how to create clay animals

How to Create Clay Animals.

Making clay animals is a great way to turn a dull afternoon into an exciting craft day. With a little effort and a lot of imagination, you can turn your clay dough into a jungle. Once you've mastered animal how-tos, you can create creatures of all colors, shapes, and sizes. All you need is some clay, some around-the-house tools, and a love of animals to create your own mini zoo.



Method 1 Rolling Clay Snakes.

1. Roll a piece of clay between your fingers. Choose your favorite color or just a color you think would make a good snake. Put a piece of clay between your hands and roll it back and forth until you make a long, log shape. You can continue rolling until the snake is as thin or thick as you'd like.

Go as quickly or slowly as you like, depending on how closely you want to monitor your clay log's length.

Be careful not to make your clay log too thin, as it will progressively get more delicate the thinner it gets.

2. Flatten one end of the snake for a head. Poke two holes into the head with a toothpick for eyes, or add a pair of small googly eyes. You can also roll two tiny clay balls between your finger and your thumb and attach them for eyes, if you have neither a toothpick nor googly eyes available.

3. Make a tiny clay tongue. For a tongue, grab a piece of red or pink clay and place it between your finger and thumb. Roll it into a log shape, much like how you rolled your snake but on a smaller scale. Split your log in two at one end to create a forked tongue, and attach it to the end of your snake's mouth.

4. Add patterns to its skin, like polka dots or stripes. For polka dots, flatten tiny clay balls with your finger and thumb and attach them to your snakes body. You can make stripes by rolling tiny clay logs and spacing them across the length of your snake.



Method 2 Making Clay Snails.

1. Choose two different colors of clay. Choose colors that stand out next to each other and do not clash. Red and pink, for example, might not be a great idea. Red and orange, though, can make a pleasant sunset-like effect.

Complementary colors, or colors opposite from each other on the color wheel, look especially bright when next to each other.

2. Roll one color into a log. This will be your snail's shell. Continue rolling the clay until it is long and thin. Make the log as long as possible to make a shell with a detailed spiral. Stop rolling when the log is thin enough to fold in on itself but thick enough that it won't break apart.

You might have to try a few times before you find the right thickness for your shell.

3. Fold the log in on itself. Once you've achieved a good length for your shell, fold the log into a spiral. Start at one end of the clay, which will become the middle of your spiral, and keep folding until your clay shape resembles a cinnamon roll. Set the spiral aside after you finish so you can attach it to the body later.

4. Roll a small log to be the snail’s body. This will be your snail's body, so make it thicker and shorter than your snail shell. After you're done rolling, attach the snail's shell into the back of its body. All you have left to add now are facial details.

5. Add antennae and a face. Roll two small logs for the antennae and attach them to the top of your snail's body. Then, poke two holes with your toothpick for the eyes (or add two small googly eyes).

For a mouth, roll another small log and curve it into a smile. Attach it below the snail's eyes.



Method 3 Sculpting Clay Dogs.

1. Start with a thick oval-shaped ball. This will be your dog's body. You can make it out of a normal color for a dog (like brown, black, or white) or you can use vibrant colors like violet, aquamarine, or pink. Lay the oval down horizontally, and prepare to add the dog's head and four legs.

You can make the body a little longer to make a dachshund-type dog (also known as a wiener dog).

If you'd like to make a dalmatian, use white for your dog's body and add flattened ovals for spots.

2. Make a round ball for the head. Attach it to the top of your dog's body. Press it in until the head sticks. Form two triangles or long ovals from the clay, and attach it to the top of your dog's head for ears. Add eyes and a smile, and top off your dog's face with a round oval for a nose.

Place a flattened red or pink half-circle on your dog's mouth for a floppy tongue.

3. Add four rectangles for the legs. For legs, shape four rectangles out of the clay. Place the legs onto the dog in pairs. Two go in the front of the body and two in the back. Scratch in two or three lines at the bottom of the legs for paws.

4. Attach a tail to your dog's body. Roll a small piece of clay back and forth between your hands, much like how you made the snake. Continue rolling until the tail gets to the desired length. Attach the tail to the back end of your dog's body.



Method 4 Creating Clay Birds.

1. Roll an oval for the body. For a bird body, the oval should be long and oblong. Make the bottom end of the oval larger than the top end. Place the oval upright and prepare to add the bird's head.

2. Make a sphere for the bird's head. Attach the head to the top of the oval and press down until it sticks. Stick on (or poke in) two eyes for your bird. For a beak, roll an orange or yellow ball between your finger and thumb. Use the toothpick to draw a slit lengthwise on the ball. Press the back end of the ball onto your bird's head.

Stretch the top and bottom ends of the beak into points for a less cartoonish beak.

3. Add wings to your bird. Form two ovals out of your clay and flatten them until they are two-dimensional. Place one wing on either side of your bird's body. If desired, you can use the toothpick to draw designs (like feather prints) on your wings.

For a two-colored wing, form two teardrop shapes out of clay and flatten it until it is also two-dimensional. Place one on each of your bird wings.

4. Sculpt two bird feet. Feet on clay birds are optional but can add a nice touch to your bird. Form six small cylindrical tubes. Place the tubes in threes on the bottom of your bird's feet. These will form claws poking out of your bird's body.

Your bird's feet will not be strong enough to support it and may get flattened if placed on a flat surface.



Question : How do I make a butterfly?

Answer : It's really easy. You just make a worm for the body, and make the wings like you make it into a circle, and you kinda make a curve in the middle. Then you can decorate it.

Question : How do I make a fish?

Answer : Take a ball of clay, roll it into a ball, and flatten it. Then, mold it into the desired shape, depending on the type of fish you are making. Make the eyes with black clay and add the details, such as fins. Scales can be made using a toothpick.

Question : How do I create a clay dolphin?

Answer : Curve your log of clay slightly. Pinch one of the ends in the middle so the clay splits off into two parts at the end, and smooth out the two parts of the tail. At the other end, squeeze a tiny bit of the end to create the beak. Poke holes for eyes, and, using a butter knife or your fingernail, press lightly all around the beak to form the mouth. Then, with a toothpick, poke a blowhole on the top of the head. Behind the head, squeeze clay on the back up to make the dorsal fin, and smooth and curve towards the tail. Finally, make the flippers by squeezing clay on the sides directly under the dorsal fin, and smooth out the flippers.

Question : How do I make an authentic clay wolf?

Answer : Make it like a dog, because the two are similar, but if you want to make a howling one, shut the eyes, open the mouth, and tilt it upwards, chin facing down.

Question : How do I make a clay jaguar?

Answer : You mold it the same as you would with a cat, but when it dries, paint spots.

Question : How do I make a whale out of clay?

Answer : Make a fish shape with blue clay, but make the tail end face upward and downward. Make a hole on the top (don't make gills or scales) for the blowhole.

Question : Can the spots be made of clay that isn't cured?

Answer : Yes, if you don't have time to let it cure or paint. It's okay with play dough or people in a hurry.

Question : How do I make a snake?

Answer : Making a snake is very easy. Just roll out a log of clay. Make one end pointy and the other end flat. Add two black eyes with clay, beads, or poke the head (the flat end) with a toothpick to make eyes. Add a forked tongue if desired. Add dots, swirls, patterns, lines, and twirls if desired.

Question : Can I create clay animals out of Play-Doh?

Answer : Yes, if it is just temporary. But if you are looking to make it permanent, then no.

Question : How do I make a clay cat?

Answer : You'll need seven pieces of clay: four feet, one long one for the body, a ball for the head and a long skinny piece for the tail. Pinch up two ears on top the head and draw in the face and whiskers. You can also make whiskers by rolling very thin bits of clay.



Tips.

Sculpt your animals out of salt-based clay so can bake them in the oven and keep them once they harden.

Thin parts of the animals, like ears and tails, are fragile. Handle these areas gently as you create your animals.

Once you've mastered these animals, get creative and make your own clay animal designs. You can make any clay animal that you set your mind to!

If your animal doesn't turn out the way you'd like, don't feel bad. The best part about clay is that you can always start over.

You can buy inexpensive jewelry findings from craft stores. Try using these to make your animals into unique, handmade jewelry.

Things You'll Need : Clay, Toothpicks, Googly eyes.

Februari 24, 2020

how to make a standing tiger out of clay

How to Make a Standing Tiger Out of Clay.

Clay is fun to work with. You can make almost anything out of it; animals, objects, and more things. This article will talk about how you can make something out of clay in the animal "category", tigers.



Steps.

1. Find a flat, clean workspace to create your clay tiger. If you create it on a bumpy surface, the tiger might look bumpy or some parts smaller than the other, for example, the head is bumpy or one leg is bigger than the other. A flat space will help you make your clay tiger comfortably.

2. Start with a big piece of orange clay. Roll it into a ball. Shape it into a rectangular prism. Round the edges to help it look like a tiger's body.

3. Roll a smaller piece of orange clay into a ball. This will be the head. Stick the head at the end of the body with a toothpick.

To stick the head on, break a toothpick in half. Poke one of the halves of the toothpick in the place you're going to put the head. Stick the head onto the toothpick. Don't let any of the toothpick show up at the bottom, and make sure the toothpick doesn't stick out. The toothpick will help the head stay and not fall off.

4. Roll two small yellow balls of clay and add them to the bottom (not all the way at the bottom) of the head. Poke small holes in them.

5. Roll another small ball of yellow clay, and add them under the two muzzles, in the middle. You will see a mouth form.

6. Roll two small orange pieces of clay into two balls for the ears. Flatten them, but keep them a little thick. Stick them on top of the head, one on the left, one on the right.

7. Flatten two smaller pieces of black clay, and flatten (this time, not thick at all). Stick them on the front of the ears. These will show the inside of the ear.

8. Make eyes using two small balls of black clay. Stick them on the (not all the way on the top) top.

9. Add a nose using pink or black clay. Shape a ball of clay into a triangle and stick it in the high middle of the snout (where the muzzle and mouth are).

10. Make arms by rolling two cylinders of orange clay. Stick them to the front sides of the body.

11. Bend the end for paws. If you'd like, you can add pads and/or claws.

12. Make legs by rolling two cylinders of orange clay. Bend the ends to create paws. Stick the legs to the back sides of the body.

13. Make a tail by rolling a cylinder of orange clay into a thinner cylinder. Roll a black oval of clay and stick it at the end of the orange strip. Stick it where the bottom will be.

14. Make lots of strips of black clay. Stick them everywhere (not all over, or the tiger will be messy!) for stripes.

15. Finished.



Question : How do I make a real looking tiger?

Answer : Try adding some features like a more detailed face and more stripes. You could add whiskers by cutting small pieces of cord and sticking them into the clay before it dries.

Question : How could I add a mane for a lion?

Answer : Add some extra clay around the neck and spread it out to look like a mane.



Tips.

Use a toothpick to hold the head in place.

Make sure you don't put too many stripes on the face, or it may block the eyes and/or nose.

You can also make a sitting tiger if you'd like.

Be creative! You don't have to use orange, because if you want to create a Siberian tiger out of clay, you have to use white instead of orange.

Make sure that when you cook the tiger, the tiger is made of a clay you can cook, not one you can't cook. Baking one that cannot be cooked may cause fire and/or cause the clay to melt. Examples of clay that cannot be cooked are air-dry clay, modeling clay, play dough, etc.

You can make your tiger any size you want.

You can also paint the stripes after drying your tiger.

Warnings.

Do not cook clay that can't be cooked in the oven! It may cause a bad smell if it melts, or even a fire! Read the clay instructions before cooking first.

Things You'll Need.

Yellow, pink, orange, and black clay.

Toothpick.

Februari 12, 2020

how to make a small penguin christmas ornament

How to Make a Small Penguin Christmas Ornament.

Make a small penguin ornament suitable for hanging on a Christmas tree.



Steps.

1. Cut out the body, cut 2 pieces. Attach the white belly to the body using one strand of black embroidery floss folded in half. Knot the end just like sewing with thread. Refer to the picture in the same area you find the pattern.

2. Place the blank sides together. Sew the body together with black sewing thread, leaving the bottom open to turn and stuff later. Keep your stitches small and as close to the edge as possible without missing any areas. Turn the ornament right side out and check for any missed areas.

3. Stitch the hat together wrong sides together, then turn right side out. The hat base (the white square) fold into a long square then sew together with white sewing thread making a circle. Turn that right side out and glue that to the bottom of the hat. A hot glue gun is recommended it seems to stick a little better, but be careful of your fingers. Also, using hot glue, attach the pompom to the end of the hat. This is the reason his hat is flat at the tip, to accommodate for the pompom.

4. Take two small eyes and glue to the top of his belly part. Use just craft glue for this.

5. Fold the beak into a triangle (in half) and using the hot glue, glue the beak just below his eyes. Again, be careful with the little pieces.

6. Glue the finished hat onto his head with the hot glue. You can also put some fiberfill (stuffing) into the hat for body, before you glue it.

7. Cut a 12" by 1/2" strip of felt (of whatever color you'd like), and tie that around his missing neck above his arms and below his face. You might want to experiment with the width and length of the scarf. You can also cut the ends in strips to make a little fringe. Tie that around him, you might want to glue a small section of the back down, as well as underneath where it's tied just so it doesn't come apart. He'll catch cold if he doesn't have his scarf on.

8. Stuff his body to the desired girth you'd like him to have. Sew up the bottom.

9. Attach thread or ribbon to the back. The form is up to your own creative wishes.

10. Embellish it. For example, glue snowflake to his hat, and place a present in his hand.

11. Finished.



Tips.

Decorate as you see fit.

Change colors of the hats, scarf, etc.

Warnings.

If you use a hot glue gun, please supervise children.

Things You Need.

Felt (black for the body, white for the belly, a goldfish yellow color felt for the beak, red and white again for the hat and color of your choice for the scarf.)

Black embroidery floss, separated into strands, e.g. DMC #310.

Small googly eyes.

MM eyes.

A small white pompom.

Februari 10, 2020

how to make a tweeting bird in a cage from plastic straws

How to Make a Tweeting Bird in a Cage from Plastic Straws.

This delightful and very clever straw art depicts a tweeting bird in a cage. You can make it in any color, and if you make it in blue, you could even use it for a Twitter icon!

The tweeting bird and the cage are both made from straws and they make ideal decorative items for cakes, drinks, a flowerpot gift, or as a child's plaything. Get your straws ready, get set, get creative!



Part 1 Making the tweeting bird.

1. Follow the cutting lines shown on the figure below for this step. Cut a wing-part from the straw. Note that it's divided into two sections by the concertina part of the straw. The wing section is shorter than the backbone.

2. Use the short wing piece for this step.

Cut open the short wing piece as shown.

3. Using your fingers, press out the cut wing piece.

Then, fold the wing piece in half, as shown.

4. Cut out symmetrical wings on both sides of the fold. Make sure to keep the wings connected at the middle.

5. Cut small slits around the bottom edge to make the feathery tips. It is helpful to enlarge this picture to see the extent of the feathering required.

6. Take the other half of the straw. In this part, you will be shaping the tail and the backbone. Refer back to the diagram in step 1 for the correct cutting points.

Press down on the straw on either side of the concertina part of the straw. Don't flatten the concertina part itself, however.

Leaving a little even space on each side of the folded line, start cutting down the backbone piece of the straw following alongside the folded edge, as shown.

Continue cutting this piece until you reach the concertina portion of the straw.

7. Take hold of the remaining uncut portion and cut it in half by cutting down the other folded line. This will divide the remaining piece exactly in half.

As before, continue cutting down the folded line until you reach the concertina part of the straw.

8. Arrange the pieces. The piece that is still folded is the backbone and tail. See the image, the fatter piece is still folded and is the piece that was cut alongside the folded line, not on it.

9. Form the bird's neck. Take the concertina part of the straw and bend it into what looks like a bird's neck shape.

Sideways viewTry to approximate how it appears here.

10. Form the bird's beak. Turn the straw around to the shorter end above the concertina part. Return to the figure set out in step 1 and follow the exact cutting points outlined there.

Pull the cut piece away to reveal the beak shape.

11. Return to the longer side of the straw below the concertina portion. Take each of the wide pieces and bend them, then wrap them around the backbone piece, as shown. You're about to create a knot at this point. Refer back to previous steps to help you keep track of each piece.

12. Ensure that a loophole has been created and hold the two fat pieces between your fingers, just prior to pulling into a knot.

Pull into shape to create a neat and symmetrical knot. Don't make it too tight as you'll need to loosen it shortly for adding the wings.

The two fat pieces (the legs that will slide into the cage piece) should be facing forward when you are finished, in front of the neck and below the beak.

13. Loosen the knot to create a small space. Slide the wings through this space and ensure that they're sitting evenly. Retighten the knot.

14. Finish up by tidying the short tail. Cut off the long piece so that a short tail remains, as shown by the image.

Feather the tail. As with the wings, make small evenly spaced slits to create a feathered tail look. You can stop here if you want just a bird, or you can proceed to making a cage for it as well, as outlined in Part 2.



Part 2 Making the cage.

1. View the figure provided here to help you understand which parts are created to form the cage.

2. Cut the straw. Following the image provided in step 1 of Part 2, cut the straw into eight equal parts, lengthwise. The cuts should only come as far as the valley fold line indicated on the figure.

3. Fold each of the eight parts. Following the figure, you will need to make both mountain and valley folds, as outlined on the figure.

Valley folds: Pull each of the eight pieces out from the straw (toward you if you're rotating the straw) and bend into position. The valley fold extends from the point where you ended cutting the eight pieces.

Mountain folds: Looking at the diagram in Step 1, Part 2, fold each of the eight pieces that have been folded outward up toward you so that stick up like a mountain.

4. Cut off a small portion of the uncut end of the straw. You are going to be using this piece as a ring to thread over the other part of the straw.

The resulting ring seen apart from the rest of the straw.

5. Place the ring at the top of the eight thin mountain pieces. Make sure each piece is included; this may take some steady handwork.

Thread it to about three quarters of the way down the cut straw pieces, as shown here.

6. Create curls. The curls are designed to prevent the ring piece from slipping off the cage when you push it back up toward the top. Take the ends of each cut piece of straw and roll it over firmly to create a curl shape.

Repeat for each piece until all are curled.

7. Push the ring back up toward the top, sitting just under the curled parts of the cage.

Pull out the valley/mountain folds evenly to form the sides of the cage. Adjust until the entire structure sits together properly and looks like a cage.



Part 3 Combining the two pieces.

1. Gently slide your bird made in Part 1 into the cage. The legs should slide straight into the hollow at the base of the cage.

2. Adjust so that the bird appears to be singing from through the bars of the cage. Enjoy your tweeting bird, or if you made it in blue, your "Twitter bird", in its cage!



Tips.

If you'd like to make your bird appear more realistic, stick on some googly eyes with a tiny drop of glue.

Here is how he'll look with eyes.

Things you'll Need.

2 plastic straws of different colours (the straw used in the pictures measured 6mm, 21cm (0.23", 8.2") Bendy straw.

Scissors.

Googly eyes and glue (optional but very effective).

Sturdy workspace

Februari 07, 2020

how to make a sitting bird out of clay

How to Make a Sitting Bird Out of Clay.

A clay bird can be especially difficult to create because their bodies are shown as an oval that has lots of details needed and their tail is feathery, which is hard to shape out. But he information in this article will help you learn how to create a bird out of clay.



Steps.

1. Gather your supplies shown in the Things You'll Need section shown below.

2. Start off with any color piece of clay. Roll it into a ball, then shape it into an oval shape.

3. Get another piece of clay the same color or a different color. It should be a bit smaller than the other piece. Roll it into a slightly thick cylinder. At the top, bend it forward and make it circle shaped. This will be the neck and head. Stick it to the body.

4. Get a very small piece of clay whatever color you like and shape it into a triangle. Make small separate "hairs". These will be the tail feathers. Stick it to the back of the body on top.

5. For wings, you can either add lines to make it look like it has wings, or shape some clay into wings and stick it to the side.

6. Get two small pieces of clay. Shape them into slightly thin cylinders. Make toes at the bottom of the cylinder to make legs for the bird. For details, add marks to the legs. Stick these at the bottom of the body. Bend them down and flatten them a bit to make the bird look like it is sitting.

7. Shape another small piece into a triangle. Add two holes on top of it for nostrils, and separate it into two pieces to create a beak. You can also just add a line. Stick this nearly at the bottom of where the face will be.

8. Take a white piece of clay. Roll two of them up and then flatten them. Do the same for smaller pieces of black clay and flatten them on the white clay. Stick them on the face for eyes.

9. If you'd like, make a nest and put the bird in it to make it look like it is actually sitting down.



Tips.

Add details, such as dots, lines, or even designs would look great.

Consider using the same color clay for the body, head, wings, and tail so it looks a bit more neat. The beak and legs could be different colors.

You could add different colors to the bird if it is going to have designs.

You could make the bird look like it is sitting down by folding its legs down.

If the clay is sticky, dip your hands in water every few minutes.

Consider using a mat to make your clay bird on so it won't stick.

If you want to make an ornament, add a hook at the top and bake it in the oven so it will become an ornament.

Warnings.

Do not bake clay that can't be baked. This will cause the clay to melt, and may even cause a fire. Read the clay instructions on baking in the pack before trying to bake it.

Things You'll Need.

Tools to design it.

Clay colors of your choice.

Cup of water.

Hook (optional).

Mat.

Februari 07, 2020

how to make a polymer clay penguin

How to Make a Polymer Clay Penguin.

There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!

Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.

1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.

2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.

3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.

4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.

5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.

6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.

7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.

8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.

9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.

Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.

Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.

10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.

11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.

12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.

13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.

14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.

15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.

If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.

16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.

17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.

Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.

1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.

Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!

2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.

3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.

4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.

5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.

6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.

7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.

If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.

8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.

9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.

If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.

10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.

11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.

Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.

Tips.

You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.

Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).

If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.

Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.

Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.

You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.

If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.

If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.

Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.

Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.



Warnings.

Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.



Things You'll Need

Making a Basic Penguin.

Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.

Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).



Making a Penguin Charm.

Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.

Oven, Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Orange acrylic paint, Thin paintbrush, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).

Januari 25, 2020

how to make papier mache eggs

How to Make Papier Mâché Eggs.

Papier-mâché eggs are both easy and fun to make. You can paint them bright colors and use them as Easter decorations, or you can paint them to look like real wild bird eggs and display them in your room. They do take a few days to dry, but they are a great, hands-on activity, which many children love. When you are finished, you can even fill them with candies, and crack them open later!

Method 1 Making Basic Eggs.

1. Blow up a balloon, tie the end into a knot, and set it down in a small cup. The cup will prevent the balloon from rolling away while you work.

2. Mix 2 parts white school glue with one part water in a small bowl. This will be your papier-mâché glue.

3. Tear some paper into small squares or rectangles. Newspaper works best, but you can also use plain newsprint paper from the craft store instead. Don't cut the paper; the ragged edges will help the paper seal together and give you a smoother finish.

Consider using both newspaper and tissue paper. This way, when you do multiple layers, you will be able to see which one you are working on.

Avoid using plain printer paper or construction paper. Both are too thick and too stiff for this project.

4. Dip a paper strip into the glue, and place it onto the balloon. Drag the strip across the edge of the bowl as you pull it out. This will remove any excess glue. Place it down near the top of the balloon. Use your fingers or a paintbrush to smooth the paper down so that it lays flat against the balloon.

5. Continue applying the paper strips until the balloon is completely covered. Overlap the strips slightly as you work from one end of the balloon to the other. Work your way from the top of the balloon all the way down to the tail end. Do not cover the tail, or you won't be able to remove the balloon.

6. Apply a second layer of paper. You don't have to dip these strips of paper into the glue. Simply stick them to the wet paper that's already on the balloon, and use your fingers or a paintbrush to smooth down the edges.

Consider using a tissue paper or plain newsprint for this layer. This way, you will be able to see what's cover and what isn't.

Two layers is ideal for eggs that you want to cut open. If you want a sturdier egg, apply a third layer. You may have to use some extra glue for this one.

7. Hang the balloon up to dry. Use a clothespin to clip the balloon to a hanger or clothesline. Wait for it to dry completely before moving on. It may take up to 2 or 3 days.

8. Pop and remove the balloon. Once the egg is completely dry, gently tug the balloon tail up so that you expose a bit of the balloon. Pierce it with a pin or pair of scissors and wait for the balloon to deflate. Once it is completely deflated, pull it out and discard it.

9. Cover the hole with 2 to 3 layers of paper and glue and wait for it to dry. Use the same technique as you did for the rest of your egg. If you wish to fill your egg, then do so before covering up the hole.

10. Paint the egg a solid color using acrylic or tempra paint and wait for it to dry. To make the paint really stand out, coat the entire egg using white primer and let it dry. Once you have your white base, you can paint your egg any color you want.

11. Add patterns to the eggs, if desired. Once your base color has dried, you can paint designs onto it. You can also draw designs using glitter glue or puffy paints instead.

Great Easter designs include: stripes, dots, and squiggles. Try to use soft, pastel colors.

12. Consider giving the eggs a final coating of gloss. Once all the paint has dried, spray or paint the eggs with a glossy sealer. You can even use a glittery sealer to give it some extra sparkle.This will help make them more durable.

If you'd like, you can cut the egg in half using jagged, zigzag lines so that it resembles a cracked open egg. When you are done, you can fill each half with fake grass, and place a little chick or bunny figure in each.

Things You'll Need : Water balloon, Newspaper, Paintbrush, Water, White school glue, Small cup, Scissors, Clothespin.

Method 2 Making Tissue Paper Eggs

1. Blow up a water balloon, tie the end into a knot, and set it down into a cup. The cup will hold the balloon sturdy while you work.

2. Pour some liquid starch or decoupage glue into a bowl. You can also mix your own glue by using 2 parts white school glue and 1 part water.

3. Cut the white tissue paper into 1½-inch (3.81 centimeters) squares and set it aside. This will make the base for your egg. One sheet will be enough to coat three eggs.

4. Cut the colored tissue paper into 1½-inch (3.81 centimeters) squares and set it aside. This will make the outside of your egg. You can make it all one color or many different colors. Some crafters have noted that lighter colored tissue paper, such as yellow, shows the layering and overlapping more.

To make polka dot eggs, punch a ¾-inch (1.91 centimeters) circle in the center of your square using a scrapbooking hole punch. Discard the circles, and use the squares so that you get white polkadots on your egg.

5. Start applying the base layer using the white tissue paper. Brush on some of your glue onto the balloon, and press a piece of white tissue paper onto it. Smooth it down with a brush dipped in more glue. Overlap the pieces as you cover the entire egg.

Start applying the tissue paper at the top of the balloon and work your way towards the tail. Don't cover the tail up.

6. Apply the colored layer. If the tissue paper on the balloon is already damp, you do not need to apply more glue. Simply press a piece of colored tissue paper onto it, and smooth it down with a little more glue. Remember to overlap the pieces by a little.

If you are making polka dotted eggs, be careful not to cover up the white polka dots!

7. Hang the balloon up to dry overnight. You can do this by clipping the tail of the balloon to a hanger or to a clothesline. This can take 2 to 3 days.

8. Pop and remove the balloon. Make sure that the balloon is completely dry, then gently tug on the balloon tail until you expose a bit of the balloon. Pierce the balloon with a pin or a pair of scissors. Wait for the balloon to deflate, then pull it out and discard it.

9. Fill the egg with candy, if desired. Small candies, such as chocolate eggs, work great! Be careful not to overfill the egg; it is still very fragile. If you do not wish to fill your egg, you can move onto the next step.

10. Cover the hole with 2 to 3 more layers of colored tissue paper. Use the same technique as you did when first covering the egg. Let the patch covering the hole dry before moving on.

Because these eggs are made from colorful tissue paper, they don't need to be painted. You can still decorate them, however, with glitter glue if you'd like.

11. Give the eggs away as gifts or use them as decorations. To open the eggs, simply tear them apart. They make great gifts for Easter baskets!

Things You'll Need : Water balloon, White tissue paper, Colorful tissue paper, Paintbrush, Liquid laundry starch or decoupage glue, Small cup, Scissors, Clothespin.

Question : Can I fill a paper mache creation with something to make it heavier?
Answer : Sure! Candy works well if you want it to be like a pinata.

Question : Which one is stronger?
Answer : Method 1 will give you a stronger, more durable result, as newspaper is thicker than tissue paper.

Question : Which method is better to create the eggs?
Answer : It depends on what you are looking for. The 1st method is better for making stronger eggs, for example, to put heavier objects in. However, the 2nd method is better if you want to put candy in, as they are much easier to open up, especially for children. If you're thinking of using them for decorations, method 2 would make for prettier, delicate decorations indoors, but method 1 is more advisable for outdoor decorations as the eggs will be more durable against the weather.

Tips.

For a vintage design, use newspaper and don't paint the eggs. Instead, give them a coat of glossy varnish.

You should tear newspaper and newsprint, but you don't have to tear tissue paper.

You can also do this project using regular balloons as well, but it will take more time to dry.

If the egg collapses when you remove the balloon, stick a pen, pencil, or chopstick into it and push the dents out as best you can.

Paint the egg to resemble real bird eggs. Look up pictures of interesting bird eggs online, and try to copy them as best you can. You can create speckles by splattering paint over the egg.

For something quick and easy, decorate your egg with stickers. If this is for Easter, use Easter themed stickers.

If you made your egg using newspaper and wish to paint it, add a layer of blank newsprint or white tissue paper. This way, the letters won't show through.

Decoupage shapes cut out of paper onto your finished egg instead of painting the designs.

Punch out shapes out of tissue paper using scrapbook punches, and press these shapes onto your egg while it is still wet.

Try printed paper that has patterns on it. Origami paper and printed tissue paper is great for this. Avoid using thick or glossy paper, such as gift wrap; it is too thick and stiff for this project.

Warnings.

Do not get impatient when it comes to drying. The papier-mâché must be completely dry before you remove the balloon. If you remove it too soon, the whole egg will collapse!

Januari 21, 2020

how to make a ball

How to Make a Ball.

Balls provide endless entertainment for kids and adults alike, so make your own if you want a fun toy to play with this weekend. But there are balls for other occasions, too. If you’re having a rough week, for instance, create a stress ball to squeeze when you just want to scream. Or get creative and make balls out of things like rubber bands, fabric, and even cheese!

Method 1 Making a Bouncy Ball.

1. Combine school glue, cornstarch, and any add-ins in a bowl. Stir together the 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch until they’re thoroughly combined, using a spoon or wooden stick. If you want to add any extras, like food coloring or glitter, do so now.

You can use either white or clear school glue. If you use white glue and don’t add any coloring, your ball will be white.

Fun Add-Ins for Your Bouncy Ball

Sprinkle in glitter for a little extra sparkle.

Squeeze in a few drops of food coloring to make a ball in your favorite hue.

Stir glow in the dark paint into the glue for a ball that can be used at night.

Swirl 2 colors of food coloring together if you want a multi-colored masterpiece.

2. Stir warm water and Borax together in a separate bowl. Mix 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water and 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax until the Borax is completely dissolved. Stir vigorously to ensure there are no clumps of powder left in the bowl.

Heat the water in the microwave or on the stove until it’s warm to the touch. It shouldn’t be boiling.

You can find Borax in the laundry aisle of a store.

Borax is safe to use, but it's poisonous if ingested in large quantities. If you or your child get it in your eyes or mouth, contact poison control immediately.

3. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of the Borax mixture in the bowl with the glue. Do not stir the ingredients together when you add them. Simply pour the Borax and water into the other bowl containing the glue and cornstarch.

Set aside the remaining Borax mixture if you plan on making more balls.

4. Let the mixture sit for 15 seconds. This allows time for the Borax to react with the glue, making the polymers of the glue link together which will create the ball shape. If you start stirring right away, the bouncy ball may not form or harden properly.

Set a kitchen timer or use the clock app on your phone to keep track of the time.

5. Use a spoon to combine the ingredients until they’re too thick to stir. Within 1 to 2 minutes, the mixture will thicken. Stir vigorously while the mixture is still liquid to make sure the ingredients are blended well.

Choose a sturdy spoon, like a metal or thick plastic one. Something flimsy, like a plastic spoon, will likely break off in the goo.

If you’ve made homemade slime with Borax, this process is very similar.

6. Remove the mixture and roll it between your hands to form a ball. Once the mixture is too thick for your spoon or stick, pull it out of the bowl and place it between your palms. Roll it around by moving your hands in circular motions until the ball is no longer sticky.

The more you handle the ball, the more firm it will become.

If you’re having trouble getting rid of the stickiness, dip the ball in the Borax water, then roll it a little more. This should remove any tacky texture.

7. Let the ball harden for about 10 to 20 minutes before you use it. This dries the ball a little more, so that it’s extra bouncy. If the ball starts to flatten while it sits, simply roll it back into shape when you’re ready to play with it.

Once you’re done playing, store the ball in an airtight container to prevent it from drying out. Keep it in a cool, dark place, like the pantry.

If stored properly, your ball could last for up to 6 months. It won’t go bad, but it will dry out eventually.

To make more bouncy balls, mix up another batch of glue and cornstarch and use some of the leftover Borax and water mixture.

Things You'll Need.

2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water, 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch.

Spoon or wooden stick, 2 cups or small bowls, Food coloring or other add-ins (optional), Airtight container (optional).

Method 2 Creating a Paper Soccer Ball.

1. Trace 20 hexagons on white paper, then cut them out. Draw your hexagons on the paper with a template, making each side the exact same length. Use scissors to carefully cut along the traced shapes, then set them aside.

If you want a life-sized soccer ball, make the edges 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.

To make a template, use a ruler to draw the hexagon shape on a piece of cardboard. Cut it out and trace around it with a pencil to make each paper hexagon.

Cardstock is the best type of paper to use for this craft. It’s sturdy enough to hold the shape of the ball yet still easy to fold.

2. Trace and cut out 12 black pentagons with sides the same length. The edges of the black and white pieces need to be equal so that they fit together properly. Use a template to draw your pentagon shapes, then cut them out with scissors.

For example, if you’re creating a life-sized ball, make your pentagon sides 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.

You can use a different color paper instead of black, or get creative and make a multi-colored ball with a variety of shades.

Cut a pentagon template out of cardboard to trace on the black paper so that the pieces are all equal size.

3. Fold up a thin border around each hexagon and pentagon. This edge will allow you to build your ball seamlessly, so there are no gaps between pieces. You only want to fold enough of each edge to have a place to apply glue or tape. Keep the border size equal on each piece so they all remain the same size after folding.

To fold the same border on each piece, trace the border before you fold, using a ruler to ensure each edge is an equal width.

Use a straight edge, like a ruler, to help you fold the edges in a perfect line.

If the edges are crooked, re-fold them. They have to be straight for your ball to be the right shape.

To make folding easier, snip off the corners of your border before you fold. This allows you to fold the edges up without dealing with corners that crumple up or stick out.

4. Apply glue or tape to the folded edges of each piece. This is how you’ll stick the the pieces together to form the ball. Swipe glue on each of the edges of all the hexagons and pentagons. You can also use a strip of tape on the edges instead.

A glue stick will work better than liquid glue to prevent the paper edges from getting soggy.

If you are slow at putting the ball together, you may want to apply the glue as you go, rather than all at once. Otherwise, it will dry out on the final pieces by the time you get to them.

5. Attach 5 white hexagons to 1 black pentagon. On a standard soccer ball, each black piece is completely surrounded by white pieces. Press 1 white hexagon onto each edge of a black pentagon. Hold the edges together until the glue dries.

If you’re using a glue stick, the glue will dry almost instantly. Wait about 5 to 10 seconds while pressing the edges against one another.

6. Continue gluing the pieces together in this pattern, forming the soccer ball. On the other edges of the white hexagons that you attached to the original pentagon, glue more black pentagons. Don’t forget to glue the white edges that touch each other, too. Once you connect all of the pieces, you’ll have a ball shape.

A black piece should never touch another black piece. However, white edges will touch other white edges.

If you’re having trouble visualizing the pattern, look up an image of a soccer ball online as a guide.

You can stuff the ball with shreds of paper if you want to create a fuller shape.

Things You'll Need.

Black and white sheets of paper, Scissors, Cardboard.

Pencil or pen, Glue stick or tape, Homemade Stress Ball, 12 in (30 cm) latex balloon.

Method 3 Using Play Dough for a Homemade Stress Ball.

1. Use your hands to roll play dough into a long shape. Place a pile of play dough on a flat surface, then gently roll it out with the palms of your hands. This should form what looks like a snake.

It doesn’t matter what color play dough you use, since it will just be going inside the balloon.

Buy pre-made play dough or make your own at home.

If you buy play dough, use one 5 oz (140 g) container per balloon.

2. Insert the play dough into the balloon. Stretch the neck of the balloon open as wide as you can, then stuff the play dough snake into the balloon. The play dough should fill the balloon just to the base of the neck.

If there is a lot of empty space in the balloon, add more play dough.

Stretch out the neck of the balloon before you insert the play dough to loosen it up.

This step is easier if you have someone else hold the balloon open while you put the play dough inside.

3. Tie a knot in the neck at the top of the balloon to secure it. This will keep all of the play dough inside the balloon. Wrap the neck around your finger to make your knot, tying it as tightly as possible.

If you want extra protection, you can place your original balloon inside another empty balloon before tying it shut. This adds a double layer in case you poke a hole.

You can decorate your stress balls with permanent markers if you’d like. For example, you could draw a funny face or write a calming phrase, like “just breathe.”

Things You'll Need.

Permanent marker (optional).

Method 4 Forming Other Types of Balls.

1. Build a rubber band ball for a creative way to store supplies. Instead of tossing your rubber bands in a drawer, keep them together in 1 big ball. Fold up a thick rubber band to form the center, then begin wrapping all of other bands around it. Criss-cross directions often to round out the ball.

You can also wrap your bands around a bouncy ball or crumpled-up piece of paper for a larger ball.

Start with smaller rubber bands, then add the larger ones as the ball gets bigger.

2. Sew a fabric ball if you want a soft toy for kids or pets. Young children, particularly babies, could get injured by hard rubber balls. Instead, stitch together a ball out of strips of fabric, then stuff it with polyfill for a plush feel or use dried beans for a bean bag texture.

This also makes a great pet toy for dogs to chew on or for cats to bat around. If the ball is for a pet, pick a durable fabric like vinyl or nylon and keep your pet in sight as it plays with the ball.

You can use a sewing machine to make your ball or sew it by hand.

Cotton is ideal for kids’ toys since it’s a long-lasting and soft fabric that’s easy to wash.

3. Use ice to make a ball for a unique cocktail add-in. Not only do ice spheres look much cooler than regular cubes floating in your drink, they also melt slower, so your beverage doesn't get watered-down as quickly. Fill a silicone ice ball mold with water, then place it in the freezer for at least 6 hours, or until the balls have set and hardened.

For extra flair and flavor, add things like fresh herbs or edible flowers into the water in the mold before it freezes.

You can buy ice ball molds from a kitchen store or online retailer.

4. Make a cheese ball if you’re having people over for dinner or a party. When it’s your turn to play host or hostess, whip up a cheese ball as an impressive appetizer. Mix together cream cheese and other soft cheeses, shape it into a ball, then chill it in the refrigerator. Roll it in chopped nuts and other garnishes before serving.

You can substitute mascarpone, neufchatel, or goat cheese for the cream cheese if you’d like.

Pair any type of softer cheese with the creamy base, depending on your taste preferences. As long as it’s not a dry, crumbly cheese like parmesan, it will work.

Serve a cheese ball with finger foods for dipping, like crackers, pretzels, or raw veggies.

Warnings.

Borax is poisonous. Get help immediately if you accidentally ingest it or get it in your eyes.

Never let young children handle Borax without close supervision.

Januari 20, 2020

how to make a beaded lizard

How to Make a Beaded Lizard.

Here's a cute, fun, and creative afternoon activity that you can make and attach to your backpack or even wear as a necklace. All it takes are some beads, string, and a keychain clasp.

Method 1 Preparing the Body.

1. Cut a roughly three-foot length of 1/8th-inch ribbon or string. The longer the string, the longer the lizard. Three feet is a good start.

2. Fold the string in half so that the two ends meet. This will lead to a loop at the other end of the string.

3. Take the loop and run it through the bottom of a keychain clasp. Really, any sort of clasp will work. All you need to do is create a slipknot around the clasp. You should have your loop on one side of the clasp, and the long excess string on the other.

4. Pull the ends through the loop to create a slipknot. Reach into the loop and pull the strings through, pulling until tight. This creates a simple slip knot that will hold the lizard in place as you work.

5. Tape the clasp down to the table so that the strings drape towards you. Make sure the strings are not tangled up, and that you can clearly tell which string is the left string and which one is the right.

Method 2 Building the Head and Neck.

1. Add two beads to the leftmost string. These beads will be your body, so choose the color you want for the bulk of the lizard. Don't feed the beads all the way down; just let them dangle a bit towards the end. In this video, the body will be yellow.

2. Thread the right string through the beads the opposite way. If the leftmost string enters through the left, thread this one through from the right. You'll have both string going through the center of the two beads in opposite directions.

3. Pull both ends of the strings until the beads slide up to the keychain clasp. Lightly pull on the opposite ends to force the beads up to the top.

4. Feed three more beads -- two eyes and a body color -- onto the leftmost string. You want to sandwich the body bead with the two eye colors. Here, the eyes are green and the body is yellow, so you'd put them on as green, yellow, green.

5. Slide the right side through the beads and pull both ends until the beads slide to the top. Repeat the same procedure as you did with the first two body beads. Slide the three beads on the left string, thread the right through them, then pull both strings to move the beads to the top.

6. Repeat the whole procedure with two more beads to make the "neck." Take two body colors, thread them on the left, slide the right through, and pull tight. This is your neck.

7. Take three more body beads and pull them through. Again, it is the same procedure. For a little flair, you can use a different color for the center bead here, allowing you to put a "stripe" on your lizard's back.

These three beads are the beginning of the "back." You'll need to start the limbs after this.

Method 3 Building The Legs.

1. Set aside two beads for the body and three other beads for the feet. Here, the body beads are still yellow and the feet will be black.

2. Thread the two body beads on the left string and slide them down close to the body. Push them almost all the way to the body. These are your legs.

3. Slide the black beads on, just above the legs. Keep them close, but separated.

4. Thread the end of the left string through the two beads for the leg. You just want to thread through your two yellow beads, not the three for the feet.

5. Pull the string tight to pull everything together, adjusting slightly as necessary. Use your fingers to make sure nothing bunches up. This is your first leg! Note how it only requires the left string to make -- you should never touch the right one when making the left leg.

6. Repeat the process with the other string to make the right leg. Once done, it is time to move back to the body.

Method 4 Finishing the Body and Tail.

1. Build three more body rows identically to the first. Put three beads on the left string, remembering to alternate them if you're doing a two-colored body. Then slide the right string in the opposite direction as the left and pull the two ends to slide the beads up to the body.

You need three more rows before starting the feet again.

2. Make two more legs the same way you made the first two. After the three lengths of the body, add two more legs. The process is identical.

3. Add two more body beads, to make the base of the tail (identical to the neck). You should have the process down pat by now. Two beads on the left string, feed through the right string and pull tight.

4. Slide the first tail bead on the left string, thread the right string through the opposite side, and pull. The tail is simply the same process as the body, but its only one bead per layer. You can choose any color you want. Alternating looks great too, and you can use as many beads as you want for the length of tail you like.

5. Tie a double knot at the end of the tail to keep the beads in place. You can tie any knot you want, but a simple square knot will do just fine. You can use the knot used to tie your shoes as well, but make sure you double knot it.

Question : What can I do if I have lost 2 beads?
Answer : A good way to solve this without doing much damage would be to shorten the tail by two beads.

Question : What size beads should I use?
Answer : The best beads to use are pony beads. Pony beads measure about 6 by 9 millimeters, and the hole is about 4 millimeters.

Question : How can I give the lizard a longer nose?
Answer : After you secure the string to the clasp, you could first tie one bead on the string. Then you would make the lizard as explained in the article, which would give it a slightly longer nose.

Question : Can I use thread instead of string or ribbon?
Answer : Yes, you can use thread instead of string or ribbon, but I would just make sure your thread is thick enough that it won't break.

Question : What do I do if I run out of ribbon in the middle?
Answer : Undo your previous row of beads and attach new ribbon. Tie as small of a knot as possible. As a general rule, I use one inch of material per bead.

Question : What are the best beads to use for making a beaded lizard?
Answer : The best beads to use for making this are horse beads. This is because they are thick and are durable, you can buy them at any craft store or bead store.

Things You'll Need : Pony Beads (about 60), 1/8th-inch wide ribbon, Scissors, Beads, Tape, Nice flat surface (recommended).

Tips : You can mix and match colors and lengths with ease once you get used to the process. For a bigger lizard, add one bead to each smaller section (legs, head, neck) and two beads to each body section. This will keep the proportions roughly the same.

Januari 16, 2020

how to make a balloon pet

How to Make a Balloon Pet.

A balloon pet can be made in various ways, each making use of the balloon shape and then being decorated as you please. In each case, these little "companions" aren't meant to last long; they're just a fun toy or decoration for a short time.

Method 1 Blown up balloon pets.

1. Make a balloon pet using a blown-up balloon. There are lots of possibilities here, so this section will provide a few suggestions and you can experiment with your own as well.

2. Make a balloon dog. Choose a balloon in the color you'd like the dog to be, such as brown, white, black, grey or any other color.

Blow up the balloon with helium gas. Tie it into a knot, to keep the gas in place.

Draw floppy ear shapes onto two pieces of card. Color in (if needed), then cut these out. Attach using glue to each side of the balloon, at the non-knotted end.

Draw the face directly onto the balloon. Draw a kidney shape facing downward for the snout and draw a circle in the middle for the dog's nose. Draw large eyes above the snout and blacken them in.

Tie a string on the base. The dog balloon can now be played with or used as a party decoration.

3. Make a balloon fish. Choose an orange or yellow balloon for making the fish.

Blow up the balloon. You can use air or helium gas, whichever is easiest. Tie a knot in it, to keep the air in place.

Draw two fin shapes on orange or yellow card. Cut these out. Attach them with glue to the sides of the balloon, with the back of the fins facing toward the knotted end of the balloon.

Cut out a tail fin from the orange or yellow card. Glue over the knotted area of the balloon.

Stick on two large eyes made from card. Or, simply draw these on with markers.

The fish balloon is now ready for play or to be placed out as a decoration for a party.

4. Make a balloon puppy. This is a fun one for the kids to drag around with them, and is easier if you only have air rather than helium for filling the balloons.

Blow up the balloon. Tie a knot in it, to keep the air in place. (Air is best as it allows the balloon puppy to hover around the kid's feet as it is being walked.)

At the knot end of the balloon, create the dog's face. Draw a round nose just above the knot and blacken it in. Draw a smiling mouth (two semi circle arcs either side of the knot). Draw whisker dots above each smile arc (about four is sufficient).

Either attach floppy ears made from card, or draw them on the dog. They look more effective if made from card though.

Cut out a length of string or cord. Tie onto the balloon knot. This becomes the puppy's leash.

Allow the kids to take the balloon puppy for a walk.

Method 2 Water balloon pet.

1. Fill a water balloon with water.

2. Tie off the balloon to keep the water intact.

3. Decorate the balloon.

Draw a face on it. Use markers. If you want to stick on googly eyes, do so.

Stick on hair if wished. You can use strands of yarn stuck on with craft glue. If you would like a bow in the hair, cut one from paper and glue on.

Draw on any clothing or accessory features, if relevant. For example, a tie, or necklace.

4. Finished. The water balloon pet can be played with for a while.

Method 3 Balloon stress relief pet.

1. Make a stress relief pet that will last a little longer than the other projects suggested in this article. This "pet" can be held in the palm of the hands and squeezed to reduce tension and exercise the hand muscles.

2. Choose a balloon color. Any color is fine, these "pets" can be all colors of the rainbow.

3. Stretch the open end of the balloon a bit. Stretch it back and forth to make the opening a little looser. This will help placing the filling inside.

4. Funnel in the filling for the balloon. This can be either sand or play dough, depending on your preference. Kids tend to like the play dough because it can be shaped into all sorts of funny configurations that keep their shape after molding.

5. Knot the balloon. Ensure that the sand or play dough do not come into the neck area of the balloon; if you have overfilled it, remove some of the filling, to allow you to tie a knot in the balloon.

6. Decorate the balloon pet. Draw eyes, a smile, a nose, freckles, etc. It's fun to let the kids do this for themselves, as they can style the face in their own way.

7. Add hair. This step is optional but can make the pet look funnier. Add small spikes of yarn to the knot end of the balloon; glue to attach. Keep these pieces short, so that they stand up.

8. Done. The balloon pet is now ready for play or stress relief.

Method 4 Balloon animal from balloon art.

1. Make a balloon pet using balloon art twisting techniques. There are many different animal shapes that you can make using this technique, allowing you to have a whole menagerie of balloon pets if wished.

Question : Mine is ugly. How do I make it pretty?
Answer : Experimenting with different faces and designs can help you to make this craft your own. If you're not happy with how it looks the first time, try making it again in a different color or with a different face. Remember, practice makes perfect!

Tips.

Dispose of used balloons thoughtfully. They should be encased inside your normal trash, so that animals cannot find the balloon remains and eat them. Balloons inside animals can kill if they get wrapped around internal organs or cause blockages.

Things You'll Need : Balloons, Markers, Decorative elements, Scissors and glue, Card, String or cord, Sand or play dough as filling.

Januari 15, 2020

how to write a pet memoir

How to Write a Pet Memoir.

A pet memoir is an endearing and lasting way to create a memento that honors your pet's life. A memoir for a pet can take many forms, depending on whether it's just for creating your own keepsake, a special gift for the family or maybe a memento for a wider audience. This article is mainly focused on the personal level memoir for yourself and/or your family members.

Part 1 Choosing the design and layout.

1. Think about the way in which you'd like to present the memoir before writing. This can have an influence on the way that you write the memoir. For example, if you wish to accompany the writing with images, this will require a greater focus on the specific images and why the images are of importance to you and your family. Or, if you want to write an essay style, this will require more of a story, which may or may not be accompanied by images, either retelling the animal's life or perhaps picking out key happenings that you identify with as being most indicative of the personality of your pet. Consider some of these possible ways for presenting the memoir:

A journal style with a retelling by years, from the beginning to the end of your pet's life.

A scrapbook of favorite images of your pet, accompanied by text explaining relevant things about the pet related to the image and its date.

An essay, letter, poem, etc., about your pet. This could be produced digitally, in book form, or both. It could be accompanied by images, or be mostly text, perhaps with one photo of your pet.

An online piece of writing (on a website, social media site or a tailor-made memorial site).

2. Design the look of the document or format you're producing as a memoir. It's best to leave actually forming the design after the writing has been completed, to ensure that the writing is the feature, and the design work simply boosts the memoir material.

If it's going to be digital, consider using borders, background images, occasional photos, etc. to brighten it up.

If choosing a hard copy version, use quality materials that are long-lasting. A lovely hard-covered notebook or a quality scrapbook might be ideal.

If making a scrapbook memoir, also find scrapbook pieces that are relevant to the pet's life, such as a collar tag, a piece of fabric from a favorite toy, photos, cut-outs of the animal species, etc.

Part 2 Writing the memoir.

1. Decide what form of writing you'll use to write the memoir. There are no hard and fast rules on how a memoir should be written. The best approach is to choose the writing format that you're most comfortable with and that reflects the things you really wish to capture about your pet's life. This could be:

An essay, short story or long piece of free-writing about your pet's life

A book that you will have published.

A poem or a series of poems.

A combination of writing and poetry.

A blog post or Facebook update, and so forth.

2. Start writing. A memoir is about memories of your beloved pet, the ones that move you, remind you of time spent together and the ones you want to capture for the future. Some of the things you might like to write about in your pet's memoir include:

When you first got your pet and why you wanted the pet.

Any identifiable features, quirks or personality traits of your pet that you noticed early on, or that grew over time. Describe your pet as best you can. (Images or self-made drawings might help you with this.)

Interactions with other people in the household or neighborhood; interactions with other pets or animals.

Eventful situations with your pet, such as rescuing the pet/the pet rescuing you or someone else; losing your pet and finding it again; showing your pet in a show; traveling with your pet; having your pet at your wedding, etc.

How your pet made you feel. Did your pet help you feel better when you were down? Did your pet bring you joy even when you felt the rest of life was hard? Was your pet an important companion to you?

Ways in which your pet inspired, enlightened or informed you.

Things you want to always remember about your pet.

Favorite activities together, such as going for walks, singing together, doing tricks, eating together, dancing, riding, etc.

The circumstances surrounding your pet's death, such as its age, an illness or an accident. This is optional, as you may not feel ready or desirous of adding these details to the memoir.

3. Consider asking others to contribute to the memoir. If the pet was a beloved member of your family or household, it's likely that the pet developed special and differentiated bonds with them. Ask family or household members to contribute their writing (or other mementos) to the memoir too.

You could make separate sections of the memoir devoted to each person's take on the pet's life and how they interacted with it. This can make a lovely memento for everyone if you make copies.

4.
Keep copies of the memoir where it can be easily accessed. If hard copy, place it on a bookshelf, or perhaps rest it on a book stand, with the pet's name and photo clearly on the front. If in digital format, name it so that it's easy to find again and be sure to back it up. Email it to others, if appropriate.

Tips

Images of your pet can provide you with inspiration as you write the memoir.

If you're artistic, consider painting or drawing a portrait of your pet and adding it to the memoir. You can scan it in if making a digital memoir.

If you want to write a pet memoir that gets published for wide readership, you'll need to follow the rules of writing good memoirs, including focusing on key moments in the pet's life that serve to enlighten or inspire readers. Do not make the mistake of trying to document your pet's life chronologically, in every little detail, or you'll bore the reader instantly. Also, if writing for a public readership, be careful not to write in terms that are too sentimental or that equate your pet with a human being (anthropomorphism), as this can spoil the gravity of your writing.

Things You'll Need.

Writing or typing tools

Book, scrapbook, notebook, etc. if making hard copy memoirs.

Photos, portraits, drawings, etc. of the pet.

Decorative elements, such as stamps, ribbon, glitter, etc.

Desember 27, 2019

how to building a papier mache dino

How to Building a Papier-Mâché Dino.

With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.

Steps.
1. Blow up a balloon, tear newspaper into strips, and make a papier-mâché paste. Blow up a balloon to your desired size. Next, tear some newspaper into narrow strips, about 1 by 3 in (2.5 by 7.6 cm). Lastly, prepare your preferred papier-mâché glue or paste.

The most popular papier-mâché paste is just 1 part water and 1 part PVA glue (white school glue).

Start with just 1 or 2 sheets of newspaper; you can always make more strips.

Don't cut the strips, or the edges will be too sharp and create creases. Tearing them will give you a smoother finish.

2. Dip the strips into the paste, then apply them to the balloon. Run each strip of newspaper between your fingers after dipping it in the paste; this will remove any excess glue. Make sure that the strips are all going in the same direction as you apply them.

Overlap the strips a little, such as by 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm).

Keep the balloon in a cup or bowl so that it doesn't roll around. You may have to let 1 side of the balloon dry first before doing the other.

Leave a coin-sized space at one end of the balloon exposed so that you can pop the balloon later.

3. Apply 2 more layers of papier-mâché. You probably don't need to use the glue for the second layer; the wet strips already adhered to the balloon should be enough for the new ones to stick to. If the balloon starts to get too soggy, however, let it dry a bit, then continue working.

Consider using white tissue paper for as a fourth and final layer. This will give you a smoother base and help the paint show up better.

If you choose to use tissue paper, then make sure that you tear it into 3 by 1 in (7.6 by 2.5 cm) strips as well.

4. Let the strips dry overnight, then pop and remove the balloon. You may have to wait even longer than that, depending on how dry or humid it is in your home. In fact, it would be a good idea to poke your finger under the papier-mâché; if it feels wet, give it a little more time.

This completes your dinosaur's body.

Don't worry about the hole left by the balloon. You'll end up covering it with the dinosaur's head or tail.

5. Tape paper towel roll segments to the balloon for legs. Turn the papier-mâché balloon on its side, then use masking tape to secure the legs to the bottom.

Don't use clear tape; it won't stick to the papier-mâché.

You can also just cut 2 empty toilet paper rolls in half and use those instead.

6. Use cardboard, paper towel tubes, and foil to make the other limbs. Scrunch up aluminum foil into a ball to make a head, and then use aluminum foil shaped into a cone for the tail. The size and shape for each depends on what type of dinosaur that you're making, so look at some reference pictures. Here are some more ideas to get you started.

Triceratops: cut a round, scalloped shape out of cardboard for the fan. Use foil to make the horns.

Stegosaurus: cut triangles out of cardboard for the fins.

Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: use a paper towel tube to make the neck.

7. Tape the pieces to the body with masking tape. Take 1 of your pieces, and hold it against the balloon where you want it to go. Secure it with strips of masking tape until the seam is completely hidden. Again, don't use clear tape, because it won't hold.

Triceratops: tape the fan to the balloon first, then add the head (you may have to use hot glue to secure it). Finish by sticking the horns to the head.

Stegosaurus: tape or hot glue the head to 1 side of the body and the tail to the other. Use strips of tape to add the fins down the back and tail.

Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: tape the head to the long neck first, then tape the head to the body. Add the tail to the other side of the body.

8. Cover the pieces and the seams with more papier-mâché. Start by applying strips of papier-mâché to the seams. After that, cover the shapes themselves. If the pieces feel unstable, add more papier-mâché to the seams.

You may have to tear more strips of newspaper and prepare more papier-mâché paste for this.

Consider making some smaller strips for sharp curves and tight corners.

If the hole from when you removed the balloon is still visible, cover it up with more papier-mâché.

9. Wait for everything to dry. How long it will take for your project to dry really depends on what the weather is like. Papier-mâché will dry a lot faster on a hot, dry, sunny day than on a cold, wet, day. Be patient!

10. Paint the dinosaur as desired, then let the paint dry. Acrylic craft paint will work just fine for this, but you can use poster paint too. You can use realistic colors for your dinosaur, like gray, brown, and green, or you can use fantasy colors, like pink, purple, and blue.

For a nicer finish, paint the dinosaur white first, then let the paint dry. This will give you a clean "canvas" to work on.

Don't forget to add eyes and a mouth. You can paint the eyes, or glue googly eyes on instead.

How long it will take for the paint to dry will depend on what type of paint you're using. Plan to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.

Tips.

Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!

Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.

Things You'll Need.

White school glue, Newspaper, Balloon, Cardboard, Aluminum foil, Empty toilet paper rolls, Masking tape, Acrylic paint or poster paint, Scissors.

Desember 25, 2019

how to making a long necked 3d dino

How to Making a Long-Necked 3D Dino.

With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.

Steps.

1. Fold and cut a plain white paper plate in half with scissors. Fold the plate in half first, then use the crease as a cutting guide. For best results, use the kind that's made from cardstock and has a frilled edge, rather than the kind that's made from thick cardboard with a rim.

Set aside 1 of the paper plate halves; this will make the body.

2. Cut a dino head, tail, and spikes from the other paper plate half. Draw the shapes on the second paper plate half (the other one will be the body), then cut them out. Make sure that the limbs are proportionate to the body. Don't worry about the feet; you will be using toilet paper rolls for that.

Make the spikes about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall and wide.

Make the tail about 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wide at the base, and about 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the paper plate.

If you don't know how to draw a dinosaur head, tail, or spikes, look at pictures of cartoon dinosaurs online or in coloring books.

Use the brim to make the neck, if desired. Cut it off first so that you get a C-shape, then cut it in half. Use 1 of these halves to make the neck.

3. Glue the cut shapes to the other paper plate half. The straight edge of the plate is the bottom of the dinosaur, while the curved side is the back. Glue the tail to 1 end and the neck and/or head to the other. If you made spikes, glue them down the dinosaur's back.

4. Use scissors to cut an empty toilet paper roll into thirds. Keep 2 of the segments and discard the third. This will give you rings that are a little over 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. If you don't have any empty toilet paper rolls, you can use an empty paper towel roll instead.

If you're using an empty paper towel roll, cut 2 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) segments from it.

5. Cut a set of slits into the top of each toilet paper ring. You will be sliding the dinosaur's body into these slits, so make sure that they are directly across from each other. The easiest way to do this would be to squish the rings in half, then cut a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) long slit into each one.

6. Slide the dinosaur into the slits. Take the first roll, and turn it so that 1 slit is facing the dinosaur's head and the other is facing its tail. Slide the bottom edge of the dinosaur's body into the slit. Repeat this process for the other leg.

Slide the legs apart until they are on opposite sides of the plate.

7. Paint the dinosaur, then let it dry. Acrylic craft paints will work great for this, but you can also use poster paint too! Use the same colors and patterns for both the front and back. How long it will take for the paint to dry depends on what you are using. Expect to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.

You can take the dinosaur's body off of its feet in order to paint it. Do the front first, let it dry, then do the back.

Don't forget to paint the eyes and mouth! Alternatively, you can glue on some googly eyes after the paint has dried.

Tips.

Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!

Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.

Things You'll Need.

White paper plate, Empty toilet paper roll, Scissors, Green acrylic paint or poster paint, Glue stick or white school glue.

Desember 25, 2019

how to creating a paper cartoon puppet dino

How to Creating a Paper Cartoon Puppet Dino.

With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.

Steps.

1. Glue a sheet of green construction paper to a piece of thin cardboard. This will make your dinosaur nice and sturdy. If you don’t have any green construction paper, paint the cardboard with green acrylics or poster paint. Let the glue or paint dry before moving on.

The thin cardboard from cereal and snack boxes works great for this!

If you don’t have thin cardboard or construction paper, try green cardstock instead. You can also use poster paper, but you’ll need to paint it.

2. Draw and cut the body, head, tail, and leg shapes from the paper. Look up coloring book or cartoon pictures of long-necked dinosaurs, then break it down into separate body parts. Draw these separately with a pen or pencil, then cut them out. Here are the basic shapes you’ll need.

A long stem with an oval-shaped head, like a brontosaurus or apatosaurus.

A long, tapering tail, like a skinny triangle.

2 rectangular legs.

A mound- or lump- shaped body, like a semicircle but with rounded bottom corners.

3. Make spikes for the dino's back using paper and cardboard if desired. Glue the paper to the cardboard first (or paint the cardboard). Let the paint or glue dry, then draw 4 to 5 triangular spikes. Cut them out, then set them aside.

Use a different color of paint or paper for this. Orange is a great choice, but a lighter or darker shade of green will also work.

You can also make smaller rectangles for nails.

4. Use a pen to poke a hole in the ends of each limb. Make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) away from the center of each edge. A pen or pencil will work just fine for a cardstock dino, but if you used thin cardboard, use a nail to make the holes instead.

You’ll need holes in the following areas: base of the neck, base of the tail, and the top of each leg.

Don’t use a hole punch. The hole will be too big and the brad will fall through.

If you're a child, ask an adult to help you with this step, especially if you're using a nail.

5. Poke 4 holes in the body so that you can secure the limbs. Make 2 holes along the wider, flatter, bottom edge of the body. Poke another set of holes on the sides of the body for the tail and legs. As with the limbs, make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) from the edges.

Don’t poke the neck and tail holes too close to the top; make them closer to the bottom so that your dinosaur has a humped back.

Don’t place the legs too close together. Keep them closer to the bottom corners of the body.

6. Use brads to secure the limbs behind the dinosaur's body. Stick a brad through the front of the neck hole on the body. Slide the neck piece onto the back of the prong, behind the body. Pry open the back of the brad, then press the prongs flat against the back of the dinosaur.

Repeat this step for the tail and both legs. Always add the limbs to the back of the body, not the front.

Make sure that the limbs are facing up as well, otherwise your dinosaur won’t match!

Brad prongs can hurt if they get under your nail. Consider using a butter knife to pry them apart.

7. Glue the spikes to the back of the dinosaur. Flip the dinosaur over so that you can see the back. Draw a line of glue along its back, then add the triangular spikes. Make sure that the flat bases are touching the dinosaur's back while the pointy tips are sticking out.

If you made nails for the dino, glue them to the bottom of each leg.

White school glue and glue sticks will work just fine for this. Hot glue is not recommended because it's too bulky.

8. Give the dinosaur a face. Here is where you can get a little creative. For a simple dinosaur, use a black marker to draw an eye and mouth. For a fancier dinosaur, use hot glue or white school glue to attach a googly eye to the dinosaur's face.

Give your dinosaur more character by adding eyebrows or eyelashes.

Tips.

Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!

Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.

Things You'll Need.

Green construction paper, Orange construction paper, Glue stick, Thin cardboard, 4 brads, Pen or nail, Scissors, White school glue (optional), Googly eye (optional).

Desember 25, 2019

how to making a fancy goldfish lantern

How to Making a Fancy Goldfish Lantern.

Goldfish are a classic fish, and very popular when it comes to decorating a party or room with an underwater theme. Instead of using paper cutouts of goldfish, why not make 3D goldfish out of paper lanterns? They are lightweight, colorful, and very easy to make! You can make a simple goldfish by adding some eyes and fins out of construction paper, or you can get fancier with tissue paper instead!


Steps.

1. Get a solid-colored paper lantern and open it up. The smaller your lantern is, the easier it will be to work with. Look for something that is about 12 inches (30.48 centimeters) in diameter. Most goldfish are orange, but you can make your goldfish any color you want.

2. Trace a circle that is the same size as the smaller opening on your lantern onto a sheet of tissue paper. Choose a different color than your lantern. It can be lighter, darker, or even a contrasting color.

Make the circle as even as you can. If possible, use a pencil to trace around to smaller opening of the lantern.

If both of the openings are the same size, simply choose one of them.

3. Trace a larger circle around the first circle. How much space you leave between the two circles depends on the size of you lantern. The bigger your lantern is, the more space you will need. Start with ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) and go from there.

4. Cut the circles out, then save the ring. Discard the inner circle, or save it for another project.

5. Use a glue stick to glue the ring onto the smaller opening. This will create an open mouth for the goldfish. If you have any excess tissue paper hanging over the opening, you can trim it off with a pair of scissors, or fold it into the lantern and secure it with more glue.

6. Cut two circles out of white tissue paper, and two smaller circles out of black cardstock or construction paper. If you don't have any white tissue paper, you can use white printer paper instead.

7. Glue the black circles onto the white circles, then the white circles onto the lantern. Glue the white circles above the "mouth" and slightly to the side.

8. Cut out two top fin shapes out of tissue paper. Stack two sheets of tissue paper, then cut a fin shape out; this way, you will end up with two matching fins. Use a color that matches your lantern.

Most top fins will be long and somewhat skinny. Make sure that yours is at least 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) tall.

9. Glue them together, except for the bottom ½ to 1 inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters). Use a pair of scissors to trim of any overhanging tissue paper. The double tissue paper layer will help the top fin stand up.

10. Fold the loose ends of the fin down to create two flaps, then attach it to the fish. Place a strip of double-sided tape to each flap, then place the fin on top of the fish. Run your finger across the top of each flap to seal the tape.

11. Cut out two side fins out of matching tissue paper, then attach them to the sides of the fish. You can use a glue stick or double-sides tape for this. Make sure that you are only gluing the bottom edge so that the fins can flap around. You don't have to create double layers for these or fold any flaps.

The side fins can be as long and flowing as you'd like.

12. Cut out two tail shapes out of matching tissue paper. Stack two sheets of tissue paper, then cut a tail fin out; you will end up with two identical shapes. You will be fitting the tail over the back hole on your lantern, so be sure to add ½ of the hole's width, plus an additional ½ to 1 inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters).

13. Glue them together, except for the bottom few inches. How much you leave unglued depends on the excess amount you added. Once again, use a pair of scissors to trim off any overhanging pieces of tissue paper.

14. Fold the loose ends out to create flaps, then attach them to the back of the fish. Position the tail over the back opening. Fold the excess tissue paper over the edges of the opening, then glue or tape them down onto the body of the fish.

15. Use a needle to thread clear string through the top of the fish. Be sure to go under one of the metal ribs to prevent the tissue paper from tearing.

16. Tie the string into a loop, then hang your fish. This fish makes a great decoration for parties or underwater themed rooms. Be careful not to get it wet, however!



Tips

Create a goldfish family and purchase paper lanterns in a variety of sizes.

Paint designs or scales onto your lantern using acrylic paint or glitter glue.

For a more organic look, paint your own paper with acrylic or watercolor paint, and use that instead of the construction paper.

Instead of tissue paper, try organza or tulle! Use hot glue to attach it to the lantern.


Things You'll Need.

Paper lantern.

Tissue paper (same color as lantern, contrasting color, and white).

Cardstock or construction paper.

Scissors.

Glue stick.

Double-sided tape.

String.

Needle.

Desember 24, 2019