easy kid craft

easy kid craft

One of the #1 things that people often say to me is, “I would love to make creative projects with my kids, but I’m just not crafty. I don’t even know where to start!” My reply is always, “Trust me, you do NOT need to consider yourself ‘crafty’ to start getting creative with your children!”  There are hundreds upon hundreds of craft projects that you can make with your children that require NO special skills or tools and that take less than half an hour of your time. In fact, most of these 50+ quick and easy kids craft project ideas that I’ve rounded up here actually take less than FIFTEEN minutes to make!



WHY CRAFT WITH YOUR KIDS?

A recent study by Dr. Richard Rende revealed that creative interaction between parents and young children engaging in activities like arts and crafts not only provides immediate and lasting cognitive benefits but also creates a unique bonding experience, which creates lifelong memories. Taking time to be creative with your children is a topic that I am incredibly passionate about. I know firsthand the benefits that children reap when they are exposed to arts and crafts activities, and in an age where arts are in a decline in the school systems, it is even more important than ever for parents to take the initiative to introduce art activities to their children.



Other key findings of Dr. Rende’s study showed that:



• Arts and crafts engage multiple brain areas simultaneously and

improve bilateral coordination between the left and right sides of

the brain, leading to immediate and future cognitive development.



• Activities like arts and crafts accelerate the development of muscles

in the hands and fingers, improving fine motor skills that are

essential for school success in the earliest formal years.



• Face-to-face interaction in the early years is critical for optimal

social development.



• Arts and crafts promote rich social interactions that help develop

language skills and social cognitive abilities like understanding

emotions.



• Creative activities are a great way to bond with children and create

lasting memories.



Nearly 90% of the parents surveyed for the study said that they would like to spend more time creating arts and crafts with their children, but they didn’t know where to start or how to carve out the time needed.



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Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





craft handmade, 5 minute craft, craft game, craft paper, craft meaning, craft apk, craft ideas, craft indonesia, diy craft paper, diy craft tutorial, diy craft youtube, diy craft indonesia, diy craft wood, diy craft room, diy crafts to sell, diy creative

November 01, 2019

how to organize craft supplies

How to Organize Craft Supplies.

If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.







Steps.



1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.

If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.

Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.



2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.

Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.

Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.

Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.



3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.

Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.

Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,



4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.

Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.

If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.

Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.



5. Keep on sorting.

Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.

Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.



6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.

Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.

For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.



7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.



8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.



9. Finished.





Tips.

Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.

Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.

Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.

Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.

Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.

Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.

Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.

Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.

Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.



Things You'll Need.

Craft supplies.

Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.

Paper to label the containers.

November 21, 2019

20 common embroidery mistakes

20 common embroidery mistakes

Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.



Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.



Not Reading the Instructions

Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.



Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric

Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.



Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle

Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.



Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle

Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.



Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots

Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with ​a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.



Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness

Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.



Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread

Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.



Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen

It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.



Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils

Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.



Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted

When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.



Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame

Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.



Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction

Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).



Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing

Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.



Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting

Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.



Getting Your Project Dirty

Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.



Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type​​

If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.



Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching

You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.



Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly

Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.



Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight​​

Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.



Rushing to Fix a Mistake

If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.



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Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





craft handmade, 5 minute craft, craft game, craft paper, craft meaning, craft apk, craft ideas, craft indonesia, diy craft paper, diy craft tutorial, diy craft youtube, diy craft indonesia, diy craft wood, diy craft room, diy crafts to sell, diy creative

November 01, 2019

how to organize a craft room

How to Organize a Craft Room.

A craft room is a place where you want to let your creative energies take over. Organizing your craft room will take some work but the end result is worth the effort. You will want to start by gathering and sorting all of your available craft supplies. Then, find places to store these items where they will be easy to grab and use in the midst of a project. Use organizing as an opportunity to display those items that inspire you as well.

Method 1 Sorting Your Craft Supplies.

1. Gather all of your craft items. Grab a basket and walk throughout your living space grabbing any and all craft supplies and tools. Carry them into your designated craft room and place everything in the middle of the floor. Once you think that you’ve gotten it all, go back through one more time just to be certain. Make sure to open all of your drawers and cabinets, as craft supplies can often ‘hide.’

Likewise, go through your craft room and identify any objects or items that do not belong there and move them out. They may need to go in a ‘staging area’ in another room, so that you can concentrate your energy on your craft area.

2. Sort your supplies out according to item type. Look over your supply pile and begin to build smaller piles based upon different categories of supplies. For example, put all of your wrapping paper together. All fabrics should go together initially. After these first piles are finished, you can go back through them and narrow them even further according to size and color. For example, put all of the red wrapping paper together.

At this point your room may be in controlled chaos, so be careful walking around or you may slip on one of your piles. For that reason, try to keep other people out of the room as well, at least during this stage.

To keep you from feeling overwhelmed, bring an egg timer into the room and set it for 15-minutes. When the timer goes off, take a 5-minute break. Then, re-set the timer and start again. This will keep you motivated to work at a steady pace without burning out.

3. Decide what to donate. As you sort, identify items that are worth donating. Perhaps you have multiples of some items or maybe leftover supplies from projects that you’ve completed and moved on from. Make sure that whatever you donate is safe for another user. For example, don’t donate rusty scissors or any cracked glass items.

Various charity organizations, schools, and libraries will gladly accept donations of craft supplies as long as they are in good condition. This is a great opportunity to share your interest in crafting with other people.

Depending on the amount of items that you have, some charities will actually come to your house and pick them up for you. This may be a good opportunity to do organize other areas of your home as well.

4. Create a trash pile and dispose of it. As you sort, identify items that need to be thrown away. This could be items that you no longer find useful, but that aren’t suitable for donation due to condition or quantity. You should also trash any supplies that are no good anymore, such as dried out glue or frayed ribbons. Ask yourself if you’ve used the item in the past year and if you haven’t odds are it needs to be thrown away or donated.

Take the trash out after you’ve finished sorting the main pile. If you wait you are likely to leave it there and it will become an eyesore and will slow your organizing progress.

5. Repeat this process every few weeks. As life goes on, many of your supplies will likely wander out of your craft space once more. To keep your area tidy and useful for you, go through a sorting and cleaning process fairly often, especially after completing a major project.

Also, devote at least ten minutes after you finish working in your craft room for picking up and storing items in their new proper places. Devoting even this small amount of time can make a major difference in the long-term appearance of your craft room.

Method 2 Implementing a Storage System.

1. Store similar items together. You’ll want to keep your supplies together in their sorted piles as you place them in their designated storage spots and containers. Extra-small items will need to be placed in extra-small containers and will probably be grouped together for storage and then usage.

Keep an eye out for items that may appear similar but that have slightly different functions. These situations may require that you divide up your storage system even further. For example, you’ll want to divide your fabric scissors from your paper scissors.

2. Use plastic bins. These are the number one storage option when organizing a craft room. They come in a wide variety of sizes and are easy to stack. They also fit well within a cube shelf. You can see inside the clear bins, making it easy to find an item that you are looking for.

Depending on how you arrange your bins, you will want to purchase ones that open on the top or via a front panel. Look for lids that snap on tightly to avoid spilling your supplies.

Bins are also especially useful when working with messy items such as paints. In addition, they contain fumes from paints as well.

Make sure to purchase extra bins, and to leave space in the ones that you currently use, for new supplies that you may purchase.

3. Arrange items by color. Store and display your craft supplies according to the color wheel. This will create a quick way for you to find an item that you need for a particular project. It will also lead to beautiful displays of items within the room itself. For example, if you have a bunch of balls of yarn, sort them according to color (reds next to orange tints, etc.) and place them in a wooden cube bookcase for quick access and visual appeal.

4. Repurpose materials as storage containers. Almost any container that is sturdy with a lid can be reused as storage in your craft room. Try to think creatively and find jars, buckets, etc. that you find visually appealing already. They will be even more attractive when holding your supplies.

Here are a few unique ideas. To house smaller items such as sequins, use little plastic pill storage boxes that you can get at a pharmacy or grocery store. For colored beads, place them in a spice rack by color for ease of access and beauty. Small tins or colored buckets make a great storage option for pens, pencils, and paintbrushes.

For a more industrial look, grab a magnetic knife holder from your kitchen, attach it to the wall of your craft room, and use it to display your sharp cutting devices and scissors. This works best when positioned close to your standing work area.

Look at crafting sites and blogs online or buy inspirational craft books/magazines in order to find additional design ideas that may suit your particular space and taste.

5. Label everything. This is especially important when storing items in plastic bins or opaque containers. As you put away every storage container, make sure that it has a clear and visible label that you can see from the center of your craft room. For example, the bin with tape should say, “Tape-clear.”

You can get as fancy as you’d like with the labels. Some people prefer to use a standard label maker while others print directly from online templates. You can even make your own labels by hand.

6. Install shelving. You want to get the most use out of all surfaces within your room, so don’t ignore the walls. Look around your craft room and consider adding shelves to many of the open spaces on the walls. Think creatively about shelving and use materials such as recycled bookcase shelves or even old metal signs repurposed as shelves.

Method 3 Organizing Your Space for Creative Inspiration.

1. Locate your work table for ease of access. Get a sturdy table that you’d feel comfortable working on and place it in the most convenient space in the room, usually right in the middle. You want to be able to access it from all sides. Consider adding a chair or stool, unless you plan to stand all of the time when crafting.

In addition to your main table, you may want another one placed against the wall that will almost act like a workbench. You can hang items on the wall next to it for quick grabbing access.

2. Keep your favorite supplies close by. The materials that you are using for a current project, or those that you consistently rely upon, should be placed close to your table workspace. For example, if you are a seamstress, do not hide your best pair of cutting shears in a labeled storage bin in the closet.

3. Emphasize the natural light when possible. If you have a choice of room, pick a room with ample light sources. This will help to save you from eye strain as you work on your projects. You can also supplement the light by adding interesting (and bright) lamps. Hanging lamps often work the quite well as they are out of the way.

4. Create an inspiration board. Pin up photos or drawings to a fabric-covered poster board. Or, hang a magnetic board on your wall and attach items to it. Clip or write down quotes that you like and attach them to the board. Let it keep growing until you feel the need to remove some items into storage. This can be a fairly chaotic, but inspirational space, in an another organized room.

To add even more visual appeal, use colorful and creative stick-pins to attach items to the board. You can even go with pieces of patterned tape too.

5. Decorate with beautiful craft items. If you love your yarn, don’t hide it, display it. As you sort out items at the start of this process, look for those supplies that you find particularly visually stunning or exciting. Try to create spaces out in the open to store these items. For example, lengths of ribbon can be stored and displayed by hanging a peg board on the wall.

6. Create more access by manipulating your space. Don’t be afraid to use every inch of your craft room for some storage, display, or work purpose. You can paint inspirational quotes on the ceiling and hang items from it too. You can go vertical up the walls and increase your reach by employing footstools. Typically neglected areas, such as the backs of doors, can be put to good use with hanging storage pouches.

Increase your visibility in closet spaces by removing the doors and replacing them with a rod and curtain. When you first enter your room, sweep aside the curtain and you’ve got instant access and visibility into this space.

Tips.

You might want to do an inventory as you sort and organize, in order to determine what supplies you need to reorder.

Warnings.

Think about design and utility, but also safety. If you will have kids in your craft room, watch how you display sharp tools, etc.

November 25, 2019

how to make pom pom sheep

How to Make Pom Pom Sheep.

Whether you're looking to make a cute Easter decoration or just a fun craft to do with your kids, a pom pom sheep fits the bill. It's easy to make your own pom pom with just some yarn and a piece of cardboard, so you can customize your sheep to look exactly the way you want. Add a simple head made of craft foam and googly eyes and pipe cleaner legs, and you have an adorable farm animal to decorate your home.

Part 1 Creating the Pom Pom.

1. Cut out a piece of cardboard. To make the pom pom for the sheep, you’ll need a cardboard rectangle to wrap your yarn around. For a large sheep, cut a piece that’s 3-inches by 5-inches (8-cm by 13-cm). For small sheep, cut a piece that’s 3-inches by 2-inches (8-cm by 5-cm).

You can adjust the size of the cardboard to customize the size of sheep if you prefer.

After you cut the cardboard, it’s a good idea to wrap it in packing tape. That will allow the yarn to slide off it more easily when you’re finished making the pom pom.

2. Wrap the yarn around the cardboard. For the pom pom, you need fluffy white, cream, brown, or black yarn. Instead of cutting the yarn to a certain length, remove an end from the ball or skein and begin wrapping it around the cardboard widthwise. For a large sheep, wrap the yarn around the cardboard 120 times. For a small sheep, wrap the yarn around the cardboard 75 to 80 times.

Use one hand to hold the end of the yarn in place as you wrap it side by side in a single layer on the cardboard. Once you’ve covered the cardboard, start creating a second layer over the first. Continue working until you’ve wrapped the yarn around the suggested number of times.

While white, cream, brown, or black yarn offers the most realistic sheep look, you can substitute your favorite color yarn, such as pink or blue.

3. Bend the cardboard to slide off the yarn. When you’ve completely wrapped the cardboard with the yarn, use your fingers to bend the cardboard slightly widthwise to contract it. That makes it easier to carefully slide the yarn from the card.

Be gentle as you pull the yarn from the cardboard and make sure to hold it together so it stays together.

4. Tie twine around the middle of the yarn bundle. Once you’ve freed the yarn from the cardboard, use a piece of twine to secure the bundle in the middle. Tie the yarn as tightly as you can to ensure that it stays together.

If you don’t have twine, you can substitute a piece of yarn. However, twine is stronger than yarn so it usually does a better job of holding the pom pom together.

5. Cut the loops of the yarn to form the pom pom. When the yarn is securely tied with the twine, use a pair of scissors to cut the loops. This will create the pom pom shape for your sheep.

After you cut the loops, you may need to trim some pieces to get the look that you want for your sheep.

Part 2 Making the Head and Legs.

1. Draw the shape of the sheep’s head on craft foam and cut it out. To make the sheep’s face, you’ll need a piece of black craft foam. Use a pencil or pen to draw the shape of the sheep’s head, complete with ears, on the foam as a guide. Next, carefully cut the head out with a pair of scissors.

If you’re not comfortable drawing the sheep’s head freehand, you can find templates online at various craft websites, such as Dad Can Do .

The proper size for sheep’s head will depend on how large your pom pom is. It should fit on one end of the pom pom.

If you used dark yarn for the pom pom, use white craft foam for the head.

You can use a craft knife to cut out the head if you prefer.

2. Stick googly eyes on the head. Once you’ve cut out the sheep’s head, select two googly eyes that will fit on it side by side. Apply your favorite type of craft glue to the back of the eyes, and press them onto the foam head.

You can find googly eyes in a variety of sizes at the craft store.

Make sure to let the glue dry for at least 5 minutes, so you can be sure the eyes won’t fall off when you begin to assemble the sheep.

3. Fold two black pipe cleaners in half. For the sheep’s legs, you’ll need two black pipe cleaners that are approximately 4- to 5-inches (10- to 13-cm) long. Bend the pipe cleaner in half to create a “V” shape.

Part 3 Assembling the Sheep.

1. Glue the head to the front of the sheep. Add a dab of glue to the back of the sheep’s head that you’ve made. Carefully press it onto your pom pom, and hold it for 30 to 60 seconds to ensure that it is secure.

You can use any type of glue to secure that works on fabric to secure the head to the pom pom. However, you may have an easier time if you use a hot glue gun.

2. Thread the pipe cleaner front legs through the pom pom. Take one of the bent black pipe cleaners and push it through the pom pom on one side near the front. Make sure that the pipe cleaner is threaded through the yarn pom pom so it is secure.

Some thread may come loose when you thread the pipe cleaner through. You can trim any errant strands.

3. Press the second pipe cleaner through the back of the pom pom. After you’ve secured the pipe cleaner for the front legs, push the second one through the pom pom near the back. Pull it through to the other side to create the second set of legs.

Take care with your placement of the second pipe cleaner. You want to ensure that it’s far enough back from the first to provide proper balance for the sheep to stand.

4. Adjust the pipe cleaners to allow the sheep to stand. Once both pipe cleaners are threaded through the pom pom, bend the four ends to create feet that help the sheep stand. You may need to adjust the length of the pipe cleaners on each side to ensure that the sheep is balanced properly.

Tips.

You can use the same technique to create a create a pom pom bunny and/or chick to serve as Easter decorations.

This is a kid-friendly activity, but be sure to supervise their use of scissors and the hot glue gun.

Things You’ll Need.

Cardboard.

A ball or skein of fluffy yarn in white, cream, black, or brown.

Scissors.

Twine.

Black craft foam.

Two googly eyes.

Two black pipe cleaners.

Desember 01, 2019

diy cat scratching post for your feline friends

diy cat scratching post for your feline friends

DIY Cat Scratching Post

More often than not, cats can be found lounging in the sun or snoozing the day away. But don’t let them fool you—they love to play. Cats love climbing, chasing, and jumping just as much as any other pet.



But all the climbing and scratching can lead to wear and tear. Instead of sacrificing your beloved couch or armchair, find some enriching toys to give your feline to keep them happy and healthy. That way, everyone can live in peace.



While perusing the pet store shelves, you may notice that most toys, treats, and beds are lacking in style. For some reason, a lot of pet products are behind the curve when it comes to aesthetically pleasing design. With DIY, you can maintain your dream home’s modern decor while giving your pet everything you need.



This DIY scratching post is sure to please your furry friend. Plus, it will look great hanging on your wall! Say goodbye to boring beige cat furniture.



Gather Your Supplies

This DIY requires a few easy-to-find supplies. To make it even more budget-friendly, head to a second-hand store to find a frame. You can easily upcycle it at a low cost.



Here’s what you’ll need:



Small rug



Scissors



Measuring tape



11" x 14" picture frame





Measure and Cut Your Rug

You may not even have to head to the store to find the carpet material for this project. If you remodeled your home, you likely already have some leftover carpet in the garage.



But if not, you can find carpet samples at local carpet retailers. Or you can use an indoor/outdoor decorative rug (like the one we used), a door mat, or even a bath rug. Just be sure your material isn’t unraveled or damaged—that’s the cat’s job.



Before using your scissors to cut your carpet, use a measuring tape to measure the size of the picture frame. Then, use those measurements to cut a rectangular section of your carpet that will fit perfectly inside the picture frame. If the first try isn’t perfect, just keep trimming away.



Your regular pair of scissors will sometimes work for this, but it depends on the material you use. If it’s difficult to cut with scissors, try using sharp shears.



Secure in Frame

Once you have cut your material to match the size of your frame, it’s time to secure them together.



First, remove the sample photo and glass cover from your picture frame. These parts aren’t necessary and you can keep them for future crafts or recycle them if you have no use for them.



If your picture frame has a kickstand on the back, it may be necessary to remove it. This frame will be hung on the wall and a kickstand on the back may make it too bulky, causing it to stick out when it’s hung up.



Secure your piece of rug or carpet inside your picture frame. Be sure to apply the cardboard backing piece that came with the frame onto the back to make sure things stay in place.



Display

The moment we’ve all been waiting for is here! Now that your DIY is finished, you’ve got an adorable piece of wall decor that looks great and satisfies your kitty to no end. Every cat will appreciate this fun toy. And when it wears out, just replace the material inside to keeping things looking new.



Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/



Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





craft handmade, 5 minute craft, craft game, craft paper, craft meaning, craft apk, craft ideas, craft indonesia, diy craft paper, diy craft tutorial, diy craft youtube, diy craft indonesia, diy craft wood, diy craft room, diy crafts to sell, diy creative

November 01, 2019

how to crochet a kitty eyeball toy

How to Crochet a Kitty Eyeball Toy.

A toy that says "eye love my cat". This eyeball toy is easy to crochet and will prove very entertaining for your cat.

Skill level: Intermediate

Steps.

1. Note that the pattern is worked continuously without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

2. Commence crocheting. With black, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc.

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc.

3. Change to Iris Color.

Rnd 3. Sc in blo of first sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 4. Sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 5. Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 6. Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 36 sc.

4. Change to white.

Rnd 7. Sc in blo of first 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 42 sc.

Rnds 8 - 14. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 15. Dec 1 in first 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, *dec 1 in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, rep from * around. 36 sc.

Rnd 16. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 17. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 18. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 19.' Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around. 12 sc.

5. Stuff the toy.

6. Complete Rnd 20. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc in rnd. Do not finish off; 6 sc.

7. Finish. Ch 3. Keep the loop of yarn on the crochet hook and pull it taut. Do not remove the hook! Hold the three feathers flat against the ch-3 chain, with the tips of the feathers pointing toward the eyeball.

8. Tape the feathers around the ch-3 chain to keep them in place, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the stems of the feathers extending above the tape. Then, still keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, take the free end of the yarn and wrap it tightly around the stem of the feathers, covering the tape and working from top to bottom.

9. Fold the stems of the feathers down over the section that was just wrapped in yarn and tape in place again. Once again, keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, wrap the free end of yarn tightly around the tape, this time working from bottom to top.

10. When the entire taped section is wrapped in yarn, begin with the loop still left on the crochet hook and work 36 ch as usual. Then remove the crochet hook from the last chain and thread the loop through the holes in the jingle bells (you may need to pull the loop to make it long enough to thread through the bells, but take care not to rip out the entire ch-36 chain).

11. Reinsert the hook into the loop and sl st in the first ch of the ch-36. Finish off. Weave in all ends. If desired, brush a coat of non-toxic white craft glue around the wrapped, taped ends of the feathers to prevent unraveling. Allow to dry completely overnight.

12. Finished.

Tips.

Finished size: About 3 inches (7.6 cm) in diameter.


Abbreviations:

blo = back loops only, ch = chain, dec = decrease, ea = each, mm = millimeter, rep = repeat.

rnd = round, rnds = rounds, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, yd = yard.


Things You'll Need.

White: 120 yard (109.7 m) 4/worsted weight yarn.

Iris color: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Black: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook.

Two 3/4-inch jingle bells.

Three craft feathers.

Stitch markers, Yarn needle.

Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice.

Clear adhesive tape.

Non-toxic white craft glue (optional").

Desember 12, 2019

how to crochet a kitty eyeball toy

How to Crochet a Kitty Eyeball Toy.

A toy that says "eye love my cat". This eyeball toy is easy to crochet and will prove very entertaining for your cat.



Skill level: Intermediate



Steps.

1. Note that the pattern is worked continuously without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

2. Commence crocheting. With black, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc.

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc.

3. Change to Iris Color.

Rnd 3. Sc in blo of first sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 4. Sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 5. Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 6. Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 36 sc.

4. Change to white.

Rnd 7. Sc in blo of first 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 42 sc.

Rnds 8 - 14. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 15. Dec 1 in first 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, *dec 1 in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, rep from * around. 36 sc.

Rnd 16. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 17. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 18. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 19.' Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around. 12 sc.

5. Stuff the toy.

6. Complete Rnd 20. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc in rnd. Do not finish off; 6 sc.

7. Finish. Ch 3. Keep the loop of yarn on the crochet hook and pull it taut. Do not remove the hook! Hold the three feathers flat against the ch-3 chain, with the tips of the feathers pointing toward the eyeball.

8. Tape the feathers around the ch-3 chain to keep them in place, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the stems of the feathers extending above the tape. Then, still keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, take the free end of the yarn and wrap it tightly around the stem of the feathers, covering the tape and working from top to bottom.

9. Fold the stems of the feathers down over the section that was just wrapped in yarn and tape in place again. Once again, keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, wrap the free end of yarn tightly around the tape, this time working from bottom to top.

10. When the entire taped section is wrapped in yarn, begin with the loop still left on the crochet hook and work 36 ch as usual. Then remove the crochet hook from the last chain and thread the loop through the holes in the jingle bells (you may need to pull the loop to make it long enough to thread through the bells, but take care not to rip out the entire ch-36 chain).

11. Reinsert the hook into the loop and sl st in the first ch of the ch-36. Finish off. Weave in all ends. If desired, brush a coat of non-toxic white craft glue around the wrapped, taped ends of the feathers to prevent unraveling. Allow to dry completely overnight.

12. Finished.



Tips.

Finished size: About 3 inches (7.6 cm) in diameter.

Abbreviations.



blo = back loops only.

ch = chain.

dec = decrease.

ea = each.

mm = millimeter.

rep = repeat.

rnd = round.

rnds = rounds.

sc = single crochet.

sl st = slip stitch.

yd = yard.

Things You'll Need.

White: 120 yard (109.7 m) 4/worsted weight yarn.

Iris color: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Black: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook.

Two 3/4-inch jingle bells.

Three craft feathers.

Stitch markers.

Yarn needle.

Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice.

Clear adhesive tape.

Non-toxic white craft glue (optional").

Februari 23, 2020

how to make colored salt

How to Make Colored Salt.

Colored salt is used for art and craft, for decoration, for teaching skills with writing or drawing, and for making rangoli for Diwali. It's easy to make, and depending on the exact items in your craft or kitchen cupboard, you might even be able to make it without buying a thing.







Coloring Salt with Paint.



Fill a container with salt. A jug or pitcher, a deep bowl, a plastic food container, etc. will all suffice.



Squeeze a little tempera paint into the salt.



Mix with a spoon or other item. Stir until the paint is evenly distributed through the salt.



Let stand overnight to dry.

Make as many more colors as you need for your project. That way, they'll all be ready at the same time.



Test before using. Check that the salt has dried before using in your craft, rangoli, teaching, etc. projects.









Coloring Salt with Liquid Food Coloring.



Use liquid food coloring for this method. Choose a color or colors that you wish to work with.



Tip the salt into a resealable bag.



Add the liquid food coloring to the salt. It's recommended that you do this gradually, a drop at a time, so that you can intensify the color as needed and stop when you're happy with it. The more drops added, the more intense the color.



Carefully press the air from the resealable bag without losing the salt. Seal. Wait for around a minute before proceeding, to give the salt time to settle.

Image titled Make Colored Salt Step 10

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Press down on the bag again and again. This will move the coloring around all of the salt. Knead until you can see that the color has permeated all of the salt in the plastic bag.



Done. The salt is now ready for use. If you see any salt that is damp, let it dry before use, by allowing air into the bag and waiting a few hours more.

If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.







Coloring Salt with Gel Food Coloring.



For this method, use gel-based food coloring. You should find it dries instantly and won't leave any liquid, which may be the case with liquid food coloring.



Tip the salt into a resealable bag.



Add the gel food coloring. Transfer the gel using an implement such as a wooden or metallic skewer tip, the end of a butter knife or a toothpick. Only use a small amount at a time, adding a little more if you're not yet satisfied with the color. Gel coloring is fairly vibrant with just a little amount, so you don't want to overdo it.



Carefully press down on the bag to remove excess air. Seal tightly.



Shake or knead the color throughout the bag. Ensure that all of the salt is evenly colored.



Done. Given that this is gel, the colored salt should be ready to use immediately.

If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.







Coloring Salt with Chalk.



Choose a chalk color that you wish to use. Chalks come in a range of pastel and bright colors, depending on where you buy them from. Check art, craft or upmarket toy stores for a wider variety than you might find in traditional stationery or dollar stores.



Cover the workspace with a large sheet of paper.



Pour the salt onto the paper. The amount of salt depends on the amount you need.



Place the piece of chalk on its side, on the salt. Roll the chalk back and forth over the salt on the paper. As you do this, the color from the chalk will color the salt. Keep rolling until you're happy with the color.



Using the paper as a funnel, pour the chalk-colored salt into a resealable bag or a storage container.



Done. The colored salt is now ready to use, or you can store it until needed.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.



Tips.

A rolling pin can be used to distribute the color for the resealable bag color-distributing methods; ensure that there is no air in the bag and roll it up and down until the salt is evenly colored.

Keep colored salt in an airtight container when not in use. Make sure that the lid is on firmly, to prevent spilling it.

For a bath treat, add some essential oil drops as well as the colorant.

If making a lot of colored salt in varied colors, use clean food containers to free up the usual kitchen containers for your cooking and eating.



Warnings.

While these crafts are non-toxic, they are very messy. As such, they are best either supervised carefully or done by older children and adults.



Things You'll Need.

Salt (sea salt, rock salt, table salt, Epsom salts, etc. are all fine to use).

Container for holding salt or a resealable bag.

Colorant.

Stirring implement (such as a spoon, a skewer, a chopstick, etc.).

Storage container (if relevant).

November 17, 2019

how to make bottle penguins

How to Make Bottle Penguins.

There are lots of ways to recycle plastic soda bottles, and turning them into adorable penguins is one of them. With a little bit of paint, time, and creativity, you can turn 2 plastic soda bottles into an adorable penguin. If you have a lot of plastic soda bottles then you can create an entire penguin family!

Part 1 Assembling the Base.

1. Find 2 plastic soda bottles. The large, 2-liter (67.2-oz) bottles will work the best for this, but you can use smaller soda bottles too. Look for the kind that have the 4 bumps on the bottom. These bumps will make the feet and the hat.

The color of the bottles does not matter. You will be painting it.

2. Remove the labels and wash the bottles. Peel the labels off first, then wash the bottles inside-out with soap and warm water. Be sure to remove all sticker residue. Dry the bottles with a towel.

Wipe the bottles down with rubbing alcohol as well. This will remove any oils that might keep the paint from sticking. Let the bottles dry; this should only take a few seconds.

3. Cut the bottles in half and recycle the top sections. A craft blade will work the best for this, but you can do it with a sharp pair of scissors too. Young children should be supervised during this step.

If the cut edge is jagged, cut it smoother with a pair of scissors.

For a smaller penguin, cut the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) off of the first bottle, and cut the second bottle in half. The shorter half will make the bottom.

4. Tuck 1 bottle inside the other to make a capsule. Turn the bottles so that the cut edges are facing one another. Slide the first bottle into the second bottle by about 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). If the bottles won't fit inside one another, cut a 1⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) slit into 1 of the bottles first; place this edge on the inside.

Make sure that the 4 bumps on the top and bottom of the capsule line up.

5. Glue the bottles together, if desired. If the bottles are loose, glue them together with tacky glue or super glue. Pull the bottles apart, and paint the inside rim of 1 bottle with glue. Slide it over the other bottle.

Hot glue is not recommended because it is too bulky.

Alternatively, you can keep the bottles loose, and use the penguin as a gift box.

Part 2 Painting the Penguin.

1. Paint the entire capsule black, then let it dry. Take the capsule outside or into a well-ventilated area. Set it down on a sheet of newspaper, then coat it with black spray paint. Let the paint dry for 15 to 20 minutes, then turn the capsule over. Spray paint the bottom and let it dry completely.

Hold the can 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) from the capsule, and spray using a side-to-side motion.

If the paint is too thin, let it dry completely, then apply another coat of paint.

If you don't have spray paint, paint the capsule using black acrylic craft paint and a paintbrush.

2. Paint the penguin's face and belly white, then allow them to dry. Use a pointed paintbrush and white acrylic craft paint to outline the white face and belly of the penguin. Fill your outline in using a flat paintbrush. Let the paint dry, then add another layer if the first layer is too thin. Let the second layer dry too, if you added it.

Look at pictures of real or cartoon penguins to get ideas for the placement of the white parts.

Make sure that 2 of the bumps on the base of the capsule line up with the bottom of the penguin's belly. These are its feet!

If you are making a smaller penguin, use the shorter half to make the bottom.

3. Give the penguin a widow's peak, if desired. Use a pointed brush and black acrylic craft paint to draw a V-shape at the top of the penguin's white face. Fill the V-shape in with black paint so that it blends in with the body. For an even nicer finish, made the sides of the V-shape curved so that it looks like Mickey Mouse's widow's peak. Let the paint dry before moving on.

4. Paint 2 eyes and a beak using acrylic craft paint. Use a yellow upside-down triangle for the beak, and 2 black dots for the eyes. For a more realistic beak, paint a yellow or orange circle, then draw a horizontal black line going through the middle.

Look at pictures of cartoon penguins to get ideas.

You can also hot glue 2 buttons or 2 googly eyes for the eyes.

If you don't have yellow paint, cut a triangle out of yellow paper, and glue that on instead.

Part 3 Adding Optional Details.

1. Give your penguin character with lashes, eyebrows, and/or blush. You don't have to do any of these, but they can really give your penguin personality. Use a very thin brush for the lashes and/or eyebrows, or a paint pen. Use a larger pointed brush to apply pink paint for the blush.

If you want to give your penguin visible yellow feet, paint the 2 bumps in the front (under the white bellow) with yellow acrylic craft paint.

2. Paint the top half of the bottle to turn it into a hat. The 4 bumps on top of your penguin's head can easily turn into a hat. Paint a line around the penguin's head, just above the eyes, then fill in everything above that line. Use whatever color you want.

If you have a molded line just below the bumps, you can use that as a guide instead.

3. Let the hat dry, then add some details. You can make the hat look more hat-like by painting or drawing some stripes or spots onto it. Use a thin, pointed paintbrush and acrylic craft paint in a contrasting color to do this. Let the paint dry when you are done.

Use a paint pen for thin stripes or small dots.

4. Glue a pompom to the top of the hat, if desired. You can make the pompom yourself out of yarn, or you can buy it from the kids section of a craft store. Hot glue the pompom to the top of the hat, right between all 4 bumps.

Choose a pompom color that matches the designs on your hat. If you did not add designs, then use a contrasting color instead.

5. Tie ribbon around the neck to make a scarf. Find some ribbon that goes well with the hat. Wrap the ribbon around the penguin's neck, then cross the left end over the right end. Bring the left end up through the gap, then tighten it. This is just like starting to tie a pair of shoes!

Glue both ends of the ribbon to the penguin so that they stay down.

If you are turning this into a gift box, make sure that you keep the ribbon below the seam.

You can also cut a long, skinny strip out of felt, and use that instead of ribbon. Cut fringes into each end for additional charm.

Question : How do we make the eyes?
Answer : Cut out two small black circles, and two slightly larger yellow circles. Glue the black circles onto the yellow circles, and glue those onto the white face.

Question : We don't have to remove the bottle cap?
Answer : If you have removed the cap, you will have to tape or otherwise plug the hole on the top to "sculpt" the rounded top of the head on, so it is not recommended to remove the cap. However, taping or a cork replacement can be used.

Question : Can I use a plastic bottle?
Answer : Yes, but it may be hard to paint.

Tips.

If you want your penguin to have a pointy hat, discard 1 of the bottom halves and keep 1 of the top halves. Use the top half as the hat.

Use paintbrushes made from sable or taklon bristles. Do not use boar bristle, horsehair, or camelhair.

Spray the penguin with varnish or sealer, if desired. Do this after you finish painting, but before you add pompoms and scarves.

You can spray the capsule with paint primer first to help the paint stick better.

If you are worried about the paint chipping, spray the capsule with paint primer before you start painting.

Warnings.

Use low-temp hot glue guns to avoid blisters and burns. Do not use high-temp hot glue guns.

Things You'll Need.

2 plastic soda bottles, Craft blade, Black spray paint, Acrylic craft paint (white, yellow, and black).

Acrylic craft paint, 2 contrasting colors, Flat and pointed paintbrushes, Ribbon or felt, Pompom, Hot glue, Tacky glue or super glue.

Januari 23, 2020

how to give a craft workshop

How to Give a Craft Workshop.

So... you've been crafting for a while... and so many people have asked you how you do that craft that you're considering putting on a workshop? Perhaps your local craft shop has an interest in you coming in to demonstrate your craft? Here are some things to consider...

Steps.

1. Think through your needs. You will need space, supplies, a method of communicating so that everyone can hear, good lighting, comfortable room, etc.

2. Plan your presentation. Make a lesson plan of sorts... what will you say? What order will you present it in? How will you make your presentation interesting and easy to remember?

3. Register the participants in some way... either by paying for the class or by RSVP. This will allow you to get a handle on how many people to plan for and how much you will need in the way of supplies and elbow room. This also gives you contact information for each participant so you will be able to follow up later if you want.

4. Arrange for space. If you have a large number of potential participants and space is at a premium, you could do several smaller classes instead of one larger one. On the other hand, if you have a large room, you may need some sort of public address system so that everyone can hear.

5. Arrange for supplies and make detailed lists of supplies necessary to do this craft. Nothing is so small that it does not matter. Things like pins, needles, measuring tape etc. can make or break the class.

6. Space chairs and tables comfortably. Too few tables for too many people leads to frustration for both you and your students.

7. Anticipate as many needs as you can... and make arrangements for them. The more thinking you do in advance, the less apologizing you will do during and after the class.

8. Recruit enough helpers. If the group is over 5 people, you'll need assistants who can help each participant individually with their projects.

Tips.

Give a last date to register at least 2 days in advance so there is time to buy the required items.

If the materials are costly, have participants either purchase their own supplies or pay for them up front when they register. Not enough materials is a major frustration and time waster.

It is better to have too many supplies left over than not enough. If you must err, err on the generous side.

November 26, 2019

how to easy build a ballista

How to Build a Ballista.

If you like medieval weaponry capable of flinging arrows through the air, try building your own ballista. A ballista consists of a frame, a launch ramp with a slide, and a tensioned string. You can build all of these components with popsicle sticks, thread, and other basic supplies. Add a launch pin to create a small ballista that enables you fire bolts with a pull of a string.







Part 1 Assembling the Frame.



Drill holes through a pair of 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. Measure 1 in (2.5 cm) from the ends and mark the spots with a pencil. Before working on the sticks, lay down a piece of cardboard to protect your work surface from damage. Then, use a drill bit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter to create the holes.

The simplest way to create a ballista is with inexpensive popsicle sticks, available online, at craft supply store, and other areas.

If you wish to make a larger ballista, trying using larger pieces of wood or foam in place of the popsicle sticks.



Poke a second, smaller hole next to each of the bigger ones. Measure about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) along the stick’s length from one of the existing holes. Use a steel probe 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in diameter or a similar sharp tool to poke all the way through the wood. Position the hole so it’s slightly lower, closer to the edge of the stick, than the larger hole. Create a matching hole on the opposite end of the first stick and create corresponding holes on the second stick.

Each popsicle stick has 4 holes when you’re finished, a pair of holes on either end. The bigger holes are used to secure the ballista frame together, while the smaller holes are for the launcher.

To test the smaller holes, try squeezing a wood cocktail skewer through them. Get skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Widen the holes as needed to fit the skewers.



Cut a pair of wood blocks to 1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm). The easiest way to do this is to purchase wood crafting blocks. If you can’t find the exact size you need, cut the blocks to size with a crafting knife or another tool. Get blocks that are about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. Scrape away the excess wood until both blocks are the same size.

Shop online or visit a craft store to see what kind of wood blocks are available. You can use scrap wood if you wish, but crafting blocks are much smoother and easier to work with.

Be careful when using a crafting knife. The blocks are small, so it’s easy to slip while handling the blade. Work slowly to avoid potential accidents.

Image titled Build a Ballista Step 4

4

Glue the blocks to the ends of the popsicle sticks. Heat up a hot glue gun loaded with a fresh stick of white glue. Spread a layer of glue over the ends of the 1 of the sticks, then lay the blocks on top of that. Align the longer ends of each block with the edges of the popsicle stick. Spread another layer of glue on top of the wood blocks to secure the second popsicle stick.

Make sure you align the holes in the popsicle sticks before gluing them in place. The holes need to be positioned evenly over one another in order for the ballista launch its arrows later.







Part 2 Building and Attaching the Launch Ramp.



Cut about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) off the end of another popsicle stick. Trim this new stick to size by measuring and slicing it apart with your craft knife. Another safe way to do this is by snapping the end off with scissors or wire cutters. Trim any stray wood fibers off the cut end so it looks smooth and even.

Cutting popsicle sticks can be tricky since they are pretty fragile. Work slowly, gradually deepening the cut you make. Bend the popsicle stick back and forth along the groove you cut to prevent it from splintering.

If you have experience with wood cutting, try using a fine saw blade like a band saw. Always wear earmuffs, eye goggles, and a dust mask while operating a saw.



Trim a pair of cocktail skewers to 5 1⁄2 in (14 cm) in length. Get some wood skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Measure and mark the skewers as needed with a ruler and pencil. Then, cut the skewers evenly on both ends to trim off the sharp points. The skewers need to be the same length as the popsicle stick you cut, so use it for comparison.

Wood skewers are available online in addition to some craft stores, general stores, and restaurant supply stores.

Cut the skewers by using a craft knife or by snapping the ends off with wire cutters.



Glue the skewers to the top of the popsicle stick. Place the skewers on the long edges of the popsicle stick you cut. Lay down a bead of glue from a hot glue gun to secure the skewers in place. Trim the ends of the skewers as needed to smooth them out and make them even with the ends of the stick.

Now you have a basic launch ramp. The skewers form a groove for you to load the ballista’s ammunition.



Secure the ramp to the center of the frame you built. Get your popsicle stick frame with the holes drilled in it. Turn the ramp over and spread some hot glue on the end of it. Then, secure it over the bottom popsicle stick in the frame. Put it as close to the center of the frame as possible, aligning the end of the ramp with the back edge of the frame.

Hot glue dries relatively quickly, so you don’t need to worry too much about the frame and ramp components coming apart. Set the pieces aside as needed for 10 to 20 minutes to give the glue a chance to solidify. It takes about 24 hours to fully cure.







Part 3 Creating the Launcher Mechanism.



Break a 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle stick into halves. Divide the stick evenly into halves about 2 1⁄4 in (5.7 cm) long. These sticks are smaller than the frame pieces and are part of the ballista’s launching system. Use a craft knife or wire cutters to split the stick across its width and then smooth out the cut end.

Purchase a separate bag of smaller popsicle sticks online or at a craft store. Alternatively, cut smaller pieces of wood boards or foam if you’re making the ballista with those materials.



Poke a hole 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each stick. Use a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-thick steel probe or a similar tool sold at craft stores. Make a single hole near the rounded end, leaving the cut end alone. Pierce all the way through the wood.



Pull pieces of string through the larger holes in the frame. Getting the string through the holes is tricky, so have a cocktail skewer nearby to push it through. Slide both ends of a string 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter through the top hole, then through the respective hole in the bottom frame piece. Leave the string long enough to form small loops above and below the ballista frame.

Try using twine from a craft store for a strong material that isn’t likely to break when you’re having fun launching makeshift arrows.



Tie small skewers to the frame using the string loops. Cut a couple of wood skewers down to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length. Start with the top loop by placing a skewer inside of it and pulling the string tight. Then, tie the loose ends of the string into a knot with another skewer underneath it.

Lay the skewers flat against the frame pieces. Orient them so they’re perpendicular to the frame pieces. Then, tie the knots as tight as you can to hold the skewers in place.



Place the small popsicle sticks between the strings and tighten them. The popsicle sticks you cut earlier fit between the frame pieces. Slide about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of the cut ends of the sticks between the ropes. Then, twist the bottom skewers clockwise to tighten the string as much as possible.

When the small sticks are positioned correctly, you can move them back and forth without them sliding out of place. This is necessary for moving the ballista’s launcher to let arrows fly a long way.



Slide another skewer into each of the inner holes on the frame. Cut 2 more skewers to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length to fit those holes. Make them look nice and even like the other skewers before fitting them through the frame. Make sure the skewers go all the way through the respective holes on the top and bottom frame pieces.

Protect the strings by tying the ends to the bottoms of these skewers, if possible. If you do this, the skewers maintain the string’s tension, leading to much more impressive launches!



Tie a length of string between the launcher’s stick arms. Set the ballista so the back end is in front of you. Thread the 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string into the holes in the small popsicle sticks hanging from the ballista frame. Knot both ends of the string to secure it, then trim off the excess length.

The exact length of string you need to form the launcher depends on the material you used. Try threading the string through both holes before cutting it from the spool. Always cut it longer than you need so you can knot it tightly.







Part 4 Making the Slide and Supports.



Glue a block underneath the back end of the launch ramp. Get another 1.5 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood block. The block needs to be approximately the same width as the ramp in order to keep the ballista stable while you’re firing it. Set the ramp in the glue, aligning its back edge with the back end of the block.

Installing the block makes the ballista ramp slanted so it launches arrows higher into the air.



Cut grooves in a small block to create the ballista’s slider. Cut the grooves into a small piece of wood about 1.5 × 1 × 1⁄2 in (3.8 × 2.5 × 1.3 cm) in size. The launcher needs separate grooves in the front and back, both as thick as the string you used when tying the launcher arms together. Make the 2 grooves about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from either end. Use a crafting knife to scrape away the wood, making the grooves circular and about half as deep as the block.

Try making the slider out of a wood peg bought online or a craft store. If you use scrap wood, make sure it is solid and smooth so you can slide it along the ramp.



Create a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood cap to fit on top of the slider. Simply cut a smaller popsicle stick to the exact length and width as the slider. Cut the cap into a rectangle with no rounded edges. When you’re ready to install it, put the launcher string into the slider’s front groove. Spread some hot glue, then press the cap onto the top of the slider.

Test the cap out by putting it on the slider before you add the glue. Check that it’s big enough to cover the slider and pin the string in place.



Drill 45-degree angle holes in a block of wood. This block needs to be about 2 × 1 1⁄2 × 1⁄2 in (5.1 × 3.8 × 1.3 cm) longer than the one on the back end of the ballista. Position the holes about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the smaller sides of the block. Use a drill bit approximately 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide to drill diagonally towards the center of the block.

Drill all the way through the other side of the block. Keep the holes as even as possible to build a stable base for the ballista frame.



Fit wood dowels into the holes on the block. Use a pair of 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-thick dowels cut to about 4 in (10 cm) long. Slice them using a craft knife, wire cutters, or a saw if you have one. Then, put some hot glue on the ends of the dowels and push them as far into the holes as possible.

Look online or at a local craft supply store for the perfect dowels for your project.



Glue the block to the front side of the frame to stand the ballista up. Flip the block over and spread a thick bead of glue across its length. Lift up the front end of the ballista to stick the block to the bottom of the frame. After pressing the pieces firmly together, consider letting the glue dry for about 10 minutes.

If the block is wider than the frame, you could try whittling it down with a carving knife or craft knife. As long as your base is stable, doing this isn’t necessary, but it can make the ballista look a little neater.







Part 5 Completing the Firing Mechanism.



Glue long spacer pieces to the sides of the back block. Cut the spacer pieces so they are about 4 in × 1.5 in (10.2 cm × 3.8 cm) in size. Spread more hot glue, then press them against the block supporting the back end of the ramp. These parts are there to support the rest of the parts you need to add, so they don’t need to be pretty and can be longer than the block itself.

Make sure the spacer pieces stick out from underneath the ramp a little bit. The pieces that attach to them need to extend over the ramp or else you won’t be able to fire the ballista.



Cut 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) off the ends of a large popsicle stick. Measure and mark the length you need to cut on one of the 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. You need 2 of these pieces, so cut off both ends of the stick. Leave the rounded ends of the stick intact.

Cut the stick carefully with a craft knife, wire cutters, or saw. Work slowly to avoid splintering the wood and smooth out the edges as needed.



Make a hole about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each piece. Create the holes by poking a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe or a similar sharp tool through the wood. Keep the holes along the center part of the wood. Make them as even as possible to ensure the ballista parts line up appropriately when you install them.



Glue the popsicle ends to the side pieces on the block. The sticks need to be near the tail end of the block. Also, position the sticks about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) up from the bottom edge of the block. Spread glue over the wood and press them onto the block to hold them in place.

Make sure the ends of the sticks extend over the ramp. The holes need to be about level with the top edge of the slider in order to string the launch rope through it.



Bend a metal rod to fit through the holes in the wood. Get a metal rod about 4 in (10 cm) long and about 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in width to fit through the holes. Pull the launcher piece back and thread the rod through its second groove and the holes in the sticks. Then, use pliers to bend one end of the rod back over itself. The rod forms a launch pin that stays in place until you're ready to use it.

Test the pin by attempting to move it. If it feels loose, bend the end back on itself more to keep the pin in place. Leave the other end of the pin alone so it can slide out of the hole.



Tie a string to the end of the launch pin. Cut some 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string to complete the launching mechanism. Try trimming it to about 3 to 4 in (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in length. Knot the string a few times to the bent end of the launch pin to quickly pull it out when you wish to fire the ballista.

Keep the string at a comfortable length. If it is too long or short, you may have a hard time pulling out the pin in a quick, fluid motion.



Cut cocktail skewers to about 5 in (13 cm) for ammunition. Trim the pointed ends off of as many skewers as you wish to use. When you’re ready to use the ballista, put a single arrow on the chute after pulling the slide back. Yank the string to pull the metal pin out, causing the slide to spring forward, sending the arrow through the air.

Always cut the points off of the skewers to avoid accidents. Also, never shoot the arrows at others. They can hurt, especially from bigger launchers.







Tips.

Ballista arrows are reusable. Collect the arrows after you fire them to ensure you have a steady supply of ammunition.

Small ballista designs can be blown up to create big rigs capable of throwing arrows long distances. Many big ballistas use wood planks and thick rope like the kind available at hardware stores.



Warnings.

Firing a ballista can be dangerous. To be safe, clear an area outdoors and fire it when no one else is around.

If you choose to use a saw to cut components, follow proper safety procedures to avoid injuries. Always wear earmuffs, goggles, and a dust mask.



Things You’ll Need.

Ruler, Craft knife, Wire cutters or scissors.

6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks, 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle sticks.

1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood blocks, 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-diameter wood skewers, 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-diameter wood dowels.

1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit, Drill.

1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe, Hot glue stick, Hot glue gun.

7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string, 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-diameter metal rod.

November 20, 2019

how to make a polymer clay penguin

How to Make a Polymer Clay Penguin.

There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!

Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.

1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.

2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.

3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.

4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.

5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.

6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.

7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.

8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.

9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.

Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.

Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.

10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.

11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.

12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.

13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.

14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.

15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.

If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.

16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.

17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.

Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.

1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.

Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!

2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.

3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.

4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.

5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.

6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.

7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.

If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.

8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.

9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.

If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.

10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.

11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.

Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.

Tips.

You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.

Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).

If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.

Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.

Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.

You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.

If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.

If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.

Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.

Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.



Warnings.

Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.



Things You'll Need

Making a Basic Penguin.

Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.

Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).



Making a Penguin Charm.

Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.

Oven, Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Orange acrylic paint, Thin paintbrush, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).

Januari 25, 2020

how to make fake snow

How to Make Fake Snow.

Artificial snow comes in handy for craft projects and when putting on a winter-themed event, such as a school play or the senior prom. Here are several methods for making fake snow that can top off art projects or enhance winter-themed events.

Method 1 Simple Fake Snow.

1. Tear up cotton. Take a cotton ball or cotton swab between your fingers and pull to stretch it out into wispy snow. Lay them out as a field of snow in craft projects, or reshape them into balls to make miniature snowmen.

2. Imitate falling snow with laundry soap flakes or instant potato flakes. Make a video of fluffy, falling snow by pouring this in front of the camera.

This also works as fallen snow. To make it more fancy, combine 4 cups (960mL) flakes, 1⅓ cup (320mL) liquid starch, several drops blue food coloring, and glitter.

3. Punch paper holes. Punch small holes from white paper and use the punched circles as snow. This works best when blown in front of a fan.

4. Add fake snow to snow globes. To refill a snow globe, pour in glycerine and small thermocol balls. You may use glitter or small beads instead of the thermocol.

5. Make a sparkly glaze for small craft projects. Mix ¼ cup (60mL) each of table salt and talcum powder. Spray the surface with spray-on craft glue or dab on white glue where you want the "snow" to stick. Sprinkle the sparkly mixture on the wet glue and allow to dry. Turn the project upside down to remove excess "snow."

6. Mix water with flour or baking soda. Start with white flour or baking soda. Add water one small spoonful at a time, mixing it up with a fork. Once you've formed a paste, cover the ground of a small winter scene. You can shape this into snowy hills and slopes with your hands. Sprinkle more flour over the top once finished.

Method 2 Realistic Fake Snow.

1. Combine sodium polyacrylate with water. Cut open a disposable diaper and remove the white granules; these are made from sodium polyacrylate. You can also buy it in powder or granulated form from the soil treatment section of a garden supply store. Powder makes fluffy "snow," while the granules create slushy "snow." Mix in water little by little until you obtain the desired consistency.

This may look more realistic if you put it in the freezer.

If it dries out, just add more water. If you want to keep it dry, reduce the amount of water and add salt.

2. Blend crushed ice and white paint. This melts quickly, so it will only work in a cold room. Pour the crushed ice in a big bowl, then stir in white paint. Add water slowly until the snow reaches the desired consistency.

3. Make salt crystals. With a cup of water and a string, you can grow your own salt crystals. The longer you hang the string in the water, the larger the crystals will be. Arrange these to form clumps of sparkly snow.

4. Paint the surface. You can use paint to make a surface look like it's been covered with snow. Dip an old brush into any type of white paint. Keep your thumb on the bristles, facing toward the surface. Rub the bristles gently to spray the paint onto the surface.

Don't use a nice new brush, since rubbing the bristles will damage them.

Tips.

To make a full winter scene, cover the base of a cardboard box with a flour and water "snow." Shape the snow into hills and valleys. Press a small mirror onto one of the valleys to make a pond, covering the edges with snow. Plant several twigs as trees, put the lid back on, and poke a viewing hole through the side of the box.

Continue tearing up cotton balls and gluing them down to make it look like fake snow and add a 3D effect.

November 29, 2019

how to making a craft penguin for children

How to Making a Craft Penguin for Children.

Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!

Steps.

1. Get one white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper. Since origami can be a bit difficult (and not very exciting) for younger children, the good old method of cutting and gluing construction paper might be more up their alley. This method of making a paper penguin calls for one white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper.

2. Trace an oval shape onto the black construction paper. To form the body of the penguin, have the child draw an oblong oval on the black construction paper with either a white crayon or a piece of chalk so that they can see the outline. One fun and silly way to help the child make the shape is to have him or her place their shoe on the sheet and trace the outline of it.

3. Cut out the black oval. Using a pair of scissors (safety scissors for younger children), have the child cut out the black oval from the construction paper. When it comes to the eyes later, you can have the child either draw them on the white paper or cut pupils out of the black paper. For the latter, you can have the child cut those out now as well.

4. Trace a smaller oval onto the white construction paper. You can now have the child trace the white portion of the belly on the white construction paper. You can find something of the relative oblong shape to let the child trace it again or simply allow them to do it freehand.

5. Glue the belly to the rest of the body. Once the child is done tracing the white oval, allow them to cut the shape out of the construction paper. Then use a glue stick to glue the tummy portion to the rest of the body. Glue it closer to the bottom of the body portion than the middle since the head should be above it.

6. Cut a small triangle out of the orange construction paper. To make the beak for the penguin, have the child cut a small triangle out of the orange construction paper. The beak doesn't have to be an exact triangle, so you can have the child trace it first or simply cut one out.

For very small children, the size of the beak might be too difficult for them to cut out, so you may have to help with this step.

7. Glue the beak to the penguin's face. You have two different options to glue the beak to the penguin's face. You can either glue the triangle flat with one of the points facing downward, or you can actually make a little fold on one of the flat sides and glue it at the tab, which will make the beak stick out from the penguin's face.

8. Make the penguin's eyes. As mentioned earlier, you can have the child draw eyes on the white construction paper, cut them out and glue those to the penguin, or you can also have the child cut the whites of the eyes from the white construction paper, then use the black construction paper to cut out the pupils.

A third option if the child is too young to cut out such small circles is to have some googly eyes on hand from a craft store or the craft section of a big-box store. Young kids may have an easier time using a glue stick to attach google eyes instead.

9. Let the child customize it. This makes an easy basic shape for the penguin, and then the child can have fun customizing it. If the child cuts out two really flattened ovals from the black paper, he or she can glue them to the side of the body as wings. If the child wants to make feet for the penguin, you can have them trace a leaf or something else with the slight contours to give them the webbed shape.

Things You'll Need.

Scissors.

One white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper.

Glue stick.

Googly eyes.

Crayons.

Desember 22, 2019