how to organize a craft room

How to Organize a Craft Room.

A craft room is a place where you want to let your creative energies take over. Organizing your craft room will take some work but the end result is worth the effort. You will want to start by gathering and sorting all of your available craft supplies. Then, find places to store these items where they will be easy to grab and use in the midst of a project. Use organizing as an opportunity to display those items that inspire you as well.

Method 1 Sorting Your Craft Supplies.

1. Gather all of your craft items. Grab a basket and walk throughout your living space grabbing any and all craft supplies and tools. Carry them into your designated craft room and place everything in the middle of the floor. Once you think that you’ve gotten it all, go back through one more time just to be certain. Make sure to open all of your drawers and cabinets, as craft supplies can often ‘hide.’

Likewise, go through your craft room and identify any objects or items that do not belong there and move them out. They may need to go in a ‘staging area’ in another room, so that you can concentrate your energy on your craft area.

2. Sort your supplies out according to item type. Look over your supply pile and begin to build smaller piles based upon different categories of supplies. For example, put all of your wrapping paper together. All fabrics should go together initially. After these first piles are finished, you can go back through them and narrow them even further according to size and color. For example, put all of the red wrapping paper together.

At this point your room may be in controlled chaos, so be careful walking around or you may slip on one of your piles. For that reason, try to keep other people out of the room as well, at least during this stage.

To keep you from feeling overwhelmed, bring an egg timer into the room and set it for 15-minutes. When the timer goes off, take a 5-minute break. Then, re-set the timer and start again. This will keep you motivated to work at a steady pace without burning out.

3. Decide what to donate. As you sort, identify items that are worth donating. Perhaps you have multiples of some items or maybe leftover supplies from projects that you’ve completed and moved on from. Make sure that whatever you donate is safe for another user. For example, don’t donate rusty scissors or any cracked glass items.

Various charity organizations, schools, and libraries will gladly accept donations of craft supplies as long as they are in good condition. This is a great opportunity to share your interest in crafting with other people.

Depending on the amount of items that you have, some charities will actually come to your house and pick them up for you. This may be a good opportunity to do organize other areas of your home as well.

4. Create a trash pile and dispose of it. As you sort, identify items that need to be thrown away. This could be items that you no longer find useful, but that aren’t suitable for donation due to condition or quantity. You should also trash any supplies that are no good anymore, such as dried out glue or frayed ribbons. Ask yourself if you’ve used the item in the past year and if you haven’t odds are it needs to be thrown away or donated.

Take the trash out after you’ve finished sorting the main pile. If you wait you are likely to leave it there and it will become an eyesore and will slow your organizing progress.

5. Repeat this process every few weeks. As life goes on, many of your supplies will likely wander out of your craft space once more. To keep your area tidy and useful for you, go through a sorting and cleaning process fairly often, especially after completing a major project.

Also, devote at least ten minutes after you finish working in your craft room for picking up and storing items in their new proper places. Devoting even this small amount of time can make a major difference in the long-term appearance of your craft room.

Method 2 Implementing a Storage System.

1. Store similar items together. You’ll want to keep your supplies together in their sorted piles as you place them in their designated storage spots and containers. Extra-small items will need to be placed in extra-small containers and will probably be grouped together for storage and then usage.

Keep an eye out for items that may appear similar but that have slightly different functions. These situations may require that you divide up your storage system even further. For example, you’ll want to divide your fabric scissors from your paper scissors.

2. Use plastic bins. These are the number one storage option when organizing a craft room. They come in a wide variety of sizes and are easy to stack. They also fit well within a cube shelf. You can see inside the clear bins, making it easy to find an item that you are looking for.

Depending on how you arrange your bins, you will want to purchase ones that open on the top or via a front panel. Look for lids that snap on tightly to avoid spilling your supplies.

Bins are also especially useful when working with messy items such as paints. In addition, they contain fumes from paints as well.

Make sure to purchase extra bins, and to leave space in the ones that you currently use, for new supplies that you may purchase.

3. Arrange items by color. Store and display your craft supplies according to the color wheel. This will create a quick way for you to find an item that you need for a particular project. It will also lead to beautiful displays of items within the room itself. For example, if you have a bunch of balls of yarn, sort them according to color (reds next to orange tints, etc.) and place them in a wooden cube bookcase for quick access and visual appeal.

4. Repurpose materials as storage containers. Almost any container that is sturdy with a lid can be reused as storage in your craft room. Try to think creatively and find jars, buckets, etc. that you find visually appealing already. They will be even more attractive when holding your supplies.

Here are a few unique ideas. To house smaller items such as sequins, use little plastic pill storage boxes that you can get at a pharmacy or grocery store. For colored beads, place them in a spice rack by color for ease of access and beauty. Small tins or colored buckets make a great storage option for pens, pencils, and paintbrushes.

For a more industrial look, grab a magnetic knife holder from your kitchen, attach it to the wall of your craft room, and use it to display your sharp cutting devices and scissors. This works best when positioned close to your standing work area.

Look at crafting sites and blogs online or buy inspirational craft books/magazines in order to find additional design ideas that may suit your particular space and taste.

5. Label everything. This is especially important when storing items in plastic bins or opaque containers. As you put away every storage container, make sure that it has a clear and visible label that you can see from the center of your craft room. For example, the bin with tape should say, “Tape-clear.”

You can get as fancy as you’d like with the labels. Some people prefer to use a standard label maker while others print directly from online templates. You can even make your own labels by hand.

6. Install shelving. You want to get the most use out of all surfaces within your room, so don’t ignore the walls. Look around your craft room and consider adding shelves to many of the open spaces on the walls. Think creatively about shelving and use materials such as recycled bookcase shelves or even old metal signs repurposed as shelves.

Method 3 Organizing Your Space for Creative Inspiration.

1. Locate your work table for ease of access. Get a sturdy table that you’d feel comfortable working on and place it in the most convenient space in the room, usually right in the middle. You want to be able to access it from all sides. Consider adding a chair or stool, unless you plan to stand all of the time when crafting.

In addition to your main table, you may want another one placed against the wall that will almost act like a workbench. You can hang items on the wall next to it for quick grabbing access.

2. Keep your favorite supplies close by. The materials that you are using for a current project, or those that you consistently rely upon, should be placed close to your table workspace. For example, if you are a seamstress, do not hide your best pair of cutting shears in a labeled storage bin in the closet.

3. Emphasize the natural light when possible. If you have a choice of room, pick a room with ample light sources. This will help to save you from eye strain as you work on your projects. You can also supplement the light by adding interesting (and bright) lamps. Hanging lamps often work the quite well as they are out of the way.

4. Create an inspiration board. Pin up photos or drawings to a fabric-covered poster board. Or, hang a magnetic board on your wall and attach items to it. Clip or write down quotes that you like and attach them to the board. Let it keep growing until you feel the need to remove some items into storage. This can be a fairly chaotic, but inspirational space, in an another organized room.

To add even more visual appeal, use colorful and creative stick-pins to attach items to the board. You can even go with pieces of patterned tape too.

5. Decorate with beautiful craft items. If you love your yarn, don’t hide it, display it. As you sort out items at the start of this process, look for those supplies that you find particularly visually stunning or exciting. Try to create spaces out in the open to store these items. For example, lengths of ribbon can be stored and displayed by hanging a peg board on the wall.

6. Create more access by manipulating your space. Don’t be afraid to use every inch of your craft room for some storage, display, or work purpose. You can paint inspirational quotes on the ceiling and hang items from it too. You can go vertical up the walls and increase your reach by employing footstools. Typically neglected areas, such as the backs of doors, can be put to good use with hanging storage pouches.

Increase your visibility in closet spaces by removing the doors and replacing them with a rod and curtain. When you first enter your room, sweep aside the curtain and you’ve got instant access and visibility into this space.

Tips.

You might want to do an inventory as you sort and organize, in order to determine what supplies you need to reorder.

Warnings.

Think about design and utility, but also safety. If you will have kids in your craft room, watch how you display sharp tools, etc.

November 25, 2019

20 common embroidery mistakes

20 common embroidery mistakes

Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.



Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.



Not Reading the Instructions

Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.



Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric

Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.



Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle

Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.



Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle

Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.



Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots

Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with ​a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.



Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness

Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.



Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread

Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.



Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen

It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.



Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils

Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.



Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted

When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.



Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame

Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.



Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction

Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).



Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing

Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.



Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting

Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.



Getting Your Project Dirty

Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.



Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type​​

If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.



Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching

You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.



Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly

Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.



Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight​​

Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.



Rushing to Fix a Mistake

If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.



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Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





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November 01, 2019

learn how to rubber stamp on stretch canvas

learn how to rubber stamp on stretch canvas

If you are looking for different surfaces to stamp onto then how about trying artist's canvases. These are great for making decor for the home and canvas blocks are all the rage right now. This is a project for stampers happy to experiment with different techniques to create interesting results.



What Are Artist's Canvases?

Artist's canvases are typically pieces of linen or cotton canvas on which artists paint. There are two types which are commonly used, canvas board or panels, where the canvas is stretched over a piece of board. This gives a firm flat surface for stamping.



The other type is stretched canvas. These are pieces of canvas that are stretched over a wooden frame which creates a taut surface. Canvases of either type are available in a wide range of sizes, from tiny canvases through to canvases that take up an entire wall. There are a variety of different qualities of canvas available and art stores will have the biggest range on offer.



About the Surface for Stamping

The canvas surface is woven and as such it is more textured than normal cardstock. This is one of the features of the canvas which makes it a little different and interesting to work on. Note that this texture will mean that some detail in a very intricate stamped image may get lost. You will also notice that some canvases are sold as primed, others are not primed. A primed surface means that it has been treated ready for painting. Both surfaces can be stamped on, however, the inks will be absorbed by the surface of the untreated canvas and may need heat sealing on treated canvas. It is best to experiment with both types and see which gives you the results you prefer.



Where to Buy

You will find stretch canvases for sale in artists supply stores. You will also find them in craft stores and even some stationery stores as well as online.



How to Use

While you can stamp onto canvas panels with relative ease, stamping on stretch canvas presents some significant challenges, not least the fact that the canvas surface, while taut, has some movement and therefore it is difficult to stamp onto in the traditional manner. However you can achieve good results by placing the inked stamp, image side up and carefully pressing the canvas, top side down, onto the stamp. Then carefully rub over the back of the canvas to make sure the inked image is transferred from the stamp to the canvas. To use this method, your stamp must be smaller than the recess at the back of the stretch canvas.



Ink for Stamping

Unlike stamping on canvas or fabric which is going to be worn or may need regular laundry care, canvas panels are purely decorative, therefore there is no need to use fabric ink when you stamp on canvas panels. The type of ink you use depends on the results you want to achieve, however, good thick pigment inks are a great choice although they may need sealing with a heat gun. Permanent ink such as Stazon and Ranger Archival inks are also a great choice.



Mistakes

While artist's canvases are more expensive than normal paper or cardstock, you don't need to worry that all is lost if you make a mistake. If you make a mistake, simply get some white acrylic paint and paint over the image. Leave the paint to dry and when it is dry, start again!

Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/



Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





craft handmade, 5 minute craft, craft game, craft paper, craft meaning, craft apk, craft ideas, craft indonesia, diy craft paper, diy craft tutorial, diy craft youtube, diy craft indonesia, diy craft wood, diy craft room, diy crafts to sell, diy creative

November 01, 2019

how to get ideas for crafts and projects

How to Get Ideas for Crafts and Projects.

Crafters, makers and builders create beautiful items out of raw materials. If you are a crafter that is unable to think of your next project, there are many ways that you can get new ideas. Crafting is one of the most popular subjects of blogs, magazines, classes and more, and its popularity has only risen as the Internet has become an easy way to share methods, techniques and projects. Depending upon how you like to learn, you can choose the most comfortable option. Select your specific area of crafting and search for the newest crafting projects using these avenues. Read more to find out how to get ideas for crafts and projects.

Steps.

1. Join a quilting bee, knitting circle or scrap booking club. Monthly meetings give the opportunities for exchanging ideas, showing off projects and doing group projects.

This is also a great way to meet people with similar interests and form lasting friendships. Crafting often allows you to talk to other people and learn their stories. Many rural communities have quilt guilds, knitting bees and craft circles that stay intact for decades.

2. Take night classes. Most cities have a group that is devoted to community education and gives a catalog of classes at a small fee. These can include anything from jewelry making to scrap booking to wood working.

Search online for "Lifelong learning classes" in your town or "Community education." Most classes happen once or twice a week over a period of months and they teach you new skills and give you many ideas for projects.

3. Get a subscription to a do-it-yourself magazine. Depending upon your preferences, there are many options. Magazine subscriptions can be bought from a website, Amazon, or a magazine prescription service, and it is a good idea to look for the best offer.

Good options for crafters include Martha Stewart Living, Card Maker, This Old House, American Style, Creative Knitting, Do-It-Yourself, Ready Made, American Craft, Crafts and Hobbies, Quilter, Paper Crafts, Creative Woodwork and Crafts, Car Craft. Knit'N Style, Sew News and Creating Keepsakes.

You may want to go to a supermarket and buy a few issues of each of these magazines to decide which one would be the best monthly subscription.

4. Get involved with Blogger, WordPress and other blogging platforms. Once you have a profile you can subscribe to craft blogs and check back whenever you need a fresh idea.

You may hear of craft bloggers referred to as "choggers." Start by checking out popular blogs, such as Bakerella, Cuteable, Dollar Store Crafts, Not Martha and the Pearl Bee. There are thousands of blogs to choose from, and they may also provide an email newsletter.

5. Sign up for email newsletters from magazines like Real Simple, Better Homes and Gardens and Ready Made. They will send you weekly or monthly issues depending upon your preferences, filled with new ideas from their crafters-in-residence.

6. Inquire at local stores if they do classes. In order to drum up business, stores often provide classes for a small fee as long as you buy the materials. For instance, a knitting business may teach their patrons how to use a new set of knitting needles in order to sell more sets.

7. Go online and simply search for patterns or templates. If you are looking for children's crafts, this is the fastest and least expensive option. If you cannot afford patterns for quilting and knitting, there are a number of free online templates that you can find using an Internet search and a printer.


Things You'll Need.

Community craft circles.

Craft magazines.

Craft blogs.

Email newsletters.

Printer.

November 25, 2019

how to organize craft supplies

How to Organize Craft Supplies.

If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.







Steps.



1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.

If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.

Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.



2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.

Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.

Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.

Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.



3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.

Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.

Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,



4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.

Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.

If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.

Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.



5. Keep on sorting.

Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.

Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.



6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.

Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.

For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.



7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.



8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.



9. Finished.





Tips.

Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.

Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.

Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.

Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.

Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.

Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.

Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.

Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.

Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.



Things You'll Need.

Craft supplies.

Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.

Paper to label the containers.

November 21, 2019

how to buy crafts from third world countries

How to Buy Crafts from Third World Countries.

Countries across the world craft objects, jewelry, furniture and more based on their own customs, culture and history. If you are interested in buying crafts from a country different from your own, then you have a number of options in your town and across the world. You may also choose to buy crafts from third world countries in order to support fair trade. Buying fair trade crafts helps to prevent low wages and unfair working conditions. There are some guidelines you should follow to ensure you are buying from a country that is benefiting from your purchase. You may need to do a little Internet research to ensure you are buying the crafts you prefer. Read on to find out how to buy crafts from third world countries.

Steps.

1. Research fair trade organizations. There are a number of non-profit companies that choose to keep consumers up to date about fair trade options. These include fairtraderesource.org, chfinternational.org, and fair trade organizations of specific countries, such as fta.org.au.

2. Decide if you want to buy crafts from a specific country. For example, you may admire the bamboo furniture from Malaysia or carvings from Africa. Search for a non-profit organization that tells you where to find shops that sell that country's goods.

For example, there is a Bangladesh cooperative that represents 60,000 artisans.

3. Go to eBay or Overstock. Both of these websites have acquired companies that previously sought to promote fair trade crafts. Ebay acquired World of Good, and you can buy handcrafted gifts from third world countries at worldofgood.ebay.com.

Overstock.com provides a fair trade site, called overstock.com/Worldstock-Fair-Trade. You can find anything from jewelry to furniture and more.

4. Search for local stores that specialize in fair trade crafts. Most mid to large-sized cities have a few fair trade stores. You can often find the stories behind the manufacturers of the crafts.

Ask the store how they acquired the crafts. The best way to tell if you are buying from a certified fair trade, third world craft carrier is to ask how the crafts were acquired.

5. Visit world craft museums, such as The Museum of Craft and Folk Art or the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco. These museums fill their gift shops with crafts that are well-crafted and distinctive. Check the museum websites for crafts that can be bought online.

6. Visit summer markets in your town. People who have emigrated from other countries often stock booths filled with their home country's crafts. Peruvian alpaca crafts are common at summer craft markets.

7. Visit a third world country and buy the crafts straight from the source. While this is the most expensive option, it is the best way to ensure you are buying straight from a craftsman. Research craft workshops where you can visit and buy directly after viewing the creation of the crafts.

For example, in St. Kitts there is a batik factory where the batiks are made and then sold. In Peru, you can visit an alpaca farm where yarn is created, died, woven and sold.


Things You'll Need.

Summer markets.

Internet research.

Fair trade shops.

Trip abroad.

November 26, 2019

how to make bottle penguins

How to Make Bottle Penguins.

There are lots of ways to recycle plastic soda bottles, and turning them into adorable penguins is one of them. With a little bit of paint, time, and creativity, you can turn 2 plastic soda bottles into an adorable penguin. If you have a lot of plastic soda bottles then you can create an entire penguin family!

Part 1 Assembling the Base.

1. Find 2 plastic soda bottles. The large, 2-liter (67.2-oz) bottles will work the best for this, but you can use smaller soda bottles too. Look for the kind that have the 4 bumps on the bottom. These bumps will make the feet and the hat.

The color of the bottles does not matter. You will be painting it.

2. Remove the labels and wash the bottles. Peel the labels off first, then wash the bottles inside-out with soap and warm water. Be sure to remove all sticker residue. Dry the bottles with a towel.

Wipe the bottles down with rubbing alcohol as well. This will remove any oils that might keep the paint from sticking. Let the bottles dry; this should only take a few seconds.

3. Cut the bottles in half and recycle the top sections. A craft blade will work the best for this, but you can do it with a sharp pair of scissors too. Young children should be supervised during this step.

If the cut edge is jagged, cut it smoother with a pair of scissors.

For a smaller penguin, cut the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) off of the first bottle, and cut the second bottle in half. The shorter half will make the bottom.

4. Tuck 1 bottle inside the other to make a capsule. Turn the bottles so that the cut edges are facing one another. Slide the first bottle into the second bottle by about 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). If the bottles won't fit inside one another, cut a 1⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) slit into 1 of the bottles first; place this edge on the inside.

Make sure that the 4 bumps on the top and bottom of the capsule line up.

5. Glue the bottles together, if desired. If the bottles are loose, glue them together with tacky glue or super glue. Pull the bottles apart, and paint the inside rim of 1 bottle with glue. Slide it over the other bottle.

Hot glue is not recommended because it is too bulky.

Alternatively, you can keep the bottles loose, and use the penguin as a gift box.

Part 2 Painting the Penguin.

1. Paint the entire capsule black, then let it dry. Take the capsule outside or into a well-ventilated area. Set it down on a sheet of newspaper, then coat it with black spray paint. Let the paint dry for 15 to 20 minutes, then turn the capsule over. Spray paint the bottom and let it dry completely.

Hold the can 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) from the capsule, and spray using a side-to-side motion.

If the paint is too thin, let it dry completely, then apply another coat of paint.

If you don't have spray paint, paint the capsule using black acrylic craft paint and a paintbrush.

2. Paint the penguin's face and belly white, then allow them to dry. Use a pointed paintbrush and white acrylic craft paint to outline the white face and belly of the penguin. Fill your outline in using a flat paintbrush. Let the paint dry, then add another layer if the first layer is too thin. Let the second layer dry too, if you added it.

Look at pictures of real or cartoon penguins to get ideas for the placement of the white parts.

Make sure that 2 of the bumps on the base of the capsule line up with the bottom of the penguin's belly. These are its feet!

If you are making a smaller penguin, use the shorter half to make the bottom.

3. Give the penguin a widow's peak, if desired. Use a pointed brush and black acrylic craft paint to draw a V-shape at the top of the penguin's white face. Fill the V-shape in with black paint so that it blends in with the body. For an even nicer finish, made the sides of the V-shape curved so that it looks like Mickey Mouse's widow's peak. Let the paint dry before moving on.

4. Paint 2 eyes and a beak using acrylic craft paint. Use a yellow upside-down triangle for the beak, and 2 black dots for the eyes. For a more realistic beak, paint a yellow or orange circle, then draw a horizontal black line going through the middle.

Look at pictures of cartoon penguins to get ideas.

You can also hot glue 2 buttons or 2 googly eyes for the eyes.

If you don't have yellow paint, cut a triangle out of yellow paper, and glue that on instead.

Part 3 Adding Optional Details.

1. Give your penguin character with lashes, eyebrows, and/or blush. You don't have to do any of these, but they can really give your penguin personality. Use a very thin brush for the lashes and/or eyebrows, or a paint pen. Use a larger pointed brush to apply pink paint for the blush.

If you want to give your penguin visible yellow feet, paint the 2 bumps in the front (under the white bellow) with yellow acrylic craft paint.

2. Paint the top half of the bottle to turn it into a hat. The 4 bumps on top of your penguin's head can easily turn into a hat. Paint a line around the penguin's head, just above the eyes, then fill in everything above that line. Use whatever color you want.

If you have a molded line just below the bumps, you can use that as a guide instead.

3. Let the hat dry, then add some details. You can make the hat look more hat-like by painting or drawing some stripes or spots onto it. Use a thin, pointed paintbrush and acrylic craft paint in a contrasting color to do this. Let the paint dry when you are done.

Use a paint pen for thin stripes or small dots.

4. Glue a pompom to the top of the hat, if desired. You can make the pompom yourself out of yarn, or you can buy it from the kids section of a craft store. Hot glue the pompom to the top of the hat, right between all 4 bumps.

Choose a pompom color that matches the designs on your hat. If you did not add designs, then use a contrasting color instead.

5. Tie ribbon around the neck to make a scarf. Find some ribbon that goes well with the hat. Wrap the ribbon around the penguin's neck, then cross the left end over the right end. Bring the left end up through the gap, then tighten it. This is just like starting to tie a pair of shoes!

Glue both ends of the ribbon to the penguin so that they stay down.

If you are turning this into a gift box, make sure that you keep the ribbon below the seam.

You can also cut a long, skinny strip out of felt, and use that instead of ribbon. Cut fringes into each end for additional charm.

Question : How do we make the eyes?
Answer : Cut out two small black circles, and two slightly larger yellow circles. Glue the black circles onto the yellow circles, and glue those onto the white face.

Question : We don't have to remove the bottle cap?
Answer : If you have removed the cap, you will have to tape or otherwise plug the hole on the top to "sculpt" the rounded top of the head on, so it is not recommended to remove the cap. However, taping or a cork replacement can be used.

Question : Can I use a plastic bottle?
Answer : Yes, but it may be hard to paint.

Tips.

If you want your penguin to have a pointy hat, discard 1 of the bottom halves and keep 1 of the top halves. Use the top half as the hat.

Use paintbrushes made from sable or taklon bristles. Do not use boar bristle, horsehair, or camelhair.

Spray the penguin with varnish or sealer, if desired. Do this after you finish painting, but before you add pompoms and scarves.

You can spray the capsule with paint primer first to help the paint stick better.

If you are worried about the paint chipping, spray the capsule with paint primer before you start painting.

Warnings.

Use low-temp hot glue guns to avoid blisters and burns. Do not use high-temp hot glue guns.

Things You'll Need.

2 plastic soda bottles, Craft blade, Black spray paint, Acrylic craft paint (white, yellow, and black).

Acrylic craft paint, 2 contrasting colors, Flat and pointed paintbrushes, Ribbon or felt, Pompom, Hot glue, Tacky glue or super glue.

Januari 23, 2020

how to make a knights helmet

How to Make a Knight's Helmet

Making your own knight's helmet is simple and only requires a few materials. The base of your helmet will be made of poster board, but you can add any type of material onto the poster board that you'd like, such as foam or metallic paper. By cutting out a rectangle and teardrop shape before attaching the two together, you'll have created your basic helmet. After that, you can add details like plumes or visors to make your knight's helmet exactly how you'd like it.

Part 1 Creating the Basic Helmet.

1. Cut out a section of poster board that’s 10 by 28 in (25 by 71 cm) long. This will be the section of your helmet that wraps around your face and head. Lay the poster board flat on the table and use a ruler to mark a rectangle that’s 10 in (25 cm) wide and 28 in (71 cm) long. Use scissors to cut out this section of poster board.

Don't worry if the rectangle section is too long, you can trim it later on.

Purchase poster board from your local craft or big box store.

2. Apply paint to the poster board if you’re not adding additional layers. If your helmet is just going to be made of poster board, feel free to paint it a solid color like silver or gold. Use spray paint for a quick application, or use a paint brush and acrylic paints to paint the helmet section using even strokes.

Use two coats to ensure the poster board is fully covered.

Let the paint dry completely before continuing to work with the poster board. This should take 1-2 hours.

3. Fold the poster board in half crosswise. Fold the poster board horizontally instead of vertically so that it opens like a book. With the poster board folded in half, its new dimensions should be 10 in (25 cm) by 14 in (36 cm). Once the poster board has an even crease, unfold it and lay it flat again.

4. Attach additional material to the helmet if desired. If you’re putting foam or colored paper on your helmet to make it textured or colorful, use an adhesive like glue or tape to attach the material to the poster board. Make sure you don’t cover up the fold you just created, lining up the paper or foam with the fold before attaching it.

Flip the poster board over so that any excess foam or paper is visible, cutting it off using scissors so the poster board and additional materials are in line with each other.

5. Form the top of the helmet in the shape of a teardrop. The top of the helmet is made by drawing a circle slightly larger than your head onto a piece of poster board (and any other materials you’re using with the poster board). Once the circle is drawn, make a dot a few inches away from the circle, connecting it to the circle using a ruler so that the shape now resembles a teardrop.

You can find templates online for the top of the helmet to make creating it easier.

Consider creating a double layer of poster board to make the top sturdier.

Use a plate to help you draw a perfect circle, if desired.

6. Create a slit in the helmet for the eyes. Hold the rectangle section of the helmet up to your face with the fold at your nose, figuring out where the eyes would go. Measure a rectangle that’s roughly 5 in (13 cm) wide and 4 in (10 cm) high—this will be your eye slit. Use scissors or a precision blade to remove the eye portion from the large rectangle.

Make sure the center of your eye slit is lined up with the fold in the helmet.

7. Tape the sides of the helmet together so it’s whole. Join the two ends of the rectangle together, putting it on your head or the other person’s head to see where you’ll need to attach it. Use tape or a stapler to hold the two ends together.

To hide the tape, put it on the inside of the helmet.

Masking tape or duct tape works best.

8. Slide the top section into the helmet to attach it. Rest the sides of the helmet on the table so it’s sitting up straight. Slide the top section of the helmet into the sides, lining the tip of the teardrop shape with the fold in the rectangle. Push it down until the top of the helmet is touching the table. This will make it easy to hot glue or tape the two pieces together from the inside.

If the top section is too big to fit into the helmet’s sides, trim it using scissors.

If the top section is too small for the helmet's sides, you can either redo it and make it larger, or use a thick tape to attach it to the helmet's sides anyway.

Be careful if you’re using hot glue, making sure not to touch the metal tip of the glue gun.


Part 2 Adding Embellishments.

1. Create a visor for your helmet for a movable portion. Draw your visor in any shape you’d like, making sure it has slits wide enough for you to see out of. Make your visor at least 5 in (13 cm) long so it covers the entire eye slit already cut out in your helmet, and fasten it to your helmet using paper fasteners.

Look online for visor templates that you just print and cut out, if desired.

2. Add a feather to your helmet to create a plume. Choose a feather that’s long and large in any color you’d like. Create a hole in the top of your helmet, picking a spot near the edge of the helmet so that it doesn’t poke the person who’s wearing it in the head. Use a knife or sharp pen to form the hole before sticking the feather inside and gluing it in place.

Feel free to add more than one feather to the helmet, or glue or tape several feathers together to create a larger plume.

You can find feathers at your local craft or big box store.

3. Cut strips of craft foam to add detail along the edges of your helmet. Measure strips of craft foam to be roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) thick. Cut each strip out and use glue to attach the strips around the edges of the helmet. This makes the helmet look more official and detailed.

Use colored craft foam to give your helmet more personality, or paint your foam gold or silver to match your helmet.

4. Draw a coat of arms or another object on your helmet to personalize it. Use a marker to draw designs on your helmet or a symbol such as a coat of arms. Look online for inspiration for different coats of arms to draw and draw them in pencil first, if possible, in case you mess up and need to erase.

Use a black marker to add details to your helmet, or use lots of different colors to make your helmet stand out.

Pencil may not show up on foam, but you can always print out a template of something you'd like to draw and trace it using pen.

November 25, 2019

how to make minnie mouse ears

How to Make Minnie Mouse Ears.

Mickey's sweetheart has the fashion sense to wear a bow in her ears, but Minnie mouse has very similar ears to those of her beau. In some special costumes, Minnie has also been known to wear a crown, a Santa hat, and other seasonal accents between her ears. The ears are always black, of course, and the bow usually red with white polka-dots, but you can choose your favorite patterns and colors to make the bow you place between your Minnie Mouse ears.

Part 1 Making the Ears.

1. Gather the material for making your mouse ears. You will need black felt to give your mouse ears color and texture. A cardboard core will give your fabric rigidity and form. If you don't have any cardboard, you might be able to layer several pieces of rigid construction paper together with glue as a substitute. The material you use for the ears should be stiff enough to keep it from flopping around loosely once attached to the headband and if you don’t have felt, you can paint or color the cardboard black.

Black felt, Cardboard, Rigid construction paper (optional), Household glue, Plain paper, Ribbon (10” (25 cm) long), Ribbon (3” (7 cm) long).

You should be able to purchase everything you need for this project at your local fabric or craft store.

2. Purchase a headband and tools, if necessary. The headband can be any color, but it should be at least ½" (1.27 cm) thick. You will eventually attach your mouse ears to the headband, so thicker headbands might give your mouse ears greater stability. Including a head band, you should also purchase the following tools.

Headband, Hot glue gun (and glue), Household glue, Pencil, Pipe cleaner. Scissors.

3. Make two identical paper circle templates. You should trace two circles on your paper with a pencil or your chalk. Each circle should be between 3” and 5” (7.6 and 12.7 cm) and have a ½” (1.27 cm) tab at the bottom of the circle. These templates will be used to assist you in outlining the dimensions of your mouse ears on both fabric and cardboard.

The tabs will on the bottom of your circles will be used to secure the ears and the headband together.

You might be able to use the base of a bowl to help you in drawing identical circles for both of your templates.

4. Outline your felt circles onto your felt. Place your paper template on top of the felt and trace the circle with chalk onto it. You could use a piece of tailor’s chalk, or even regular chalk in a pinch. This way, you can wipe any leftover chalk away with a damp cloth.

Make four felt circles for every pair of ears you make. You will need to glue felt to the front and back of your cardboard core to make your mouse ears uniformly black.

5. Cut your felt circles. Take your scissors and follow the chalk outlines you've drawn to cut free your felt circles free from the fabric.You can add some jazzy flair to your mouse ears by using zig-zaggy pinking shears.

Pinking shears will add a cute border to your fabric and prevent your fabric from becoming frayed.

6. Trace cardboard circles for your mouse ears. These cardboard circles will form the core of your mouse ears, making it possible for them stand up straight, just like Minnie's! Use your pencil or a piece of chalk to trace the circle template onto the cardboard.

You will need two cardboard circles for every pair of ears you make.

7. Cut out your cardboard circles. Using your scissors, follow the chalk or pencil outline you drew with your templates onto the cardboard. Be sure you don't cut off your tabs! These will be necessary to connect your mouse ears to the headband.

You may need to touch up your cardboard and felt circles/tabs to make them as close to identical as possible.

Compare and trim your felt and cardboard circles by holding the cardboard and felt pieces together in a stack. Then you can trim down any irregularities.

8. Glue the felt to the cardboard. Household glue should be sufficient to attach a piece of felt to the front and back of each cardboard circle/ear. Drizzle glue back and forth along the cardboard and press your felt into place. Press the felt to the glue firmly for five to ten minutes help it set.

To create the best bond between your glue and the felt, you may want to allow your glue to rest for 30 minutes to an hour.

Part 2 Attaching the Ears to the Headband.

1. Spread hot glue along the tabs of the ears. Regular household glue won’t hold up to wear and tear as well as hot glue. The special glue used in hot glue guns, however, is much more durable. It will create a firm bond between ear and headband.

You'll have to move quick after you apply your hot glue. The glue will dry quickly soon after application.

Hot glue fresh from the gun will be very hot. Be careful not to burn yourself.

2. Hot glue the tabs of your circles to the underside of the headband. Your circles should be at least 4” (10 cm) apart so that you have room for the bow that will go between the ears. You may want to mark your headband with your chalk where you'll be attaching the ears to prevent yourself from gluing them into the wrong place.

If your headband is flexible or will permit the use of staples, you could also use a hardy stapler to connect the tabs of your mouse ears to your headband.

3. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly. Playing with your mouse ears before the glue has completely dried could cause your mouse ears to come free of the headband. To ensure you don't have to re-glue any of your pieces together, you should allow your glue to firm for 30 minutes to an hour.

4. Style the ears into position. Your mouse ears might not stand straight up like Minnie Mouse's at first. To encourage your mouse ears to hold this position, fold both up and forward. The glued tabs will keep the ears in place.

Part 3 Creating the Bow.

1. Measure and cut a 10” (25 cm) length of ribbon or fabric. You can use either ribbon or fabric for your bow, although ribbon will likely be a little shinier and look more like the bow Minnie wears. In either case, it should be 5” to 8” (12.7 to 20.3 cm) wide. You will eventually gather this fabric around its middle, which will cause the sides to fan out. This will give your bow its shape.

Thicker cuts of fabric will create more bunching when you gather this piece around its middle, which will give your bow a fuller appearance.

2. Measure and cut a 3” (7.6 cm) gathering string. This is the piece you will use to gather the fabric around the middle of your 10" (25 cm) length of ribbon. You should use a similar kind of fabric to your 10" (25 cm) ribbon, but you could also add some pop to your design by using a contrasting color fabric.

For example, if you are using Minnie's traditional bow color, red with white polka-dots, you might choose a bold blue for your gathering string.

3. Lay the 10" (25 cm) piece of ribbon on a flat surface. Put the print side face down. You're going to want to glue your gathering string along the back of your bow, which will be the same as the opposite side of the pattern.

4. Fold the long ends your 10" (25 cm) ribbon toward its center. You'll want each side to overlap slightly at the center of your 10" (25 cm) length of ribbon. Fold one end at a time so that there is enough overlap to glue these side where the meet at the center of the ribbon.

5. Glue the folded inward ends at the overlap. It should only take a dab or two of hot glue or fabric glue to join the ends together firmly. Press the fabric firmly to create a stronger bond between the fabric and glue.

You should follow the directions on your glue to achieve the best bond. Some glues will set and cure faster than others. Generally, you should hold the glue firmly for one to five minutes for best results.

6. Arrange your ribbon into a bow shape. Use one hand to pinch your ribbon together toward its centermost point from the top and bottom edges. This will be easiest to do if you are working with a ribbon that is at least 5” (12.7 cm) wide.

Pinching your ribbon together tightly will cause the outside edges to flare out more dramatically.

7. Loosely wrap your gathering string around your bunched ribbon. The 3” (7.6 cm) piece of ribbon will hold the fabric of your bow in its flared position. Wind it around several times and then remove your fingers where you were pinching the bow in the middle.

Hold the ribbon with your free hand to make sure it doesn't come unwound or loose.

Wind the remaining length of your ribbon around the center tightly.

8. Glue the gathering string in place. Lift one end of the small piece of ribbon and apply a dab of hot glue or fabric glue. If using hot glue, you should be careful not to burn yourself by pressing on the fabric immediately after glue application.

To apply pressure to make the best seal between your hot glue and fabric, you might use a tool to prevent getting burned, like a paperweight, gloved hand, or tweezers.

Fabric glue and other cold glues should be held together firmly to encourage a strong bond. Press the glued piece of ribbon together. Hold this position for about 30 seconds to a minute.

Part 4 Attaching the Bow to the Headband.

1. Slip a pipe cleaner through a fold in your bow. The bunchings of your bow fabric should have created folds through which you can thread your pipe cleaner so that it passes under your glued gathering string.

If you find it difficult to feed your pipe cleaner through a fold and under your gathering string, you can always use glue to attach the pipe cleaner along the back of your bow.

A dab of hot glue onto the back of your gathering string should be enough to hold your pipe cleaner in place.

2. Cross one end of the piper cleaner over the other. Orient your pipe cleaner so it is equal length on both sides of your gathering string. Now cross the sides of your pipe cleaner at the midpoint over the front of your gathering string and add a twist.

This will prevent the pipe cleaner from slipping out of the bow while adding stability to the bow in general.

Experiment with different colored pipe cleaners to personalize your Minnie Mouse ears!

3. Secure your bow with the loose ends of the pipe cleaner. Center the bow between the ears. Then you're going to wrap each end of the pipe cleaner around opposite ends of your headband. Twine each side of the pipe cleaner down opposite ends of the headband until you go no further.

The ends of pipe cleaner can be pointy. To prevent the wearer from getting poked, you may want to turn these inward on your headband. The ends can also be taped to the headband as an extra precaution.

By attaching your bow to your mouse ears with a pipe cleaner, you'll be able to swap out different bows without having to make a new pair of mouse ears.

Twist ties can be used to reinforce your pipe cleaners if you find the pipe cleaner windings are not holding the bow in place well enough.

4. Add finishing touches and show off your mouse ears. Minnie, being a stylish mouse, would probably go ga-ga over some rhinestones, glitter, feathers, or other accents you might add to your mouse ears. Most of these can be attached with a small dab of hot glue. Once you've finished adding your finishing touches, you should show off your mouse ears to all your friends.

Tips.

Use a black felt tip marker to color white pipe cleaners if you don't want the white to show too much.

Warnings.

Hot glue emerges from the gun applicator at a very high temperature. Whenever using hot glue, you should follow the instructions that came with your glue gun and take care.

Things You’ll Need.

Ribbon (10” (25 cm) long), Ribbon (3” (7 cm) long), Black felt, Black felt tip marker, black crayon or paint (optional), Cardboard.

Chalk, Foam (optional), Headband, Hot glue gun, Household glue, Pipe cleaner, Plain paper, Scissors, Stiff construction paper (optional).

Desember 12, 2019

how to make fake snow

How to Make Fake Snow.

Artificial snow comes in handy for craft projects and when putting on a winter-themed event, such as a school play or the senior prom. Here are several methods for making fake snow that can top off art projects or enhance winter-themed events.

Method 1 Simple Fake Snow.

1. Tear up cotton. Take a cotton ball or cotton swab between your fingers and pull to stretch it out into wispy snow. Lay them out as a field of snow in craft projects, or reshape them into balls to make miniature snowmen.

2. Imitate falling snow with laundry soap flakes or instant potato flakes. Make a video of fluffy, falling snow by pouring this in front of the camera.

This also works as fallen snow. To make it more fancy, combine 4 cups (960mL) flakes, 1⅓ cup (320mL) liquid starch, several drops blue food coloring, and glitter.

3. Punch paper holes. Punch small holes from white paper and use the punched circles as snow. This works best when blown in front of a fan.

4. Add fake snow to snow globes. To refill a snow globe, pour in glycerine and small thermocol balls. You may use glitter or small beads instead of the thermocol.

5. Make a sparkly glaze for small craft projects. Mix ¼ cup (60mL) each of table salt and talcum powder. Spray the surface with spray-on craft glue or dab on white glue where you want the "snow" to stick. Sprinkle the sparkly mixture on the wet glue and allow to dry. Turn the project upside down to remove excess "snow."

6. Mix water with flour or baking soda. Start with white flour or baking soda. Add water one small spoonful at a time, mixing it up with a fork. Once you've formed a paste, cover the ground of a small winter scene. You can shape this into snowy hills and slopes with your hands. Sprinkle more flour over the top once finished.

Method 2 Realistic Fake Snow.

1. Combine sodium polyacrylate with water. Cut open a disposable diaper and remove the white granules; these are made from sodium polyacrylate. You can also buy it in powder or granulated form from the soil treatment section of a garden supply store. Powder makes fluffy "snow," while the granules create slushy "snow." Mix in water little by little until you obtain the desired consistency.

This may look more realistic if you put it in the freezer.

If it dries out, just add more water. If you want to keep it dry, reduce the amount of water and add salt.

2. Blend crushed ice and white paint. This melts quickly, so it will only work in a cold room. Pour the crushed ice in a big bowl, then stir in white paint. Add water slowly until the snow reaches the desired consistency.

3. Make salt crystals. With a cup of water and a string, you can grow your own salt crystals. The longer you hang the string in the water, the larger the crystals will be. Arrange these to form clumps of sparkly snow.

4. Paint the surface. You can use paint to make a surface look like it's been covered with snow. Dip an old brush into any type of white paint. Keep your thumb on the bristles, facing toward the surface. Rub the bristles gently to spray the paint onto the surface.

Don't use a nice new brush, since rubbing the bristles will damage them.

Tips.

To make a full winter scene, cover the base of a cardboard box with a flour and water "snow." Shape the snow into hills and valleys. Press a small mirror onto one of the valleys to make a pond, covering the edges with snow. Plant several twigs as trees, put the lid back on, and poke a viewing hole through the side of the box.

Continue tearing up cotton balls and gluing them down to make it look like fake snow and add a 3D effect.

November 29, 2019

how to make a beaded lizard

How to Make a Beaded Lizard.

Here's a cute, fun, and creative afternoon activity that you can make and attach to your backpack or even wear as a necklace. All it takes are some beads, string, and a keychain clasp.

Method 1 Preparing the Body.

1. Cut a roughly three-foot length of 1/8th-inch ribbon or string. The longer the string, the longer the lizard. Three feet is a good start.

2. Fold the string in half so that the two ends meet. This will lead to a loop at the other end of the string.

3. Take the loop and run it through the bottom of a keychain clasp. Really, any sort of clasp will work. All you need to do is create a slipknot around the clasp. You should have your loop on one side of the clasp, and the long excess string on the other.

4. Pull the ends through the loop to create a slipknot. Reach into the loop and pull the strings through, pulling until tight. This creates a simple slip knot that will hold the lizard in place as you work.

5. Tape the clasp down to the table so that the strings drape towards you. Make sure the strings are not tangled up, and that you can clearly tell which string is the left string and which one is the right.

Method 2 Building the Head and Neck.

1. Add two beads to the leftmost string. These beads will be your body, so choose the color you want for the bulk of the lizard. Don't feed the beads all the way down; just let them dangle a bit towards the end. In this video, the body will be yellow.

2. Thread the right string through the beads the opposite way. If the leftmost string enters through the left, thread this one through from the right. You'll have both string going through the center of the two beads in opposite directions.

3. Pull both ends of the strings until the beads slide up to the keychain clasp. Lightly pull on the opposite ends to force the beads up to the top.

4. Feed three more beads -- two eyes and a body color -- onto the leftmost string. You want to sandwich the body bead with the two eye colors. Here, the eyes are green and the body is yellow, so you'd put them on as green, yellow, green.

5. Slide the right side through the beads and pull both ends until the beads slide to the top. Repeat the same procedure as you did with the first two body beads. Slide the three beads on the left string, thread the right through them, then pull both strings to move the beads to the top.

6. Repeat the whole procedure with two more beads to make the "neck." Take two body colors, thread them on the left, slide the right through, and pull tight. This is your neck.

7. Take three more body beads and pull them through. Again, it is the same procedure. For a little flair, you can use a different color for the center bead here, allowing you to put a "stripe" on your lizard's back.

These three beads are the beginning of the "back." You'll need to start the limbs after this.

Method 3 Building The Legs.

1. Set aside two beads for the body and three other beads for the feet. Here, the body beads are still yellow and the feet will be black.

2. Thread the two body beads on the left string and slide them down close to the body. Push them almost all the way to the body. These are your legs.

3. Slide the black beads on, just above the legs. Keep them close, but separated.

4. Thread the end of the left string through the two beads for the leg. You just want to thread through your two yellow beads, not the three for the feet.

5. Pull the string tight to pull everything together, adjusting slightly as necessary. Use your fingers to make sure nothing bunches up. This is your first leg! Note how it only requires the left string to make -- you should never touch the right one when making the left leg.

6. Repeat the process with the other string to make the right leg. Once done, it is time to move back to the body.

Method 4 Finishing the Body and Tail.

1. Build three more body rows identically to the first. Put three beads on the left string, remembering to alternate them if you're doing a two-colored body. Then slide the right string in the opposite direction as the left and pull the two ends to slide the beads up to the body.

You need three more rows before starting the feet again.

2. Make two more legs the same way you made the first two. After the three lengths of the body, add two more legs. The process is identical.

3. Add two more body beads, to make the base of the tail (identical to the neck). You should have the process down pat by now. Two beads on the left string, feed through the right string and pull tight.

4. Slide the first tail bead on the left string, thread the right string through the opposite side, and pull. The tail is simply the same process as the body, but its only one bead per layer. You can choose any color you want. Alternating looks great too, and you can use as many beads as you want for the length of tail you like.

5. Tie a double knot at the end of the tail to keep the beads in place. You can tie any knot you want, but a simple square knot will do just fine. You can use the knot used to tie your shoes as well, but make sure you double knot it.

Question : What can I do if I have lost 2 beads?
Answer : A good way to solve this without doing much damage would be to shorten the tail by two beads.

Question : What size beads should I use?
Answer : The best beads to use are pony beads. Pony beads measure about 6 by 9 millimeters, and the hole is about 4 millimeters.

Question : How can I give the lizard a longer nose?
Answer : After you secure the string to the clasp, you could first tie one bead on the string. Then you would make the lizard as explained in the article, which would give it a slightly longer nose.

Question : Can I use thread instead of string or ribbon?
Answer : Yes, you can use thread instead of string or ribbon, but I would just make sure your thread is thick enough that it won't break.

Question : What do I do if I run out of ribbon in the middle?
Answer : Undo your previous row of beads and attach new ribbon. Tie as small of a knot as possible. As a general rule, I use one inch of material per bead.

Question : What are the best beads to use for making a beaded lizard?
Answer : The best beads to use for making this are horse beads. This is because they are thick and are durable, you can buy them at any craft store or bead store.

Things You'll Need : Pony Beads (about 60), 1/8th-inch wide ribbon, Scissors, Beads, Tape, Nice flat surface (recommended).

Tips : You can mix and match colors and lengths with ease once you get used to the process. For a bigger lizard, add one bead to each smaller section (legs, head, neck) and two beads to each body section. This will keep the proportions roughly the same.

Januari 16, 2020

how to make colored salt

How to Make Colored Salt.

Colored salt is used for art and craft, for decoration, for teaching skills with writing or drawing, and for making rangoli for Diwali. It's easy to make, and depending on the exact items in your craft or kitchen cupboard, you might even be able to make it without buying a thing.







Coloring Salt with Paint.



Fill a container with salt. A jug or pitcher, a deep bowl, a plastic food container, etc. will all suffice.



Squeeze a little tempera paint into the salt.



Mix with a spoon or other item. Stir until the paint is evenly distributed through the salt.



Let stand overnight to dry.

Make as many more colors as you need for your project. That way, they'll all be ready at the same time.



Test before using. Check that the salt has dried before using in your craft, rangoli, teaching, etc. projects.









Coloring Salt with Liquid Food Coloring.



Use liquid food coloring for this method. Choose a color or colors that you wish to work with.



Tip the salt into a resealable bag.



Add the liquid food coloring to the salt. It's recommended that you do this gradually, a drop at a time, so that you can intensify the color as needed and stop when you're happy with it. The more drops added, the more intense the color.



Carefully press the air from the resealable bag without losing the salt. Seal. Wait for around a minute before proceeding, to give the salt time to settle.

Image titled Make Colored Salt Step 10

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Press down on the bag again and again. This will move the coloring around all of the salt. Knead until you can see that the color has permeated all of the salt in the plastic bag.



Done. The salt is now ready for use. If you see any salt that is damp, let it dry before use, by allowing air into the bag and waiting a few hours more.

If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.







Coloring Salt with Gel Food Coloring.



For this method, use gel-based food coloring. You should find it dries instantly and won't leave any liquid, which may be the case with liquid food coloring.



Tip the salt into a resealable bag.



Add the gel food coloring. Transfer the gel using an implement such as a wooden or metallic skewer tip, the end of a butter knife or a toothpick. Only use a small amount at a time, adding a little more if you're not yet satisfied with the color. Gel coloring is fairly vibrant with just a little amount, so you don't want to overdo it.



Carefully press down on the bag to remove excess air. Seal tightly.



Shake or knead the color throughout the bag. Ensure that all of the salt is evenly colored.



Done. Given that this is gel, the colored salt should be ready to use immediately.

If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.







Coloring Salt with Chalk.



Choose a chalk color that you wish to use. Chalks come in a range of pastel and bright colors, depending on where you buy them from. Check art, craft or upmarket toy stores for a wider variety than you might find in traditional stationery or dollar stores.



Cover the workspace with a large sheet of paper.



Pour the salt onto the paper. The amount of salt depends on the amount you need.



Place the piece of chalk on its side, on the salt. Roll the chalk back and forth over the salt on the paper. As you do this, the color from the chalk will color the salt. Keep rolling until you're happy with the color.



Using the paper as a funnel, pour the chalk-colored salt into a resealable bag or a storage container.



Done. The colored salt is now ready to use, or you can store it until needed.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.



Tips.

A rolling pin can be used to distribute the color for the resealable bag color-distributing methods; ensure that there is no air in the bag and roll it up and down until the salt is evenly colored.

Keep colored salt in an airtight container when not in use. Make sure that the lid is on firmly, to prevent spilling it.

For a bath treat, add some essential oil drops as well as the colorant.

If making a lot of colored salt in varied colors, use clean food containers to free up the usual kitchen containers for your cooking and eating.



Warnings.

While these crafts are non-toxic, they are very messy. As such, they are best either supervised carefully or done by older children and adults.



Things You'll Need.

Salt (sea salt, rock salt, table salt, Epsom salts, etc. are all fine to use).

Container for holding salt or a resealable bag.

Colorant.

Stirring implement (such as a spoon, a skewer, a chopstick, etc.).

Storage container (if relevant).

November 17, 2019

how to make a ball

How to Make a Ball.

Balls provide endless entertainment for kids and adults alike, so make your own if you want a fun toy to play with this weekend. But there are balls for other occasions, too. If you’re having a rough week, for instance, create a stress ball to squeeze when you just want to scream. Or get creative and make balls out of things like rubber bands, fabric, and even cheese!

Method 1 Making a Bouncy Ball.

1. Combine school glue, cornstarch, and any add-ins in a bowl. Stir together the 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch until they’re thoroughly combined, using a spoon or wooden stick. If you want to add any extras, like food coloring or glitter, do so now.

You can use either white or clear school glue. If you use white glue and don’t add any coloring, your ball will be white.

Fun Add-Ins for Your Bouncy Ball

Sprinkle in glitter for a little extra sparkle.

Squeeze in a few drops of food coloring to make a ball in your favorite hue.

Stir glow in the dark paint into the glue for a ball that can be used at night.

Swirl 2 colors of food coloring together if you want a multi-colored masterpiece.

2. Stir warm water and Borax together in a separate bowl. Mix 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water and 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax until the Borax is completely dissolved. Stir vigorously to ensure there are no clumps of powder left in the bowl.

Heat the water in the microwave or on the stove until it’s warm to the touch. It shouldn’t be boiling.

You can find Borax in the laundry aisle of a store.

Borax is safe to use, but it's poisonous if ingested in large quantities. If you or your child get it in your eyes or mouth, contact poison control immediately.

3. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of the Borax mixture in the bowl with the glue. Do not stir the ingredients together when you add them. Simply pour the Borax and water into the other bowl containing the glue and cornstarch.

Set aside the remaining Borax mixture if you plan on making more balls.

4. Let the mixture sit for 15 seconds. This allows time for the Borax to react with the glue, making the polymers of the glue link together which will create the ball shape. If you start stirring right away, the bouncy ball may not form or harden properly.

Set a kitchen timer or use the clock app on your phone to keep track of the time.

5. Use a spoon to combine the ingredients until they’re too thick to stir. Within 1 to 2 minutes, the mixture will thicken. Stir vigorously while the mixture is still liquid to make sure the ingredients are blended well.

Choose a sturdy spoon, like a metal or thick plastic one. Something flimsy, like a plastic spoon, will likely break off in the goo.

If you’ve made homemade slime with Borax, this process is very similar.

6. Remove the mixture and roll it between your hands to form a ball. Once the mixture is too thick for your spoon or stick, pull it out of the bowl and place it between your palms. Roll it around by moving your hands in circular motions until the ball is no longer sticky.

The more you handle the ball, the more firm it will become.

If you’re having trouble getting rid of the stickiness, dip the ball in the Borax water, then roll it a little more. This should remove any tacky texture.

7. Let the ball harden for about 10 to 20 minutes before you use it. This dries the ball a little more, so that it’s extra bouncy. If the ball starts to flatten while it sits, simply roll it back into shape when you’re ready to play with it.

Once you’re done playing, store the ball in an airtight container to prevent it from drying out. Keep it in a cool, dark place, like the pantry.

If stored properly, your ball could last for up to 6 months. It won’t go bad, but it will dry out eventually.

To make more bouncy balls, mix up another batch of glue and cornstarch and use some of the leftover Borax and water mixture.

Things You'll Need.

2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water, 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch.

Spoon or wooden stick, 2 cups or small bowls, Food coloring or other add-ins (optional), Airtight container (optional).

Method 2 Creating a Paper Soccer Ball.

1. Trace 20 hexagons on white paper, then cut them out. Draw your hexagons on the paper with a template, making each side the exact same length. Use scissors to carefully cut along the traced shapes, then set them aside.

If you want a life-sized soccer ball, make the edges 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.

To make a template, use a ruler to draw the hexagon shape on a piece of cardboard. Cut it out and trace around it with a pencil to make each paper hexagon.

Cardstock is the best type of paper to use for this craft. It’s sturdy enough to hold the shape of the ball yet still easy to fold.

2. Trace and cut out 12 black pentagons with sides the same length. The edges of the black and white pieces need to be equal so that they fit together properly. Use a template to draw your pentagon shapes, then cut them out with scissors.

For example, if you’re creating a life-sized ball, make your pentagon sides 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.

You can use a different color paper instead of black, or get creative and make a multi-colored ball with a variety of shades.

Cut a pentagon template out of cardboard to trace on the black paper so that the pieces are all equal size.

3. Fold up a thin border around each hexagon and pentagon. This edge will allow you to build your ball seamlessly, so there are no gaps between pieces. You only want to fold enough of each edge to have a place to apply glue or tape. Keep the border size equal on each piece so they all remain the same size after folding.

To fold the same border on each piece, trace the border before you fold, using a ruler to ensure each edge is an equal width.

Use a straight edge, like a ruler, to help you fold the edges in a perfect line.

If the edges are crooked, re-fold them. They have to be straight for your ball to be the right shape.

To make folding easier, snip off the corners of your border before you fold. This allows you to fold the edges up without dealing with corners that crumple up or stick out.

4. Apply glue or tape to the folded edges of each piece. This is how you’ll stick the the pieces together to form the ball. Swipe glue on each of the edges of all the hexagons and pentagons. You can also use a strip of tape on the edges instead.

A glue stick will work better than liquid glue to prevent the paper edges from getting soggy.

If you are slow at putting the ball together, you may want to apply the glue as you go, rather than all at once. Otherwise, it will dry out on the final pieces by the time you get to them.

5. Attach 5 white hexagons to 1 black pentagon. On a standard soccer ball, each black piece is completely surrounded by white pieces. Press 1 white hexagon onto each edge of a black pentagon. Hold the edges together until the glue dries.

If you’re using a glue stick, the glue will dry almost instantly. Wait about 5 to 10 seconds while pressing the edges against one another.

6. Continue gluing the pieces together in this pattern, forming the soccer ball. On the other edges of the white hexagons that you attached to the original pentagon, glue more black pentagons. Don’t forget to glue the white edges that touch each other, too. Once you connect all of the pieces, you’ll have a ball shape.

A black piece should never touch another black piece. However, white edges will touch other white edges.

If you’re having trouble visualizing the pattern, look up an image of a soccer ball online as a guide.

You can stuff the ball with shreds of paper if you want to create a fuller shape.

Things You'll Need.

Black and white sheets of paper, Scissors, Cardboard.

Pencil or pen, Glue stick or tape, Homemade Stress Ball, 12 in (30 cm) latex balloon.

Method 3 Using Play Dough for a Homemade Stress Ball.

1. Use your hands to roll play dough into a long shape. Place a pile of play dough on a flat surface, then gently roll it out with the palms of your hands. This should form what looks like a snake.

It doesn’t matter what color play dough you use, since it will just be going inside the balloon.

Buy pre-made play dough or make your own at home.

If you buy play dough, use one 5 oz (140 g) container per balloon.

2. Insert the play dough into the balloon. Stretch the neck of the balloon open as wide as you can, then stuff the play dough snake into the balloon. The play dough should fill the balloon just to the base of the neck.

If there is a lot of empty space in the balloon, add more play dough.

Stretch out the neck of the balloon before you insert the play dough to loosen it up.

This step is easier if you have someone else hold the balloon open while you put the play dough inside.

3. Tie a knot in the neck at the top of the balloon to secure it. This will keep all of the play dough inside the balloon. Wrap the neck around your finger to make your knot, tying it as tightly as possible.

If you want extra protection, you can place your original balloon inside another empty balloon before tying it shut. This adds a double layer in case you poke a hole.

You can decorate your stress balls with permanent markers if you’d like. For example, you could draw a funny face or write a calming phrase, like “just breathe.”

Things You'll Need.

Permanent marker (optional).

Method 4 Forming Other Types of Balls.

1. Build a rubber band ball for a creative way to store supplies. Instead of tossing your rubber bands in a drawer, keep them together in 1 big ball. Fold up a thick rubber band to form the center, then begin wrapping all of other bands around it. Criss-cross directions often to round out the ball.

You can also wrap your bands around a bouncy ball or crumpled-up piece of paper for a larger ball.

Start with smaller rubber bands, then add the larger ones as the ball gets bigger.

2. Sew a fabric ball if you want a soft toy for kids or pets. Young children, particularly babies, could get injured by hard rubber balls. Instead, stitch together a ball out of strips of fabric, then stuff it with polyfill for a plush feel or use dried beans for a bean bag texture.

This also makes a great pet toy for dogs to chew on or for cats to bat around. If the ball is for a pet, pick a durable fabric like vinyl or nylon and keep your pet in sight as it plays with the ball.

You can use a sewing machine to make your ball or sew it by hand.

Cotton is ideal for kids’ toys since it’s a long-lasting and soft fabric that’s easy to wash.

3. Use ice to make a ball for a unique cocktail add-in. Not only do ice spheres look much cooler than regular cubes floating in your drink, they also melt slower, so your beverage doesn't get watered-down as quickly. Fill a silicone ice ball mold with water, then place it in the freezer for at least 6 hours, or until the balls have set and hardened.

For extra flair and flavor, add things like fresh herbs or edible flowers into the water in the mold before it freezes.

You can buy ice ball molds from a kitchen store or online retailer.

4. Make a cheese ball if you’re having people over for dinner or a party. When it’s your turn to play host or hostess, whip up a cheese ball as an impressive appetizer. Mix together cream cheese and other soft cheeses, shape it into a ball, then chill it in the refrigerator. Roll it in chopped nuts and other garnishes before serving.

You can substitute mascarpone, neufchatel, or goat cheese for the cream cheese if you’d like.

Pair any type of softer cheese with the creamy base, depending on your taste preferences. As long as it’s not a dry, crumbly cheese like parmesan, it will work.

Serve a cheese ball with finger foods for dipping, like crackers, pretzels, or raw veggies.

Warnings.

Borax is poisonous. Get help immediately if you accidentally ingest it or get it in your eyes.

Never let young children handle Borax without close supervision.

Januari 20, 2020

how to make a paper bag turkey

How to Make a Paper Bag Turkey.

Looking for a fun way to celebrate this holiday season? Whether you’re crafting homemade decorations for Thanksgiving dinner or just want to get into the spirit of autumn, making a turkey from ordinary paper bags is a quick, simple and creative activity that is sure to please children and adults alike. This project only requires a few simple materials and will add a bit of thrifty Fall flair wherever it’s displayed.

Part 1 Making the Turkey.

1. Gather your materials. For this project, you’ll need only need a handful of basic items—3 brown paper bags (1 large paper grocery bag and 2 smaller standard paper bags), 1 sheet of white 8 ½” x 11” typing paper, a few sheets of newspaper, a pair of scissors and a hot glue gun or some craft glue. Any additional materials will be up to you, depending on how elaborate you want the presentation of your finished turkey to be.

Your turkey will be made of just three easy pieces: one big bag for the body, and the two smaller bags to serve as the “drumsticks.”

Making a paper bag turkey only takes a few minutes from start to finish, leaving you with plenty of time in your day to finish playing, decorating or tackling other crafting projects.

2. Form the body of the turkey. Take the large paper bag and fill it ¾ full with crumpled newspaper. This will help fill out the body, giving it a plump appearance and preventing it from collapsing once it's ready to be displayed. After the bag has been stuffed, fold the corners down diagonally and glue them in place. Tuck the folded tab down one more time and glue it to the underside of the turkey.

Shape the body of the turkey by hand until it’s smooth and round. Be sure to work out any square edges of creases from the original bag.

Be careful not to tear the bag while sealing or shaping it.

3. Shape the drumsticks. Grab the two smaller paper bags—you’ll be using these to craft the “drumsticks” of the turkey. Make one hand into a fist and stick it into each bag, molding the opening of the bag around your wrist. This will give the bag its recognizable drumstick shape. Remove your hand from the bag and fill the rounded end with newspaper. Twist the opening of each bag shut and secure it with a dab of glue.

Like the body of the turkey, the drumsticks will need to be filled in order to hold their shape.

4. Cut the booties for the drumsticks. Your drumsticks aren’t complete until they’re dressed with a pair of frilly white booties, like a traditional Thanksgiving turkey. Cut your sheet of typing paper in half lengthwise, then fold each piece in half, again lengthwise. Use your scissors to make a series of cuts in the open edge of the paper to create a neat fringe.

Try to make your cuts about ¼ inch apart.

Your cuts only need to be about half the width of the paper.

5. Put it all together. Wrap a paper bootie around the end of each drumstick and secure them with glue. Then, place the drumsticks on either side of the sealed end of the turkey and glue them down. That’s it! The result is a quirky, lifelike baked bird that you might just mistake for the real thing.

Attach the drumsticks to the tapered sides of the body where you folded down the edges of the big bag. This will give the turkey a more realistic look.

The different parts of the turkey will have a little weight to them once they’ve been filled. Use enough glue to make sure that everything holds.

Part 2 Finding Creative Ways to Present Your Turkey.

1. Put it on a platter. Arrange your paper bag turkey on a serving platter over a bed of parsley or tissue paper garnish. Surround the turkey with fallen leaves for a splash of vibrant color. With the right details, you’ll have a mouthwatering craft turkey worthy of a fantasy feast to show off to your friends and family.

If you don't have a real serving platter lying around, make your own out of cardboard, construction paper, and colored markers.

Make sure to let everyone, especially small children, know that your paper turkey is not for eating.

2. Add colorful designs. Before you fill the paper bags, decorate the outsides for a more artistic, funky finish. Use crayons, markers, washable paint, stickers or glitter and customize your turkey with polka dots, swirls or dazzling patterns using your favorite colors. Grab a friend, sibling, parent or child to decorate your turkey with, then compare and display them together when you’re done.

If you’re using paint or a felt-tip marker that might saturate the paper bags, allow them to dry before stuffing or shaping them.

When making paper turkeys with your kids or students, have them write down one thing they’re thankful for somewhere on the big bag.

3. Fill it with “stuffing.” For an unexpected tasty twist, ditch the newspaper and fill your turkey with popcorn, candy or other easy-to-eat finger foods instead. You can then have someone “carve” the turkey by cutting a flap in the top and have something to snack on until the main course is served. This imaginative serving style is sure to be a hit at holiday parties!

Popcorn makes a simple stuffing because it’s light and takes up a lot of space, but you could use just about any snack food, like chips, pretzels or chocolates, to fill your turkey.

Try filling the drumsticks separately with caramel corn to make “dark meat.”[6]

4. Put your paper bag turkey on display. In addition to being a fun and easy project to do with your friends or loved ones, your paper turkey will make a unique arrangement for the coffee table, arts and crafts desk or kitchen counter. It will look especially good surrounded by other festive Fall decorations. Best of all, you can store the playful papercraft away or simply make a new one the next time the holiday season rolls around.

A paper bag turkey will fit nicely with other homemade holiday decorations, such as hand turkey cutouts, popsicle stick snowflakes, and construction paper pumpkins.

Tips.

This will make a great activity for parents and teachers to do alongside their children or students.

If the paper bags you’re using have any logos, writings or markings on them, carefully turn them inside out before you begin crafting.

Line the inside of your turkey with wax or parchment paper to prevent splotchy grease stains if you plan on filling it with buttered popcorn.

Make sure you have enough of whatever food item you choose to fill the large bag.

Hot glue is preferable to other adhesives because it dries quickly and creates a strong, lasting hold.

Warnings.

Take caution when working with the hot glue and scissors. Kids should ask an adult for help with the cutting and gluing portions of the project.

Staples should be avoided, as there's no way to use them to secure the different parts of the turkey without mashing them.

Things You'll Need.

3 brown paper bags (1 large and 2 small), 1 sheet white typing paper, A few sheets of crumpled newspaper.

Scissors, Hot glue or craft glue, Popcorn or other small snack foods (optional), Various decorating supplies (optional).

Desember 14, 2019