how to make a knights helmet

How to Make a Knight's Helmet

Making your own knight's helmet is simple and only requires a few materials. The base of your helmet will be made of poster board, but you can add any type of material onto the poster board that you'd like, such as foam or metallic paper. By cutting out a rectangle and teardrop shape before attaching the two together, you'll have created your basic helmet. After that, you can add details like plumes or visors to make your knight's helmet exactly how you'd like it.

Part 1 Creating the Basic Helmet.

1. Cut out a section of poster board that’s 10 by 28 in (25 by 71 cm) long. This will be the section of your helmet that wraps around your face and head. Lay the poster board flat on the table and use a ruler to mark a rectangle that’s 10 in (25 cm) wide and 28 in (71 cm) long. Use scissors to cut out this section of poster board.

Don't worry if the rectangle section is too long, you can trim it later on.

Purchase poster board from your local craft or big box store.

2. Apply paint to the poster board if you’re not adding additional layers. If your helmet is just going to be made of poster board, feel free to paint it a solid color like silver or gold. Use spray paint for a quick application, or use a paint brush and acrylic paints to paint the helmet section using even strokes.

Use two coats to ensure the poster board is fully covered.

Let the paint dry completely before continuing to work with the poster board. This should take 1-2 hours.

3. Fold the poster board in half crosswise. Fold the poster board horizontally instead of vertically so that it opens like a book. With the poster board folded in half, its new dimensions should be 10 in (25 cm) by 14 in (36 cm). Once the poster board has an even crease, unfold it and lay it flat again.

4. Attach additional material to the helmet if desired. If you’re putting foam or colored paper on your helmet to make it textured or colorful, use an adhesive like glue or tape to attach the material to the poster board. Make sure you don’t cover up the fold you just created, lining up the paper or foam with the fold before attaching it.

Flip the poster board over so that any excess foam or paper is visible, cutting it off using scissors so the poster board and additional materials are in line with each other.

5. Form the top of the helmet in the shape of a teardrop. The top of the helmet is made by drawing a circle slightly larger than your head onto a piece of poster board (and any other materials you’re using with the poster board). Once the circle is drawn, make a dot a few inches away from the circle, connecting it to the circle using a ruler so that the shape now resembles a teardrop.

You can find templates online for the top of the helmet to make creating it easier.

Consider creating a double layer of poster board to make the top sturdier.

Use a plate to help you draw a perfect circle, if desired.

6. Create a slit in the helmet for the eyes. Hold the rectangle section of the helmet up to your face with the fold at your nose, figuring out where the eyes would go. Measure a rectangle that’s roughly 5 in (13 cm) wide and 4 in (10 cm) high—this will be your eye slit. Use scissors or a precision blade to remove the eye portion from the large rectangle.

Make sure the center of your eye slit is lined up with the fold in the helmet.

7. Tape the sides of the helmet together so it’s whole. Join the two ends of the rectangle together, putting it on your head or the other person’s head to see where you’ll need to attach it. Use tape or a stapler to hold the two ends together.

To hide the tape, put it on the inside of the helmet.

Masking tape or duct tape works best.

8. Slide the top section into the helmet to attach it. Rest the sides of the helmet on the table so it’s sitting up straight. Slide the top section of the helmet into the sides, lining the tip of the teardrop shape with the fold in the rectangle. Push it down until the top of the helmet is touching the table. This will make it easy to hot glue or tape the two pieces together from the inside.

If the top section is too big to fit into the helmet’s sides, trim it using scissors.

If the top section is too small for the helmet's sides, you can either redo it and make it larger, or use a thick tape to attach it to the helmet's sides anyway.

Be careful if you’re using hot glue, making sure not to touch the metal tip of the glue gun.


Part 2 Adding Embellishments.

1. Create a visor for your helmet for a movable portion. Draw your visor in any shape you’d like, making sure it has slits wide enough for you to see out of. Make your visor at least 5 in (13 cm) long so it covers the entire eye slit already cut out in your helmet, and fasten it to your helmet using paper fasteners.

Look online for visor templates that you just print and cut out, if desired.

2. Add a feather to your helmet to create a plume. Choose a feather that’s long and large in any color you’d like. Create a hole in the top of your helmet, picking a spot near the edge of the helmet so that it doesn’t poke the person who’s wearing it in the head. Use a knife or sharp pen to form the hole before sticking the feather inside and gluing it in place.

Feel free to add more than one feather to the helmet, or glue or tape several feathers together to create a larger plume.

You can find feathers at your local craft or big box store.

3. Cut strips of craft foam to add detail along the edges of your helmet. Measure strips of craft foam to be roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) thick. Cut each strip out and use glue to attach the strips around the edges of the helmet. This makes the helmet look more official and detailed.

Use colored craft foam to give your helmet more personality, or paint your foam gold or silver to match your helmet.

4. Draw a coat of arms or another object on your helmet to personalize it. Use a marker to draw designs on your helmet or a symbol such as a coat of arms. Look online for inspiration for different coats of arms to draw and draw them in pencil first, if possible, in case you mess up and need to erase.

Use a black marker to add details to your helmet, or use lots of different colors to make your helmet stand out.

Pencil may not show up on foam, but you can always print out a template of something you'd like to draw and trace it using pen.

November 25, 2019

How to Make a Paper Butterfly

How to Make a Paper Butterfly.

Paper butterflies are not only dainty and chic, they're also fun to make. Try your hand at origami to create one or, if you're more of a crafting beginner, fold a simpler version with pretty pleats. When you're finished, use your butterflies as decor or give them to friends and family as gifts.

Method 1 Folding an Origami Butterfly.

1. Fold the paper in half, then open it and fold it in half the other way. Make sure to crease both of the folds. Line up the edges when you’re folding to ensure the crease is directly in the center.

If your paper is the same color or pattern on both sides, it doesn’t matter which side you start on. However, if one side is white, or the “backside,” begin with that side facing up.

Choosing the Perfect Paper for Your Butterfly

If you're a beginner, choose oversized origami paper. Bigger sheets are easier to work with.

For easy folding, use origami paper, because it is thinner than regular paper.

If you want to add visual interest, opt for textured paper like linen or felt cardstock.

For a dramatic accent, pick foil paper in a shimmery metallic.

2. Fold the paper in half diagonally, open it, and fold on the other diagonal. Bring 2 opposite corners together to create the folds. Press down firmly to create defined creases. Repeat on both diagonals. Open the paper to lie flat after you fold it.

Your 4 folds should intersect in the exact center of the paper.

3. Bring the right and left creases together, creating a triangle. With the paper laying flat in front of you, press the right horizontal crease to the left one. As you do this, the paper should collapse onto itself in a triangle shape along the diagonal creases you made.

Press down on the triangle to crease the paper once it’s collapsed.

If the paper isn’t folding properly, go back over your original creases again. If they aren’t defined enough, the paper will have trouble falling into the shape.

4. Fold the 2 top corners into the center. When you created the triangle shape, it made 2 layers. Grab the corners on the top layer and line up their edges with the crease in the middle of the triangle.

Try to align the corners with the crease perfectly so they aren’t overlapping or so there isn’t a large gap between the edges in the center.

5. Flip the triangle over and fold the bottom up, leaving a small tip showing. You aren’t folding it completely half. Instead you’re folding it about 1/3 up from the base of the triangle. Hold the fold in place gently with your hand.

Don’t crease the fold.

6. Bend the top layer of the tip over the base. There are 2 layers at the tip of the triangle. Peel the top 1 forward, folding it over the wide triangle bottom you’re currently holding in place. The tip will be the head of the butterfly.

Crease the fold that you make with the tip. This will help secure the body of the butterfly in place and prevent it from unraveling.

7. Pull down the pieces from the bottom layer to create the lower wings. With the top layer folded over, bring the bottom layer of the tip in the opposite direction. The points of the 2 triangular pieces should be facing down, away from the folded head.

It may help to hold the folded tip with your thumb while you pull the other pieces down so that the butterfly doesn’t come apart.

Re-crease the folded tip after you arrange the bottom pieces if necessary.

Trim the edges of the wings if you want a smaller butterfly.

Method 2 Making a Pleated Paper Butterfly.

1. Fold the square piece of paper in half, creasing it. Line up the edges of the paper when you fold it to make sure you’re creating a line directly down the middle. Press firmly with your fingernail to form the crease.

Use any type of paper you’d like, whether it’s origami paper, colorful cardstock, or even pretty gift wrap.

The size of your paper doesn’t matter, as long as it’s square. If you have a rectangular piece, simply trim it down so all of the edges are the same length.

2. Unfold the paper and cut along the crease line. Use your scissors to cut the piece of paper in half. The groove of the crease should help guide your scissors in a straight line through the paper.

Make sure your scissors are sharp so they don’t tear or crinkle the paper.

If you have trouble cutting in a line, hold your scissors against a straight edge, like a ruler, while you cut.

3. Make accordion folds with one of the pieces of the paper. Fold a small piece lengthwise, then flip the paper over to fold it back onto itself. Continue flipping the paper from side to side as you fold along the entire length of the paper. Think of this motion as similar to making a pleat or a fan.

You can make the folds as thick or as thin as you'd like.

Keep the folds all the same thickness, no matter what size you choose.

4. Take the other piece of paper you cut and fold it in half lengthwise. Place the 2 longer edges on top of each other. Then create a crease by pressing down along the fold.

Try to make the crease as straight and even as possible so it splits the paper directly in half.

5. Open it up and fold the 4 corners in toward the center crease line. Line up the edges straight along the crease. Your paper will now be in the shape of a hexagon, with 2 pointed ends formed by the folded corners.

Leave the corners folded. If they won’t stay in place, use a piece of double-sided tape or a little bit of glue under the flap.

6. Flip the paper over and make accordion folds on each side of the crease. Fold one half the paper in towards the center. Then repeat on the other side. This will be the top half of the butterfly’s wings.

Make the folds as large or as small as you’d like, depending on the size of your paper.

7. Bend both pieces of pleated paper in half. Press the pleats together and hold the paper between your thumb and forefinger. Carefully fold one end onto the other, creasing it firmly.[14]

The paper won’t stay folded, but that’s okay. You just want to make a crease, so the paper is in a V-shape.

8. Place 1 piece above the other and tie them together at the center. Arrange the 2 pieces so that they form a butterfly shape. Pinch them together while you tie string or cord around both pieces.[15]

To secure the 2 pieces together better, you can add a dab of craft glue or hot glue in the middle.

Having a friend hold the pieces together while you tie the string makes it easier to get a tight knot.

You can also use ribbon or a pipe cleaner instead of string.

9. Pull out the pleats to open up the wings. Scrunched-up folds don’t exactly resemble a beautiful butterfly. Gently pull the pleats apart so that the 2 pieces of paper look like 1 large wing on each side instead of 2 disjointed ones.[16]

Be careful not to rip the paper when you’re arranging the pleats.

Fun Ways to Use Your Butterflies

Hang them on a string or ribbon to drape as a whimsical garland in your room.

Glue the butterflies to a piece of paper or a canvas as 3D art.

Give them as gifts around the holidays.

Place them on a bookshelf or coffee table as decor.

Turn a butterfly into a Christmas tree ornament.

Things You’ll Need

Origami Butterfly

1 square piece of paper

Pleated Paper Butterfly

1 square piece of paper

1 piece of string, cord, or ribbon

Scissors

Double-sided tape (optional)

Glue (optional)

Desember 16, 2019

how to frame a piece of fabric on canvas

how to frame a piece of fabric on canvas

Adding a beautiful piece of art to a room is the last layer of decoration that every home needs. But a framed piece can be pricey. Instead of shelling out money for a print or painting, why not frame a gorgeous piece of fabric instead? Not only will fabric add color and pattern to a room, but it also lends personality. Plus, varying the textures in a gallery wall will add interest and depth to the space.



You can use a favorite piece of fabric that has been passed down in your family or simply a pattern that caught your eye at the fabric store. Either way, it's a great way to display a beautiful textile. Hang one of these prints on your wall as soon as possible! This is an easy project that takes less than an hour to complete.



Gather Your Materials

Small canvas

Fabric

Scissors

Hot glue

Iron

Cloth tape (optional)

Choose Your Fabric

Once you've selected your fabric, make sure it's large enough to fit around your canvas. While you can opt to use a more traditional picture frame, the canvas is a really easy way to complete this project while still showing off the texture of the fabric.



Cut the fabric to the size of the canvas, leaving at least 1 inch of extra fabric around all of the edges.



Note: If the fabric is vintage or heirloom, you can leave it as is. Don't cut or glue and simply pin it to the canvas instead.



Smooth the Fabric

If needed, gently iron the fabric to remove any deep creases. Then, stretch the fabric over the canvas and secure it using dabs of hot glue on the back frame of the canvas. You want to pull the fabric taut, but not so much so that it's going to release and look saggy when you're done gluing.



Attach the Fabric

If the fabric is delicate and you don't want to cut and glue it, put pins at each end and each side to secure it. Just be sure to pull the fabric taut as you go, so you don't end up with any weird wrinkles. If you aren't emotionally attached to the fabric, follow these steps to finish off the back of the frame.



There will be excess fabric at the top and bottom of the canvas, so to handle it in a way that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, you're going to want to fold and glue the fabric to the canvas in a similar way that you'd finish wrapping a present. It will look finished and pretty once you're done.



Find a Place for It

Place the canvas art wherever you'd like. Add it to the top of your bookshelf or hang it on the wall. If you easily grow tired of decor, the beauty of this project—if the fabric isn't an heirloom or vintage piece—is that you can simply rip it off the canvas and start over!



Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/



Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





craft handmade, 5 minute craft, craft game, craft paper, craft meaning, craft apk, craft ideas, craft indonesia, diy craft paper, diy craft tutorial, diy craft youtube, diy craft indonesia, diy craft wood, diy craft room, diy crafts to sell, diy creative

November 01, 2019

how to make a small penguin christmas ornament

How to Make a Small Penguin Christmas Ornament.

Make a small penguin ornament suitable for hanging on a Christmas tree.



Steps.

1. Cut out the body, cut 2 pieces. Attach the white belly to the body using one strand of black embroidery floss folded in half. Knot the end just like sewing with thread. Refer to the picture in the same area you find the pattern.

2. Place the blank sides together. Sew the body together with black sewing thread, leaving the bottom open to turn and stuff later. Keep your stitches small and as close to the edge as possible without missing any areas. Turn the ornament right side out and check for any missed areas.

3. Stitch the hat together wrong sides together, then turn right side out. The hat base (the white square) fold into a long square then sew together with white sewing thread making a circle. Turn that right side out and glue that to the bottom of the hat. A hot glue gun is recommended it seems to stick a little better, but be careful of your fingers. Also, using hot glue, attach the pompom to the end of the hat. This is the reason his hat is flat at the tip, to accommodate for the pompom.

4. Take two small eyes and glue to the top of his belly part. Use just craft glue for this.

5. Fold the beak into a triangle (in half) and using the hot glue, glue the beak just below his eyes. Again, be careful with the little pieces.

6. Glue the finished hat onto his head with the hot glue. You can also put some fiberfill (stuffing) into the hat for body, before you glue it.

7. Cut a 12" by 1/2" strip of felt (of whatever color you'd like), and tie that around his missing neck above his arms and below his face. You might want to experiment with the width and length of the scarf. You can also cut the ends in strips to make a little fringe. Tie that around him, you might want to glue a small section of the back down, as well as underneath where it's tied just so it doesn't come apart. He'll catch cold if he doesn't have his scarf on.

8. Stuff his body to the desired girth you'd like him to have. Sew up the bottom.

9. Attach thread or ribbon to the back. The form is up to your own creative wishes.

10. Embellish it. For example, glue snowflake to his hat, and place a present in his hand.

11. Finished.



Tips.

Decorate as you see fit.

Change colors of the hats, scarf, etc.

Warnings.

If you use a hot glue gun, please supervise children.

Things You Need.

Felt (black for the body, white for the belly, a goldfish yellow color felt for the beak, red and white again for the hat and color of your choice for the scarf.)

Black embroidery floss, separated into strands, e.g. DMC #310.

Small googly eyes.

MM eyes.

A small white pompom.

Februari 10, 2020

how to make a standing tiger out of clay

How to Make a Standing Tiger Out of Clay.

Clay is fun to work with. You can make almost anything out of it; animals, objects, and more things. This article will talk about how you can make something out of clay in the animal "category", tigers.



Steps.

1. Find a flat, clean workspace to create your clay tiger. If you create it on a bumpy surface, the tiger might look bumpy or some parts smaller than the other, for example, the head is bumpy or one leg is bigger than the other. A flat space will help you make your clay tiger comfortably.

2. Start with a big piece of orange clay. Roll it into a ball. Shape it into a rectangular prism. Round the edges to help it look like a tiger's body.

3. Roll a smaller piece of orange clay into a ball. This will be the head. Stick the head at the end of the body with a toothpick.

To stick the head on, break a toothpick in half. Poke one of the halves of the toothpick in the place you're going to put the head. Stick the head onto the toothpick. Don't let any of the toothpick show up at the bottom, and make sure the toothpick doesn't stick out. The toothpick will help the head stay and not fall off.

4. Roll two small yellow balls of clay and add them to the bottom (not all the way at the bottom) of the head. Poke small holes in them.

5. Roll another small ball of yellow clay, and add them under the two muzzles, in the middle. You will see a mouth form.

6. Roll two small orange pieces of clay into two balls for the ears. Flatten them, but keep them a little thick. Stick them on top of the head, one on the left, one on the right.

7. Flatten two smaller pieces of black clay, and flatten (this time, not thick at all). Stick them on the front of the ears. These will show the inside of the ear.

8. Make eyes using two small balls of black clay. Stick them on the (not all the way on the top) top.

9. Add a nose using pink or black clay. Shape a ball of clay into a triangle and stick it in the high middle of the snout (where the muzzle and mouth are).

10. Make arms by rolling two cylinders of orange clay. Stick them to the front sides of the body.

11. Bend the end for paws. If you'd like, you can add pads and/or claws.

12. Make legs by rolling two cylinders of orange clay. Bend the ends to create paws. Stick the legs to the back sides of the body.

13. Make a tail by rolling a cylinder of orange clay into a thinner cylinder. Roll a black oval of clay and stick it at the end of the orange strip. Stick it where the bottom will be.

14. Make lots of strips of black clay. Stick them everywhere (not all over, or the tiger will be messy!) for stripes.

15. Finished.



Question : How do I make a real looking tiger?

Answer : Try adding some features like a more detailed face and more stripes. You could add whiskers by cutting small pieces of cord and sticking them into the clay before it dries.

Question : How could I add a mane for a lion?

Answer : Add some extra clay around the neck and spread it out to look like a mane.



Tips.

Use a toothpick to hold the head in place.

Make sure you don't put too many stripes on the face, or it may block the eyes and/or nose.

You can also make a sitting tiger if you'd like.

Be creative! You don't have to use orange, because if you want to create a Siberian tiger out of clay, you have to use white instead of orange.

Make sure that when you cook the tiger, the tiger is made of a clay you can cook, not one you can't cook. Baking one that cannot be cooked may cause fire and/or cause the clay to melt. Examples of clay that cannot be cooked are air-dry clay, modeling clay, play dough, etc.

You can make your tiger any size you want.

You can also paint the stripes after drying your tiger.

Warnings.

Do not cook clay that can't be cooked in the oven! It may cause a bad smell if it melts, or even a fire! Read the clay instructions before cooking first.

Things You'll Need.

Yellow, pink, orange, and black clay.

Toothpick.

Februari 12, 2020

how to make a sock monkey

How to Make a Sock Monkey.

This classic, goofy sock toy has been a favorite of children and adults for years. Making something this popular may sound like a daunting task, but it is actually quite easy. To make a sock monkey of your own, follow these steps.



Making the Legs.



Find two clean socks. The best ones will be ones with heels and toes in contrasting colors to the rest of the sock. One sock will be used to make the body, legs, and head, and the other will used to make the arms, tail, face, and ears.

These monkeys were traditionally made with “Rockford Red Heel Socks.” If you have striped socks, those work well, too. If your socks have cuffs, be sure to undo the seam carefully; the cuff length is needed for the length of the monkey.



Turn both socks inside-out.



Lay one sock with the heel flat down. You may have to flatten the sock against its natural crease to make this happen. If it's not cooperating, grab an iron and give it a quick once-over



Draw a center line on the sock from the toe to approximately one inch from the colored heel. This will become the split in the monkey’s legs. Again, note that the heel is actually hidden beneath the sock at this point, so you may have to flip it over briefly to double-check your positioning.

Erasable fabric marker works best for drawing. Make sure before you cut that your line is indeed on the halfway mark -- a monkey with one fat leg and one skinny leg is not a happy monkey.



With the sock still folded flat, sew up one side of your marked line and back down the other. Leave approximately 1/4 inch (.6 cm) between the line and each of your seams.

You can either use a sewing machine or sew by hand. If you're using a sewing machine, use your walking foot.



Cut along the line between your two seams. The monkey’s legs and colored feet will now be clearly visible.



Making the Body and Head



Turn the sock right-side out and stuff the entire thing. Polyfill stuffing is available at all craft supply stores. The upper half of the sock will become the torso and head.

The amount of stuffing is up to you. How firm do you want your monkey? If the sock is thin, you may want to err on the side of under stuffing, as overstuffing it may cause it to stretch.



Sew the head and/or hat. If your sock opening is the same color as the body of the sock, just make a nice rounded head and stitch it shut. If it is a contrasting color, you will need to decide if you want to cut it off (making a shorter body for the monkey) and make the head as usual or use the excess coloring as a "hat" by not stuffing the last inch or two and cinching the opening into a cone shape.

To make the head: Stitch around the neck with quarter inch stitches. Use sturdy thread such as embroidery floss. Pull the stitches snugly until you get the size neck you want and knot the ends. Round out the head area with stuffing as desired and stitch the top opening shut.



If you are making a hat, start working with the cuff. Gather the tip with large stitches and snug/cinch them closed. Fold the raw edges to the center and tuck inside. Then, stitch the opening closed. Winter ready!



Making the Arms, Tail, and Ears



Cut the second sock into sections as shown. Though the pattern is only drawn on the top, make sure to cut through both layers.



Fold both arm pieces in half lengthwise. Then sew up the open side in a gentle arc around the dark ends; the dark ends will become the paws and the opposites (open ends) are where the arm will be stuffed and then attached to the body.

Keep all of these sections open-ended. Make sure they're turned inside-out as you work! If they're not, all your seams will be very, very rough.



Fold the tailpiece in half lengthwise. Then sew up the open side and in a gentle arc around the dark end as you did with the arms; the dark end will become the tip of the tail and the opposite, open end is where the tail will be stuffed and attached to the body.



Fold each ear in half and cut across the crease. Then, sew in a gentle arc following the rounded sides, leaving the flat side open. The opening is where you will stuff each ear and then attach it to the body. Noticing a pattern?

If you'd like, you can then fold the ears again, forming a vertical line down the middle of the ear (giving it depth like a real ear has). Basically, pinch the edge you just sewed in and bring the two points together. Slip stitch the two sides together.



For now, do nothing with the muzzle (formerly the heel). That part's saved for later.



Flip the sewn pieces right-side out and stuff them. You should now have two arms, two ears, a tail, and an unsewn, unstuffed nose.

The tail may prove to be a bit of a problem. You could try to stuff it using regular polyfill stuffing and a pencil to poke it through, or you could use batting or part of an aquarium filter. Both the batting and the filter are a bit firmer and will create a more uniform-looking tail in the long run.



Attach the tail to the rump. Position it carefully and slip stitch it all the way around.



Attach the arms to either side of the body. You may want them a little higher than your natural inclination says; this will give your sock a more monkey-like posture.



Assembling the Face and Ears



Trim away the edges of the heel piece if necessary. Since this will form the muzzle, try to make sure the piece of fabric is uniform in color. Note that, since the outermost edges will be covered, you do not have to make them perfect.



Fold the bottom of the muzzle under and sew it to the bottom of the monkey's chin. Make sure no raw edges are visible along the bottom, but leave the top open for now.



Add stuffing to make the muzzle puff out. You may want to refer to existing images of sock monkeys as to how this should look. The best sock monkeys seem to have a muzzle that puffs out at nearly a 90º angle.



Fold the raw edge under and stitch the top edge to the face. The muzzle should take up a large amount of the area for the head -- don't worry about needing space for the rest of his features.

Go ahead, give your monkey a mouth! Along the toe line of the muzzle (which should be dead center) branch stitch in a contrasting color of thread.

If you'd like nostrils, simply embroider two small rectangles above the mouth about 1" (2.5 cm) apart.



Fold the raw edges of each ear to the inside and stitch them closed. Stitch the completed ears to the sides of the head. They should be in line with where the eyes will be, just above the muzzle. Make sure they stick out from the front!



Add button eyes. To give your monkey whites on the outside of his eyes, glue or sew the buttons onto a bit of white felt. Then, with thread of a contrasting color, sew on the felt just above the muzzle. You now have an adorable sock monkey!

For a non-demonic looking monkey, stick to black buttons. The size you need depends on the size of your monkey. And if you're giving it to a child, either avoid the buttons entirely or make sure they're sewn on really well !







Tips.

Important: when stuffing the sock monkey, use small pieces of stuffing. Using bigger pieces may be quicker, but the results aren't satisfying at all. The project will come out lumpy and, well, ugly. Smaller pieces leave a smooth finish. It may help to use the eraser end of a pencil to gently push stuffing into place.

To add personality to your monkey you can cut out a red heart and put it in your monkey's chest before you sew it up.

You can use fabric glue to add the eyes instead of sewing them on.



Further ideas.

Sew a tiny red vest for the monkey with buttons down the front to make him/her look like an organ grinder's monkey.

Embroider a mouth line on the nose or eyebrows for added expression.

Cinch elbows, knees, wrists and ankles for the monkey using the same technique as for the neck.

Add a pom pom to the hat for a winter monkey, or a flower to the hat for a spring monkey, etc.

Sew a fabric banana into the monkey's hand.

Sew a tiny red heart on the monkey's chest.

Knit a scarf for more winter fun.

If you don't have stuffing, you can use old pieces of t-shirts, crushed and dried flower petal, used dryer sheets, tissue paper, yarn, grass or rice.

If you don't have any buttons, you could use googly eyes instead.

Bright colored socks work well. Also spots and stripes are great.

Eyes can also be drawn onto your monkey. Embroidery is another option.



Warnings.

If you're giving the sock monkey to a child under three years old, don't use buttons for the eyes. If they come loose, they could end up in the child's mouth. Instead, embroider the eyes on, use child-safe doll/cat eyes, or use nontoxic fabric paint or markers to draw the eyes or use felt eyes.

Use only socks you have permission to cut up.

Scissors and needles are sharp. Be careful when using them.



Things You'll Need.

One pair of socks with contrasting colored heels and toes.

Stuffing.

Embroidery floss or yarn to match your sock.

Sewing supplies: needles, sewing machine, scissors, etc.

A bright pen/marker to copy the pattern onto the socks.

Two buttons for eyes (optional).

Extra fabric for additional details (optional).

Iron (if necessary)

November 07, 2019

how to easy make tape

How to Easy Make Tape

While it is possible to make your own adhesive tape, the reality is that it’s faster and cheaper to simply buy a new roll. If you're more interested in creatively altering tape to make it more crafty or convenient, though, you have several options. You can, for instance, create washi-style tape for decorative purposes, turn toilet paper into seed tape to make planting easier, or use duct tape from a standard roll to make a handy pocket-size duct tape dispenser.


Method 1 Decorating Homemade Washi-Style Tape.

1. Adhere strips of clear double-sided tape to wax paper. Tear a sheet of wax paper that is as long as you’d like your finished rolls of faux washi tape to be—6–12 in (15–30 cm) is a good length range. Then, unroll strips of double-sided tape and stick one side of each strip along the length of the wax paper.

Clear double-sided tape comes in rolls just like single-sided clear tape.

You can easily fit 6-8 strips of tape across a sheet of wax paper.

True washi tape is made of paper derived from trees and shrubs native to Japan. It has a masking tape-like texture, but is better known for having intricate decorative designs on it.

2. Trim the excess wax paper around each strip of tape. Use scissors to cut the wax paper between each strip of tape, then cut around the edges of each strip of tape. Get as close as you can to the edges of the tape—sharp crafting scissors are best for this job.

The wax paper is just there to preserve the sticky side of your finished tape.

3. Press the sticky side of each strip of tape onto a sheet of tissue paper. Gather up several sheets of tissue paper with designs that catch your eye, and lay them flat on the table. Adhere your tape strips to the tissue paper and press them down firmly.

If you don’t mind making shorter rolls of tape, you can unfold decorated napkins and use them instead. Scrapbook paper is another option. If you’re not concerned with your tape having a washi-style papery feel, you can use wrapping paper.

4. Trim off the excess tissue paper around the tape strips. In this case, you may be able to simply tear the paper away around the edges of each tape strip. Or, as with the wax paper, you can use crafting scissors.

Work carefully to create neat edges along your tape strips. Most people use washi tape for decorative purposes, so you want the design pattern to look good.

5. Wrap the tape around a cut-to-width paper towel roll tube. Use scissors to cut an empty paper towel roll tube into several smaller tubes. Make each one no more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wider than your tape strips. Then, wrap each strip of your decorated tape around one of these tubes, with the waxed paper side down.

You can secure the rolled tape in place with a twist-tie or string. Just feed the string or tie through the hole in the tube and around the tape roll near its end, then tie or twist it in place.

When you're ready to use the tape, just unroll the length you need, cut it, and peel away the wax paper backing to reveal the sticky side.


Things You’ll Need.

Creating Washi-Style Decorative Tape.

Double-sided tape.

Crafting scissors.

Decorated tissue paper or napkins.

Empty paper towel roll tube.

String or twist ties.





Method 2 Making Seed Tape for Gardening.



1. Unroll lengths of toilet paper to match your planting rows. For instance, if your garden has 6 planting rows that are each 8 ft (2.4 m) long, unroll 6 strips of toilet paper that are each that length. Lay the strips out on an open area of flooring—preferably in a garage, basement, or workshop.

However, if your garden has narrow planting rows (less than 1 ft (30 cm) apart), you only need half as many toilet paper strips as you have planting rows, because you'll be cutting the strips in half lengthwise.

You’ll be working with glue and permanent marker, so you may not want to do this job on your nice living room rug.

Save any empty toilet paper roll tubes. In fact, try to save up empty tubes for several weeks beforehand, so you have as many tubes as planting rows.



2. Trim the paper lengthwise if you have narrow planting rows. If your rows will be spaced at least 1 ft (30 cm) apart, leave the toilet paper as-is. If your row spacing is narrower, cut each strip of toilet paper in half lengthwise with scissors.

Alternatively, you could cut a length of paper towel into 3-4 thinner strips for use in narrow planting rows.



3. Measure and mark your ideal seed spacing along each paper strip. If, for instance, you’re using seeds that should be planted 6 in (15 cm) apart, use a ruler and permanent marker to place dots every 6 in (15 cm) along the strip. Center the dots widthwise on the toilet paper.

Look on the seed package for the recommended spacing. If you don’t have a package, search online for the best spacing for that particular seed.



4. Place a small dab of all-purpose glue on each marker dot. The same white glue that kids use in school (also known as PVA glue) is ideal for this job. Apply just a tiny dot of glue on top of each marker dot along the length of each toilet paper strip.

Glue sticks, paste, and rubber cement will shred the delicate toilet paper, while super glue might soak through the paper and stick to your floor.



5. Stick a single seed to each glue dab. Pour your seeds out on a plate, then use your fingers or tweezers to pick up a single seed at a time. Drop the seed onto the first dot of wet glue along your paper strip, and keep going until you’ve “seeded” every glue dot.

You’ll have around 10-15 minutes to work before the glue dries. If you don’t think you can stick all your seeds in place by then, only add glue to a single strip of toilet paper at a time.



6. Roll up the seed tape after the glue dries. Give the glue at least 15 minutes to dry thoroughly. Test it with your finger to confirm it’s dry. Then, roll each seed tape strip onto an empty toilet paper tube.

Label each rolled-up strip with a marker if you have several different types of seed strips.

Store the seed tapes in a cool, dry place—for instance, in a paper lunch sack in your pantry—until you’re ready to plant them.

This is a good job to do within about a month of when you intend to plant the seeds.



7. Unroll, cover, and soak the paper strips to plant the seeds. When it’s time to plant, simply unroll each strip of paper over its intended planting row. Then, cover the paper lightly with soil, to the recommended depth on the seed package (for instance, 0.5 in (1.3 cm)). Water the area thoroughly and keep it moist (as per the seed instructions) until you see seedlings appear.

You can unroll the paper seed-side up or down—it doesn’t make a difference.

If it’s a breezy day, use small rocks to keep the seed strips from blowing away while you unroll them.



Things You’ll Need.

Making Seed Tape for Gardening.

Toilet paper rolls.

Empty toilet paper roll tubes.

Ruler.

Marker.

All-purpose glue.

Seeds.

Scissors (optional).





Method 3 Creating a Pocket-Size Duct Tape Roll.



1. Cut a 2 in × 4.5 in (5.1 cm × 11.4 cm) rectangle from an index card. You can also use thin cardboard for this task. If the duct tape you’ll be using is wider or narrower than 2 in (5.1 cm), cut the card to that width instead.

Most standard duct tape rolls sold in the U.S. are 2 in (5.1 cm) wide.

You can make the card a bit longer or shorter than 4.5 in (11 cm) if desired, but this is a good pocket-size length.

You can use an expired or used-up gift card as the base for your pocket-size duct tape roll, instead of a cut index card.



2. Wrap a length of duct tape around the entire card. Cover the entire card (both sides) lengthwise in a single strip of duct tape, allowing the tape to overlap itself by about 1 in (2.5 cm). Press the tape firmly onto the card and itself at the overlap.

This piece of tape is a permanent application, intended to make it easier to dispense the tape you’ll add on top of it.



3. Wrap a single strip of tape around the card several times. Work your way around the card lengthwise as many times as you prefer. Press the tape lightly to the layer beneath it as you work.

You can probably fit around 15 ft (4.6 m) of tape on the card before it becomes too bulky for your convenience.

Simply peel and tear the tape as needed to use it. You can refill the card with tape as often as you like.





Things You’ll Need.

Creating a Pocket-Size Duct Tape Roll.

Index card or thin cardboard.

Scissors.

Ruler.

Roll of duct tape.

November 24, 2019

how to do gunpowder art

How to Do Gunpowder Art.

If you’re tired of drawing and painting, try out the exciting process of creating art with gunpowder and fire! Use acrylic paper, canvas, or wood to create a variety of burn styles. Make some abstract art by spreading the gunpowder at random, or use brushes to create a detailed, original picture. After you get the gunpowder where you want it, grab a fire starter and let the fun part begin! Light the powder and watch it burn to create your unique artwork.







Gathering Your Supplies



Buy medium to fine grain gunpowder. Go to a local gun shop, outdoor store, or browse online to buy gunpowder. Choose small grain powder because it is easier to arrange on the artwork surface. Small grain powder creates the effect without creating a large fire.

There is not a particular brand that you need to buy, just avoid getting coarse grain powder as a beginner.



Put the gunpowder into a squeeze bottle with a narrow nozzle. Look in the grocery store for the type of plastic bottle that you’d put condiments in. Make sure it has is nozzle that allows a small amount of the contents to flow out. This is optional, but it works best for beginners.

This helps you spread the gunpowder precisely on the artwork surface. It makes the process easier and allows for greater detail.



Use paper, canvas, or wood as the base of the artwork. Use acrylic coated paper, untreated wood, or standard painting canvas. Work outside on a hard, fire-resistant surface if the weather permits. If you must work indoors, do it in a garage or shop with a concrete floor and ventilation.

It’s best not to do this inside your house or in another place that’s a fire hazard.

If it is windy or rainy, you won’t be able to keep the gunpowder in the shape you want on the artwork surface.



Making the Art



Sprinkle the gunpowder from the bottle onto the base. Use the squirt bottle to draw with the gunpowder. Make a picture of something specific or make a series of patterns and abstract shapes. Be as detailed as you want, depending on what you want to create.

If the opening of the condiment bottle is too small, cut a bit off to widen it.

If you don’t use a bottle with a nozzle, pour the gunpowder out of its container or scoop some out with a spoon and spread it around.



Use a sponge brush or paint brush to move the gunpowder around. If you want to draw something more detailed that sprinkling the gunpowder allows, use paint tools to add details. A sponge brush works well because it allows you to push the grains around into detailed shapes.

Even if you don’t want to make a specific picture, brushes give you greater ability to shape the gunpowder than sprinkling it gives you.



Make designs with rocks, boards, or pieces of metal. Set objects on top of the gunpowder to affect the explosions when you light it. Place objects around the gunpowder so the fire burns the outline of the objects. Experiment with different rocks and pieces of wood to create unique designs.

For example, spread the gunpowder in a thin, even layer across the whole canvas. Set a dozen small stones around the canvas on top of the powder to change how it burns.

Spread the gunpowder, and set a few wrenches on top of it to burn the wrench shapes into the canvas.

Any object that won’t catch fire easily is fair game to add to the artwork. Be creative and experiment to find what makes the coolest designs.







Lighting the Gunpowder Safely



Wear gloves and safety glasses when you light the gunpowder. Since gunpowder is explosive, be sure to wear thick gloves made of fabric, not rubber or plastic. Also wear a good pair of safety glasses to protect your eyes in case something sparks.



Use a fuse so you have time to move back. If you are worried about the gunpowder catching fire too quickly, place a fuse at the edge of the artwork. Use a foot (.3 m) or two (.6 m) of 2.5 mm (.09 in) artillery fuse. Lay it so it touches the gunpowder and extends off of the base.

It’s okay to light the gunpowder directly, but you may not feel comfortable doing this. A fuse also adds a neat effect when it burns the artwork.



Light the fuse or the gunpowder near an edge or corner of the artwork. If you use fuse, simply light the end that extends off of the artwork. If you choose to light the gunpowder directly, light it at a corner or edge of the design. This is the best way to allow the fire to spread across the artwork.



Stand at a distance while the gunpowder burns. As soon as you light the gunpowder or fuse, step back three feet or more from the artwork. In case a bit of the gunpowder pops, you don’t want to be close. You also want to avoid breathing the smoke directly into your nose and mouth.



Keep a fire extinguisher or water on hand in case the fire spreads. Even though this is a controlled setting, it is still fire and requires you to take precautions. Watch the artwork carefully, and act immediately if you feel that it is getting out of hand.



Remove debris from the artwork after the fire goes out. When all of the gunpowder is burned up, it will most likely leave some particles. Shake the excess into the trash, scrape it off, or use a vacuum wand to clean it off. If you like the way it looks and it’s burned on, leave it as part of the artwork.





Warnings.

Children should not do this type of artwork without close adult supervision.

Clear anything flammable far away from the spot where you’re working.

November 13, 2019

how to make a polymer clay penguin

How to Make a Polymer Clay Penguin.

There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!

Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.

1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.

2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.

3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.

4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.

5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.

6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.

7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.

8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.

9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.

Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.

Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.

10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.

11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.

12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.

13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.

14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.

15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.

If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.

16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.

17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.

Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.

1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.

Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!

2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.

3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.

4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.

5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.

6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.

7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.

If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.

8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.

9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.

If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.

10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.

11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.

Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.

Tips.

You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.

Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).

If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.

Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.

Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.

You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.

If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.

If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.

Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.

Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.



Warnings.

Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.



Things You'll Need

Making a Basic Penguin.

Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.

Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).



Making a Penguin Charm.

Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.

Oven, Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Orange acrylic paint, Thin paintbrush, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).

Januari 25, 2020

how to making a fancy goldfish lantern

How to Making a Fancy Goldfish Lantern.

Goldfish are a classic fish, and very popular when it comes to decorating a party or room with an underwater theme. Instead of using paper cutouts of goldfish, why not make 3D goldfish out of paper lanterns? They are lightweight, colorful, and very easy to make! You can make a simple goldfish by adding some eyes and fins out of construction paper, or you can get fancier with tissue paper instead!


Steps.

1. Get a solid-colored paper lantern and open it up. The smaller your lantern is, the easier it will be to work with. Look for something that is about 12 inches (30.48 centimeters) in diameter. Most goldfish are orange, but you can make your goldfish any color you want.

2. Trace a circle that is the same size as the smaller opening on your lantern onto a sheet of tissue paper. Choose a different color than your lantern. It can be lighter, darker, or even a contrasting color.

Make the circle as even as you can. If possible, use a pencil to trace around to smaller opening of the lantern.

If both of the openings are the same size, simply choose one of them.

3. Trace a larger circle around the first circle. How much space you leave between the two circles depends on the size of you lantern. The bigger your lantern is, the more space you will need. Start with ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) and go from there.

4. Cut the circles out, then save the ring. Discard the inner circle, or save it for another project.

5. Use a glue stick to glue the ring onto the smaller opening. This will create an open mouth for the goldfish. If you have any excess tissue paper hanging over the opening, you can trim it off with a pair of scissors, or fold it into the lantern and secure it with more glue.

6. Cut two circles out of white tissue paper, and two smaller circles out of black cardstock or construction paper. If you don't have any white tissue paper, you can use white printer paper instead.

7. Glue the black circles onto the white circles, then the white circles onto the lantern. Glue the white circles above the "mouth" and slightly to the side.

8. Cut out two top fin shapes out of tissue paper. Stack two sheets of tissue paper, then cut a fin shape out; this way, you will end up with two matching fins. Use a color that matches your lantern.

Most top fins will be long and somewhat skinny. Make sure that yours is at least 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) tall.

9. Glue them together, except for the bottom ½ to 1 inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters). Use a pair of scissors to trim of any overhanging tissue paper. The double tissue paper layer will help the top fin stand up.

10. Fold the loose ends of the fin down to create two flaps, then attach it to the fish. Place a strip of double-sided tape to each flap, then place the fin on top of the fish. Run your finger across the top of each flap to seal the tape.

11. Cut out two side fins out of matching tissue paper, then attach them to the sides of the fish. You can use a glue stick or double-sides tape for this. Make sure that you are only gluing the bottom edge so that the fins can flap around. You don't have to create double layers for these or fold any flaps.

The side fins can be as long and flowing as you'd like.

12. Cut out two tail shapes out of matching tissue paper. Stack two sheets of tissue paper, then cut a tail fin out; you will end up with two identical shapes. You will be fitting the tail over the back hole on your lantern, so be sure to add ½ of the hole's width, plus an additional ½ to 1 inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters).

13. Glue them together, except for the bottom few inches. How much you leave unglued depends on the excess amount you added. Once again, use a pair of scissors to trim off any overhanging pieces of tissue paper.

14. Fold the loose ends out to create flaps, then attach them to the back of the fish. Position the tail over the back opening. Fold the excess tissue paper over the edges of the opening, then glue or tape them down onto the body of the fish.

15. Use a needle to thread clear string through the top of the fish. Be sure to go under one of the metal ribs to prevent the tissue paper from tearing.

16. Tie the string into a loop, then hang your fish. This fish makes a great decoration for parties or underwater themed rooms. Be careful not to get it wet, however!



Tips

Create a goldfish family and purchase paper lanterns in a variety of sizes.

Paint designs or scales onto your lantern using acrylic paint or glitter glue.

For a more organic look, paint your own paper with acrylic or watercolor paint, and use that instead of the construction paper.

Instead of tissue paper, try organza or tulle! Use hot glue to attach it to the lantern.


Things You'll Need.

Paper lantern.

Tissue paper (same color as lantern, contrasting color, and white).

Cardstock or construction paper.

Scissors.

Glue stick.

Double-sided tape.

String.

Needle.

Desember 24, 2019

how to crochet basic fish amigurumi

How to Crochet Basic Fish Amigurumi.

With a skein of yarn or less, you can make a three-dimensional or two-dimensional fish. Completing either project will take a moderate amount of time, but with enough patience and basic knowledge of essential crochet stitches, you can easily work up a cute fish of your own.

Steps.

1. Make a magic ring. This pattern starts with a standard magic ring using six chains.

Wrap the yarn around your fingers, creating a loop. The attached end should be to the right and the tail should be to the left.

Insert the hook through the loop from front to back, then use it to pull yarn through the ring, creating a second loop.

Chain stitch six times. If you do not know how to chain stitch, please consult the "Tips" section of this article.

Hold the attached end of the yarn taut while gently pulling down on the tail end. The stitches should close together at the center and complete the ring.

Slip stitch into the first stitch of the magic ring to advance to your first official round. If you do not know how to slip stitch, please see the "Tips" section of this article.

2. Single crochet into the ring. Work one single crochet into each stitch of your magic ring to complete the first official round.

Check the "Tips" section of this article for information about single crocheting.

This round should have six stitches in it.

3. Increase for the second round. Work one single crochet into the first stitch of your first round, then single crochet increase by two into the next stitch. Repeat this pattern a total of three times to complete this round.

To do a single crochet increase, simply work two single crochets into one stitch.

When done, this round should have nine stitches.

4. Increase again for the third round. Work one single crochet into each of the first two stitches of the previous round, then work two single crochets into the stitch after that (making a single crochet increase). Repeat a total of three times to complete the round.

When finished, this round should have 12 stitches.

5. Single crochet into each stitch. For the fourth round, work one single crochet into each stitch of the previous round.

This round should also have a total of 12 stitches.

6. Increase in the fifth round. Work one single crochet into each of the first three stitches, then work two single crochets into the stitch after that. Repeat a total of three times to complete the round.

When finished, this round should have 15 stitches in it.

7. Single crochet the next three rounds. For the sixth round, simply work one single crochet into each stitch of the previous round. Repeat this same pattern to complete rounds seven and eight, as well.

Each of these rounds will have a total of 15 stitches.

8. Add the safety eyes. The head of your fish is finished at this point, so you should be able to place the safety eyes accurately. The eyes should go on either side of the fish head and should be placed somewhere in between rounds three and four.

To place the eyes, slide the rod of the eye through the correct placement from the front of the work. Place your second eye in, as well, and adjust the two as needed to get them looking the way you want.

Once the eyes are placed as you'd like, push the washer onto the rod of the eye from the back of the work. Push it down as far as possible until the washer rests against the yarn. Repeat this step for the second eye, as well.

Note that the eyes will no longer be movable once you put the washers on.

9. Decrease for the ninth round. Work one single crochet into each of the first three stitches, then single crochet decrease into the next two stitches after that. Perform this process a total of three times to complete the round.

Essentially, a single crochet decrease is a standard single crochet stitch worked into two stitches instead of one. To make a single crochet decrease, draw a loop up from the next stitch, then draw a second loop up from the next stitch immediately after that. Yarn over the hook, then draw that yarn-over through all three loops on your hook to complete one single crochet decrease.

This round should have 12 stitches in it when finished.

10. Stuff the fish. Enough of the fish body should be finished at this point to begin the stuffing process. Add as much stuffing to the head and body as you can without interfering with the remainder of your stitch work.

From this point on, you will need to gradually add more stuffing as you go.

11. Decrease the next two rounds. For rounds 10 and 11, you will need to continue decreasing your stitches. In doing so, you will bring the body of the fish to its end.

For round 10, work two single crochets into each of the first two stitches, then work one single crochet decrease over the next two stitches after that. Perform this process a total of three times to complete a round of nine stitches.

For round 11, work one single crochet into the first stitch of the previous round. Work a single crochet decrease into the next two stitches after that, and continue decreasing for a total of four stitches. When done, this round should only have five stitches.

12. Increase the next two rounds. For rounds 12 and 13, you will work two single crochet into each stitch of the previous round.

Work two single crochets into each stitch for the twelfth round, repeating the increase process five times and giving you a total of 10 stitches.

Work two single crochets into each stitch for the thirteenth round, repeating the increase process 10 times and giving you a total of 20 stitches.

Slip stitch the last and first stitch of the final round together before closing off the fish.

13. Close the base of the fish. Cut the yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring at least 4 inches (10 cm) that you can use to close the base of the fish.

Weave the excess yarn into the center of the caudal tail using your crochet hook.

Catch five stitches in the center of the caudal tail using your crochet hook, then pull the excess yarn through all five stitches to tightly draw the hole closed.

Pull the excess yarn through the remaining loop on your hook to form a secure knot.

Weave any remaining yarn into the stitches of the tail, hiding it from sight and completing the closing process.

Make sure that you have added all the plush stuffing you need to the head, body, and tail of the fish before closing it off.

14. Add a dorsal fin. To make the fish look more realistic, you'll need to add one dorsal fin along the top edge of the fish.

Use a tapestry needle to weave the yarn under one stitch along the top edge. This stitch should be centered in between the eyes and on the same round as the eyes.

Make a slipknot to attach the yarn to the hook. If you do not know how to make a slipknot, consult the "Tips" section. Keep a long tail behind this slipknot.

Insert the needle into the round directly behind your current stitch, maintaining your current alignment as best as possible. Work one single crochet into this stitch.

Work three half double crochets into the stitches behind your current one. Complete these stitches in a straight line along the top of the fish. If you do not know how to work a half double crochet, please check the "Tips" section of this article.

Work one slip stitch at the base of the fin to smooth it out.

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Weave the excess yarn into the center of the caudal fin at the back of the fish, then draw the remaining excess through the loop on your hook to knot it off.

15. Add two pectoral fins. You will need to make one pectoral fin on either side of the fish body. When you complete these fins, your amigurumi fish will be finished.

Use a tapestry needle to weave the yarn under one stitch lying two rounds behind the eyes and lying one stitch below the eye on one side.

slipknot the yarn onto the hook, leaving a long tail of yarn.

Work five half double crochets into one stitch.

Cut off the yarn, leaving another long tail. Weave the excess yarn tails into the center of the caudal fin on the back of the fish, then draw the excess yarn through the loop on your hook to make a knot.

Repeat on the exact opposite side of your fish to make a second pectoral fin.

This completes your project.

Tips.

To make a chain stitch:

Wrap the attached side of the yarn in between the hook and the loop already on the hook.

Pull this yarn through the loop on your hook to complete the stitch.

To make a slip stitch:

Insert the hook through the indicated stitch.

Yarn over the hook.

Pull the yarn through the all loops previously gathered on the hook to complete the stitch.

To work a single crochet:

Insert the hook into the indicated stitch.

Catch the yarn with your hook and pull it through to the front of the stitch. There should be two loops on your hook.

Yarn over the hook

Pull the yarn-over through both loops on your hook to complete the stitch.

To make a slip knot on your crochet hook:

Cross the attached end of the yarn over the working end, creating a loop.

Push the attached side of the yarn into this loop from beneath it, creating a second loop. Tighten the first loop to secure the second loop.

Insert the crochet hook into the second loop and tighten it.

To work a half double crochet:

Yarn over the hook, then insert the hook through the indicated stitch.

Yarn over the hook again and pull that yarn back through to the front of the stitch.

Yarn over the hook once more, then pull this yarn-over through all three loops on your hook to finish the stitch.

To make a double crochet:

Yarn over the hook.

Insert the hook into the indicated stitch.

Catch the yarn with the hook and pull it back through to the front of the stitch. You should have three loops on your hook.

Wrap the yarn over the hook again, then draw the yarn through the first two loops on your hook.

Yarn over the hook once more, and draw it through the last two loops on the hook to complete the stitch.



Things You'll Need :

Medium weight yarn, 1 pair of 6 mm safety eyes, 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook, Tapestry needle, Plush stuffing, Scissors.

Desember 07, 2019

how to make a ball

How to Make a Ball.

Balls provide endless entertainment for kids and adults alike, so make your own if you want a fun toy to play with this weekend. But there are balls for other occasions, too. If you’re having a rough week, for instance, create a stress ball to squeeze when you just want to scream. Or get creative and make balls out of things like rubber bands, fabric, and even cheese!

Method 1 Making a Bouncy Ball.

1. Combine school glue, cornstarch, and any add-ins in a bowl. Stir together the 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch until they’re thoroughly combined, using a spoon or wooden stick. If you want to add any extras, like food coloring or glitter, do so now.

You can use either white or clear school glue. If you use white glue and don’t add any coloring, your ball will be white.

Fun Add-Ins for Your Bouncy Ball

Sprinkle in glitter for a little extra sparkle.

Squeeze in a few drops of food coloring to make a ball in your favorite hue.

Stir glow in the dark paint into the glue for a ball that can be used at night.

Swirl 2 colors of food coloring together if you want a multi-colored masterpiece.

2. Stir warm water and Borax together in a separate bowl. Mix 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water and 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax until the Borax is completely dissolved. Stir vigorously to ensure there are no clumps of powder left in the bowl.

Heat the water in the microwave or on the stove until it’s warm to the touch. It shouldn’t be boiling.

You can find Borax in the laundry aisle of a store.

Borax is safe to use, but it's poisonous if ingested in large quantities. If you or your child get it in your eyes or mouth, contact poison control immediately.

3. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of the Borax mixture in the bowl with the glue. Do not stir the ingredients together when you add them. Simply pour the Borax and water into the other bowl containing the glue and cornstarch.

Set aside the remaining Borax mixture if you plan on making more balls.

4. Let the mixture sit for 15 seconds. This allows time for the Borax to react with the glue, making the polymers of the glue link together which will create the ball shape. If you start stirring right away, the bouncy ball may not form or harden properly.

Set a kitchen timer or use the clock app on your phone to keep track of the time.

5. Use a spoon to combine the ingredients until they’re too thick to stir. Within 1 to 2 minutes, the mixture will thicken. Stir vigorously while the mixture is still liquid to make sure the ingredients are blended well.

Choose a sturdy spoon, like a metal or thick plastic one. Something flimsy, like a plastic spoon, will likely break off in the goo.

If you’ve made homemade slime with Borax, this process is very similar.

6. Remove the mixture and roll it between your hands to form a ball. Once the mixture is too thick for your spoon or stick, pull it out of the bowl and place it between your palms. Roll it around by moving your hands in circular motions until the ball is no longer sticky.

The more you handle the ball, the more firm it will become.

If you’re having trouble getting rid of the stickiness, dip the ball in the Borax water, then roll it a little more. This should remove any tacky texture.

7. Let the ball harden for about 10 to 20 minutes before you use it. This dries the ball a little more, so that it’s extra bouncy. If the ball starts to flatten while it sits, simply roll it back into shape when you’re ready to play with it.

Once you’re done playing, store the ball in an airtight container to prevent it from drying out. Keep it in a cool, dark place, like the pantry.

If stored properly, your ball could last for up to 6 months. It won’t go bad, but it will dry out eventually.

To make more bouncy balls, mix up another batch of glue and cornstarch and use some of the leftover Borax and water mixture.

Things You'll Need.

2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water, 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch.

Spoon or wooden stick, 2 cups or small bowls, Food coloring or other add-ins (optional), Airtight container (optional).

Method 2 Creating a Paper Soccer Ball.

1. Trace 20 hexagons on white paper, then cut them out. Draw your hexagons on the paper with a template, making each side the exact same length. Use scissors to carefully cut along the traced shapes, then set them aside.

If you want a life-sized soccer ball, make the edges 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.

To make a template, use a ruler to draw the hexagon shape on a piece of cardboard. Cut it out and trace around it with a pencil to make each paper hexagon.

Cardstock is the best type of paper to use for this craft. It’s sturdy enough to hold the shape of the ball yet still easy to fold.

2. Trace and cut out 12 black pentagons with sides the same length. The edges of the black and white pieces need to be equal so that they fit together properly. Use a template to draw your pentagon shapes, then cut them out with scissors.

For example, if you’re creating a life-sized ball, make your pentagon sides 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.

You can use a different color paper instead of black, or get creative and make a multi-colored ball with a variety of shades.

Cut a pentagon template out of cardboard to trace on the black paper so that the pieces are all equal size.

3. Fold up a thin border around each hexagon and pentagon. This edge will allow you to build your ball seamlessly, so there are no gaps between pieces. You only want to fold enough of each edge to have a place to apply glue or tape. Keep the border size equal on each piece so they all remain the same size after folding.

To fold the same border on each piece, trace the border before you fold, using a ruler to ensure each edge is an equal width.

Use a straight edge, like a ruler, to help you fold the edges in a perfect line.

If the edges are crooked, re-fold them. They have to be straight for your ball to be the right shape.

To make folding easier, snip off the corners of your border before you fold. This allows you to fold the edges up without dealing with corners that crumple up or stick out.

4. Apply glue or tape to the folded edges of each piece. This is how you’ll stick the the pieces together to form the ball. Swipe glue on each of the edges of all the hexagons and pentagons. You can also use a strip of tape on the edges instead.

A glue stick will work better than liquid glue to prevent the paper edges from getting soggy.

If you are slow at putting the ball together, you may want to apply the glue as you go, rather than all at once. Otherwise, it will dry out on the final pieces by the time you get to them.

5. Attach 5 white hexagons to 1 black pentagon. On a standard soccer ball, each black piece is completely surrounded by white pieces. Press 1 white hexagon onto each edge of a black pentagon. Hold the edges together until the glue dries.

If you’re using a glue stick, the glue will dry almost instantly. Wait about 5 to 10 seconds while pressing the edges against one another.

6. Continue gluing the pieces together in this pattern, forming the soccer ball. On the other edges of the white hexagons that you attached to the original pentagon, glue more black pentagons. Don’t forget to glue the white edges that touch each other, too. Once you connect all of the pieces, you’ll have a ball shape.

A black piece should never touch another black piece. However, white edges will touch other white edges.

If you’re having trouble visualizing the pattern, look up an image of a soccer ball online as a guide.

You can stuff the ball with shreds of paper if you want to create a fuller shape.

Things You'll Need.

Black and white sheets of paper, Scissors, Cardboard.

Pencil or pen, Glue stick or tape, Homemade Stress Ball, 12 in (30 cm) latex balloon.

Method 3 Using Play Dough for a Homemade Stress Ball.

1. Use your hands to roll play dough into a long shape. Place a pile of play dough on a flat surface, then gently roll it out with the palms of your hands. This should form what looks like a snake.

It doesn’t matter what color play dough you use, since it will just be going inside the balloon.

Buy pre-made play dough or make your own at home.

If you buy play dough, use one 5 oz (140 g) container per balloon.

2. Insert the play dough into the balloon. Stretch the neck of the balloon open as wide as you can, then stuff the play dough snake into the balloon. The play dough should fill the balloon just to the base of the neck.

If there is a lot of empty space in the balloon, add more play dough.

Stretch out the neck of the balloon before you insert the play dough to loosen it up.

This step is easier if you have someone else hold the balloon open while you put the play dough inside.

3. Tie a knot in the neck at the top of the balloon to secure it. This will keep all of the play dough inside the balloon. Wrap the neck around your finger to make your knot, tying it as tightly as possible.

If you want extra protection, you can place your original balloon inside another empty balloon before tying it shut. This adds a double layer in case you poke a hole.

You can decorate your stress balls with permanent markers if you’d like. For example, you could draw a funny face or write a calming phrase, like “just breathe.”

Things You'll Need.

Permanent marker (optional).

Method 4 Forming Other Types of Balls.

1. Build a rubber band ball for a creative way to store supplies. Instead of tossing your rubber bands in a drawer, keep them together in 1 big ball. Fold up a thick rubber band to form the center, then begin wrapping all of other bands around it. Criss-cross directions often to round out the ball.

You can also wrap your bands around a bouncy ball or crumpled-up piece of paper for a larger ball.

Start with smaller rubber bands, then add the larger ones as the ball gets bigger.

2. Sew a fabric ball if you want a soft toy for kids or pets. Young children, particularly babies, could get injured by hard rubber balls. Instead, stitch together a ball out of strips of fabric, then stuff it with polyfill for a plush feel or use dried beans for a bean bag texture.

This also makes a great pet toy for dogs to chew on or for cats to bat around. If the ball is for a pet, pick a durable fabric like vinyl or nylon and keep your pet in sight as it plays with the ball.

You can use a sewing machine to make your ball or sew it by hand.

Cotton is ideal for kids’ toys since it’s a long-lasting and soft fabric that’s easy to wash.

3. Use ice to make a ball for a unique cocktail add-in. Not only do ice spheres look much cooler than regular cubes floating in your drink, they also melt slower, so your beverage doesn't get watered-down as quickly. Fill a silicone ice ball mold with water, then place it in the freezer for at least 6 hours, or until the balls have set and hardened.

For extra flair and flavor, add things like fresh herbs or edible flowers into the water in the mold before it freezes.

You can buy ice ball molds from a kitchen store or online retailer.

4. Make a cheese ball if you’re having people over for dinner or a party. When it’s your turn to play host or hostess, whip up a cheese ball as an impressive appetizer. Mix together cream cheese and other soft cheeses, shape it into a ball, then chill it in the refrigerator. Roll it in chopped nuts and other garnishes before serving.

You can substitute mascarpone, neufchatel, or goat cheese for the cream cheese if you’d like.

Pair any type of softer cheese with the creamy base, depending on your taste preferences. As long as it’s not a dry, crumbly cheese like parmesan, it will work.

Serve a cheese ball with finger foods for dipping, like crackers, pretzels, or raw veggies.

Warnings.

Borax is poisonous. Get help immediately if you accidentally ingest it or get it in your eyes.

Never let young children handle Borax without close supervision.

Januari 20, 2020

how to paint wood crafts

How to Paint Wood Crafts.

Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.





Prepping the Wood.



Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.

Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.



Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.

It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.



Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.

Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.

Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4



Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.







Painting and Sealing the Wood.



Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.

You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.



Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.

Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.

Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.



Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.

Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.



Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.

Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.

If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.



Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.



Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.

If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.

If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.







Trying Other Techniques.



Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.



Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.

You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.

You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.



Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.

If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.

If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.



Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.

The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.

Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.



Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.

Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.

You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.





Tips.

You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.

Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!

It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.

You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.

Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.

Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.

Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.

You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.



Warnings.

Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.

Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.



Things You'll.

Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).

140 to 180-grit sandpaper

Primer.

Acrylic paint.

Paintbrushes.

Sealer.

November 10, 2019