how to create clay animals

How to Create Clay Animals.

Making clay animals is a great way to turn a dull afternoon into an exciting craft day. With a little effort and a lot of imagination, you can turn your clay dough into a jungle. Once you've mastered animal how-tos, you can create creatures of all colors, shapes, and sizes. All you need is some clay, some around-the-house tools, and a love of animals to create your own mini zoo.



Method 1 Rolling Clay Snakes.

1. Roll a piece of clay between your fingers. Choose your favorite color or just a color you think would make a good snake. Put a piece of clay between your hands and roll it back and forth until you make a long, log shape. You can continue rolling until the snake is as thin or thick as you'd like.

Go as quickly or slowly as you like, depending on how closely you want to monitor your clay log's length.

Be careful not to make your clay log too thin, as it will progressively get more delicate the thinner it gets.

2. Flatten one end of the snake for a head. Poke two holes into the head with a toothpick for eyes, or add a pair of small googly eyes. You can also roll two tiny clay balls between your finger and your thumb and attach them for eyes, if you have neither a toothpick nor googly eyes available.

3. Make a tiny clay tongue. For a tongue, grab a piece of red or pink clay and place it between your finger and thumb. Roll it into a log shape, much like how you rolled your snake but on a smaller scale. Split your log in two at one end to create a forked tongue, and attach it to the end of your snake's mouth.

4. Add patterns to its skin, like polka dots or stripes. For polka dots, flatten tiny clay balls with your finger and thumb and attach them to your snakes body. You can make stripes by rolling tiny clay logs and spacing them across the length of your snake.



Method 2 Making Clay Snails.

1. Choose two different colors of clay. Choose colors that stand out next to each other and do not clash. Red and pink, for example, might not be a great idea. Red and orange, though, can make a pleasant sunset-like effect.

Complementary colors, or colors opposite from each other on the color wheel, look especially bright when next to each other.

2. Roll one color into a log. This will be your snail's shell. Continue rolling the clay until it is long and thin. Make the log as long as possible to make a shell with a detailed spiral. Stop rolling when the log is thin enough to fold in on itself but thick enough that it won't break apart.

You might have to try a few times before you find the right thickness for your shell.

3. Fold the log in on itself. Once you've achieved a good length for your shell, fold the log into a spiral. Start at one end of the clay, which will become the middle of your spiral, and keep folding until your clay shape resembles a cinnamon roll. Set the spiral aside after you finish so you can attach it to the body later.

4. Roll a small log to be the snail’s body. This will be your snail's body, so make it thicker and shorter than your snail shell. After you're done rolling, attach the snail's shell into the back of its body. All you have left to add now are facial details.

5. Add antennae and a face. Roll two small logs for the antennae and attach them to the top of your snail's body. Then, poke two holes with your toothpick for the eyes (or add two small googly eyes).

For a mouth, roll another small log and curve it into a smile. Attach it below the snail's eyes.



Method 3 Sculpting Clay Dogs.

1. Start with a thick oval-shaped ball. This will be your dog's body. You can make it out of a normal color for a dog (like brown, black, or white) or you can use vibrant colors like violet, aquamarine, or pink. Lay the oval down horizontally, and prepare to add the dog's head and four legs.

You can make the body a little longer to make a dachshund-type dog (also known as a wiener dog).

If you'd like to make a dalmatian, use white for your dog's body and add flattened ovals for spots.

2. Make a round ball for the head. Attach it to the top of your dog's body. Press it in until the head sticks. Form two triangles or long ovals from the clay, and attach it to the top of your dog's head for ears. Add eyes and a smile, and top off your dog's face with a round oval for a nose.

Place a flattened red or pink half-circle on your dog's mouth for a floppy tongue.

3. Add four rectangles for the legs. For legs, shape four rectangles out of the clay. Place the legs onto the dog in pairs. Two go in the front of the body and two in the back. Scratch in two or three lines at the bottom of the legs for paws.

4. Attach a tail to your dog's body. Roll a small piece of clay back and forth between your hands, much like how you made the snake. Continue rolling until the tail gets to the desired length. Attach the tail to the back end of your dog's body.



Method 4 Creating Clay Birds.

1. Roll an oval for the body. For a bird body, the oval should be long and oblong. Make the bottom end of the oval larger than the top end. Place the oval upright and prepare to add the bird's head.

2. Make a sphere for the bird's head. Attach the head to the top of the oval and press down until it sticks. Stick on (or poke in) two eyes for your bird. For a beak, roll an orange or yellow ball between your finger and thumb. Use the toothpick to draw a slit lengthwise on the ball. Press the back end of the ball onto your bird's head.

Stretch the top and bottom ends of the beak into points for a less cartoonish beak.

3. Add wings to your bird. Form two ovals out of your clay and flatten them until they are two-dimensional. Place one wing on either side of your bird's body. If desired, you can use the toothpick to draw designs (like feather prints) on your wings.

For a two-colored wing, form two teardrop shapes out of clay and flatten it until it is also two-dimensional. Place one on each of your bird wings.

4. Sculpt two bird feet. Feet on clay birds are optional but can add a nice touch to your bird. Form six small cylindrical tubes. Place the tubes in threes on the bottom of your bird's feet. These will form claws poking out of your bird's body.

Your bird's feet will not be strong enough to support it and may get flattened if placed on a flat surface.



Question : How do I make a butterfly?

Answer : It's really easy. You just make a worm for the body, and make the wings like you make it into a circle, and you kinda make a curve in the middle. Then you can decorate it.

Question : How do I make a fish?

Answer : Take a ball of clay, roll it into a ball, and flatten it. Then, mold it into the desired shape, depending on the type of fish you are making. Make the eyes with black clay and add the details, such as fins. Scales can be made using a toothpick.

Question : How do I create a clay dolphin?

Answer : Curve your log of clay slightly. Pinch one of the ends in the middle so the clay splits off into two parts at the end, and smooth out the two parts of the tail. At the other end, squeeze a tiny bit of the end to create the beak. Poke holes for eyes, and, using a butter knife or your fingernail, press lightly all around the beak to form the mouth. Then, with a toothpick, poke a blowhole on the top of the head. Behind the head, squeeze clay on the back up to make the dorsal fin, and smooth and curve towards the tail. Finally, make the flippers by squeezing clay on the sides directly under the dorsal fin, and smooth out the flippers.

Question : How do I make an authentic clay wolf?

Answer : Make it like a dog, because the two are similar, but if you want to make a howling one, shut the eyes, open the mouth, and tilt it upwards, chin facing down.

Question : How do I make a clay jaguar?

Answer : You mold it the same as you would with a cat, but when it dries, paint spots.

Question : How do I make a whale out of clay?

Answer : Make a fish shape with blue clay, but make the tail end face upward and downward. Make a hole on the top (don't make gills or scales) for the blowhole.

Question : Can the spots be made of clay that isn't cured?

Answer : Yes, if you don't have time to let it cure or paint. It's okay with play dough or people in a hurry.

Question : How do I make a snake?

Answer : Making a snake is very easy. Just roll out a log of clay. Make one end pointy and the other end flat. Add two black eyes with clay, beads, or poke the head (the flat end) with a toothpick to make eyes. Add a forked tongue if desired. Add dots, swirls, patterns, lines, and twirls if desired.

Question : Can I create clay animals out of Play-Doh?

Answer : Yes, if it is just temporary. But if you are looking to make it permanent, then no.

Question : How do I make a clay cat?

Answer : You'll need seven pieces of clay: four feet, one long one for the body, a ball for the head and a long skinny piece for the tail. Pinch up two ears on top the head and draw in the face and whiskers. You can also make whiskers by rolling very thin bits of clay.



Tips.

Sculpt your animals out of salt-based clay so can bake them in the oven and keep them once they harden.

Thin parts of the animals, like ears and tails, are fragile. Handle these areas gently as you create your animals.

Once you've mastered these animals, get creative and make your own clay animal designs. You can make any clay animal that you set your mind to!

If your animal doesn't turn out the way you'd like, don't feel bad. The best part about clay is that you can always start over.

You can buy inexpensive jewelry findings from craft stores. Try using these to make your animals into unique, handmade jewelry.

Things You'll Need : Clay, Toothpicks, Googly eyes.

Februari 24, 2020

how to make a animal ballon monkey

How to Make a Animal Ballon Monkey.

Learn how to make balloon animals and share your skill at a festival or party. People love making a special request and seeing a colorful balloon animal come to life. Get familiar with the twisting techniques that form the foundation for every balloon animal, then put your knowledge to use by making a balloon dog, monkey, and swan.

Learning the Fundamental Twists.

1. Make a basic twist. Inflate a balloon and tie it off at the end. Grasp it near the tie in your non-dominant hand. Use your dominant hand to twist the balloon a few times so that you create a separate balloon segment. In order to keep the balloon from untwisting, hold the two segments with one hand.

Use #260 balloons, which are long balloons designed for the purpose of being made into balloon animals. These are available at party stores and costume stores. Water balloons and party balloons can't be twisted into animal shapes.

You can inflate the balloons using your lungs, but it's far easier to use a small hand pump. These are available at toy stores and party stores that sell balloon supplies.

You should be able to grasp the balloon firmly without it popping. Keep your fingernails and jewelry away from the surface of the balloon so they don't catch on the rubber and pop it. If the balloon seems to pop at the slightest touch, try using a higher-quality brand. Less expensive balloon brands use less rubber in their balloons, and the thinner surface area is much easier to pop.

2. Make a lock twist. Inflate a balloon, tie it off and make two basic twists close together, so that the balloon has a total of four segments. Hold all four segments in the same hand to keep them from coming untwisted. Use your other hand to grasp the two middle segments and gently hold them apart from the two end segments. Twist the two middle segments together three times, then hold up the balloon. The segments are now locked in place.

The lock twist is used to hold the balloon sculpture together, since without it the balloon comes untwisted.

The lock twist is also used to make small balloon animal ears and other animal features.

3. Make a fold twist. Inflate a balloon, tie it off and make one basic twist near the end. Holding the twist in place with one hand, use your other hand to fold the top of the balloon down. Grasp the twist and the top of the balloon and twist them together three times so that you form a loop. The balloon now has three segments: two end segments and one loop segment.

The fold twist functions like a lock twist, in that it prevents the balloon from becoming untwisted.

The fold twist is often used to create ears, noses, and other animal features.

Steps Making a Balloon Monkey.

1. Inflate the balloon and leave a 6-inch tail. Leaving a shorter tail might result in the balloon popping halfway through the sculpting process, so make sure you have plenty of uninflated balloon at the end. Tie off the balloon with a knot.

2. Make a basic twist. Twist the balloon a few inches from the knot to create a small segment that will be the monkey's face. Hold both segments in one hand to prevent them from untwisting.

3. Make a short fold twist. Start by making a second basic twist close to the first one so that you have a small segment in between the twists. Fold the segment so that the two twists line up. Use your free hand to grasp the folded segment and twist it three times to lock it in place. You've just made the monkey's first ear.

4. Make another basic twist. A couple of inches from the first ear, make another basic twist to create a short segment. Hold it in one hand so that it doesn't untwist. This new short segment will be the monkey's forehead.

5. Make another short fold twist. Start by making a second basic twist close to the first one so that you have a new small segment between the twists. Fold this segment so that the two twists line up. Use you free hand to grasp the folded segment and twist it three times to lock it in place. This is the monkey's second ear.

6. Twist the ears together. Carefully grasp the two ears by the twists at their bases. The forehead segment will be sticking out between them. Twist the ears together three times to lock them in place. The monkey's head is now complete: it has a nose, a forehead, and two ears.

7. Make three more basic twists. Make the first twist a few inches below the head to form the neck segment. Make two more twists lower down to form two segments that are equal in length. These will become the monkey's arms. Hold all of the segments in one hand to prevent them from untwisting.

8. Twist the arms together. Fold the balloon at the twist between the two arm segments. Grasp the segments and twist them three times at the base of the neck segment to lock the arms and neck in place. The balloon should now resemble a monkey with a head, neck and arms.

9. Make three more basic twists. Make the first twist a few inches below the arms to form the body segment. Make two more twists lower down to form two segments that are equal in length. These will become the monkey's legs. Hold all of the segments in one hand to prevent them from untwisting.

Leave plenty of room at the end of the balloon for the tail, which should be the longest segment of all.

10. Twist the legs together. Fold the balloon at the twist between the two leg segments. Grasp the segments and twist them together three times at the base of the body. The body and legs are now locked in place, and the tail is hanging down from the body.

11. Make a coconut tree trunk. Choose a balloon in a contrasting color and inflate it completely, then tie it off. There's no need to leave a tail at the end. Slide it between the monkey's arms and legs so that the monkey appears to be climbing it.

FAQ.

Q : How do I tie a balloon?

A : Wrap it around your two fingers first, and then swoop it around in between your two fingers, then pull your fingers out and you will have a knot.

Q : How do I make a balloon ring?

A : Just tie the two ends of a long balloon together and put it around your finger. If it's too big, use a smaller balloon.

Q : How do I make a balloon sword?

A : Inflate the balloon so there is no tail and straighten the last portion of the balloon. Make a handle towards the knot using a basic twist to help lock it. Use the dog ear/leg pattern twice to make the hand guard. Maneuver the two "ears" gently as so they are opposite from each other and face perpendicular from the handle. Keep the hand guards small and the handle just big enough for your hand to fit on, otherwise you will end up with something closer to a knife.

Q : How do I make a balloon owlet?

A : Make the balloon dog, but leave it round and glue a felt or paper beak on it.

Q : How can I make a balloon caterpillar?

A : Choose a long, sausage-shaped balloon and inflate it. Make antennae by getting another balloon, twisting it into a V-shape and put it in place at the head end. Also, draw the eyes and mouth with a marker.

Tips.

Carry balloons in your pocket to school, wedding receptions, any place where children may roam.

Put glitter inside the balloons so when they pop there will be a glitter explosion that people will like.

Carry a permanent marker and make a smiley face on your animal.

If balloon pops, laugh, make a joke about "blowing up" some balloons for fun and start over. Children will back up a step but they won't leave.

If it pops, pretend that it was part of the entertainment; play it cool.

Use an inexpensive balloon pump from a toy store. Some people can inflate a #260 by mouth, but not many. Hand pumps are more sanitary.

Experiment with other sizes and shapes of balloons to make apples and bumblebees.

Every child in the room will want one. Seriously. Do not send children home crying if it can be avoided.

Use new balloons rather than stored ones. Older balloons are more likely to pop when you are inflating or twisting.

It helps to inflate the entire balloon until air is spread throughout, then to deflate it slightly, leaving about 3 inches (7.6 cm) at the end as mentioned in step 3.

Warnings.

Balloons are not for little children due to danger of choking.

Things You'll Need : Uninflated #260 balloons, Balloon pump.

Desember 27, 2019

how to make a ball

How to Make a Ball.

Balls provide endless entertainment for kids and adults alike, so make your own if you want a fun toy to play with this weekend. But there are balls for other occasions, too. If you’re having a rough week, for instance, create a stress ball to squeeze when you just want to scream. Or get creative and make balls out of things like rubber bands, fabric, and even cheese!

Method 1 Making a Bouncy Ball.

1. Combine school glue, cornstarch, and any add-ins in a bowl. Stir together the 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch until they’re thoroughly combined, using a spoon or wooden stick. If you want to add any extras, like food coloring or glitter, do so now.

You can use either white or clear school glue. If you use white glue and don’t add any coloring, your ball will be white.

Fun Add-Ins for Your Bouncy Ball

Sprinkle in glitter for a little extra sparkle.

Squeeze in a few drops of food coloring to make a ball in your favorite hue.

Stir glow in the dark paint into the glue for a ball that can be used at night.

Swirl 2 colors of food coloring together if you want a multi-colored masterpiece.

2. Stir warm water and Borax together in a separate bowl. Mix 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water and 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax until the Borax is completely dissolved. Stir vigorously to ensure there are no clumps of powder left in the bowl.

Heat the water in the microwave or on the stove until it’s warm to the touch. It shouldn’t be boiling.

You can find Borax in the laundry aisle of a store.

Borax is safe to use, but it's poisonous if ingested in large quantities. If you or your child get it in your eyes or mouth, contact poison control immediately.

3. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of the Borax mixture in the bowl with the glue. Do not stir the ingredients together when you add them. Simply pour the Borax and water into the other bowl containing the glue and cornstarch.

Set aside the remaining Borax mixture if you plan on making more balls.

4. Let the mixture sit for 15 seconds. This allows time for the Borax to react with the glue, making the polymers of the glue link together which will create the ball shape. If you start stirring right away, the bouncy ball may not form or harden properly.

Set a kitchen timer or use the clock app on your phone to keep track of the time.

5. Use a spoon to combine the ingredients until they’re too thick to stir. Within 1 to 2 minutes, the mixture will thicken. Stir vigorously while the mixture is still liquid to make sure the ingredients are blended well.

Choose a sturdy spoon, like a metal or thick plastic one. Something flimsy, like a plastic spoon, will likely break off in the goo.

If you’ve made homemade slime with Borax, this process is very similar.

6. Remove the mixture and roll it between your hands to form a ball. Once the mixture is too thick for your spoon or stick, pull it out of the bowl and place it between your palms. Roll it around by moving your hands in circular motions until the ball is no longer sticky.

The more you handle the ball, the more firm it will become.

If you’re having trouble getting rid of the stickiness, dip the ball in the Borax water, then roll it a little more. This should remove any tacky texture.

7. Let the ball harden for about 10 to 20 minutes before you use it. This dries the ball a little more, so that it’s extra bouncy. If the ball starts to flatten while it sits, simply roll it back into shape when you’re ready to play with it.

Once you’re done playing, store the ball in an airtight container to prevent it from drying out. Keep it in a cool, dark place, like the pantry.

If stored properly, your ball could last for up to 6 months. It won’t go bad, but it will dry out eventually.

To make more bouncy balls, mix up another batch of glue and cornstarch and use some of the leftover Borax and water mixture.

Things You'll Need.

2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water, 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch.

Spoon or wooden stick, 2 cups or small bowls, Food coloring or other add-ins (optional), Airtight container (optional).

Method 2 Creating a Paper Soccer Ball.

1. Trace 20 hexagons on white paper, then cut them out. Draw your hexagons on the paper with a template, making each side the exact same length. Use scissors to carefully cut along the traced shapes, then set them aside.

If you want a life-sized soccer ball, make the edges 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.

To make a template, use a ruler to draw the hexagon shape on a piece of cardboard. Cut it out and trace around it with a pencil to make each paper hexagon.

Cardstock is the best type of paper to use for this craft. It’s sturdy enough to hold the shape of the ball yet still easy to fold.

2. Trace and cut out 12 black pentagons with sides the same length. The edges of the black and white pieces need to be equal so that they fit together properly. Use a template to draw your pentagon shapes, then cut them out with scissors.

For example, if you’re creating a life-sized ball, make your pentagon sides 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.

You can use a different color paper instead of black, or get creative and make a multi-colored ball with a variety of shades.

Cut a pentagon template out of cardboard to trace on the black paper so that the pieces are all equal size.

3. Fold up a thin border around each hexagon and pentagon. This edge will allow you to build your ball seamlessly, so there are no gaps between pieces. You only want to fold enough of each edge to have a place to apply glue or tape. Keep the border size equal on each piece so they all remain the same size after folding.

To fold the same border on each piece, trace the border before you fold, using a ruler to ensure each edge is an equal width.

Use a straight edge, like a ruler, to help you fold the edges in a perfect line.

If the edges are crooked, re-fold them. They have to be straight for your ball to be the right shape.

To make folding easier, snip off the corners of your border before you fold. This allows you to fold the edges up without dealing with corners that crumple up or stick out.

4. Apply glue or tape to the folded edges of each piece. This is how you’ll stick the the pieces together to form the ball. Swipe glue on each of the edges of all the hexagons and pentagons. You can also use a strip of tape on the edges instead.

A glue stick will work better than liquid glue to prevent the paper edges from getting soggy.

If you are slow at putting the ball together, you may want to apply the glue as you go, rather than all at once. Otherwise, it will dry out on the final pieces by the time you get to them.

5. Attach 5 white hexagons to 1 black pentagon. On a standard soccer ball, each black piece is completely surrounded by white pieces. Press 1 white hexagon onto each edge of a black pentagon. Hold the edges together until the glue dries.

If you’re using a glue stick, the glue will dry almost instantly. Wait about 5 to 10 seconds while pressing the edges against one another.

6. Continue gluing the pieces together in this pattern, forming the soccer ball. On the other edges of the white hexagons that you attached to the original pentagon, glue more black pentagons. Don’t forget to glue the white edges that touch each other, too. Once you connect all of the pieces, you’ll have a ball shape.

A black piece should never touch another black piece. However, white edges will touch other white edges.

If you’re having trouble visualizing the pattern, look up an image of a soccer ball online as a guide.

You can stuff the ball with shreds of paper if you want to create a fuller shape.

Things You'll Need.

Black and white sheets of paper, Scissors, Cardboard.

Pencil or pen, Glue stick or tape, Homemade Stress Ball, 12 in (30 cm) latex balloon.

Method 3 Using Play Dough for a Homemade Stress Ball.

1. Use your hands to roll play dough into a long shape. Place a pile of play dough on a flat surface, then gently roll it out with the palms of your hands. This should form what looks like a snake.

It doesn’t matter what color play dough you use, since it will just be going inside the balloon.

Buy pre-made play dough or make your own at home.

If you buy play dough, use one 5 oz (140 g) container per balloon.

2. Insert the play dough into the balloon. Stretch the neck of the balloon open as wide as you can, then stuff the play dough snake into the balloon. The play dough should fill the balloon just to the base of the neck.

If there is a lot of empty space in the balloon, add more play dough.

Stretch out the neck of the balloon before you insert the play dough to loosen it up.

This step is easier if you have someone else hold the balloon open while you put the play dough inside.

3. Tie a knot in the neck at the top of the balloon to secure it. This will keep all of the play dough inside the balloon. Wrap the neck around your finger to make your knot, tying it as tightly as possible.

If you want extra protection, you can place your original balloon inside another empty balloon before tying it shut. This adds a double layer in case you poke a hole.

You can decorate your stress balls with permanent markers if you’d like. For example, you could draw a funny face or write a calming phrase, like “just breathe.”

Things You'll Need.

Permanent marker (optional).

Method 4 Forming Other Types of Balls.

1. Build a rubber band ball for a creative way to store supplies. Instead of tossing your rubber bands in a drawer, keep them together in 1 big ball. Fold up a thick rubber band to form the center, then begin wrapping all of other bands around it. Criss-cross directions often to round out the ball.

You can also wrap your bands around a bouncy ball or crumpled-up piece of paper for a larger ball.

Start with smaller rubber bands, then add the larger ones as the ball gets bigger.

2. Sew a fabric ball if you want a soft toy for kids or pets. Young children, particularly babies, could get injured by hard rubber balls. Instead, stitch together a ball out of strips of fabric, then stuff it with polyfill for a plush feel or use dried beans for a bean bag texture.

This also makes a great pet toy for dogs to chew on or for cats to bat around. If the ball is for a pet, pick a durable fabric like vinyl or nylon and keep your pet in sight as it plays with the ball.

You can use a sewing machine to make your ball or sew it by hand.

Cotton is ideal for kids’ toys since it’s a long-lasting and soft fabric that’s easy to wash.

3. Use ice to make a ball for a unique cocktail add-in. Not only do ice spheres look much cooler than regular cubes floating in your drink, they also melt slower, so your beverage doesn't get watered-down as quickly. Fill a silicone ice ball mold with water, then place it in the freezer for at least 6 hours, or until the balls have set and hardened.

For extra flair and flavor, add things like fresh herbs or edible flowers into the water in the mold before it freezes.

You can buy ice ball molds from a kitchen store or online retailer.

4. Make a cheese ball if you’re having people over for dinner or a party. When it’s your turn to play host or hostess, whip up a cheese ball as an impressive appetizer. Mix together cream cheese and other soft cheeses, shape it into a ball, then chill it in the refrigerator. Roll it in chopped nuts and other garnishes before serving.

You can substitute mascarpone, neufchatel, or goat cheese for the cream cheese if you’d like.

Pair any type of softer cheese with the creamy base, depending on your taste preferences. As long as it’s not a dry, crumbly cheese like parmesan, it will work.

Serve a cheese ball with finger foods for dipping, like crackers, pretzels, or raw veggies.

Warnings.

Borax is poisonous. Get help immediately if you accidentally ingest it or get it in your eyes.

Never let young children handle Borax without close supervision.

Januari 20, 2020

how to make a paper cat

How to Make a Paper Cat.

Paper is a great medium for a variety of projects! If you love cats and want to create some of these whimsical creatures out of paper, try making an origami cat, which is simple and fun. For another simple project, cut a cat out of a paper plate. If you have cardstock around, enjoy making a kitty that stands up on its own.



Method 1 Making an Origami Cat.

1. Fold a square piece of paper in half to make triangles. Grab one corner and pull it diagonally across the square to the other corner, lining them up on top of each other. Line up the edges, too. Make a crease across the paper, creating one triangle folded on top of another.

Run your fingernail across the crease to make it sharper.

2. Crease the triangle by folding it in half again and unfold it. With the original fold at the top, bring the top right corner over to meet the top left corner, lining them up. Make sure the edges are aligned, and then crease it down the middle. You should now have a smaller triangle with a fold on the right.

Once you've run your fingernail along this crease, open it up again to the original triangle you folded.

3. Fold the 2 corners of the triangle down. Lift up the right corner of the triangle. Bring it over toward the middle. When you make this fold, the edge of the triangle will start at the middle point of the larger triangle on the long top side and run outward to one side of the bottom point. The point will hang over the edge of the larger triangle. Make a crease along the top. Do the same on the other side.

4. Bring the bottom point up about halfway. Grab the point at the bottom and make a fold about 1/4 of the way up the triangle. That will leave the point about halfway up. Use your finger to make a crease across this fold.

At this point, you should have a triangle on each side with the points hanging over the edge. In the middle, you'll have a large triangle with a smaller triangle inside it.

5. Flip the paper over to see your cat and draw a face. When you flip it over, turn the paper so the pointed parts you folded over the edge are at the top, making the ears. Draw on eyes, a nose, mouth, and whiskers, and your paper kitty is done.



Method 2 Creating a Cat out of a Paper Plate.

1. Flatten out and paint the plate. Use your fingers to stretch out the edge of the paper plate as much as possible. Paint the back side of the plate the color you want your cat to be. Black works well for a scary Halloween cat!

You can use acrylic paint, tempura paint, or even finger paint. Apply it with a sponge brush, sponge, or large paintbrush.

2. Trace and cut out a large circle on one edge of the plate. Use a food container top or another large circle you have. The circle should take up about 50% of the larger circle. Trace it close to one edge on the non-painted side, then cut out the circle and that edge together.

You can also use a compass to trace the circle.

You want the larger circle to end up looking like a crescent moon with pointed ends.

3. Outline a smaller circle on the head piece for cutting out the head, tail, and ears. The head piece is the smaller circle you snipped out of the original plate. Using a container lid, trace a smaller circle onto the back of this piece in the smooth part of the plate and snip around it. Leave the wrinkled edge for the tail. From the strip you have left, cut out 2 small triangles for ears and a curved piece for the tail.

4. Tape the head and tail on the crescent. Flip the crescent shape so the points are downward, forming the legs. Turn it to the non-painted side. Tape or glue the smaller circle on one side of the arch near the top. Place it slightly behind the big circle. Arrange the tail arching away from the crescent on the other end and tape or glue it into place.

The painted sides should all be facing front.

5. Glue or tape the ears, eyes, nose, and whiskers on the cat's face. Glue the ears you cut out on the back of the cat's head with the painted side facing forward. Cut out small strips for the whiskers and glue them into place. For the eyes and nose, you can cut out pieces of paper in other colors or use googly eyes and a pompom for the nose.

For a cat nose, cut a little triangle out of pink paper. For eyes, cut eye shapes then draw in slits in the middle.



Method 3 Cutting out and Gluing a Paper Cat.

1. Slice a piece of 11 by 8.5 inches (28 by 22 cm) cardstock in half. Create 2 rectangles. Each one will be 5.5 by 8.5 inches (14 by 22 cm). You'll use one half for the body of the cat and one half for the head and tail.

This can be any color you want. Try black for Halloween or a white cat for winter!

2. Start the body by folding 1 piece of the cardstock in half. Find the middle of the long edge on one of the smaller pieces of cardstock you just cut. Fold it over to make this long edge half the size; make sure the edges meet.

For another type of body, cut out a wide triangle with a curved edge. Pull the sides of the triangle together to overlap, making a cone. Glue the edges together. You can cut out small strips of paper for feet at the bottom.

3. Finish the body by cutting out a half circle. On the folded rectangle, find the new long edge that's not the folded edge. Come in about 1 inch (2.5 cm) on this edge and cut a half circle that reaches to about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the other side.

This makes the body and the legs; the top of the half circle is the body and the parts that come down are the legs. Unfold the rectangle slightly to make an "A" shape. On the bottom of each leg, bend out a small square that's about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) long; fold it at a 90-degree angle to make feet.

4. Glue the body onto a small piece of cardstock. Use a half sheet of cardstock, though pick a different color from the cat. Add glue to the bottom of the cat's feet and press them onto the cardstock. As you glue the body, make an "A" shape with it using the feet as the bottom of the "A." Hold the feet in place for a few seconds until the glue starts to set.

If you used the cone-shaped body, you don't need to glue it to anything, as it is sturdy enough as it is.

5. Slice a tail off of the second piece of cardstock you cut in the beginning. Cut about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of cardstock off one of the short ends, leaving a rectangle that's about 7.5 by 5.5 inches (19 by 14 cm). Cut off the corners of the strip so that the tail is pointed at both of the short ends.

You could cut out a curvy tail instead if you prefer!

6. Cut the head out of the rest of the second piece of cardstock. Fold the piece of paper so that you half the long side. On the long non-folded edge, make the cat's chin by curving the corners with scissors. Unfold the rectangle for a moment, and start cutting halfway up the bottom rectangle; as you do, angle the cut in about 1 inch (2.5 cm) and stop at the crease in the middle. Fold the rectangle back, and the cuts you just made will pop up for the ears.

Run your fingernail along the crease at the top to make sure the cat's face stays folded.

7. Create the eyes and whiskers by cutting them out of paper. For the eyes, cut out 2 eye shapes from a contrasting color. Yellow goes well with black! Draw in a slit on each eye with a marker. Using the scraps of paper from your cat's main color, cut out small strips of paper for the whiskers. Glue the eyes and whiskers in place on the cat's face.

8. Add the tail and face to the cat's body by cutting slots for them to slide into. Along the top of the fold on the cat's body, cut a small slit going downward on either end of the body about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the ends. Slide the back rectangle of the cat's face into one end, facing away from the body. Slide one end of the tail into the back slit.

Add a bit of glue if they don't want to stay in place.



Question : Is there a way to make it 3D?

Answer : There is a pattern in the Silhouette library for a 3D paper cat. There are also many patterns and ideas if you Google "3D paper cat."

Question : Can I make it 3D?

Answer : Paper is not a good medium for 3D creations. Try making a cat from modelling clay instead of paper.

Question : Why doesn't the cat have a body?

Answer : It has nowhere to stick the body to -- but you could try to make it out of modeling clay.



Things You'll Need.

Making an Origami Cat : Square piece of paper, Pen or marker.

Creating a Cat out of a Paper Plate : Paper plate, Acrylic paint, Paintbrush, Scissors, Circular lid, Glue or tape, Paper scraps or googly eyes and a pompom.

Cutting out and Gluing a Paper Cat : Cardstock, Scissors, Glue or glue stick.

Februari 12, 2020

how to making a decorative pinwheel

How to Making a Decorative Pinwheel.

Pinwheels are a beautiful decoration and delight children of all ages. Use them to decorate your yard for a party, or happily watch your children as they admire the bright colors whirling together. Once you know how to make a basic pinwheel, you can make a fancier one with more spokes. You can also make a disc-shaped pinwheel. It won't spin, but it'll look lovely as a wall decoration or ornament.

1. Cut a sheet of patterned scrapbooking paper into four strips. Get some 12-inch (30.48-centimeter) square scrapbooking paper. Use a metal ruler and a craft blade to cut the paper into four, 3-inch (7.62-centimeter) wide strips.

Some scrapbooking paper has a white strip along the bottom edge for the price and label. You should trim this off first.

These pinwheels are meant to be used as decorations on gifts, walls, or ornaments. They do not spin like regular pinwheels.

2. Fan-fold the strips widthwise. Take your first strip, and fold the narrow edge over by ½ to 1-inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters). Use that as a fold as a guide for the rest of the paper. Repeat this step for the remaining three strips.

3. Consider adding a design to one of the long edges. Fold your strip back up so that it looks like a closed fan. Cut an angle into one of the narrow edges. Work one strip at a time, otherwise, the paper will be too thick to cut neatly.

You don't have to do this step. This will simply give the pinwheels a more ornate edge.

4. Attach the pieces together to make a longer strip. Place a strip of tape against one of the narrow ends of your first strip. Place it against the narrow end of the next strip, then press them together. Keep connecting the strips until you have one long strip.

If both ends of the strips are folded in opposite directions, they will make a V or ^ shape. Trim off one of the ends until both are folded in the same direction.

5. Attach the first and last strips together to make a disk. Run some glue or a strip of double-sided tape along one of the narrow ends. Bring the other narrow end towards it, and press the two together.

6. Flatten the disk. If the disk won't lay flat, you will need to glue a support to the back. Flip the disk over so that the back is facing you. Choose a dowel, straw, or skewer that is the same height as the disk. Hot glue your chosen stick down the center of the disk, right between two ridges.

7. How glue an embellishment to the front of the disk. For a fancy look, you can cut a small circle out of coordinating paper, then glue it to the front to cover the hole. For a more rustic touch, you can use a large button instead.

8. Cut a circle cut from cardstock to the back of the pinwheel. This will make it easier to secure the pinwheel to walls, gifts, and other items. It would be best if you use a matching color, but you can use a different color as well.

Use a cup, jar, or lid to trace the circle.

9. Use double-sided tape to secure the pinwheel. Place a few strips of double-sides tape onto the back of the pinwheel, right over the cardstock circle. Secure the pinwheel to your desired gift of banner.

If you are securing the pinwheel to a wall, consider using double-sided, foam mounting tape instead.

Alternatively, you can string several pinwheels together to make a banner.

10. Finished.


Tips.

Make your pinwheel out of thin plastic, such as acetate, binder dividers, or stencil plastic.

Wrap a pretty ribbon in a spiral around the dowel before adding the pinwheel.

For an even fancier pinwheel, paint the stick with acrylic paint or spray paint beforehand. Let it dry before adding the pinwheel.

You can use a drinking straw instead of a dowel. It won't be as durable, but it will be easier to assemble.

Glue a bead, button, or charm to the pin on the front of your pinwheel for a fancy touch.

Make your own double-sided scrapbooking paper by gluing two sheets of paper back-to-back.

Decorate plain paper with rubber stamps.

You can make a simpler pinwheel by securing everything with a thumbtack to the side of a pencil eraser.


Things You'll Need.

Colorful paper.

Pencil.

Ruler.

Scissors.

Double-sided tape.

Hot glue gun and hot glue sticks.

Stapler.

Cardboard scraps or buttons.

November 30, 2019

how to make a bird nest

How to Make a Bird Nest.

A bird's nest makes a wonderful mantelpiece decoration, and can make use of almost anything you find along a nature hike, or in your front yard. Wild birds usually prefer to make their own nests, but you can lure many species to your yard by leaving the right materials outside, or building a nesting box.

Method 1 Building a Decorative Nest.

1. Find long, flexible plant stems. These will form the main shape of the nest, and are much easier to work with than hard, short twigs. You can use straw, long grass, vines, willow fronds, bendy reeds, or seagrass found outdoors or at a garden supply store. Raffia is another good option, obtainable from a craft supply store.

If Mexican feather grass grows in your area, grab a clump of it and pull your hand upward to remove a handful of hairy seeds clinging together. Once you have enough seeds, clump them into a ball and make a nest shape by sticking your thumb into it.

2. Bend the stems into a loop. Grab a thick handful of the stems, and bend them into a U shape, adding more stems if necessary to form a full circle. Tie it in place using a piece of string or florist wire. If the plant stems have many little leaves, or if they're wiry and dry, you can even weave them together without using any attachment.

If tying the nest together is too hard, you can clip them temporarily in place while waiting for glue to dry. Don't use glue if you plan to keep the nest outdoors.

If your fresh-cut plants won't stay in position, try hanging up the bundle in a windy area to dry for 24 hours. Some plant stems are easier to bend when fresh, but grasses and straw benefit from drying.

3. Shape the rest of the nest. Grab a second, smaller handful of stems and shape it into a smaller loop. Wedge this inside the larger loop and push it downward to form the base of the loop. Depending on how well the stems fit together and how sturdy you want the nest to be, you may need to use a thread  or glue to fasten the two loops together.

4. Decorate with scavenged materials. Real birds sometimes spend days collecting bits and pieces to build a nest. Hopefully you're a little faster, but you can still have fun gathering objects from nature or your craft boxes. Here are some ideas to get you started:

If you plan to leave the nest outside, only use materials found outdoors, and nothing that could hurt an animal.

Feathers and pieces of eggshell fit the theme. Be aware that collecting most wild feathers is illegal in the United States, but they are mostly harmless from a disease perspective.

Look for twigs, leaves, bark, and moss in interesting shapes and colors.

If the nest is for indoor decoration, you can use bits of string, colored paper shreds, and confetti.

5. Place eggs inside (optional). Finish your art project by placing eggs or fake eggs inside the nest. You can quickly add marbles or colorful pebbles, or hollow out real eggs, decorate them, or even carve them if you have the right tools.

Things You'll Need.

Any long, flexible bundle of stems, grass, or straw, String, florist's wire, or glue (recommended unless stems interweave easily).

Moss, bark, twigs, or other decorative materials, Eggs and egg-blowing materials (optional), Marbles, pebbles, or other "fake eggs" (optional).

Method 2 Attracting Wild Birds to Nearby Nests.

1. Look up the nesting habits of local birds. Find a local wildlife guide at a library or bookstore, or search online for information on local birds. Choose one or more species you want to attract, and look up their nesting habits to discover what shape and style of nest will be most effective.

If you live in North America, NestWatch is an excellent resource for nesting information, and one you can expand with your own data.

2. Leave nesting material in your yard. This is an easy way to attract birds, and might be worth it even if you end up building a full nest as well. If you managed to find specific nesting information, you'll know what materials to leave, but you can't go wrong with a few items from the following list, left in visible locations:

Rigid twigs (for platform nest species) and flexible ones (for cup nest species).

Yard clippings such as dry grass and straw, bits of bark and moss, dead leaves, etc.

Human or animal hair or fur (no longer than 6 inches / 15 centimeters).

Yarn or string.

Mud, spiderwebs, and/or caterpillar cocoons to help birds bind nesting materials together.

Never leave out materials that have come into contact with harsh chemicals, including dye, pesticides, or anti-flea treatments. Dryer lint and clothing rags are not recommended.

3. Provide a variety of plants. If you want to attract birds that make nests in existing holes, leave dead tree stumps and fallen logs in the yard. Living trees and bushes will attract more visible nests from other species, especially if the plants are native to your area. For best results, plant a "staircase" of grass or moss, flowering perennials, shrubs, and trees.

4. Build a nesting box. If there aren't obvious crevices or hollows in your yard, building a nesting box or birdhouse is a simple carpentry project. Make sure the birdhouse is constructed to match the size of the birds you want to attract, or the size of the birds you see flying near your home.

For a higher chance of success, follow birdhouse building instructions specific to common North American species.

Clean out the birdhouse regularly whenever birds are not nesting.

5. Make a bird's nest. Many birds prefer to make their own nest rather than move in to a ready-made one. Lining natural hollows with the nesting materials listed above may give a bird an attractive head start. If you want to make a different type of nest, such as a cup or platform nest, it's best to follow the specific habits of the bird species you want to attract. Each species tends to prefer certain materials.

Placement of the nest is also important. Many bird species hide their nest amidst thick branches, but some prefer more open branches, bushes, or open patches of ground. Look for more information on NestWatch, through online searches, or in a local bird nest identification guide.

Things You'll Need.

Any yard clippings, especially twigs and grasses, String or yarn, Mud, spiderwebs, or caterpillar cocoons.

Human hair or animal fur, Small amount of lumber and nails (to build a nesting box, if hollow logs not available).

Question : Where do you get all the supplies?
Answer : You can find the necessary items on the ground in a park or wooded area, perhaps even your back yard!

Question : How do I make the nest big?
Answer : You can use longer sticks that are pliable enough to bend. Just make sure not to break them.

Question : What if I live in the city?
Answer : If you live in the city and want to attract birds, put up bird feeders. Birds love cracked corn, nyjer seeds, black oil seeds, fruits, and millet. Just make sure to take measures to keep the squirrels out.

Question : Am I allowed to take care of a wild baby bird if its mother is away and it's storming outside?
Answer : No. Leave the baby bird alone. Its mother will come back for it. Wild animals can take care of each other and themselves, they very rarely need our help. The bird will be fine in the storm.

Question : How do I make a bottled nest box?
Answer : Just take a milk bottle (not glass) and make an opening in the body of the box. Then take a rope and make holes at the top and tie the rope to the holes. Make sure you make it tight.

Question : Can I hatch the eggs myself?
Answer : If it is a wild bird egg do not touch it. In the USA it is illegal to take care of wild birds.

Question : Can I look at the eggs when they have been laid?
Answer : You can take a peek, as long as the mother bird is not nearby. Make sure you don't touch the eggs, as you will leave a scent behind that the mother bird can detect.

Question : Are most bird nests made of straw, twigs, and mud?
Answer : Yes, that is what a typical bird nest is made of.

Question : What can I do about wild animals that eat the eggs?
Answer : It depends on the animal. For squirrels, you can't really do anything, but for other birds you can find a better spot to put the nesting box. You shouldn't worry too much, because the mother bird will protect it's young with her life.

Question : Can I make a bird nest from leftover grass from a lawn mower?
Answer : Lawn clippings are probably too short to make a decent nest. Maybe if you collect it and dry it out you can use a few pieces to line the nest.

Tips.

For a quick and easy nest, shred or cut a paper bag into thin strips. Line a bowl with a paper towel, arrange the strips over them, then glue the paper bag strips together and let dry into a nest shape.

It’s fine to take a look at the eggs, but be careful, because smart animals like coyotes can follow you to the nest. If you have no predators in the area, taking a look at the eggs will leave a scent, but birds don’t have a sense of smell.

Warnings.

If a wild bird moves in to your nest, don't disturb it or the surrounding area. Watch the nest from somewhere the bird can't see you, or you may scare the bird away or attract predators to the nest.

Januari 20, 2020

how to make a animal ballon swan

How to Make a Animal Ballon Swan.

Learn how to make balloon animals and share your skill at a festival or party. People love making a special request and seeing a colorful balloon animal come to life. Get familiar with the twisting techniques that form the foundation for every balloon animal, then put your knowledge to use by making a balloon dog, monkey, and swan.

Learning the Fundamental Twists.

1. Make a basic twist. Inflate a balloon and tie it off at the end. Grasp it near the tie in your non-dominant hand. Use your dominant hand to twist the balloon a few times so that you create a separate balloon segment. In order to keep the balloon from untwisting, hold the two segments with one hand.

Use #260 balloons, which are long balloons designed for the purpose of being made into balloon animals. These are available at party stores and costume stores. Water balloons and party balloons can't be twisted into animal shapes.

You can inflate the balloons using your lungs, but it's far easier to use a small hand pump. These are available at toy stores and party stores that sell balloon supplies.

You should be able to grasp the balloon firmly without it popping. Keep your fingernails and jewelry away from the surface of the balloon so they don't catch on the rubber and pop it. If the balloon seems to pop at the slightest touch, try using a higher-quality brand. Less expensive balloon brands use less rubber in their balloons, and the thinner surface area is much easier to pop.

2. Make a lock twist. Inflate a balloon, tie it off and make two basic twists close together, so that the balloon has a total of four segments. Hold all four segments in the same hand to keep them from coming untwisted. Use your other hand to grasp the two middle segments and gently hold them apart from the two end segments. Twist the two middle segments together three times, then hold up the balloon. The segments are now locked in place.

The lock twist is used to hold the balloon sculpture together, since without it the balloon comes untwisted.

The lock twist is also used to make small balloon animal ears and other animal features.

3. Make a fold twist. Inflate a balloon, tie it off and make one basic twist near the end. Holding the twist in place with one hand, use your other hand to fold the top of the balloon down. Grasp the twist and the top of the balloon and twist them together three times so that you form a loop. The balloon now has three segments: two end segments and one loop segment.

The fold twist functions like a lock twist, in that it prevents the balloon from becoming untwisted.

The fold twist is often used to create ears, noses, and other animal features.

Steps Making a Balloon Swan.

1. Inflate a balloon and leave a 4-inch tail. White or black balloons both make striking swan sculptures.

2. Fold the balloon. Create a paperclip shape with the balloon; the knotted end should be at the center of the paperclip, and the tail end should jut out from the end of the paperclip. Another way to approach this shape is to create a circle with overlapping ends, then flatten it.

3. Make a basic twist. Grasp the folded balloon in the middle so that you're holding three parts: the top of the paperclip, the bottom of the paperclip and the knot in the center. Twist the three parts together, making sure you catch the knot in the twist. Hold the twist to make sure it doesn't come undone. You now have two loops with a long neck jutting out from the center twist.

4. Tuck one loop into the other. Use your free hand to close one of the loops and push it up through the other one. This creates the body of the swan, with the tucked-in loop resembling folded wings and the outer loop resembling the swan's underside. Tucking in the loop also keeps the structure from coming undone.

5. Make the head. Grasp the neck a few inches from the tail and use your hand to move some of the air into the uninflated tail part. This will cause the top of the neck to curve into the shape of the head. The remaining uninflated tail forms the swan's beak.

FAQ.

Q : How do I tie a balloon?

A : Wrap it around your two fingers first, and then swoop it around in between your two fingers, then pull your fingers out and you will have a knot.

Q : How do I make a balloon ring?

A : Just tie the two ends of a long balloon together and put it around your finger. If it's too big, use a smaller balloon.

Q : How do I make a balloon sword?

A : Inflate the balloon so there is no tail and straighten the last portion of the balloon. Make a handle towards the knot using a basic twist to help lock it. Use the dog ear/leg pattern twice to make the hand guard. Maneuver the two "ears" gently as so they are opposite from each other and face perpendicular from the handle. Keep the hand guards small and the handle just big enough for your hand to fit on, otherwise you will end up with something closer to a knife.

Q : How do I make a balloon owlet?

A : Make the balloon dog, but leave it round and glue a felt or paper beak on it.

Q : How can I make a balloon caterpillar?

A : Choose a long, sausage-shaped balloon and inflate it. Make antennae by getting another balloon, twisting it into a V-shape and put it in place at the head end. Also, draw the eyes and mouth with a marker.

Tips.

Carry balloons in your pocket to school, wedding receptions, any place where children may roam.

Put glitter inside the balloons so when they pop there will be a glitter explosion that people will like.

Carry a permanent marker and make a smiley face on your animal.

If balloon pops, laugh, make a joke about "blowing up" some balloons for fun and start over. Children will back up a step but they won't leave.

If it pops, pretend that it was part of the entertainment; play it cool.

Use an inexpensive balloon pump from a toy store. Some people can inflate a #260 by mouth, but not many. Hand pumps are more sanitary.

Experiment with other sizes and shapes of balloons to make apples and bumblebees.

Every child in the room will want one. Seriously. Do not send children home crying if it can be avoided.

Use new balloons rather than stored ones. Older balloons are more likely to pop when you are inflating or twisting.

It helps to inflate the entire balloon until air is spread throughout, then to deflate it slightly, leaving about 3 inches (7.6 cm) at the end as mentioned in step 3.

Warnings.

Balloons are not for little children due to danger of choking.

Things You'll Need : Uninflated #260 balloons, Balloon pump.

Desember 27, 2019

how to remove paint from wood

How to Remove Paint from Wood.

There are multiple ways to remove paint from wood. If you're working with small splatters, you can usually wipe them away without much hassle. For larger paint stripping projects, you will need to use heat, force, or chemical removers. Here's what you should know about each method.





Removing Paint Marks.



Remove fresh latex paint with water A spot of latex paint can usually be removed by wiping it up with a soft, water-soaked rag.

Soak a soft, clean cloth rag in warm water.

Wring out some of the excess water to prevent the rag from dripping over unaffected areas. Scrape the paint away

Wipe away the spot of paint. You may need to rinse and re-soak the rag several times to get all of the paint up.

Wipe the wood dry with a separate, dry rag.



Use denatured alcohol if the water does not work. If you have a latex paint splatter on your wood that you cannot wipe away with plain water, wipe it away with denatured alcohol, instead.

Apply enough alcohol to a clean rag to dampen it without making it dripping wet.

Pass the alcohol-soaked rag over the paint spot to remove it. Rinse, resoak, and repeat as needed.

Dry the spot with a clean, dry rag when finished.



Remove fresh oil-based paint with mineral spirits. Oil-based paint will continue clinging to the wood if you use plain water, so wipe it away with a soft rag dabbed in mineral spirits.

Dip a soft, clean rag into a small dish of mineral spirits. Instead of soaking the entire rag, only soak the area you plan on bringing into contact with the paint splatter.

Wipe up the paint by passing the mineral spirit over the splatter. Rinse and resoak as needed until all the paint has been removed.

Dry the area with a separate dry rag.



Remove dried paint with boiled linseed oil. Dry spots of paint can be softened by soaking and rubbing them away with boiled linseed oil.

Soak a clean rag in boiled linseed oil.

Press the linseed oil rag against the paint spot and hold in place for 30 to 60 seconds. This permits the oil to soak into the paint.

Wipe away the softened paint with your linseed oil soaked rag.

Dry the area with a separate dry rag.



Use a putty knife, if necessary, for stubborn dried spots. If you cannot wipe the paint away even after softening it with boiled linseed oil, carefully use a putty knife to scrape beneath the splatter and lift it off the wood.



Strip residue with a linseed oil paste. Any dried paint residue that remains can be removed by rubbing it with a paste made of boiled linseed oil and rottenstone.

Combine enough boiled linseed oil and rottenstone in a small disposable dish to form a thick paste. Use a disposable wooden chopstick to stir the ingredients together.

Scoop some of the paste onto a clean rag and rub the paste into the wood along the grain.

Wipe away the grain using another clean rag.











Removing Paint with Heat.



Hold a heat gun near the surface of the wood. Position the heat gun 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) above the painted wooden surface after you switch the heat gun on.

Use an electric heat gun or electric paint remover. A blowtorch will also provide the necessary amount of heat, but blowtorches come with a greater risk of scorching or setting the wood on fire, so they are not recommended.

Wear protective gloves and goggles as you work with the heat gun.

Do not let the heat gun come into contact with the wood or come too close to the wood. Doing so may result in scorch marks or fire.



Slowly move the heat gun over the surface. Pass the heat gun over the surface of the section of wood you are currently working on. Continue passing it side-to-side and up-and-down without ceasing.

Do not let the heat gun linger in one spot for a prolonged period. Doing so will cause the wood to burn and potentially catch on fire.



Scrape the paint up as it wrinkles. Once the paint begins to bubble and wrinkle, immediately scrape the paint up with a broad paint scraper.

If possible, continue to heat the paint with the heat gun in one hand as you scrape up bubbling paint with your other hand. If you have difficulty balancing both tasks, though, switch the heat gun off temporarily and scrape up any heated paint immediately.



Stay calm if a fire starts. Even though it is possible for the wood to catch fire, these fires are usually small at the start and can be put out safely as long as you think clearly.

A small flame can usually be put out by smothering it with the flat side of your paint scraper.

Keep a bucket of water nearby as you work. If a fire starts to catch and cannot be smothered out, quickly soak it with the water.











Removing Paint with Force.



Protect yourself. Wear safety goggles and a face mask to protect yourself from paint and wood dust as you sand, regardless of the sanding method you use.



Sand the paint off by hand when possible. When removing paint from a crack or crevice or stripping it from a small, delicate wooden object, you should sand the paint off by hand.

Mechanical sanders use considerable force and can damage delicate pieces. Moreover, they can be difficult to use on small, confined spaces.

Use coarse, open-coat sandpaper since other types may clog with paint and wood dust too quickly.

Sand with the grain of the wood instead of against it.

Decrease to a medium grit paper once you can see the grain of the wood peeking through the paint.

Decrease to a fine grit when small bits of paint are all that remain.



Switch to a mechanical sander for larger jobs. For larger areas of painted wood, including large pieces of wood furniture, large wooden chests, or wood trim, rely on a mechanical sander to save time.

Choose between a mechanical hand sander and a power sander. A hand sander will be a little gentler and makes a good option if you want to preserve more of the wood beneath the paint. A power sander will finish the job faster, though, making it a good choice for especially large projects.

Belt, disk, and drum sanders are all good options worth considering when picking a power sander.

Use coarse, open-coat sandpaper on your mechanical sander since less coarse options tend to clog up with paint and wood dust too easily.

Always sand with the grain of the wood rather than against it to minimize the amount of damage to the wood.

Switch to a fine grain sandpaper, if desired, once the majority of the paint has been sanded off and only a few small specks remain.













Removing Paint with Chemical Paint Strippers.



Choose the right type of paint stripper. Look for a paint stripper labeled for use with the type of paint you want to remove. Also choose between a liquid or paste paint stripper.

Liquid chemicals are often applied in spray form and are usually used to clean coatings or a couple of layers.

Paste chemicals are brushed on and are used to strip many layers of paint. If you need to remove 10 layers or more, choose a paste.

Read the instructions thoroughly before use. While the application procedure is the same for most chemical paint strippers, the exact details may vary. Always follow the instructions that come with the paint stripper.



Pour a small amount of paint stripper in a wide-mouth metal can. Pouring a small amount in a small can makes it easier to use the paint remover.

If possible, use a can with a plastic resealable lid.



Brush the paint stripper on with a paint brush. Use a broad flat paintbrush to apply the chemical thickly and evenly over the surface of the painted wood.

Brush the paint stripper on in one direction.

Do not brush over areas that have already been covered by paint stripper.



Alternatively, spray the paint stripper on. If using an aerosol paint stripper, point the nozzle of the bottle roughly 4 inches (10 cm) away from the surface of the painted wood and apply the chemical in an even, thick layer.

The chemical will create a foaming, clinging layer.



Let sit for as long as directed. Usually, the paint remover should be left on the surface for 20 to 30 minutes, but exact times may vary.

Keep the windows and doors of the room open to prevent potentially harmful fumes from building up as the chemical sits.



Test the paint. Rub the blade of a paint scraper over the surface in a circular motion. If the scraper cuts into the paint, the chemical has worked correctly.

Make sure that the scraper you use is chemical-resistant.



Scrape the paint off with a metal scraper. Glide the paint scraper beneath the softened paint to peel it away.

Remove as much as possible with the first few passes.

Work in one direction.



Touch up the surface with soaked steel wool. If some paint still remains, soak medium-grade steel wool in a small amount of paint remover and scrub those spots until they lift up.

Old rags or abrasive scouring pads will also work.



Things You'll Need.

Clean rags.

Water.

Denatured alcohol.

Mineral spirits.

Linseed oil.

Rottenstone.

Heat gun.

Broad paint scraper.

Safety goggles.

Face mask.

Safety gloves.

Sandpaper.

Mechanical sander.

Chemical paint stripper.

November 09, 2019

how to decorate plastic containers

How to Decorate Plastic Containers.

From pill boxes to room organizers, plastic containers are an essential part of everyday life. Though they do their job well, these containers are generally designed with simplicity in mind, meaning there’s plenty of room to decorate. Using simple materials like paper, stickers, paint, and ribbon, you can turn any plastic container into something truly fabulous.







Method 1 Covering with Patterns and Colors.



Use patterned cloth to cover the container. Find a cloth pattern that matches your style and cut out enough to cover the container. Use a paintbrush to apply a layer of mod podge to both the back of the cloth and the plastic, then press your cloth into it. As it sets, apply another layer of mod podge over the top and let it dry.

Try to tie the patterned cloth into the room itself, such as using polka-dotted fabric in a room with polka-dotted wallpaper or zebra-striped cloth in a room with black and white furniture.



Use patterned paper to line the container. Patterned paper works great for containers that are translucent. Find a pattern you like and cut out enough to line the plastic. Smooth out the paper and apply a layer of mod podge to both it and the inside of the container. Stick it to the plastic and apply another coat on top, making sure the paper remains smooth.

Try to use colors that match the container’s environment, like bright pastels for a baby room or light, muted colors for a kitchen.



Use paint to add color to your container. Wash your container with dish soap and warm water. When dry, gently sand the surface with 220 to 300-grit sandpaper, then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. Use painter’s tape to cover areas you don’t want to paint, then apply a coat of primer to the container. Once it has dried, you will be able to paint the plastic with spray, acrylic, or enamel paint.

Use stencils to paint or spray specific designs onto your container, such as zig-zags or checkerboards.



Use patterned duct tape as a simple decoration. Duct tape is an incredibly versatile tool, and since it comes in many different colors and patterns, it provides a quick solution for spicing up drab plastic. Find a pattern of duct tape you like and simply press it onto the container. For small and portable containers, a small amount of duct tape will add personality without bulk.







Method 2 Using Creative Labels.



Cut out labels to create a simple organizing system. Sometimes, the best way to decorate a container is to simply label it, especially if you need to use it in a professional environment. Cut a piece of single-colored construction paper into a thin strip, then write a label on it in clear, bold letters. Fix the label to your container using tape or glue.

To make your labels pop, glue them to a slightly larger piece of colored paper before putting them on the container.



Add lettering to create labels and messages. For larger containers, craft lettering may be a good option. If your letters come with adhesive backs, apply them as is. If they don’t, use a small amount of glue to keep them in place. Along with names and standard labels, letters can be used to write:

A motivational message for containers holding school supplies.

A favorite quote or book passage for a media box.

A joke label, like the word ‘Zoo’ for a container filled with stuffed animals.



Print labels from a computer. Creating labels on a computer allows you to add anything from photos and graphics to small and instructional text. Programs like Word and Pages can create simple labels with borders, while more advanced programs like Adobe InDesign may be appropriate for specialized labels. When you have a design made, print it on thick paper, cut it out, and glue or tape it to your container.



Label your container with objects from inside it. If your container will be holding craft items, toys, or other small, non-perishable objects, use them to create a unique label. Instead of writing “LEGOs” on a plastic box, glue a couple bricks to the front. Instead of writing “Office Supplies,” glue a binder clip or marker.









Method 3 Accessorizing.



Add ribbon to your container. Ribbon and similar trims can give your container a more elegant feel. They can be applied using mod podge, hot glue, or tape, and some ribbon can simply be tied around the plastic. Look for ribbon designs that match the contents of the box, such as silver ribbon for keepsakes or colorful ribbon for candy.



Add stickers to your container. Stickers are a great, fast way to cover a plastic container. Simple stickers, like those found in dollar stores and craft books, are perfect and come in a variety of styles. Avoid bubble and 3D stickers if you plan on storing your container in tight spaces.

If your container holds a collection, put down a new sticker every time it grows.



Use hot glue to create glitter designs. When handled right, hot glue can be a fun alternative to traditional paint. Use a small marker to draw a design on your container. With a hot glue gun, carefully trace over it. Before the glue sets, pour glitter over it and let the whole thing dry. Shake off excess glitter and enjoy the shiny, fun design.

This method can also be used to label your container. Simply spell out a word, pour glitter on it, and let it set.



Use ink stamps to press patterns into the plastic. To give your container an old school feel, use ink stamps to create unique patterns and designs. Make sure to press your stamp firmly onto the container, that way the ink sets evenly. Stamps are available at craft stores like Hobby Lobby and Michael’s, and specialty or custom stamps can be ordered online.

Common stamp designs include hearts, religious symbols, fruits, and simple animals. Try to find one that matches the container’s environment.



Add craft jewels, flowers, and other items. Craft jewels, fake flowers, and other small objects are an easy way to add some fabulous flair to your container. Use hot glue or a bedazzling gun to apply the objects to the plastic. If you don’t have enough to make a uniform pattern, try arranging them in small shapes or designs, such as a heart or smiley face.



Create a collage on the container. If your container will be holding something particularly special, use its surface for a collage. This will make your container beautiful while clearly showing what it contains. Cut out portions of photos, magazines, newspapers, and similar printed materials. Using either hot glue or mod podge, paste individual items to the box, making sure they are flat and smooth. Some potential arrangements include.

Photos of your family or best friends, especially if your container is a keepsake box.

Pictures of book covers, movie posters, or album artwork, especially if your container is a media box.

Pictures of your favorite celebrities and characters.

November 18, 2019

how to easy build a ballista

How to Build a Ballista.

If you like medieval weaponry capable of flinging arrows through the air, try building your own ballista. A ballista consists of a frame, a launch ramp with a slide, and a tensioned string. You can build all of these components with popsicle sticks, thread, and other basic supplies. Add a launch pin to create a small ballista that enables you fire bolts with a pull of a string.







Part 1 Assembling the Frame.



Drill holes through a pair of 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. Measure 1 in (2.5 cm) from the ends and mark the spots with a pencil. Before working on the sticks, lay down a piece of cardboard to protect your work surface from damage. Then, use a drill bit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter to create the holes.

The simplest way to create a ballista is with inexpensive popsicle sticks, available online, at craft supply store, and other areas.

If you wish to make a larger ballista, trying using larger pieces of wood or foam in place of the popsicle sticks.



Poke a second, smaller hole next to each of the bigger ones. Measure about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) along the stick’s length from one of the existing holes. Use a steel probe 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in diameter or a similar sharp tool to poke all the way through the wood. Position the hole so it’s slightly lower, closer to the edge of the stick, than the larger hole. Create a matching hole on the opposite end of the first stick and create corresponding holes on the second stick.

Each popsicle stick has 4 holes when you’re finished, a pair of holes on either end. The bigger holes are used to secure the ballista frame together, while the smaller holes are for the launcher.

To test the smaller holes, try squeezing a wood cocktail skewer through them. Get skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Widen the holes as needed to fit the skewers.



Cut a pair of wood blocks to 1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm). The easiest way to do this is to purchase wood crafting blocks. If you can’t find the exact size you need, cut the blocks to size with a crafting knife or another tool. Get blocks that are about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. Scrape away the excess wood until both blocks are the same size.

Shop online or visit a craft store to see what kind of wood blocks are available. You can use scrap wood if you wish, but crafting blocks are much smoother and easier to work with.

Be careful when using a crafting knife. The blocks are small, so it’s easy to slip while handling the blade. Work slowly to avoid potential accidents.

Image titled Build a Ballista Step 4

4

Glue the blocks to the ends of the popsicle sticks. Heat up a hot glue gun loaded with a fresh stick of white glue. Spread a layer of glue over the ends of the 1 of the sticks, then lay the blocks on top of that. Align the longer ends of each block with the edges of the popsicle stick. Spread another layer of glue on top of the wood blocks to secure the second popsicle stick.

Make sure you align the holes in the popsicle sticks before gluing them in place. The holes need to be positioned evenly over one another in order for the ballista launch its arrows later.







Part 2 Building and Attaching the Launch Ramp.



Cut about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) off the end of another popsicle stick. Trim this new stick to size by measuring and slicing it apart with your craft knife. Another safe way to do this is by snapping the end off with scissors or wire cutters. Trim any stray wood fibers off the cut end so it looks smooth and even.

Cutting popsicle sticks can be tricky since they are pretty fragile. Work slowly, gradually deepening the cut you make. Bend the popsicle stick back and forth along the groove you cut to prevent it from splintering.

If you have experience with wood cutting, try using a fine saw blade like a band saw. Always wear earmuffs, eye goggles, and a dust mask while operating a saw.



Trim a pair of cocktail skewers to 5 1⁄2 in (14 cm) in length. Get some wood skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Measure and mark the skewers as needed with a ruler and pencil. Then, cut the skewers evenly on both ends to trim off the sharp points. The skewers need to be the same length as the popsicle stick you cut, so use it for comparison.

Wood skewers are available online in addition to some craft stores, general stores, and restaurant supply stores.

Cut the skewers by using a craft knife or by snapping the ends off with wire cutters.



Glue the skewers to the top of the popsicle stick. Place the skewers on the long edges of the popsicle stick you cut. Lay down a bead of glue from a hot glue gun to secure the skewers in place. Trim the ends of the skewers as needed to smooth them out and make them even with the ends of the stick.

Now you have a basic launch ramp. The skewers form a groove for you to load the ballista’s ammunition.



Secure the ramp to the center of the frame you built. Get your popsicle stick frame with the holes drilled in it. Turn the ramp over and spread some hot glue on the end of it. Then, secure it over the bottom popsicle stick in the frame. Put it as close to the center of the frame as possible, aligning the end of the ramp with the back edge of the frame.

Hot glue dries relatively quickly, so you don’t need to worry too much about the frame and ramp components coming apart. Set the pieces aside as needed for 10 to 20 minutes to give the glue a chance to solidify. It takes about 24 hours to fully cure.







Part 3 Creating the Launcher Mechanism.



Break a 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle stick into halves. Divide the stick evenly into halves about 2 1⁄4 in (5.7 cm) long. These sticks are smaller than the frame pieces and are part of the ballista’s launching system. Use a craft knife or wire cutters to split the stick across its width and then smooth out the cut end.

Purchase a separate bag of smaller popsicle sticks online or at a craft store. Alternatively, cut smaller pieces of wood boards or foam if you’re making the ballista with those materials.



Poke a hole 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each stick. Use a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-thick steel probe or a similar tool sold at craft stores. Make a single hole near the rounded end, leaving the cut end alone. Pierce all the way through the wood.



Pull pieces of string through the larger holes in the frame. Getting the string through the holes is tricky, so have a cocktail skewer nearby to push it through. Slide both ends of a string 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter through the top hole, then through the respective hole in the bottom frame piece. Leave the string long enough to form small loops above and below the ballista frame.

Try using twine from a craft store for a strong material that isn’t likely to break when you’re having fun launching makeshift arrows.



Tie small skewers to the frame using the string loops. Cut a couple of wood skewers down to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length. Start with the top loop by placing a skewer inside of it and pulling the string tight. Then, tie the loose ends of the string into a knot with another skewer underneath it.

Lay the skewers flat against the frame pieces. Orient them so they’re perpendicular to the frame pieces. Then, tie the knots as tight as you can to hold the skewers in place.



Place the small popsicle sticks between the strings and tighten them. The popsicle sticks you cut earlier fit between the frame pieces. Slide about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of the cut ends of the sticks between the ropes. Then, twist the bottom skewers clockwise to tighten the string as much as possible.

When the small sticks are positioned correctly, you can move them back and forth without them sliding out of place. This is necessary for moving the ballista’s launcher to let arrows fly a long way.



Slide another skewer into each of the inner holes on the frame. Cut 2 more skewers to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length to fit those holes. Make them look nice and even like the other skewers before fitting them through the frame. Make sure the skewers go all the way through the respective holes on the top and bottom frame pieces.

Protect the strings by tying the ends to the bottoms of these skewers, if possible. If you do this, the skewers maintain the string’s tension, leading to much more impressive launches!



Tie a length of string between the launcher’s stick arms. Set the ballista so the back end is in front of you. Thread the 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string into the holes in the small popsicle sticks hanging from the ballista frame. Knot both ends of the string to secure it, then trim off the excess length.

The exact length of string you need to form the launcher depends on the material you used. Try threading the string through both holes before cutting it from the spool. Always cut it longer than you need so you can knot it tightly.







Part 4 Making the Slide and Supports.



Glue a block underneath the back end of the launch ramp. Get another 1.5 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood block. The block needs to be approximately the same width as the ramp in order to keep the ballista stable while you’re firing it. Set the ramp in the glue, aligning its back edge with the back end of the block.

Installing the block makes the ballista ramp slanted so it launches arrows higher into the air.



Cut grooves in a small block to create the ballista’s slider. Cut the grooves into a small piece of wood about 1.5 × 1 × 1⁄2 in (3.8 × 2.5 × 1.3 cm) in size. The launcher needs separate grooves in the front and back, both as thick as the string you used when tying the launcher arms together. Make the 2 grooves about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from either end. Use a crafting knife to scrape away the wood, making the grooves circular and about half as deep as the block.

Try making the slider out of a wood peg bought online or a craft store. If you use scrap wood, make sure it is solid and smooth so you can slide it along the ramp.



Create a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood cap to fit on top of the slider. Simply cut a smaller popsicle stick to the exact length and width as the slider. Cut the cap into a rectangle with no rounded edges. When you’re ready to install it, put the launcher string into the slider’s front groove. Spread some hot glue, then press the cap onto the top of the slider.

Test the cap out by putting it on the slider before you add the glue. Check that it’s big enough to cover the slider and pin the string in place.



Drill 45-degree angle holes in a block of wood. This block needs to be about 2 × 1 1⁄2 × 1⁄2 in (5.1 × 3.8 × 1.3 cm) longer than the one on the back end of the ballista. Position the holes about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the smaller sides of the block. Use a drill bit approximately 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide to drill diagonally towards the center of the block.

Drill all the way through the other side of the block. Keep the holes as even as possible to build a stable base for the ballista frame.



Fit wood dowels into the holes on the block. Use a pair of 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-thick dowels cut to about 4 in (10 cm) long. Slice them using a craft knife, wire cutters, or a saw if you have one. Then, put some hot glue on the ends of the dowels and push them as far into the holes as possible.

Look online or at a local craft supply store for the perfect dowels for your project.



Glue the block to the front side of the frame to stand the ballista up. Flip the block over and spread a thick bead of glue across its length. Lift up the front end of the ballista to stick the block to the bottom of the frame. After pressing the pieces firmly together, consider letting the glue dry for about 10 minutes.

If the block is wider than the frame, you could try whittling it down with a carving knife or craft knife. As long as your base is stable, doing this isn’t necessary, but it can make the ballista look a little neater.







Part 5 Completing the Firing Mechanism.



Glue long spacer pieces to the sides of the back block. Cut the spacer pieces so they are about 4 in × 1.5 in (10.2 cm × 3.8 cm) in size. Spread more hot glue, then press them against the block supporting the back end of the ramp. These parts are there to support the rest of the parts you need to add, so they don’t need to be pretty and can be longer than the block itself.

Make sure the spacer pieces stick out from underneath the ramp a little bit. The pieces that attach to them need to extend over the ramp or else you won’t be able to fire the ballista.



Cut 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) off the ends of a large popsicle stick. Measure and mark the length you need to cut on one of the 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. You need 2 of these pieces, so cut off both ends of the stick. Leave the rounded ends of the stick intact.

Cut the stick carefully with a craft knife, wire cutters, or saw. Work slowly to avoid splintering the wood and smooth out the edges as needed.



Make a hole about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each piece. Create the holes by poking a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe or a similar sharp tool through the wood. Keep the holes along the center part of the wood. Make them as even as possible to ensure the ballista parts line up appropriately when you install them.



Glue the popsicle ends to the side pieces on the block. The sticks need to be near the tail end of the block. Also, position the sticks about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) up from the bottom edge of the block. Spread glue over the wood and press them onto the block to hold them in place.

Make sure the ends of the sticks extend over the ramp. The holes need to be about level with the top edge of the slider in order to string the launch rope through it.



Bend a metal rod to fit through the holes in the wood. Get a metal rod about 4 in (10 cm) long and about 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in width to fit through the holes. Pull the launcher piece back and thread the rod through its second groove and the holes in the sticks. Then, use pliers to bend one end of the rod back over itself. The rod forms a launch pin that stays in place until you're ready to use it.

Test the pin by attempting to move it. If it feels loose, bend the end back on itself more to keep the pin in place. Leave the other end of the pin alone so it can slide out of the hole.



Tie a string to the end of the launch pin. Cut some 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string to complete the launching mechanism. Try trimming it to about 3 to 4 in (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in length. Knot the string a few times to the bent end of the launch pin to quickly pull it out when you wish to fire the ballista.

Keep the string at a comfortable length. If it is too long or short, you may have a hard time pulling out the pin in a quick, fluid motion.



Cut cocktail skewers to about 5 in (13 cm) for ammunition. Trim the pointed ends off of as many skewers as you wish to use. When you’re ready to use the ballista, put a single arrow on the chute after pulling the slide back. Yank the string to pull the metal pin out, causing the slide to spring forward, sending the arrow through the air.

Always cut the points off of the skewers to avoid accidents. Also, never shoot the arrows at others. They can hurt, especially from bigger launchers.







Tips.

Ballista arrows are reusable. Collect the arrows after you fire them to ensure you have a steady supply of ammunition.

Small ballista designs can be blown up to create big rigs capable of throwing arrows long distances. Many big ballistas use wood planks and thick rope like the kind available at hardware stores.



Warnings.

Firing a ballista can be dangerous. To be safe, clear an area outdoors and fire it when no one else is around.

If you choose to use a saw to cut components, follow proper safety procedures to avoid injuries. Always wear earmuffs, goggles, and a dust mask.



Things You’ll Need.

Ruler, Craft knife, Wire cutters or scissors.

6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks, 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle sticks.

1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood blocks, 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-diameter wood skewers, 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-diameter wood dowels.

1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit, Drill.

1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe, Hot glue stick, Hot glue gun.

7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string, 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-diameter metal rod.

November 20, 2019