How to Decorating a Book Cover with Craft Materials.
When your favorite book is starting to look a little worn around the edges, or you’re in the mood to give the cover a makeover, try making your own book cover or creating a special cover using craft supplies. Or, if your used book is ready to be donated or replaced, don’t get rid of it just yet. You can easily repurpose old book pages into a beautiful paper wreath to decorate your home or office.
1. Choose colors and patterns for your book cover. Everyone might have unique design preferences, but there are some helpful color design guidelines to follow. Use complementary colors, such as blue and orange, yellow and purple, or red and green for a vibrant design. For a monochromatic or minimalist look, try using one color in various shades and patterns. Use analogous colors (colors close to each other on a color wheel) such as blue-violet, blue, and blue-green.
2. Use washi tape to create a design. You can use washi tape to easily create diagonal, vertical or horizontal stripes of different colors and patterns. You can also form patterns like checkerboard, chevron or herringbone. Or you can make fun designs representing your interests and hobbies, like writing, video games or animals.
3. Form a collage of stickers or pictures. This is an easy way to customize your book cover. Place stickers where you’d like them on your book cover or tape or glue small pictures to the cover. Slightly overlapping the stickers or pictures will create a collage effect, and you can continue to add more as you get them.
For a cool effect, cut pictures into shapes first, then affix them to your book cover in an interesting pattern.
4. Keep customizing with a reusable chalkboard cover. If you’re using a brown paper bag book cover, dress it up by gluing a chalkboard vinyl rectangle to the front cover. Use this space to count down days until a special occasion, like graduation; to label your book with your name; or to jot down quick notes on the cover.
Warnings.
Be careful when using the craft knife to cut your book cover.
Do not leave a hot glue gun unattended. Be sure to turn it off and unplug it after use.
Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.
Prepping the Wood.
Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.
Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.
Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.
It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.
Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.
Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.
Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4
Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.
Painting and Sealing the Wood.
Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.
You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.
Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.
Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.
Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.
Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.
Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.
Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.
Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.
If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.
Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.
Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.
If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.
If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.
Trying Other Techniques.
Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.
Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.
You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.
You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.
Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.
If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.
If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.
Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.
The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.
Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.
Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.
Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.
You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.
Tips.
You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.
Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!
It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.
You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.
Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.
Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.
Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.
You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.
Warnings.
Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.
Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.
Things You'll.
Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).
There are lots of ways to make a homemade cooler using readily available insulating materials. Using a lidded box, foil, and recycled packaging materials, you can make a small, simple cooler. For a larger, more effective design, line a cardboard box with foam board. If you need something more portable, you could also sew an insulated lunch bag to keep items cold when you’re on the go.
Steps.
Select waterproofing, insulating, and outer materials. Use waterproof material for the innermost layer, insulating material for the middle layer, and a fabric you find attractive for the outer layer.
Laminated cotton, PUL lining, and vinyl are your best options for waterproof materials. If you want to stick with recycled materials, you could use a plastic tablecloth or a plastic shower curtain.
Thermal batting, which you can find at a craft or fabric store, is the best insulating material. If you're on a budget, you can recycle thin flexible foam or bubble wrap. Thin craft foam or packing foam might work, but the lunch bag will be stiffer.
Pick a durable, easy-to-clean material for the outer layer, like canvas or denim.
Make 3 rectangles made of each material. For each material, cut a 10 by 26 1⁄2 in (25 by 67 cm) rectangle. Then cut a pair of 6 1⁄2 by 10 in (17 by 25 cm) rectangles.
You should have 1 large and 2 smaller rectangles made of each of the 3 materials, or 9 total rectangles.
Baste the insulation to the outer fabric. Spread the outer fabric rectangles flat on your work surface. Spray a small of amount of fabric adhesive around the edges, corners, and center of the outer fabric, line up a corresponding piece of thermal batting over it, then press the fabric and batting together.
Repeat the steps to baste the other 2 sets of fabric and batting rectangles.
Look for spray adhesive online or at craft and fabric stores.
Spray basting is the easiest method of attaching the batting to the outer fabric. You could also hold them together by pinning them 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from the edges.
Pin 1 side panel of the outer material to the main section. Spread out the large rectangular section of basted outer material with the right side, or outer fabric, facing up. Then lay a smaller rectangle of basted outer material over the large rectangle with the right side down. Align the upper left edges of both rectangles, and pin together their left long edges.
Weave the pins into the fabric rectangles 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) from the edges.
Make sure the long and short sides of the rectangles are aligned. Position the rectangles so their short sides are at the top and bottom and the long sides are at the left and right.
Sew the pinned edges of the side and main panels. Stitch down the pinned sides of the panels 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the edges. Begin at the top corner and work your way down the long side. Stop 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) away from the bottom left corner of the side panel.
Use this 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) seam allowance, or the distance between the stitch line and the edge of the fabric, for all of this project’s stitches.
Pin the second side panel to the main body. Set the second panel over the main body with the outer fabric facing down. Align the upper right corners of the main panel and second side piece, and pin down their long sides on the right.
Stitch together the second side panel and main body. Sew along the pinned right edges of the main and side panels. Stop when you're 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) above the side panel's bottom right corner. The result should be a mirror image of the sewed left side panel.
Remember to use a seam allowance of 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm).
Pin the remaining edges to form a bag shape. Lift the left side panel up straight so it’s perpendicular to the main panel. Fold up the main panel to align its bottom left corner with the top right corner of the left side panel. Pin the panels together from the side panel’s top right corner to its bottom right corner.
Repeat the steps to line the right panel’s top left corner with the main panel’s bottom right corner.
Stitch along the pinned edges. Sew the left side panel to the main panel along the pinned edge. Stop 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the bottom edge of the side panel at its bottom right corner. Then sew the right side panel to the main panel along the pinned edges.
You should now have a rough bag shape with an open top and unstitched bottom. The long sides of both side panels should now be entirely stitched to the main panel.
Stitch around the bag’s base to flatten the bottom. Sew the bottoms of the side panels' short sides to the main panel. After sewing each short side, sew additional stitch lines down the bottom of the bag’s long sides to create a flat bottom.
All of the bag’s edges should now be stitched except for its top opening.
Repeat the process to create the waterproof lining. Lay a side panel of waterproof material over the large waterproof rectangle, and align their upper left corners. Stitch together the panels’ left sides, then stitch the right side of the other panel to the main body’s right side. Fold up the main body to bring its bottom corners to the side panels’ top corners, then stitch the edges to create a rough bag shape.
Finish by stitching around the bottom edges of the waterproof lining to flatten the bottom.
Slip the outer cover into the inner lining. Keep the inner lining right-side out, and turn the outer cover inside-out. Then slide the outer cover into the inner lining.
The two pieces should fit together snugly. Line up all 4 edges around the opening, and make sure the stitched edges of the side panels are aligned.
Sew around all 4 top edges. Pin or clip the top edges of the outer bag and liner. Stitch all around the top edge to attach the liner to the outer cover.
Again, use a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) seam allowance.
Overlap your beginning and ending stitches to help secure the thread.
Turn the cooler right-side out. With the outer and inner layers now attached, reach into the bag’s opening. Pull up the bottom, and flip all of the material right-side out.
The right side of the outer cover should now be visible from the outside. When you peek inside the cooler, you should be able to see the waterproof layer.
Add 1 more stitch line where the lining meets the outer fabric. Find the ditch, or the line where the waterproof liner meets the outer fabric. Stitch a line directly into the ditch all around the bag’s opening.
This last stitch will help stiffen the opening and hold the lining and outer fabric together.
Add Velcro or magnetic strips to close the bag. Use fabric adhesive or a hot glue gun to add Velcro, magnets, or snaps to the insides of the bag’s long edge. To close the bag, pinch the sides inward, then seal the Velcro, magnets, or snaps.
There you have it! Enjoy your new handmade insulated lunch bag!
Things You'll Need.
Insulated Lunch Bag.
1 yd (0.91 m) thermal batting.
1 yd (0.91 m) waterproof liner.
1 yd (0.91 m) outer fabric of your choice, such as canvas or denim.
Balls provide endless entertainment for kids and adults alike, so make your own if you want a fun toy to play with this weekend. But there are balls for other occasions, too. If you’re having a rough week, for instance, create a stress ball to squeeze when you just want to scream. Or get creative and make balls out of things like rubber bands, fabric, and even cheese!
Method 1 Making a Bouncy Ball.
1. Combine school glue, cornstarch, and any add-ins in a bowl. Stir together the 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch until they’re thoroughly combined, using a spoon or wooden stick. If you want to add any extras, like food coloring or glitter, do so now.
You can use either white or clear school glue. If you use white glue and don’t add any coloring, your ball will be white.
Fun Add-Ins for Your Bouncy Ball
Sprinkle in glitter for a little extra sparkle.
Squeeze in a few drops of food coloring to make a ball in your favorite hue.
Stir glow in the dark paint into the glue for a ball that can be used at night.
Swirl 2 colors of food coloring together if you want a multi-colored masterpiece.
2. Stir warm water and Borax together in a separate bowl. Mix 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water and 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax until the Borax is completely dissolved. Stir vigorously to ensure there are no clumps of powder left in the bowl.
Heat the water in the microwave or on the stove until it’s warm to the touch. It shouldn’t be boiling.
You can find Borax in the laundry aisle of a store.
Borax is safe to use, but it's poisonous if ingested in large quantities. If you or your child get it in your eyes or mouth, contact poison control immediately.
3. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of the Borax mixture in the bowl with the glue. Do not stir the ingredients together when you add them. Simply pour the Borax and water into the other bowl containing the glue and cornstarch.
Set aside the remaining Borax mixture if you plan on making more balls.
4. Let the mixture sit for 15 seconds. This allows time for the Borax to react with the glue, making the polymers of the glue link together which will create the ball shape. If you start stirring right away, the bouncy ball may not form or harden properly.
Set a kitchen timer or use the clock app on your phone to keep track of the time.
5. Use a spoon to combine the ingredients until they’re too thick to stir. Within 1 to 2 minutes, the mixture will thicken. Stir vigorously while the mixture is still liquid to make sure the ingredients are blended well.
Choose a sturdy spoon, like a metal or thick plastic one. Something flimsy, like a plastic spoon, will likely break off in the goo.
If you’ve made homemade slime with Borax, this process is very similar.
6. Remove the mixture and roll it between your hands to form a ball. Once the mixture is too thick for your spoon or stick, pull it out of the bowl and place it between your palms. Roll it around by moving your hands in circular motions until the ball is no longer sticky.
The more you handle the ball, the more firm it will become.
If you’re having trouble getting rid of the stickiness, dip the ball in the Borax water, then roll it a little more. This should remove any tacky texture.
7. Let the ball harden for about 10 to 20 minutes before you use it. This dries the ball a little more, so that it’s extra bouncy. If the ball starts to flatten while it sits, simply roll it back into shape when you’re ready to play with it.
Once you’re done playing, store the ball in an airtight container to prevent it from drying out. Keep it in a cool, dark place, like the pantry.
If stored properly, your ball could last for up to 6 months. It won’t go bad, but it will dry out eventually.
To make more bouncy balls, mix up another batch of glue and cornstarch and use some of the leftover Borax and water mixture.
Things You'll Need.
2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water, 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch.
Spoon or wooden stick, 2 cups or small bowls, Food coloring or other add-ins (optional), Airtight container (optional).
Method 2 Creating a Paper Soccer Ball.
1. Trace 20 hexagons on white paper, then cut them out. Draw your hexagons on the paper with a template, making each side the exact same length. Use scissors to carefully cut along the traced shapes, then set them aside.
If you want a life-sized soccer ball, make the edges 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.
To make a template, use a ruler to draw the hexagon shape on a piece of cardboard. Cut it out and trace around it with a pencil to make each paper hexagon.
Cardstock is the best type of paper to use for this craft. It’s sturdy enough to hold the shape of the ball yet still easy to fold.
2. Trace and cut out 12 black pentagons with sides the same length. The edges of the black and white pieces need to be equal so that they fit together properly. Use a template to draw your pentagon shapes, then cut them out with scissors.
For example, if you’re creating a life-sized ball, make your pentagon sides 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.
You can use a different color paper instead of black, or get creative and make a multi-colored ball with a variety of shades.
Cut a pentagon template out of cardboard to trace on the black paper so that the pieces are all equal size.
3. Fold up a thin border around each hexagon and pentagon. This edge will allow you to build your ball seamlessly, so there are no gaps between pieces. You only want to fold enough of each edge to have a place to apply glue or tape. Keep the border size equal on each piece so they all remain the same size after folding.
To fold the same border on each piece, trace the border before you fold, using a ruler to ensure each edge is an equal width.
Use a straight edge, like a ruler, to help you fold the edges in a perfect line.
If the edges are crooked, re-fold them. They have to be straight for your ball to be the right shape.
To make folding easier, snip off the corners of your border before you fold. This allows you to fold the edges up without dealing with corners that crumple up or stick out.
4. Apply glue or tape to the folded edges of each piece. This is how you’ll stick the the pieces together to form the ball. Swipe glue on each of the edges of all the hexagons and pentagons. You can also use a strip of tape on the edges instead.
A glue stick will work better than liquid glue to prevent the paper edges from getting soggy.
If you are slow at putting the ball together, you may want to apply the glue as you go, rather than all at once. Otherwise, it will dry out on the final pieces by the time you get to them.
5. Attach 5 white hexagons to 1 black pentagon. On a standard soccer ball, each black piece is completely surrounded by white pieces. Press 1 white hexagon onto each edge of a black pentagon. Hold the edges together until the glue dries.
If you’re using a glue stick, the glue will dry almost instantly. Wait about 5 to 10 seconds while pressing the edges against one another.
6. Continue gluing the pieces together in this pattern, forming the soccer ball. On the other edges of the white hexagons that you attached to the original pentagon, glue more black pentagons. Don’t forget to glue the white edges that touch each other, too. Once you connect all of the pieces, you’ll have a ball shape.
A black piece should never touch another black piece. However, white edges will touch other white edges.
If you’re having trouble visualizing the pattern, look up an image of a soccer ball online as a guide.
You can stuff the ball with shreds of paper if you want to create a fuller shape.
Things You'll Need.
Black and white sheets of paper, Scissors, Cardboard.
Pencil or pen, Glue stick or tape, Homemade Stress Ball, 12 in (30 cm) latex balloon.
Method 3 Using Play Dough for a Homemade Stress Ball.
1. Use your hands to roll play dough into a long shape. Place a pile of play dough on a flat surface, then gently roll it out with the palms of your hands. This should form what looks like a snake.
It doesn’t matter what color play dough you use, since it will just be going inside the balloon.
Buy pre-made play dough or make your own at home.
If you buy play dough, use one 5 oz (140 g) container per balloon.
2. Insert the play dough into the balloon. Stretch the neck of the balloon open as wide as you can, then stuff the play dough snake into the balloon. The play dough should fill the balloon just to the base of the neck.
If there is a lot of empty space in the balloon, add more play dough.
Stretch out the neck of the balloon before you insert the play dough to loosen it up.
This step is easier if you have someone else hold the balloon open while you put the play dough inside.
3. Tie a knot in the neck at the top of the balloon to secure it. This will keep all of the play dough inside the balloon. Wrap the neck around your finger to make your knot, tying it as tightly as possible.
If you want extra protection, you can place your original balloon inside another empty balloon before tying it shut. This adds a double layer in case you poke a hole.
You can decorate your stress balls with permanent markers if you’d like. For example, you could draw a funny face or write a calming phrase, like “just breathe.”
Things You'll Need.
Permanent marker (optional).
Method 4 Forming Other Types of Balls.
1. Build a rubber band ball for a creative way to store supplies. Instead of tossing your rubber bands in a drawer, keep them together in 1 big ball. Fold up a thick rubber band to form the center, then begin wrapping all of other bands around it. Criss-cross directions often to round out the ball.
You can also wrap your bands around a bouncy ball or crumpled-up piece of paper for a larger ball.
Start with smaller rubber bands, then add the larger ones as the ball gets bigger.
2. Sew a fabric ball if you want a soft toy for kids or pets. Young children, particularly babies, could get injured by hard rubber balls. Instead, stitch together a ball out of strips of fabric, then stuff it with polyfill for a plush feel or use dried beans for a bean bag texture.
This also makes a great pet toy for dogs to chew on or for cats to bat around. If the ball is for a pet, pick a durable fabric like vinyl or nylon and keep your pet in sight as it plays with the ball.
You can use a sewing machine to make your ball or sew it by hand.
Cotton is ideal for kids’ toys since it’s a long-lasting and soft fabric that’s easy to wash.
3. Use ice to make a ball for a unique cocktail add-in. Not only do ice spheres look much cooler than regular cubes floating in your drink, they also melt slower, so your beverage doesn't get watered-down as quickly. Fill a silicone ice ball mold with water, then place it in the freezer for at least 6 hours, or until the balls have set and hardened.
For extra flair and flavor, add things like fresh herbs or edible flowers into the water in the mold before it freezes.
You can buy ice ball molds from a kitchen store or online retailer.
4. Make a cheese ball if you’re having people over for dinner or a party. When it’s your turn to play host or hostess, whip up a cheese ball as an impressive appetizer. Mix together cream cheese and other soft cheeses, shape it into a ball, then chill it in the refrigerator. Roll it in chopped nuts and other garnishes before serving.
You can substitute mascarpone, neufchatel, or goat cheese for the cream cheese if you’d like.
Pair any type of softer cheese with the creamy base, depending on your taste preferences. As long as it’s not a dry, crumbly cheese like parmesan, it will work.
Serve a cheese ball with finger foods for dipping, like crackers, pretzels, or raw veggies.
Warnings.
Borax is poisonous. Get help immediately if you accidentally ingest it or get it in your eyes.
Never let young children handle Borax without close supervision.
