how to make dog yarn

How to Make Dog Yarn.

Dog fur has been used to make a soft and warm yarn, or Chiengora, throughout history. Much like other yarns, the process for making dog fur yarn involves harvesting the fibers, washing the fur, and spinning it into the yarn. Dogs with long fur undercoats are the best candidates for making dog yarn, and many groomers will donate their extra fur to you if you don’t have a dog of your own!

Part 1 Collecting Dog Fur.

1. Brush your dog in the spring, when they’re getting rid of their winter coat. Dogs tend to shed more during the springtime, which makes this a great time for harvesting fur. Use a brush or mitt along the dog’s back, sides, and soft, fluffy areas, and avoid areas like the legs and head. Discard any coarse hairs that you can see in the brush, since you won’t be using them.

Breeds like Samoyed, Siberian Husky, Malamute, Golden Retriever, Newfoundland, Collie, and Sheepdog are great for making dog yarn because they have fluffy undercoats with long fur.

2. Pull the fur out of the brush and place it in a cloth bag. Once you’ve picked out the coarse hairs, use your hand to carefully tug the fur out of the brush and transfer it to a bag. Leave the bag open to allow air circulation, preventing mold and mildew.

If you don’t have a cotton bag, you can use a pillowcase or even a cardboard box for collecting the fur.

Avoid using a plastic bag for collecting the fur since plastic can trap air and allow mold growth.

Don’t overfill the bag or push the fur down into the bag. Packing the fur too tightly can cause mold and mildew to form.

3. Make sure you have at least 4 oz (113 g) of fur. To make any type of yarn, you need a substantial amount of fur. After each collection, use a kitchen scale to weigh all of your yarn to see how much you have. If the fur is thin or short, you might need up to 12 oz (339 g) of fur to get the yarn started.

Keep your bags of fur in a place where your dog can’t get into them, since some dogs like to play with their own fur!

4. Add other types of fibers and fur to make a blended yarn. If you want to make yarn with a variety of textures, you can incorporate wool from a llama or alpaca, or you can harvest fur from different types of dogs. If you don’t have enough fur, or your pet’s fur is shorter than 2 inches (5.1 cm) long, you can use these different fibers to make a stronger, longer strand of yarn.

If your dog doesn’t produce a lot of fur, contact a groomer to see if you can use the excess fur from those dogs, or offer to brush a family member’s dog or a friend’s dog to gather additional fur.

The wool and fur might be a slightly different texture, but that’s okay. As long as you aren’t using coarse hair, the fibers can be blended together through a process called carding.

Part 2 Washing the Fur.

1. Mix warm water and soap in a large bowl. Drip 2-3 drops of gentle dish soap or pet shampoo into a bowl and turn on the warm water. Swish the water around with your hand to make sure it’s an even temperature, and scoop out any bubbles that raise over the top of the bowl.

Too many bubbles can make the fur difficult to rinse, but you do need soap to make the fur clean.

2. Submerge the fur in the water for 10 minutes. Gather the fur and push it down into the water until all of the fibers are completely immersed. Press down on the fur, but don’t tug or pull at it, as this can break the fibers of the fur. Leave the fur in the water to soak out the dirt and debris.

Try to keep the water at around the same temperature to prevent the fur from becoming matted, which is also called “felting.”

3. Remove the fur from the water and refill the bowl with warm water. Use your hand to scoop all of the fur out of the bowl and then dump out the water. Make the new water about the same temperature as the previous water, and make sure there are little to no bubbles in the water.

If there are bubbles in the water, dump the water down the drain and refill the bowl to rinse it.

4. Place the fur in the water and push it down to remove excess soap. Transfer the fur back into the bowl and push it down to squeeze out the soap and any additional debris. If the fur is very soapy, you may need to give it an extra rinse with fresh, warm water.

Avoid pulling or wringing the fur in the water, as this can break the fibers and cause the fur to become matted as it dries.

5. Spread the fur out in the sun to dry for 1-2 hours. Lay down a towel or a mesh screen and position the fur on top of it. Try to spread the fur out as much as possible without breaking it up into small pieces. If there’s wind, place a mesh screen or towel on top of the fur to hold it in place.

If it’s cloudy or rainy outside, leave the fur inside to dry in a well-ventilated area. It may take up to 4 hours for the fur to dry inside.

Part 3 Spinning the Yarn.

1. Card the fur using the same process that you would for wool. Using a pair of hand-carders, place the clean and dry fur in sections on one of the carders. Then, roll and pull the empty carder over the one with the fur in a downward motion 2-3 times to elongate the fur. Continue until the fur is soft and evenly blended,

If you’re blending another type of fiber with the fur, such as alpaca and wool, you can add it in this step by placing it on top of the dog fur in the carder before you begin blending. This will combine the fibers into longer pieces and make them easier to spin.

2. Remove the fur from the carder and roll it into a roll egg. Use your hands or a removal tool to reach underneath the fur on the carder and lift it off of the wires. Once all of the fur is completely off, place the blended fur on a flat surface and use your hands to roll the fur in one direction, forming a kind of tube or cylinder out of the fur.

This incorporates the fibers in different directions, making it easier to form yarn, especially when you’re using blended fibers from different sources, like wool and dog fur or different types of dog fur.

3. Use a drop spindle to easily make a long strand of yarn. Hook the end of your carded and rolled fur onto the end of the spindle and hold the fur in one of your hands. Then, spin the bottom of the spindle and draw the fibers out of the rolled ball of fur. This will create a long strand of yarn from the fur.

If your fibers are very short and you didn’t blend them with another type of fiber, you may find that they aren’t strong enough to hold the spindle up. In this case, you should try hand-spinning the fur to make your yarn.

4. Hand-spin the fur if you don’t have a spindle. Hold the fur in one of your hands, and pinch one end into a point. Then, using the opposite hand, begin twisting and slowly drawing the fur out of your hand. Keep twisting it to make it tight and dense until you have a long strand of yarn.

This method produces shorter, more dense strands of yarn that are good for hats and other small items.

5. Make cozy crafts out of your new dog fur yarn. Try your hand at knitting and crocheting with your new yarn. Dog yarn is soft and warm, and it easily repels water, so try making a hat or scarf with the yarn. You can even make a pair of socks or gloves to keep yourself warm!

If you have a lot of yarn from the fur, you can make a sweater or a blanket.

6. Store the yarn in a dry, well-ventilated area. Even when the yarn is made, the dog fur might still be susceptible to mold and mildew if it gets wet. When you aren’t using the bundles of yarn, keep them somewhere dry with good air circulation. If you have to put the yarn in a bag to store it, use a bag made of a breathable fabric, like cotton.

Try to keep the yarn out of reach of pets, since they may still be able to smell some of their own scent on the fibers and might want to play with the bundles of yarn!

Tips.

Avoid using clippings or overcoat hairs, which can be scratchy and uncomfortable to wear.

Warnings.

Keep in mind that some people are allergic to dogs and shouldn’t wear items that have been made from dog fur, even if it has been washed.

Things You'll Need.

Brush or mitt, Dog fur, Cotton bag, pillowcase, or box, Large bowl, Dish soap, Water, Towel or mesh screen.

Hand carders, Wool or alpaca (optional, for added length/strength), Drop spindle (optional).

Desember 12, 2019

how to make colored salt

How to Make Colored Salt.

Colored salt is used for art and craft, for decoration, for teaching skills with writing or drawing, and for making rangoli for Diwali. It's easy to make, and depending on the exact items in your craft or kitchen cupboard, you might even be able to make it without buying a thing.







Coloring Salt with Paint.



Fill a container with salt. A jug or pitcher, a deep bowl, a plastic food container, etc. will all suffice.



Squeeze a little tempera paint into the salt.



Mix with a spoon or other item. Stir until the paint is evenly distributed through the salt.



Let stand overnight to dry.

Make as many more colors as you need for your project. That way, they'll all be ready at the same time.



Test before using. Check that the salt has dried before using in your craft, rangoli, teaching, etc. projects.









Coloring Salt with Liquid Food Coloring.



Use liquid food coloring for this method. Choose a color or colors that you wish to work with.



Tip the salt into a resealable bag.



Add the liquid food coloring to the salt. It's recommended that you do this gradually, a drop at a time, so that you can intensify the color as needed and stop when you're happy with it. The more drops added, the more intense the color.



Carefully press the air from the resealable bag without losing the salt. Seal. Wait for around a minute before proceeding, to give the salt time to settle.

Image titled Make Colored Salt Step 10

5

Press down on the bag again and again. This will move the coloring around all of the salt. Knead until you can see that the color has permeated all of the salt in the plastic bag.



Done. The salt is now ready for use. If you see any salt that is damp, let it dry before use, by allowing air into the bag and waiting a few hours more.

If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.







Coloring Salt with Gel Food Coloring.



For this method, use gel-based food coloring. You should find it dries instantly and won't leave any liquid, which may be the case with liquid food coloring.



Tip the salt into a resealable bag.



Add the gel food coloring. Transfer the gel using an implement such as a wooden or metallic skewer tip, the end of a butter knife or a toothpick. Only use a small amount at a time, adding a little more if you're not yet satisfied with the color. Gel coloring is fairly vibrant with just a little amount, so you don't want to overdo it.



Carefully press down on the bag to remove excess air. Seal tightly.



Shake or knead the color throughout the bag. Ensure that all of the salt is evenly colored.



Done. Given that this is gel, the colored salt should be ready to use immediately.

If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.







Coloring Salt with Chalk.



Choose a chalk color that you wish to use. Chalks come in a range of pastel and bright colors, depending on where you buy them from. Check art, craft or upmarket toy stores for a wider variety than you might find in traditional stationery or dollar stores.



Cover the workspace with a large sheet of paper.



Pour the salt onto the paper. The amount of salt depends on the amount you need.



Place the piece of chalk on its side, on the salt. Roll the chalk back and forth over the salt on the paper. As you do this, the color from the chalk will color the salt. Keep rolling until you're happy with the color.



Using the paper as a funnel, pour the chalk-colored salt into a resealable bag or a storage container.



Done. The colored salt is now ready to use, or you can store it until needed.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.



Tips.

A rolling pin can be used to distribute the color for the resealable bag color-distributing methods; ensure that there is no air in the bag and roll it up and down until the salt is evenly colored.

Keep colored salt in an airtight container when not in use. Make sure that the lid is on firmly, to prevent spilling it.

For a bath treat, add some essential oil drops as well as the colorant.

If making a lot of colored salt in varied colors, use clean food containers to free up the usual kitchen containers for your cooking and eating.



Warnings.

While these crafts are non-toxic, they are very messy. As such, they are best either supervised carefully or done by older children and adults.



Things You'll Need.

Salt (sea salt, rock salt, table salt, Epsom salts, etc. are all fine to use).

Container for holding salt or a resealable bag.

Colorant.

Stirring implement (such as a spoon, a skewer, a chopstick, etc.).

Storage container (if relevant).

November 17, 2019

how to paint wood crafts

How to Paint Wood Crafts.

Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.





Prepping the Wood.



Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.

Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.



Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.

It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.



Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.

Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.

Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4



Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.







Painting and Sealing the Wood.



Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.

You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.



Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.

Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.

Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.



Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.

Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.



Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.

Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.

If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.



Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.



Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.

If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.

If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.







Trying Other Techniques.



Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.



Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.

You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.

You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.



Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.

If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.

If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.



Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.

The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.

Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.



Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.

Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.

You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.





Tips.

You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.

Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!

It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.

You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.

Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.

Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.

Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.

You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.



Warnings.

Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.

Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.



Things You'll.

Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).

140 to 180-grit sandpaper

Primer.

Acrylic paint.

Paintbrushes.

Sealer.

November 10, 2019

how to keep glitter from falling off

How to Keep Glitter from Falling Off.

If you’re a glitter lover, chances are you’ve run across crafts and body glitters that are susceptible to flaking off and leaving a glitzy, sparkly trail behind you. Luckily, there are a few different ways you can craft with and wear glitter so that it doesn’t fall off so easily. Try using Mod Podge to seal in the glitter in your crafting projects, or mix cosmetic-grade glitter with different beauty products to create your own body glitter.







Using Mod Podge for Crafts.



Add a layer of satin or gloss Mod Podge to your craft. Use a foam brush or paintbrush, depending on your craft, and lightly brush a thorough layer of Mod Podge onto the surface area of whatever you are looking to cover in glitter. Make sure the entire area is coated and that there are no bare spots.

You can even make your own Mod Podge at home to save money!

If you don’t have Mod Podge, you could also use regular white school glue, though school glue often chips off easily over time.

Fun ideas of things you can add glitter to: plates, mugs, containers, candles, fabric flowers, glasses frames, cell phone covers, wood, and notebooks or folders.



Dust, pour, or poof the glitter over the Mod Podged area. Depending on the kind of glitter you are using, you might apply it in a slightly different way. The main thing to remember is that you want to completely coat the Mod Podge in glitter and not leave any empty spaces.

You can also use a foam brush to spread on your glitter if you want a little more control over how much you use.

If you are looking for a high-glitter outcome, you can apply a second layer of Mod Podge and glitter immediately after the first one without waiting for it to dry first (it will take a little longer to dry after the second coat, then, but it will be highly glitterized).



Allow the glitter and Mod Podge to dry for 1-2 hours. Leave your newly glittered item alone for several hours or until it is dry to the touch. Try to leave it in a position so that the Mod Podge and glitter isn’t touching any other surface.

If you are adding glitter to multiple items, this is a great time to continue working on those projects while you’re waiting for others to dry.



Apply a top layer of Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. Once the first layer is dry to the touch, use your sponge or paint brush to add another thin layer of Mod Podge to your item. Use long, even strokes to reduce the appearance of brush lines. Make sure you cover the entire item and don’t leave any raw glitter poking through.

You could also use watered down school glue to create an opaque sealant for your crafting project.

The top layer of Mod Podge acts as a sealant and will prevent the glitter from flaking away.





Let your finished craft dry for 3-4 hours before you use it. Depending on how thickly you applied the Mod Podge, you may need to wait anywhere from 3-12 hours before you can safely use the item without potentially messing up the application. Always check the directions on the bottle for tips and guidelines.

If you have a dehumidifier, you can set your craft in front of it for a speedier drying time.

Never place your item directly in front of a heat source, like an electric heater or a hair dryer, as this may cause the Mod Podge to melt or change consistency so it doesn’t dry correctly.



Coat flaking items with sparkle Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. If you have an item that has glitter that is flaking off, you can apply pre-glitterized Mod Podge to add back some sparkle and lock in the remaining glitter. Simply use a sponge or paint brush to apply a thin, even coat of the sealant to the item, then let it fully dry before you use it again.

Make sure to work on a protected surface, like a counter covered in newspaper or paper towels.



Mix Mod Podge with your glitter of choice for a stronger glitter look. Pour some Mod Podge into a disposable cup or bowl and mix in as much glitter as you want to make your own glitter sealant. You can make the glitter as weak or as strong as you prefer. Then follow the instructions to apply the Mod Podge and let it dry.

You can also apply your glitter Mod Podge, another layer of glitter, and then top it off with the glitter Mod Podge again for even more glitter fun.









Wearing Body Glitter.



Combine body oil and loose glitter for an all-body glitter-wearing option. Instead of sprinkling loose body glitter on your arms and hoping it doesn’t fall off, combine body oil and loose glitter in a travel-sized shampoo container. Shake the container up really well, and then apply it to your arms, legs, chest, or face whenever you need an extra glitter boost.

While you could purchase body oils or lotions that already have glitter in them, it can be less expensive and more fun to do it yourself.



Put petroleum jelly on your skin and add body glitter for a sparkly look. Use a clean makeup or paint brush and apply an even layer of the petroleum jelly to the area you want to cover in glitter (like your collar bones, shoulders, or even your hairline). Then use another clean brush or your hand to gently press loose body glitter onto the jelly.

Visit a cosmetics store to buy body-specific glitter, which is usually a slightly different consistency than the glitter used for crafting.

If you don’t have petroleum jelly, you could also use hair gel as the sticky base for your body glitter.

Use this method in areas that aren’t going to come into frequent contact with other surfaces. For example, it probably wouldn’t work well on your legs if you are going to be sitting and standing and walking around often.



Mix hairspray and glitter to create glitter brow and hair gel. Spray hairspray into a dish, like a small cup or bowl (or even a disposable Dixie Cup), and add loose glitter. Mix it around with a toothpick or a spoolie brush, and then apply it carefully to your eyebrows or to select strands of your hair.

Do not use the glitter and hairspray mix on your eyelashes as it could irritate or infect them.



Wear vibrant lipstick and then add loose glitter for a shimmery lip look. Steer clear of sticky or glossy lipsticks and stick with a cream base to keep the glitter in place better. Put on a layer or two or lipstick, then use your fingers to gently press loose glitter into your lips.

With this trend, you’ll want to avoid pressing your lips together or eating or drinking anything too messy.



Create a glitter stamp from a makeup sponge and loose glitter. Cut a makeup sponge into a fun shape (like a heart or a star) and dip one side of it carefully into loose glitter. Spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly or hair gel on your body where you want the stamp, and then press the makeup sponge onto the jelly to transfer the glitter.

Your glitter stamp should stay on all day as long as it doesn’t brush up roughly against anything else.







Keeping Glitter on Clothes.



Use hairspray for a quick fix on your glitter clothing. Take your item of clothing outdoors or to a well ventilated area, and lay it down completely flat. Then spray a light coat of hairspray overtop of the glitter. Use unscented hairspray if you can. Allow the hairspray to dry completely before you wear the clothing item.

Hairspray is a great, quick fix, but overtime it doesn’t hold up, though you can reapply hairspray when you need to. Long-term, you just have to care for and store glittery clothes very carefully.



Affix glitter to your clothes with fabric glue. Lay out your item of clothing in a clean workspace, and apply the fabric glue in whatever patten you want. Then, carefully shake loose glitter overtop of the glue, coating it so that none of the glue is visible. Let the glue and glitter dry for several hours before picking up the item and shaking off the excess glitter.

You could even make a stamp out of a sponge and decorate your shirt that way (like stars all over a t-shirt), and then shake the glitter on top of the design.



Wash glittery clothes sparingly and let them air-dry. When you go to clean your clothes that have glitter on them, try to wash then only when they really need it. Use cold water and the delicate cycle in the washing machine, and don’t put them into the dryer. Instead, hang them up to air-dry.

You could even take your glittery clothes to a dry cleaner instead of washing them yourself.



When crafting with glitter, try working over a cooking tray. You’ll catch all the excess glitter that falls off and can easily return it to its container.

When making your own body glitter, try to use cosmetic grade glitter rather than crafting glitter.

Store your glittery clothes in plastic bags to protect them from rubbing up against other items in your closet (and to protect your other clothes from getting glitter all over them).





Things You’ll Need.

Crafting with Glitter and Mod Podge.

Mod Podge (satin, gloss, or glitter).

Foam brush or paintbrush.

Disposable cup or bowl.

Craft glitter.

Wearing Body Glitter.

Makeup or paint brush.

Petroleum jelly.

Hairspray.

Lipstick.

Makeup sponge.

Body oil.

Cup or bowl.

Cosmetic grade body glitter.

Keeping Glitter on Clothes.

Hairspray.

Fabric glue.

Plastic baggies.

November 08, 2019