pencils.
Once baked, the image will shrink to about a third of its size and will increase in thickness.
Cut your design out and/or punch holes in it. Round the corners a bit as edges may sharpen upon baking.
3. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Put the rack in the lowest oven position. The reason the plastic works for designs is because it’s made out of polystyrene just as Shrinky Dinks are.
Make a tray out of aluminum foil by folding it until it’s thick enough to hold the plastic. Put the plastic designs on the tray.
Bake for about 3.5 minutes. The plastic will curl, and then straighten itself out. Remove, and allow to cool.
As you begin studying art or creating art of your own, you may find it helpful to start with a selection of basic tools and equipment. Your art kit is your own, so take the ones described here as a guide to build upon or modify for your own style.
Method 1. Making an Adult Kit
1. Decide what you will put everything in. Choose something easy to carry around with you, especially if you want to do art on location or you are taking classes. You could use anything from a shoe box to an old briefcase.
Choose an ample container. You are likely to acquire more art supplies as you continue.
Plan to protect the supplies that are sensitive. A hard sided pencil case or simply a tin or shoe box can keep pencils and other delicate items from breaking.
Give some thought to how you will carry paints, brushes, and whatever you will use to clean them, especially if you're painting away from home.
2. Find or buy some basic equipment. Here's a list of what you might need with a rough estimated price. You will not need all of these items; just select what you would like to use and then build up your kit as you go along. You can always add to it later.
Pencil Set.
Pens.
Sketchbook.
Oil Pastels.
Dry Pastels.
Acrylic paint set.
Paint Brushes.
Water Soluble Pencils.
Colouring Pencils.
Glue.
Scalpel.
Metal Ruler.
Pencil sharpener. A small, handheld one will travel well.
Clay.
Method 2. Making a Child's Kit
1. A child's kit is extremely easy to make, since children are naturally creative and they will use just about anything. Here's a child's list to get started.
Colouring Book.
Safety Scissors.
Colouring Pencils.
Pipe cleaners and other items like that.
Non-toxic glue.
Sketchbook.
Play-doh.
Markers.
2. Include a cheap plastic tablecloth or oilcloth in a child's kit and explain to Mom and Dad that it's to go underneath anything messy: paint, clay, glue, etc. Plastic tablecloths easily cover the whole table and they come large enough for several friends or even the whole scout troop to gather around.
3. With this child's kit it's really up to you. Use anything age-appropriate that they can't hurt themselves with.
Tips.
If you want to skip all the hassle of searching through shops you can find lots of different starter kits for children and adults ranging from £5 to £100.
Leave yourself plenty of room to expand. Art supplies have a way of growing.
If your kit is for a child make sure you buy non-toxic products and safety scissors.
Art kits make great gifts. Try to learn a bit about the artist who will receive your kit so that you do inspire and don't duplicate. For gifts, interesting materials (e.g. fabric, paper, wood) might be a good addition, especially if your artist tends toward mixed media or crafts.
Remember that art is more than drawing and painting. If you find yourself drawn toward other activities or media, make the most of it. There's no reason why an extraordinary work of art can't be made of fabric, concrete, plastic, metal, natural materials, found materials, or anything else that will fit the bill. If you're already skilled at welding, sewing, woodworking or the like, you may already have many of the supplies you need.
Did you give an art kit last year? If it was well received, expand on it this year. New materials and supplies can afford an artist the opportunity to expand and can sometimes supply new inspiration.
Colouring is not an especially artistic endeavour. If the child who will receive this art kit happens to enjoy it, go ahead. If not, encourage creativity and innovation by giving a blank sketch book, or look for the "Anti Coloring Book" series.
Start simple, especially if you are making this kit for yourself. If you want to get into drawing, start with just an ordinary pencil and paper, then as you find yourself improving, invest in some color pencils and a sketch book or a simple prepared kit, obtaining supplies as you need them. Remember: gear doesn't make the artist; practice does. This approach will help you to find your artistic style while saving a bit of money and avoiding the clutter of materials you don't use.
Image titled Wild Rose Artists' Supplies and Custom Framing 7478Experiment. If a particular medium, tool, or other item interests you, give it a try. Don't give up on your first attempt, either. Give yourself a chance to get familiar with a new addition before deciding whether to keep at it.
Warnings.
Always supervise young children when they use anything like glue or scissors.
There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!
Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.
1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.
2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.
3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.
4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.
If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.
5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.
6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.
7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.
8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.
9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.
Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.
Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.
10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.
11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.
12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.
13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.
14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.
15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.
Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.
If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.
16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.
17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.
Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.
1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.
Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!
2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.
If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.
3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.
4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.
5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.
6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.
7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.
If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.
8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.
9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.
Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.
If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.
10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.
11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.
Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.
Tips.
You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.
Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).
If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.
Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.
Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.
You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.
If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.
If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.
Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.
Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.
Warnings.
Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.
Things You'll Need
Making a Basic Penguin.
Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.
Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).
Making a Penguin Charm.
Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.
