how to decorate plastic containers

How to Decorate Plastic Containers.

From pill boxes to room organizers, plastic containers are an essential part of everyday life. Though they do their job well, these containers are generally designed with simplicity in mind, meaning there’s plenty of room to decorate. Using simple materials like paper, stickers, paint, and ribbon, you can turn any plastic container into something truly fabulous.







Method 1 Covering with Patterns and Colors.



Use patterned cloth to cover the container. Find a cloth pattern that matches your style and cut out enough to cover the container. Use a paintbrush to apply a layer of mod podge to both the back of the cloth and the plastic, then press your cloth into it. As it sets, apply another layer of mod podge over the top and let it dry.

Try to tie the patterned cloth into the room itself, such as using polka-dotted fabric in a room with polka-dotted wallpaper or zebra-striped cloth in a room with black and white furniture.



Use patterned paper to line the container. Patterned paper works great for containers that are translucent. Find a pattern you like and cut out enough to line the plastic. Smooth out the paper and apply a layer of mod podge to both it and the inside of the container. Stick it to the plastic and apply another coat on top, making sure the paper remains smooth.

Try to use colors that match the container’s environment, like bright pastels for a baby room or light, muted colors for a kitchen.



Use paint to add color to your container. Wash your container with dish soap and warm water. When dry, gently sand the surface with 220 to 300-grit sandpaper, then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. Use painter’s tape to cover areas you don’t want to paint, then apply a coat of primer to the container. Once it has dried, you will be able to paint the plastic with spray, acrylic, or enamel paint.

Use stencils to paint or spray specific designs onto your container, such as zig-zags or checkerboards.



Use patterned duct tape as a simple decoration. Duct tape is an incredibly versatile tool, and since it comes in many different colors and patterns, it provides a quick solution for spicing up drab plastic. Find a pattern of duct tape you like and simply press it onto the container. For small and portable containers, a small amount of duct tape will add personality without bulk.







Method 2 Using Creative Labels.



Cut out labels to create a simple organizing system. Sometimes, the best way to decorate a container is to simply label it, especially if you need to use it in a professional environment. Cut a piece of single-colored construction paper into a thin strip, then write a label on it in clear, bold letters. Fix the label to your container using tape or glue.

To make your labels pop, glue them to a slightly larger piece of colored paper before putting them on the container.



Add lettering to create labels and messages. For larger containers, craft lettering may be a good option. If your letters come with adhesive backs, apply them as is. If they don’t, use a small amount of glue to keep them in place. Along with names and standard labels, letters can be used to write:

A motivational message for containers holding school supplies.

A favorite quote or book passage for a media box.

A joke label, like the word ‘Zoo’ for a container filled with stuffed animals.



Print labels from a computer. Creating labels on a computer allows you to add anything from photos and graphics to small and instructional text. Programs like Word and Pages can create simple labels with borders, while more advanced programs like Adobe InDesign may be appropriate for specialized labels. When you have a design made, print it on thick paper, cut it out, and glue or tape it to your container.



Label your container with objects from inside it. If your container will be holding craft items, toys, or other small, non-perishable objects, use them to create a unique label. Instead of writing “LEGOs” on a plastic box, glue a couple bricks to the front. Instead of writing “Office Supplies,” glue a binder clip or marker.









Method 3 Accessorizing.



Add ribbon to your container. Ribbon and similar trims can give your container a more elegant feel. They can be applied using mod podge, hot glue, or tape, and some ribbon can simply be tied around the plastic. Look for ribbon designs that match the contents of the box, such as silver ribbon for keepsakes or colorful ribbon for candy.



Add stickers to your container. Stickers are a great, fast way to cover a plastic container. Simple stickers, like those found in dollar stores and craft books, are perfect and come in a variety of styles. Avoid bubble and 3D stickers if you plan on storing your container in tight spaces.

If your container holds a collection, put down a new sticker every time it grows.



Use hot glue to create glitter designs. When handled right, hot glue can be a fun alternative to traditional paint. Use a small marker to draw a design on your container. With a hot glue gun, carefully trace over it. Before the glue sets, pour glitter over it and let the whole thing dry. Shake off excess glitter and enjoy the shiny, fun design.

This method can also be used to label your container. Simply spell out a word, pour glitter on it, and let it set.



Use ink stamps to press patterns into the plastic. To give your container an old school feel, use ink stamps to create unique patterns and designs. Make sure to press your stamp firmly onto the container, that way the ink sets evenly. Stamps are available at craft stores like Hobby Lobby and Michael’s, and specialty or custom stamps can be ordered online.

Common stamp designs include hearts, religious symbols, fruits, and simple animals. Try to find one that matches the container’s environment.



Add craft jewels, flowers, and other items. Craft jewels, fake flowers, and other small objects are an easy way to add some fabulous flair to your container. Use hot glue or a bedazzling gun to apply the objects to the plastic. If you don’t have enough to make a uniform pattern, try arranging them in small shapes or designs, such as a heart or smiley face.



Create a collage on the container. If your container will be holding something particularly special, use its surface for a collage. This will make your container beautiful while clearly showing what it contains. Cut out portions of photos, magazines, newspapers, and similar printed materials. Using either hot glue or mod podge, paste individual items to the box, making sure they are flat and smooth. Some potential arrangements include.

Photos of your family or best friends, especially if your container is a keepsake box.

Pictures of book covers, movie posters, or album artwork, especially if your container is a media box.

Pictures of your favorite celebrities and characters.

November 18, 2019

diy cat scratching post for your feline friends

diy cat scratching post for your feline friends

DIY Cat Scratching Post

More often than not, cats can be found lounging in the sun or snoozing the day away. But don’t let them fool you—they love to play. Cats love climbing, chasing, and jumping just as much as any other pet.



But all the climbing and scratching can lead to wear and tear. Instead of sacrificing your beloved couch or armchair, find some enriching toys to give your feline to keep them happy and healthy. That way, everyone can live in peace.



While perusing the pet store shelves, you may notice that most toys, treats, and beds are lacking in style. For some reason, a lot of pet products are behind the curve when it comes to aesthetically pleasing design. With DIY, you can maintain your dream home’s modern decor while giving your pet everything you need.



This DIY scratching post is sure to please your furry friend. Plus, it will look great hanging on your wall! Say goodbye to boring beige cat furniture.



Gather Your Supplies

This DIY requires a few easy-to-find supplies. To make it even more budget-friendly, head to a second-hand store to find a frame. You can easily upcycle it at a low cost.



Here’s what you’ll need:



Small rug



Scissors



Measuring tape



11" x 14" picture frame





Measure and Cut Your Rug

You may not even have to head to the store to find the carpet material for this project. If you remodeled your home, you likely already have some leftover carpet in the garage.



But if not, you can find carpet samples at local carpet retailers. Or you can use an indoor/outdoor decorative rug (like the one we used), a door mat, or even a bath rug. Just be sure your material isn’t unraveled or damaged—that’s the cat’s job.



Before using your scissors to cut your carpet, use a measuring tape to measure the size of the picture frame. Then, use those measurements to cut a rectangular section of your carpet that will fit perfectly inside the picture frame. If the first try isn’t perfect, just keep trimming away.



Your regular pair of scissors will sometimes work for this, but it depends on the material you use. If it’s difficult to cut with scissors, try using sharp shears.



Secure in Frame

Once you have cut your material to match the size of your frame, it’s time to secure them together.



First, remove the sample photo and glass cover from your picture frame. These parts aren’t necessary and you can keep them for future crafts or recycle them if you have no use for them.



If your picture frame has a kickstand on the back, it may be necessary to remove it. This frame will be hung on the wall and a kickstand on the back may make it too bulky, causing it to stick out when it’s hung up.



Secure your piece of rug or carpet inside your picture frame. Be sure to apply the cardboard backing piece that came with the frame onto the back to make sure things stay in place.



Display

The moment we’ve all been waiting for is here! Now that your DIY is finished, you’ve got an adorable piece of wall decor that looks great and satisfies your kitty to no end. Every cat will appreciate this fun toy. And when it wears out, just replace the material inside to keeping things looking new.



Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/



Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





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November 01, 2019

how to make a polymer clay penguin

How to Make a Polymer Clay Penguin.

There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!

Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.

1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.

2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.

3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.

4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.

5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.

6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.

7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.

8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.

9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.

Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.

Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.

10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.

11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.

12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.

13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.

14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.

15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.

If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.

16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.

17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.

Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.

1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.

Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!

2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.

3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.

4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.

5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.

6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.

7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.

If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.

8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.

9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.

If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.

10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.

11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.

Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.

Tips.

You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.

Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).

If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.

Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.

Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.

You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.

If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.

If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.

Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.

Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.



Warnings.

Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.



Things You'll Need

Making a Basic Penguin.

Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.

Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).



Making a Penguin Charm.

Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.

Oven, Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Orange acrylic paint, Thin paintbrush, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).

Januari 25, 2020

how to melt glue sticks

How to Melt Glue Sticks.

Glue sticks can be melted down for a number of applications. Whether used in crafts, manufacturing, packaging, fashion, or in any other creative function, glue sticks are a cheap and easy to come by product. All-purpose or school glue sticks and hot glue gun sticks can both be melted in the microwave, and hot glue gun sticks can, of course, be melted in a glue gun. If handled carefully and done properly, the processes are extremely quick and can help you adhere all kinds of surfaces to one another.







Microwaving Glue Sticks







Remove the glue sticks from their original packaging. All-purpose or school glue sticks can be unscrewed and pulled or broken off from their plastic casings. Hot glue gun sticks simply need to be removed from any packaging or wrappers.

Make sure there are no plastics or other wrappings in or on the glue you want to melt. Most wrappings and plastics are not intended to be melted and can be unsafe to do so.

If your glue stick has a plastic piece through the center, carefully cut the glue away from the plastic using a knife.



Put the stick(s) into a microwave-safe dish. Since the glue will be very messy and hard to clean, use a single-use paper bowl. If you are dedicating the dish to the craft of melting glue sticks, a ceramic or glass mug or bowl will also work.

Be sure the glue sticks are fully inside of the dish. If they overhang the mug or bowl, they will melt outside of the dish.

Start with smaller quantities to test how long your particular glue takes to melt.



Microwave the glue on full power in 20-second intervals. Depending on your microwave and amount of glue, you should at least be able to partially melt the sticks. If there are still solids, microwave the glue for an additional 20 seconds after stirring it with a craft stick or plastic spoon.

Do not leave the microwave unattended. If something goes wrong, you should be there to stop the microwave.

Do not heat the sticks for extended periods of time. It may look like nothing is wrong while it heats, but overheating the glue can create fumes that are unsafe.



Remove the glue from the microwave carefully. You should use it immediately, but be careful as the glue will be quite hot. Depending on how long it was heated, the dish can be hot as well.

Use the glue fresh out of the microwave so it will be easy to apply.

If the glue re-hardens, simply microwave it for another 20 seconds.







Melting Glue Sticks with a Glue Gun





Obtain a glue gun at least as big as the glue sticks. Only use hot glue sticks intended for glue guns—not all-purpose or school glue sticks. If the sticks won’t fit into the glue gun, you cannot melt them. If the sticks are too small, you will just have to use your hand to feed them through.

Make sure your glue sticks are meant for a glue gun. You should not use other types of glue sticks because they can damage your glue gun.



Plug in the glue gun over cardboard or newspaper. As the tip of the gun heats, the gun may start to drip as it melts. By putting a piece of cardboard or newspaper underneath, you can protect your working surface.

Always follow the instructions specific to your glue gun regarding electricity and timing.

Do not leave a glue gun unattended. They can tip over or otherwise cause severe burns if you are not careful.



Squeeze the trigger of the glue gun to feed the sticks. If the sticks match the size of the glue gun, the trigger will allow the stick to press and feed through the heated tip. The glue will then melt and drip out wherever you point the gun.

Do not touch the metal tip of the gun or the melting glue. They will both be extremely hot.

If the glue is not feeding through, it may either be too large of a stick or may still be heating up.

If your glue stick is smaller than the glue gun, you will have to push from the back end of the stick to feed it through.

Use gloves to protect your hands from the heated materials.



Insert another stick once the first no longer feeds through. If the gun or your fingers can no longer safely feed the first stick through the rear of the glue gun, use another glue stick to press it through. It will then be caught by the plastic feeding mechanism and continue melting.





Warnings.

Do not touch melted glue. It will be extremely hot and adhere to your skin, making the burn worse.

Do not inhale melted glue fumes. Some glues are non-toxic, but not all of them are. Regardless, the fumes can be dangerous, and you may need to wear a respirator while working.

November 13, 2019

how to make a sock monkey

How to Make a Sock Monkey.

This classic, goofy sock toy has been a favorite of children and adults for years. Making something this popular may sound like a daunting task, but it is actually quite easy. To make a sock monkey of your own, follow these steps.



Making the Legs.



Find two clean socks. The best ones will be ones with heels and toes in contrasting colors to the rest of the sock. One sock will be used to make the body, legs, and head, and the other will used to make the arms, tail, face, and ears.

These monkeys were traditionally made with “Rockford Red Heel Socks.” If you have striped socks, those work well, too. If your socks have cuffs, be sure to undo the seam carefully; the cuff length is needed for the length of the monkey.



Turn both socks inside-out.



Lay one sock with the heel flat down. You may have to flatten the sock against its natural crease to make this happen. If it's not cooperating, grab an iron and give it a quick once-over



Draw a center line on the sock from the toe to approximately one inch from the colored heel. This will become the split in the monkey’s legs. Again, note that the heel is actually hidden beneath the sock at this point, so you may have to flip it over briefly to double-check your positioning.

Erasable fabric marker works best for drawing. Make sure before you cut that your line is indeed on the halfway mark -- a monkey with one fat leg and one skinny leg is not a happy monkey.



With the sock still folded flat, sew up one side of your marked line and back down the other. Leave approximately 1/4 inch (.6 cm) between the line and each of your seams.

You can either use a sewing machine or sew by hand. If you're using a sewing machine, use your walking foot.



Cut along the line between your two seams. The monkey’s legs and colored feet will now be clearly visible.



Making the Body and Head



Turn the sock right-side out and stuff the entire thing. Polyfill stuffing is available at all craft supply stores. The upper half of the sock will become the torso and head.

The amount of stuffing is up to you. How firm do you want your monkey? If the sock is thin, you may want to err on the side of under stuffing, as overstuffing it may cause it to stretch.



Sew the head and/or hat. If your sock opening is the same color as the body of the sock, just make a nice rounded head and stitch it shut. If it is a contrasting color, you will need to decide if you want to cut it off (making a shorter body for the monkey) and make the head as usual or use the excess coloring as a "hat" by not stuffing the last inch or two and cinching the opening into a cone shape.

To make the head: Stitch around the neck with quarter inch stitches. Use sturdy thread such as embroidery floss. Pull the stitches snugly until you get the size neck you want and knot the ends. Round out the head area with stuffing as desired and stitch the top opening shut.



If you are making a hat, start working with the cuff. Gather the tip with large stitches and snug/cinch them closed. Fold the raw edges to the center and tuck inside. Then, stitch the opening closed. Winter ready!



Making the Arms, Tail, and Ears



Cut the second sock into sections as shown. Though the pattern is only drawn on the top, make sure to cut through both layers.



Fold both arm pieces in half lengthwise. Then sew up the open side in a gentle arc around the dark ends; the dark ends will become the paws and the opposites (open ends) are where the arm will be stuffed and then attached to the body.

Keep all of these sections open-ended. Make sure they're turned inside-out as you work! If they're not, all your seams will be very, very rough.



Fold the tailpiece in half lengthwise. Then sew up the open side and in a gentle arc around the dark end as you did with the arms; the dark end will become the tip of the tail and the opposite, open end is where the tail will be stuffed and attached to the body.



Fold each ear in half and cut across the crease. Then, sew in a gentle arc following the rounded sides, leaving the flat side open. The opening is where you will stuff each ear and then attach it to the body. Noticing a pattern?

If you'd like, you can then fold the ears again, forming a vertical line down the middle of the ear (giving it depth like a real ear has). Basically, pinch the edge you just sewed in and bring the two points together. Slip stitch the two sides together.



For now, do nothing with the muzzle (formerly the heel). That part's saved for later.



Flip the sewn pieces right-side out and stuff them. You should now have two arms, two ears, a tail, and an unsewn, unstuffed nose.

The tail may prove to be a bit of a problem. You could try to stuff it using regular polyfill stuffing and a pencil to poke it through, or you could use batting or part of an aquarium filter. Both the batting and the filter are a bit firmer and will create a more uniform-looking tail in the long run.



Attach the tail to the rump. Position it carefully and slip stitch it all the way around.



Attach the arms to either side of the body. You may want them a little higher than your natural inclination says; this will give your sock a more monkey-like posture.



Assembling the Face and Ears



Trim away the edges of the heel piece if necessary. Since this will form the muzzle, try to make sure the piece of fabric is uniform in color. Note that, since the outermost edges will be covered, you do not have to make them perfect.



Fold the bottom of the muzzle under and sew it to the bottom of the monkey's chin. Make sure no raw edges are visible along the bottom, but leave the top open for now.



Add stuffing to make the muzzle puff out. You may want to refer to existing images of sock monkeys as to how this should look. The best sock monkeys seem to have a muzzle that puffs out at nearly a 90º angle.



Fold the raw edge under and stitch the top edge to the face. The muzzle should take up a large amount of the area for the head -- don't worry about needing space for the rest of his features.

Go ahead, give your monkey a mouth! Along the toe line of the muzzle (which should be dead center) branch stitch in a contrasting color of thread.

If you'd like nostrils, simply embroider two small rectangles above the mouth about 1" (2.5 cm) apart.



Fold the raw edges of each ear to the inside and stitch them closed. Stitch the completed ears to the sides of the head. They should be in line with where the eyes will be, just above the muzzle. Make sure they stick out from the front!



Add button eyes. To give your monkey whites on the outside of his eyes, glue or sew the buttons onto a bit of white felt. Then, with thread of a contrasting color, sew on the felt just above the muzzle. You now have an adorable sock monkey!

For a non-demonic looking monkey, stick to black buttons. The size you need depends on the size of your monkey. And if you're giving it to a child, either avoid the buttons entirely or make sure they're sewn on really well !







Tips.

Important: when stuffing the sock monkey, use small pieces of stuffing. Using bigger pieces may be quicker, but the results aren't satisfying at all. The project will come out lumpy and, well, ugly. Smaller pieces leave a smooth finish. It may help to use the eraser end of a pencil to gently push stuffing into place.

To add personality to your monkey you can cut out a red heart and put it in your monkey's chest before you sew it up.

You can use fabric glue to add the eyes instead of sewing them on.



Further ideas.

Sew a tiny red vest for the monkey with buttons down the front to make him/her look like an organ grinder's monkey.

Embroider a mouth line on the nose or eyebrows for added expression.

Cinch elbows, knees, wrists and ankles for the monkey using the same technique as for the neck.

Add a pom pom to the hat for a winter monkey, or a flower to the hat for a spring monkey, etc.

Sew a fabric banana into the monkey's hand.

Sew a tiny red heart on the monkey's chest.

Knit a scarf for more winter fun.

If you don't have stuffing, you can use old pieces of t-shirts, crushed and dried flower petal, used dryer sheets, tissue paper, yarn, grass or rice.

If you don't have any buttons, you could use googly eyes instead.

Bright colored socks work well. Also spots and stripes are great.

Eyes can also be drawn onto your monkey. Embroidery is another option.



Warnings.

If you're giving the sock monkey to a child under three years old, don't use buttons for the eyes. If they come loose, they could end up in the child's mouth. Instead, embroider the eyes on, use child-safe doll/cat eyes, or use nontoxic fabric paint or markers to draw the eyes or use felt eyes.

Use only socks you have permission to cut up.

Scissors and needles are sharp. Be careful when using them.



Things You'll Need.

One pair of socks with contrasting colored heels and toes.

Stuffing.

Embroidery floss or yarn to match your sock.

Sewing supplies: needles, sewing machine, scissors, etc.

A bright pen/marker to copy the pattern onto the socks.

Two buttons for eyes (optional).

Extra fabric for additional details (optional).

Iron (if necessary)

November 07, 2019

how to make a paper dog

How to Make a Paper Dog.

There are several fun ways to create a paper dog, and luckily all of them require very few materials! Create a fun miniature dog that can stand on its own legs out of origami paper, or make a folded dog face with a playful expression. You could even make paper dog hand puppets to play with!

Method 1 Folding an Origami Dog.

1. Select a piece of origami paper for your dog. Depending on what you have available, choose either a 3 by 3 in (7.6 by 7.6 cm), 6 by 6 in (15 by 15 cm), or 10 by 10 in (25 by 25 cm) piece of paper. The bigger the sheet of paper, the bigger your dog will be. Brown, tan, or white are common dog colors, but don’t hesitate to choose something more unconventional for your origami creation.

If you don’t have origami paper, use something else that is thin and easy to fold, like newspaper, magazine pages, or even wrapping paper. Cut the substitute into the right dimensions so you have a perfectly square piece of paper.

2. Fold the square of paper in half to create a triangle. Take the top-left corner and fold it across so it meets the bottom-right corner, forming a triangle shape. Run your finger along the fold to create a crease.

Use the back of your nail or something hard, like the body of a pen, to make your crease lines more defined.

3. Open the square back up and fold it in half diagonally the other way. Unfold the paper so it is a square again. Make another triangle by folding the top-right corner across to the bottom-left corner. Press down along the fold line to make another crease.

It’s really important in origami to have straight, defined creases. That is what enables your creation to stand upright once you’ve finished.

4. Unfold the square again and place it in front of you. Open up the piece of paper and set it in front of you. Make the bottom of the square parallel to your body.

There should be an “X” formed by the creases on the unfolded piece of paper.

5. Bring the bottom-left corner to the center point of the square and fold. With the square unfolded in front of you, take the bottom-left corner and place its tip in the center of the square, where the 2 creases intersect to create an “X”. Press the fold down to make a crease.

Making firm creases will also keep the folded pieces of paper in place while you work on other sections. Otherwise, you might risk things coming undone and losing your place in your project.

6. Repeat the previous step to bring all the corners to the center. One at a time, take each remaining corner (top left, top right, bottom right) and fold them so their points are in the center of the square. Fold and press down the crease for each corner.

Essentially, this step turns the original square into a smaller square. All the sides should still be equal to one another.

You will now have left, top, right, and bottom sides, with all points meeting in the middle of the square.

7. Open the left flap, fold it in half, and then fold it back in place. Unfold the left-hand side piece of paper. Fold the point in half, so that the tip of it meets the intersection of your previous fold line. Then fold the entire left flap back into place.

There should be an open triangle when you look down at your square.

8. Take the tip of the right flap and fold it back to overlap the edge line. Leave the flap folded to the center point. Take the tip of the corner that is in the center, and fold it back about 2/3rds of the way. Make your crease so that the top forms a triangle that overhangs the outer edge of the square.

Leave the top and bottom flaps in place and don’t do anything to them at this point.

This fold will eventually become the dog’s tail.

9. Fold the entire square in half lengthwise. Pick up the piece of paper. Fold it in half evenly, lengthwise, to create the left and right sides of your origami dog. When the fold is done, set the paper down in front of you so that the pointy tail is pointing to the right.

Take your time when lining up the center fold. If the lines aren’t straight, your dog will be wobbly.

10. Unfold the top flap and crease it from the top-left to bottom-right corner. Unfold the flap of paper from the top section of the dog so that its point is pointing toward your body. Then fold the entire section of paper up, and create a diagonal fold that starts at the top-left corner and finishes at the bottom-right corner.

At this point in the folding process, you’re making the dog’s head and legs.

11. Refold the right edge along the crease line. After making the diagonal fold, take the point of the piece of paper you just folded up, and bring it back down along the original crease line. This creates the slant of the dog’s “leg.”

The bottom edge should be in line with the ground if you were to pretend to stand it up.

12. Repeat the previous 2 steps on the opposite side. Flip the piece of paper over. Unfold the flap of paper and make a diagonal fold from the top-right corner to the bottom-left corner. Then fold the paper back down along its original crease line to form the other leg.

Even though you’re nearing the end, remember to take your time and make your folds as straight and defined as you can.

13. Pull out the fold inside the dog’s “nose.” When you look at the piece of paper, you should now see the dog’s tail, body, triangle legs, and triangle head. Look under the dog’s nose and carefully pull out the fold. This creates the dog’s mouth and gives it a more realistic look.

The crease line creates a jawline for the dog.

14. Draw a nose and eyes onto the dog to complete it. Take a marker and put an eye on each side of the dog, as well as a nose. For the nose, just fill in the area around the front tip of the head. You could also draw a little smile or any other embellishments you feel are appropriate.

Once you get the hang of the pattern, you can make an origami dog in just a few minutes.

Method 2 Creating a Dog Head.

1. Choose a piece of origami paper for your project. Origami-specific paper comes in squares, which means it’s ready to use and you don’t need to cut it at all. The larger the piece of paper you choose, the bigger the dog head will be. Choose a color for your dog, whether that is brown, black, white, tan, or an unconventional color, like blue or green.

If you don’t have origami paper, cut a thin sheet of paper, like newspaper or wrapping paper, into a square.

2. Fold the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner to make a triangle. Match up the 2 corners so that the sides are equal. Press the fold down firmly to create a crease.

To help crease the paper, push the fold down with the back of your nail or with the body of a pen. The stronger the crease, the better definition your dog head will have.

3. Bring the 2 bottom corners together to make a smaller triangle. Leave your first fold in place. Bring the bottom points together and make another fold to form a smaller triangle.

Take your time when making your folds and line up the edges neatly.

4. Unfold the triangle once, and place it so the tip is pointing at your body. Undo the last fold you did so that just the large triangle is left. Position the paper so that the top of the triangle is pointing at you.

You’ll use the center crease as a guide for your future folds.

5. Make a diagonal fold on the right-hand side, starting at the center crease. Make a bigger fold for bigger dog ears or a smaller fold for smaller ears. Make the crease start at the center line and fold the right-side corner down at a diagonal angle.

Keep the fold lined up with the center crease to create a proportional face.

6. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side. Try your best to create the same angle so that your dog’s ears are the same size. Start the diagonal fold at the center-crease line.

When you look down at your paper, you should see a very angular-looking dog head.

7. Fold back the bottom and top points to create straight lines. Fold back the top tip of the dog’s head just enough so that there is a flat line connecting the 2 ears. Fold the bottom tip back to create a jaw line for the dog.

If you need to, use a little bit of glue or double-sided tape to secure the points to the back of the dog’s head.

8. Draw the rest of the dog’s features to complete your project. Use a black marker to draw eyes, a nose, and a mouth on the paper. You can get as detailed as you want to, but for basic features, make circles for eyes and an upside-down triangle for the nose. For the mouth, make a “J” attached to a backwards “J” coming out of the tip of the dog’s nose.

You can get as creative as you’d like with designing the dog’s face. Try making spots on the ears or giving it whiskers or a tongue.

Method 3 Making a Hand Puppet.

1. Fold a piece of paper lengthwise into 3 equal sections. Use a piece of construction paper or computer paper, or anything that comes close in size to 8.5 by 11 in (22 by 28 cm). This piece of paper will be the dog’s head, so use whatever color you’d like for that. White works well, but brown, black, or even an unconventional color, like red, would be fine.

Avoid using really thin paper for this craft. You’ll be sticking your hands into the folds, so it needs to be a little thicker to hold up.

2. Glue the last fold down with your glue stick. To help your craft stay together, apply some glue to the back of the last fold. Press it down so it adheres to the other side.

Glue sticks work great because they don’t take long to dry. If you don’t have a glue stick, try using double-sided tape.

3. Fold the paper in half so the “seam” is on the outside. Bring the short ends of the paper together, making a crease in the middle. Fold the paper so that the side you just glued is facing up.

If you accidentally fold it the wrong way the first time, that’s okay. Just unfold it and reverse the direction.

4. Fold the open edge to the bottom crease on each side. On each side of the paper, take the top edge and fold it back so it’s in line with the bottom, and make a crease. After you’ve done this on each side, hold up the paper and check that it makes an “M.”

The top and bottom sections are where you’ll place your fingers to make the puppet talk.

5. Cut out the dog’s ears and tongue and glue them into place. Use different colors of construction paper to cut out oblong shapes for the ears and tongue. Use your glue stick to attach them to the paper. Place the tongue inside the “mouth” and glue the ears on the top of the paper, one on each side of the head.

For example, if you used white paper for the dog’s head, use red paper for the tongue and black paper for the ears.

6.Draw on the eyes and nose to complete your puppet. Use a black marker to draw circles for eyes and an upside down triangle for the nose. You could even put 3 small dots on either side of the nose to make whiskers. Use your imagination and enjoy the decoration process!

To use the hand puppet, simply put your thumb in the bottom flap and your fingers in the top flap. When you open and close your hand, the dog’s mouth will open and close, too.

Tips

Take your time when creating a new craft! It can take a while to get the hang of things, but keep at it and you’ll be able to make various paper dogs in no time.

If you get a paper cut, rinse it off with warm water and mild soap, and put a bandaid around it to keep it clean.

Things You’ll Need.

Origami paper, Marker, Origami paper, Marker, Construction paper, marker, Scissors, Glue stick.

Desember 19, 2019

how to make a spotted cardboard cow

How to Make a Spotted Cardboard Cow.

Cows are a favorite barnyard animal among kids of all ages. If you want to make your own cow, there are many different ways to do it, so you can choose a craft based on the materials you have on hand.

Steps.

1. Cut up the cardboard tubes. You can start with two empty toilet paper rolls or one empty paper towel roll.

If you use the paper towel roll, cut it in half. Refer to each half as a separate roll for the remainder of the instructions.

Cut one of the rolls in half. Save one half for use as the cow's head and discard the other half.

Cut 1 inch (2.5 cm) off one end of the other roll. This roll will become the body of the cow. Discard the excess 1 inch (2.5 cm).

2. Create ear slits. Using pencil, lightly sketch two ovals onto one end of the head piece, positioning them on opposite sides of the cylindrical perimeter.

These ovals will become ears. Each one should be about one-quarter the length of the tube.

Carefully cut along three-quarters of each oval outline, leaving the innermost end of each oval alone. Fold up the cut portions so that they stick out from the sides of the tube, creating ears.

3. Snip and fold horn slits. Draw two small triangles near one end of the tube, centering them in between both ears.

These triangles will become horns. They should be smaller than half the size of one ear.

Carefully cut along two edges of each triangle, leaving the innermost edge alone. Fold up the cut portions so that they stick out from the side of the tube, creating horns.

4. Cut out two egg carton sections. Cut two compartments out of an empty egg carton. Discard the rest of the carton.

These two sections will become the legs of your cow. One section will form both front legs and the other will form both back legs.

Carefully cut out the front and back of both sections, leaving the sides and bottoms intact.

5. Paint everything white. Paint both cardboard tubes and both egg carton sections white. Allow the paint to dry.

You should paint both sides of the ear slits, but you do not need to paint the horn slits at this time.

6. Add black spots. Use black paint to add spots to the head and body of the cow. Let the paint dry when finished.

To create realistic spots, paint spots with uneven sides. Avoid sharp points, opting for rounded corners instead.

Note that you should also space the spots apart in uneven intervals instead of creating patterns or symmetry.

7. Define the ears and horns. Paint a small pink oval in the front side of each ear. Paint both sides of each horn gray. Let the paint dry.

The pink inner ear should follow the outline of the ear slit, but you should leave some blank white space around the edge of each center.

8. Attach the eyes. Using craft glue, adhere two googly craft eyes onto the face. Allow the glue to dry completely.

Both eyes should lie just in front of the ears along the length of the head. Place each eye in between one horn and one ear along the width (perimeter) of the head.

9. Glue the pieces together. Glue both egg carton pieces onto the same side of the body roll. Glue the head onto the opposite side of the body roll.

Turn both carton sections upside-down so that the flat bottoms become the tops. Place one section near the front of the body and the other section near the back.

With the cow standing on its egg carton feet, glue the back half of the head onto the top of the body.

10. Stuff the rolls with cotton. Once everything dries, stuff cotton balls into both open cardboard rolls.

Use enough cotton to tightly back both rolls. If you pack it tightly enough, you should not need to use glue to hold the cotton in place.

11. Attach the mouth. Cut a small piece of pink pipe cleaner out and glue it to the cotton at the front of the face.

The pink pipe cleaner should roughly match the diameter of the cardboard tube.

Bend the pipe cleaner into a slight curve to give the cow a smile.

Use glue to attach the pipe cleaner to the bottom half of the cotton at the front of the face.

12. Add a tail. Cut a small length of white yarn. Use glue to attach one end to the top of the cardboard body at the back of the cow.

The tail should be at least as long as the diameter of the tube, if not a little longer.

13. Observe your work. The cardboard cow is finished and ready to admire.

Things You'll Need.

2 empty toilet paper rolls OR 1 empty paper towel roll,Empty egg carton,Pencil,Scissors,White paint,Black paint,Pink paint,Paintbrush,Cotton balls,Glue,2 googly craft eyes,Pink pipe cleaner,White yarn,

Desember 01, 2019

how to creating a paper cartoon puppet dino

How to Creating a Paper Cartoon Puppet Dino.

With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.

Steps.

1. Glue a sheet of green construction paper to a piece of thin cardboard. This will make your dinosaur nice and sturdy. If you don’t have any green construction paper, paint the cardboard with green acrylics or poster paint. Let the glue or paint dry before moving on.

The thin cardboard from cereal and snack boxes works great for this!

If you don’t have thin cardboard or construction paper, try green cardstock instead. You can also use poster paper, but you’ll need to paint it.

2. Draw and cut the body, head, tail, and leg shapes from the paper. Look up coloring book or cartoon pictures of long-necked dinosaurs, then break it down into separate body parts. Draw these separately with a pen or pencil, then cut them out. Here are the basic shapes you’ll need.

A long stem with an oval-shaped head, like a brontosaurus or apatosaurus.

A long, tapering tail, like a skinny triangle.

2 rectangular legs.

A mound- or lump- shaped body, like a semicircle but with rounded bottom corners.

3. Make spikes for the dino's back using paper and cardboard if desired. Glue the paper to the cardboard first (or paint the cardboard). Let the paint or glue dry, then draw 4 to 5 triangular spikes. Cut them out, then set them aside.

Use a different color of paint or paper for this. Orange is a great choice, but a lighter or darker shade of green will also work.

You can also make smaller rectangles for nails.

4. Use a pen to poke a hole in the ends of each limb. Make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) away from the center of each edge. A pen or pencil will work just fine for a cardstock dino, but if you used thin cardboard, use a nail to make the holes instead.

You’ll need holes in the following areas: base of the neck, base of the tail, and the top of each leg.

Don’t use a hole punch. The hole will be too big and the brad will fall through.

If you're a child, ask an adult to help you with this step, especially if you're using a nail.

5. Poke 4 holes in the body so that you can secure the limbs. Make 2 holes along the wider, flatter, bottom edge of the body. Poke another set of holes on the sides of the body for the tail and legs. As with the limbs, make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) from the edges.

Don’t poke the neck and tail holes too close to the top; make them closer to the bottom so that your dinosaur has a humped back.

Don’t place the legs too close together. Keep them closer to the bottom corners of the body.

6. Use brads to secure the limbs behind the dinosaur's body. Stick a brad through the front of the neck hole on the body. Slide the neck piece onto the back of the prong, behind the body. Pry open the back of the brad, then press the prongs flat against the back of the dinosaur.

Repeat this step for the tail and both legs. Always add the limbs to the back of the body, not the front.

Make sure that the limbs are facing up as well, otherwise your dinosaur won’t match!

Brad prongs can hurt if they get under your nail. Consider using a butter knife to pry them apart.

7. Glue the spikes to the back of the dinosaur. Flip the dinosaur over so that you can see the back. Draw a line of glue along its back, then add the triangular spikes. Make sure that the flat bases are touching the dinosaur's back while the pointy tips are sticking out.

If you made nails for the dino, glue them to the bottom of each leg.

White school glue and glue sticks will work just fine for this. Hot glue is not recommended because it's too bulky.

8. Give the dinosaur a face. Here is where you can get a little creative. For a simple dinosaur, use a black marker to draw an eye and mouth. For a fancier dinosaur, use hot glue or white school glue to attach a googly eye to the dinosaur's face.

Give your dinosaur more character by adding eyebrows or eyelashes.

Tips.

Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!

Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.

Things You'll Need.

Green construction paper, Orange construction paper, Glue stick, Thin cardboard, 4 brads, Pen or nail, Scissors, White school glue (optional), Googly eye (optional).

Desember 25, 2019

how to make a walnut mouse

How to Make a Walnut Mouse.

The mouse has long been considered a delightful creature for the purposes of portrayal in art and craft. This walnut mouse is cute, easy-to-make and can be used for school fundraising or art projects.

Steps.

1. Trace the base of the walnut half onto cardboard. Draw around it again to make your template.

2. Place the cardboard template on a scrap of fabric. Trace out the fabric following this template, and allow for an additional 1 centimeter (0.4 in). Cut out the shape.

3. To attach the fabric to the base of the mouse:

Spread glue over the cardboard piece. Stick the piece of fabric to it, keeping the 1 centimeter (0.4 in) edge around it.

Snip around this edge of the fabric at regular intervals, making tiny slits.

Glue all of the slits firmly around the cardboard, to create a neat edge. Leave to dry completely.

4. To attach the fabric/cardboard base to walnut mouse body:

Spread the glue around the bottom edge of the walnut.

Gently match the cardboard side to the glue walnut edges, fabric side facing outward. Glue the fabric cardboard base to the walnut, slit edges facing into the walnut.

As you attach the base, be sure to slip in the tail and sandwich it between the cardboard base and one end of the walnut base.

Allow to dry.

5. Create the mouse face. For the face:

Cut out two small triangles from the felt for ears. Fold each triangle in half and glue at the base. Then glue either side of the walnut where you've decided the head is.

Glue the goggle eyes where the eyes should be (below the ears).

Glue on a nose. Either glue a small bead on the tip or roll up a small ball of cotton thread and glue in place.

6. To finish off, tie a tiny bow on the end of the mouse's tail. If this proves too difficult, make a bow and glue it in place.

7. Allow to dry before placing mouse on display. If you like the look of this mouse, make it a companion or two.

Tips.

This is a great craft fair, fete or gala toy to make for elementary age children.

A magnet can be glued to the back of this for an easy fridge magnet.

Warnings.

Not suitable as a toy for children under three or for pets, owing to small pieces.

Nut toys may not be suitable for those with severe nut allergies.

Things You'll Need.

Walnut shells, halved (one half per mouse), Small scraps of fabric, Small scraps of cardboard.

Fibre fill (or use scraps), Small ribbon, Goggle eyes (self adhering or glue on), Felt scraps.

String or ribbon (for tail), Tiny item for nose, such as bead, rolled up cotton, Glue.

Desember 02, 2019