how to make a polymer clay penguin

How to Make a Polymer Clay Penguin.

There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!

Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.

1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.

2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.

3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.

4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.

5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.

6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.

7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.

8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.

9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.

Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.

Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.

10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.

11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.

12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.

13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.

14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.

15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.

If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.

16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.

17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.

Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.

1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.

Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!

2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.

3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.

4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.

5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.

6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.

7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.

If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.

8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.

9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.

If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.

10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.

11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.

Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.

Tips.

You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.

Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).

If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.

Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.

Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.

You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.

If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.

If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.

Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.

Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.



Warnings.

Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.



Things You'll Need

Making a Basic Penguin.

Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.

Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).



Making a Penguin Charm.

Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.

Oven, Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Orange acrylic paint, Thin paintbrush, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).

Januari 25, 2020

how to make an art kit

How to Make an Art Kit.

As you begin studying art or creating art of your own, you may find it helpful to start with a selection of basic tools and equipment. Your art kit is your own, so take the ones described here as a guide to build upon or modify for your own style.







Method 1. Making an Adult Kit



1. Decide what you will put everything in. Choose something easy to carry around with you, especially if you want to do art on location or you are taking classes. You could use anything from a shoe box to an old briefcase.

Choose an ample container. You are likely to acquire more art supplies as you continue.

Plan to protect the supplies that are sensitive. A hard sided pencil case or simply a tin or shoe box can keep pencils and other delicate items from breaking.

Give some thought to how you will carry paints, brushes, and whatever you will use to clean them, especially if you're painting away from home.



2. Find or buy some basic equipment. Here's a list of what you might need with a rough estimated price. You will not need all of these items; just select what you would like to use and then build up your kit as you go along. You can always add to it later.

Pencil Set.

Pens.

Sketchbook.

Oil Pastels.

Dry Pastels.

Acrylic paint set.

Paint Brushes.

Water Soluble Pencils.

Colouring Pencils.

Glue.

Scalpel.

Metal Ruler.

Pencil sharpener. A small, handheld one will travel well.

Clay.







Method 2. Making a Child's Kit



1. A child's kit is extremely easy to make, since children are naturally creative and they will use just about anything. Here's a child's list to get started.

Colouring Book.

Safety Scissors.

Colouring Pencils.

Pipe cleaners and other items like that.

Non-toxic glue.

Sketchbook.

Play-doh.

Markers.



2. Include a cheap plastic tablecloth or oilcloth in a child's kit and explain to Mom and Dad that it's to go underneath anything messy: paint, clay, glue, etc. Plastic tablecloths easily cover the whole table and they come large enough for several friends or even the whole scout troop to gather around.



3. With this child's kit it's really up to you. Use anything age-appropriate that they can't hurt themselves with.



Tips.

If you want to skip all the hassle of searching through shops you can find lots of different starter kits for children and adults ranging from £5 to £100.

Leave yourself plenty of room to expand. Art supplies have a way of growing.

If your kit is for a child make sure you buy non-toxic products and safety scissors.

Art kits make great gifts. Try to learn a bit about the artist who will receive your kit so that you do inspire and don't duplicate. For gifts, interesting materials (e.g. fabric, paper, wood) might be a good addition, especially if your artist tends toward mixed media or crafts.

Remember that art is more than drawing and painting. If you find yourself drawn toward other activities or media, make the most of it. There's no reason why an extraordinary work of art can't be made of fabric, concrete, plastic, metal, natural materials, found materials, or anything else that will fit the bill. If you're already skilled at welding, sewing, woodworking or the like, you may already have many of the supplies you need.

Did you give an art kit last year? If it was well received, expand on it this year. New materials and supplies can afford an artist the opportunity to expand and can sometimes supply new inspiration.

Colouring is not an especially artistic endeavour. If the child who will receive this art kit happens to enjoy it, go ahead. If not, encourage creativity and innovation by giving a blank sketch book, or look for the "Anti Coloring Book" series.

Start simple, especially if you are making this kit for yourself. If you want to get into drawing, start with just an ordinary pencil and paper, then as you find yourself improving, invest in some color pencils and a sketch book or a simple prepared kit, obtaining supplies as you need them. Remember: gear doesn't make the artist; practice does. This approach will help you to find your artistic style while saving a bit of money and avoiding the clutter of materials you don't use.

Image titled Wild Rose Artists' Supplies and Custom Framing 7478Experiment. If a particular medium, tool, or other item interests you, give it a try. Don't give up on your first attempt, either. Give yourself a chance to get familiar with a new addition before deciding whether to keep at it.



Warnings.

Always supervise young children when they use anything like glue or scissors.



Things You'll Need.

Art supplies.

Box or bag.

Money.

November 21, 2019

how to organize craft supplies

How to Organize Craft Supplies.

If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.







Steps.



1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.

If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.

Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.



2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.

Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.

Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.

Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.



3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.

Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.

Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,



4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.

Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.

If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.

Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.



5. Keep on sorting.

Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.

Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.



6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.

Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.

For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.



7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.



8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.



9. Finished.





Tips.

Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.

Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.

Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.

Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.

Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.

Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.

Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.

Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.

Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.



Things You'll Need.

Craft supplies.

Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.

Paper to label the containers.

November 21, 2019

how to melt glue sticks

How to Melt Glue Sticks.

Glue sticks can be melted down for a number of applications. Whether used in crafts, manufacturing, packaging, fashion, or in any other creative function, glue sticks are a cheap and easy to come by product. All-purpose or school glue sticks and hot glue gun sticks can both be melted in the microwave, and hot glue gun sticks can, of course, be melted in a glue gun. If handled carefully and done properly, the processes are extremely quick and can help you adhere all kinds of surfaces to one another.







Microwaving Glue Sticks







Remove the glue sticks from their original packaging. All-purpose or school glue sticks can be unscrewed and pulled or broken off from their plastic casings. Hot glue gun sticks simply need to be removed from any packaging or wrappers.

Make sure there are no plastics or other wrappings in or on the glue you want to melt. Most wrappings and plastics are not intended to be melted and can be unsafe to do so.

If your glue stick has a plastic piece through the center, carefully cut the glue away from the plastic using a knife.



Put the stick(s) into a microwave-safe dish. Since the glue will be very messy and hard to clean, use a single-use paper bowl. If you are dedicating the dish to the craft of melting glue sticks, a ceramic or glass mug or bowl will also work.

Be sure the glue sticks are fully inside of the dish. If they overhang the mug or bowl, they will melt outside of the dish.

Start with smaller quantities to test how long your particular glue takes to melt.



Microwave the glue on full power in 20-second intervals. Depending on your microwave and amount of glue, you should at least be able to partially melt the sticks. If there are still solids, microwave the glue for an additional 20 seconds after stirring it with a craft stick or plastic spoon.

Do not leave the microwave unattended. If something goes wrong, you should be there to stop the microwave.

Do not heat the sticks for extended periods of time. It may look like nothing is wrong while it heats, but overheating the glue can create fumes that are unsafe.



Remove the glue from the microwave carefully. You should use it immediately, but be careful as the glue will be quite hot. Depending on how long it was heated, the dish can be hot as well.

Use the glue fresh out of the microwave so it will be easy to apply.

If the glue re-hardens, simply microwave it for another 20 seconds.







Melting Glue Sticks with a Glue Gun





Obtain a glue gun at least as big as the glue sticks. Only use hot glue sticks intended for glue guns—not all-purpose or school glue sticks. If the sticks won’t fit into the glue gun, you cannot melt them. If the sticks are too small, you will just have to use your hand to feed them through.

Make sure your glue sticks are meant for a glue gun. You should not use other types of glue sticks because they can damage your glue gun.



Plug in the glue gun over cardboard or newspaper. As the tip of the gun heats, the gun may start to drip as it melts. By putting a piece of cardboard or newspaper underneath, you can protect your working surface.

Always follow the instructions specific to your glue gun regarding electricity and timing.

Do not leave a glue gun unattended. They can tip over or otherwise cause severe burns if you are not careful.



Squeeze the trigger of the glue gun to feed the sticks. If the sticks match the size of the glue gun, the trigger will allow the stick to press and feed through the heated tip. The glue will then melt and drip out wherever you point the gun.

Do not touch the metal tip of the gun or the melting glue. They will both be extremely hot.

If the glue is not feeding through, it may either be too large of a stick or may still be heating up.

If your glue stick is smaller than the glue gun, you will have to push from the back end of the stick to feed it through.

Use gloves to protect your hands from the heated materials.



Insert another stick once the first no longer feeds through. If the gun or your fingers can no longer safely feed the first stick through the rear of the glue gun, use another glue stick to press it through. It will then be caught by the plastic feeding mechanism and continue melting.





Warnings.

Do not touch melted glue. It will be extremely hot and adhere to your skin, making the burn worse.

Do not inhale melted glue fumes. Some glues are non-toxic, but not all of them are. Regardless, the fumes can be dangerous, and you may need to wear a respirator while working.

November 13, 2019

how to paint wood crafts

How to Paint Wood Crafts.

Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.





Prepping the Wood.



Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.

Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.



Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.

It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.



Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.

Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.

Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4



Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.







Painting and Sealing the Wood.



Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.

You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.



Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.

Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.

Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.



Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.

Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.



Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.

Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.

If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.



Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.



Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.

If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.

If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.







Trying Other Techniques.



Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.



Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.

You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.

You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.



Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.

If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.

If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.



Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.

The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.

Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.



Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.

Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.

You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.





Tips.

You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.

Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!

It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.

You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.

Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.

Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.

Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.

You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.



Warnings.

Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.

Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.



Things You'll.

Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).

140 to 180-grit sandpaper

Primer.

Acrylic paint.

Paintbrushes.

Sealer.

November 10, 2019

20 common embroidery mistakes

20 common embroidery mistakes

Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.



Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.



Not Reading the Instructions

Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.



Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric

Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.



Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle

Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.



Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle

Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.



Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots

Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with ​a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.



Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness

Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.



Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread

Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.



Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen

It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.



Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils

Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.



Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted

When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.



Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame

Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.



Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction

Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).



Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing

Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.



Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting

Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.



Getting Your Project Dirty

Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.



Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type​​

If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.



Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching

You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.



Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly

Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.



Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight​​

Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.



Rushing to Fix a Mistake

If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.



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Acknowledgements

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November 01, 2019