Glue sticks can be melted down for a number of applications. Whether used in crafts, manufacturing, packaging, fashion, or in any other creative function, glue sticks are a cheap and easy to come by product. All-purpose or school glue sticks and hot glue gun sticks can both be melted in the microwave, and hot glue gun sticks can, of course, be melted in a glue gun. If handled carefully and done properly, the processes are extremely quick and can help you adhere all kinds of surfaces to one another.
Microwaving Glue Sticks
Remove the glue sticks from their original packaging. All-purpose or school glue sticks can be unscrewed and pulled or broken off from their plastic casings. Hot glue gun sticks simply need to be removed from any packaging or wrappers.
Make sure there are no plastics or other wrappings in or on the glue you want to melt. Most wrappings and plastics are not intended to be melted and can be unsafe to do so.
If your glue stick has a plastic piece through the center, carefully cut the glue away from the plastic using a knife.
Put the stick(s) into a microwave-safe dish. Since the glue will be very messy and hard to clean, use a single-use paper bowl. If you are dedicating the dish to the craft of melting glue sticks, a ceramic or glass mug or bowl will also work.
Be sure the glue sticks are fully inside of the dish. If they overhang the mug or bowl, they will melt outside of the dish.
Start with smaller quantities to test how long your particular glue takes to melt.
Microwave the glue on full power in 20-second intervals. Depending on your microwave and amount of glue, you should at least be able to partially melt the sticks. If there are still solids, microwave the glue for an additional 20 seconds after stirring it with a craft stick or plastic spoon.
Do not leave the microwave unattended. If something goes wrong, you should be there to stop the microwave.
Do not heat the sticks for extended periods of time. It may look like nothing is wrong while it heats, but overheating the glue can create fumes that are unsafe.
Remove the glue from the microwave carefully. You should use it immediately, but be careful as the glue will be quite hot. Depending on how long it was heated, the dish can be hot as well.
Use the glue fresh out of the microwave so it will be easy to apply.
If the glue re-hardens, simply microwave it for another 20 seconds.
Melting Glue Sticks with a Glue Gun
Obtain a glue gun at least as big as the glue sticks. Only use hot glue sticks intended for glue guns—not all-purpose or school glue sticks. If the sticks won’t fit into the glue gun, you cannot melt them. If the sticks are too small, you will just have to use your hand to feed them through.
Make sure your glue sticks are meant for a glue gun. You should not use other types of glue sticks because they can damage your glue gun.
Plug in the glue gun over cardboard or newspaper. As the tip of the gun heats, the gun may start to drip as it melts. By putting a piece of cardboard or newspaper underneath, you can protect your working surface.
Always follow the instructions specific to your glue gun regarding electricity and timing.
Do not leave a glue gun unattended. They can tip over or otherwise cause severe burns if you are not careful.
Squeeze the trigger of the glue gun to feed the sticks. If the sticks match the size of the glue gun, the trigger will allow the stick to press and feed through the heated tip. The glue will then melt and drip out wherever you point the gun.
Do not touch the metal tip of the gun or the melting glue. They will both be extremely hot.
If the glue is not feeding through, it may either be too large of a stick or may still be heating up.
If your glue stick is smaller than the glue gun, you will have to push from the back end of the stick to feed it through.
Use gloves to protect your hands from the heated materials.
Insert another stick once the first no longer feeds through. If the gun or your fingers can no longer safely feed the first stick through the rear of the glue gun, use another glue stick to press it through. It will then be caught by the plastic feeding mechanism and continue melting.
Warnings.
Do not touch melted glue. It will be extremely hot and adhere to your skin, making the burn worse.
Do not inhale melted glue fumes. Some glues are non-toxic, but not all of them are. Regardless, the fumes can be dangerous, and you may need to wear a respirator while working.
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Glue a sheet of green construction paper to a piece of thin cardboard. This will make your dinosaur nice and sturdy. If you don’t have any green construction paper, paint the cardboard with green acrylics or poster paint. Let the glue or paint dry before moving on.
The thin cardboard from cereal and snack boxes works great for this!
If you don’t have thin cardboard or construction paper, try green cardstock instead. You can also use poster paper, but you’ll need to paint it.
2. Draw and cut the body, head, tail, and leg shapes from the paper. Look up coloring book or cartoon pictures of long-necked dinosaurs, then break it down into separate body parts. Draw these separately with a pen or pencil, then cut them out. Here are the basic shapes you’ll need.
A long stem with an oval-shaped head, like a brontosaurus or apatosaurus.
A long, tapering tail, like a skinny triangle.
2 rectangular legs.
A mound- or lump- shaped body, like a semicircle but with rounded bottom corners.
3. Make spikes for the dino's back using paper and cardboard if desired. Glue the paper to the cardboard first (or paint the cardboard). Let the paint or glue dry, then draw 4 to 5 triangular spikes. Cut them out, then set them aside.
Use a different color of paint or paper for this. Orange is a great choice, but a lighter or darker shade of green will also work.
You can also make smaller rectangles for nails.
4. Use a pen to poke a hole in the ends of each limb. Make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) away from the center of each edge. A pen or pencil will work just fine for a cardstock dino, but if you used thin cardboard, use a nail to make the holes instead.
You’ll need holes in the following areas: base of the neck, base of the tail, and the top of each leg.
Don’t use a hole punch. The hole will be too big and the brad will fall through.
If you're a child, ask an adult to help you with this step, especially if you're using a nail.
5. Poke 4 holes in the body so that you can secure the limbs. Make 2 holes along the wider, flatter, bottom edge of the body. Poke another set of holes on the sides of the body for the tail and legs. As with the limbs, make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) from the edges.
Don’t poke the neck and tail holes too close to the top; make them closer to the bottom so that your dinosaur has a humped back.
Don’t place the legs too close together. Keep them closer to the bottom corners of the body.
6. Use brads to secure the limbs behind the dinosaur's body. Stick a brad through the front of the neck hole on the body. Slide the neck piece onto the back of the prong, behind the body. Pry open the back of the brad, then press the prongs flat against the back of the dinosaur.
Repeat this step for the tail and both legs. Always add the limbs to the back of the body, not the front.
Make sure that the limbs are facing up as well, otherwise your dinosaur won’t match!
Brad prongs can hurt if they get under your nail. Consider using a butter knife to pry them apart.
7. Glue the spikes to the back of the dinosaur. Flip the dinosaur over so that you can see the back. Draw a line of glue along its back, then add the triangular spikes. Make sure that the flat bases are touching the dinosaur's back while the pointy tips are sticking out.
If you made nails for the dino, glue them to the bottom of each leg.
White school glue and glue sticks will work just fine for this. Hot glue is not recommended because it's too bulky.
8. Give the dinosaur a face. Here is where you can get a little creative. For a simple dinosaur, use a black marker to draw an eye and mouth. For a fancier dinosaur, use hot glue or white school glue to attach a googly eye to the dinosaur's face.
Give your dinosaur more character by adding eyebrows or eyelashes.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
Green construction paper, Orange construction paper, Glue stick, Thin cardboard, 4 brads, Pen or nail, Scissors, White school glue (optional), Googly eye (optional).
There are several fun ways to create a paper dog, and luckily all of them require very few materials! Create a fun miniature dog that can stand on its own legs out of origami paper, or make a folded dog face with a playful expression. You could even make paper dog hand puppets to play with!
Method 1 Folding an Origami Dog.
1. Select a piece of origami paper for your dog. Depending on what you have available, choose either a 3 by 3 in (7.6 by 7.6 cm), 6 by 6 in (15 by 15 cm), or 10 by 10 in (25 by 25 cm) piece of paper. The bigger the sheet of paper, the bigger your dog will be. Brown, tan, or white are common dog colors, but don’t hesitate to choose something more unconventional for your origami creation.
If you don’t have origami paper, use something else that is thin and easy to fold, like newspaper, magazine pages, or even wrapping paper. Cut the substitute into the right dimensions so you have a perfectly square piece of paper.
2. Fold the square of paper in half to create a triangle. Take the top-left corner and fold it across so it meets the bottom-right corner, forming a triangle shape. Run your finger along the fold to create a crease.
Use the back of your nail or something hard, like the body of a pen, to make your crease lines more defined.
3. Open the square back up and fold it in half diagonally the other way. Unfold the paper so it is a square again. Make another triangle by folding the top-right corner across to the bottom-left corner. Press down along the fold line to make another crease.
It’s really important in origami to have straight, defined creases. That is what enables your creation to stand upright once you’ve finished.
4. Unfold the square again and place it in front of you. Open up the piece of paper and set it in front of you. Make the bottom of the square parallel to your body.
There should be an “X” formed by the creases on the unfolded piece of paper.
5. Bring the bottom-left corner to the center point of the square and fold. With the square unfolded in front of you, take the bottom-left corner and place its tip in the center of the square, where the 2 creases intersect to create an “X”. Press the fold down to make a crease.
Making firm creases will also keep the folded pieces of paper in place while you work on other sections. Otherwise, you might risk things coming undone and losing your place in your project.
6. Repeat the previous step to bring all the corners to the center. One at a time, take each remaining corner (top left, top right, bottom right) and fold them so their points are in the center of the square. Fold and press down the crease for each corner.
Essentially, this step turns the original square into a smaller square. All the sides should still be equal to one another.
You will now have left, top, right, and bottom sides, with all points meeting in the middle of the square.
7. Open the left flap, fold it in half, and then fold it back in place. Unfold the left-hand side piece of paper. Fold the point in half, so that the tip of it meets the intersection of your previous fold line. Then fold the entire left flap back into place.
There should be an open triangle when you look down at your square.
8. Take the tip of the right flap and fold it back to overlap the edge line. Leave the flap folded to the center point. Take the tip of the corner that is in the center, and fold it back about 2/3rds of the way. Make your crease so that the top forms a triangle that overhangs the outer edge of the square.
Leave the top and bottom flaps in place and don’t do anything to them at this point.
This fold will eventually become the dog’s tail.
9. Fold the entire square in half lengthwise. Pick up the piece of paper. Fold it in half evenly, lengthwise, to create the left and right sides of your origami dog. When the fold is done, set the paper down in front of you so that the pointy tail is pointing to the right.
Take your time when lining up the center fold. If the lines aren’t straight, your dog will be wobbly.
10. Unfold the top flap and crease it from the top-left to bottom-right corner. Unfold the flap of paper from the top section of the dog so that its point is pointing toward your body. Then fold the entire section of paper up, and create a diagonal fold that starts at the top-left corner and finishes at the bottom-right corner.
At this point in the folding process, you’re making the dog’s head and legs.
11. Refold the right edge along the crease line. After making the diagonal fold, take the point of the piece of paper you just folded up, and bring it back down along the original crease line. This creates the slant of the dog’s “leg.”
The bottom edge should be in line with the ground if you were to pretend to stand it up.
12. Repeat the previous 2 steps on the opposite side. Flip the piece of paper over. Unfold the flap of paper and make a diagonal fold from the top-right corner to the bottom-left corner. Then fold the paper back down along its original crease line to form the other leg.
Even though you’re nearing the end, remember to take your time and make your folds as straight and defined as you can.
13. Pull out the fold inside the dog’s “nose.” When you look at the piece of paper, you should now see the dog’s tail, body, triangle legs, and triangle head. Look under the dog’s nose and carefully pull out the fold. This creates the dog’s mouth and gives it a more realistic look.
The crease line creates a jawline for the dog.
14. Draw a nose and eyes onto the dog to complete it. Take a marker and put an eye on each side of the dog, as well as a nose. For the nose, just fill in the area around the front tip of the head. You could also draw a little smile or any other embellishments you feel are appropriate.
Once you get the hang of the pattern, you can make an origami dog in just a few minutes.
Method 2 Creating a Dog Head.
1. Choose a piece of origami paper for your project. Origami-specific paper comes in squares, which means it’s ready to use and you don’t need to cut it at all. The larger the piece of paper you choose, the bigger the dog head will be. Choose a color for your dog, whether that is brown, black, white, tan, or an unconventional color, like blue or green.
If you don’t have origami paper, cut a thin sheet of paper, like newspaper or wrapping paper, into a square.
2. Fold the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner to make a triangle. Match up the 2 corners so that the sides are equal. Press the fold down firmly to create a crease.
To help crease the paper, push the fold down with the back of your nail or with the body of a pen. The stronger the crease, the better definition your dog head will have.
3. Bring the 2 bottom corners together to make a smaller triangle. Leave your first fold in place. Bring the bottom points together and make another fold to form a smaller triangle.
Take your time when making your folds and line up the edges neatly.
4. Unfold the triangle once, and place it so the tip is pointing at your body. Undo the last fold you did so that just the large triangle is left. Position the paper so that the top of the triangle is pointing at you.
You’ll use the center crease as a guide for your future folds.
5. Make a diagonal fold on the right-hand side, starting at the center crease. Make a bigger fold for bigger dog ears or a smaller fold for smaller ears. Make the crease start at the center line and fold the right-side corner down at a diagonal angle.
Keep the fold lined up with the center crease to create a proportional face.
6. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side. Try your best to create the same angle so that your dog’s ears are the same size. Start the diagonal fold at the center-crease line.
When you look down at your paper, you should see a very angular-looking dog head.
7. Fold back the bottom and top points to create straight lines. Fold back the top tip of the dog’s head just enough so that there is a flat line connecting the 2 ears. Fold the bottom tip back to create a jaw line for the dog.
If you need to, use a little bit of glue or double-sided tape to secure the points to the back of the dog’s head.
8. Draw the rest of the dog’s features to complete your project. Use a black marker to draw eyes, a nose, and a mouth on the paper. You can get as detailed as you want to, but for basic features, make circles for eyes and an upside-down triangle for the nose. For the mouth, make a “J” attached to a backwards “J” coming out of the tip of the dog’s nose.
You can get as creative as you’d like with designing the dog’s face. Try making spots on the ears or giving it whiskers or a tongue.
Method 3 Making a Hand Puppet.
1. Fold a piece of paper lengthwise into 3 equal sections. Use a piece of construction paper or computer paper, or anything that comes close in size to 8.5 by 11 in (22 by 28 cm). This piece of paper will be the dog’s head, so use whatever color you’d like for that. White works well, but brown, black, or even an unconventional color, like red, would be fine.
Avoid using really thin paper for this craft. You’ll be sticking your hands into the folds, so it needs to be a little thicker to hold up.
2. Glue the last fold down with your glue stick. To help your craft stay together, apply some glue to the back of the last fold. Press it down so it adheres to the other side.
Glue sticks work great because they don’t take long to dry. If you don’t have a glue stick, try using double-sided tape.
3. Fold the paper in half so the “seam” is on the outside. Bring the short ends of the paper together, making a crease in the middle. Fold the paper so that the side you just glued is facing up.
If you accidentally fold it the wrong way the first time, that’s okay. Just unfold it and reverse the direction.
4. Fold the open edge to the bottom crease on each side. On each side of the paper, take the top edge and fold it back so it’s in line with the bottom, and make a crease. After you’ve done this on each side, hold up the paper and check that it makes an “M.”
The top and bottom sections are where you’ll place your fingers to make the puppet talk.
5. Cut out the dog’s ears and tongue and glue them into place. Use different colors of construction paper to cut out oblong shapes for the ears and tongue. Use your glue stick to attach them to the paper. Place the tongue inside the “mouth” and glue the ears on the top of the paper, one on each side of the head.
For example, if you used white paper for the dog’s head, use red paper for the tongue and black paper for the ears.
6.Draw on the eyes and nose to complete your puppet. Use a black marker to draw circles for eyes and an upside down triangle for the nose. You could even put 3 small dots on either side of the nose to make whiskers. Use your imagination and enjoy the decoration process!
To use the hand puppet, simply put your thumb in the bottom flap and your fingers in the top flap. When you open and close your hand, the dog’s mouth will open and close, too.
Tips
Take your time when creating a new craft! It can take a while to get the hang of things, but keep at it and you’ll be able to make various paper dogs in no time.
If you get a paper cut, rinse it off with warm water and mild soap, and put a bandaid around it to keep it clean.
A bird's nest makes a wonderful mantelpiece decoration, and can make use of almost anything you find along a nature hike, or in your front yard. Wild birds usually prefer to make their own nests, but you can lure many species to your yard by leaving the right materials outside, or building a nesting box.
Method 1 Building a Decorative Nest.
1. Find long, flexible plant stems. These will form the main shape of the nest, and are much easier to work with than hard, short twigs. You can use straw, long grass, vines, willow fronds, bendy reeds, or seagrass found outdoors or at a garden supply store. Raffia is another good option, obtainable from a craft supply store.
If Mexican feather grass grows in your area, grab a clump of it and pull your hand upward to remove a handful of hairy seeds clinging together. Once you have enough seeds, clump them into a ball and make a nest shape by sticking your thumb into it.
2. Bend the stems into a loop. Grab a thick handful of the stems, and bend them into a U shape, adding more stems if necessary to form a full circle. Tie it in place using a piece of string or florist wire. If the plant stems have many little leaves, or if they're wiry and dry, you can even weave them together without using any attachment.
If tying the nest together is too hard, you can clip them temporarily in place while waiting for glue to dry. Don't use glue if you plan to keep the nest outdoors.
If your fresh-cut plants won't stay in position, try hanging up the bundle in a windy area to dry for 24 hours. Some plant stems are easier to bend when fresh, but grasses and straw benefit from drying.
3. Shape the rest of the nest. Grab a second, smaller handful of stems and shape it into a smaller loop. Wedge this inside the larger loop and push it downward to form the base of the loop. Depending on how well the stems fit together and how sturdy you want the nest to be, you may need to use a thread or glue to fasten the two loops together.
4. Decorate with scavenged materials. Real birds sometimes spend days collecting bits and pieces to build a nest. Hopefully you're a little faster, but you can still have fun gathering objects from nature or your craft boxes. Here are some ideas to get you started:
If you plan to leave the nest outside, only use materials found outdoors, and nothing that could hurt an animal.
Feathers and pieces of eggshell fit the theme. Be aware that collecting most wild feathers is illegal in the United States, but they are mostly harmless from a disease perspective.
Look for twigs, leaves, bark, and moss in interesting shapes and colors.
If the nest is for indoor decoration, you can use bits of string, colored paper shreds, and confetti.
5. Place eggs inside (optional). Finish your art project by placing eggs or fake eggs inside the nest. You can quickly add marbles or colorful pebbles, or hollow out real eggs, decorate them, or even carve them if you have the right tools.
Things You'll Need.
Any long, flexible bundle of stems, grass, or straw, String, florist's wire, or glue (recommended unless stems interweave easily).
Moss, bark, twigs, or other decorative materials, Eggs and egg-blowing materials (optional), Marbles, pebbles, or other "fake eggs" (optional).
Method 2 Attracting Wild Birds to Nearby Nests.
1. Look up the nesting habits of local birds. Find a local wildlife guide at a library or bookstore, or search online for information on local birds. Choose one or more species you want to attract, and look up their nesting habits to discover what shape and style of nest will be most effective.
If you live in North America, NestWatch is an excellent resource for nesting information, and one you can expand with your own data.
2. Leave nesting material in your yard. This is an easy way to attract birds, and might be worth it even if you end up building a full nest as well. If you managed to find specific nesting information, you'll know what materials to leave, but you can't go wrong with a few items from the following list, left in visible locations:
Rigid twigs (for platform nest species) and flexible ones (for cup nest species).
Yard clippings such as dry grass and straw, bits of bark and moss, dead leaves, etc.
Human or animal hair or fur (no longer than 6 inches / 15 centimeters).
Yarn or string.
Mud, spiderwebs, and/or caterpillar cocoons to help birds bind nesting materials together.
Never leave out materials that have come into contact with harsh chemicals, including dye, pesticides, or anti-flea treatments. Dryer lint and clothing rags are not recommended.
3. Provide a variety of plants. If you want to attract birds that make nests in existing holes, leave dead tree stumps and fallen logs in the yard. Living trees and bushes will attract more visible nests from other species, especially if the plants are native to your area. For best results, plant a "staircase" of grass or moss, flowering perennials, shrubs, and trees.
4. Build a nesting box. If there aren't obvious crevices or hollows in your yard, building a nesting box or birdhouse is a simple carpentry project. Make sure the birdhouse is constructed to match the size of the birds you want to attract, or the size of the birds you see flying near your home.
For a higher chance of success, follow birdhouse building instructions specific to common North American species.
Clean out the birdhouse regularly whenever birds are not nesting.
5. Make a bird's nest. Many birds prefer to make their own nest rather than move in to a ready-made one. Lining natural hollows with the nesting materials listed above may give a bird an attractive head start. If you want to make a different type of nest, such as a cup or platform nest, it's best to follow the specific habits of the bird species you want to attract. Each species tends to prefer certain materials.
Placement of the nest is also important. Many bird species hide their nest amidst thick branches, but some prefer more open branches, bushes, or open patches of ground. Look for more information on NestWatch, through online searches, or in a local bird nest identification guide.
Things You'll Need.
Any yard clippings, especially twigs and grasses, String or yarn, Mud, spiderwebs, or caterpillar cocoons.
Human hair or animal fur, Small amount of lumber and nails (to build a nesting box, if hollow logs not available).
Question : Where do you get all the supplies?
Answer : You can find the necessary items on the ground in a park or wooded area, perhaps even your back yard!
Question : How do I make the nest big?
Answer : You can use longer sticks that are pliable enough to bend. Just make sure not to break them.
Question : What if I live in the city?
Answer : If you live in the city and want to attract birds, put up bird feeders. Birds love cracked corn, nyjer seeds, black oil seeds, fruits, and millet. Just make sure to take measures to keep the squirrels out.
Question : Am I allowed to take care of a wild baby bird if its mother is away and it's storming outside?
Answer : No. Leave the baby bird alone. Its mother will come back for it. Wild animals can take care of each other and themselves, they very rarely need our help. The bird will be fine in the storm.
Question : How do I make a bottled nest box?
Answer : Just take a milk bottle (not glass) and make an opening in the body of the box. Then take a rope and make holes at the top and tie the rope to the holes. Make sure you make it tight.
Question : Can I hatch the eggs myself?
Answer : If it is a wild bird egg do not touch it. In the USA it is illegal to take care of wild birds.
Question : Can I look at the eggs when they have been laid?
Answer : You can take a peek, as long as the mother bird is not nearby. Make sure you don't touch the eggs, as you will leave a scent behind that the mother bird can detect.
Question : Are most bird nests made of straw, twigs, and mud?
Answer : Yes, that is what a typical bird nest is made of.
Question : What can I do about wild animals that eat the eggs?
Answer : It depends on the animal. For squirrels, you can't really do anything, but for other birds you can find a better spot to put the nesting box. You shouldn't worry too much, because the mother bird will protect it's young with her life.
Question : Can I make a bird nest from leftover grass from a lawn mower?
Answer : Lawn clippings are probably too short to make a decent nest. Maybe if you collect it and dry it out you can use a few pieces to line the nest.
Tips.
For a quick and easy nest, shred or cut a paper bag into thin strips. Line a bowl with a paper towel, arrange the strips over them, then glue the paper bag strips together and let dry into a nest shape.
It’s fine to take a look at the eggs, but be careful, because smart animals like coyotes can follow you to the nest. If you have no predators in the area, taking a look at the eggs will leave a scent, but birds don’t have a sense of smell.
Warnings.
If a wild bird moves in to your nest, don't disturb it or the surrounding area. Watch the nest from somewhere the bird can't see you, or you may scare the bird away or attract predators to the nest.
