If you are looking for different surfaces to stamp onto then how about trying artist's canvases. These are great for making decor for the home and canvas blocks are all the rage right now. This is a project for stampers happy to experiment with different techniques to create interesting results.
What Are Artist's Canvases?
Artist's canvases are typically pieces of linen or cotton canvas on which artists paint. There are two types which are commonly used, canvas board or panels, where the canvas is stretched over a piece of board. This gives a firm flat surface for stamping.
The other type is stretched canvas. These are pieces of canvas that are stretched over a wooden frame which creates a taut surface. Canvases of either type are available in a wide range of sizes, from tiny canvases through to canvases that take up an entire wall. There are a variety of different qualities of canvas available and art stores will have the biggest range on offer.
About the Surface for Stamping
The canvas surface is woven and as such it is more textured than normal cardstock. This is one of the features of the canvas which makes it a little different and interesting to work on. Note that this texture will mean that some detail in a very intricate stamped image may get lost. You will also notice that some canvases are sold as primed, others are not primed. A primed surface means that it has been treated ready for painting. Both surfaces can be stamped on, however, the inks will be absorbed by the surface of the untreated canvas and may need heat sealing on treated canvas. It is best to experiment with both types and see which gives you the results you prefer.
Where to Buy
You will find stretch canvases for sale in artists supply stores. You will also find them in craft stores and even some stationery stores as well as online.
How to Use
While you can stamp onto canvas panels with relative ease, stamping on stretch canvas presents some significant challenges, not least the fact that the canvas surface, while taut, has some movement and therefore it is difficult to stamp onto in the traditional manner. However you can achieve good results by placing the inked stamp, image side up and carefully pressing the canvas, top side down, onto the stamp. Then carefully rub over the back of the canvas to make sure the inked image is transferred from the stamp to the canvas. To use this method, your stamp must be smaller than the recess at the back of the stretch canvas.
Ink for Stamping
Unlike stamping on canvas or fabric which is going to be worn or may need regular laundry care, canvas panels are purely decorative, therefore there is no need to use fabric ink when you stamp on canvas panels. The type of ink you use depends on the results you want to achieve, however, good thick pigment inks are a great choice although they may need sealing with a heat gun. Permanent ink such as Stazon and Ranger Archival inks are also a great choice.
Mistakes
While artist's canvases are more expensive than normal paper or cardstock, you don't need to worry that all is lost if you make a mistake. If you make a mistake, simply get some white acrylic paint and paint over the image. Leave the paint to dry and when it is dry, start again!
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Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.
Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.
Not Reading the Instructions
Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.
Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric
Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.
Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle
Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.
Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle
Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.
Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots
Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.
Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness
Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.
Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread
Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.
Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen
It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.
Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils
Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.
Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted
When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.
Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame
Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.
Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction
Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).
Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing
Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.
Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting
Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.
Getting Your Project Dirty
Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.
Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type
If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.
Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching
You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.
Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly
Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.
Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight
Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.
Rushing to Fix a Mistake
If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.
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Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. This is a simple snake that you can make out of a paper plate. It lays flat on your table, but springs up into a long snake when you hang it! Here's a list of what you will need:
Paper plate, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, spongers, etc, Pencil or pen, Scissors, Crayons, markers, or googly eyes.
Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, String, thumbtack, hole punch (optional), Rhinestones, glitter, etc (optional).
2. Cut off the raised edge of a paper plate. Be sure not to go too far into the middle or else it may not be big enough.
If you don't have a paper plate, use a small plate to trace a circle onto a large sheet of paper. Cut the circle out using a pair of scissors, and use that circle instead.
3. Paint or decorate the paper plate. You can paint the snake however you want. You can use a paintbrush, a sponge, or even your fingers. Snakes come in many different colors and patterns. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Paint the plate a solid color and let the paint dry. Next, dip a sponge into a different color and tap the excess paint off onto a paper towel. Then, dab the sponge all over the plate. If you want to add another color, wait for the first one to dry. This will give you a scale-like effect.
Wrap a sheet of bubble wrap (bubble-side-out) around a rolling pin and secure it with tape. Pour two colors of paint onto a palette and gently roll the pin across. Next, roll the pin across the plate. You will get a scale effect.
You can also color the other side of the plate to make the snake's belly. Most snakes have a plain, light colored belly. Do this once the top of the snake dries.
4. Draw a spiral on the back of the plate. Make the spiral about half an inch thick. It doesn't have to be perfect, but try to make it even all the way around. The center of the spiral will be the snake's head, so make it rounded.
You are drawing the spiral on the back so that you won't see it on the top.
5. Cut out the spiral shape. Start front the outside of the spiral, and work your way in. Try to do this right on the line, because you don't want the line to show on the finished product.
6. Add more decorations to the snake. At this point, you can paint on some extra designs to make your snake even more special. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Paint thick stripes across the spiral to make a striped snake, Paint Xs or diamond shapes across the spiral to make a diamond pattern.
Glue some colorful rhinestones using white school glue or tacky glue. Try not to add too many, or your snake will be too heavy.
Make some squiggles and patterns on the snake using white glue. Then, shake some glitter onto the glue. Tap off the excess glitter and let the glue dry.
7. Add the eyes onto the front of the head. You can draw the eyes on using a marker or crayons. You can also paint the eyes on. If you have googly eyes at home, you can glue them on using white school glue or tacky glue.
Remember, the head is the rounded part in the middle of the spiral.
8. Add the tongue. Cut a thin 1 to 2 inch (2.54 to 5.08) long rectangle out of red paper. You can also use a piece of thin, red ribbon. Cut a V shape into one end of the rectangle. This will be the snake's forked tongue. Lift the head up and glue the tongue under it.
9. Punch a hole through the snake if you want to hang it. You can punch the hole at the end of the tail, right between the eyes, or even in the tongue. Thread a piece of string through the hole and tie it in a knot. Use the other end of the string to hang the snake from a door knob, a stick, or even a thumbtack in the wall.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Do not let these snakes to get wet.
Adult supervision is required for cutting steps.
Things You'll Need.
Paper plate, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, spongers, etc, Pencil or pen, Scissors, Crayons, markers, or googly eyes, Red paper or ribbon.
White school glue or tacky glue, String, thumbtack, hole punch (optional), Rhinestones, glitter, etc (optional).
A craft room is a place where you want to let your creative energies take over. Organizing your craft room will take some work but the end result is worth the effort. You will want to start by gathering and sorting all of your available craft supplies. Then, find places to store these items where they will be easy to grab and use in the midst of a project. Use organizing as an opportunity to display those items that inspire you as well.
Method 1 Sorting Your Craft Supplies.
1. Gather all of your craft items. Grab a basket and walk throughout your living space grabbing any and all craft supplies and tools. Carry them into your designated craft room and place everything in the middle of the floor. Once you think that you’ve gotten it all, go back through one more time just to be certain. Make sure to open all of your drawers and cabinets, as craft supplies can often ‘hide.’
Likewise, go through your craft room and identify any objects or items that do not belong there and move them out. They may need to go in a ‘staging area’ in another room, so that you can concentrate your energy on your craft area.
2. Sort your supplies out according to item type. Look over your supply pile and begin to build smaller piles based upon different categories of supplies. For example, put all of your wrapping paper together. All fabrics should go together initially. After these first piles are finished, you can go back through them and narrow them even further according to size and color. For example, put all of the red wrapping paper together.
At this point your room may be in controlled chaos, so be careful walking around or you may slip on one of your piles. For that reason, try to keep other people out of the room as well, at least during this stage.
To keep you from feeling overwhelmed, bring an egg timer into the room and set it for 15-minutes. When the timer goes off, take a 5-minute break. Then, re-set the timer and start again. This will keep you motivated to work at a steady pace without burning out.
3. Decide what to donate. As you sort, identify items that are worth donating. Perhaps you have multiples of some items or maybe leftover supplies from projects that you’ve completed and moved on from. Make sure that whatever you donate is safe for another user. For example, don’t donate rusty scissors or any cracked glass items.
Various charity organizations, schools, and libraries will gladly accept donations of craft supplies as long as they are in good condition. This is a great opportunity to share your interest in crafting with other people.
Depending on the amount of items that you have, some charities will actually come to your house and pick them up for you. This may be a good opportunity to do organize other areas of your home as well.
4. Create a trash pile and dispose of it. As you sort, identify items that need to be thrown away. This could be items that you no longer find useful, but that aren’t suitable for donation due to condition or quantity. You should also trash any supplies that are no good anymore, such as dried out glue or frayed ribbons. Ask yourself if you’ve used the item in the past year and if you haven’t odds are it needs to be thrown away or donated.
Take the trash out after you’ve finished sorting the main pile. If you wait you are likely to leave it there and it will become an eyesore and will slow your organizing progress.
5. Repeat this process every few weeks. As life goes on, many of your supplies will likely wander out of your craft space once more. To keep your area tidy and useful for you, go through a sorting and cleaning process fairly often, especially after completing a major project.
Also, devote at least ten minutes after you finish working in your craft room for picking up and storing items in their new proper places. Devoting even this small amount of time can make a major difference in the long-term appearance of your craft room.
Method 2 Implementing a Storage System.
1. Store similar items together. You’ll want to keep your supplies together in their sorted piles as you place them in their designated storage spots and containers. Extra-small items will need to be placed in extra-small containers and will probably be grouped together for storage and then usage.
Keep an eye out for items that may appear similar but that have slightly different functions. These situations may require that you divide up your storage system even further. For example, you’ll want to divide your fabric scissors from your paper scissors.
2. Use plastic bins. These are the number one storage option when organizing a craft room. They come in a wide variety of sizes and are easy to stack. They also fit well within a cube shelf. You can see inside the clear bins, making it easy to find an item that you are looking for.
Depending on how you arrange your bins, you will want to purchase ones that open on the top or via a front panel. Look for lids that snap on tightly to avoid spilling your supplies.
Bins are also especially useful when working with messy items such as paints. In addition, they contain fumes from paints as well.
Make sure to purchase extra bins, and to leave space in the ones that you currently use, for new supplies that you may purchase.
3. Arrange items by color. Store and display your craft supplies according to the color wheel. This will create a quick way for you to find an item that you need for a particular project. It will also lead to beautiful displays of items within the room itself. For example, if you have a bunch of balls of yarn, sort them according to color (reds next to orange tints, etc.) and place them in a wooden cube bookcase for quick access and visual appeal.
4. Repurpose materials as storage containers. Almost any container that is sturdy with a lid can be reused as storage in your craft room. Try to think creatively and find jars, buckets, etc. that you find visually appealing already. They will be even more attractive when holding your supplies.
Here are a few unique ideas. To house smaller items such as sequins, use little plastic pill storage boxes that you can get at a pharmacy or grocery store. For colored beads, place them in a spice rack by color for ease of access and beauty. Small tins or colored buckets make a great storage option for pens, pencils, and paintbrushes.
For a more industrial look, grab a magnetic knife holder from your kitchen, attach it to the wall of your craft room, and use it to display your sharp cutting devices and scissors. This works best when positioned close to your standing work area.
Look at crafting sites and blogs online or buy inspirational craft books/magazines in order to find additional design ideas that may suit your particular space and taste.
5. Label everything. This is especially important when storing items in plastic bins or opaque containers. As you put away every storage container, make sure that it has a clear and visible label that you can see from the center of your craft room. For example, the bin with tape should say, “Tape-clear.”
You can get as fancy as you’d like with the labels. Some people prefer to use a standard label maker while others print directly from online templates. You can even make your own labels by hand.
6. Install shelving. You want to get the most use out of all surfaces within your room, so don’t ignore the walls. Look around your craft room and consider adding shelves to many of the open spaces on the walls. Think creatively about shelving and use materials such as recycled bookcase shelves or even old metal signs repurposed as shelves.
Method 3 Organizing Your Space for Creative Inspiration.
1. Locate your work table for ease of access. Get a sturdy table that you’d feel comfortable working on and place it in the most convenient space in the room, usually right in the middle. You want to be able to access it from all sides. Consider adding a chair or stool, unless you plan to stand all of the time when crafting.
In addition to your main table, you may want another one placed against the wall that will almost act like a workbench. You can hang items on the wall next to it for quick grabbing access.
2. Keep your favorite supplies close by. The materials that you are using for a current project, or those that you consistently rely upon, should be placed close to your table workspace. For example, if you are a seamstress, do not hide your best pair of cutting shears in a labeled storage bin in the closet.
3. Emphasize the natural light when possible. If you have a choice of room, pick a room with ample light sources. This will help to save you from eye strain as you work on your projects. You can also supplement the light by adding interesting (and bright) lamps. Hanging lamps often work the quite well as they are out of the way.
4. Create an inspiration board. Pin up photos or drawings to a fabric-covered poster board. Or, hang a magnetic board on your wall and attach items to it. Clip or write down quotes that you like and attach them to the board. Let it keep growing until you feel the need to remove some items into storage. This can be a fairly chaotic, but inspirational space, in an another organized room.
To add even more visual appeal, use colorful and creative stick-pins to attach items to the board. You can even go with pieces of patterned tape too.
5. Decorate with beautiful craft items. If you love your yarn, don’t hide it, display it. As you sort out items at the start of this process, look for those supplies that you find particularly visually stunning or exciting. Try to create spaces out in the open to store these items. For example, lengths of ribbon can be stored and displayed by hanging a peg board on the wall.
6. Create more access by manipulating your space. Don’t be afraid to use every inch of your craft room for some storage, display, or work purpose. You can paint inspirational quotes on the ceiling and hang items from it too. You can go vertical up the walls and increase your reach by employing footstools. Typically neglected areas, such as the backs of doors, can be put to good use with hanging storage pouches.
Increase your visibility in closet spaces by removing the doors and replacing them with a rod and curtain. When you first enter your room, sweep aside the curtain and you’ve got instant access and visibility into this space.
Tips.
You might want to do an inventory as you sort and organize, in order to determine what supplies you need to reorder.
Warnings.
Think about design and utility, but also safety. If you will have kids in your craft room, watch how you display sharp tools, etc.
How to Make a Paper Snake Using Toilet Paper Rolls.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. If you have any spare toilet paper rolls laying around, you can turn them into a fun, wiggly snake using a bit of paint and string. Here's a list of what you will need:
3 – 4 toilet paper rolls, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, Scissors, Yarn, Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes, Hole punch.
2. Gather three to four toilet paper rolls. If you cannot find that many toilet paper rolls, you can use some paper towel rolls instead.
3. Use scissors to cut each toilet paper roll in half. If you are using paper towel rolls, cut them into thirds.
4. Paint the toilet paper rolls and let them dry. You can paint them all one color. You can also paint each roll a different color. If you want to add patterns and designs, wait for the paint to dry first.
5. Choose two rolls to be your head and tail tip and set them aside. You don't want them to get mixed up with the body of the snake.
6. Punch four holes in each body piece. There will be two holes on the top, and two holes on the bottom. The holes need to be straight across from each other. Make sure that the top and bottom holes on each side are aligned.
7. Punch two holes into the head and tail tip piece. The holes need to be straight across from each other.
8. Cut some yarn into 5 inch (12.7 centimeters) long pieces. You will need enough pieces to tie the rolls together.
9. Tie the pieces together using the yarn. Don't tie the yarn too tight, or the snake won't be able to wiggle. There should be a gap between each piece. Try to hide the knot inside the snake.
10. Add the tongue. Cut a long, skinny rectangle from a piece of red paper and cut a V shape into on end. You can also use a piece of red ribbon. Glue the flat end inside the snake's head. Make sure that it is in the middle of the mouth.
If you want your snake to have a closed mouth, ask an adult to staple the end of the roll shut, right over the tongue.
11. Add the eyes. You can draw the eyes on using a crayon or marker. You can also paint them on. If you have any googly eyes at home, you can glue them on using white school glue or tacky glue.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Do not let these snakes to get wet.
Adult supervision is required for cutting steps.
Things You'll Need.
3 – 4 toilet paper rolls, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, Scissors, Yarn, Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes, Hole punch.
Adding a beautiful piece of art to a room is the last layer of decoration that every home needs. But a framed piece can be pricey. Instead of shelling out money for a print or painting, why not frame a gorgeous piece of fabric instead? Not only will fabric add color and pattern to a room, but it also lends personality. Plus, varying the textures in a gallery wall will add interest and depth to the space.
You can use a favorite piece of fabric that has been passed down in your family or simply a pattern that caught your eye at the fabric store. Either way, it's a great way to display a beautiful textile. Hang one of these prints on your wall as soon as possible! This is an easy project that takes less than an hour to complete.
Gather Your Materials
Small canvas
Fabric
Scissors
Hot glue
Iron
Cloth tape (optional)
Choose Your Fabric
Once you've selected your fabric, make sure it's large enough to fit around your canvas. While you can opt to use a more traditional picture frame, the canvas is a really easy way to complete this project while still showing off the texture of the fabric.
Cut the fabric to the size of the canvas, leaving at least 1 inch of extra fabric around all of the edges.
Note: If the fabric is vintage or heirloom, you can leave it as is. Don't cut or glue and simply pin it to the canvas instead.
Smooth the Fabric
If needed, gently iron the fabric to remove any deep creases. Then, stretch the fabric over the canvas and secure it using dabs of hot glue on the back frame of the canvas. You want to pull the fabric taut, but not so much so that it's going to release and look saggy when you're done gluing.
Attach the Fabric
If the fabric is delicate and you don't want to cut and glue it, put pins at each end and each side to secure it. Just be sure to pull the fabric taut as you go, so you don't end up with any weird wrinkles. If you aren't emotionally attached to the fabric, follow these steps to finish off the back of the frame.
There will be excess fabric at the top and bottom of the canvas, so to handle it in a way that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, you're going to want to fold and glue the fabric to the canvas in a similar way that you'd finish wrapping a present. It will look finished and pretty once you're done.
Find a Place for It
Place the canvas art wherever you'd like. Add it to the top of your bookshelf or hang it on the wall. If you easily grow tired of decor, the beauty of this project—if the fabric isn't an heirloom or vintage piece—is that you can simply rip it off the canvas and start over!
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More often than not, cats can be found lounging in the sun or snoozing the day away. But don’t let them fool you—they love to play. Cats love climbing, chasing, and jumping just as much as any other pet.
But all the climbing and scratching can lead to wear and tear. Instead of sacrificing your beloved couch or armchair, find some enriching toys to give your feline to keep them happy and healthy. That way, everyone can live in peace.
While perusing the pet store shelves, you may notice that most toys, treats, and beds are lacking in style. For some reason, a lot of pet products are behind the curve when it comes to aesthetically pleasing design. With DIY, you can maintain your dream home’s modern decor while giving your pet everything you need.
This DIY scratching post is sure to please your furry friend. Plus, it will look great hanging on your wall! Say goodbye to boring beige cat furniture.
Gather Your Supplies
This DIY requires a few easy-to-find supplies. To make it even more budget-friendly, head to a second-hand store to find a frame. You can easily upcycle it at a low cost.
Here’s what you’ll need:
Small rug
Scissors
Measuring tape
11" x 14" picture frame
Measure and Cut Your Rug
You may not even have to head to the store to find the carpet material for this project. If you remodeled your home, you likely already have some leftover carpet in the garage.
But if not, you can find carpet samples at local carpet retailers. Or you can use an indoor/outdoor decorative rug (like the one we used), a door mat, or even a bath rug. Just be sure your material isn’t unraveled or damaged—that’s the cat’s job.
Before using your scissors to cut your carpet, use a measuring tape to measure the size of the picture frame. Then, use those measurements to cut a rectangular section of your carpet that will fit perfectly inside the picture frame. If the first try isn’t perfect, just keep trimming away.
Your regular pair of scissors will sometimes work for this, but it depends on the material you use. If it’s difficult to cut with scissors, try using sharp shears.
Secure in Frame
Once you have cut your material to match the size of your frame, it’s time to secure them together.
First, remove the sample photo and glass cover from your picture frame. These parts aren’t necessary and you can keep them for future crafts or recycle them if you have no use for them.
If your picture frame has a kickstand on the back, it may be necessary to remove it. This frame will be hung on the wall and a kickstand on the back may make it too bulky, causing it to stick out when it’s hung up.
Secure your piece of rug or carpet inside your picture frame. Be sure to apply the cardboard backing piece that came with the frame onto the back to make sure things stay in place.
Display
The moment we’ve all been waiting for is here! Now that your DIY is finished, you’ve got an adorable piece of wall decor that looks great and satisfies your kitty to no end. Every cat will appreciate this fun toy. And when it wears out, just replace the material inside to keeping things looking new.
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With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Blow up a balloon, tear newspaper into strips, and make a papier-mâché paste. Blow up a balloon to your desired size. Next, tear some newspaper into narrow strips, about 1 by 3 in (2.5 by 7.6 cm). Lastly, prepare your preferred papier-mâché glue or paste.
The most popular papier-mâché paste is just 1 part water and 1 part PVA glue (white school glue).
Start with just 1 or 2 sheets of newspaper; you can always make more strips.
Don't cut the strips, or the edges will be too sharp and create creases. Tearing them will give you a smoother finish.
2. Dip the strips into the paste, then apply them to the balloon. Run each strip of newspaper between your fingers after dipping it in the paste; this will remove any excess glue. Make sure that the strips are all going in the same direction as you apply them.
Overlap the strips a little, such as by 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm).
Keep the balloon in a cup or bowl so that it doesn't roll around. You may have to let 1 side of the balloon dry first before doing the other.
Leave a coin-sized space at one end of the balloon exposed so that you can pop the balloon later.
3. Apply 2 more layers of papier-mâché. You probably don't need to use the glue for the second layer; the wet strips already adhered to the balloon should be enough for the new ones to stick to. If the balloon starts to get too soggy, however, let it dry a bit, then continue working.
Consider using white tissue paper for as a fourth and final layer. This will give you a smoother base and help the paint show up better.
If you choose to use tissue paper, then make sure that you tear it into 3 by 1 in (7.6 by 2.5 cm) strips as well.
4. Let the strips dry overnight, then pop and remove the balloon. You may have to wait even longer than that, depending on how dry or humid it is in your home. In fact, it would be a good idea to poke your finger under the papier-mâché; if it feels wet, give it a little more time.
This completes your dinosaur's body.
Don't worry about the hole left by the balloon. You'll end up covering it with the dinosaur's head or tail.
5. Tape paper towel roll segments to the balloon for legs. Turn the papier-mâché balloon on its side, then use masking tape to secure the legs to the bottom.
Don't use clear tape; it won't stick to the papier-mâché.
You can also just cut 2 empty toilet paper rolls in half and use those instead.
6. Use cardboard, paper towel tubes, and foil to make the other limbs. Scrunch up aluminum foil into a ball to make a head, and then use aluminum foil shaped into a cone for the tail. The size and shape for each depends on what type of dinosaur that you're making, so look at some reference pictures. Here are some more ideas to get you started.
Triceratops: cut a round, scalloped shape out of cardboard for the fan. Use foil to make the horns.
Stegosaurus: cut triangles out of cardboard for the fins.
Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: use a paper towel tube to make the neck.
7. Tape the pieces to the body with masking tape. Take 1 of your pieces, and hold it against the balloon where you want it to go. Secure it with strips of masking tape until the seam is completely hidden. Again, don't use clear tape, because it won't hold.
Triceratops: tape the fan to the balloon first, then add the head (you may have to use hot glue to secure it). Finish by sticking the horns to the head.
Stegosaurus: tape or hot glue the head to 1 side of the body and the tail to the other. Use strips of tape to add the fins down the back and tail.
Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: tape the head to the long neck first, then tape the head to the body. Add the tail to the other side of the body.
8. Cover the pieces and the seams with more papier-mâché. Start by applying strips of papier-mâché to the seams. After that, cover the shapes themselves. If the pieces feel unstable, add more papier-mâché to the seams.
You may have to tear more strips of newspaper and prepare more papier-mâché paste for this.
Consider making some smaller strips for sharp curves and tight corners.
If the hole from when you removed the balloon is still visible, cover it up with more papier-mâché.
9. Wait for everything to dry. How long it will take for your project to dry really depends on what the weather is like. Papier-mâché will dry a lot faster on a hot, dry, sunny day than on a cold, wet, day. Be patient!
10. Paint the dinosaur as desired, then let the paint dry. Acrylic craft paint will work just fine for this, but you can use poster paint too. You can use realistic colors for your dinosaur, like gray, brown, and green, or you can use fantasy colors, like pink, purple, and blue.
For a nicer finish, paint the dinosaur white first, then let the paint dry. This will give you a clean "canvas" to work on.
Don't forget to add eyes and a mouth. You can paint the eyes, or glue googly eyes on instead.
How long it will take for the paint to dry will depend on what type of paint you're using. Plan to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
White school glue, Newspaper, Balloon, Cardboard, Aluminum foil, Empty toilet paper rolls, Masking tape, Acrylic paint or poster paint, Scissors.
There are lots of ways to recycle plastic soda bottles, and turning them into adorable penguins is one of them. With a little bit of paint, time, and creativity, you can turn 2 plastic soda bottles into an adorable penguin. If you have a lot of plastic soda bottles then you can create an entire penguin family!
Part 1 Assembling the Base.
1. Find 2 plastic soda bottles. The large, 2-liter (67.2-oz) bottles will work the best for this, but you can use smaller soda bottles too. Look for the kind that have the 4 bumps on the bottom. These bumps will make the feet and the hat.
The color of the bottles does not matter. You will be painting it.
2. Remove the labels and wash the bottles. Peel the labels off first, then wash the bottles inside-out with soap and warm water. Be sure to remove all sticker residue. Dry the bottles with a towel.
Wipe the bottles down with rubbing alcohol as well. This will remove any oils that might keep the paint from sticking. Let the bottles dry; this should only take a few seconds.
3. Cut the bottles in half and recycle the top sections. A craft blade will work the best for this, but you can do it with a sharp pair of scissors too. Young children should be supervised during this step.
If the cut edge is jagged, cut it smoother with a pair of scissors.
For a smaller penguin, cut the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) off of the first bottle, and cut the second bottle in half. The shorter half will make the bottom.
4. Tuck 1 bottle inside the other to make a capsule. Turn the bottles so that the cut edges are facing one another. Slide the first bottle into the second bottle by about 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). If the bottles won't fit inside one another, cut a 1⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) slit into 1 of the bottles first; place this edge on the inside.
Make sure that the 4 bumps on the top and bottom of the capsule line up.
5. Glue the bottles together, if desired. If the bottles are loose, glue them together with tacky glue or super glue. Pull the bottles apart, and paint the inside rim of 1 bottle with glue. Slide it over the other bottle.
Hot glue is not recommended because it is too bulky.
Alternatively, you can keep the bottles loose, and use the penguin as a gift box.
Part 2 Painting the Penguin.
1. Paint the entire capsule black, then let it dry. Take the capsule outside or into a well-ventilated area. Set it down on a sheet of newspaper, then coat it with black spray paint. Let the paint dry for 15 to 20 minutes, then turn the capsule over. Spray paint the bottom and let it dry completely.
Hold the can 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) from the capsule, and spray using a side-to-side motion.
If the paint is too thin, let it dry completely, then apply another coat of paint.
If you don't have spray paint, paint the capsule using black acrylic craft paint and a paintbrush.
2. Paint the penguin's face and belly white, then allow them to dry. Use a pointed paintbrush and white acrylic craft paint to outline the white face and belly of the penguin. Fill your outline in using a flat paintbrush. Let the paint dry, then add another layer if the first layer is too thin. Let the second layer dry too, if you added it.
Look at pictures of real or cartoon penguins to get ideas for the placement of the white parts.
Make sure that 2 of the bumps on the base of the capsule line up with the bottom of the penguin's belly. These are its feet!
If you are making a smaller penguin, use the shorter half to make the bottom.
3. Give the penguin a widow's peak, if desired. Use a pointed brush and black acrylic craft paint to draw a V-shape at the top of the penguin's white face. Fill the V-shape in with black paint so that it blends in with the body. For an even nicer finish, made the sides of the V-shape curved so that it looks like Mickey Mouse's widow's peak. Let the paint dry before moving on.
4. Paint 2 eyes and a beak using acrylic craft paint. Use a yellow upside-down triangle for the beak, and 2 black dots for the eyes. For a more realistic beak, paint a yellow or orange circle, then draw a horizontal black line going through the middle.
Look at pictures of cartoon penguins to get ideas.
You can also hot glue 2 buttons or 2 googly eyes for the eyes.
If you don't have yellow paint, cut a triangle out of yellow paper, and glue that on instead.
Part 3 Adding Optional Details.
1. Give your penguin character with lashes, eyebrows, and/or blush. You don't have to do any of these, but they can really give your penguin personality. Use a very thin brush for the lashes and/or eyebrows, or a paint pen. Use a larger pointed brush to apply pink paint for the blush.
If you want to give your penguin visible yellow feet, paint the 2 bumps in the front (under the white bellow) with yellow acrylic craft paint.
2. Paint the top half of the bottle to turn it into a hat. The 4 bumps on top of your penguin's head can easily turn into a hat. Paint a line around the penguin's head, just above the eyes, then fill in everything above that line. Use whatever color you want.
If you have a molded line just below the bumps, you can use that as a guide instead.
3. Let the hat dry, then add some details. You can make the hat look more hat-like by painting or drawing some stripes or spots onto it. Use a thin, pointed paintbrush and acrylic craft paint in a contrasting color to do this. Let the paint dry when you are done.
Use a paint pen for thin stripes or small dots.
4. Glue a pompom to the top of the hat, if desired. You can make the pompom yourself out of yarn, or you can buy it from the kids section of a craft store. Hot glue the pompom to the top of the hat, right between all 4 bumps.
Choose a pompom color that matches the designs on your hat. If you did not add designs, then use a contrasting color instead.
5. Tie ribbon around the neck to make a scarf. Find some ribbon that goes well with the hat. Wrap the ribbon around the penguin's neck, then cross the left end over the right end. Bring the left end up through the gap, then tighten it. This is just like starting to tie a pair of shoes!
Glue both ends of the ribbon to the penguin so that they stay down.
If you are turning this into a gift box, make sure that you keep the ribbon below the seam.
You can also cut a long, skinny strip out of felt, and use that instead of ribbon. Cut fringes into each end for additional charm.
Question : How do we make the eyes?
Answer : Cut out two small black circles, and two slightly larger yellow circles. Glue the black circles onto the yellow circles, and glue those onto the white face.
Question : We don't have to remove the bottle cap?
Answer : If you have removed the cap, you will have to tape or otherwise plug the hole on the top to "sculpt" the rounded top of the head on, so it is not recommended to remove the cap. However, taping or a cork replacement can be used.
Question : Can I use a plastic bottle?
Answer : Yes, but it may be hard to paint.
Tips.
If you want your penguin to have a pointy hat, discard 1 of the bottom halves and keep 1 of the top halves. Use the top half as the hat.
Use paintbrushes made from sable or taklon bristles. Do not use boar bristle, horsehair, or camelhair.
Spray the penguin with varnish or sealer, if desired. Do this after you finish painting, but before you add pompoms and scarves.
You can spray the capsule with paint primer first to help the paint stick better.
If you are worried about the paint chipping, spray the capsule with paint primer before you start painting.
Warnings.
Use low-temp hot glue guns to avoid blisters and burns. Do not use high-temp hot glue guns.
Things You'll Need.
2 plastic soda bottles, Craft blade, Black spray paint, Acrylic craft paint (white, yellow, and black).
Acrylic craft paint, 2 contrasting colors, Flat and pointed paintbrushes, Ribbon or felt, Pompom, Hot glue, Tacky glue or super glue.
Cat ears are cute accessories that can be easily made. You can wear them with a costume, or as a fun accessory with an outfit. All of the materials needed to make the cat ears can be found at most arts and crafts stores. To make furry cat ears, create the ear bases, put the ears together, and complete the cat ears with the help of an elastic band and hot glue.
Part 1 Creating the Cat Ear Base.
1. Draw the cat ears on paper. This will be the template for the wire. Basically, you just need to draw two wide triangles. You might like to try drawing a few different sizes to see which size looks best on your head. You can cut out the template, or leave the cat ears drawn on the paper. Keep this design as your template for the remaining steps.
Keep in mind that the template will be slightly smaller than the finished ears because of the fur. A template of about three inches is a good size to use.
It doesn’t matter what you use to draw the ears, but pencil is good to use if you will be redrawing the ears multiple times.
2. Create the cat ears with jewelry wire. Following the paper template, bend the wire into the shape of the cat ears. Jewelry wire should be fairly easy to bend, but you can use a pair of long nose pliers to help form the shape. Do this for both ears and you should end up with two triangle shaped ears.
If you don't have wire, you can use paperclips. Just straighten them out and use them as wire. Don't worry if they don't make a perfect triangle. It won't matter when you put them in the fur. Use glue to bind the sides until you put them in.
Use a jewelry wire that is thicker so that it won’t fall out of shape when fur is added to them. 16 or 18 gauge is a good choice because it is thick, but can be bent without too much effort by using pliers.
3. Cut out the fake fur. Following the paper templates again, cut out four triangle shapes in fur. You can use any type of fur that appeals to you, like black, leopard print, or lion-like fur. Fur can be purchased at an arts and crafts store. These should be about a half an inch larger than the template, though, as the fur needs to hold the wire triangles inside once stitched up.
Remember that you can always make it smaller if it's too big, but you can't make it bigger if it's too small.
Part 2 Putting Together the Ears.
1. Sew the fur together. Place two fur pieces together. The fur sides should be facing each other. Sew each side, but leave the bottom edge unsewn. That is the part you are going to insert the wire through to shape the ears. The finished product should be inside out. Repeat this step until you have two ears.
There should be very little seam allowance—only about an ¼ of a inch.
Use a color of thread that best matches the color of fur.
2. Flip the ears so that you can see the fur. The ears should be inside out with the fur parts facing each other once you have finished sewing. Now, turn the ears so that the fur is on the outside. The ear shape should be really obvious now. Inspect the ears to make sure that there aren’t any holes or mistakes.
Turn the ears inside out and sew up any holes that you find.
Use a pair of sewing scissors to cut the thread where any mistakes have been made. Remove the thread from that part and sew it back up with new thread.
3. Place the wire triangle pieces inside each ear. Insert the wire you shaped into triangles earlier into the furry ears. The wire should be able to fit snugly inside of the fur without too much or too little room. Adjust the wire if necessary.
4. Sew up the bottom of the ears. Once you have inserted the wires into the furry ears, sew up the bottom portion that is still open. There shouldn’t be any opening on the ears when you have finished sewing. It doesn't matter if this sewing line is messy, as nobody is going to see it.
Part 3 Completing the Furry Cat Ears.
1. Create the band for the ears. Measure the elastic band or ribbon around your head. The ribbon should cross over the top of your head rather than your forehead. You can find a band or ribbon at most arts and crafts stores. Sew or hot glue the ends together to form a circular headband that fits your head. If you’re using a ribbon, you can also choose to tie the ribbon in the back so that it is adjustable.
If sewing, include a seam allowance in your measurements before cutting the ribbon. Tie the ribbon when testing it on your head to see how much ribbon will be needed in total.
You can also choose to use a headband instead of an elastic band or ribbon.
2. Mark the placement for the ears. First, hold the band and ears together to see where the ears look most natural. Then, check in the mirror to see where the ears look best. Making marks on the headband while it is on your head, use a pen or marker to make marks where the ears will be covering.
It may be easier to have someone help you make the marks while the band is on your head.
3. Attach the ears to the headband. Use hot glue to attach the cat ears onto the headband in the positions that you marked. Use just enough so that the ears stay up, but don’t use so much that the glue gets on other places on the headband or ribbon. Allow at least ten minutes for the glue to dry.
Have someone help you with the hot glue if you aren’t comfortable with using it on your own.
4. Check the finished product. Once the glue has dried, try on the ears. The band should fit your head without sliding. The ears should be standing straight up. Make any adjustments as needed.
Question : What if I don't have any wire, or my parents won't let me use any?
Answer : Depending on the size of your cat ears and the thickness of the fur, you might not even need any wire to make them stand up; the wire is there for support. If the ears still flop over after you have made them, try filling them with some cardboard or craft foam instead.
Question : Is there any alternative to the fur if I don't have a lot of money and can't buy felt or fur and don't have a cat?
Answer : If you own any old stuffed animals that you don't care for anymore, you can use the fluff from those.
Question : Can I use white fur?
Answer : Absolutely.
Question : What do I do if I don't know how to sew?
Answer : You can always ask a friend or family member. If you're feeling ambitious, you can learn how to sew yourself.
Question : Can I use real cat hair?
Answer : Yes, if you want, but it may be best to pick the cat's fur off of the cat brush, not the cat itself.
Question : How can I make fake fur?
Answer : You can make the fur by tearing felt to make fluffy strips. Then, get the same color felt, and glue or sew the fluffy stripes onto it and then cut out the triangle shape for the ears.
Question : How can I make wolf ears the same way?
Answer : Make the shape a bit taller and more pointy. Look at pictures of wolves for reference on how their ears are shaped and then just change the shape.
Question : Could I put pink felt in the center for the finished ear?
Answer : Yes. Just sew or glue it on with a color similar to the color of the felt.
Question : Where can I get fake fur?
Answer : A craft store or someplace that sells fabric. Or you could remove some from a stuffed animal.
Question : Can I make non-fluffy ears?
Answer : Yes, but you may need to expand on your ideas, especially if you are looking to cosplay with them. You could use polymer clay.
Tips.
Fake or fun fur makes a mess when cut. Have something ready to sweep or vacuum it up.
Warnings.
Use care when handling hot glue, as it can easily burn.
Things You'll Need.
Paper for template.
Scissors.
Thin wire for the ears.
Fake fur (20 cm sq. or 7.9 inches.).
Elastic ribbon (5-6 cm or about 1 or 2 inches wide) Make sure you have enough to fit around your head and extra ribbon left for tying.
If you’re a glitter lover, chances are you’ve run across crafts and body glitters that are susceptible to flaking off and leaving a glitzy, sparkly trail behind you. Luckily, there are a few different ways you can craft with and wear glitter so that it doesn’t fall off so easily. Try using Mod Podge to seal in the glitter in your crafting projects, or mix cosmetic-grade glitter with different beauty products to create your own body glitter.
Using Mod Podge for Crafts.
Add a layer of satin or gloss Mod Podge to your craft. Use a foam brush or paintbrush, depending on your craft, and lightly brush a thorough layer of Mod Podge onto the surface area of whatever you are looking to cover in glitter. Make sure the entire area is coated and that there are no bare spots.
You can even make your own Mod Podge at home to save money!
If you don’t have Mod Podge, you could also use regular white school glue, though school glue often chips off easily over time.
Fun ideas of things you can add glitter to: plates, mugs, containers, candles, fabric flowers, glasses frames, cell phone covers, wood, and notebooks or folders.
Dust, pour, or poof the glitter over the Mod Podged area. Depending on the kind of glitter you are using, you might apply it in a slightly different way. The main thing to remember is that you want to completely coat the Mod Podge in glitter and not leave any empty spaces.
You can also use a foam brush to spread on your glitter if you want a little more control over how much you use.
If you are looking for a high-glitter outcome, you can apply a second layer of Mod Podge and glitter immediately after the first one without waiting for it to dry first (it will take a little longer to dry after the second coat, then, but it will be highly glitterized).
Allow the glitter and Mod Podge to dry for 1-2 hours. Leave your newly glittered item alone for several hours or until it is dry to the touch. Try to leave it in a position so that the Mod Podge and glitter isn’t touching any other surface.
If you are adding glitter to multiple items, this is a great time to continue working on those projects while you’re waiting for others to dry.
Apply a top layer of Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. Once the first layer is dry to the touch, use your sponge or paint brush to add another thin layer of Mod Podge to your item. Use long, even strokes to reduce the appearance of brush lines. Make sure you cover the entire item and don’t leave any raw glitter poking through.
You could also use watered down school glue to create an opaque sealant for your crafting project.
The top layer of Mod Podge acts as a sealant and will prevent the glitter from flaking away.
Let your finished craft dry for 3-4 hours before you use it. Depending on how thickly you applied the Mod Podge, you may need to wait anywhere from 3-12 hours before you can safely use the item without potentially messing up the application. Always check the directions on the bottle for tips and guidelines.
If you have a dehumidifier, you can set your craft in front of it for a speedier drying time.
Never place your item directly in front of a heat source, like an electric heater or a hair dryer, as this may cause the Mod Podge to melt or change consistency so it doesn’t dry correctly.
Coat flaking items with sparkle Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. If you have an item that has glitter that is flaking off, you can apply pre-glitterized Mod Podge to add back some sparkle and lock in the remaining glitter. Simply use a sponge or paint brush to apply a thin, even coat of the sealant to the item, then let it fully dry before you use it again.
Make sure to work on a protected surface, like a counter covered in newspaper or paper towels.
Mix Mod Podge with your glitter of choice for a stronger glitter look. Pour some Mod Podge into a disposable cup or bowl and mix in as much glitter as you want to make your own glitter sealant. You can make the glitter as weak or as strong as you prefer. Then follow the instructions to apply the Mod Podge and let it dry.
You can also apply your glitter Mod Podge, another layer of glitter, and then top it off with the glitter Mod Podge again for even more glitter fun.
Wearing Body Glitter.
Combine body oil and loose glitter for an all-body glitter-wearing option. Instead of sprinkling loose body glitter on your arms and hoping it doesn’t fall off, combine body oil and loose glitter in a travel-sized shampoo container. Shake the container up really well, and then apply it to your arms, legs, chest, or face whenever you need an extra glitter boost.
While you could purchase body oils or lotions that already have glitter in them, it can be less expensive and more fun to do it yourself.
Put petroleum jelly on your skin and add body glitter for a sparkly look. Use a clean makeup or paint brush and apply an even layer of the petroleum jelly to the area you want to cover in glitter (like your collar bones, shoulders, or even your hairline). Then use another clean brush or your hand to gently press loose body glitter onto the jelly.
Visit a cosmetics store to buy body-specific glitter, which is usually a slightly different consistency than the glitter used for crafting.
If you don’t have petroleum jelly, you could also use hair gel as the sticky base for your body glitter.
Use this method in areas that aren’t going to come into frequent contact with other surfaces. For example, it probably wouldn’t work well on your legs if you are going to be sitting and standing and walking around often.
Mix hairspray and glitter to create glitter brow and hair gel. Spray hairspray into a dish, like a small cup or bowl (or even a disposable Dixie Cup), and add loose glitter. Mix it around with a toothpick or a spoolie brush, and then apply it carefully to your eyebrows or to select strands of your hair.
Do not use the glitter and hairspray mix on your eyelashes as it could irritate or infect them.
Wear vibrant lipstick and then add loose glitter for a shimmery lip look. Steer clear of sticky or glossy lipsticks and stick with a cream base to keep the glitter in place better. Put on a layer or two or lipstick, then use your fingers to gently press loose glitter into your lips.
With this trend, you’ll want to avoid pressing your lips together or eating or drinking anything too messy.
Create a glitter stamp from a makeup sponge and loose glitter. Cut a makeup sponge into a fun shape (like a heart or a star) and dip one side of it carefully into loose glitter. Spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly or hair gel on your body where you want the stamp, and then press the makeup sponge onto the jelly to transfer the glitter.
Your glitter stamp should stay on all day as long as it doesn’t brush up roughly against anything else.
Keeping Glitter on Clothes.
Use hairspray for a quick fix on your glitter clothing. Take your item of clothing outdoors or to a well ventilated area, and lay it down completely flat. Then spray a light coat of hairspray overtop of the glitter. Use unscented hairspray if you can. Allow the hairspray to dry completely before you wear the clothing item.
Hairspray is a great, quick fix, but overtime it doesn’t hold up, though you can reapply hairspray when you need to. Long-term, you just have to care for and store glittery clothes very carefully.
Affix glitter to your clothes with fabric glue. Lay out your item of clothing in a clean workspace, and apply the fabric glue in whatever patten you want. Then, carefully shake loose glitter overtop of the glue, coating it so that none of the glue is visible. Let the glue and glitter dry for several hours before picking up the item and shaking off the excess glitter.
You could even make a stamp out of a sponge and decorate your shirt that way (like stars all over a t-shirt), and then shake the glitter on top of the design.
Wash glittery clothes sparingly and let them air-dry. When you go to clean your clothes that have glitter on them, try to wash then only when they really need it. Use cold water and the delicate cycle in the washing machine, and don’t put them into the dryer. Instead, hang them up to air-dry.
You could even take your glittery clothes to a dry cleaner instead of washing them yourself.
When crafting with glitter, try working over a cooking tray. You’ll catch all the excess glitter that falls off and can easily return it to its container.
When making your own body glitter, try to use cosmetic grade glitter rather than crafting glitter.
Store your glittery clothes in plastic bags to protect them from rubbing up against other items in your closet (and to protect your other clothes from getting glitter all over them).
How to Make a Paper Snake Using Construction Paper.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. You can easily make a snake out of construction paper rings. The more rings you add, the longer your snake will be. Here's a list of what you will need to make such a snake:
Several sheets of construction paper, Red paper, Scissors, Glue stick, tape, or stapler, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes.
2. Find some construction paper. You will need at least three pieces. You can use all one color to make a solid-colored snake. You can also use different colors if you want a striped snake.
3. Cut the paper into 1½ to 2 inch (3.81 to 5.08 centimeters) thick strips. You will need at least 16 strips. The more you make, the longer your snake will be.
Consider stacking the paper and cutting several sheets at the same time. This will make the cutting part faster.
4. Make a ring out of a strip of paper and glue it shut. Pick up a strip of paper and bring the two ends together. Overlap them by about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters). Use a glue stick to hold them together. You can also use tape or a stapler instead.
Do not use white school glue or tacky glue. It does not dry fast enough. Your snake will fall apart before the glue dries.
If you are using a stapler, ask an adult to help you.
5. Slip a strip of paper through the ring and glue the ends together. Keep repeating this step until you run out of strips of paper. You can make your snake just one color, or you can make it many colors. You can give your snake a pattern, or make the colors random.
6. Add the tongue. Cut a skinny rectangle from red paper and cut a V shape into one end to make the fork. Fold the flat side over by about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) to make a tab. Glue the tab to one of the end rings.
7. Add the eyes right above the tongue. You can draw them on using a marker or crayon. You can also glue them on using some white school glue or tacky glue.
Things You'll Need.
Several sheets of construction paper, Red paper, Scissors, Glue stick, tape, or stapler, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Bird houses can be as plain or as ornate as houses for people, but, as a subject for an art work, they are a lot less intimidating. While we enjoy seeing and thinking about homes for birds, we might live where it is impractical to install an actual bird house. The solution is to paint a picture of bird houses. Because of its simplicity, this project is virtually fail proof, even for a non-artist. So, go ahead, tackle architecture, but begin on a bird's scale.
Steps.
1. Cut a rectangle of 140 lb. cold pressed watercolor paper and draw a pencil line 2" (5cm) up from the bottom edge to create a base for the houses to stand on. Later, you can paint this to represent a limb of a tree or a platform.
2. Draw a simple house starting with a square 3½ in (10cm) on a side, in pencil to represent the body of the house. To construct a slanted roof, the center point (1¾", 5cm) and draw a line upward a few inches. Close the roof by dropping two lines from the center point to each side of the house.
3. Alternatively, trace a miniature wooden birdhouse purchased from the craft or discount store. Simply place the house on your paper, back down and draw around it in pencil.
4. Repeat drawing houses until you have four in a row. Allow a slight space between them. Arrange them according to your taste, varying sizes and shapes.
5. Add details to each house such as entry holes for the birds, a picket fence, shingles, siding, or anything you wish. Go to the internet to look for ideas.
6. Embellish the houses with vines, flowers, leafs, beds, berries, tree branches, etc. Use the vines as a device to intertwine and connect the houses and it will lead the viewer's eye through the composition.
7. Put a bird or two in the picture. Draw one from your imagination or go online for pictures of birds. Put them standing still or in motion, flying into the picture.
8. Prepare your watercolors by adding water to each pad if you are using pan paints. If you are using tube paints, set up your palette with primary, secondary and neutral colors. Remember to leave the center part of the palette open for mixing colors.
9. Set out brushes, a ½" (1cm) flat for big areas, and some pointed ones in various sizes.
10. Begin painting by pulling a color for the body of the house, diluting it with clear water and making a puddle large enough to cover the area you wish to fill.
Repeat the process with a different color for each house.
Paint the houses, the area beneath the houses, and the sky.
Allow the paper to dry before attempting to paint over it or the colors will run into one another. Use a hairdryer to hasten the process, if desired.
11. When dry, paint the greenery, flowers, birds, sun and any other touches you can think of.
How to Make a Tweeting Bird in a Cage from Plastic Straws.
Tips.Try a technique called negative painting for a white object, such as a picket fence or a daisy. You simply paint around the object, keeping the white paper as your white color. Use a small, pointed brush and dip from the puddle on your palette that is the color the flower or fence is standing against.
Dry the paint before attempting to add a new layer.
If tiny hairs get in the paint from the brush, allow the area to dry and brush the hairs away. If you try to pick them off with your fingers, you will mar your wash and leave finger marks.
This classic, goofy sock toy has been a favorite of children and adults for years. Making something this popular may sound like a daunting task, but it is actually quite easy. To make a sock monkey of your own, follow these steps.
Making the Legs.
Find two clean socks. The best ones will be ones with heels and toes in contrasting colors to the rest of the sock. One sock will be used to make the body, legs, and head, and the other will used to make the arms, tail, face, and ears.
These monkeys were traditionally made with “Rockford Red Heel Socks.” If you have striped socks, those work well, too. If your socks have cuffs, be sure to undo the seam carefully; the cuff length is needed for the length of the monkey.
Turn both socks inside-out.
Lay one sock with the heel flat down. You may have to flatten the sock against its natural crease to make this happen. If it's not cooperating, grab an iron and give it a quick once-over
Draw a center line on the sock from the toe to approximately one inch from the colored heel. This will become the split in the monkey’s legs. Again, note that the heel is actually hidden beneath the sock at this point, so you may have to flip it over briefly to double-check your positioning.
Erasable fabric marker works best for drawing. Make sure before you cut that your line is indeed on the halfway mark -- a monkey with one fat leg and one skinny leg is not a happy monkey.
With the sock still folded flat, sew up one side of your marked line and back down the other. Leave approximately 1/4 inch (.6 cm) between the line and each of your seams.
You can either use a sewing machine or sew by hand. If you're using a sewing machine, use your walking foot.
Cut along the line between your two seams. The monkey’s legs and colored feet will now be clearly visible.
Making the Body and Head
Turn the sock right-side out and stuff the entire thing. Polyfill stuffing is available at all craft supply stores. The upper half of the sock will become the torso and head.
The amount of stuffing is up to you. How firm do you want your monkey? If the sock is thin, you may want to err on the side of under stuffing, as overstuffing it may cause it to stretch.
Sew the head and/or hat. If your sock opening is the same color as the body of the sock, just make a nice rounded head and stitch it shut. If it is a contrasting color, you will need to decide if you want to cut it off (making a shorter body for the monkey) and make the head as usual or use the excess coloring as a "hat" by not stuffing the last inch or two and cinching the opening into a cone shape.
To make the head: Stitch around the neck with quarter inch stitches. Use sturdy thread such as embroidery floss. Pull the stitches snugly until you get the size neck you want and knot the ends. Round out the head area with stuffing as desired and stitch the top opening shut.
If you are making a hat, start working with the cuff. Gather the tip with large stitches and snug/cinch them closed. Fold the raw edges to the center and tuck inside. Then, stitch the opening closed. Winter ready!
Making the Arms, Tail, and Ears
Cut the second sock into sections as shown. Though the pattern is only drawn on the top, make sure to cut through both layers.
Fold both arm pieces in half lengthwise. Then sew up the open side in a gentle arc around the dark ends; the dark ends will become the paws and the opposites (open ends) are where the arm will be stuffed and then attached to the body.
Keep all of these sections open-ended. Make sure they're turned inside-out as you work! If they're not, all your seams will be very, very rough.
Fold the tailpiece in half lengthwise. Then sew up the open side and in a gentle arc around the dark end as you did with the arms; the dark end will become the tip of the tail and the opposite, open end is where the tail will be stuffed and attached to the body.
Fold each ear in half and cut across the crease. Then, sew in a gentle arc following the rounded sides, leaving the flat side open. The opening is where you will stuff each ear and then attach it to the body. Noticing a pattern?
If you'd like, you can then fold the ears again, forming a vertical line down the middle of the ear (giving it depth like a real ear has). Basically, pinch the edge you just sewed in and bring the two points together. Slip stitch the two sides together.
For now, do nothing with the muzzle (formerly the heel). That part's saved for later.
Flip the sewn pieces right-side out and stuff them. You should now have two arms, two ears, a tail, and an unsewn, unstuffed nose.
The tail may prove to be a bit of a problem. You could try to stuff it using regular polyfill stuffing and a pencil to poke it through, or you could use batting or part of an aquarium filter. Both the batting and the filter are a bit firmer and will create a more uniform-looking tail in the long run.
Attach the tail to the rump. Position it carefully and slip stitch it all the way around.
Attach the arms to either side of the body. You may want them a little higher than your natural inclination says; this will give your sock a more monkey-like posture.
Assembling the Face and Ears
Trim away the edges of the heel piece if necessary. Since this will form the muzzle, try to make sure the piece of fabric is uniform in color. Note that, since the outermost edges will be covered, you do not have to make them perfect.
Fold the bottom of the muzzle under and sew it to the bottom of the monkey's chin. Make sure no raw edges are visible along the bottom, but leave the top open for now.
Add stuffing to make the muzzle puff out. You may want to refer to existing images of sock monkeys as to how this should look. The best sock monkeys seem to have a muzzle that puffs out at nearly a 90º angle.
Fold the raw edge under and stitch the top edge to the face. The muzzle should take up a large amount of the area for the head -- don't worry about needing space for the rest of his features.
Go ahead, give your monkey a mouth! Along the toe line of the muzzle (which should be dead center) branch stitch in a contrasting color of thread.
If you'd like nostrils, simply embroider two small rectangles above the mouth about 1" (2.5 cm) apart.
Fold the raw edges of each ear to the inside and stitch them closed. Stitch the completed ears to the sides of the head. They should be in line with where the eyes will be, just above the muzzle. Make sure they stick out from the front!
Add button eyes. To give your monkey whites on the outside of his eyes, glue or sew the buttons onto a bit of white felt. Then, with thread of a contrasting color, sew on the felt just above the muzzle. You now have an adorable sock monkey!
For a non-demonic looking monkey, stick to black buttons. The size you need depends on the size of your monkey. And if you're giving it to a child, either avoid the buttons entirely or make sure they're sewn on really well !
Tips.
Important: when stuffing the sock monkey, use small pieces of stuffing. Using bigger pieces may be quicker, but the results aren't satisfying at all. The project will come out lumpy and, well, ugly. Smaller pieces leave a smooth finish. It may help to use the eraser end of a pencil to gently push stuffing into place.
To add personality to your monkey you can cut out a red heart and put it in your monkey's chest before you sew it up.
You can use fabric glue to add the eyes instead of sewing them on.
Further ideas.
Sew a tiny red vest for the monkey with buttons down the front to make him/her look like an organ grinder's monkey.
Embroider a mouth line on the nose or eyebrows for added expression.
Cinch elbows, knees, wrists and ankles for the monkey using the same technique as for the neck.
Add a pom pom to the hat for a winter monkey, or a flower to the hat for a spring monkey, etc.
Sew a fabric banana into the monkey's hand.
Sew a tiny red heart on the monkey's chest.
Knit a scarf for more winter fun.
If you don't have stuffing, you can use old pieces of t-shirts, crushed and dried flower petal, used dryer sheets, tissue paper, yarn, grass or rice.
If you don't have any buttons, you could use googly eyes instead.
Bright colored socks work well. Also spots and stripes are great.
Eyes can also be drawn onto your monkey. Embroidery is another option.
Warnings.
If you're giving the sock monkey to a child under three years old, don't use buttons for the eyes. If they come loose, they could end up in the child's mouth. Instead, embroider the eyes on, use child-safe doll/cat eyes, or use nontoxic fabric paint or markers to draw the eyes or use felt eyes.
Use only socks you have permission to cut up.
Scissors and needles are sharp. Be careful when using them.
Things You'll Need.
One pair of socks with contrasting colored heels and toes.
Stuffing.
Embroidery floss or yarn to match your sock.
Sewing supplies: needles, sewing machine, scissors, etc.
A bright pen/marker to copy the pattern onto the socks.
A bird's nest makes a wonderful mantelpiece decoration, and can make use of almost anything you find along a nature hike, or in your front yard. Wild birds usually prefer to make their own nests, but you can lure many species to your yard by leaving the right materials outside, or building a nesting box.
Method 1 Building a Decorative Nest.
1. Find long, flexible plant stems. These will form the main shape of the nest, and are much easier to work with than hard, short twigs. You can use straw, long grass, vines, willow fronds, bendy reeds, or seagrass found outdoors or at a garden supply store. Raffia is another good option, obtainable from a craft supply store.
If Mexican feather grass grows in your area, grab a clump of it and pull your hand upward to remove a handful of hairy seeds clinging together. Once you have enough seeds, clump them into a ball and make a nest shape by sticking your thumb into it.
2. Bend the stems into a loop. Grab a thick handful of the stems, and bend them into a U shape, adding more stems if necessary to form a full circle. Tie it in place using a piece of string or florist wire. If the plant stems have many little leaves, or if they're wiry and dry, you can even weave them together without using any attachment.
If tying the nest together is too hard, you can clip them temporarily in place while waiting for glue to dry. Don't use glue if you plan to keep the nest outdoors.
If your fresh-cut plants won't stay in position, try hanging up the bundle in a windy area to dry for 24 hours. Some plant stems are easier to bend when fresh, but grasses and straw benefit from drying.
3. Shape the rest of the nest. Grab a second, smaller handful of stems and shape it into a smaller loop. Wedge this inside the larger loop and push it downward to form the base of the loop. Depending on how well the stems fit together and how sturdy you want the nest to be, you may need to use a thread or glue to fasten the two loops together.
4. Decorate with scavenged materials. Real birds sometimes spend days collecting bits and pieces to build a nest. Hopefully you're a little faster, but you can still have fun gathering objects from nature or your craft boxes. Here are some ideas to get you started:
If you plan to leave the nest outside, only use materials found outdoors, and nothing that could hurt an animal.
Feathers and pieces of eggshell fit the theme. Be aware that collecting most wild feathers is illegal in the United States, but they are mostly harmless from a disease perspective.
Look for twigs, leaves, bark, and moss in interesting shapes and colors.
If the nest is for indoor decoration, you can use bits of string, colored paper shreds, and confetti.
5. Place eggs inside (optional). Finish your art project by placing eggs or fake eggs inside the nest. You can quickly add marbles or colorful pebbles, or hollow out real eggs, decorate them, or even carve them if you have the right tools.
Things You'll Need.
Any long, flexible bundle of stems, grass, or straw, String, florist's wire, or glue (recommended unless stems interweave easily).
Moss, bark, twigs, or other decorative materials, Eggs and egg-blowing materials (optional), Marbles, pebbles, or other "fake eggs" (optional).
Method 2 Attracting Wild Birds to Nearby Nests.
1. Look up the nesting habits of local birds. Find a local wildlife guide at a library or bookstore, or search online for information on local birds. Choose one or more species you want to attract, and look up their nesting habits to discover what shape and style of nest will be most effective.
If you live in North America, NestWatch is an excellent resource for nesting information, and one you can expand with your own data.
2. Leave nesting material in your yard. This is an easy way to attract birds, and might be worth it even if you end up building a full nest as well. If you managed to find specific nesting information, you'll know what materials to leave, but you can't go wrong with a few items from the following list, left in visible locations:
Rigid twigs (for platform nest species) and flexible ones (for cup nest species).
Yard clippings such as dry grass and straw, bits of bark and moss, dead leaves, etc.
Human or animal hair or fur (no longer than 6 inches / 15 centimeters).
Yarn or string.
Mud, spiderwebs, and/or caterpillar cocoons to help birds bind nesting materials together.
Never leave out materials that have come into contact with harsh chemicals, including dye, pesticides, or anti-flea treatments. Dryer lint and clothing rags are not recommended.
3. Provide a variety of plants. If you want to attract birds that make nests in existing holes, leave dead tree stumps and fallen logs in the yard. Living trees and bushes will attract more visible nests from other species, especially if the plants are native to your area. For best results, plant a "staircase" of grass or moss, flowering perennials, shrubs, and trees.
4. Build a nesting box. If there aren't obvious crevices or hollows in your yard, building a nesting box or birdhouse is a simple carpentry project. Make sure the birdhouse is constructed to match the size of the birds you want to attract, or the size of the birds you see flying near your home.
For a higher chance of success, follow birdhouse building instructions specific to common North American species.
Clean out the birdhouse regularly whenever birds are not nesting.
5. Make a bird's nest. Many birds prefer to make their own nest rather than move in to a ready-made one. Lining natural hollows with the nesting materials listed above may give a bird an attractive head start. If you want to make a different type of nest, such as a cup or platform nest, it's best to follow the specific habits of the bird species you want to attract. Each species tends to prefer certain materials.
Placement of the nest is also important. Many bird species hide their nest amidst thick branches, but some prefer more open branches, bushes, or open patches of ground. Look for more information on NestWatch, through online searches, or in a local bird nest identification guide.
Things You'll Need.
Any yard clippings, especially twigs and grasses, String or yarn, Mud, spiderwebs, or caterpillar cocoons.
Human hair or animal fur, Small amount of lumber and nails (to build a nesting box, if hollow logs not available).
Question : Where do you get all the supplies?
Answer : You can find the necessary items on the ground in a park or wooded area, perhaps even your back yard!
Question : How do I make the nest big?
Answer : You can use longer sticks that are pliable enough to bend. Just make sure not to break them.
Question : What if I live in the city?
Answer : If you live in the city and want to attract birds, put up bird feeders. Birds love cracked corn, nyjer seeds, black oil seeds, fruits, and millet. Just make sure to take measures to keep the squirrels out.
Question : Am I allowed to take care of a wild baby bird if its mother is away and it's storming outside?
Answer : No. Leave the baby bird alone. Its mother will come back for it. Wild animals can take care of each other and themselves, they very rarely need our help. The bird will be fine in the storm.
Question : How do I make a bottled nest box?
Answer : Just take a milk bottle (not glass) and make an opening in the body of the box. Then take a rope and make holes at the top and tie the rope to the holes. Make sure you make it tight.
Question : Can I hatch the eggs myself?
Answer : If it is a wild bird egg do not touch it. In the USA it is illegal to take care of wild birds.
Question : Can I look at the eggs when they have been laid?
Answer : You can take a peek, as long as the mother bird is not nearby. Make sure you don't touch the eggs, as you will leave a scent behind that the mother bird can detect.
Question : Are most bird nests made of straw, twigs, and mud?
Answer : Yes, that is what a typical bird nest is made of.
Question : What can I do about wild animals that eat the eggs?
Answer : It depends on the animal. For squirrels, you can't really do anything, but for other birds you can find a better spot to put the nesting box. You shouldn't worry too much, because the mother bird will protect it's young with her life.
Question : Can I make a bird nest from leftover grass from a lawn mower?
Answer : Lawn clippings are probably too short to make a decent nest. Maybe if you collect it and dry it out you can use a few pieces to line the nest.
Tips.
For a quick and easy nest, shred or cut a paper bag into thin strips. Line a bowl with a paper towel, arrange the strips over them, then glue the paper bag strips together and let dry into a nest shape.
It’s fine to take a look at the eggs, but be careful, because smart animals like coyotes can follow you to the nest. If you have no predators in the area, taking a look at the eggs will leave a scent, but birds don’t have a sense of smell.
Warnings.
If a wild bird moves in to your nest, don't disturb it or the surrounding area. Watch the nest from somewhere the bird can't see you, or you may scare the bird away or attract predators to the nest.
