Bird houses can be as plain or as ornate as houses for people, but, as a subject for an art work, they are a lot less intimidating. While we enjoy seeing and thinking about homes for birds, we might live where it is impractical to install an actual bird house. The solution is to paint a picture of bird houses. Because of its simplicity, this project is virtually fail proof, even for a non-artist. So, go ahead, tackle architecture, but begin on a bird's scale.
Steps.
1. Cut a rectangle of 140 lb. cold pressed watercolor paper and draw a pencil line 2" (5cm) up from the bottom edge to create a base for the houses to stand on. Later, you can paint this to represent a limb of a tree or a platform.
2. Draw a simple house starting with a square 3½ in (10cm) on a side, in pencil to represent the body of the house. To construct a slanted roof, the center point (1¾", 5cm) and draw a line upward a few inches. Close the roof by dropping two lines from the center point to each side of the house.
3. Alternatively, trace a miniature wooden birdhouse purchased from the craft or discount store. Simply place the house on your paper, back down and draw around it in pencil.
4. Repeat drawing houses until you have four in a row. Allow a slight space between them. Arrange them according to your taste, varying sizes and shapes.
5. Add details to each house such as entry holes for the birds, a picket fence, shingles, siding, or anything you wish. Go to the internet to look for ideas.
6. Embellish the houses with vines, flowers, leafs, beds, berries, tree branches, etc. Use the vines as a device to intertwine and connect the houses and it will lead the viewer's eye through the composition.
7. Put a bird or two in the picture. Draw one from your imagination or go online for pictures of birds. Put them standing still or in motion, flying into the picture.
8. Prepare your watercolors by adding water to each pad if you are using pan paints. If you are using tube paints, set up your palette with primary, secondary and neutral colors. Remember to leave the center part of the palette open for mixing colors.
9. Set out brushes, a ½" (1cm) flat for big areas, and some pointed ones in various sizes.
10. Begin painting by pulling a color for the body of the house, diluting it with clear water and making a puddle large enough to cover the area you wish to fill.
Repeat the process with a different color for each house.
Paint the houses, the area beneath the houses, and the sky.
Allow the paper to dry before attempting to paint over it or the colors will run into one another. Use a hairdryer to hasten the process, if desired.
11. When dry, paint the greenery, flowers, birds, sun and any other touches you can think of.
How to Make a Tweeting Bird in a Cage from Plastic Straws.
Tips.Try a technique called negative painting for a white object, such as a picket fence or a daisy. You simply paint around the object, keeping the white paper as your white color. Use a small, pointed brush and dip from the puddle on your palette that is the color the flower or fence is standing against.
Dry the paint before attempting to add a new layer.
If tiny hairs get in the paint from the brush, allow the area to dry and brush the hairs away. If you try to pick them off with your fingers, you will mar your wash and leave finger marks.
There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!
Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.
1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.
2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.
3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.
4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.
If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.
5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.
6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.
7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.
8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.
9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.
Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.
Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.
10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.
11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.
12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.
13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.
14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.
15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.
Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.
If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.
16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.
17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.
Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.
1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.
Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!
2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.
If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.
3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.
4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.
5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.
6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.
7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.
If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.
8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.
9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.
Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.
If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.
10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.
11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.
Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.
Tips.
You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.
Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).
If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.
Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.
Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.
You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.
If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.
If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.
Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.
Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.
Warnings.
Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.
Things You'll Need
Making a Basic Penguin.
Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.
Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).
Making a Penguin Charm.
Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.
Papier-mâché eggs are both easy and fun to make. You can paint them bright colors and use them as Easter decorations, or you can paint them to look like real wild bird eggs and display them in your room. They do take a few days to dry, but they are a great, hands-on activity, which many children love. When you are finished, you can even fill them with candies, and crack them open later!
Method 1 Making Basic Eggs.
1. Blow up a balloon, tie the end into a knot, and set it down in a small cup. The cup will prevent the balloon from rolling away while you work.
2. Mix 2 parts white school glue with one part water in a small bowl. This will be your papier-mâché glue.
3. Tear some paper into small squares or rectangles. Newspaper works best, but you can also use plain newsprint paper from the craft store instead. Don't cut the paper; the ragged edges will help the paper seal together and give you a smoother finish.
Consider using both newspaper and tissue paper. This way, when you do multiple layers, you will be able to see which one you are working on.
Avoid using plain printer paper or construction paper. Both are too thick and too stiff for this project.
4. Dip a paper strip into the glue, and place it onto the balloon. Drag the strip across the edge of the bowl as you pull it out. This will remove any excess glue. Place it down near the top of the balloon. Use your fingers or a paintbrush to smooth the paper down so that it lays flat against the balloon.
5. Continue applying the paper strips until the balloon is completely covered. Overlap the strips slightly as you work from one end of the balloon to the other. Work your way from the top of the balloon all the way down to the tail end. Do not cover the tail, or you won't be able to remove the balloon.
6. Apply a second layer of paper. You don't have to dip these strips of paper into the glue. Simply stick them to the wet paper that's already on the balloon, and use your fingers or a paintbrush to smooth down the edges.
Consider using a tissue paper or plain newsprint for this layer. This way, you will be able to see what's cover and what isn't.
Two layers is ideal for eggs that you want to cut open. If you want a sturdier egg, apply a third layer. You may have to use some extra glue for this one.
7. Hang the balloon up to dry. Use a clothespin to clip the balloon to a hanger or clothesline. Wait for it to dry completely before moving on. It may take up to 2 or 3 days.
8. Pop and remove the balloon. Once the egg is completely dry, gently tug the balloon tail up so that you expose a bit of the balloon. Pierce it with a pin or pair of scissors and wait for the balloon to deflate. Once it is completely deflated, pull it out and discard it.
9. Cover the hole with 2 to 3 layers of paper and glue and wait for it to dry. Use the same technique as you did for the rest of your egg. If you wish to fill your egg, then do so before covering up the hole.
10. Paint the egg a solid color using acrylic or tempra paint and wait for it to dry. To make the paint really stand out, coat the entire egg using white primer and let it dry. Once you have your white base, you can paint your egg any color you want.
11. Add patterns to the eggs, if desired. Once your base color has dried, you can paint designs onto it. You can also draw designs using glitter glue or puffy paints instead.
Great Easter designs include: stripes, dots, and squiggles. Try to use soft, pastel colors.
12. Consider giving the eggs a final coating of gloss. Once all the paint has dried, spray or paint the eggs with a glossy sealer. You can even use a glittery sealer to give it some extra sparkle.This will help make them more durable.
If you'd like, you can cut the egg in half using jagged, zigzag lines so that it resembles a cracked open egg. When you are done, you can fill each half with fake grass, and place a little chick or bunny figure in each.
Things You'll Need : Water balloon, Newspaper, Paintbrush, Water, White school glue, Small cup, Scissors, Clothespin.
Method 2 Making Tissue Paper Eggs
1. Blow up a water balloon, tie the end into a knot, and set it down into a cup. The cup will hold the balloon sturdy while you work.
2. Pour some liquid starch or decoupage glue into a bowl. You can also mix your own glue by using 2 parts white school glue and 1 part water.
3. Cut the white tissue paper into 1½-inch (3.81 centimeters) squares and set it aside. This will make the base for your egg. One sheet will be enough to coat three eggs.
4. Cut the colored tissue paper into 1½-inch (3.81 centimeters) squares and set it aside. This will make the outside of your egg. You can make it all one color or many different colors. Some crafters have noted that lighter colored tissue paper, such as yellow, shows the layering and overlapping more.
To make polka dot eggs, punch a ¾-inch (1.91 centimeters) circle in the center of your square using a scrapbooking hole punch. Discard the circles, and use the squares so that you get white polkadots on your egg.
5. Start applying the base layer using the white tissue paper. Brush on some of your glue onto the balloon, and press a piece of white tissue paper onto it. Smooth it down with a brush dipped in more glue. Overlap the pieces as you cover the entire egg.
Start applying the tissue paper at the top of the balloon and work your way towards the tail. Don't cover the tail up.
6. Apply the colored layer. If the tissue paper on the balloon is already damp, you do not need to apply more glue. Simply press a piece of colored tissue paper onto it, and smooth it down with a little more glue. Remember to overlap the pieces by a little.
If you are making polka dotted eggs, be careful not to cover up the white polka dots!
7. Hang the balloon up to dry overnight. You can do this by clipping the tail of the balloon to a hanger or to a clothesline. This can take 2 to 3 days.
8. Pop and remove the balloon. Make sure that the balloon is completely dry, then gently tug on the balloon tail until you expose a bit of the balloon. Pierce the balloon with a pin or a pair of scissors. Wait for the balloon to deflate, then pull it out and discard it.
9. Fill the egg with candy, if desired. Small candies, such as chocolate eggs, work great! Be careful not to overfill the egg; it is still very fragile. If you do not wish to fill your egg, you can move onto the next step.
10. Cover the hole with 2 to 3 more layers of colored tissue paper. Use the same technique as you did when first covering the egg. Let the patch covering the hole dry before moving on.
Because these eggs are made from colorful tissue paper, they don't need to be painted. You can still decorate them, however, with glitter glue if you'd like.
11. Give the eggs away as gifts or use them as decorations. To open the eggs, simply tear them apart. They make great gifts for Easter baskets!
Things You'll Need : Water balloon, White tissue paper, Colorful tissue paper, Paintbrush, Liquid laundry starch or decoupage glue, Small cup, Scissors, Clothespin.
Question : Can I fill a paper mache creation with something to make it heavier?
Answer : Sure! Candy works well if you want it to be like a pinata.
Question : Which one is stronger?
Answer : Method 1 will give you a stronger, more durable result, as newspaper is thicker than tissue paper.
Question : Which method is better to create the eggs?
Answer : It depends on what you are looking for. The 1st method is better for making stronger eggs, for example, to put heavier objects in. However, the 2nd method is better if you want to put candy in, as they are much easier to open up, especially for children. If you're thinking of using them for decorations, method 2 would make for prettier, delicate decorations indoors, but method 1 is more advisable for outdoor decorations as the eggs will be more durable against the weather.
Tips.
For a vintage design, use newspaper and don't paint the eggs. Instead, give them a coat of glossy varnish.
You should tear newspaper and newsprint, but you don't have to tear tissue paper.
You can also do this project using regular balloons as well, but it will take more time to dry.
If the egg collapses when you remove the balloon, stick a pen, pencil, or chopstick into it and push the dents out as best you can.
Paint the egg to resemble real bird eggs. Look up pictures of interesting bird eggs online, and try to copy them as best you can. You can create speckles by splattering paint over the egg.
For something quick and easy, decorate your egg with stickers. If this is for Easter, use Easter themed stickers.
If you made your egg using newspaper and wish to paint it, add a layer of blank newsprint or white tissue paper. This way, the letters won't show through.
Decoupage shapes cut out of paper onto your finished egg instead of painting the designs.
Punch out shapes out of tissue paper using scrapbook punches, and press these shapes onto your egg while it is still wet.
Try printed paper that has patterns on it. Origami paper and printed tissue paper is great for this. Avoid using thick or glossy paper, such as gift wrap; it is too thick and stiff for this project.
Warnings.
Do not get impatient when it comes to drying. The papier-mâché must be completely dry before you remove the balloon. If you remove it too soon, the whole egg will collapse!
Balls provide endless entertainment for kids and adults alike, so make your own if you want a fun toy to play with this weekend. But there are balls for other occasions, too. If you’re having a rough week, for instance, create a stress ball to squeeze when you just want to scream. Or get creative and make balls out of things like rubber bands, fabric, and even cheese!
Method 1 Making a Bouncy Ball.
1. Combine school glue, cornstarch, and any add-ins in a bowl. Stir together the 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch until they’re thoroughly combined, using a spoon or wooden stick. If you want to add any extras, like food coloring or glitter, do so now.
You can use either white or clear school glue. If you use white glue and don’t add any coloring, your ball will be white.
Fun Add-Ins for Your Bouncy Ball
Sprinkle in glitter for a little extra sparkle.
Squeeze in a few drops of food coloring to make a ball in your favorite hue.
Stir glow in the dark paint into the glue for a ball that can be used at night.
Swirl 2 colors of food coloring together if you want a multi-colored masterpiece.
2. Stir warm water and Borax together in a separate bowl. Mix 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water and 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax until the Borax is completely dissolved. Stir vigorously to ensure there are no clumps of powder left in the bowl.
Heat the water in the microwave or on the stove until it’s warm to the touch. It shouldn’t be boiling.
You can find Borax in the laundry aisle of a store.
Borax is safe to use, but it's poisonous if ingested in large quantities. If you or your child get it in your eyes or mouth, contact poison control immediately.
3. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of the Borax mixture in the bowl with the glue. Do not stir the ingredients together when you add them. Simply pour the Borax and water into the other bowl containing the glue and cornstarch.
Set aside the remaining Borax mixture if you plan on making more balls.
4. Let the mixture sit for 15 seconds. This allows time for the Borax to react with the glue, making the polymers of the glue link together which will create the ball shape. If you start stirring right away, the bouncy ball may not form or harden properly.
Set a kitchen timer or use the clock app on your phone to keep track of the time.
5. Use a spoon to combine the ingredients until they’re too thick to stir. Within 1 to 2 minutes, the mixture will thicken. Stir vigorously while the mixture is still liquid to make sure the ingredients are blended well.
Choose a sturdy spoon, like a metal or thick plastic one. Something flimsy, like a plastic spoon, will likely break off in the goo.
If you’ve made homemade slime with Borax, this process is very similar.
6. Remove the mixture and roll it between your hands to form a ball. Once the mixture is too thick for your spoon or stick, pull it out of the bowl and place it between your palms. Roll it around by moving your hands in circular motions until the ball is no longer sticky.
The more you handle the ball, the more firm it will become.
If you’re having trouble getting rid of the stickiness, dip the ball in the Borax water, then roll it a little more. This should remove any tacky texture.
7. Let the ball harden for about 10 to 20 minutes before you use it. This dries the ball a little more, so that it’s extra bouncy. If the ball starts to flatten while it sits, simply roll it back into shape when you’re ready to play with it.
Once you’re done playing, store the ball in an airtight container to prevent it from drying out. Keep it in a cool, dark place, like the pantry.
If stored properly, your ball could last for up to 6 months. It won’t go bad, but it will dry out eventually.
To make more bouncy balls, mix up another batch of glue and cornstarch and use some of the leftover Borax and water mixture.
Things You'll Need.
2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water, 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch.
Spoon or wooden stick, 2 cups or small bowls, Food coloring or other add-ins (optional), Airtight container (optional).
Method 2 Creating a Paper Soccer Ball.
1. Trace 20 hexagons on white paper, then cut them out. Draw your hexagons on the paper with a template, making each side the exact same length. Use scissors to carefully cut along the traced shapes, then set them aside.
If you want a life-sized soccer ball, make the edges 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.
To make a template, use a ruler to draw the hexagon shape on a piece of cardboard. Cut it out and trace around it with a pencil to make each paper hexagon.
Cardstock is the best type of paper to use for this craft. It’s sturdy enough to hold the shape of the ball yet still easy to fold.
2. Trace and cut out 12 black pentagons with sides the same length. The edges of the black and white pieces need to be equal so that they fit together properly. Use a template to draw your pentagon shapes, then cut them out with scissors.
For example, if you’re creating a life-sized ball, make your pentagon sides 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.
You can use a different color paper instead of black, or get creative and make a multi-colored ball with a variety of shades.
Cut a pentagon template out of cardboard to trace on the black paper so that the pieces are all equal size.
3. Fold up a thin border around each hexagon and pentagon. This edge will allow you to build your ball seamlessly, so there are no gaps between pieces. You only want to fold enough of each edge to have a place to apply glue or tape. Keep the border size equal on each piece so they all remain the same size after folding.
To fold the same border on each piece, trace the border before you fold, using a ruler to ensure each edge is an equal width.
Use a straight edge, like a ruler, to help you fold the edges in a perfect line.
If the edges are crooked, re-fold them. They have to be straight for your ball to be the right shape.
To make folding easier, snip off the corners of your border before you fold. This allows you to fold the edges up without dealing with corners that crumple up or stick out.
4. Apply glue or tape to the folded edges of each piece. This is how you’ll stick the the pieces together to form the ball. Swipe glue on each of the edges of all the hexagons and pentagons. You can also use a strip of tape on the edges instead.
A glue stick will work better than liquid glue to prevent the paper edges from getting soggy.
If you are slow at putting the ball together, you may want to apply the glue as you go, rather than all at once. Otherwise, it will dry out on the final pieces by the time you get to them.
5. Attach 5 white hexagons to 1 black pentagon. On a standard soccer ball, each black piece is completely surrounded by white pieces. Press 1 white hexagon onto each edge of a black pentagon. Hold the edges together until the glue dries.
If you’re using a glue stick, the glue will dry almost instantly. Wait about 5 to 10 seconds while pressing the edges against one another.
6. Continue gluing the pieces together in this pattern, forming the soccer ball. On the other edges of the white hexagons that you attached to the original pentagon, glue more black pentagons. Don’t forget to glue the white edges that touch each other, too. Once you connect all of the pieces, you’ll have a ball shape.
A black piece should never touch another black piece. However, white edges will touch other white edges.
If you’re having trouble visualizing the pattern, look up an image of a soccer ball online as a guide.
You can stuff the ball with shreds of paper if you want to create a fuller shape.
Things You'll Need.
Black and white sheets of paper, Scissors, Cardboard.
Pencil or pen, Glue stick or tape, Homemade Stress Ball, 12 in (30 cm) latex balloon.
Method 3 Using Play Dough for a Homemade Stress Ball.
1. Use your hands to roll play dough into a long shape. Place a pile of play dough on a flat surface, then gently roll it out with the palms of your hands. This should form what looks like a snake.
It doesn’t matter what color play dough you use, since it will just be going inside the balloon.
Buy pre-made play dough or make your own at home.
If you buy play dough, use one 5 oz (140 g) container per balloon.
2. Insert the play dough into the balloon. Stretch the neck of the balloon open as wide as you can, then stuff the play dough snake into the balloon. The play dough should fill the balloon just to the base of the neck.
If there is a lot of empty space in the balloon, add more play dough.
Stretch out the neck of the balloon before you insert the play dough to loosen it up.
This step is easier if you have someone else hold the balloon open while you put the play dough inside.
3. Tie a knot in the neck at the top of the balloon to secure it. This will keep all of the play dough inside the balloon. Wrap the neck around your finger to make your knot, tying it as tightly as possible.
If you want extra protection, you can place your original balloon inside another empty balloon before tying it shut. This adds a double layer in case you poke a hole.
You can decorate your stress balls with permanent markers if you’d like. For example, you could draw a funny face or write a calming phrase, like “just breathe.”
Things You'll Need.
Permanent marker (optional).
Method 4 Forming Other Types of Balls.
1. Build a rubber band ball for a creative way to store supplies. Instead of tossing your rubber bands in a drawer, keep them together in 1 big ball. Fold up a thick rubber band to form the center, then begin wrapping all of other bands around it. Criss-cross directions often to round out the ball.
You can also wrap your bands around a bouncy ball or crumpled-up piece of paper for a larger ball.
Start with smaller rubber bands, then add the larger ones as the ball gets bigger.
2. Sew a fabric ball if you want a soft toy for kids or pets. Young children, particularly babies, could get injured by hard rubber balls. Instead, stitch together a ball out of strips of fabric, then stuff it with polyfill for a plush feel or use dried beans for a bean bag texture.
This also makes a great pet toy for dogs to chew on or for cats to bat around. If the ball is for a pet, pick a durable fabric like vinyl or nylon and keep your pet in sight as it plays with the ball.
You can use a sewing machine to make your ball or sew it by hand.
Cotton is ideal for kids’ toys since it’s a long-lasting and soft fabric that’s easy to wash.
3. Use ice to make a ball for a unique cocktail add-in. Not only do ice spheres look much cooler than regular cubes floating in your drink, they also melt slower, so your beverage doesn't get watered-down as quickly. Fill a silicone ice ball mold with water, then place it in the freezer for at least 6 hours, or until the balls have set and hardened.
For extra flair and flavor, add things like fresh herbs or edible flowers into the water in the mold before it freezes.
You can buy ice ball molds from a kitchen store or online retailer.
4. Make a cheese ball if you’re having people over for dinner or a party. When it’s your turn to play host or hostess, whip up a cheese ball as an impressive appetizer. Mix together cream cheese and other soft cheeses, shape it into a ball, then chill it in the refrigerator. Roll it in chopped nuts and other garnishes before serving.
You can substitute mascarpone, neufchatel, or goat cheese for the cream cheese if you’d like.
Pair any type of softer cheese with the creamy base, depending on your taste preferences. As long as it’s not a dry, crumbly cheese like parmesan, it will work.
Serve a cheese ball with finger foods for dipping, like crackers, pretzels, or raw veggies.
Warnings.
Borax is poisonous. Get help immediately if you accidentally ingest it or get it in your eyes.
Never let young children handle Borax without close supervision.
A balloon pet can be made in various ways, each making use of the balloon shape and then being decorated as you please. In each case, these little "companions" aren't meant to last long; they're just a fun toy or decoration for a short time.
Method 1 Blown up balloon pets.
1. Make a balloon pet using a blown-up balloon. There are lots of possibilities here, so this section will provide a few suggestions and you can experiment with your own as well.
2. Make a balloon dog. Choose a balloon in the color you'd like the dog to be, such as brown, white, black, grey or any other color.
Blow up the balloon with helium gas. Tie it into a knot, to keep the gas in place.
Draw floppy ear shapes onto two pieces of card. Color in (if needed), then cut these out. Attach using glue to each side of the balloon, at the non-knotted end.
Draw the face directly onto the balloon. Draw a kidney shape facing downward for the snout and draw a circle in the middle for the dog's nose. Draw large eyes above the snout and blacken them in.
Tie a string on the base. The dog balloon can now be played with or used as a party decoration.
3. Make a balloon fish. Choose an orange or yellow balloon for making the fish.
Blow up the balloon. You can use air or helium gas, whichever is easiest. Tie a knot in it, to keep the air in place.
Draw two fin shapes on orange or yellow card. Cut these out. Attach them with glue to the sides of the balloon, with the back of the fins facing toward the knotted end of the balloon.
Cut out a tail fin from the orange or yellow card. Glue over the knotted area of the balloon.
Stick on two large eyes made from card. Or, simply draw these on with markers.
The fish balloon is now ready for play or to be placed out as a decoration for a party.
4. Make a balloon puppy. This is a fun one for the kids to drag around with them, and is easier if you only have air rather than helium for filling the balloons.
Blow up the balloon. Tie a knot in it, to keep the air in place. (Air is best as it allows the balloon puppy to hover around the kid's feet as it is being walked.)
At the knot end of the balloon, create the dog's face. Draw a round nose just above the knot and blacken it in. Draw a smiling mouth (two semi circle arcs either side of the knot). Draw whisker dots above each smile arc (about four is sufficient).
Either attach floppy ears made from card, or draw them on the dog. They look more effective if made from card though.
Cut out a length of string or cord. Tie onto the balloon knot. This becomes the puppy's leash.
Allow the kids to take the balloon puppy for a walk.
Method 2 Water balloon pet.
1. Fill a water balloon with water.
2. Tie off the balloon to keep the water intact.
3. Decorate the balloon.
Draw a face on it. Use markers. If you want to stick on googly eyes, do so.
Stick on hair if wished. You can use strands of yarn stuck on with craft glue. If you would like a bow in the hair, cut one from paper and glue on.
Draw on any clothing or accessory features, if relevant. For example, a tie, or necklace.
4. Finished. The water balloon pet can be played with for a while.
Method 3 Balloon stress relief pet.
1. Make a stress relief pet that will last a little longer than the other projects suggested in this article. This "pet" can be held in the palm of the hands and squeezed to reduce tension and exercise the hand muscles.
2. Choose a balloon color. Any color is fine, these "pets" can be all colors of the rainbow.
3. Stretch the open end of the balloon a bit. Stretch it back and forth to make the opening a little looser. This will help placing the filling inside.
4. Funnel in the filling for the balloon. This can be either sand or play dough, depending on your preference. Kids tend to like the play dough because it can be shaped into all sorts of funny configurations that keep their shape after molding.
5. Knot the balloon. Ensure that the sand or play dough do not come into the neck area of the balloon; if you have overfilled it, remove some of the filling, to allow you to tie a knot in the balloon.
6. Decorate the balloon pet. Draw eyes, a smile, a nose, freckles, etc. It's fun to let the kids do this for themselves, as they can style the face in their own way.
7. Add hair. This step is optional but can make the pet look funnier. Add small spikes of yarn to the knot end of the balloon; glue to attach. Keep these pieces short, so that they stand up.
8. Done. The balloon pet is now ready for play or stress relief.
Method 4 Balloon animal from balloon art.
1. Make a balloon pet using balloon art twisting techniques. There are many different animal shapes that you can make using this technique, allowing you to have a whole menagerie of balloon pets if wished.
Question : Mine is ugly. How do I make it pretty?
Answer : Experimenting with different faces and designs can help you to make this craft your own. If you're not happy with how it looks the first time, try making it again in a different color or with a different face. Remember, practice makes perfect!
Tips.
Dispose of used balloons thoughtfully. They should be encased inside your normal trash, so that animals cannot find the balloon remains and eat them. Balloons inside animals can kill if they get wrapped around internal organs or cause blockages.
Things You'll Need : Balloons, Markers, Decorative elements, Scissors and glue, Card, String or cord, Sand or play dough as filling.
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Blow up a balloon, tear newspaper into strips, and make a papier-mâché paste. Blow up a balloon to your desired size. Next, tear some newspaper into narrow strips, about 1 by 3 in (2.5 by 7.6 cm). Lastly, prepare your preferred papier-mâché glue or paste.
The most popular papier-mâché paste is just 1 part water and 1 part PVA glue (white school glue).
Start with just 1 or 2 sheets of newspaper; you can always make more strips.
Don't cut the strips, or the edges will be too sharp and create creases. Tearing them will give you a smoother finish.
2. Dip the strips into the paste, then apply them to the balloon. Run each strip of newspaper between your fingers after dipping it in the paste; this will remove any excess glue. Make sure that the strips are all going in the same direction as you apply them.
Overlap the strips a little, such as by 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm).
Keep the balloon in a cup or bowl so that it doesn't roll around. You may have to let 1 side of the balloon dry first before doing the other.
Leave a coin-sized space at one end of the balloon exposed so that you can pop the balloon later.
3. Apply 2 more layers of papier-mâché. You probably don't need to use the glue for the second layer; the wet strips already adhered to the balloon should be enough for the new ones to stick to. If the balloon starts to get too soggy, however, let it dry a bit, then continue working.
Consider using white tissue paper for as a fourth and final layer. This will give you a smoother base and help the paint show up better.
If you choose to use tissue paper, then make sure that you tear it into 3 by 1 in (7.6 by 2.5 cm) strips as well.
4. Let the strips dry overnight, then pop and remove the balloon. You may have to wait even longer than that, depending on how dry or humid it is in your home. In fact, it would be a good idea to poke your finger under the papier-mâché; if it feels wet, give it a little more time.
This completes your dinosaur's body.
Don't worry about the hole left by the balloon. You'll end up covering it with the dinosaur's head or tail.
5. Tape paper towel roll segments to the balloon for legs. Turn the papier-mâché balloon on its side, then use masking tape to secure the legs to the bottom.
Don't use clear tape; it won't stick to the papier-mâché.
You can also just cut 2 empty toilet paper rolls in half and use those instead.
6. Use cardboard, paper towel tubes, and foil to make the other limbs. Scrunch up aluminum foil into a ball to make a head, and then use aluminum foil shaped into a cone for the tail. The size and shape for each depends on what type of dinosaur that you're making, so look at some reference pictures. Here are some more ideas to get you started.
Triceratops: cut a round, scalloped shape out of cardboard for the fan. Use foil to make the horns.
Stegosaurus: cut triangles out of cardboard for the fins.
Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: use a paper towel tube to make the neck.
7. Tape the pieces to the body with masking tape. Take 1 of your pieces, and hold it against the balloon where you want it to go. Secure it with strips of masking tape until the seam is completely hidden. Again, don't use clear tape, because it won't hold.
Triceratops: tape the fan to the balloon first, then add the head (you may have to use hot glue to secure it). Finish by sticking the horns to the head.
Stegosaurus: tape or hot glue the head to 1 side of the body and the tail to the other. Use strips of tape to add the fins down the back and tail.
Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: tape the head to the long neck first, then tape the head to the body. Add the tail to the other side of the body.
8. Cover the pieces and the seams with more papier-mâché. Start by applying strips of papier-mâché to the seams. After that, cover the shapes themselves. If the pieces feel unstable, add more papier-mâché to the seams.
You may have to tear more strips of newspaper and prepare more papier-mâché paste for this.
Consider making some smaller strips for sharp curves and tight corners.
If the hole from when you removed the balloon is still visible, cover it up with more papier-mâché.
9. Wait for everything to dry. How long it will take for your project to dry really depends on what the weather is like. Papier-mâché will dry a lot faster on a hot, dry, sunny day than on a cold, wet, day. Be patient!
10. Paint the dinosaur as desired, then let the paint dry. Acrylic craft paint will work just fine for this, but you can use poster paint too. You can use realistic colors for your dinosaur, like gray, brown, and green, or you can use fantasy colors, like pink, purple, and blue.
For a nicer finish, paint the dinosaur white first, then let the paint dry. This will give you a clean "canvas" to work on.
Don't forget to add eyes and a mouth. You can paint the eyes, or glue googly eyes on instead.
How long it will take for the paint to dry will depend on what type of paint you're using. Plan to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
White school glue, Newspaper, Balloon, Cardboard, Aluminum foil, Empty toilet paper rolls, Masking tape, Acrylic paint or poster paint, Scissors.
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Fold and cut a plain white paper plate in half with scissors. Fold the plate in half first, then use the crease as a cutting guide. For best results, use the kind that's made from cardstock and has a frilled edge, rather than the kind that's made from thick cardboard with a rim.
Set aside 1 of the paper plate halves; this will make the body.
2. Cut a dino head, tail, and spikes from the other paper plate half. Draw the shapes on the second paper plate half (the other one will be the body), then cut them out. Make sure that the limbs are proportionate to the body. Don't worry about the feet; you will be using toilet paper rolls for that.
Make the spikes about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall and wide.
Make the tail about 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wide at the base, and about 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the paper plate.
If you don't know how to draw a dinosaur head, tail, or spikes, look at pictures of cartoon dinosaurs online or in coloring books.
Use the brim to make the neck, if desired. Cut it off first so that you get a C-shape, then cut it in half. Use 1 of these halves to make the neck.
3. Glue the cut shapes to the other paper plate half. The straight edge of the plate is the bottom of the dinosaur, while the curved side is the back. Glue the tail to 1 end and the neck and/or head to the other. If you made spikes, glue them down the dinosaur's back.
4. Use scissors to cut an empty toilet paper roll into thirds. Keep 2 of the segments and discard the third. This will give you rings that are a little over 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. If you don't have any empty toilet paper rolls, you can use an empty paper towel roll instead.
If you're using an empty paper towel roll, cut 2 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) segments from it.
5. Cut a set of slits into the top of each toilet paper ring. You will be sliding the dinosaur's body into these slits, so make sure that they are directly across from each other. The easiest way to do this would be to squish the rings in half, then cut a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) long slit into each one.
6. Slide the dinosaur into the slits. Take the first roll, and turn it so that 1 slit is facing the dinosaur's head and the other is facing its tail. Slide the bottom edge of the dinosaur's body into the slit. Repeat this process for the other leg.
Slide the legs apart until they are on opposite sides of the plate.
7. Paint the dinosaur, then let it dry. Acrylic craft paints will work great for this, but you can also use poster paint too! Use the same colors and patterns for both the front and back. How long it will take for the paint to dry depends on what you are using. Expect to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.
You can take the dinosaur's body off of its feet in order to paint it. Do the front first, let it dry, then do the back.
Don't forget to paint the eyes and mouth! Alternatively, you can glue on some googly eyes after the paint has dried.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
White paper plate, Empty toilet paper roll, Scissors, Green acrylic paint or poster paint, Glue stick or white school glue.
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Glue a sheet of green construction paper to a piece of thin cardboard. This will make your dinosaur nice and sturdy. If you don’t have any green construction paper, paint the cardboard with green acrylics or poster paint. Let the glue or paint dry before moving on.
The thin cardboard from cereal and snack boxes works great for this!
If you don’t have thin cardboard or construction paper, try green cardstock instead. You can also use poster paper, but you’ll need to paint it.
2. Draw and cut the body, head, tail, and leg shapes from the paper. Look up coloring book or cartoon pictures of long-necked dinosaurs, then break it down into separate body parts. Draw these separately with a pen or pencil, then cut them out. Here are the basic shapes you’ll need.
A long stem with an oval-shaped head, like a brontosaurus or apatosaurus.
A long, tapering tail, like a skinny triangle.
2 rectangular legs.
A mound- or lump- shaped body, like a semicircle but with rounded bottom corners.
3. Make spikes for the dino's back using paper and cardboard if desired. Glue the paper to the cardboard first (or paint the cardboard). Let the paint or glue dry, then draw 4 to 5 triangular spikes. Cut them out, then set them aside.
Use a different color of paint or paper for this. Orange is a great choice, but a lighter or darker shade of green will also work.
You can also make smaller rectangles for nails.
4. Use a pen to poke a hole in the ends of each limb. Make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) away from the center of each edge. A pen or pencil will work just fine for a cardstock dino, but if you used thin cardboard, use a nail to make the holes instead.
You’ll need holes in the following areas: base of the neck, base of the tail, and the top of each leg.
Don’t use a hole punch. The hole will be too big and the brad will fall through.
If you're a child, ask an adult to help you with this step, especially if you're using a nail.
5. Poke 4 holes in the body so that you can secure the limbs. Make 2 holes along the wider, flatter, bottom edge of the body. Poke another set of holes on the sides of the body for the tail and legs. As with the limbs, make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) from the edges.
Don’t poke the neck and tail holes too close to the top; make them closer to the bottom so that your dinosaur has a humped back.
Don’t place the legs too close together. Keep them closer to the bottom corners of the body.
6. Use brads to secure the limbs behind the dinosaur's body. Stick a brad through the front of the neck hole on the body. Slide the neck piece onto the back of the prong, behind the body. Pry open the back of the brad, then press the prongs flat against the back of the dinosaur.
Repeat this step for the tail and both legs. Always add the limbs to the back of the body, not the front.
Make sure that the limbs are facing up as well, otherwise your dinosaur won’t match!
Brad prongs can hurt if they get under your nail. Consider using a butter knife to pry them apart.
7. Glue the spikes to the back of the dinosaur. Flip the dinosaur over so that you can see the back. Draw a line of glue along its back, then add the triangular spikes. Make sure that the flat bases are touching the dinosaur's back while the pointy tips are sticking out.
If you made nails for the dino, glue them to the bottom of each leg.
White school glue and glue sticks will work just fine for this. Hot glue is not recommended because it's too bulky.
8. Give the dinosaur a face. Here is where you can get a little creative. For a simple dinosaur, use a black marker to draw an eye and mouth. For a fancier dinosaur, use hot glue or white school glue to attach a googly eye to the dinosaur's face.
Give your dinosaur more character by adding eyebrows or eyelashes.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
Green construction paper, Orange construction paper, Glue stick, Thin cardboard, 4 brads, Pen or nail, Scissors, White school glue (optional), Googly eye (optional).
Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!
Steps.
1. Get one white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper. Since origami can be a bit difficult (and not very exciting) for younger children, the good old method of cutting and gluing construction paper might be more up their alley. This method of making a paper penguin calls for one white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper.
2. Trace an oval shape onto the black construction paper. To form the body of the penguin, have the child draw an oblong oval on the black construction paper with either a white crayon or a piece of chalk so that they can see the outline. One fun and silly way to help the child make the shape is to have him or her place their shoe on the sheet and trace the outline of it.
3. Cut out the black oval. Using a pair of scissors (safety scissors for younger children), have the child cut out the black oval from the construction paper. When it comes to the eyes later, you can have the child either draw them on the white paper or cut pupils out of the black paper. For the latter, you can have the child cut those out now as well.
4. Trace a smaller oval onto the white construction paper. You can now have the child trace the white portion of the belly on the white construction paper. You can find something of the relative oblong shape to let the child trace it again or simply allow them to do it freehand.
5. Glue the belly to the rest of the body. Once the child is done tracing the white oval, allow them to cut the shape out of the construction paper. Then use a glue stick to glue the tummy portion to the rest of the body. Glue it closer to the bottom of the body portion than the middle since the head should be above it.
6. Cut a small triangle out of the orange construction paper. To make the beak for the penguin, have the child cut a small triangle out of the orange construction paper. The beak doesn't have to be an exact triangle, so you can have the child trace it first or simply cut one out.
For very small children, the size of the beak might be too difficult for them to cut out, so you may have to help with this step.
7. Glue the beak to the penguin's face. You have two different options to glue the beak to the penguin's face. You can either glue the triangle flat with one of the points facing downward, or you can actually make a little fold on one of the flat sides and glue it at the tab, which will make the beak stick out from the penguin's face.
8. Make the penguin's eyes. As mentioned earlier, you can have the child draw eyes on the white construction paper, cut them out and glue those to the penguin, or you can also have the child cut the whites of the eyes from the white construction paper, then use the black construction paper to cut out the pupils.
A third option if the child is too young to cut out such small circles is to have some googly eyes on hand from a craft store or the craft section of a big-box store. Young kids may have an easier time using a glue stick to attach google eyes instead.
9. Let the child customize it. This makes an easy basic shape for the penguin, and then the child can have fun customizing it. If the child cuts out two really flattened ovals from the black paper, he or she can glue them to the side of the body as wings. If the child wants to make feet for the penguin, you can have them trace a leaf or something else with the slight contours to give them the webbed shape.
Things You'll Need.
Scissors.
One white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper.
There are several fun ways to create a paper dog, and luckily all of them require very few materials! Create a fun miniature dog that can stand on its own legs out of origami paper, or make a folded dog face with a playful expression. You could even make paper dog hand puppets to play with!
Method 1 Folding an Origami Dog.
1. Select a piece of origami paper for your dog. Depending on what you have available, choose either a 3 by 3 in (7.6 by 7.6 cm), 6 by 6 in (15 by 15 cm), or 10 by 10 in (25 by 25 cm) piece of paper. The bigger the sheet of paper, the bigger your dog will be. Brown, tan, or white are common dog colors, but don’t hesitate to choose something more unconventional for your origami creation.
If you don’t have origami paper, use something else that is thin and easy to fold, like newspaper, magazine pages, or even wrapping paper. Cut the substitute into the right dimensions so you have a perfectly square piece of paper.
2. Fold the square of paper in half to create a triangle. Take the top-left corner and fold it across so it meets the bottom-right corner, forming a triangle shape. Run your finger along the fold to create a crease.
Use the back of your nail or something hard, like the body of a pen, to make your crease lines more defined.
3. Open the square back up and fold it in half diagonally the other way. Unfold the paper so it is a square again. Make another triangle by folding the top-right corner across to the bottom-left corner. Press down along the fold line to make another crease.
It’s really important in origami to have straight, defined creases. That is what enables your creation to stand upright once you’ve finished.
4. Unfold the square again and place it in front of you. Open up the piece of paper and set it in front of you. Make the bottom of the square parallel to your body.
There should be an “X” formed by the creases on the unfolded piece of paper.
5. Bring the bottom-left corner to the center point of the square and fold. With the square unfolded in front of you, take the bottom-left corner and place its tip in the center of the square, where the 2 creases intersect to create an “X”. Press the fold down to make a crease.
Making firm creases will also keep the folded pieces of paper in place while you work on other sections. Otherwise, you might risk things coming undone and losing your place in your project.
6. Repeat the previous step to bring all the corners to the center. One at a time, take each remaining corner (top left, top right, bottom right) and fold them so their points are in the center of the square. Fold and press down the crease for each corner.
Essentially, this step turns the original square into a smaller square. All the sides should still be equal to one another.
You will now have left, top, right, and bottom sides, with all points meeting in the middle of the square.
7. Open the left flap, fold it in half, and then fold it back in place. Unfold the left-hand side piece of paper. Fold the point in half, so that the tip of it meets the intersection of your previous fold line. Then fold the entire left flap back into place.
There should be an open triangle when you look down at your square.
8. Take the tip of the right flap and fold it back to overlap the edge line. Leave the flap folded to the center point. Take the tip of the corner that is in the center, and fold it back about 2/3rds of the way. Make your crease so that the top forms a triangle that overhangs the outer edge of the square.
Leave the top and bottom flaps in place and don’t do anything to them at this point.
This fold will eventually become the dog’s tail.
9. Fold the entire square in half lengthwise. Pick up the piece of paper. Fold it in half evenly, lengthwise, to create the left and right sides of your origami dog. When the fold is done, set the paper down in front of you so that the pointy tail is pointing to the right.
Take your time when lining up the center fold. If the lines aren’t straight, your dog will be wobbly.
10. Unfold the top flap and crease it from the top-left to bottom-right corner. Unfold the flap of paper from the top section of the dog so that its point is pointing toward your body. Then fold the entire section of paper up, and create a diagonal fold that starts at the top-left corner and finishes at the bottom-right corner.
At this point in the folding process, you’re making the dog’s head and legs.
11. Refold the right edge along the crease line. After making the diagonal fold, take the point of the piece of paper you just folded up, and bring it back down along the original crease line. This creates the slant of the dog’s “leg.”
The bottom edge should be in line with the ground if you were to pretend to stand it up.
12. Repeat the previous 2 steps on the opposite side. Flip the piece of paper over. Unfold the flap of paper and make a diagonal fold from the top-right corner to the bottom-left corner. Then fold the paper back down along its original crease line to form the other leg.
Even though you’re nearing the end, remember to take your time and make your folds as straight and defined as you can.
13. Pull out the fold inside the dog’s “nose.” When you look at the piece of paper, you should now see the dog’s tail, body, triangle legs, and triangle head. Look under the dog’s nose and carefully pull out the fold. This creates the dog’s mouth and gives it a more realistic look.
The crease line creates a jawline for the dog.
14. Draw a nose and eyes onto the dog to complete it. Take a marker and put an eye on each side of the dog, as well as a nose. For the nose, just fill in the area around the front tip of the head. You could also draw a little smile or any other embellishments you feel are appropriate.
Once you get the hang of the pattern, you can make an origami dog in just a few minutes.
Method 2 Creating a Dog Head.
1. Choose a piece of origami paper for your project. Origami-specific paper comes in squares, which means it’s ready to use and you don’t need to cut it at all. The larger the piece of paper you choose, the bigger the dog head will be. Choose a color for your dog, whether that is brown, black, white, tan, or an unconventional color, like blue or green.
If you don’t have origami paper, cut a thin sheet of paper, like newspaper or wrapping paper, into a square.
2. Fold the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner to make a triangle. Match up the 2 corners so that the sides are equal. Press the fold down firmly to create a crease.
To help crease the paper, push the fold down with the back of your nail or with the body of a pen. The stronger the crease, the better definition your dog head will have.
3. Bring the 2 bottom corners together to make a smaller triangle. Leave your first fold in place. Bring the bottom points together and make another fold to form a smaller triangle.
Take your time when making your folds and line up the edges neatly.
4. Unfold the triangle once, and place it so the tip is pointing at your body. Undo the last fold you did so that just the large triangle is left. Position the paper so that the top of the triangle is pointing at you.
You’ll use the center crease as a guide for your future folds.
5. Make a diagonal fold on the right-hand side, starting at the center crease. Make a bigger fold for bigger dog ears or a smaller fold for smaller ears. Make the crease start at the center line and fold the right-side corner down at a diagonal angle.
Keep the fold lined up with the center crease to create a proportional face.
6. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side. Try your best to create the same angle so that your dog’s ears are the same size. Start the diagonal fold at the center-crease line.
When you look down at your paper, you should see a very angular-looking dog head.
7. Fold back the bottom and top points to create straight lines. Fold back the top tip of the dog’s head just enough so that there is a flat line connecting the 2 ears. Fold the bottom tip back to create a jaw line for the dog.
If you need to, use a little bit of glue or double-sided tape to secure the points to the back of the dog’s head.
8. Draw the rest of the dog’s features to complete your project. Use a black marker to draw eyes, a nose, and a mouth on the paper. You can get as detailed as you want to, but for basic features, make circles for eyes and an upside-down triangle for the nose. For the mouth, make a “J” attached to a backwards “J” coming out of the tip of the dog’s nose.
You can get as creative as you’d like with designing the dog’s face. Try making spots on the ears or giving it whiskers or a tongue.
Method 3 Making a Hand Puppet.
1. Fold a piece of paper lengthwise into 3 equal sections. Use a piece of construction paper or computer paper, or anything that comes close in size to 8.5 by 11 in (22 by 28 cm). This piece of paper will be the dog’s head, so use whatever color you’d like for that. White works well, but brown, black, or even an unconventional color, like red, would be fine.
Avoid using really thin paper for this craft. You’ll be sticking your hands into the folds, so it needs to be a little thicker to hold up.
2. Glue the last fold down with your glue stick. To help your craft stay together, apply some glue to the back of the last fold. Press it down so it adheres to the other side.
Glue sticks work great because they don’t take long to dry. If you don’t have a glue stick, try using double-sided tape.
3. Fold the paper in half so the “seam” is on the outside. Bring the short ends of the paper together, making a crease in the middle. Fold the paper so that the side you just glued is facing up.
If you accidentally fold it the wrong way the first time, that’s okay. Just unfold it and reverse the direction.
4. Fold the open edge to the bottom crease on each side. On each side of the paper, take the top edge and fold it back so it’s in line with the bottom, and make a crease. After you’ve done this on each side, hold up the paper and check that it makes an “M.”
The top and bottom sections are where you’ll place your fingers to make the puppet talk.
5. Cut out the dog’s ears and tongue and glue them into place. Use different colors of construction paper to cut out oblong shapes for the ears and tongue. Use your glue stick to attach them to the paper. Place the tongue inside the “mouth” and glue the ears on the top of the paper, one on each side of the head.
For example, if you used white paper for the dog’s head, use red paper for the tongue and black paper for the ears.
6.Draw on the eyes and nose to complete your puppet. Use a black marker to draw circles for eyes and an upside down triangle for the nose. You could even put 3 small dots on either side of the nose to make whiskers. Use your imagination and enjoy the decoration process!
To use the hand puppet, simply put your thumb in the bottom flap and your fingers in the top flap. When you open and close your hand, the dog’s mouth will open and close, too.
Tips
Take your time when creating a new craft! It can take a while to get the hang of things, but keep at it and you’ll be able to make various paper dogs in no time.
If you get a paper cut, rinse it off with warm water and mild soap, and put a bandaid around it to keep it clean.
How to Make a Paper Snake Using Construction Paper.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. You can easily make a snake out of construction paper rings. The more rings you add, the longer your snake will be. Here's a list of what you will need to make such a snake:
Several sheets of construction paper, Red paper, Scissors, Glue stick, tape, or stapler, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes.
2. Find some construction paper. You will need at least three pieces. You can use all one color to make a solid-colored snake. You can also use different colors if you want a striped snake.
3. Cut the paper into 1½ to 2 inch (3.81 to 5.08 centimeters) thick strips. You will need at least 16 strips. The more you make, the longer your snake will be.
Consider stacking the paper and cutting several sheets at the same time. This will make the cutting part faster.
4. Make a ring out of a strip of paper and glue it shut. Pick up a strip of paper and bring the two ends together. Overlap them by about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters). Use a glue stick to hold them together. You can also use tape or a stapler instead.
Do not use white school glue or tacky glue. It does not dry fast enough. Your snake will fall apart before the glue dries.
If you are using a stapler, ask an adult to help you.
5. Slip a strip of paper through the ring and glue the ends together. Keep repeating this step until you run out of strips of paper. You can make your snake just one color, or you can make it many colors. You can give your snake a pattern, or make the colors random.
6. Add the tongue. Cut a skinny rectangle from red paper and cut a V shape into one end to make the fork. Fold the flat side over by about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) to make a tab. Glue the tab to one of the end rings.
7. Add the eyes right above the tongue. You can draw them on using a marker or crayon. You can also glue them on using some white school glue or tacky glue.
Things You'll Need.
Several sheets of construction paper, Red paper, Scissors, Glue stick, tape, or stapler, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
How to Make a Paper Snake Using Toilet Paper Rolls.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. If you have any spare toilet paper rolls laying around, you can turn them into a fun, wiggly snake using a bit of paint and string. Here's a list of what you will need:
3 – 4 toilet paper rolls, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, Scissors, Yarn, Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes, Hole punch.
2. Gather three to four toilet paper rolls. If you cannot find that many toilet paper rolls, you can use some paper towel rolls instead.
3. Use scissors to cut each toilet paper roll in half. If you are using paper towel rolls, cut them into thirds.
4. Paint the toilet paper rolls and let them dry. You can paint them all one color. You can also paint each roll a different color. If you want to add patterns and designs, wait for the paint to dry first.
5. Choose two rolls to be your head and tail tip and set them aside. You don't want them to get mixed up with the body of the snake.
6. Punch four holes in each body piece. There will be two holes on the top, and two holes on the bottom. The holes need to be straight across from each other. Make sure that the top and bottom holes on each side are aligned.
7. Punch two holes into the head and tail tip piece. The holes need to be straight across from each other.
8. Cut some yarn into 5 inch (12.7 centimeters) long pieces. You will need enough pieces to tie the rolls together.
9. Tie the pieces together using the yarn. Don't tie the yarn too tight, or the snake won't be able to wiggle. There should be a gap between each piece. Try to hide the knot inside the snake.
10. Add the tongue. Cut a long, skinny rectangle from a piece of red paper and cut a V shape into on end. You can also use a piece of red ribbon. Glue the flat end inside the snake's head. Make sure that it is in the middle of the mouth.
If you want your snake to have a closed mouth, ask an adult to staple the end of the roll shut, right over the tongue.
11. Add the eyes. You can draw the eyes on using a crayon or marker. You can also paint them on. If you have any googly eyes at home, you can glue them on using white school glue or tacky glue.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Do not let these snakes to get wet.
Adult supervision is required for cutting steps.
Things You'll Need.
3 – 4 toilet paper rolls, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, Scissors, Yarn, Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes, Hole punch.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. This is a simple snake that you can make out of a paper plate. It lays flat on your table, but springs up into a long snake when you hang it! Here's a list of what you will need:
Paper plate, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, spongers, etc, Pencil or pen, Scissors, Crayons, markers, or googly eyes.
Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, String, thumbtack, hole punch (optional), Rhinestones, glitter, etc (optional).
2. Cut off the raised edge of a paper plate. Be sure not to go too far into the middle or else it may not be big enough.
If you don't have a paper plate, use a small plate to trace a circle onto a large sheet of paper. Cut the circle out using a pair of scissors, and use that circle instead.
3. Paint or decorate the paper plate. You can paint the snake however you want. You can use a paintbrush, a sponge, or even your fingers. Snakes come in many different colors and patterns. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Paint the plate a solid color and let the paint dry. Next, dip a sponge into a different color and tap the excess paint off onto a paper towel. Then, dab the sponge all over the plate. If you want to add another color, wait for the first one to dry. This will give you a scale-like effect.
Wrap a sheet of bubble wrap (bubble-side-out) around a rolling pin and secure it with tape. Pour two colors of paint onto a palette and gently roll the pin across. Next, roll the pin across the plate. You will get a scale effect.
You can also color the other side of the plate to make the snake's belly. Most snakes have a plain, light colored belly. Do this once the top of the snake dries.
4. Draw a spiral on the back of the plate. Make the spiral about half an inch thick. It doesn't have to be perfect, but try to make it even all the way around. The center of the spiral will be the snake's head, so make it rounded.
You are drawing the spiral on the back so that you won't see it on the top.
5. Cut out the spiral shape. Start front the outside of the spiral, and work your way in. Try to do this right on the line, because you don't want the line to show on the finished product.
6. Add more decorations to the snake. At this point, you can paint on some extra designs to make your snake even more special. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Paint thick stripes across the spiral to make a striped snake, Paint Xs or diamond shapes across the spiral to make a diamond pattern.
Glue some colorful rhinestones using white school glue or tacky glue. Try not to add too many, or your snake will be too heavy.
Make some squiggles and patterns on the snake using white glue. Then, shake some glitter onto the glue. Tap off the excess glitter and let the glue dry.
7. Add the eyes onto the front of the head. You can draw the eyes on using a marker or crayons. You can also paint the eyes on. If you have googly eyes at home, you can glue them on using white school glue or tacky glue.
Remember, the head is the rounded part in the middle of the spiral.
8. Add the tongue. Cut a thin 1 to 2 inch (2.54 to 5.08) long rectangle out of red paper. You can also use a piece of thin, red ribbon. Cut a V shape into one end of the rectangle. This will be the snake's forked tongue. Lift the head up and glue the tongue under it.
9. Punch a hole through the snake if you want to hang it. You can punch the hole at the end of the tail, right between the eyes, or even in the tongue. Thread a piece of string through the hole and tie it in a knot. Use the other end of the string to hang the snake from a door knob, a stick, or even a thumbtack in the wall.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Do not let these snakes to get wet.
Adult supervision is required for cutting steps.
Things You'll Need.
Paper plate, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, spongers, etc, Pencil or pen, Scissors, Crayons, markers, or googly eyes, Red paper or ribbon.
White school glue or tacky glue, String, thumbtack, hole punch (optional), Rhinestones, glitter, etc (optional).
Paper butterflies are not only dainty and chic, they're also fun to make. Try your hand at origami to create one or, if you're more of a crafting beginner, fold a simpler version with pretty pleats. When you're finished, use your butterflies as decor or give them to friends and family as gifts.
Method 1 Folding an Origami Butterfly.
1. Fold the paper in half, then open it and fold it in half the other way. Make sure to crease both of the folds. Line up the edges when you’re folding to ensure the crease is directly in the center.
If your paper is the same color or pattern on both sides, it doesn’t matter which side you start on. However, if one side is white, or the “backside,” begin with that side facing up.
Choosing the Perfect Paper for Your Butterfly
If you're a beginner, choose oversized origami paper. Bigger sheets are easier to work with.
For easy folding, use origami paper, because it is thinner than regular paper.
If you want to add visual interest, opt for textured paper like linen or felt cardstock.
For a dramatic accent, pick foil paper in a shimmery metallic.
2. Fold the paper in half diagonally, open it, and fold on the other diagonal. Bring 2 opposite corners together to create the folds. Press down firmly to create defined creases. Repeat on both diagonals. Open the paper to lie flat after you fold it.
Your 4 folds should intersect in the exact center of the paper.
3. Bring the right and left creases together, creating a triangle. With the paper laying flat in front of you, press the right horizontal crease to the left one. As you do this, the paper should collapse onto itself in a triangle shape along the diagonal creases you made.
Press down on the triangle to crease the paper once it’s collapsed.
If the paper isn’t folding properly, go back over your original creases again. If they aren’t defined enough, the paper will have trouble falling into the shape.
4. Fold the 2 top corners into the center. When you created the triangle shape, it made 2 layers. Grab the corners on the top layer and line up their edges with the crease in the middle of the triangle.
Try to align the corners with the crease perfectly so they aren’t overlapping or so there isn’t a large gap between the edges in the center.
5. Flip the triangle over and fold the bottom up, leaving a small tip showing. You aren’t folding it completely half. Instead you’re folding it about 1/3 up from the base of the triangle. Hold the fold in place gently with your hand.
Don’t crease the fold.
6. Bend the top layer of the tip over the base. There are 2 layers at the tip of the triangle. Peel the top 1 forward, folding it over the wide triangle bottom you’re currently holding in place. The tip will be the head of the butterfly.
Crease the fold that you make with the tip. This will help secure the body of the butterfly in place and prevent it from unraveling.
7. Pull down the pieces from the bottom layer to create the lower wings. With the top layer folded over, bring the bottom layer of the tip in the opposite direction. The points of the 2 triangular pieces should be facing down, away from the folded head.
It may help to hold the folded tip with your thumb while you pull the other pieces down so that the butterfly doesn’t come apart.
Re-crease the folded tip after you arrange the bottom pieces if necessary.
Trim the edges of the wings if you want a smaller butterfly.
Method 2 Making a Pleated Paper Butterfly.
1. Fold the square piece of paper in half, creasing it. Line up the edges of the paper when you fold it to make sure you’re creating a line directly down the middle. Press firmly with your fingernail to form the crease.
Use any type of paper you’d like, whether it’s origami paper, colorful cardstock, or even pretty gift wrap.
The size of your paper doesn’t matter, as long as it’s square. If you have a rectangular piece, simply trim it down so all of the edges are the same length.
2. Unfold the paper and cut along the crease line. Use your scissors to cut the piece of paper in half. The groove of the crease should help guide your scissors in a straight line through the paper.
Make sure your scissors are sharp so they don’t tear or crinkle the paper.
If you have trouble cutting in a line, hold your scissors against a straight edge, like a ruler, while you cut.
3. Make accordion folds with one of the pieces of the paper. Fold a small piece lengthwise, then flip the paper over to fold it back onto itself. Continue flipping the paper from side to side as you fold along the entire length of the paper. Think of this motion as similar to making a pleat or a fan.
You can make the folds as thick or as thin as you'd like.
Keep the folds all the same thickness, no matter what size you choose.
4. Take the other piece of paper you cut and fold it in half lengthwise. Place the 2 longer edges on top of each other. Then create a crease by pressing down along the fold.
Try to make the crease as straight and even as possible so it splits the paper directly in half.
5. Open it up and fold the 4 corners in toward the center crease line. Line up the edges straight along the crease. Your paper will now be in the shape of a hexagon, with 2 pointed ends formed by the folded corners.
Leave the corners folded. If they won’t stay in place, use a piece of double-sided tape or a little bit of glue under the flap.
6. Flip the paper over and make accordion folds on each side of the crease. Fold one half the paper in towards the center. Then repeat on the other side. This will be the top half of the butterfly’s wings.
Make the folds as large or as small as you’d like, depending on the size of your paper.
7. Bend both pieces of pleated paper in half. Press the pleats together and hold the paper between your thumb and forefinger. Carefully fold one end onto the other, creasing it firmly.[14]
The paper won’t stay folded, but that’s okay. You just want to make a crease, so the paper is in a V-shape.
8. Place 1 piece above the other and tie them together at the center. Arrange the 2 pieces so that they form a butterfly shape. Pinch them together while you tie string or cord around both pieces.[15]
To secure the 2 pieces together better, you can add a dab of craft glue or hot glue in the middle.
Having a friend hold the pieces together while you tie the string makes it easier to get a tight knot.
You can also use ribbon or a pipe cleaner instead of string.
9. Pull out the pleats to open up the wings. Scrunched-up folds don’t exactly resemble a beautiful butterfly. Gently pull the pleats apart so that the 2 pieces of paper look like 1 large wing on each side instead of 2 disjointed ones.[16]
Be careful not to rip the paper when you’re arranging the pleats.
Fun Ways to Use Your Butterflies
Hang them on a string or ribbon to drape as a whimsical garland in your room.
Glue the butterflies to a piece of paper or a canvas as 3D art.
Give them as gifts around the holidays.
Place them on a bookshelf or coffee table as decor.
Mickey's sweetheart has the fashion sense to wear a bow in her ears, but Minnie mouse has very similar ears to those of her beau. In some special costumes, Minnie has also been known to wear a crown, a Santa hat, and other seasonal accents between her ears. The ears are always black, of course, and the bow usually red with white polka-dots, but you can choose your favorite patterns and colors to make the bow you place between your Minnie Mouse ears.
Part 1 Making the Ears.
1. Gather the material for making your mouse ears. You will need black felt to give your mouse ears color and texture. A cardboard core will give your fabric rigidity and form. If you don't have any cardboard, you might be able to layer several pieces of rigid construction paper together with glue as a substitute. The material you use for the ears should be stiff enough to keep it from flopping around loosely once attached to the headband and if you don’t have felt, you can paint or color the cardboard black.
Black felt, Cardboard, Rigid construction paper (optional), Household glue, Plain paper, Ribbon (10” (25 cm) long), Ribbon (3” (7 cm) long).
You should be able to purchase everything you need for this project at your local fabric or craft store.
2. Purchase a headband and tools, if necessary. The headband can be any color, but it should be at least ½" (1.27 cm) thick. You will eventually attach your mouse ears to the headband, so thicker headbands might give your mouse ears greater stability. Including a head band, you should also purchase the following tools.
3. Make two identical paper circle templates. You should trace two circles on your paper with a pencil or your chalk. Each circle should be between 3” and 5” (7.6 and 12.7 cm) and have a ½” (1.27 cm) tab at the bottom of the circle. These templates will be used to assist you in outlining the dimensions of your mouse ears on both fabric and cardboard.
The tabs will on the bottom of your circles will be used to secure the ears and the headband together.
You might be able to use the base of a bowl to help you in drawing identical circles for both of your templates.
4. Outline your felt circles onto your felt. Place your paper template on top of the felt and trace the circle with chalk onto it. You could use a piece of tailor’s chalk, or even regular chalk in a pinch. This way, you can wipe any leftover chalk away with a damp cloth.
Make four felt circles for every pair of ears you make. You will need to glue felt to the front and back of your cardboard core to make your mouse ears uniformly black.
5. Cut your felt circles. Take your scissors and follow the chalk outlines you've drawn to cut free your felt circles free from the fabric.You can add some jazzy flair to your mouse ears by using zig-zaggy pinking shears.
Pinking shears will add a cute border to your fabric and prevent your fabric from becoming frayed.
6. Trace cardboard circles for your mouse ears. These cardboard circles will form the core of your mouse ears, making it possible for them stand up straight, just like Minnie's! Use your pencil or a piece of chalk to trace the circle template onto the cardboard.
You will need two cardboard circles for every pair of ears you make.
7. Cut out your cardboard circles. Using your scissors, follow the chalk or pencil outline you drew with your templates onto the cardboard. Be sure you don't cut off your tabs! These will be necessary to connect your mouse ears to the headband.
You may need to touch up your cardboard and felt circles/tabs to make them as close to identical as possible.
Compare and trim your felt and cardboard circles by holding the cardboard and felt pieces together in a stack. Then you can trim down any irregularities.
8. Glue the felt to the cardboard. Household glue should be sufficient to attach a piece of felt to the front and back of each cardboard circle/ear. Drizzle glue back and forth along the cardboard and press your felt into place. Press the felt to the glue firmly for five to ten minutes help it set.
To create the best bond between your glue and the felt, you may want to allow your glue to rest for 30 minutes to an hour.
Part 2 Attaching the Ears to the Headband.
1. Spread hot glue along the tabs of the ears. Regular household glue won’t hold up to wear and tear as well as hot glue. The special glue used in hot glue guns, however, is much more durable. It will create a firm bond between ear and headband.
You'll have to move quick after you apply your hot glue. The glue will dry quickly soon after application.
Hot glue fresh from the gun will be very hot. Be careful not to burn yourself.
2. Hot glue the tabs of your circles to the underside of the headband. Your circles should be at least 4” (10 cm) apart so that you have room for the bow that will go between the ears. You may want to mark your headband with your chalk where you'll be attaching the ears to prevent yourself from gluing them into the wrong place.
If your headband is flexible or will permit the use of staples, you could also use a hardy stapler to connect the tabs of your mouse ears to your headband.
3. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly. Playing with your mouse ears before the glue has completely dried could cause your mouse ears to come free of the headband. To ensure you don't have to re-glue any of your pieces together, you should allow your glue to firm for 30 minutes to an hour.
4. Style the ears into position. Your mouse ears might not stand straight up like Minnie Mouse's at first. To encourage your mouse ears to hold this position, fold both up and forward. The glued tabs will keep the ears in place.
Part 3 Creating the Bow.
1. Measure and cut a 10” (25 cm) length of ribbon or fabric. You can use either ribbon or fabric for your bow, although ribbon will likely be a little shinier and look more like the bow Minnie wears. In either case, it should be 5” to 8” (12.7 to 20.3 cm) wide. You will eventually gather this fabric around its middle, which will cause the sides to fan out. This will give your bow its shape.
Thicker cuts of fabric will create more bunching when you gather this piece around its middle, which will give your bow a fuller appearance.
2. Measure and cut a 3” (7.6 cm) gathering string. This is the piece you will use to gather the fabric around the middle of your 10" (25 cm) length of ribbon. You should use a similar kind of fabric to your 10" (25 cm) ribbon, but you could also add some pop to your design by using a contrasting color fabric.
For example, if you are using Minnie's traditional bow color, red with white polka-dots, you might choose a bold blue for your gathering string.
3. Lay the 10" (25 cm) piece of ribbon on a flat surface. Put the print side face down. You're going to want to glue your gathering string along the back of your bow, which will be the same as the opposite side of the pattern.
4. Fold the long ends your 10" (25 cm) ribbon toward its center. You'll want each side to overlap slightly at the center of your 10" (25 cm) length of ribbon. Fold one end at a time so that there is enough overlap to glue these side where the meet at the center of the ribbon.
5. Glue the folded inward ends at the overlap. It should only take a dab or two of hot glue or fabric glue to join the ends together firmly. Press the fabric firmly to create a stronger bond between the fabric and glue.
You should follow the directions on your glue to achieve the best bond. Some glues will set and cure faster than others. Generally, you should hold the glue firmly for one to five minutes for best results.
6. Arrange your ribbon into a bow shape. Use one hand to pinch your ribbon together toward its centermost point from the top and bottom edges. This will be easiest to do if you are working with a ribbon that is at least 5” (12.7 cm) wide.
Pinching your ribbon together tightly will cause the outside edges to flare out more dramatically.
7. Loosely wrap your gathering string around your bunched ribbon. The 3” (7.6 cm) piece of ribbon will hold the fabric of your bow in its flared position. Wind it around several times and then remove your fingers where you were pinching the bow in the middle.
Hold the ribbon with your free hand to make sure it doesn't come unwound or loose.
Wind the remaining length of your ribbon around the center tightly.
8. Glue the gathering string in place. Lift one end of the small piece of ribbon and apply a dab of hot glue or fabric glue. If using hot glue, you should be careful not to burn yourself by pressing on the fabric immediately after glue application.
To apply pressure to make the best seal between your hot glue and fabric, you might use a tool to prevent getting burned, like a paperweight, gloved hand, or tweezers.
Fabric glue and other cold glues should be held together firmly to encourage a strong bond. Press the glued piece of ribbon together. Hold this position for about 30 seconds to a minute.
Part 4 Attaching the Bow to the Headband.
1. Slip a pipe cleaner through a fold in your bow. The bunchings of your bow fabric should have created folds through which you can thread your pipe cleaner so that it passes under your glued gathering string.
If you find it difficult to feed your pipe cleaner through a fold and under your gathering string, you can always use glue to attach the pipe cleaner along the back of your bow.
A dab of hot glue onto the back of your gathering string should be enough to hold your pipe cleaner in place.
2. Cross one end of the piper cleaner over the other. Orient your pipe cleaner so it is equal length on both sides of your gathering string. Now cross the sides of your pipe cleaner at the midpoint over the front of your gathering string and add a twist.
This will prevent the pipe cleaner from slipping out of the bow while adding stability to the bow in general.
Experiment with different colored pipe cleaners to personalize your Minnie Mouse ears!
3. Secure your bow with the loose ends of the pipe cleaner. Center the bow between the ears. Then you're going to wrap each end of the pipe cleaner around opposite ends of your headband. Twine each side of the pipe cleaner down opposite ends of the headband until you go no further.
The ends of pipe cleaner can be pointy. To prevent the wearer from getting poked, you may want to turn these inward on your headband. The ends can also be taped to the headband as an extra precaution.
By attaching your bow to your mouse ears with a pipe cleaner, you'll be able to swap out different bows without having to make a new pair of mouse ears.
Twist ties can be used to reinforce your pipe cleaners if you find the pipe cleaner windings are not holding the bow in place well enough.
4. Add finishing touches and show off your mouse ears. Minnie, being a stylish mouse, would probably go ga-ga over some rhinestones, glitter, feathers, or other accents you might add to your mouse ears. Most of these can be attached with a small dab of hot glue. Once you've finished adding your finishing touches, you should show off your mouse ears to all your friends.
Tips.
Use a black felt tip marker to color white pipe cleaners if you don't want the white to show too much.
Warnings.
Hot glue emerges from the gun applicator at a very high temperature. Whenever using hot glue, you should follow the instructions that came with your glue gun and take care.
Things You’ll Need.
Ribbon (10” (25 cm) long), Ribbon (3” (7 cm) long), Black felt, Black felt tip marker, black crayon or paint (optional), Cardboard.
Chalk, Foam (optional), Headband, Hot glue gun, Household glue, Pipe cleaner, Plain paper, Scissors, Stiff construction paper (optional).
