Ping pong ball chicks are an easy way to make little chickens for craft or decoration. They're a great idea for spring craft projects, for Easter decorations or just because you love chickens. The children will enjoy making these neat little chicks and it's an affordable toy or craft.
Steps.
1. Paint the ping pong balls yellow. Make sure the entire ball is painted yellow. Hang or rest in an egg carton to dry. They must be completely dry before proceeding with the next steps.
2. Make the beaks.
Cut long diamonds from the orange felt. You'll need one orange diamond one per bird.
Fold in half to create a beak. Keep pinched with your fingers.
Glue in place on the fold line/area on the ping pong ball. The triangle edges will stick forward to form the beak shape.
Repeat for each chick you're making.
3. Create eyes. Draw on eyes with the black Sharpie marker.
You can also create eyes with eye stickers, but handmade ones are fast and easy to do, plus you have plenty of creative leeway to make the eye shapes any way you like (try anime style, for example), and with or without eyelashes too.
Repeat for each chick you're making.
4. Make the wings for the chick.
For each bird being made, cut out two wings from the yellow felt. Cut the wings in a rounded way, not spiky or too textured. Keep the chick looking soft and cute!
Glue the wings in place on the sides of the chick.
Repeat for each chick you're making.
5. Shape legs from the wire.
At the end of each leg, shape the three "toes." You'll need to play around with the balance a little, to be sure that the toes enable the chick to stand.
When finished, glue the legs firmly in place. Allow to dry completely.
Paint the legs completely using orange paint.
Repeat for each chick you're making.
6. Display the finished chicks. Place on a tabletop or in a basket. If used as a toy, do not give to children under 3, as the small parts are a safety hazard.
Tips.
Looks at pictures of chicks online for design or coloring ideas.
If you want to make the chick look more realistic, add a yellow pom pom for a head, using the ping pong as the body.
Warnings.
Neither the project nor the end result are suitable for children under three, due to the small parts.
Use orange pipe cleaners (chenille sticks) in place of wire if you're concerned about children being scratched by the wire.
Wire feet may scratch tabletops and other fine surfaces. If this is going to be a problem, glue the chick to a square piece of fine card and place that on the surfaces instead.
Things You'll Need.
Yellow paint.
Orange paint.
Black Sharpie or other permanent marker brand.
Orange felt.
Yellow felt.
Thin craft wire (or use orange pipe cleaners and skip the orange paint).
There are lots of ways to recycle plastic soda bottles, and turning them into adorable penguins is one of them. With a little bit of paint, time, and creativity, you can turn 2 plastic soda bottles into an adorable penguin. If you have a lot of plastic soda bottles then you can create an entire penguin family!
Part 1 Assembling the Base.
1. Find 2 plastic soda bottles. The large, 2-liter (67.2-oz) bottles will work the best for this, but you can use smaller soda bottles too. Look for the kind that have the 4 bumps on the bottom. These bumps will make the feet and the hat.
The color of the bottles does not matter. You will be painting it.
2. Remove the labels and wash the bottles. Peel the labels off first, then wash the bottles inside-out with soap and warm water. Be sure to remove all sticker residue. Dry the bottles with a towel.
Wipe the bottles down with rubbing alcohol as well. This will remove any oils that might keep the paint from sticking. Let the bottles dry; this should only take a few seconds.
3. Cut the bottles in half and recycle the top sections. A craft blade will work the best for this, but you can do it with a sharp pair of scissors too. Young children should be supervised during this step.
If the cut edge is jagged, cut it smoother with a pair of scissors.
For a smaller penguin, cut the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) off of the first bottle, and cut the second bottle in half. The shorter half will make the bottom.
4. Tuck 1 bottle inside the other to make a capsule. Turn the bottles so that the cut edges are facing one another. Slide the first bottle into the second bottle by about 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). If the bottles won't fit inside one another, cut a 1⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) slit into 1 of the bottles first; place this edge on the inside.
Make sure that the 4 bumps on the top and bottom of the capsule line up.
5. Glue the bottles together, if desired. If the bottles are loose, glue them together with tacky glue or super glue. Pull the bottles apart, and paint the inside rim of 1 bottle with glue. Slide it over the other bottle.
Hot glue is not recommended because it is too bulky.
Alternatively, you can keep the bottles loose, and use the penguin as a gift box.
Part 2 Painting the Penguin.
1. Paint the entire capsule black, then let it dry. Take the capsule outside or into a well-ventilated area. Set it down on a sheet of newspaper, then coat it with black spray paint. Let the paint dry for 15 to 20 minutes, then turn the capsule over. Spray paint the bottom and let it dry completely.
Hold the can 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) from the capsule, and spray using a side-to-side motion.
If the paint is too thin, let it dry completely, then apply another coat of paint.
If you don't have spray paint, paint the capsule using black acrylic craft paint and a paintbrush.
2. Paint the penguin's face and belly white, then allow them to dry. Use a pointed paintbrush and white acrylic craft paint to outline the white face and belly of the penguin. Fill your outline in using a flat paintbrush. Let the paint dry, then add another layer if the first layer is too thin. Let the second layer dry too, if you added it.
Look at pictures of real or cartoon penguins to get ideas for the placement of the white parts.
Make sure that 2 of the bumps on the base of the capsule line up with the bottom of the penguin's belly. These are its feet!
If you are making a smaller penguin, use the shorter half to make the bottom.
3. Give the penguin a widow's peak, if desired. Use a pointed brush and black acrylic craft paint to draw a V-shape at the top of the penguin's white face. Fill the V-shape in with black paint so that it blends in with the body. For an even nicer finish, made the sides of the V-shape curved so that it looks like Mickey Mouse's widow's peak. Let the paint dry before moving on.
4. Paint 2 eyes and a beak using acrylic craft paint. Use a yellow upside-down triangle for the beak, and 2 black dots for the eyes. For a more realistic beak, paint a yellow or orange circle, then draw a horizontal black line going through the middle.
Look at pictures of cartoon penguins to get ideas.
You can also hot glue 2 buttons or 2 googly eyes for the eyes.
If you don't have yellow paint, cut a triangle out of yellow paper, and glue that on instead.
Part 3 Adding Optional Details.
1. Give your penguin character with lashes, eyebrows, and/or blush. You don't have to do any of these, but they can really give your penguin personality. Use a very thin brush for the lashes and/or eyebrows, or a paint pen. Use a larger pointed brush to apply pink paint for the blush.
If you want to give your penguin visible yellow feet, paint the 2 bumps in the front (under the white bellow) with yellow acrylic craft paint.
2. Paint the top half of the bottle to turn it into a hat. The 4 bumps on top of your penguin's head can easily turn into a hat. Paint a line around the penguin's head, just above the eyes, then fill in everything above that line. Use whatever color you want.
If you have a molded line just below the bumps, you can use that as a guide instead.
3. Let the hat dry, then add some details. You can make the hat look more hat-like by painting or drawing some stripes or spots onto it. Use a thin, pointed paintbrush and acrylic craft paint in a contrasting color to do this. Let the paint dry when you are done.
Use a paint pen for thin stripes or small dots.
4. Glue a pompom to the top of the hat, if desired. You can make the pompom yourself out of yarn, or you can buy it from the kids section of a craft store. Hot glue the pompom to the top of the hat, right between all 4 bumps.
Choose a pompom color that matches the designs on your hat. If you did not add designs, then use a contrasting color instead.
5. Tie ribbon around the neck to make a scarf. Find some ribbon that goes well with the hat. Wrap the ribbon around the penguin's neck, then cross the left end over the right end. Bring the left end up through the gap, then tighten it. This is just like starting to tie a pair of shoes!
Glue both ends of the ribbon to the penguin so that they stay down.
If you are turning this into a gift box, make sure that you keep the ribbon below the seam.
You can also cut a long, skinny strip out of felt, and use that instead of ribbon. Cut fringes into each end for additional charm.
Question : How do we make the eyes?
Answer : Cut out two small black circles, and two slightly larger yellow circles. Glue the black circles onto the yellow circles, and glue those onto the white face.
Question : We don't have to remove the bottle cap?
Answer : If you have removed the cap, you will have to tape or otherwise plug the hole on the top to "sculpt" the rounded top of the head on, so it is not recommended to remove the cap. However, taping or a cork replacement can be used.
Question : Can I use a plastic bottle?
Answer : Yes, but it may be hard to paint.
Tips.
If you want your penguin to have a pointy hat, discard 1 of the bottom halves and keep 1 of the top halves. Use the top half as the hat.
Use paintbrushes made from sable or taklon bristles. Do not use boar bristle, horsehair, or camelhair.
Spray the penguin with varnish or sealer, if desired. Do this after you finish painting, but before you add pompoms and scarves.
You can spray the capsule with paint primer first to help the paint stick better.
If you are worried about the paint chipping, spray the capsule with paint primer before you start painting.
Warnings.
Use low-temp hot glue guns to avoid blisters and burns. Do not use high-temp hot glue guns.
Things You'll Need.
2 plastic soda bottles, Craft blade, Black spray paint, Acrylic craft paint (white, yellow, and black).
Acrylic craft paint, 2 contrasting colors, Flat and pointed paintbrushes, Ribbon or felt, Pompom, Hot glue, Tacky glue or super glue.
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Blow up a balloon, tear newspaper into strips, and make a papier-mâché paste. Blow up a balloon to your desired size. Next, tear some newspaper into narrow strips, about 1 by 3 in (2.5 by 7.6 cm). Lastly, prepare your preferred papier-mâché glue or paste.
The most popular papier-mâché paste is just 1 part water and 1 part PVA glue (white school glue).
Start with just 1 or 2 sheets of newspaper; you can always make more strips.
Don't cut the strips, or the edges will be too sharp and create creases. Tearing them will give you a smoother finish.
2. Dip the strips into the paste, then apply them to the balloon. Run each strip of newspaper between your fingers after dipping it in the paste; this will remove any excess glue. Make sure that the strips are all going in the same direction as you apply them.
Overlap the strips a little, such as by 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm).
Keep the balloon in a cup or bowl so that it doesn't roll around. You may have to let 1 side of the balloon dry first before doing the other.
Leave a coin-sized space at one end of the balloon exposed so that you can pop the balloon later.
3. Apply 2 more layers of papier-mâché. You probably don't need to use the glue for the second layer; the wet strips already adhered to the balloon should be enough for the new ones to stick to. If the balloon starts to get too soggy, however, let it dry a bit, then continue working.
Consider using white tissue paper for as a fourth and final layer. This will give you a smoother base and help the paint show up better.
If you choose to use tissue paper, then make sure that you tear it into 3 by 1 in (7.6 by 2.5 cm) strips as well.
4. Let the strips dry overnight, then pop and remove the balloon. You may have to wait even longer than that, depending on how dry or humid it is in your home. In fact, it would be a good idea to poke your finger under the papier-mâché; if it feels wet, give it a little more time.
This completes your dinosaur's body.
Don't worry about the hole left by the balloon. You'll end up covering it with the dinosaur's head or tail.
5. Tape paper towel roll segments to the balloon for legs. Turn the papier-mâché balloon on its side, then use masking tape to secure the legs to the bottom.
Don't use clear tape; it won't stick to the papier-mâché.
You can also just cut 2 empty toilet paper rolls in half and use those instead.
6. Use cardboard, paper towel tubes, and foil to make the other limbs. Scrunch up aluminum foil into a ball to make a head, and then use aluminum foil shaped into a cone for the tail. The size and shape for each depends on what type of dinosaur that you're making, so look at some reference pictures. Here are some more ideas to get you started.
Triceratops: cut a round, scalloped shape out of cardboard for the fan. Use foil to make the horns.
Stegosaurus: cut triangles out of cardboard for the fins.
Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: use a paper towel tube to make the neck.
7. Tape the pieces to the body with masking tape. Take 1 of your pieces, and hold it against the balloon where you want it to go. Secure it with strips of masking tape until the seam is completely hidden. Again, don't use clear tape, because it won't hold.
Triceratops: tape the fan to the balloon first, then add the head (you may have to use hot glue to secure it). Finish by sticking the horns to the head.
Stegosaurus: tape or hot glue the head to 1 side of the body and the tail to the other. Use strips of tape to add the fins down the back and tail.
Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: tape the head to the long neck first, then tape the head to the body. Add the tail to the other side of the body.
8. Cover the pieces and the seams with more papier-mâché. Start by applying strips of papier-mâché to the seams. After that, cover the shapes themselves. If the pieces feel unstable, add more papier-mâché to the seams.
You may have to tear more strips of newspaper and prepare more papier-mâché paste for this.
Consider making some smaller strips for sharp curves and tight corners.
If the hole from when you removed the balloon is still visible, cover it up with more papier-mâché.
9. Wait for everything to dry. How long it will take for your project to dry really depends on what the weather is like. Papier-mâché will dry a lot faster on a hot, dry, sunny day than on a cold, wet, day. Be patient!
10. Paint the dinosaur as desired, then let the paint dry. Acrylic craft paint will work just fine for this, but you can use poster paint too. You can use realistic colors for your dinosaur, like gray, brown, and green, or you can use fantasy colors, like pink, purple, and blue.
For a nicer finish, paint the dinosaur white first, then let the paint dry. This will give you a clean "canvas" to work on.
Don't forget to add eyes and a mouth. You can paint the eyes, or glue googly eyes on instead.
How long it will take for the paint to dry will depend on what type of paint you're using. Plan to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
White school glue, Newspaper, Balloon, Cardboard, Aluminum foil, Empty toilet paper rolls, Masking tape, Acrylic paint or poster paint, Scissors.
How to Make a Paper Snake Using Construction Paper.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. You can easily make a snake out of construction paper rings. The more rings you add, the longer your snake will be. Here's a list of what you will need to make such a snake:
Several sheets of construction paper, Red paper, Scissors, Glue stick, tape, or stapler, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes.
2. Find some construction paper. You will need at least three pieces. You can use all one color to make a solid-colored snake. You can also use different colors if you want a striped snake.
3. Cut the paper into 1½ to 2 inch (3.81 to 5.08 centimeters) thick strips. You will need at least 16 strips. The more you make, the longer your snake will be.
Consider stacking the paper and cutting several sheets at the same time. This will make the cutting part faster.
4. Make a ring out of a strip of paper and glue it shut. Pick up a strip of paper and bring the two ends together. Overlap them by about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters). Use a glue stick to hold them together. You can also use tape or a stapler instead.
Do not use white school glue or tacky glue. It does not dry fast enough. Your snake will fall apart before the glue dries.
If you are using a stapler, ask an adult to help you.
5. Slip a strip of paper through the ring and glue the ends together. Keep repeating this step until you run out of strips of paper. You can make your snake just one color, or you can make it many colors. You can give your snake a pattern, or make the colors random.
6. Add the tongue. Cut a skinny rectangle from red paper and cut a V shape into one end to make the fork. Fold the flat side over by about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) to make a tab. Glue the tab to one of the end rings.
7. Add the eyes right above the tongue. You can draw them on using a marker or crayon. You can also glue them on using some white school glue or tacky glue.
Things You'll Need.
Several sheets of construction paper, Red paper, Scissors, Glue stick, tape, or stapler, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. This is a simple snake that you can make out of a paper plate. It lays flat on your table, but springs up into a long snake when you hang it! Here's a list of what you will need:
Paper plate, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, spongers, etc, Pencil or pen, Scissors, Crayons, markers, or googly eyes.
Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, String, thumbtack, hole punch (optional), Rhinestones, glitter, etc (optional).
2. Cut off the raised edge of a paper plate. Be sure not to go too far into the middle or else it may not be big enough.
If you don't have a paper plate, use a small plate to trace a circle onto a large sheet of paper. Cut the circle out using a pair of scissors, and use that circle instead.
3. Paint or decorate the paper plate. You can paint the snake however you want. You can use a paintbrush, a sponge, or even your fingers. Snakes come in many different colors and patterns. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Paint the plate a solid color and let the paint dry. Next, dip a sponge into a different color and tap the excess paint off onto a paper towel. Then, dab the sponge all over the plate. If you want to add another color, wait for the first one to dry. This will give you a scale-like effect.
Wrap a sheet of bubble wrap (bubble-side-out) around a rolling pin and secure it with tape. Pour two colors of paint onto a palette and gently roll the pin across. Next, roll the pin across the plate. You will get a scale effect.
You can also color the other side of the plate to make the snake's belly. Most snakes have a plain, light colored belly. Do this once the top of the snake dries.
4. Draw a spiral on the back of the plate. Make the spiral about half an inch thick. It doesn't have to be perfect, but try to make it even all the way around. The center of the spiral will be the snake's head, so make it rounded.
You are drawing the spiral on the back so that you won't see it on the top.
5. Cut out the spiral shape. Start front the outside of the spiral, and work your way in. Try to do this right on the line, because you don't want the line to show on the finished product.
6. Add more decorations to the snake. At this point, you can paint on some extra designs to make your snake even more special. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Paint thick stripes across the spiral to make a striped snake, Paint Xs or diamond shapes across the spiral to make a diamond pattern.
Glue some colorful rhinestones using white school glue or tacky glue. Try not to add too many, or your snake will be too heavy.
Make some squiggles and patterns on the snake using white glue. Then, shake some glitter onto the glue. Tap off the excess glitter and let the glue dry.
7. Add the eyes onto the front of the head. You can draw the eyes on using a marker or crayons. You can also paint the eyes on. If you have googly eyes at home, you can glue them on using white school glue or tacky glue.
Remember, the head is the rounded part in the middle of the spiral.
8. Add the tongue. Cut a thin 1 to 2 inch (2.54 to 5.08) long rectangle out of red paper. You can also use a piece of thin, red ribbon. Cut a V shape into one end of the rectangle. This will be the snake's forked tongue. Lift the head up and glue the tongue under it.
9. Punch a hole through the snake if you want to hang it. You can punch the hole at the end of the tail, right between the eyes, or even in the tongue. Thread a piece of string through the hole and tie it in a knot. Use the other end of the string to hang the snake from a door knob, a stick, or even a thumbtack in the wall.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Do not let these snakes to get wet.
Adult supervision is required for cutting steps.
Things You'll Need.
Paper plate, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, spongers, etc, Pencil or pen, Scissors, Crayons, markers, or googly eyes, Red paper or ribbon.
White school glue or tacky glue, String, thumbtack, hole punch (optional), Rhinestones, glitter, etc (optional).
A craft room is a place where you want to let your creative energies take over. Organizing your craft room will take some work but the end result is worth the effort. You will want to start by gathering and sorting all of your available craft supplies. Then, find places to store these items where they will be easy to grab and use in the midst of a project. Use organizing as an opportunity to display those items that inspire you as well.
Method 1 Sorting Your Craft Supplies.
1. Gather all of your craft items. Grab a basket and walk throughout your living space grabbing any and all craft supplies and tools. Carry them into your designated craft room and place everything in the middle of the floor. Once you think that you’ve gotten it all, go back through one more time just to be certain. Make sure to open all of your drawers and cabinets, as craft supplies can often ‘hide.’
Likewise, go through your craft room and identify any objects or items that do not belong there and move them out. They may need to go in a ‘staging area’ in another room, so that you can concentrate your energy on your craft area.
2. Sort your supplies out according to item type. Look over your supply pile and begin to build smaller piles based upon different categories of supplies. For example, put all of your wrapping paper together. All fabrics should go together initially. After these first piles are finished, you can go back through them and narrow them even further according to size and color. For example, put all of the red wrapping paper together.
At this point your room may be in controlled chaos, so be careful walking around or you may slip on one of your piles. For that reason, try to keep other people out of the room as well, at least during this stage.
To keep you from feeling overwhelmed, bring an egg timer into the room and set it for 15-minutes. When the timer goes off, take a 5-minute break. Then, re-set the timer and start again. This will keep you motivated to work at a steady pace without burning out.
3. Decide what to donate. As you sort, identify items that are worth donating. Perhaps you have multiples of some items or maybe leftover supplies from projects that you’ve completed and moved on from. Make sure that whatever you donate is safe for another user. For example, don’t donate rusty scissors or any cracked glass items.
Various charity organizations, schools, and libraries will gladly accept donations of craft supplies as long as they are in good condition. This is a great opportunity to share your interest in crafting with other people.
Depending on the amount of items that you have, some charities will actually come to your house and pick them up for you. This may be a good opportunity to do organize other areas of your home as well.
4. Create a trash pile and dispose of it. As you sort, identify items that need to be thrown away. This could be items that you no longer find useful, but that aren’t suitable for donation due to condition or quantity. You should also trash any supplies that are no good anymore, such as dried out glue or frayed ribbons. Ask yourself if you’ve used the item in the past year and if you haven’t odds are it needs to be thrown away or donated.
Take the trash out after you’ve finished sorting the main pile. If you wait you are likely to leave it there and it will become an eyesore and will slow your organizing progress.
5. Repeat this process every few weeks. As life goes on, many of your supplies will likely wander out of your craft space once more. To keep your area tidy and useful for you, go through a sorting and cleaning process fairly often, especially after completing a major project.
Also, devote at least ten minutes after you finish working in your craft room for picking up and storing items in their new proper places. Devoting even this small amount of time can make a major difference in the long-term appearance of your craft room.
Method 2 Implementing a Storage System.
1. Store similar items together. You’ll want to keep your supplies together in their sorted piles as you place them in their designated storage spots and containers. Extra-small items will need to be placed in extra-small containers and will probably be grouped together for storage and then usage.
Keep an eye out for items that may appear similar but that have slightly different functions. These situations may require that you divide up your storage system even further. For example, you’ll want to divide your fabric scissors from your paper scissors.
2. Use plastic bins. These are the number one storage option when organizing a craft room. They come in a wide variety of sizes and are easy to stack. They also fit well within a cube shelf. You can see inside the clear bins, making it easy to find an item that you are looking for.
Depending on how you arrange your bins, you will want to purchase ones that open on the top or via a front panel. Look for lids that snap on tightly to avoid spilling your supplies.
Bins are also especially useful when working with messy items such as paints. In addition, they contain fumes from paints as well.
Make sure to purchase extra bins, and to leave space in the ones that you currently use, for new supplies that you may purchase.
3. Arrange items by color. Store and display your craft supplies according to the color wheel. This will create a quick way for you to find an item that you need for a particular project. It will also lead to beautiful displays of items within the room itself. For example, if you have a bunch of balls of yarn, sort them according to color (reds next to orange tints, etc.) and place them in a wooden cube bookcase for quick access and visual appeal.
4. Repurpose materials as storage containers. Almost any container that is sturdy with a lid can be reused as storage in your craft room. Try to think creatively and find jars, buckets, etc. that you find visually appealing already. They will be even more attractive when holding your supplies.
Here are a few unique ideas. To house smaller items such as sequins, use little plastic pill storage boxes that you can get at a pharmacy or grocery store. For colored beads, place them in a spice rack by color for ease of access and beauty. Small tins or colored buckets make a great storage option for pens, pencils, and paintbrushes.
For a more industrial look, grab a magnetic knife holder from your kitchen, attach it to the wall of your craft room, and use it to display your sharp cutting devices and scissors. This works best when positioned close to your standing work area.
Look at crafting sites and blogs online or buy inspirational craft books/magazines in order to find additional design ideas that may suit your particular space and taste.
5. Label everything. This is especially important when storing items in plastic bins or opaque containers. As you put away every storage container, make sure that it has a clear and visible label that you can see from the center of your craft room. For example, the bin with tape should say, “Tape-clear.”
You can get as fancy as you’d like with the labels. Some people prefer to use a standard label maker while others print directly from online templates. You can even make your own labels by hand.
6. Install shelving. You want to get the most use out of all surfaces within your room, so don’t ignore the walls. Look around your craft room and consider adding shelves to many of the open spaces on the walls. Think creatively about shelving and use materials such as recycled bookcase shelves or even old metal signs repurposed as shelves.
Method 3 Organizing Your Space for Creative Inspiration.
1. Locate your work table for ease of access. Get a sturdy table that you’d feel comfortable working on and place it in the most convenient space in the room, usually right in the middle. You want to be able to access it from all sides. Consider adding a chair or stool, unless you plan to stand all of the time when crafting.
In addition to your main table, you may want another one placed against the wall that will almost act like a workbench. You can hang items on the wall next to it for quick grabbing access.
2. Keep your favorite supplies close by. The materials that you are using for a current project, or those that you consistently rely upon, should be placed close to your table workspace. For example, if you are a seamstress, do not hide your best pair of cutting shears in a labeled storage bin in the closet.
3. Emphasize the natural light when possible. If you have a choice of room, pick a room with ample light sources. This will help to save you from eye strain as you work on your projects. You can also supplement the light by adding interesting (and bright) lamps. Hanging lamps often work the quite well as they are out of the way.
4. Create an inspiration board. Pin up photos or drawings to a fabric-covered poster board. Or, hang a magnetic board on your wall and attach items to it. Clip or write down quotes that you like and attach them to the board. Let it keep growing until you feel the need to remove some items into storage. This can be a fairly chaotic, but inspirational space, in an another organized room.
To add even more visual appeal, use colorful and creative stick-pins to attach items to the board. You can even go with pieces of patterned tape too.
5. Decorate with beautiful craft items. If you love your yarn, don’t hide it, display it. As you sort out items at the start of this process, look for those supplies that you find particularly visually stunning or exciting. Try to create spaces out in the open to store these items. For example, lengths of ribbon can be stored and displayed by hanging a peg board on the wall.
6. Create more access by manipulating your space. Don’t be afraid to use every inch of your craft room for some storage, display, or work purpose. You can paint inspirational quotes on the ceiling and hang items from it too. You can go vertical up the walls and increase your reach by employing footstools. Typically neglected areas, such as the backs of doors, can be put to good use with hanging storage pouches.
Increase your visibility in closet spaces by removing the doors and replacing them with a rod and curtain. When you first enter your room, sweep aside the curtain and you’ve got instant access and visibility into this space.
Tips.
You might want to do an inventory as you sort and organize, in order to determine what supplies you need to reorder.
Warnings.
Think about design and utility, but also safety. If you will have kids in your craft room, watch how you display sharp tools, etc.
If you’re a glitter lover, chances are you’ve run across crafts and body glitters that are susceptible to flaking off and leaving a glitzy, sparkly trail behind you. Luckily, there are a few different ways you can craft with and wear glitter so that it doesn’t fall off so easily. Try using Mod Podge to seal in the glitter in your crafting projects, or mix cosmetic-grade glitter with different beauty products to create your own body glitter.
Using Mod Podge for Crafts.
Add a layer of satin or gloss Mod Podge to your craft. Use a foam brush or paintbrush, depending on your craft, and lightly brush a thorough layer of Mod Podge onto the surface area of whatever you are looking to cover in glitter. Make sure the entire area is coated and that there are no bare spots.
You can even make your own Mod Podge at home to save money!
If you don’t have Mod Podge, you could also use regular white school glue, though school glue often chips off easily over time.
Fun ideas of things you can add glitter to: plates, mugs, containers, candles, fabric flowers, glasses frames, cell phone covers, wood, and notebooks or folders.
Dust, pour, or poof the glitter over the Mod Podged area. Depending on the kind of glitter you are using, you might apply it in a slightly different way. The main thing to remember is that you want to completely coat the Mod Podge in glitter and not leave any empty spaces.
You can also use a foam brush to spread on your glitter if you want a little more control over how much you use.
If you are looking for a high-glitter outcome, you can apply a second layer of Mod Podge and glitter immediately after the first one without waiting for it to dry first (it will take a little longer to dry after the second coat, then, but it will be highly glitterized).
Allow the glitter and Mod Podge to dry for 1-2 hours. Leave your newly glittered item alone for several hours or until it is dry to the touch. Try to leave it in a position so that the Mod Podge and glitter isn’t touching any other surface.
If you are adding glitter to multiple items, this is a great time to continue working on those projects while you’re waiting for others to dry.
Apply a top layer of Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. Once the first layer is dry to the touch, use your sponge or paint brush to add another thin layer of Mod Podge to your item. Use long, even strokes to reduce the appearance of brush lines. Make sure you cover the entire item and don’t leave any raw glitter poking through.
You could also use watered down school glue to create an opaque sealant for your crafting project.
The top layer of Mod Podge acts as a sealant and will prevent the glitter from flaking away.
Let your finished craft dry for 3-4 hours before you use it. Depending on how thickly you applied the Mod Podge, you may need to wait anywhere from 3-12 hours before you can safely use the item without potentially messing up the application. Always check the directions on the bottle for tips and guidelines.
If you have a dehumidifier, you can set your craft in front of it for a speedier drying time.
Never place your item directly in front of a heat source, like an electric heater or a hair dryer, as this may cause the Mod Podge to melt or change consistency so it doesn’t dry correctly.
Coat flaking items with sparkle Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. If you have an item that has glitter that is flaking off, you can apply pre-glitterized Mod Podge to add back some sparkle and lock in the remaining glitter. Simply use a sponge or paint brush to apply a thin, even coat of the sealant to the item, then let it fully dry before you use it again.
Make sure to work on a protected surface, like a counter covered in newspaper or paper towels.
Mix Mod Podge with your glitter of choice for a stronger glitter look. Pour some Mod Podge into a disposable cup or bowl and mix in as much glitter as you want to make your own glitter sealant. You can make the glitter as weak or as strong as you prefer. Then follow the instructions to apply the Mod Podge and let it dry.
You can also apply your glitter Mod Podge, another layer of glitter, and then top it off with the glitter Mod Podge again for even more glitter fun.
Wearing Body Glitter.
Combine body oil and loose glitter for an all-body glitter-wearing option. Instead of sprinkling loose body glitter on your arms and hoping it doesn’t fall off, combine body oil and loose glitter in a travel-sized shampoo container. Shake the container up really well, and then apply it to your arms, legs, chest, or face whenever you need an extra glitter boost.
While you could purchase body oils or lotions that already have glitter in them, it can be less expensive and more fun to do it yourself.
Put petroleum jelly on your skin and add body glitter for a sparkly look. Use a clean makeup or paint brush and apply an even layer of the petroleum jelly to the area you want to cover in glitter (like your collar bones, shoulders, or even your hairline). Then use another clean brush or your hand to gently press loose body glitter onto the jelly.
Visit a cosmetics store to buy body-specific glitter, which is usually a slightly different consistency than the glitter used for crafting.
If you don’t have petroleum jelly, you could also use hair gel as the sticky base for your body glitter.
Use this method in areas that aren’t going to come into frequent contact with other surfaces. For example, it probably wouldn’t work well on your legs if you are going to be sitting and standing and walking around often.
Mix hairspray and glitter to create glitter brow and hair gel. Spray hairspray into a dish, like a small cup or bowl (or even a disposable Dixie Cup), and add loose glitter. Mix it around with a toothpick or a spoolie brush, and then apply it carefully to your eyebrows or to select strands of your hair.
Do not use the glitter and hairspray mix on your eyelashes as it could irritate or infect them.
Wear vibrant lipstick and then add loose glitter for a shimmery lip look. Steer clear of sticky or glossy lipsticks and stick with a cream base to keep the glitter in place better. Put on a layer or two or lipstick, then use your fingers to gently press loose glitter into your lips.
With this trend, you’ll want to avoid pressing your lips together or eating or drinking anything too messy.
Create a glitter stamp from a makeup sponge and loose glitter. Cut a makeup sponge into a fun shape (like a heart or a star) and dip one side of it carefully into loose glitter. Spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly or hair gel on your body where you want the stamp, and then press the makeup sponge onto the jelly to transfer the glitter.
Your glitter stamp should stay on all day as long as it doesn’t brush up roughly against anything else.
Keeping Glitter on Clothes.
Use hairspray for a quick fix on your glitter clothing. Take your item of clothing outdoors or to a well ventilated area, and lay it down completely flat. Then spray a light coat of hairspray overtop of the glitter. Use unscented hairspray if you can. Allow the hairspray to dry completely before you wear the clothing item.
Hairspray is a great, quick fix, but overtime it doesn’t hold up, though you can reapply hairspray when you need to. Long-term, you just have to care for and store glittery clothes very carefully.
Affix glitter to your clothes with fabric glue. Lay out your item of clothing in a clean workspace, and apply the fabric glue in whatever patten you want. Then, carefully shake loose glitter overtop of the glue, coating it so that none of the glue is visible. Let the glue and glitter dry for several hours before picking up the item and shaking off the excess glitter.
You could even make a stamp out of a sponge and decorate your shirt that way (like stars all over a t-shirt), and then shake the glitter on top of the design.
Wash glittery clothes sparingly and let them air-dry. When you go to clean your clothes that have glitter on them, try to wash then only when they really need it. Use cold water and the delicate cycle in the washing machine, and don’t put them into the dryer. Instead, hang them up to air-dry.
You could even take your glittery clothes to a dry cleaner instead of washing them yourself.
When crafting with glitter, try working over a cooking tray. You’ll catch all the excess glitter that falls off and can easily return it to its container.
When making your own body glitter, try to use cosmetic grade glitter rather than crafting glitter.
Store your glittery clothes in plastic bags to protect them from rubbing up against other items in your closet (and to protect your other clothes from getting glitter all over them).
This classic, goofy sock toy has been a favorite of children and adults for years. Making something this popular may sound like a daunting task, but it is actually quite easy. To make a sock monkey of your own, follow these steps.
Making the Legs.
Find two clean socks. The best ones will be ones with heels and toes in contrasting colors to the rest of the sock. One sock will be used to make the body, legs, and head, and the other will used to make the arms, tail, face, and ears.
These monkeys were traditionally made with “Rockford Red Heel Socks.” If you have striped socks, those work well, too. If your socks have cuffs, be sure to undo the seam carefully; the cuff length is needed for the length of the monkey.
Turn both socks inside-out.
Lay one sock with the heel flat down. You may have to flatten the sock against its natural crease to make this happen. If it's not cooperating, grab an iron and give it a quick once-over
Draw a center line on the sock from the toe to approximately one inch from the colored heel. This will become the split in the monkey’s legs. Again, note that the heel is actually hidden beneath the sock at this point, so you may have to flip it over briefly to double-check your positioning.
Erasable fabric marker works best for drawing. Make sure before you cut that your line is indeed on the halfway mark -- a monkey with one fat leg and one skinny leg is not a happy monkey.
With the sock still folded flat, sew up one side of your marked line and back down the other. Leave approximately 1/4 inch (.6 cm) between the line and each of your seams.
You can either use a sewing machine or sew by hand. If you're using a sewing machine, use your walking foot.
Cut along the line between your two seams. The monkey’s legs and colored feet will now be clearly visible.
Making the Body and Head
Turn the sock right-side out and stuff the entire thing. Polyfill stuffing is available at all craft supply stores. The upper half of the sock will become the torso and head.
The amount of stuffing is up to you. How firm do you want your monkey? If the sock is thin, you may want to err on the side of under stuffing, as overstuffing it may cause it to stretch.
Sew the head and/or hat. If your sock opening is the same color as the body of the sock, just make a nice rounded head and stitch it shut. If it is a contrasting color, you will need to decide if you want to cut it off (making a shorter body for the monkey) and make the head as usual or use the excess coloring as a "hat" by not stuffing the last inch or two and cinching the opening into a cone shape.
To make the head: Stitch around the neck with quarter inch stitches. Use sturdy thread such as embroidery floss. Pull the stitches snugly until you get the size neck you want and knot the ends. Round out the head area with stuffing as desired and stitch the top opening shut.
If you are making a hat, start working with the cuff. Gather the tip with large stitches and snug/cinch them closed. Fold the raw edges to the center and tuck inside. Then, stitch the opening closed. Winter ready!
Making the Arms, Tail, and Ears
Cut the second sock into sections as shown. Though the pattern is only drawn on the top, make sure to cut through both layers.
Fold both arm pieces in half lengthwise. Then sew up the open side in a gentle arc around the dark ends; the dark ends will become the paws and the opposites (open ends) are where the arm will be stuffed and then attached to the body.
Keep all of these sections open-ended. Make sure they're turned inside-out as you work! If they're not, all your seams will be very, very rough.
Fold the tailpiece in half lengthwise. Then sew up the open side and in a gentle arc around the dark end as you did with the arms; the dark end will become the tip of the tail and the opposite, open end is where the tail will be stuffed and attached to the body.
Fold each ear in half and cut across the crease. Then, sew in a gentle arc following the rounded sides, leaving the flat side open. The opening is where you will stuff each ear and then attach it to the body. Noticing a pattern?
If you'd like, you can then fold the ears again, forming a vertical line down the middle of the ear (giving it depth like a real ear has). Basically, pinch the edge you just sewed in and bring the two points together. Slip stitch the two sides together.
For now, do nothing with the muzzle (formerly the heel). That part's saved for later.
Flip the sewn pieces right-side out and stuff them. You should now have two arms, two ears, a tail, and an unsewn, unstuffed nose.
The tail may prove to be a bit of a problem. You could try to stuff it using regular polyfill stuffing and a pencil to poke it through, or you could use batting or part of an aquarium filter. Both the batting and the filter are a bit firmer and will create a more uniform-looking tail in the long run.
Attach the tail to the rump. Position it carefully and slip stitch it all the way around.
Attach the arms to either side of the body. You may want them a little higher than your natural inclination says; this will give your sock a more monkey-like posture.
Assembling the Face and Ears
Trim away the edges of the heel piece if necessary. Since this will form the muzzle, try to make sure the piece of fabric is uniform in color. Note that, since the outermost edges will be covered, you do not have to make them perfect.
Fold the bottom of the muzzle under and sew it to the bottom of the monkey's chin. Make sure no raw edges are visible along the bottom, but leave the top open for now.
Add stuffing to make the muzzle puff out. You may want to refer to existing images of sock monkeys as to how this should look. The best sock monkeys seem to have a muzzle that puffs out at nearly a 90º angle.
Fold the raw edge under and stitch the top edge to the face. The muzzle should take up a large amount of the area for the head -- don't worry about needing space for the rest of his features.
Go ahead, give your monkey a mouth! Along the toe line of the muzzle (which should be dead center) branch stitch in a contrasting color of thread.
If you'd like nostrils, simply embroider two small rectangles above the mouth about 1" (2.5 cm) apart.
Fold the raw edges of each ear to the inside and stitch them closed. Stitch the completed ears to the sides of the head. They should be in line with where the eyes will be, just above the muzzle. Make sure they stick out from the front!
Add button eyes. To give your monkey whites on the outside of his eyes, glue or sew the buttons onto a bit of white felt. Then, with thread of a contrasting color, sew on the felt just above the muzzle. You now have an adorable sock monkey!
For a non-demonic looking monkey, stick to black buttons. The size you need depends on the size of your monkey. And if you're giving it to a child, either avoid the buttons entirely or make sure they're sewn on really well !
Tips.
Important: when stuffing the sock monkey, use small pieces of stuffing. Using bigger pieces may be quicker, but the results aren't satisfying at all. The project will come out lumpy and, well, ugly. Smaller pieces leave a smooth finish. It may help to use the eraser end of a pencil to gently push stuffing into place.
To add personality to your monkey you can cut out a red heart and put it in your monkey's chest before you sew it up.
You can use fabric glue to add the eyes instead of sewing them on.
Further ideas.
Sew a tiny red vest for the monkey with buttons down the front to make him/her look like an organ grinder's monkey.
Embroider a mouth line on the nose or eyebrows for added expression.
Cinch elbows, knees, wrists and ankles for the monkey using the same technique as for the neck.
Add a pom pom to the hat for a winter monkey, or a flower to the hat for a spring monkey, etc.
Sew a fabric banana into the monkey's hand.
Sew a tiny red heart on the monkey's chest.
Knit a scarf for more winter fun.
If you don't have stuffing, you can use old pieces of t-shirts, crushed and dried flower petal, used dryer sheets, tissue paper, yarn, grass or rice.
If you don't have any buttons, you could use googly eyes instead.
Bright colored socks work well. Also spots and stripes are great.
Eyes can also be drawn onto your monkey. Embroidery is another option.
Warnings.
If you're giving the sock monkey to a child under three years old, don't use buttons for the eyes. If they come loose, they could end up in the child's mouth. Instead, embroider the eyes on, use child-safe doll/cat eyes, or use nontoxic fabric paint or markers to draw the eyes or use felt eyes.
Use only socks you have permission to cut up.
Scissors and needles are sharp. Be careful when using them.
Things You'll Need.
One pair of socks with contrasting colored heels and toes.
Stuffing.
Embroidery floss or yarn to match your sock.
Sewing supplies: needles, sewing machine, scissors, etc.
A bright pen/marker to copy the pattern onto the socks.
More often than not, cats can be found lounging in the sun or snoozing the day away. But don’t let them fool you—they love to play. Cats love climbing, chasing, and jumping just as much as any other pet.
But all the climbing and scratching can lead to wear and tear. Instead of sacrificing your beloved couch or armchair, find some enriching toys to give your feline to keep them happy and healthy. That way, everyone can live in peace.
While perusing the pet store shelves, you may notice that most toys, treats, and beds are lacking in style. For some reason, a lot of pet products are behind the curve when it comes to aesthetically pleasing design. With DIY, you can maintain your dream home’s modern decor while giving your pet everything you need.
This DIY scratching post is sure to please your furry friend. Plus, it will look great hanging on your wall! Say goodbye to boring beige cat furniture.
Gather Your Supplies
This DIY requires a few easy-to-find supplies. To make it even more budget-friendly, head to a second-hand store to find a frame. You can easily upcycle it at a low cost.
Here’s what you’ll need:
Small rug
Scissors
Measuring tape
11" x 14" picture frame
Measure and Cut Your Rug
You may not even have to head to the store to find the carpet material for this project. If you remodeled your home, you likely already have some leftover carpet in the garage.
But if not, you can find carpet samples at local carpet retailers. Or you can use an indoor/outdoor decorative rug (like the one we used), a door mat, or even a bath rug. Just be sure your material isn’t unraveled or damaged—that’s the cat’s job.
Before using your scissors to cut your carpet, use a measuring tape to measure the size of the picture frame. Then, use those measurements to cut a rectangular section of your carpet that will fit perfectly inside the picture frame. If the first try isn’t perfect, just keep trimming away.
Your regular pair of scissors will sometimes work for this, but it depends on the material you use. If it’s difficult to cut with scissors, try using sharp shears.
Secure in Frame
Once you have cut your material to match the size of your frame, it’s time to secure them together.
First, remove the sample photo and glass cover from your picture frame. These parts aren’t necessary and you can keep them for future crafts or recycle them if you have no use for them.
If your picture frame has a kickstand on the back, it may be necessary to remove it. This frame will be hung on the wall and a kickstand on the back may make it too bulky, causing it to stick out when it’s hung up.
Secure your piece of rug or carpet inside your picture frame. Be sure to apply the cardboard backing piece that came with the frame onto the back to make sure things stay in place.
Display
The moment we’ve all been waiting for is here! Now that your DIY is finished, you’ve got an adorable piece of wall decor that looks great and satisfies your kitty to no end. Every cat will appreciate this fun toy. And when it wears out, just replace the material inside to keeping things looking new.
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Acknowledgements
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