One of the #1 things that people often say to me is, “I would love to make creative projects with my kids, but I’m just not crafty. I don’t even know where to start!” My reply is always, “Trust me, you do NOT need to consider yourself ‘crafty’ to start getting creative with your children!” There are hundreds upon hundreds of craft projects that you can make with your children that require NO special skills or tools and that take less than half an hour of your time. In fact, most of these 50+ quick and easy kids craft project ideas that I’ve rounded up here actually take less than FIFTEEN minutes to make!
WHY CRAFT WITH YOUR KIDS?
A recent study by Dr. Richard Rende revealed that creative interaction between parents and young children engaging in activities like arts and crafts not only provides immediate and lasting cognitive benefits but also creates a unique bonding experience, which creates lifelong memories. Taking time to be creative with your children is a topic that I am incredibly passionate about. I know firsthand the benefits that children reap when they are exposed to arts and crafts activities, and in an age where arts are in a decline in the school systems, it is even more important than ever for parents to take the initiative to introduce art activities to their children.
Other key findings of Dr. Rende’s study showed that:
• Arts and crafts engage multiple brain areas simultaneously and
improve bilateral coordination between the left and right sides of
the brain, leading to immediate and future cognitive development.
• Activities like arts and crafts accelerate the development of muscles
in the hands and fingers, improving fine motor skills that are
essential for school success in the earliest formal years.
• Face-to-face interaction in the early years is critical for optimal
social development.
• Arts and crafts promote rich social interactions that help develop
language skills and social cognitive abilities like understanding
emotions.
• Creative activities are a great way to bond with children and create
lasting memories.
Nearly 90% of the parents surveyed for the study said that they would like to spend more time creating arts and crafts with their children, but they didn’t know where to start or how to carve out the time needed.
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A craft room is a place where you want to let your creative energies take over. Organizing your craft room will take some work but the end result is worth the effort. You will want to start by gathering and sorting all of your available craft supplies. Then, find places to store these items where they will be easy to grab and use in the midst of a project. Use organizing as an opportunity to display those items that inspire you as well.
Method 1 Sorting Your Craft Supplies.
1. Gather all of your craft items. Grab a basket and walk throughout your living space grabbing any and all craft supplies and tools. Carry them into your designated craft room and place everything in the middle of the floor. Once you think that you’ve gotten it all, go back through one more time just to be certain. Make sure to open all of your drawers and cabinets, as craft supplies can often ‘hide.’
Likewise, go through your craft room and identify any objects or items that do not belong there and move them out. They may need to go in a ‘staging area’ in another room, so that you can concentrate your energy on your craft area.
2. Sort your supplies out according to item type. Look over your supply pile and begin to build smaller piles based upon different categories of supplies. For example, put all of your wrapping paper together. All fabrics should go together initially. After these first piles are finished, you can go back through them and narrow them even further according to size and color. For example, put all of the red wrapping paper together.
At this point your room may be in controlled chaos, so be careful walking around or you may slip on one of your piles. For that reason, try to keep other people out of the room as well, at least during this stage.
To keep you from feeling overwhelmed, bring an egg timer into the room and set it for 15-minutes. When the timer goes off, take a 5-minute break. Then, re-set the timer and start again. This will keep you motivated to work at a steady pace without burning out.
3. Decide what to donate. As you sort, identify items that are worth donating. Perhaps you have multiples of some items or maybe leftover supplies from projects that you’ve completed and moved on from. Make sure that whatever you donate is safe for another user. For example, don’t donate rusty scissors or any cracked glass items.
Various charity organizations, schools, and libraries will gladly accept donations of craft supplies as long as they are in good condition. This is a great opportunity to share your interest in crafting with other people.
Depending on the amount of items that you have, some charities will actually come to your house and pick them up for you. This may be a good opportunity to do organize other areas of your home as well.
4. Create a trash pile and dispose of it. As you sort, identify items that need to be thrown away. This could be items that you no longer find useful, but that aren’t suitable for donation due to condition or quantity. You should also trash any supplies that are no good anymore, such as dried out glue or frayed ribbons. Ask yourself if you’ve used the item in the past year and if you haven’t odds are it needs to be thrown away or donated.
Take the trash out after you’ve finished sorting the main pile. If you wait you are likely to leave it there and it will become an eyesore and will slow your organizing progress.
5. Repeat this process every few weeks. As life goes on, many of your supplies will likely wander out of your craft space once more. To keep your area tidy and useful for you, go through a sorting and cleaning process fairly often, especially after completing a major project.
Also, devote at least ten minutes after you finish working in your craft room for picking up and storing items in their new proper places. Devoting even this small amount of time can make a major difference in the long-term appearance of your craft room.
Method 2 Implementing a Storage System.
1. Store similar items together. You’ll want to keep your supplies together in their sorted piles as you place them in their designated storage spots and containers. Extra-small items will need to be placed in extra-small containers and will probably be grouped together for storage and then usage.
Keep an eye out for items that may appear similar but that have slightly different functions. These situations may require that you divide up your storage system even further. For example, you’ll want to divide your fabric scissors from your paper scissors.
2. Use plastic bins. These are the number one storage option when organizing a craft room. They come in a wide variety of sizes and are easy to stack. They also fit well within a cube shelf. You can see inside the clear bins, making it easy to find an item that you are looking for.
Depending on how you arrange your bins, you will want to purchase ones that open on the top or via a front panel. Look for lids that snap on tightly to avoid spilling your supplies.
Bins are also especially useful when working with messy items such as paints. In addition, they contain fumes from paints as well.
Make sure to purchase extra bins, and to leave space in the ones that you currently use, for new supplies that you may purchase.
3. Arrange items by color. Store and display your craft supplies according to the color wheel. This will create a quick way for you to find an item that you need for a particular project. It will also lead to beautiful displays of items within the room itself. For example, if you have a bunch of balls of yarn, sort them according to color (reds next to orange tints, etc.) and place them in a wooden cube bookcase for quick access and visual appeal.
4. Repurpose materials as storage containers. Almost any container that is sturdy with a lid can be reused as storage in your craft room. Try to think creatively and find jars, buckets, etc. that you find visually appealing already. They will be even more attractive when holding your supplies.
Here are a few unique ideas. To house smaller items such as sequins, use little plastic pill storage boxes that you can get at a pharmacy or grocery store. For colored beads, place them in a spice rack by color for ease of access and beauty. Small tins or colored buckets make a great storage option for pens, pencils, and paintbrushes.
For a more industrial look, grab a magnetic knife holder from your kitchen, attach it to the wall of your craft room, and use it to display your sharp cutting devices and scissors. This works best when positioned close to your standing work area.
Look at crafting sites and blogs online or buy inspirational craft books/magazines in order to find additional design ideas that may suit your particular space and taste.
5. Label everything. This is especially important when storing items in plastic bins or opaque containers. As you put away every storage container, make sure that it has a clear and visible label that you can see from the center of your craft room. For example, the bin with tape should say, “Tape-clear.”
You can get as fancy as you’d like with the labels. Some people prefer to use a standard label maker while others print directly from online templates. You can even make your own labels by hand.
6. Install shelving. You want to get the most use out of all surfaces within your room, so don’t ignore the walls. Look around your craft room and consider adding shelves to many of the open spaces on the walls. Think creatively about shelving and use materials such as recycled bookcase shelves or even old metal signs repurposed as shelves.
Method 3 Organizing Your Space for Creative Inspiration.
1. Locate your work table for ease of access. Get a sturdy table that you’d feel comfortable working on and place it in the most convenient space in the room, usually right in the middle. You want to be able to access it from all sides. Consider adding a chair or stool, unless you plan to stand all of the time when crafting.
In addition to your main table, you may want another one placed against the wall that will almost act like a workbench. You can hang items on the wall next to it for quick grabbing access.
2. Keep your favorite supplies close by. The materials that you are using for a current project, or those that you consistently rely upon, should be placed close to your table workspace. For example, if you are a seamstress, do not hide your best pair of cutting shears in a labeled storage bin in the closet.
3. Emphasize the natural light when possible. If you have a choice of room, pick a room with ample light sources. This will help to save you from eye strain as you work on your projects. You can also supplement the light by adding interesting (and bright) lamps. Hanging lamps often work the quite well as they are out of the way.
4. Create an inspiration board. Pin up photos or drawings to a fabric-covered poster board. Or, hang a magnetic board on your wall and attach items to it. Clip or write down quotes that you like and attach them to the board. Let it keep growing until you feel the need to remove some items into storage. This can be a fairly chaotic, but inspirational space, in an another organized room.
To add even more visual appeal, use colorful and creative stick-pins to attach items to the board. You can even go with pieces of patterned tape too.
5. Decorate with beautiful craft items. If you love your yarn, don’t hide it, display it. As you sort out items at the start of this process, look for those supplies that you find particularly visually stunning or exciting. Try to create spaces out in the open to store these items. For example, lengths of ribbon can be stored and displayed by hanging a peg board on the wall.
6. Create more access by manipulating your space. Don’t be afraid to use every inch of your craft room for some storage, display, or work purpose. You can paint inspirational quotes on the ceiling and hang items from it too. You can go vertical up the walls and increase your reach by employing footstools. Typically neglected areas, such as the backs of doors, can be put to good use with hanging storage pouches.
Increase your visibility in closet spaces by removing the doors and replacing them with a rod and curtain. When you first enter your room, sweep aside the curtain and you’ve got instant access and visibility into this space.
Tips.
You might want to do an inventory as you sort and organize, in order to determine what supplies you need to reorder.
Warnings.
Think about design and utility, but also safety. If you will have kids in your craft room, watch how you display sharp tools, etc.
Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.
Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.
Not Reading the Instructions
Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.
Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric
Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.
Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle
Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.
Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle
Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.
Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots
Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.
Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness
Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.
Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread
Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.
Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen
It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.
Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils
Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.
Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted
When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.
Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame
Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.
Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction
Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).
Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing
Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.
Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting
Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.
Getting Your Project Dirty
Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.
Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type
If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.
Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching
You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.
Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly
Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.
Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight
Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.
Rushing to Fix a Mistake
If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.
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If you are looking for different surfaces to stamp onto then how about trying artist's canvases. These are great for making decor for the home and canvas blocks are all the rage right now. This is a project for stampers happy to experiment with different techniques to create interesting results.
What Are Artist's Canvases?
Artist's canvases are typically pieces of linen or cotton canvas on which artists paint. There are two types which are commonly used, canvas board or panels, where the canvas is stretched over a piece of board. This gives a firm flat surface for stamping.
The other type is stretched canvas. These are pieces of canvas that are stretched over a wooden frame which creates a taut surface. Canvases of either type are available in a wide range of sizes, from tiny canvases through to canvases that take up an entire wall. There are a variety of different qualities of canvas available and art stores will have the biggest range on offer.
About the Surface for Stamping
The canvas surface is woven and as such it is more textured than normal cardstock. This is one of the features of the canvas which makes it a little different and interesting to work on. Note that this texture will mean that some detail in a very intricate stamped image may get lost. You will also notice that some canvases are sold as primed, others are not primed. A primed surface means that it has been treated ready for painting. Both surfaces can be stamped on, however, the inks will be absorbed by the surface of the untreated canvas and may need heat sealing on treated canvas. It is best to experiment with both types and see which gives you the results you prefer.
Where to Buy
You will find stretch canvases for sale in artists supply stores. You will also find them in craft stores and even some stationery stores as well as online.
How to Use
While you can stamp onto canvas panels with relative ease, stamping on stretch canvas presents some significant challenges, not least the fact that the canvas surface, while taut, has some movement and therefore it is difficult to stamp onto in the traditional manner. However you can achieve good results by placing the inked stamp, image side up and carefully pressing the canvas, top side down, onto the stamp. Then carefully rub over the back of the canvas to make sure the inked image is transferred from the stamp to the canvas. To use this method, your stamp must be smaller than the recess at the back of the stretch canvas.
Ink for Stamping
Unlike stamping on canvas or fabric which is going to be worn or may need regular laundry care, canvas panels are purely decorative, therefore there is no need to use fabric ink when you stamp on canvas panels. The type of ink you use depends on the results you want to achieve, however, good thick pigment inks are a great choice although they may need sealing with a heat gun. Permanent ink such as Stazon and Ranger Archival inks are also a great choice.
Mistakes
While artist's canvases are more expensive than normal paper or cardstock, you don't need to worry that all is lost if you make a mistake. If you make a mistake, simply get some white acrylic paint and paint over the image. Leave the paint to dry and when it is dry, start again!
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Adding a beautiful piece of art to a room is the last layer of decoration that every home needs. But a framed piece can be pricey. Instead of shelling out money for a print or painting, why not frame a gorgeous piece of fabric instead? Not only will fabric add color and pattern to a room, but it also lends personality. Plus, varying the textures in a gallery wall will add interest and depth to the space.
You can use a favorite piece of fabric that has been passed down in your family or simply a pattern that caught your eye at the fabric store. Either way, it's a great way to display a beautiful textile. Hang one of these prints on your wall as soon as possible! This is an easy project that takes less than an hour to complete.
Gather Your Materials
Small canvas
Fabric
Scissors
Hot glue
Iron
Cloth tape (optional)
Choose Your Fabric
Once you've selected your fabric, make sure it's large enough to fit around your canvas. While you can opt to use a more traditional picture frame, the canvas is a really easy way to complete this project while still showing off the texture of the fabric.
Cut the fabric to the size of the canvas, leaving at least 1 inch of extra fabric around all of the edges.
Note: If the fabric is vintage or heirloom, you can leave it as is. Don't cut or glue and simply pin it to the canvas instead.
Smooth the Fabric
If needed, gently iron the fabric to remove any deep creases. Then, stretch the fabric over the canvas and secure it using dabs of hot glue on the back frame of the canvas. You want to pull the fabric taut, but not so much so that it's going to release and look saggy when you're done gluing.
Attach the Fabric
If the fabric is delicate and you don't want to cut and glue it, put pins at each end and each side to secure it. Just be sure to pull the fabric taut as you go, so you don't end up with any weird wrinkles. If you aren't emotionally attached to the fabric, follow these steps to finish off the back of the frame.
There will be excess fabric at the top and bottom of the canvas, so to handle it in a way that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, you're going to want to fold and glue the fabric to the canvas in a similar way that you'd finish wrapping a present. It will look finished and pretty once you're done.
Find a Place for It
Place the canvas art wherever you'd like. Add it to the top of your bookshelf or hang it on the wall. If you easily grow tired of decor, the beauty of this project—if the fabric isn't an heirloom or vintage piece—is that you can simply rip it off the canvas and start over!
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More often than not, cats can be found lounging in the sun or snoozing the day away. But don’t let them fool you—they love to play. Cats love climbing, chasing, and jumping just as much as any other pet.
But all the climbing and scratching can lead to wear and tear. Instead of sacrificing your beloved couch or armchair, find some enriching toys to give your feline to keep them happy and healthy. That way, everyone can live in peace.
While perusing the pet store shelves, you may notice that most toys, treats, and beds are lacking in style. For some reason, a lot of pet products are behind the curve when it comes to aesthetically pleasing design. With DIY, you can maintain your dream home’s modern decor while giving your pet everything you need.
This DIY scratching post is sure to please your furry friend. Plus, it will look great hanging on your wall! Say goodbye to boring beige cat furniture.
Gather Your Supplies
This DIY requires a few easy-to-find supplies. To make it even more budget-friendly, head to a second-hand store to find a frame. You can easily upcycle it at a low cost.
Here’s what you’ll need:
Small rug
Scissors
Measuring tape
11" x 14" picture frame
Measure and Cut Your Rug
You may not even have to head to the store to find the carpet material for this project. If you remodeled your home, you likely already have some leftover carpet in the garage.
But if not, you can find carpet samples at local carpet retailers. Or you can use an indoor/outdoor decorative rug (like the one we used), a door mat, or even a bath rug. Just be sure your material isn’t unraveled or damaged—that’s the cat’s job.
Before using your scissors to cut your carpet, use a measuring tape to measure the size of the picture frame. Then, use those measurements to cut a rectangular section of your carpet that will fit perfectly inside the picture frame. If the first try isn’t perfect, just keep trimming away.
Your regular pair of scissors will sometimes work for this, but it depends on the material you use. If it’s difficult to cut with scissors, try using sharp shears.
Secure in Frame
Once you have cut your material to match the size of your frame, it’s time to secure them together.
First, remove the sample photo and glass cover from your picture frame. These parts aren’t necessary and you can keep them for future crafts or recycle them if you have no use for them.
If your picture frame has a kickstand on the back, it may be necessary to remove it. This frame will be hung on the wall and a kickstand on the back may make it too bulky, causing it to stick out when it’s hung up.
Secure your piece of rug or carpet inside your picture frame. Be sure to apply the cardboard backing piece that came with the frame onto the back to make sure things stay in place.
Display
The moment we’ve all been waiting for is here! Now that your DIY is finished, you’ve got an adorable piece of wall decor that looks great and satisfies your kitty to no end. Every cat will appreciate this fun toy. And when it wears out, just replace the material inside to keeping things looking new.
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Cows are a favorite barnyard animal among kids of all ages. If you want to make your own cow, there are many different ways to do it, so you can choose a craft based on the materials you have on hand.
Steps.
1. Paint the spool white. Cover all sides of a large wooden spool with white craft paint. Allow the paint to dry.
Note that the spool will be the body of the cow.
Since you need to paint the entire spool, separate the work into two steps so that the paint can dry properly. Paint the cylindrical side first, and after it dries, paint the top and bottom faces.
2 Add black blotches. Cover the cylindrical side of the spool with spots of black paint. Let the paint dry.
These spots should extend all the way around the body and should look like the spots on a cow.
To make the spots more realistic, give them rounded but uneven sides and try to avoid creating any patterns or symmetry when laying them out.
3. Trace the spool onto card stock. Place one flat, circular face of the spool on top of white card stock. Trace around this circle in pencil.
Cut out the resulting circle. You'll use it for the face of the cow.
Note that white felt or white craft foam could also work if you do not have white card stock.
4. Add detail to the face. Give the cow a pink snout, black nostrils, and two googly eyes.
To create the nose, begin by drawing a semi-circle over the bottom half of the card stock circle. Color in this semi-circle with pink marker or paint, then draw to small black ovals near the top edge of the semi-circle.
For the eyes, glue two googly craft eyes halfway between the snout and the top edge of the spool.
5. Cut out two ears. Draw two small leaf shapes on white card stock. Cut out both shapes for use as the cow's ears.
Keep the ears proportionate to the size of the face. Each one should be approximately the same size as one craft eye.
6. Add detail to the ears. Use pink marker to color in the center of each ear on one side of the paper.
The pink center should follow the basic shape of the overall ear outline, but it should only take up roughly one-half to three-quarters of the ear.
7. Cut two rectangles. Sketch out two rectangles in pencil, making each one long enough to wrap around the side of the spool once. Each should only be as wide as the width of one ear.
Cut out both rectangles when finished.
Each rectangle will turn into two legs. One will become both back legs and the other will become both front legs.
8. Add details to the legs. Color both tips of both rectangles in black marker. These black tips will become the cow's hooves.
9. Attach the paper pieces. Use craft glue to attach the face, ears, and legs to the spool. Let the glue dry before continuing.
Glue the face onto one flat end of the spool.
Position both ears over the top edge of the same end, gluing them in place behind the face.
Glue the center of one leg rectangle to the bottom of the cylindrical side, positioning it near the face end of the spool. Repeat with the other leg rectangle, putting it closer to the opposite end of the spool. Allow the ends of both rectangles to hang loose.
10. Attach a pipe cleaner tail. Clip a small piece of black pipe cleaner and use craft glue to attach it to the blank flat end of the spool. Let the glue dry.
The tail should be roughly one-half to three-quarters the length of the spool body.
11. Admire your work. The spool cow is finished and ready to show off.
Crafters, makers and builders create beautiful items out of raw materials. If you are a crafter that is unable to think of your next project, there are many ways that you can get new ideas. Crafting is one of the most popular subjects of blogs, magazines, classes and more, and its popularity has only risen as the Internet has become an easy way to share methods, techniques and projects. Depending upon how you like to learn, you can choose the most comfortable option. Select your specific area of crafting and search for the newest crafting projects using these avenues. Read more to find out how to get ideas for crafts and projects.
Steps.
1. Join a quilting bee, knitting circle or scrap booking club. Monthly meetings give the opportunities for exchanging ideas, showing off projects and doing group projects.
This is also a great way to meet people with similar interests and form lasting friendships. Crafting often allows you to talk to other people and learn their stories. Many rural communities have quilt guilds, knitting bees and craft circles that stay intact for decades.
2. Take night classes. Most cities have a group that is devoted to community education and gives a catalog of classes at a small fee. These can include anything from jewelry making to scrap booking to wood working.
Search online for "Lifelong learning classes" in your town or "Community education." Most classes happen once or twice a week over a period of months and they teach you new skills and give you many ideas for projects.
3. Get a subscription to a do-it-yourself magazine. Depending upon your preferences, there are many options. Magazine subscriptions can be bought from a website, Amazon, or a magazine prescription service, and it is a good idea to look for the best offer.
Good options for crafters include Martha Stewart Living, Card Maker, This Old House, American Style, Creative Knitting, Do-It-Yourself, Ready Made, American Craft, Crafts and Hobbies, Quilter, Paper Crafts, Creative Woodwork and Crafts, Car Craft. Knit'N Style, Sew News and Creating Keepsakes.
You may want to go to a supermarket and buy a few issues of each of these magazines to decide which one would be the best monthly subscription.
4. Get involved with Blogger, WordPress and other blogging platforms. Once you have a profile you can subscribe to craft blogs and check back whenever you need a fresh idea.
You may hear of craft bloggers referred to as "choggers." Start by checking out popular blogs, such as Bakerella, Cuteable, Dollar Store Crafts, Not Martha and the Pearl Bee. There are thousands of blogs to choose from, and they may also provide an email newsletter.
5. Sign up for email newsletters from magazines like Real Simple, Better Homes and Gardens and Ready Made. They will send you weekly or monthly issues depending upon your preferences, filled with new ideas from their crafters-in-residence.
6. Inquire at local stores if they do classes. In order to drum up business, stores often provide classes for a small fee as long as you buy the materials. For instance, a knitting business may teach their patrons how to use a new set of knitting needles in order to sell more sets.
7. Go online and simply search for patterns or templates. If you are looking for children's crafts, this is the fastest and least expensive option. If you cannot afford patterns for quilting and knitting, there are a number of free online templates that you can find using an Internet search and a printer.
If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.
Steps.
1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.
If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.
Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.
2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.
Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.
Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.
Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.
3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.
Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.
Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,
4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.
Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.
If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.
Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.
5. Keep on sorting.
Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.
Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.
6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.
Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.
For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.
7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.
8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.
9. Finished.
Tips.
Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.
Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.
Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.
Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.
Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.
Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.
Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.
Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.
Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.
Things You'll Need.
Craft supplies.
Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.
Whether you're looking to make a cute Easter decoration or just a fun craft to do with your kids, a pom pom sheep fits the bill. It's easy to make your own pom pom with just some yarn and a piece of cardboard, so you can customize your sheep to look exactly the way you want. Add a simple head made of craft foam and googly eyes and pipe cleaner legs, and you have an adorable farm animal to decorate your home.
Part 1 Creating the Pom Pom.
1. Cut out a piece of cardboard. To make the pom pom for the sheep, you’ll need a cardboard rectangle to wrap your yarn around. For a large sheep, cut a piece that’s 3-inches by 5-inches (8-cm by 13-cm). For small sheep, cut a piece that’s 3-inches by 2-inches (8-cm by 5-cm).
You can adjust the size of the cardboard to customize the size of sheep if you prefer.
After you cut the cardboard, it’s a good idea to wrap it in packing tape. That will allow the yarn to slide off it more easily when you’re finished making the pom pom.
2. Wrap the yarn around the cardboard. For the pom pom, you need fluffy white, cream, brown, or black yarn. Instead of cutting the yarn to a certain length, remove an end from the ball or skein and begin wrapping it around the cardboard widthwise. For a large sheep, wrap the yarn around the cardboard 120 times. For a small sheep, wrap the yarn around the cardboard 75 to 80 times.
Use one hand to hold the end of the yarn in place as you wrap it side by side in a single layer on the cardboard. Once you’ve covered the cardboard, start creating a second layer over the first. Continue working until you’ve wrapped the yarn around the suggested number of times.
While white, cream, brown, or black yarn offers the most realistic sheep look, you can substitute your favorite color yarn, such as pink or blue.
3. Bend the cardboard to slide off the yarn. When you’ve completely wrapped the cardboard with the yarn, use your fingers to bend the cardboard slightly widthwise to contract it. That makes it easier to carefully slide the yarn from the card.
Be gentle as you pull the yarn from the cardboard and make sure to hold it together so it stays together.
4. Tie twine around the middle of the yarn bundle. Once you’ve freed the yarn from the cardboard, use a piece of twine to secure the bundle in the middle. Tie the yarn as tightly as you can to ensure that it stays together.
If you don’t have twine, you can substitute a piece of yarn. However, twine is stronger than yarn so it usually does a better job of holding the pom pom together.
5. Cut the loops of the yarn to form the pom pom. When the yarn is securely tied with the twine, use a pair of scissors to cut the loops. This will create the pom pom shape for your sheep.
After you cut the loops, you may need to trim some pieces to get the look that you want for your sheep.
Part 2 Making the Head and Legs.
1. Draw the shape of the sheep’s head on craft foam and cut it out. To make the sheep’s face, you’ll need a piece of black craft foam. Use a pencil or pen to draw the shape of the sheep’s head, complete with ears, on the foam as a guide. Next, carefully cut the head out with a pair of scissors.
If you’re not comfortable drawing the sheep’s head freehand, you can find templates online at various craft websites, such as Dad Can Do .
The proper size for sheep’s head will depend on how large your pom pom is. It should fit on one end of the pom pom.
If you used dark yarn for the pom pom, use white craft foam for the head.
You can use a craft knife to cut out the head if you prefer.
2. Stick googly eyes on the head. Once you’ve cut out the sheep’s head, select two googly eyes that will fit on it side by side. Apply your favorite type of craft glue to the back of the eyes, and press them onto the foam head.
You can find googly eyes in a variety of sizes at the craft store.
Make sure to let the glue dry for at least 5 minutes, so you can be sure the eyes won’t fall off when you begin to assemble the sheep.
3. Fold two black pipe cleaners in half. For the sheep’s legs, you’ll need two black pipe cleaners that are approximately 4- to 5-inches (10- to 13-cm) long. Bend the pipe cleaner in half to create a “V” shape.
Part 3 Assembling the Sheep.
1. Glue the head to the front of the sheep. Add a dab of glue to the back of the sheep’s head that you’ve made. Carefully press it onto your pom pom, and hold it for 30 to 60 seconds to ensure that it is secure.
You can use any type of glue to secure that works on fabric to secure the head to the pom pom. However, you may have an easier time if you use a hot glue gun.
2. Thread the pipe cleaner front legs through the pom pom. Take one of the bent black pipe cleaners and push it through the pom pom on one side near the front. Make sure that the pipe cleaner is threaded through the yarn pom pom so it is secure.
Some thread may come loose when you thread the pipe cleaner through. You can trim any errant strands.
3. Press the second pipe cleaner through the back of the pom pom. After you’ve secured the pipe cleaner for the front legs, push the second one through the pom pom near the back. Pull it through to the other side to create the second set of legs.
Take care with your placement of the second pipe cleaner. You want to ensure that it’s far enough back from the first to provide proper balance for the sheep to stand.
4. Adjust the pipe cleaners to allow the sheep to stand. Once both pipe cleaners are threaded through the pom pom, bend the four ends to create feet that help the sheep stand. You may need to adjust the length of the pipe cleaners on each side to ensure that the sheep is balanced properly.
Tips.
You can use the same technique to create a create a pom pom bunny and/or chick to serve as Easter decorations.
This is a kid-friendly activity, but be sure to supervise their use of scissors and the hot glue gun.
Things You’ll Need.
Cardboard.
A ball or skein of fluffy yarn in white, cream, black, or brown.
There are lots of ways to recycle plastic soda bottles, and turning them into adorable penguins is one of them. With a little bit of paint, time, and creativity, you can turn 2 plastic soda bottles into an adorable penguin. If you have a lot of plastic soda bottles then you can create an entire penguin family!
Part 1 Assembling the Base.
1. Find 2 plastic soda bottles. The large, 2-liter (67.2-oz) bottles will work the best for this, but you can use smaller soda bottles too. Look for the kind that have the 4 bumps on the bottom. These bumps will make the feet and the hat.
The color of the bottles does not matter. You will be painting it.
2. Remove the labels and wash the bottles. Peel the labels off first, then wash the bottles inside-out with soap and warm water. Be sure to remove all sticker residue. Dry the bottles with a towel.
Wipe the bottles down with rubbing alcohol as well. This will remove any oils that might keep the paint from sticking. Let the bottles dry; this should only take a few seconds.
3. Cut the bottles in half and recycle the top sections. A craft blade will work the best for this, but you can do it with a sharp pair of scissors too. Young children should be supervised during this step.
If the cut edge is jagged, cut it smoother with a pair of scissors.
For a smaller penguin, cut the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) off of the first bottle, and cut the second bottle in half. The shorter half will make the bottom.
4. Tuck 1 bottle inside the other to make a capsule. Turn the bottles so that the cut edges are facing one another. Slide the first bottle into the second bottle by about 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). If the bottles won't fit inside one another, cut a 1⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) slit into 1 of the bottles first; place this edge on the inside.
Make sure that the 4 bumps on the top and bottom of the capsule line up.
5. Glue the bottles together, if desired. If the bottles are loose, glue them together with tacky glue or super glue. Pull the bottles apart, and paint the inside rim of 1 bottle with glue. Slide it over the other bottle.
Hot glue is not recommended because it is too bulky.
Alternatively, you can keep the bottles loose, and use the penguin as a gift box.
Part 2 Painting the Penguin.
1. Paint the entire capsule black, then let it dry. Take the capsule outside or into a well-ventilated area. Set it down on a sheet of newspaper, then coat it with black spray paint. Let the paint dry for 15 to 20 minutes, then turn the capsule over. Spray paint the bottom and let it dry completely.
Hold the can 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) from the capsule, and spray using a side-to-side motion.
If the paint is too thin, let it dry completely, then apply another coat of paint.
If you don't have spray paint, paint the capsule using black acrylic craft paint and a paintbrush.
2. Paint the penguin's face and belly white, then allow them to dry. Use a pointed paintbrush and white acrylic craft paint to outline the white face and belly of the penguin. Fill your outline in using a flat paintbrush. Let the paint dry, then add another layer if the first layer is too thin. Let the second layer dry too, if you added it.
Look at pictures of real or cartoon penguins to get ideas for the placement of the white parts.
Make sure that 2 of the bumps on the base of the capsule line up with the bottom of the penguin's belly. These are its feet!
If you are making a smaller penguin, use the shorter half to make the bottom.
3. Give the penguin a widow's peak, if desired. Use a pointed brush and black acrylic craft paint to draw a V-shape at the top of the penguin's white face. Fill the V-shape in with black paint so that it blends in with the body. For an even nicer finish, made the sides of the V-shape curved so that it looks like Mickey Mouse's widow's peak. Let the paint dry before moving on.
4. Paint 2 eyes and a beak using acrylic craft paint. Use a yellow upside-down triangle for the beak, and 2 black dots for the eyes. For a more realistic beak, paint a yellow or orange circle, then draw a horizontal black line going through the middle.
Look at pictures of cartoon penguins to get ideas.
You can also hot glue 2 buttons or 2 googly eyes for the eyes.
If you don't have yellow paint, cut a triangle out of yellow paper, and glue that on instead.
Part 3 Adding Optional Details.
1. Give your penguin character with lashes, eyebrows, and/or blush. You don't have to do any of these, but they can really give your penguin personality. Use a very thin brush for the lashes and/or eyebrows, or a paint pen. Use a larger pointed brush to apply pink paint for the blush.
If you want to give your penguin visible yellow feet, paint the 2 bumps in the front (under the white bellow) with yellow acrylic craft paint.
2. Paint the top half of the bottle to turn it into a hat. The 4 bumps on top of your penguin's head can easily turn into a hat. Paint a line around the penguin's head, just above the eyes, then fill in everything above that line. Use whatever color you want.
If you have a molded line just below the bumps, you can use that as a guide instead.
3. Let the hat dry, then add some details. You can make the hat look more hat-like by painting or drawing some stripes or spots onto it. Use a thin, pointed paintbrush and acrylic craft paint in a contrasting color to do this. Let the paint dry when you are done.
Use a paint pen for thin stripes or small dots.
4. Glue a pompom to the top of the hat, if desired. You can make the pompom yourself out of yarn, or you can buy it from the kids section of a craft store. Hot glue the pompom to the top of the hat, right between all 4 bumps.
Choose a pompom color that matches the designs on your hat. If you did not add designs, then use a contrasting color instead.
5. Tie ribbon around the neck to make a scarf. Find some ribbon that goes well with the hat. Wrap the ribbon around the penguin's neck, then cross the left end over the right end. Bring the left end up through the gap, then tighten it. This is just like starting to tie a pair of shoes!
Glue both ends of the ribbon to the penguin so that they stay down.
If you are turning this into a gift box, make sure that you keep the ribbon below the seam.
You can also cut a long, skinny strip out of felt, and use that instead of ribbon. Cut fringes into each end for additional charm.
Question : How do we make the eyes?
Answer : Cut out two small black circles, and two slightly larger yellow circles. Glue the black circles onto the yellow circles, and glue those onto the white face.
Question : We don't have to remove the bottle cap?
Answer : If you have removed the cap, you will have to tape or otherwise plug the hole on the top to "sculpt" the rounded top of the head on, so it is not recommended to remove the cap. However, taping or a cork replacement can be used.
Question : Can I use a plastic bottle?
Answer : Yes, but it may be hard to paint.
Tips.
If you want your penguin to have a pointy hat, discard 1 of the bottom halves and keep 1 of the top halves. Use the top half as the hat.
Use paintbrushes made from sable or taklon bristles. Do not use boar bristle, horsehair, or camelhair.
Spray the penguin with varnish or sealer, if desired. Do this after you finish painting, but before you add pompoms and scarves.
You can spray the capsule with paint primer first to help the paint stick better.
If you are worried about the paint chipping, spray the capsule with paint primer before you start painting.
Warnings.
Use low-temp hot glue guns to avoid blisters and burns. Do not use high-temp hot glue guns.
Things You'll Need.
2 plastic soda bottles, Craft blade, Black spray paint, Acrylic craft paint (white, yellow, and black).
Acrylic craft paint, 2 contrasting colors, Flat and pointed paintbrushes, Ribbon or felt, Pompom, Hot glue, Tacky glue or super glue.
Countries across the world craft objects, jewelry, furniture and more based on their own customs, culture and history. If you are interested in buying crafts from a country different from your own, then you have a number of options in your town and across the world. You may also choose to buy crafts from third world countries in order to support fair trade. Buying fair trade crafts helps to prevent low wages and unfair working conditions. There are some guidelines you should follow to ensure you are buying from a country that is benefiting from your purchase. You may need to do a little Internet research to ensure you are buying the crafts you prefer. Read on to find out how to buy crafts from third world countries.
Steps.
1. Research fair trade organizations. There are a number of non-profit companies that choose to keep consumers up to date about fair trade options. These include fairtraderesource.org, chfinternational.org, and fair trade organizations of specific countries, such as fta.org.au.
2. Decide if you want to buy crafts from a specific country. For example, you may admire the bamboo furniture from Malaysia or carvings from Africa. Search for a non-profit organization that tells you where to find shops that sell that country's goods.
For example, there is a Bangladesh cooperative that represents 60,000 artisans.
3. Go to eBay or Overstock. Both of these websites have acquired companies that previously sought to promote fair trade crafts. Ebay acquired World of Good, and you can buy handcrafted gifts from third world countries at worldofgood.ebay.com.
Overstock.com provides a fair trade site, called overstock.com/Worldstock-Fair-Trade. You can find anything from jewelry to furniture and more.
4. Search for local stores that specialize in fair trade crafts. Most mid to large-sized cities have a few fair trade stores. You can often find the stories behind the manufacturers of the crafts.
Ask the store how they acquired the crafts. The best way to tell if you are buying from a certified fair trade, third world craft carrier is to ask how the crafts were acquired.
5. Visit world craft museums, such as The Museum of Craft and Folk Art or the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco. These museums fill their gift shops with crafts that are well-crafted and distinctive. Check the museum websites for crafts that can be bought online.
6. Visit summer markets in your town. People who have emigrated from other countries often stock booths filled with their home country's crafts. Peruvian alpaca crafts are common at summer craft markets.
7. Visit a third world country and buy the crafts straight from the source. While this is the most expensive option, it is the best way to ensure you are buying straight from a craftsman. Research craft workshops where you can visit and buy directly after viewing the creation of the crafts.
For example, in St. Kitts there is a batik factory where the batiks are made and then sold. In Peru, you can visit an alpaca farm where yarn is created, died, woven and sold.
If you like medieval weaponry capable of flinging arrows through the air, try building your own ballista. A ballista consists of a frame, a launch ramp with a slide, and a tensioned string. You can build all of these components with popsicle sticks, thread, and other basic supplies. Add a launch pin to create a small ballista that enables you fire bolts with a pull of a string.
Part 1 Assembling the Frame.
Drill holes through a pair of 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. Measure 1 in (2.5 cm) from the ends and mark the spots with a pencil. Before working on the sticks, lay down a piece of cardboard to protect your work surface from damage. Then, use a drill bit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter to create the holes.
The simplest way to create a ballista is with inexpensive popsicle sticks, available online, at craft supply store, and other areas.
If you wish to make a larger ballista, trying using larger pieces of wood or foam in place of the popsicle sticks.
Poke a second, smaller hole next to each of the bigger ones. Measure about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) along the stick’s length from one of the existing holes. Use a steel probe 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in diameter or a similar sharp tool to poke all the way through the wood. Position the hole so it’s slightly lower, closer to the edge of the stick, than the larger hole. Create a matching hole on the opposite end of the first stick and create corresponding holes on the second stick.
Each popsicle stick has 4 holes when you’re finished, a pair of holes on either end. The bigger holes are used to secure the ballista frame together, while the smaller holes are for the launcher.
To test the smaller holes, try squeezing a wood cocktail skewer through them. Get skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Widen the holes as needed to fit the skewers.
Cut a pair of wood blocks to 1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm). The easiest way to do this is to purchase wood crafting blocks. If you can’t find the exact size you need, cut the blocks to size with a crafting knife or another tool. Get blocks that are about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. Scrape away the excess wood until both blocks are the same size.
Shop online or visit a craft store to see what kind of wood blocks are available. You can use scrap wood if you wish, but crafting blocks are much smoother and easier to work with.
Be careful when using a crafting knife. The blocks are small, so it’s easy to slip while handling the blade. Work slowly to avoid potential accidents.
Image titled Build a Ballista Step 4
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Glue the blocks to the ends of the popsicle sticks. Heat up a hot glue gun loaded with a fresh stick of white glue. Spread a layer of glue over the ends of the 1 of the sticks, then lay the blocks on top of that. Align the longer ends of each block with the edges of the popsicle stick. Spread another layer of glue on top of the wood blocks to secure the second popsicle stick.
Make sure you align the holes in the popsicle sticks before gluing them in place. The holes need to be positioned evenly over one another in order for the ballista launch its arrows later.
Part 2 Building and Attaching the Launch Ramp.
Cut about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) off the end of another popsicle stick. Trim this new stick to size by measuring and slicing it apart with your craft knife. Another safe way to do this is by snapping the end off with scissors or wire cutters. Trim any stray wood fibers off the cut end so it looks smooth and even.
Cutting popsicle sticks can be tricky since they are pretty fragile. Work slowly, gradually deepening the cut you make. Bend the popsicle stick back and forth along the groove you cut to prevent it from splintering.
If you have experience with wood cutting, try using a fine saw blade like a band saw. Always wear earmuffs, eye goggles, and a dust mask while operating a saw.
Trim a pair of cocktail skewers to 5 1⁄2 in (14 cm) in length. Get some wood skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Measure and mark the skewers as needed with a ruler and pencil. Then, cut the skewers evenly on both ends to trim off the sharp points. The skewers need to be the same length as the popsicle stick you cut, so use it for comparison.
Wood skewers are available online in addition to some craft stores, general stores, and restaurant supply stores.
Cut the skewers by using a craft knife or by snapping the ends off with wire cutters.
Glue the skewers to the top of the popsicle stick. Place the skewers on the long edges of the popsicle stick you cut. Lay down a bead of glue from a hot glue gun to secure the skewers in place. Trim the ends of the skewers as needed to smooth them out and make them even with the ends of the stick.
Now you have a basic launch ramp. The skewers form a groove for you to load the ballista’s ammunition.
Secure the ramp to the center of the frame you built. Get your popsicle stick frame with the holes drilled in it. Turn the ramp over and spread some hot glue on the end of it. Then, secure it over the bottom popsicle stick in the frame. Put it as close to the center of the frame as possible, aligning the end of the ramp with the back edge of the frame.
Hot glue dries relatively quickly, so you don’t need to worry too much about the frame and ramp components coming apart. Set the pieces aside as needed for 10 to 20 minutes to give the glue a chance to solidify. It takes about 24 hours to fully cure.
Part 3 Creating the Launcher Mechanism.
Break a 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle stick into halves. Divide the stick evenly into halves about 2 1⁄4 in (5.7 cm) long. These sticks are smaller than the frame pieces and are part of the ballista’s launching system. Use a craft knife or wire cutters to split the stick across its width and then smooth out the cut end.
Purchase a separate bag of smaller popsicle sticks online or at a craft store. Alternatively, cut smaller pieces of wood boards or foam if you’re making the ballista with those materials.
Poke a hole 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each stick. Use a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-thick steel probe or a similar tool sold at craft stores. Make a single hole near the rounded end, leaving the cut end alone. Pierce all the way through the wood.
Pull pieces of string through the larger holes in the frame. Getting the string through the holes is tricky, so have a cocktail skewer nearby to push it through. Slide both ends of a string 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter through the top hole, then through the respective hole in the bottom frame piece. Leave the string long enough to form small loops above and below the ballista frame.
Try using twine from a craft store for a strong material that isn’t likely to break when you’re having fun launching makeshift arrows.
Tie small skewers to the frame using the string loops. Cut a couple of wood skewers down to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length. Start with the top loop by placing a skewer inside of it and pulling the string tight. Then, tie the loose ends of the string into a knot with another skewer underneath it.
Lay the skewers flat against the frame pieces. Orient them so they’re perpendicular to the frame pieces. Then, tie the knots as tight as you can to hold the skewers in place.
Place the small popsicle sticks between the strings and tighten them. The popsicle sticks you cut earlier fit between the frame pieces. Slide about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of the cut ends of the sticks between the ropes. Then, twist the bottom skewers clockwise to tighten the string as much as possible.
When the small sticks are positioned correctly, you can move them back and forth without them sliding out of place. This is necessary for moving the ballista’s launcher to let arrows fly a long way.
Slide another skewer into each of the inner holes on the frame. Cut 2 more skewers to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length to fit those holes. Make them look nice and even like the other skewers before fitting them through the frame. Make sure the skewers go all the way through the respective holes on the top and bottom frame pieces.
Protect the strings by tying the ends to the bottoms of these skewers, if possible. If you do this, the skewers maintain the string’s tension, leading to much more impressive launches!
Tie a length of string between the launcher’s stick arms. Set the ballista so the back end is in front of you. Thread the 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string into the holes in the small popsicle sticks hanging from the ballista frame. Knot both ends of the string to secure it, then trim off the excess length.
The exact length of string you need to form the launcher depends on the material you used. Try threading the string through both holes before cutting it from the spool. Always cut it longer than you need so you can knot it tightly.
Part 4 Making the Slide and Supports.
Glue a block underneath the back end of the launch ramp. Get another 1.5 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood block. The block needs to be approximately the same width as the ramp in order to keep the ballista stable while you’re firing it. Set the ramp in the glue, aligning its back edge with the back end of the block.
Installing the block makes the ballista ramp slanted so it launches arrows higher into the air.
Cut grooves in a small block to create the ballista’s slider. Cut the grooves into a small piece of wood about 1.5 × 1 × 1⁄2 in (3.8 × 2.5 × 1.3 cm) in size. The launcher needs separate grooves in the front and back, both as thick as the string you used when tying the launcher arms together. Make the 2 grooves about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from either end. Use a crafting knife to scrape away the wood, making the grooves circular and about half as deep as the block.
Try making the slider out of a wood peg bought online or a craft store. If you use scrap wood, make sure it is solid and smooth so you can slide it along the ramp.
Create a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood cap to fit on top of the slider. Simply cut a smaller popsicle stick to the exact length and width as the slider. Cut the cap into a rectangle with no rounded edges. When you’re ready to install it, put the launcher string into the slider’s front groove. Spread some hot glue, then press the cap onto the top of the slider.
Test the cap out by putting it on the slider before you add the glue. Check that it’s big enough to cover the slider and pin the string in place.
Drill 45-degree angle holes in a block of wood. This block needs to be about 2 × 1 1⁄2 × 1⁄2 in (5.1 × 3.8 × 1.3 cm) longer than the one on the back end of the ballista. Position the holes about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the smaller sides of the block. Use a drill bit approximately 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide to drill diagonally towards the center of the block.
Drill all the way through the other side of the block. Keep the holes as even as possible to build a stable base for the ballista frame.
Fit wood dowels into the holes on the block. Use a pair of 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-thick dowels cut to about 4 in (10 cm) long. Slice them using a craft knife, wire cutters, or a saw if you have one. Then, put some hot glue on the ends of the dowels and push them as far into the holes as possible.
Look online or at a local craft supply store for the perfect dowels for your project.
Glue the block to the front side of the frame to stand the ballista up. Flip the block over and spread a thick bead of glue across its length. Lift up the front end of the ballista to stick the block to the bottom of the frame. After pressing the pieces firmly together, consider letting the glue dry for about 10 minutes.
If the block is wider than the frame, you could try whittling it down with a carving knife or craft knife. As long as your base is stable, doing this isn’t necessary, but it can make the ballista look a little neater.
Part 5 Completing the Firing Mechanism.
Glue long spacer pieces to the sides of the back block. Cut the spacer pieces so they are about 4 in × 1.5 in (10.2 cm × 3.8 cm) in size. Spread more hot glue, then press them against the block supporting the back end of the ramp. These parts are there to support the rest of the parts you need to add, so they don’t need to be pretty and can be longer than the block itself.
Make sure the spacer pieces stick out from underneath the ramp a little bit. The pieces that attach to them need to extend over the ramp or else you won’t be able to fire the ballista.
Cut 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) off the ends of a large popsicle stick. Measure and mark the length you need to cut on one of the 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. You need 2 of these pieces, so cut off both ends of the stick. Leave the rounded ends of the stick intact.
Cut the stick carefully with a craft knife, wire cutters, or saw. Work slowly to avoid splintering the wood and smooth out the edges as needed.
Make a hole about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each piece. Create the holes by poking a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe or a similar sharp tool through the wood. Keep the holes along the center part of the wood. Make them as even as possible to ensure the ballista parts line up appropriately when you install them.
Glue the popsicle ends to the side pieces on the block. The sticks need to be near the tail end of the block. Also, position the sticks about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) up from the bottom edge of the block. Spread glue over the wood and press them onto the block to hold them in place.
Make sure the ends of the sticks extend over the ramp. The holes need to be about level with the top edge of the slider in order to string the launch rope through it.
Bend a metal rod to fit through the holes in the wood. Get a metal rod about 4 in (10 cm) long and about 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in width to fit through the holes. Pull the launcher piece back and thread the rod through its second groove and the holes in the sticks. Then, use pliers to bend one end of the rod back over itself. The rod forms a launch pin that stays in place until you're ready to use it.
Test the pin by attempting to move it. If it feels loose, bend the end back on itself more to keep the pin in place. Leave the other end of the pin alone so it can slide out of the hole.
Tie a string to the end of the launch pin. Cut some 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string to complete the launching mechanism. Try trimming it to about 3 to 4 in (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in length. Knot the string a few times to the bent end of the launch pin to quickly pull it out when you wish to fire the ballista.
Keep the string at a comfortable length. If it is too long or short, you may have a hard time pulling out the pin in a quick, fluid motion.
Cut cocktail skewers to about 5 in (13 cm) for ammunition. Trim the pointed ends off of as many skewers as you wish to use. When you’re ready to use the ballista, put a single arrow on the chute after pulling the slide back. Yank the string to pull the metal pin out, causing the slide to spring forward, sending the arrow through the air.
Always cut the points off of the skewers to avoid accidents. Also, never shoot the arrows at others. They can hurt, especially from bigger launchers.
Tips.
Ballista arrows are reusable. Collect the arrows after you fire them to ensure you have a steady supply of ammunition.
Small ballista designs can be blown up to create big rigs capable of throwing arrows long distances. Many big ballistas use wood planks and thick rope like the kind available at hardware stores.
Warnings.
Firing a ballista can be dangerous. To be safe, clear an area outdoors and fire it when no one else is around.
If you choose to use a saw to cut components, follow proper safety procedures to avoid injuries. Always wear earmuffs, goggles, and a dust mask.
Things You’ll Need.
Ruler, Craft knife, Wire cutters or scissors.
6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks, 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle sticks.
1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood blocks, 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-diameter wood skewers, 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-diameter wood dowels.
1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit, Drill.
1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe, Hot glue stick, Hot glue gun.
7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string, 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-diameter metal rod.
So... you've been crafting for a while... and so many people have asked you how you do that craft that you're considering putting on a workshop? Perhaps your local craft shop has an interest in you coming in to demonstrate your craft? Here are some things to consider...
Steps.
1. Think through your needs. You will need space, supplies, a method of communicating so that everyone can hear, good lighting, comfortable room, etc.
2. Plan your presentation. Make a lesson plan of sorts... what will you say? What order will you present it in? How will you make your presentation interesting and easy to remember?
3. Register the participants in some way... either by paying for the class or by RSVP. This will allow you to get a handle on how many people to plan for and how much you will need in the way of supplies and elbow room. This also gives you contact information for each participant so you will be able to follow up later if you want.
4. Arrange for space. If you have a large number of potential participants and space is at a premium, you could do several smaller classes instead of one larger one. On the other hand, if you have a large room, you may need some sort of public address system so that everyone can hear.
5. Arrange for supplies and make detailed lists of supplies necessary to do this craft. Nothing is so small that it does not matter. Things like pins, needles, measuring tape etc. can make or break the class.
6. Space chairs and tables comfortably. Too few tables for too many people leads to frustration for both you and your students.
7. Anticipate as many needs as you can... and make arrangements for them. The more thinking you do in advance, the less apologizing you will do during and after the class.
8. Recruit enough helpers. If the group is over 5 people, you'll need assistants who can help each participant individually with their projects.
Tips.
Give a last date to register at least 2 days in advance so there is time to buy the required items.
If the materials are costly, have participants either purchase their own supplies or pay for them up front when they register. Not enough materials is a major frustration and time waster.
It is better to have too many supplies left over than not enough. If you must err, err on the generous side.
How to Decorating a Book Cover with Craft Materials.
When your favorite book is starting to look a little worn around the edges, or you’re in the mood to give the cover a makeover, try making your own book cover or creating a special cover using craft supplies. Or, if your used book is ready to be donated or replaced, don’t get rid of it just yet. You can easily repurpose old book pages into a beautiful paper wreath to decorate your home or office.
1. Choose colors and patterns for your book cover. Everyone might have unique design preferences, but there are some helpful color design guidelines to follow. Use complementary colors, such as blue and orange, yellow and purple, or red and green for a vibrant design. For a monochromatic or minimalist look, try using one color in various shades and patterns. Use analogous colors (colors close to each other on a color wheel) such as blue-violet, blue, and blue-green.
2. Use washi tape to create a design. You can use washi tape to easily create diagonal, vertical or horizontal stripes of different colors and patterns. You can also form patterns like checkerboard, chevron or herringbone. Or you can make fun designs representing your interests and hobbies, like writing, video games or animals.
3. Form a collage of stickers or pictures. This is an easy way to customize your book cover. Place stickers where you’d like them on your book cover or tape or glue small pictures to the cover. Slightly overlapping the stickers or pictures will create a collage effect, and you can continue to add more as you get them.
For a cool effect, cut pictures into shapes first, then affix them to your book cover in an interesting pattern.
4. Keep customizing with a reusable chalkboard cover. If you’re using a brown paper bag book cover, dress it up by gluing a chalkboard vinyl rectangle to the front cover. Use this space to count down days until a special occasion, like graduation; to label your book with your name; or to jot down quick notes on the cover.
Warnings.
Be careful when using the craft knife to cut your book cover.
Do not leave a hot glue gun unattended. Be sure to turn it off and unplug it after use.
From pill boxes to room organizers, plastic containers are an essential part of everyday life. Though they do their job well, these containers are generally designed with simplicity in mind, meaning there’s plenty of room to decorate. Using simple materials like paper, stickers, paint, and ribbon, you can turn any plastic container into something truly fabulous.
Method 1 Covering with Patterns and Colors.
Use patterned cloth to cover the container. Find a cloth pattern that matches your style and cut out enough to cover the container. Use a paintbrush to apply a layer of mod podge to both the back of the cloth and the plastic, then press your cloth into it. As it sets, apply another layer of mod podge over the top and let it dry.
Try to tie the patterned cloth into the room itself, such as using polka-dotted fabric in a room with polka-dotted wallpaper or zebra-striped cloth in a room with black and white furniture.
Use patterned paper to line the container. Patterned paper works great for containers that are translucent. Find a pattern you like and cut out enough to line the plastic. Smooth out the paper and apply a layer of mod podge to both it and the inside of the container. Stick it to the plastic and apply another coat on top, making sure the paper remains smooth.
Try to use colors that match the container’s environment, like bright pastels for a baby room or light, muted colors for a kitchen.
Use paint to add color to your container. Wash your container with dish soap and warm water. When dry, gently sand the surface with 220 to 300-grit sandpaper, then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. Use painter’s tape to cover areas you don’t want to paint, then apply a coat of primer to the container. Once it has dried, you will be able to paint the plastic with spray, acrylic, or enamel paint.
Use stencils to paint or spray specific designs onto your container, such as zig-zags or checkerboards.
Use patterned duct tape as a simple decoration. Duct tape is an incredibly versatile tool, and since it comes in many different colors and patterns, it provides a quick solution for spicing up drab plastic. Find a pattern of duct tape you like and simply press it onto the container. For small and portable containers, a small amount of duct tape will add personality without bulk.
Method 2 Using Creative Labels.
Cut out labels to create a simple organizing system. Sometimes, the best way to decorate a container is to simply label it, especially if you need to use it in a professional environment. Cut a piece of single-colored construction paper into a thin strip, then write a label on it in clear, bold letters. Fix the label to your container using tape or glue.
To make your labels pop, glue them to a slightly larger piece of colored paper before putting them on the container.
Add lettering to create labels and messages. For larger containers, craft lettering may be a good option. If your letters come with adhesive backs, apply them as is. If they don’t, use a small amount of glue to keep them in place. Along with names and standard labels, letters can be used to write:
A motivational message for containers holding school supplies.
A favorite quote or book passage for a media box.
A joke label, like the word ‘Zoo’ for a container filled with stuffed animals.
Print labels from a computer. Creating labels on a computer allows you to add anything from photos and graphics to small and instructional text. Programs like Word and Pages can create simple labels with borders, while more advanced programs like Adobe InDesign may be appropriate for specialized labels. When you have a design made, print it on thick paper, cut it out, and glue or tape it to your container.
Label your container with objects from inside it. If your container will be holding craft items, toys, or other small, non-perishable objects, use them to create a unique label. Instead of writing “LEGOs” on a plastic box, glue a couple bricks to the front. Instead of writing “Office Supplies,” glue a binder clip or marker.
Method 3 Accessorizing.
Add ribbon to your container. Ribbon and similar trims can give your container a more elegant feel. They can be applied using mod podge, hot glue, or tape, and some ribbon can simply be tied around the plastic. Look for ribbon designs that match the contents of the box, such as silver ribbon for keepsakes or colorful ribbon for candy.
Add stickers to your container. Stickers are a great, fast way to cover a plastic container. Simple stickers, like those found in dollar stores and craft books, are perfect and come in a variety of styles. Avoid bubble and 3D stickers if you plan on storing your container in tight spaces.
If your container holds a collection, put down a new sticker every time it grows.
Use hot glue to create glitter designs. When handled right, hot glue can be a fun alternative to traditional paint. Use a small marker to draw a design on your container. With a hot glue gun, carefully trace over it. Before the glue sets, pour glitter over it and let the whole thing dry. Shake off excess glitter and enjoy the shiny, fun design.
This method can also be used to label your container. Simply spell out a word, pour glitter on it, and let it set.
Use ink stamps to press patterns into the plastic. To give your container an old school feel, use ink stamps to create unique patterns and designs. Make sure to press your stamp firmly onto the container, that way the ink sets evenly. Stamps are available at craft stores like Hobby Lobby and Michael’s, and specialty or custom stamps can be ordered online.
Common stamp designs include hearts, religious symbols, fruits, and simple animals. Try to find one that matches the container’s environment.
Add craft jewels, flowers, and other items. Craft jewels, fake flowers, and other small objects are an easy way to add some fabulous flair to your container. Use hot glue or a bedazzling gun to apply the objects to the plastic. If you don’t have enough to make a uniform pattern, try arranging them in small shapes or designs, such as a heart or smiley face.
Create a collage on the container. If your container will be holding something particularly special, use its surface for a collage. This will make your container beautiful while clearly showing what it contains. Cut out portions of photos, magazines, newspapers, and similar printed materials. Using either hot glue or mod podge, paste individual items to the box, making sure they are flat and smooth. Some potential arrangements include.
Photos of your family or best friends, especially if your container is a keepsake box.
Pictures of book covers, movie posters, or album artwork, especially if your container is a media box.
Pictures of your favorite celebrities and characters.
There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!
Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.
1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.
2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.
3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.
4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.
If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.
5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.
6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.
7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.
8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.
9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.
Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.
Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.
10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.
11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.
12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.
13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.
14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.
15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.
Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.
If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.
16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.
17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.
Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.
1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.
Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!
2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.
If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.
3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.
4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.
5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.
6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.
7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.
If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.
8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.
9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.
Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.
If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.
10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.
11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.
Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.
Tips.
You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.
Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).
If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.
Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.
Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.
You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.
If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.
If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.
Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.
Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.
Warnings.
Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.
Things You'll Need
Making a Basic Penguin.
Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.
Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).
Making a Penguin Charm.
Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.
