Do you want to please children--or your own interests--with fun balloon animals? The cat is one of the most requested balloon animals there are. But a two or three balloon cat is slower to make, and children don't like waiting. So here is how to make a one balloon cat.
Steps.
1. Get your balloon.
2. Fill the balloon with 75% air.
3. Tie the balloon.
4. Make two inch-long bubbles. This is for the muzzle.
5. Take the knot and wrap it around the last section. The two bubbles should now be connected.
6. Wrap the knot around the two bubbles. This is to make sure they don't come apart and to get the knot out of the way.
7. Make two tiny bubbles. This is for the back of the head. Make sure they are the same size.
8. Make five bubbles that are a little over an inch. This is for the head. When making them, count to ten while twisting each bubble.
9. Twist the last of the two tiny bubbles you made in step #7 with the last of the five larger bubbles you made in step #8. It should make a loop, kind of like a flower.
10. Stick the muzzle through the hole.
11. Pinch the two little bubbles that are beside the center bubble. To pinch them, pull it out and turn it.
12. Make another small bubble for the neck.
13. Add two bubbles that are three inches long. These will be the legs.
14. Take the beginning section of the first 'bubble-leg' and twist it in with the last section of the second bubble-leg. Bend the legs down, where they are vertical.
15. Add another small section for the body. This section should just be a little over an inch.
16. Now make two more three-inch bubbles for the hind legs. Twist them together like you did for the front legs earlier.
17. Kink the tail. Bend it in an 'S' shape and massage it for a few seconds. Turn the tail so it is facing up.
18. Finished.
Question : Where do I get the balloons?
Answer : You can buy them on Amazon or eBay, or check your local party or dollar store.
Question : Why are there so many twists and turns?
Answer : There are many features to the cat, so you need many twists to make them all.
Tips.
Pinching the ears is extremely hard to do. This part needs practice.
Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.
Prepping the Wood.
Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.
Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.
Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.
It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.
Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.
Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.
Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4
Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.
Painting and Sealing the Wood.
Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.
You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.
Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.
Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.
Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.
Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.
Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.
Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.
Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.
If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.
Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.
Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.
If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.
If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.
Trying Other Techniques.
Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.
Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.
You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.
You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.
Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.
If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.
If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.
Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.
The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.
Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.
Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.
Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.
You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.
Tips.
You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.
Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!
It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.
You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.
Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.
Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.
Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.
You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.
Warnings.
Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.
Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.
Things You'll.
Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).
Do you want to please children--or your own interests--with fun balloon animals? The cat is one of the most requested balloon animals there are. But a two or three balloon cat is slower to make, and children don't like waiting. So here is how to make a one balloon cat.
Steps.
1. Get your balloon.
2. Fill the balloon with 75% air.
3. Tie the balloon.
4. Make two inch-long bubbles. This is for the muzzle.
5. Take the knot and wrap it around the last section. The two bubbles should now be connected.
6. Wrap the knot around the two bubbles. This is to make sure they don't come apart and to get the knot out of the way.
7. Make two tiny bubbles. This is for the back of the head. Make sure they are the same size.
8. Make five bubbles that are a little over an inch. This is for the head. When making them, count to ten while twisting each bubble.
9. Twist the last of the two tiny bubbles you made in step #7 with the last of the five larger bubbles you made in step #8. It should make a loop, kind of like a flower.
10.Stick the muzzle through the hole.
11. Pinch the two little bubbles that are beside the center bubble. To pinch them, pull it out and turn it.
12. Make another small bubble for the neck.
13. Add two bubbles that are three inches long. These will be the legs.
14. Take the beginning section of the first 'bubble-leg' and twist it in with the last section of the second bubble-leg. Bend the legs down, where they are vertical.
15. Add another small section for the body. This section should just be a little over an inch.
16. Now make two more three-inch bubbles for the hind legs. Twist them together like you did for the front legs earlier.
17. Kink the tail. Bend it in an 'S' shape and massage it for a few seconds. Turn the tail so it is facing up.
18. Finished.
Question : Where do I get the balloons?
Answer : You can buy them on Amazon or eBay, or check your local party or dollar store.
Question : Why are there so many twists and turns?
Answer : There are many features to the cat, so you need many twists to make them all.
Tips.
Pinching the ears is extremely hard to do. This part needs practice.
Glue sticks can be melted down for a number of applications. Whether used in crafts, manufacturing, packaging, fashion, or in any other creative function, glue sticks are a cheap and easy to come by product. All-purpose or school glue sticks and hot glue gun sticks can both be melted in the microwave, and hot glue gun sticks can, of course, be melted in a glue gun. If handled carefully and done properly, the processes are extremely quick and can help you adhere all kinds of surfaces to one another.
Microwaving Glue Sticks
Remove the glue sticks from their original packaging. All-purpose or school glue sticks can be unscrewed and pulled or broken off from their plastic casings. Hot glue gun sticks simply need to be removed from any packaging or wrappers.
Make sure there are no plastics or other wrappings in or on the glue you want to melt. Most wrappings and plastics are not intended to be melted and can be unsafe to do so.
If your glue stick has a plastic piece through the center, carefully cut the glue away from the plastic using a knife.
Put the stick(s) into a microwave-safe dish. Since the glue will be very messy and hard to clean, use a single-use paper bowl. If you are dedicating the dish to the craft of melting glue sticks, a ceramic or glass mug or bowl will also work.
Be sure the glue sticks are fully inside of the dish. If they overhang the mug or bowl, they will melt outside of the dish.
Start with smaller quantities to test how long your particular glue takes to melt.
Microwave the glue on full power in 20-second intervals. Depending on your microwave and amount of glue, you should at least be able to partially melt the sticks. If there are still solids, microwave the glue for an additional 20 seconds after stirring it with a craft stick or plastic spoon.
Do not leave the microwave unattended. If something goes wrong, you should be there to stop the microwave.
Do not heat the sticks for extended periods of time. It may look like nothing is wrong while it heats, but overheating the glue can create fumes that are unsafe.
Remove the glue from the microwave carefully. You should use it immediately, but be careful as the glue will be quite hot. Depending on how long it was heated, the dish can be hot as well.
Use the glue fresh out of the microwave so it will be easy to apply.
If the glue re-hardens, simply microwave it for another 20 seconds.
Melting Glue Sticks with a Glue Gun
Obtain a glue gun at least as big as the glue sticks. Only use hot glue sticks intended for glue guns—not all-purpose or school glue sticks. If the sticks won’t fit into the glue gun, you cannot melt them. If the sticks are too small, you will just have to use your hand to feed them through.
Make sure your glue sticks are meant for a glue gun. You should not use other types of glue sticks because they can damage your glue gun.
Plug in the glue gun over cardboard or newspaper. As the tip of the gun heats, the gun may start to drip as it melts. By putting a piece of cardboard or newspaper underneath, you can protect your working surface.
Always follow the instructions specific to your glue gun regarding electricity and timing.
Do not leave a glue gun unattended. They can tip over or otherwise cause severe burns if you are not careful.
Squeeze the trigger of the glue gun to feed the sticks. If the sticks match the size of the glue gun, the trigger will allow the stick to press and feed through the heated tip. The glue will then melt and drip out wherever you point the gun.
Do not touch the metal tip of the gun or the melting glue. They will both be extremely hot.
If the glue is not feeding through, it may either be too large of a stick or may still be heating up.
If your glue stick is smaller than the glue gun, you will have to push from the back end of the stick to feed it through.
Use gloves to protect your hands from the heated materials.
Insert another stick once the first no longer feeds through. If the gun or your fingers can no longer safely feed the first stick through the rear of the glue gun, use another glue stick to press it through. It will then be caught by the plastic feeding mechanism and continue melting.
Warnings.
Do not touch melted glue. It will be extremely hot and adhere to your skin, making the burn worse.
Do not inhale melted glue fumes. Some glues are non-toxic, but not all of them are. Regardless, the fumes can be dangerous, and you may need to wear a respirator while working.
