If you have an old vinyl record that's unplayable or scratched, upcycle it instead of throwing it away. You can make art, designs, jewelry, and much more by cutting the record. By heating the record or by using a hotknife, you can easily cut your vinyl into whatever shape you need!
Buy a hot knife from an arts and crafts store. Hot knives are heated cutting tools used in crafts and woodworking to precisely cut delicate materials like vinyl or foam. Visit your local crafts store and look for a hot knife with a sharp blade attachment.
Check a home improvement store if an arts and crafts store doesn’t carry hot knives.
Plug the hot knife in and let it heat up. Turn on the knife and set it so the blade is off of your work surface. Wait 2-3 minutes for the blade to heat up or else your knife won’t make smooth cuts. Do not touch the blade of the knife once it’s heated.
Work on a wooden or heat-resistant surface so your knife doesn’t burn through it when you make your cuts.
Keep the knife out of children’s reach.
Many hot knives will have a built-in stand to hold the blade off the table.
Poke the knife through the record and pull it along your design. Slowly stab the tip of the hot knife through the vinyl record. Once you’re through the vinyl, pull the knife at a steady speed along the line you want to cut. Follow all of your lines until you’ve completely cut out your design. Turn off the knife and let it cool down once you finish.
Vinyl contains chlorine gas that could escape when it’s heated. Wear a facemask while cutting the vinyl with a hotknife.
Don’t hold the knife in one spot for too long or else the vinyl will melt and bubble.
Keep the knife stationary and move the record with your other hand if that’s more comfortable.
Punch the vinyl pieces when you finish cutting them. Hold the cutout portion of vinyl against the table with your non-dominant hand. Start gently pulling the rest of the record off your work surface with your dominant hand to separate the pieces.
For more intricate pieces, hold the cutouts as close to the edge as possible so they don’t break off when you try to separate the pieces.
Warnings.
Vinyl releases chlorine gas when heated. Wear a facemask so you don’t inhale any of the fumes.
Countries across the world craft objects, jewelry, furniture and more based on their own customs, culture and history. If you are interested in buying crafts from a country different from your own, then you have a number of options in your town and across the world. You may also choose to buy crafts from third world countries in order to support fair trade. Buying fair trade crafts helps to prevent low wages and unfair working conditions. There are some guidelines you should follow to ensure you are buying from a country that is benefiting from your purchase. You may need to do a little Internet research to ensure you are buying the crafts you prefer. Read on to find out how to buy crafts from third world countries.
Steps.
1. Research fair trade organizations. There are a number of non-profit companies that choose to keep consumers up to date about fair trade options. These include fairtraderesource.org, chfinternational.org, and fair trade organizations of specific countries, such as fta.org.au.
2. Decide if you want to buy crafts from a specific country. For example, you may admire the bamboo furniture from Malaysia or carvings from Africa. Search for a non-profit organization that tells you where to find shops that sell that country's goods.
For example, there is a Bangladesh cooperative that represents 60,000 artisans.
3. Go to eBay or Overstock. Both of these websites have acquired companies that previously sought to promote fair trade crafts. Ebay acquired World of Good, and you can buy handcrafted gifts from third world countries at worldofgood.ebay.com.
Overstock.com provides a fair trade site, called overstock.com/Worldstock-Fair-Trade. You can find anything from jewelry to furniture and more.
4. Search for local stores that specialize in fair trade crafts. Most mid to large-sized cities have a few fair trade stores. You can often find the stories behind the manufacturers of the crafts.
Ask the store how they acquired the crafts. The best way to tell if you are buying from a certified fair trade, third world craft carrier is to ask how the crafts were acquired.
5. Visit world craft museums, such as The Museum of Craft and Folk Art or the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco. These museums fill their gift shops with crafts that are well-crafted and distinctive. Check the museum websites for crafts that can be bought online.
6. Visit summer markets in your town. People who have emigrated from other countries often stock booths filled with their home country's crafts. Peruvian alpaca crafts are common at summer craft markets.
7. Visit a third world country and buy the crafts straight from the source. While this is the most expensive option, it is the best way to ensure you are buying straight from a craftsman. Research craft workshops where you can visit and buy directly after viewing the creation of the crafts.
For example, in St. Kitts there is a batik factory where the batiks are made and then sold. In Peru, you can visit an alpaca farm where yarn is created, died, woven and sold.
Crafters, makers and builders create beautiful items out of raw materials. If you are a crafter that is unable to think of your next project, there are many ways that you can get new ideas. Crafting is one of the most popular subjects of blogs, magazines, classes and more, and its popularity has only risen as the Internet has become an easy way to share methods, techniques and projects. Depending upon how you like to learn, you can choose the most comfortable option. Select your specific area of crafting and search for the newest crafting projects using these avenues. Read more to find out how to get ideas for crafts and projects.
Steps.
1. Join a quilting bee, knitting circle or scrap booking club. Monthly meetings give the opportunities for exchanging ideas, showing off projects and doing group projects.
This is also a great way to meet people with similar interests and form lasting friendships. Crafting often allows you to talk to other people and learn their stories. Many rural communities have quilt guilds, knitting bees and craft circles that stay intact for decades.
2. Take night classes. Most cities have a group that is devoted to community education and gives a catalog of classes at a small fee. These can include anything from jewelry making to scrap booking to wood working.
Search online for "Lifelong learning classes" in your town or "Community education." Most classes happen once or twice a week over a period of months and they teach you new skills and give you many ideas for projects.
3. Get a subscription to a do-it-yourself magazine. Depending upon your preferences, there are many options. Magazine subscriptions can be bought from a website, Amazon, or a magazine prescription service, and it is a good idea to look for the best offer.
Good options for crafters include Martha Stewart Living, Card Maker, This Old House, American Style, Creative Knitting, Do-It-Yourself, Ready Made, American Craft, Crafts and Hobbies, Quilter, Paper Crafts, Creative Woodwork and Crafts, Car Craft. Knit'N Style, Sew News and Creating Keepsakes.
You may want to go to a supermarket and buy a few issues of each of these magazines to decide which one would be the best monthly subscription.
4. Get involved with Blogger, WordPress and other blogging platforms. Once you have a profile you can subscribe to craft blogs and check back whenever you need a fresh idea.
You may hear of craft bloggers referred to as "choggers." Start by checking out popular blogs, such as Bakerella, Cuteable, Dollar Store Crafts, Not Martha and the Pearl Bee. There are thousands of blogs to choose from, and they may also provide an email newsletter.
5. Sign up for email newsletters from magazines like Real Simple, Better Homes and Gardens and Ready Made. They will send you weekly or monthly issues depending upon your preferences, filled with new ideas from their crafters-in-residence.
6. Inquire at local stores if they do classes. In order to drum up business, stores often provide classes for a small fee as long as you buy the materials. For instance, a knitting business may teach their patrons how to use a new set of knitting needles in order to sell more sets.
7. Go online and simply search for patterns or templates. If you are looking for children's crafts, this is the fastest and least expensive option. If you cannot afford patterns for quilting and knitting, there are a number of free online templates that you can find using an Internet search and a printer.
Arts and crafts are always a lot of fun, but have you ever tried making felt animals? It’s a challenge but also pretty rewarding. You can make large or small animals depending on how much time you’re willing to commit to the process. Felt animals are great for gifts or just to keep around the house. The best thing is, they’re pretty easy to make!
Method 1 Preparing to Build Your Felt Animal.
1. Buy some felt and stuffing. Obviously if you want to build a felt animal you’re going to need some felt. Poly-fill stuffing is most common, but you can also buy cotton or even bead if you would prefer to work with that material.Stuffing is important to give your animal some structure. You can buy both these materials at an arts and crafts store.
2. Download your pattern piece. There are many pattern pieces that you can find out on the Internet. Pattern pieces are traced onto the felt and then cut out so that you have all the component pieces of your felt animal.
You can also try creating your own pattern piece. If you want to make a simple animal like a snake your can use four very elongated football shaped pieces. Make sure all your football shaped pattern pieces are the same size. Measure the width of each piece at its midline to figure out how wide your snake is going to be. Take that number and multiply it by four to get the circumference of your snake. Use this information accordingly as you make the body. You'll want the length of the snake to be four times larger than the circumference of the snake. Make sure you have enough felt! That's the idea behind making pattern pieces. You can add eyes and a tongue with extra fabric.
Remember to leave 1/4 of an inch extra room in the pattern piece for sewing purposes.
3. Gather your scissors, stitching, and sewing supplies. If you don’t already have these supplies you can buy them at an arts and crafts store too. You can use a sewing machine if you have one available, but felt is easy to work with. You can just use a needle and thread.
Method 2 Assembling Your Felt Animal.
1. Cut out the pattern pieces from the felt. You’ll want to enlarge your pattern piece to the size you want your animal to be. Make sure that you allow for a 3-millimeter seam allowance. That means you need that much extra space for the animal to fit together once you stitch it.
For example, if you were sewing a mini dog together you would have eight pattern pieces in all. Two body pieces, two head pieces, one belly piece, one back piece, one crown piece, and one tail piece.
A snake would only have the long four football shaped pieces.
2. Start stitching the corresponding pieces together. For example, if you were making the mini dog you would start by sewing the body and head pieces together. In the pattern piece layout there will be letters that correspond with where each part connects. For this little dog, you’ll be sewing the two head pieces on top of the two body pieces.
3. Sew the two body pieces together. Now you’ll connect the two pieces. You won’t be sewing all the way around obviously. Only sew the top half of the body together as the letters indicate. For example, if you were making this little felt dog you would start to see the outline of your animal.
If you made your own pattern pieces for the snake you'll just want to connect each of them to form a cylinder.
4. Add your connecting and additional pieces. For example, if you were making the little felt dog you would need to add the crown piece to the top of his head. Once the body pieces are together you can start to figure out how to fill in the gaps. The little felt dog also requires a brown speckle on his back to fill in the hole on is back.
5. Connect your belly piece. The belly piece is generally one of the last pieces to add. Using the little dog as an example, you would turn the body pieces upside down and add the belly piece to the bottom around the edge.
6. Don’t forget to leave an opening. You absolutely need this opening so that you can stuff your animal. If you forget to leave the opening you’ll have to undo your stitching or start all the way from the beginning. The little dog example has a hole already built in for stuff, but you might need to leave your own hole.
Method 3 Finishing Up.
1. Turn your animal inside out. The little dog pattern piece leaves a hole in the stomach for you to turn your animal inside out, but you might need to leave your own hole if you are making a different felt animal.
2. Stuff your animal. Using the whole you left stuff your animal thoroughly with polyester fiberfill. Make sure the animal is well stuffed but not over stuffed. You want the animal to feel firm without looking like it is going to explode. Use your judgment.
3. Add your embroidery. You can add whatever pieces you want. The little dog calls for small beads for eyes and some black string for the mouth and nose. You can add designs all over the felt if you desire though.
The snake embroidery would consist of little sewing on black circles of fabric or string for eyes, and a little piece of red felt for the tongue. Draw a tongue that appeals to you. Most snakes have forked tongues.
4. Stitch up your final body pieces. This would be the time to add ears, tails, or whatever else your animal might have connected to their body. The little dog will have a tail stitched to the back of his body and two ears connected on top. Remember to turn your body pieces inside out after you sew them to hide the stitching.
Follow the letters on your design piece. If you aren’t sure what pieces are added where, look at which letters correspond to what pieces. For example if you are adding ears to the top of a dog there will be the same letter on the ears as on the top of the body piece. Anywhere with matching letters is supposed to be connected with stitching.
There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!
Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.
1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.
2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.
3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.
4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.
If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.
5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.
6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.
7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.
8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.
9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.
Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.
Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.
10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.
11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.
12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.
13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.
14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.
15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.
Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.
If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.
16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.
17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.
Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.
1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.
Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!
2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.
If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.
3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.
4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.
5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.
6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.
7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.
If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.
8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.
9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.
Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.
If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.
10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.
11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.
Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.
Tips.
You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.
Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).
If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.
Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.
Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.
You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.
If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.
If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.
Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.
Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.
Warnings.
Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.
Things You'll Need
Making a Basic Penguin.
Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.
Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).
Making a Penguin Charm.
Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.
Cat ears are cute accessories that can be easily made. You can wear them with a costume, or as a fun accessory with an outfit. All of the materials needed to make the cat ears can be found at most arts and crafts stores. To make furry cat ears, create the ear bases, put the ears together, and complete the cat ears with the help of an elastic band and hot glue.
Part 1 Creating the Cat Ear Base.
1. Draw the cat ears on paper. This will be the template for the wire. Basically, you just need to draw two wide triangles. You might like to try drawing a few different sizes to see which size looks best on your head. You can cut out the template, or leave the cat ears drawn on the paper. Keep this design as your template for the remaining steps.
Keep in mind that the template will be slightly smaller than the finished ears because of the fur. A template of about three inches is a good size to use.
It doesn’t matter what you use to draw the ears, but pencil is good to use if you will be redrawing the ears multiple times.
2. Create the cat ears with jewelry wire. Following the paper template, bend the wire into the shape of the cat ears. Jewelry wire should be fairly easy to bend, but you can use a pair of long nose pliers to help form the shape. Do this for both ears and you should end up with two triangle shaped ears.
If you don't have wire, you can use paperclips. Just straighten them out and use them as wire. Don't worry if they don't make a perfect triangle. It won't matter when you put them in the fur. Use glue to bind the sides until you put them in.
Use a jewelry wire that is thicker so that it won’t fall out of shape when fur is added to them. 16 or 18 gauge is a good choice because it is thick, but can be bent without too much effort by using pliers.
3. Cut out the fake fur. Following the paper templates again, cut out four triangle shapes in fur. You can use any type of fur that appeals to you, like black, leopard print, or lion-like fur. Fur can be purchased at an arts and crafts store. These should be about a half an inch larger than the template, though, as the fur needs to hold the wire triangles inside once stitched up.
Remember that you can always make it smaller if it's too big, but you can't make it bigger if it's too small.
Part 2 Putting Together the Ears.
1. Sew the fur together. Place two fur pieces together. The fur sides should be facing each other. Sew each side, but leave the bottom edge unsewn. That is the part you are going to insert the wire through to shape the ears. The finished product should be inside out. Repeat this step until you have two ears.
There should be very little seam allowance—only about an ¼ of a inch.
Use a color of thread that best matches the color of fur.
2. Flip the ears so that you can see the fur. The ears should be inside out with the fur parts facing each other once you have finished sewing. Now, turn the ears so that the fur is on the outside. The ear shape should be really obvious now. Inspect the ears to make sure that there aren’t any holes or mistakes.
Turn the ears inside out and sew up any holes that you find.
Use a pair of sewing scissors to cut the thread where any mistakes have been made. Remove the thread from that part and sew it back up with new thread.
3. Place the wire triangle pieces inside each ear. Insert the wire you shaped into triangles earlier into the furry ears. The wire should be able to fit snugly inside of the fur without too much or too little room. Adjust the wire if necessary.
4. Sew up the bottom of the ears. Once you have inserted the wires into the furry ears, sew up the bottom portion that is still open. There shouldn’t be any opening on the ears when you have finished sewing. It doesn't matter if this sewing line is messy, as nobody is going to see it.
Part 3 Completing the Furry Cat Ears.
1. Create the band for the ears. Measure the elastic band or ribbon around your head. The ribbon should cross over the top of your head rather than your forehead. You can find a band or ribbon at most arts and crafts stores. Sew or hot glue the ends together to form a circular headband that fits your head. If you’re using a ribbon, you can also choose to tie the ribbon in the back so that it is adjustable.
If sewing, include a seam allowance in your measurements before cutting the ribbon. Tie the ribbon when testing it on your head to see how much ribbon will be needed in total.
You can also choose to use a headband instead of an elastic band or ribbon.
2. Mark the placement for the ears. First, hold the band and ears together to see where the ears look most natural. Then, check in the mirror to see where the ears look best. Making marks on the headband while it is on your head, use a pen or marker to make marks where the ears will be covering.
It may be easier to have someone help you make the marks while the band is on your head.
3. Attach the ears to the headband. Use hot glue to attach the cat ears onto the headband in the positions that you marked. Use just enough so that the ears stay up, but don’t use so much that the glue gets on other places on the headband or ribbon. Allow at least ten minutes for the glue to dry.
Have someone help you with the hot glue if you aren’t comfortable with using it on your own.
4. Check the finished product. Once the glue has dried, try on the ears. The band should fit your head without sliding. The ears should be standing straight up. Make any adjustments as needed.
Question : What if I don't have any wire, or my parents won't let me use any?
Answer : Depending on the size of your cat ears and the thickness of the fur, you might not even need any wire to make them stand up; the wire is there for support. If the ears still flop over after you have made them, try filling them with some cardboard or craft foam instead.
Question : Is there any alternative to the fur if I don't have a lot of money and can't buy felt or fur and don't have a cat?
Answer : If you own any old stuffed animals that you don't care for anymore, you can use the fluff from those.
Question : Can I use white fur?
Answer : Absolutely.
Question : What do I do if I don't know how to sew?
Answer : You can always ask a friend or family member. If you're feeling ambitious, you can learn how to sew yourself.
Question : Can I use real cat hair?
Answer : Yes, if you want, but it may be best to pick the cat's fur off of the cat brush, not the cat itself.
Question : How can I make fake fur?
Answer : You can make the fur by tearing felt to make fluffy strips. Then, get the same color felt, and glue or sew the fluffy stripes onto it and then cut out the triangle shape for the ears.
Question : How can I make wolf ears the same way?
Answer : Make the shape a bit taller and more pointy. Look at pictures of wolves for reference on how their ears are shaped and then just change the shape.
Question : Could I put pink felt in the center for the finished ear?
Answer : Yes. Just sew or glue it on with a color similar to the color of the felt.
Question : Where can I get fake fur?
Answer : A craft store or someplace that sells fabric. Or you could remove some from a stuffed animal.
Question : Can I make non-fluffy ears?
Answer : Yes, but you may need to expand on your ideas, especially if you are looking to cosplay with them. You could use polymer clay.
Tips.
Fake or fun fur makes a mess when cut. Have something ready to sweep or vacuum it up.
Warnings.
Use care when handling hot glue, as it can easily burn.
Things You'll Need.
Paper for template.
Scissors.
Thin wire for the ears.
Fake fur (20 cm sq. or 7.9 inches.).
Elastic ribbon (5-6 cm or about 1 or 2 inches wide) Make sure you have enough to fit around your head and extra ribbon left for tying.
More often than not, cats can be found lounging in the sun or snoozing the day away. But don’t let them fool you—they love to play. Cats love climbing, chasing, and jumping just as much as any other pet.
But all the climbing and scratching can lead to wear and tear. Instead of sacrificing your beloved couch or armchair, find some enriching toys to give your feline to keep them happy and healthy. That way, everyone can live in peace.
While perusing the pet store shelves, you may notice that most toys, treats, and beds are lacking in style. For some reason, a lot of pet products are behind the curve when it comes to aesthetically pleasing design. With DIY, you can maintain your dream home’s modern decor while giving your pet everything you need.
This DIY scratching post is sure to please your furry friend. Plus, it will look great hanging on your wall! Say goodbye to boring beige cat furniture.
Gather Your Supplies
This DIY requires a few easy-to-find supplies. To make it even more budget-friendly, head to a second-hand store to find a frame. You can easily upcycle it at a low cost.
Here’s what you’ll need:
Small rug
Scissors
Measuring tape
11" x 14" picture frame
Measure and Cut Your Rug
You may not even have to head to the store to find the carpet material for this project. If you remodeled your home, you likely already have some leftover carpet in the garage.
But if not, you can find carpet samples at local carpet retailers. Or you can use an indoor/outdoor decorative rug (like the one we used), a door mat, or even a bath rug. Just be sure your material isn’t unraveled or damaged—that’s the cat’s job.
Before using your scissors to cut your carpet, use a measuring tape to measure the size of the picture frame. Then, use those measurements to cut a rectangular section of your carpet that will fit perfectly inside the picture frame. If the first try isn’t perfect, just keep trimming away.
Your regular pair of scissors will sometimes work for this, but it depends on the material you use. If it’s difficult to cut with scissors, try using sharp shears.
Secure in Frame
Once you have cut your material to match the size of your frame, it’s time to secure them together.
First, remove the sample photo and glass cover from your picture frame. These parts aren’t necessary and you can keep them for future crafts or recycle them if you have no use for them.
If your picture frame has a kickstand on the back, it may be necessary to remove it. This frame will be hung on the wall and a kickstand on the back may make it too bulky, causing it to stick out when it’s hung up.
Secure your piece of rug or carpet inside your picture frame. Be sure to apply the cardboard backing piece that came with the frame onto the back to make sure things stay in place.
Display
The moment we’ve all been waiting for is here! Now that your DIY is finished, you’ve got an adorable piece of wall decor that looks great and satisfies your kitty to no end. Every cat will appreciate this fun toy. And when it wears out, just replace the material inside to keeping things looking new.
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Acknowledgements
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If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.
Steps.
1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.
If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.
Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.
2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.
Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.
Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.
Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.
3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.
Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.
Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,
4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.
Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.
If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.
Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.
5. Keep on sorting.
Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.
Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.
6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.
Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.
For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.
7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.
8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.
9. Finished.
Tips.
Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.
Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.
Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.
Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.
Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.
Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.
Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.
Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.
Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.
Things You'll Need.
Craft supplies.
Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.
This winter, you and your family can make an adorable family of polar bears with just a few pom-poms and some chenille stems. With a little glue and a pair of scissors, you can craft an adult pom-pom polar bear as well as a cute baby bear. You can also make a scarf wearing pom-pom polar bear to use as a decoration.
Method 1 Crafting an Adult Pom-Pom Polar Bear.
1. Make the four legs. Take two white chenille stems and cut them in half. Then coil each half-stem around a half-inch (1.25 cm) diameter marker. You will wrap the stem around the marker about five times to create an individual leg. Repeat this process with the remaining stem halves and then glue them onto a two-inch (5 cm) white pom-pom so that they resemble the four legs and body of a polar bear.
2. Put together the head. Cut a chenille stem in half and twist it around the back of a one-inch (2.5 cm) white pom-pom. Coil the ends of the stem towards the pom-pom to create the bear’s ears.
3. Glue the head to the body. Apply some glue to the back of the head where you attached the ears. This will give you plenty of space to make your bear’s face. Then attach it to the front side of the body.
4. Add the face and tail. Glue a half-inch (1.25 cm) sparkly white pom-pom to the front lower section of the bear’s head. Take a mini black pom-pom and glue it to the front end of the sparkly pom-pom to create a nose. Then glue two mini black pom-poms above the nose to create the bear’s eyes. Finally, attach a half-inch (1.25 cm) white pom-pom to the back of the bear’s body to create a tail.
Method 2 Making a Baby Pom-Pom Polar Bear.
1. Glue together the body. With your hot glue gun, attach a half-inch (1.25 cm) white pom-pom to the bottom side of a one-inch (2.5 cm) white pom-pom. Add three more half-inch pom-poms to the same side to create the baby bear’s legs. Once attached, the legs should support the larger pom-pom and hold it off the ground.
2. Attach the ears and head. With a pair of scissors, cut a three-inch (7.6 cm) piece of chenille stem. Bend the stem into a heart shape, with the ends curling in towards each other. Glue the heart-shaped stem between the front end of the body and a half-inch (1.25 cm) sparkly pom-pom to create the head.
3. Make the face and tail. Glue a mini black pom-pom to the lower front section of the head to make a nose. Attach two mini-black pom-poms slightly above the nose to create the eyes. Cut a half-inch (1.25 cm) piece of white chenille and glue it to the back of the body to serve as a tail.
Method 3 Building a Sitting Pom-Pom Polar Bear with a Scarf.
1. Make the body. Glue a one-inch (2.5 cm) pom-pom to the top of a two-inch (5 cm) pom-pom to create the head and body of your bear. Then take two mini white pom-poms and glue them to the top of the head to make the ears. Be sure to keep a little space between the ears.
You can find pom-poms, wiggly eyes and chenille stems at your local crafts store.
2. Attach the face. Glue a mini black pom-pom to the lower front of the bear’s head. Slightly above the nose, attach two small wiggly eyes. The eyes should be about halfway between the ears and the nose.
3. Add the limbs and a scarf. Glue four mini pom-poms to the front side of the bear’s body to make the legs. Attach a fifth mini pom-pom to the back for a tail. Make sure that the two bottom legs and the tail allow the bear to sit and keep it upright. Finally, wrap a three-inch (7.6 cm) piece of red or silver chenille stem around the bear’s neck to serve as a scarf.
When you attach the scarf, do not get it so snug around the bear’s neck that it pops the head off.
Things You’ll Need.
Assorted sizes of white, black, and sparkly white pom-poms, A half-inch (1.25 cm) diameter marker
Silver and white chenille stems, Wiggly eyes, A hot glue gun or craft glue, Scissors.
Warning.
Because the hot glue may burn them, it is important that you monitor your children if they are making the pom-pom bears.
Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.
Prepping the Wood.
Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.
Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.
Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.
It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.
Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.
Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.
Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4
Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.
Painting and Sealing the Wood.
Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.
You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.
Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.
Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.
Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.
Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.
Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.
Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.
Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.
If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.
Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.
Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.
If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.
If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.
Trying Other Techniques.
Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.
Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.
You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.
You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.
Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.
If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.
If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.
Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.
The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.
Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.
Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.
Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.
You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.
Tips.
You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.
Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!
It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.
You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.
Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.
Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.
Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.
You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.
Warnings.
Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.
Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.
Things You'll.
Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).
Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!
Steps.
1. Get one white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper. Since origami can be a bit difficult (and not very exciting) for younger children, the good old method of cutting and gluing construction paper might be more up their alley. This method of making a paper penguin calls for one white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper.
2. Trace an oval shape onto the black construction paper. To form the body of the penguin, have the child draw an oblong oval on the black construction paper with either a white crayon or a piece of chalk so that they can see the outline. One fun and silly way to help the child make the shape is to have him or her place their shoe on the sheet and trace the outline of it.
3. Cut out the black oval. Using a pair of scissors (safety scissors for younger children), have the child cut out the black oval from the construction paper. When it comes to the eyes later, you can have the child either draw them on the white paper or cut pupils out of the black paper. For the latter, you can have the child cut those out now as well.
4. Trace a smaller oval onto the white construction paper. You can now have the child trace the white portion of the belly on the white construction paper. You can find something of the relative oblong shape to let the child trace it again or simply allow them to do it freehand.
5. Glue the belly to the rest of the body. Once the child is done tracing the white oval, allow them to cut the shape out of the construction paper. Then use a glue stick to glue the tummy portion to the rest of the body. Glue it closer to the bottom of the body portion than the middle since the head should be above it.
6. Cut a small triangle out of the orange construction paper. To make the beak for the penguin, have the child cut a small triangle out of the orange construction paper. The beak doesn't have to be an exact triangle, so you can have the child trace it first or simply cut one out.
For very small children, the size of the beak might be too difficult for them to cut out, so you may have to help with this step.
7. Glue the beak to the penguin's face. You have two different options to glue the beak to the penguin's face. You can either glue the triangle flat with one of the points facing downward, or you can actually make a little fold on one of the flat sides and glue it at the tab, which will make the beak stick out from the penguin's face.
8. Make the penguin's eyes. As mentioned earlier, you can have the child draw eyes on the white construction paper, cut them out and glue those to the penguin, or you can also have the child cut the whites of the eyes from the white construction paper, then use the black construction paper to cut out the pupils.
A third option if the child is too young to cut out such small circles is to have some googly eyes on hand from a craft store or the craft section of a big-box store. Young kids may have an easier time using a glue stick to attach google eyes instead.
9. Let the child customize it. This makes an easy basic shape for the penguin, and then the child can have fun customizing it. If the child cuts out two really flattened ovals from the black paper, he or she can glue them to the side of the body as wings. If the child wants to make feet for the penguin, you can have them trace a leaf or something else with the slight contours to give them the webbed shape.
Things You'll Need.
Scissors.
One white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper.
If you’re a glitter lover, chances are you’ve run across crafts and body glitters that are susceptible to flaking off and leaving a glitzy, sparkly trail behind you. Luckily, there are a few different ways you can craft with and wear glitter so that it doesn’t fall off so easily. Try using Mod Podge to seal in the glitter in your crafting projects, or mix cosmetic-grade glitter with different beauty products to create your own body glitter.
Using Mod Podge for Crafts.
Add a layer of satin or gloss Mod Podge to your craft. Use a foam brush or paintbrush, depending on your craft, and lightly brush a thorough layer of Mod Podge onto the surface area of whatever you are looking to cover in glitter. Make sure the entire area is coated and that there are no bare spots.
You can even make your own Mod Podge at home to save money!
If you don’t have Mod Podge, you could also use regular white school glue, though school glue often chips off easily over time.
Fun ideas of things you can add glitter to: plates, mugs, containers, candles, fabric flowers, glasses frames, cell phone covers, wood, and notebooks or folders.
Dust, pour, or poof the glitter over the Mod Podged area. Depending on the kind of glitter you are using, you might apply it in a slightly different way. The main thing to remember is that you want to completely coat the Mod Podge in glitter and not leave any empty spaces.
You can also use a foam brush to spread on your glitter if you want a little more control over how much you use.
If you are looking for a high-glitter outcome, you can apply a second layer of Mod Podge and glitter immediately after the first one without waiting for it to dry first (it will take a little longer to dry after the second coat, then, but it will be highly glitterized).
Allow the glitter and Mod Podge to dry for 1-2 hours. Leave your newly glittered item alone for several hours or until it is dry to the touch. Try to leave it in a position so that the Mod Podge and glitter isn’t touching any other surface.
If you are adding glitter to multiple items, this is a great time to continue working on those projects while you’re waiting for others to dry.
Apply a top layer of Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. Once the first layer is dry to the touch, use your sponge or paint brush to add another thin layer of Mod Podge to your item. Use long, even strokes to reduce the appearance of brush lines. Make sure you cover the entire item and don’t leave any raw glitter poking through.
You could also use watered down school glue to create an opaque sealant for your crafting project.
The top layer of Mod Podge acts as a sealant and will prevent the glitter from flaking away.
Let your finished craft dry for 3-4 hours before you use it. Depending on how thickly you applied the Mod Podge, you may need to wait anywhere from 3-12 hours before you can safely use the item without potentially messing up the application. Always check the directions on the bottle for tips and guidelines.
If you have a dehumidifier, you can set your craft in front of it for a speedier drying time.
Never place your item directly in front of a heat source, like an electric heater or a hair dryer, as this may cause the Mod Podge to melt or change consistency so it doesn’t dry correctly.
Coat flaking items with sparkle Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. If you have an item that has glitter that is flaking off, you can apply pre-glitterized Mod Podge to add back some sparkle and lock in the remaining glitter. Simply use a sponge or paint brush to apply a thin, even coat of the sealant to the item, then let it fully dry before you use it again.
Make sure to work on a protected surface, like a counter covered in newspaper or paper towels.
Mix Mod Podge with your glitter of choice for a stronger glitter look. Pour some Mod Podge into a disposable cup or bowl and mix in as much glitter as you want to make your own glitter sealant. You can make the glitter as weak or as strong as you prefer. Then follow the instructions to apply the Mod Podge and let it dry.
You can also apply your glitter Mod Podge, another layer of glitter, and then top it off with the glitter Mod Podge again for even more glitter fun.
Wearing Body Glitter.
Combine body oil and loose glitter for an all-body glitter-wearing option. Instead of sprinkling loose body glitter on your arms and hoping it doesn’t fall off, combine body oil and loose glitter in a travel-sized shampoo container. Shake the container up really well, and then apply it to your arms, legs, chest, or face whenever you need an extra glitter boost.
While you could purchase body oils or lotions that already have glitter in them, it can be less expensive and more fun to do it yourself.
Put petroleum jelly on your skin and add body glitter for a sparkly look. Use a clean makeup or paint brush and apply an even layer of the petroleum jelly to the area you want to cover in glitter (like your collar bones, shoulders, or even your hairline). Then use another clean brush or your hand to gently press loose body glitter onto the jelly.
Visit a cosmetics store to buy body-specific glitter, which is usually a slightly different consistency than the glitter used for crafting.
If you don’t have petroleum jelly, you could also use hair gel as the sticky base for your body glitter.
Use this method in areas that aren’t going to come into frequent contact with other surfaces. For example, it probably wouldn’t work well on your legs if you are going to be sitting and standing and walking around often.
Mix hairspray and glitter to create glitter brow and hair gel. Spray hairspray into a dish, like a small cup or bowl (or even a disposable Dixie Cup), and add loose glitter. Mix it around with a toothpick or a spoolie brush, and then apply it carefully to your eyebrows or to select strands of your hair.
Do not use the glitter and hairspray mix on your eyelashes as it could irritate or infect them.
Wear vibrant lipstick and then add loose glitter for a shimmery lip look. Steer clear of sticky or glossy lipsticks and stick with a cream base to keep the glitter in place better. Put on a layer or two or lipstick, then use your fingers to gently press loose glitter into your lips.
With this trend, you’ll want to avoid pressing your lips together or eating or drinking anything too messy.
Create a glitter stamp from a makeup sponge and loose glitter. Cut a makeup sponge into a fun shape (like a heart or a star) and dip one side of it carefully into loose glitter. Spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly or hair gel on your body where you want the stamp, and then press the makeup sponge onto the jelly to transfer the glitter.
Your glitter stamp should stay on all day as long as it doesn’t brush up roughly against anything else.
Keeping Glitter on Clothes.
Use hairspray for a quick fix on your glitter clothing. Take your item of clothing outdoors or to a well ventilated area, and lay it down completely flat. Then spray a light coat of hairspray overtop of the glitter. Use unscented hairspray if you can. Allow the hairspray to dry completely before you wear the clothing item.
Hairspray is a great, quick fix, but overtime it doesn’t hold up, though you can reapply hairspray when you need to. Long-term, you just have to care for and store glittery clothes very carefully.
Affix glitter to your clothes with fabric glue. Lay out your item of clothing in a clean workspace, and apply the fabric glue in whatever patten you want. Then, carefully shake loose glitter overtop of the glue, coating it so that none of the glue is visible. Let the glue and glitter dry for several hours before picking up the item and shaking off the excess glitter.
You could even make a stamp out of a sponge and decorate your shirt that way (like stars all over a t-shirt), and then shake the glitter on top of the design.
Wash glittery clothes sparingly and let them air-dry. When you go to clean your clothes that have glitter on them, try to wash then only when they really need it. Use cold water and the delicate cycle in the washing machine, and don’t put them into the dryer. Instead, hang them up to air-dry.
You could even take your glittery clothes to a dry cleaner instead of washing them yourself.
When crafting with glitter, try working over a cooking tray. You’ll catch all the excess glitter that falls off and can easily return it to its container.
When making your own body glitter, try to use cosmetic grade glitter rather than crafting glitter.
Store your glittery clothes in plastic bags to protect them from rubbing up against other items in your closet (and to protect your other clothes from getting glitter all over them).
Adding a beautiful piece of art to a room is the last layer of decoration that every home needs. But a framed piece can be pricey. Instead of shelling out money for a print or painting, why not frame a gorgeous piece of fabric instead? Not only will fabric add color and pattern to a room, but it also lends personality. Plus, varying the textures in a gallery wall will add interest and depth to the space.
You can use a favorite piece of fabric that has been passed down in your family or simply a pattern that caught your eye at the fabric store. Either way, it's a great way to display a beautiful textile. Hang one of these prints on your wall as soon as possible! This is an easy project that takes less than an hour to complete.
Gather Your Materials
Small canvas
Fabric
Scissors
Hot glue
Iron
Cloth tape (optional)
Choose Your Fabric
Once you've selected your fabric, make sure it's large enough to fit around your canvas. While you can opt to use a more traditional picture frame, the canvas is a really easy way to complete this project while still showing off the texture of the fabric.
Cut the fabric to the size of the canvas, leaving at least 1 inch of extra fabric around all of the edges.
Note: If the fabric is vintage or heirloom, you can leave it as is. Don't cut or glue and simply pin it to the canvas instead.
Smooth the Fabric
If needed, gently iron the fabric to remove any deep creases. Then, stretch the fabric over the canvas and secure it using dabs of hot glue on the back frame of the canvas. You want to pull the fabric taut, but not so much so that it's going to release and look saggy when you're done gluing.
Attach the Fabric
If the fabric is delicate and you don't want to cut and glue it, put pins at each end and each side to secure it. Just be sure to pull the fabric taut as you go, so you don't end up with any weird wrinkles. If you aren't emotionally attached to the fabric, follow these steps to finish off the back of the frame.
There will be excess fabric at the top and bottom of the canvas, so to handle it in a way that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, you're going to want to fold and glue the fabric to the canvas in a similar way that you'd finish wrapping a present. It will look finished and pretty once you're done.
Find a Place for It
Place the canvas art wherever you'd like. Add it to the top of your bookshelf or hang it on the wall. If you easily grow tired of decor, the beauty of this project—if the fabric isn't an heirloom or vintage piece—is that you can simply rip it off the canvas and start over!
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Acknowledgements
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A Jack in the Box is a fun toy that's been around for hundreds of years. While it may seem complex, a Jack in the Box actually works with very simple mechanics. Making your own can be a fun arts and crafts activity. With some cardboard, glue, magnets, a spring, and a few other parts, you can make your very own Jack in the Box.
Part 1 Constructing the Box.
Find a sturdy piece of cardboard. You'll need a thick and sturdy piece of cardboard for the box to support itself. The kind from a large packing box should work well.
You'll be cutting out 6 squares that are each 6" x 6" (15 cm x 15 cm), so your piece of cardboard will need to be at least 18" x 12" (45 cm x 30). If you can't find a piece that big, then several pieces will work fine too.
Draw six 6" X 6" (15 cm x 15 cm) boxes on the piece of cardboard. These six squares will form the walls, floor, and lid of your Jack in the Box. Use a ruler to measure and make sure your lines are straight.
Make sure you use a dark pen or marker. Otherwise, you may not be able to see your lines when you cut.
Cut out each box. Use a pair of sharp scissors or a box cutter. Carefully cut along the lines you drew so the cardboard squares are the right size. If you're using a box cutter, make sure the cardboard is placed on a solid surface.
Wear gloves during this step to prevent paper cuts or any injuries for the scissors or box cutter.
Glue 4 of the squares together, making a cube with no top or bottom. Hot glue is the best choice for this step. White glue won't be strong enough to keep the box together. This forms the outside structure of the box.
Glue the edges of the cardboard together to form the cube. If the glue doesn't seem to be making a strong seal, you can use strips of tape to secure the cube while the glue hardens.
Glue another square to the bottom of the cube. Line up the square perfectly with the rest of the cube or your box will be uneven. This will form the floor of the box.
Lay the square down flat and put glue around the edge. Then slowly lower the box onto the square, making sure the glue makes contact with all edges of the box.
Make a hinge with the final square. Don't glue the final square to the box, or your Jack in the Box won't open. Instead, rest the square on top of the box, making sure to line up all the sides. Then, use a strip of tape to fasten one side of the square to the box. This will form a simple hinge that allows your box to open.
Clear tape is the best choice here. Colored tape might throw off your designs when you decorate your box later on.
Part 2 Sealing the Box.
Find 2 small magnets. There are lots of ways you could make the seal for your box, but a simple method uses magnets. Start by finding 2 magnets. These should be square or circle and small, not more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) long.
Craft or hardware stores usually have small magnets that are meant to hold boxes or cabinets closed. Looking for these should give you a good start.
Remember to find out which sides of the magnets attract each other. Those are the two sides you'll line up when making your seal.
Glue one magnet to the bottom of the box's lid. This should be on the opposite side where you placed the tape. On the edge of the lid and in the center, glue the first magnet.
Glue another magnet directly under the first magnet. The next magnet should be placed on the inside wall of the box so the two magnets touch each other when the lid is closed. In this position, they will attract each other and keep the box sealed.
To find the right position for the second magnet, start by closing the box slowly. This way you'll be able to see where the magnet will rest when the box is sealed. The best place for the second magnet is right under that point, so the two magnets touch when the lid is closed.
Test out your seal. See if your seal is holding after you glue both magnets. Pull up slightly to see how tight the seal is. Flip the box upside down and see if it holds.
Part 3 Making the Spring Puppet.
Glue a compression spring to the bottom of the box. Draw a circle in the middle of the box's floor to see where you'll place the spring. Then put glue on the bottom of the spring and place it over the circle you drew. Hold the spring down for a few seconds to make sure the glue seals.
Compression springs come in lots of sizes. For this project, you'll want one that's slightly taller than the box, or about 7 inches (18 cm). Your local craft store should have plenty of options.
Test the seal by making sure the box stays closed when the spring is in place. If the box doesn't stay closed, your spring is too big or your seal is too loose.
Put a sock puppet on the spring. Your Jack in the Box needs a character to pop out! A sock puppet is perfect because it can fit snugly over the spring.
You could also draw and cut out a simple face from a piece of paper and glue it to the top of the spring for a simpler design.
Test your box. With all the pieces in place, it's time to make sure your box is working! Put it on a table and lift up the lid. Your puppet should pop out of the box when you do this.
Decorate your box. Now that your box is complete, you can decorate it however you want! Use markers to draw on its sides, glue sparkly paper over it, cover it with stickers--use your imagination!
Tips.
Remember to let all glue dry before you move on. Wait a few minutes after you glue pieces together to make sure the glue holds or your box could warp as you work.
Monsters and Halloween go hand in hand. They don’t always have to be scary though, like my monster bookmarks, which are pretty darn cute! All these plastic spoon monsters want to do is go trick or treating! So what do you say? Want to make some cute monsters of your very own?
MAKE FUN PLASTIC SPOON MONSTERS.
This easy craft for kids has Halloween written all over it… seriously. Did you see the trick or treat bags?? The kids can make these plastic spoon monsters and display them in a diorama, just poke the handles into some foam!
They can also double as puppets so kids can put on a Halloween puppet show. Either way, it’s a fun afternoon of make-believe!
You can decorate their faces however you like, though I am partial to the cyclops look. One eye, one eyebrow, and usually one fang!
I also think monsters with multiple eyes are super cute! I like making their eyes go in different directions.
Seriously, if one of these cute little guys walked up to you, you would totally take them trick or treating, right??
Ok, enough chatter. Let’s get on with it. Gather your supplies and get ready to make these cute plastic spoon monsters!
I made five plastic spoon monsters, but the instructions below are for just one. I chose five different colors and matched them all up. You can mix and match and do whatever you want! For paint, I used Americana in Bright Orange, Sour Apple, Bright Yellow, Lavender, and Red Alert.
SUPPLIES FOR ONE PLASTIC SPOON MONSTER.
Felt in color of your choice, cut into a 4″ x 3″ rectangle.
Pipe cleaner (same color as felt).
Plastic spoon.
Acrylic craft paint in black, white and color to match your felt.
Paintbrush.
Scissors.
Round sponge applicators (spouncers).
Hot glue gun.
For trick or treat bag.
1/3 gold pipe cleaner.
Paper bag cut into 2″ x 1.5″ rectangle.
Fine point black marker.
Paint the back of the spoon and halfway down the handle. Allow to dry and repeat for a second coat.
Use spouncers dipped in white and black paint to add eyes. Allow to dry completely.
I like the double-ended spouncers. There are two different sizes in one. Check your local craft store to see what they have.
Use the handle end of a paintbrush to add circles that are smaller than your spouncers.
Meanwhile, while the paint is drying, fold the felt rectangle in half lengthwise and cut a small slit 1/2-inch from the top.
Unfold felt and trim off excess above the slit. Be careful not to cut it too close.
Cut around the edges of the felt to create fun shapes for the monster costumes.
When the paint is completely dry, insert the handle of the spoon into the slit of the felt so that the handle ends up behind the felt. Use a dab of hot glue to secure the felt to the “neck” of the spoon monster.
For the next step, you will need to lift the felt and move it out of your way which is why the painted faces should be completely dry before you do this!
For the arms, fold a pipe cleaner in half and twist around the middle of the spoon handle. Stretch pipe cleaner arms to the left/right. Bring the felt back down and secure it to the spoon handle with hot glue.
Write “TRICK OR TREAT!” on the paper bag rectangle. Bend the gold piece of pipe cleaner in half and curve the bend to look like a bag handle. Hot glue the handle to the back of the treat bag.
Twist the end of one of the arms around the treat bag handle. Position the arms however you like!
I hope you had fun making these cute little monsters from plastic spoons! I have some other crafts you will probably enjoy like these plastic spoon bugs and these plastic spoon snowmen! And I told you I love to make monsters.
Colored salt is used for art and craft, for decoration, for teaching skills with writing or drawing, and for making rangoli for Diwali. It's easy to make, and depending on the exact items in your craft or kitchen cupboard, you might even be able to make it without buying a thing.
Coloring Salt with Paint.
Fill a container with salt. A jug or pitcher, a deep bowl, a plastic food container, etc. will all suffice.
Squeeze a little tempera paint into the salt.
Mix with a spoon or other item. Stir until the paint is evenly distributed through the salt.
Let stand overnight to dry.
Make as many more colors as you need for your project. That way, they'll all be ready at the same time.
Test before using. Check that the salt has dried before using in your craft, rangoli, teaching, etc. projects.
Coloring Salt with Liquid Food Coloring.
Use liquid food coloring for this method. Choose a color or colors that you wish to work with.
Tip the salt into a resealable bag.
Add the liquid food coloring to the salt. It's recommended that you do this gradually, a drop at a time, so that you can intensify the color as needed and stop when you're happy with it. The more drops added, the more intense the color.
Carefully press the air from the resealable bag without losing the salt. Seal. Wait for around a minute before proceeding, to give the salt time to settle.
Image titled Make Colored Salt Step 10
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Press down on the bag again and again. This will move the coloring around all of the salt. Knead until you can see that the color has permeated all of the salt in the plastic bag.
Done. The salt is now ready for use. If you see any salt that is damp, let it dry before use, by allowing air into the bag and waiting a few hours more.
If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.
Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.
Coloring Salt with Gel Food Coloring.
For this method, use gel-based food coloring. You should find it dries instantly and won't leave any liquid, which may be the case with liquid food coloring.
Tip the salt into a resealable bag.
Add the gel food coloring. Transfer the gel using an implement such as a wooden or metallic skewer tip, the end of a butter knife or a toothpick. Only use a small amount at a time, adding a little more if you're not yet satisfied with the color. Gel coloring is fairly vibrant with just a little amount, so you don't want to overdo it.
Carefully press down on the bag to remove excess air. Seal tightly.
Shake or knead the color throughout the bag. Ensure that all of the salt is evenly colored.
Done. Given that this is gel, the colored salt should be ready to use immediately.
If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.
Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.
Coloring Salt with Chalk.
Choose a chalk color that you wish to use. Chalks come in a range of pastel and bright colors, depending on where you buy them from. Check art, craft or upmarket toy stores for a wider variety than you might find in traditional stationery or dollar stores.
Cover the workspace with a large sheet of paper.
Pour the salt onto the paper. The amount of salt depends on the amount you need.
Place the piece of chalk on its side, on the salt. Roll the chalk back and forth over the salt on the paper. As you do this, the color from the chalk will color the salt. Keep rolling until you're happy with the color.
Using the paper as a funnel, pour the chalk-colored salt into a resealable bag or a storage container.
Done. The colored salt is now ready to use, or you can store it until needed.
Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.
Tips.
A rolling pin can be used to distribute the color for the resealable bag color-distributing methods; ensure that there is no air in the bag and roll it up and down until the salt is evenly colored.
Keep colored salt in an airtight container when not in use. Make sure that the lid is on firmly, to prevent spilling it.
For a bath treat, add some essential oil drops as well as the colorant.
If making a lot of colored salt in varied colors, use clean food containers to free up the usual kitchen containers for your cooking and eating.
Warnings.
While these crafts are non-toxic, they are very messy. As such, they are best either supervised carefully or done by older children and adults.
Things You'll Need.
Salt (sea salt, rock salt, table salt, Epsom salts, etc. are all fine to use).
Container for holding salt or a resealable bag.
Colorant.
Stirring implement (such as a spoon, a skewer, a chopstick, etc.).
Looking for a fun way to celebrate this holiday season? Whether you’re crafting homemade decorations for Thanksgiving dinner or just want to get into the spirit of autumn, making a turkey from ordinary paper bags is a quick, simple and creative activity that is sure to please children and adults alike. This project only requires a few simple materials and will add a bit of thrifty Fall flair wherever it’s displayed.
Part 1 Making the Turkey.
1. Gather your materials. For this project, you’ll need only need a handful of basic items—3 brown paper bags (1 large paper grocery bag and 2 smaller standard paper bags), 1 sheet of white 8 ½” x 11” typing paper, a few sheets of newspaper, a pair of scissors and a hot glue gun or some craft glue. Any additional materials will be up to you, depending on how elaborate you want the presentation of your finished turkey to be.
Your turkey will be made of just three easy pieces: one big bag for the body, and the two smaller bags to serve as the “drumsticks.”
Making a paper bag turkey only takes a few minutes from start to finish, leaving you with plenty of time in your day to finish playing, decorating or tackling other crafting projects.
2. Form the body of the turkey. Take the large paper bag and fill it ¾ full with crumpled newspaper. This will help fill out the body, giving it a plump appearance and preventing it from collapsing once it's ready to be displayed. After the bag has been stuffed, fold the corners down diagonally and glue them in place. Tuck the folded tab down one more time and glue it to the underside of the turkey.
Shape the body of the turkey by hand until it’s smooth and round. Be sure to work out any square edges of creases from the original bag.
Be careful not to tear the bag while sealing or shaping it.
3. Shape the drumsticks. Grab the two smaller paper bags—you’ll be using these to craft the “drumsticks” of the turkey. Make one hand into a fist and stick it into each bag, molding the opening of the bag around your wrist. This will give the bag its recognizable drumstick shape. Remove your hand from the bag and fill the rounded end with newspaper. Twist the opening of each bag shut and secure it with a dab of glue.
Like the body of the turkey, the drumsticks will need to be filled in order to hold their shape.
4. Cut the booties for the drumsticks. Your drumsticks aren’t complete until they’re dressed with a pair of frilly white booties, like a traditional Thanksgiving turkey. Cut your sheet of typing paper in half lengthwise, then fold each piece in half, again lengthwise. Use your scissors to make a series of cuts in the open edge of the paper to create a neat fringe.
Try to make your cuts about ¼ inch apart.
Your cuts only need to be about half the width of the paper.
5. Put it all together. Wrap a paper bootie around the end of each drumstick and secure them with glue. Then, place the drumsticks on either side of the sealed end of the turkey and glue them down. That’s it! The result is a quirky, lifelike baked bird that you might just mistake for the real thing.
Attach the drumsticks to the tapered sides of the body where you folded down the edges of the big bag. This will give the turkey a more realistic look.
The different parts of the turkey will have a little weight to them once they’ve been filled. Use enough glue to make sure that everything holds.
Part 2 Finding Creative Ways to Present Your Turkey.
1. Put it on a platter. Arrange your paper bag turkey on a serving platter over a bed of parsley or tissue paper garnish. Surround the turkey with fallen leaves for a splash of vibrant color. With the right details, you’ll have a mouthwatering craft turkey worthy of a fantasy feast to show off to your friends and family.
If you don't have a real serving platter lying around, make your own out of cardboard, construction paper, and colored markers.
Make sure to let everyone, especially small children, know that your paper turkey is not for eating.
2. Add colorful designs. Before you fill the paper bags, decorate the outsides for a more artistic, funky finish. Use crayons, markers, washable paint, stickers or glitter and customize your turkey with polka dots, swirls or dazzling patterns using your favorite colors. Grab a friend, sibling, parent or child to decorate your turkey with, then compare and display them together when you’re done.
If you’re using paint or a felt-tip marker that might saturate the paper bags, allow them to dry before stuffing or shaping them.
When making paper turkeys with your kids or students, have them write down one thing they’re thankful for somewhere on the big bag.
3. Fill it with “stuffing.” For an unexpected tasty twist, ditch the newspaper and fill your turkey with popcorn, candy or other easy-to-eat finger foods instead. You can then have someone “carve” the turkey by cutting a flap in the top and have something to snack on until the main course is served. This imaginative serving style is sure to be a hit at holiday parties!
Popcorn makes a simple stuffing because it’s light and takes up a lot of space, but you could use just about any snack food, like chips, pretzels or chocolates, to fill your turkey.
Try filling the drumsticks separately with caramel corn to make “dark meat.”[6]
4. Put your paper bag turkey on display. In addition to being a fun and easy project to do with your friends or loved ones, your paper turkey will make a unique arrangement for the coffee table, arts and crafts desk or kitchen counter. It will look especially good surrounded by other festive Fall decorations. Best of all, you can store the playful papercraft away or simply make a new one the next time the holiday season rolls around.
A paper bag turkey will fit nicely with other homemade holiday decorations, such as hand turkey cutouts, popsicle stick snowflakes, and construction paper pumpkins.
Tips.
This will make a great activity for parents and teachers to do alongside their children or students.
If the paper bags you’re using have any logos, writings or markings on them, carefully turn them inside out before you begin crafting.
Line the inside of your turkey with wax or parchment paper to prevent splotchy grease stains if you plan on filling it with buttered popcorn.
Make sure you have enough of whatever food item you choose to fill the large bag.
Hot glue is preferable to other adhesives because it dries quickly and creates a strong, lasting hold.
Warnings.
Take caution when working with the hot glue and scissors. Kids should ask an adult for help with the cutting and gluing portions of the project.
Staples should be avoided, as there's no way to use them to secure the different parts of the turkey without mashing them.
Things You'll Need.
3 brown paper bags (1 large and 2 small), 1 sheet white typing paper, A few sheets of crumpled newspaper.
Scissors, Hot glue or craft glue, Popcorn or other small snack foods (optional), Various decorating supplies (optional).
