Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!
Steps.
1. Get one white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper. Since origami can be a bit difficult (and not very exciting) for younger children, the good old method of cutting and gluing construction paper might be more up their alley. This method of making a paper penguin calls for one white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper.
2. Trace an oval shape onto the black construction paper. To form the body of the penguin, have the child draw an oblong oval on the black construction paper with either a white crayon or a piece of chalk so that they can see the outline. One fun and silly way to help the child make the shape is to have him or her place their shoe on the sheet and trace the outline of it.
3. Cut out the black oval. Using a pair of scissors (safety scissors for younger children), have the child cut out the black oval from the construction paper. When it comes to the eyes later, you can have the child either draw them on the white paper or cut pupils out of the black paper. For the latter, you can have the child cut those out now as well.
4. Trace a smaller oval onto the white construction paper. You can now have the child trace the white portion of the belly on the white construction paper. You can find something of the relative oblong shape to let the child trace it again or simply allow them to do it freehand.
5. Glue the belly to the rest of the body. Once the child is done tracing the white oval, allow them to cut the shape out of the construction paper. Then use a glue stick to glue the tummy portion to the rest of the body. Glue it closer to the bottom of the body portion than the middle since the head should be above it.
6. Cut a small triangle out of the orange construction paper. To make the beak for the penguin, have the child cut a small triangle out of the orange construction paper. The beak doesn't have to be an exact triangle, so you can have the child trace it first or simply cut one out.
For very small children, the size of the beak might be too difficult for them to cut out, so you may have to help with this step.
7. Glue the beak to the penguin's face. You have two different options to glue the beak to the penguin's face. You can either glue the triangle flat with one of the points facing downward, or you can actually make a little fold on one of the flat sides and glue it at the tab, which will make the beak stick out from the penguin's face.
8. Make the penguin's eyes. As mentioned earlier, you can have the child draw eyes on the white construction paper, cut them out and glue those to the penguin, or you can also have the child cut the whites of the eyes from the white construction paper, then use the black construction paper to cut out the pupils.
A third option if the child is too young to cut out such small circles is to have some googly eyes on hand from a craft store or the craft section of a big-box store. Young kids may have an easier time using a glue stick to attach google eyes instead.
9. Let the child customize it. This makes an easy basic shape for the penguin, and then the child can have fun customizing it. If the child cuts out two really flattened ovals from the black paper, he or she can glue them to the side of the body as wings. If the child wants to make feet for the penguin, you can have them trace a leaf or something else with the slight contours to give them the webbed shape.
Things You'll Need.
Scissors.
One white, one black, and one orange sheet of construction paper.
Paper butterflies are not only dainty and chic, they're also fun to make. Try your hand at origami to create one or, if you're more of a crafting beginner, fold a simpler version with pretty pleats. When you're finished, use your butterflies as decor or give them to friends and family as gifts.
Method 1 Folding an Origami Butterfly.
1. Fold the paper in half, then open it and fold it in half the other way. Make sure to crease both of the folds. Line up the edges when you’re folding to ensure the crease is directly in the center.
If your paper is the same color or pattern on both sides, it doesn’t matter which side you start on. However, if one side is white, or the “backside,” begin with that side facing up.
Choosing the Perfect Paper for Your Butterfly
If you're a beginner, choose oversized origami paper. Bigger sheets are easier to work with.
For easy folding, use origami paper, because it is thinner than regular paper.
If you want to add visual interest, opt for textured paper like linen or felt cardstock.
For a dramatic accent, pick foil paper in a shimmery metallic.
2. Fold the paper in half diagonally, open it, and fold on the other diagonal. Bring 2 opposite corners together to create the folds. Press down firmly to create defined creases. Repeat on both diagonals. Open the paper to lie flat after you fold it.
Your 4 folds should intersect in the exact center of the paper.
3. Bring the right and left creases together, creating a triangle. With the paper laying flat in front of you, press the right horizontal crease to the left one. As you do this, the paper should collapse onto itself in a triangle shape along the diagonal creases you made.
Press down on the triangle to crease the paper once it’s collapsed.
If the paper isn’t folding properly, go back over your original creases again. If they aren’t defined enough, the paper will have trouble falling into the shape.
4. Fold the 2 top corners into the center. When you created the triangle shape, it made 2 layers. Grab the corners on the top layer and line up their edges with the crease in the middle of the triangle.
Try to align the corners with the crease perfectly so they aren’t overlapping or so there isn’t a large gap between the edges in the center.
5. Flip the triangle over and fold the bottom up, leaving a small tip showing. You aren’t folding it completely half. Instead you’re folding it about 1/3 up from the base of the triangle. Hold the fold in place gently with your hand.
Don’t crease the fold.
6. Bend the top layer of the tip over the base. There are 2 layers at the tip of the triangle. Peel the top 1 forward, folding it over the wide triangle bottom you’re currently holding in place. The tip will be the head of the butterfly.
Crease the fold that you make with the tip. This will help secure the body of the butterfly in place and prevent it from unraveling.
7. Pull down the pieces from the bottom layer to create the lower wings. With the top layer folded over, bring the bottom layer of the tip in the opposite direction. The points of the 2 triangular pieces should be facing down, away from the folded head.
It may help to hold the folded tip with your thumb while you pull the other pieces down so that the butterfly doesn’t come apart.
Re-crease the folded tip after you arrange the bottom pieces if necessary.
Trim the edges of the wings if you want a smaller butterfly.
Method 2 Making a Pleated Paper Butterfly.
1. Fold the square piece of paper in half, creasing it. Line up the edges of the paper when you fold it to make sure you’re creating a line directly down the middle. Press firmly with your fingernail to form the crease.
Use any type of paper you’d like, whether it’s origami paper, colorful cardstock, or even pretty gift wrap.
The size of your paper doesn’t matter, as long as it’s square. If you have a rectangular piece, simply trim it down so all of the edges are the same length.
2. Unfold the paper and cut along the crease line. Use your scissors to cut the piece of paper in half. The groove of the crease should help guide your scissors in a straight line through the paper.
Make sure your scissors are sharp so they don’t tear or crinkle the paper.
If you have trouble cutting in a line, hold your scissors against a straight edge, like a ruler, while you cut.
3. Make accordion folds with one of the pieces of the paper. Fold a small piece lengthwise, then flip the paper over to fold it back onto itself. Continue flipping the paper from side to side as you fold along the entire length of the paper. Think of this motion as similar to making a pleat or a fan.
You can make the folds as thick or as thin as you'd like.
Keep the folds all the same thickness, no matter what size you choose.
4. Take the other piece of paper you cut and fold it in half lengthwise. Place the 2 longer edges on top of each other. Then create a crease by pressing down along the fold.
Try to make the crease as straight and even as possible so it splits the paper directly in half.
5. Open it up and fold the 4 corners in toward the center crease line. Line up the edges straight along the crease. Your paper will now be in the shape of a hexagon, with 2 pointed ends formed by the folded corners.
Leave the corners folded. If they won’t stay in place, use a piece of double-sided tape or a little bit of glue under the flap.
6. Flip the paper over and make accordion folds on each side of the crease. Fold one half the paper in towards the center. Then repeat on the other side. This will be the top half of the butterfly’s wings.
Make the folds as large or as small as you’d like, depending on the size of your paper.
7. Bend both pieces of pleated paper in half. Press the pleats together and hold the paper between your thumb and forefinger. Carefully fold one end onto the other, creasing it firmly.[14]
The paper won’t stay folded, but that’s okay. You just want to make a crease, so the paper is in a V-shape.
8. Place 1 piece above the other and tie them together at the center. Arrange the 2 pieces so that they form a butterfly shape. Pinch them together while you tie string or cord around both pieces.[15]
To secure the 2 pieces together better, you can add a dab of craft glue or hot glue in the middle.
Having a friend hold the pieces together while you tie the string makes it easier to get a tight knot.
You can also use ribbon or a pipe cleaner instead of string.
9. Pull out the pleats to open up the wings. Scrunched-up folds don’t exactly resemble a beautiful butterfly. Gently pull the pleats apart so that the 2 pieces of paper look like 1 large wing on each side instead of 2 disjointed ones.[16]
Be careful not to rip the paper when you’re arranging the pleats.
Fun Ways to Use Your Butterflies
Hang them on a string or ribbon to drape as a whimsical garland in your room.
Glue the butterflies to a piece of paper or a canvas as 3D art.
Give them as gifts around the holidays.
Place them on a bookshelf or coffee table as decor.
There are several fun ways to create a paper dog, and luckily all of them require very few materials! Create a fun miniature dog that can stand on its own legs out of origami paper, or make a folded dog face with a playful expression. You could even make paper dog hand puppets to play with!
Method 1 Folding an Origami Dog.
1. Select a piece of origami paper for your dog. Depending on what you have available, choose either a 3 by 3 in (7.6 by 7.6 cm), 6 by 6 in (15 by 15 cm), or 10 by 10 in (25 by 25 cm) piece of paper. The bigger the sheet of paper, the bigger your dog will be. Brown, tan, or white are common dog colors, but don’t hesitate to choose something more unconventional for your origami creation.
If you don’t have origami paper, use something else that is thin and easy to fold, like newspaper, magazine pages, or even wrapping paper. Cut the substitute into the right dimensions so you have a perfectly square piece of paper.
2. Fold the square of paper in half to create a triangle. Take the top-left corner and fold it across so it meets the bottom-right corner, forming a triangle shape. Run your finger along the fold to create a crease.
Use the back of your nail or something hard, like the body of a pen, to make your crease lines more defined.
3. Open the square back up and fold it in half diagonally the other way. Unfold the paper so it is a square again. Make another triangle by folding the top-right corner across to the bottom-left corner. Press down along the fold line to make another crease.
It’s really important in origami to have straight, defined creases. That is what enables your creation to stand upright once you’ve finished.
4. Unfold the square again and place it in front of you. Open up the piece of paper and set it in front of you. Make the bottom of the square parallel to your body.
There should be an “X” formed by the creases on the unfolded piece of paper.
5. Bring the bottom-left corner to the center point of the square and fold. With the square unfolded in front of you, take the bottom-left corner and place its tip in the center of the square, where the 2 creases intersect to create an “X”. Press the fold down to make a crease.
Making firm creases will also keep the folded pieces of paper in place while you work on other sections. Otherwise, you might risk things coming undone and losing your place in your project.
6. Repeat the previous step to bring all the corners to the center. One at a time, take each remaining corner (top left, top right, bottom right) and fold them so their points are in the center of the square. Fold and press down the crease for each corner.
Essentially, this step turns the original square into a smaller square. All the sides should still be equal to one another.
You will now have left, top, right, and bottom sides, with all points meeting in the middle of the square.
7. Open the left flap, fold it in half, and then fold it back in place. Unfold the left-hand side piece of paper. Fold the point in half, so that the tip of it meets the intersection of your previous fold line. Then fold the entire left flap back into place.
There should be an open triangle when you look down at your square.
8. Take the tip of the right flap and fold it back to overlap the edge line. Leave the flap folded to the center point. Take the tip of the corner that is in the center, and fold it back about 2/3rds of the way. Make your crease so that the top forms a triangle that overhangs the outer edge of the square.
Leave the top and bottom flaps in place and don’t do anything to them at this point.
This fold will eventually become the dog’s tail.
9. Fold the entire square in half lengthwise. Pick up the piece of paper. Fold it in half evenly, lengthwise, to create the left and right sides of your origami dog. When the fold is done, set the paper down in front of you so that the pointy tail is pointing to the right.
Take your time when lining up the center fold. If the lines aren’t straight, your dog will be wobbly.
10. Unfold the top flap and crease it from the top-left to bottom-right corner. Unfold the flap of paper from the top section of the dog so that its point is pointing toward your body. Then fold the entire section of paper up, and create a diagonal fold that starts at the top-left corner and finishes at the bottom-right corner.
At this point in the folding process, you’re making the dog’s head and legs.
11. Refold the right edge along the crease line. After making the diagonal fold, take the point of the piece of paper you just folded up, and bring it back down along the original crease line. This creates the slant of the dog’s “leg.”
The bottom edge should be in line with the ground if you were to pretend to stand it up.
12. Repeat the previous 2 steps on the opposite side. Flip the piece of paper over. Unfold the flap of paper and make a diagonal fold from the top-right corner to the bottom-left corner. Then fold the paper back down along its original crease line to form the other leg.
Even though you’re nearing the end, remember to take your time and make your folds as straight and defined as you can.
13. Pull out the fold inside the dog’s “nose.” When you look at the piece of paper, you should now see the dog’s tail, body, triangle legs, and triangle head. Look under the dog’s nose and carefully pull out the fold. This creates the dog’s mouth and gives it a more realistic look.
The crease line creates a jawline for the dog.
14. Draw a nose and eyes onto the dog to complete it. Take a marker and put an eye on each side of the dog, as well as a nose. For the nose, just fill in the area around the front tip of the head. You could also draw a little smile or any other embellishments you feel are appropriate.
Once you get the hang of the pattern, you can make an origami dog in just a few minutes.
Method 2 Creating a Dog Head.
1. Choose a piece of origami paper for your project. Origami-specific paper comes in squares, which means it’s ready to use and you don’t need to cut it at all. The larger the piece of paper you choose, the bigger the dog head will be. Choose a color for your dog, whether that is brown, black, white, tan, or an unconventional color, like blue or green.
If you don’t have origami paper, cut a thin sheet of paper, like newspaper or wrapping paper, into a square.
2. Fold the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner to make a triangle. Match up the 2 corners so that the sides are equal. Press the fold down firmly to create a crease.
To help crease the paper, push the fold down with the back of your nail or with the body of a pen. The stronger the crease, the better definition your dog head will have.
3. Bring the 2 bottom corners together to make a smaller triangle. Leave your first fold in place. Bring the bottom points together and make another fold to form a smaller triangle.
Take your time when making your folds and line up the edges neatly.
4. Unfold the triangle once, and place it so the tip is pointing at your body. Undo the last fold you did so that just the large triangle is left. Position the paper so that the top of the triangle is pointing at you.
You’ll use the center crease as a guide for your future folds.
5. Make a diagonal fold on the right-hand side, starting at the center crease. Make a bigger fold for bigger dog ears or a smaller fold for smaller ears. Make the crease start at the center line and fold the right-side corner down at a diagonal angle.
Keep the fold lined up with the center crease to create a proportional face.
6. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side. Try your best to create the same angle so that your dog’s ears are the same size. Start the diagonal fold at the center-crease line.
When you look down at your paper, you should see a very angular-looking dog head.
7. Fold back the bottom and top points to create straight lines. Fold back the top tip of the dog’s head just enough so that there is a flat line connecting the 2 ears. Fold the bottom tip back to create a jaw line for the dog.
If you need to, use a little bit of glue or double-sided tape to secure the points to the back of the dog’s head.
8. Draw the rest of the dog’s features to complete your project. Use a black marker to draw eyes, a nose, and a mouth on the paper. You can get as detailed as you want to, but for basic features, make circles for eyes and an upside-down triangle for the nose. For the mouth, make a “J” attached to a backwards “J” coming out of the tip of the dog’s nose.
You can get as creative as you’d like with designing the dog’s face. Try making spots on the ears or giving it whiskers or a tongue.
Method 3 Making a Hand Puppet.
1. Fold a piece of paper lengthwise into 3 equal sections. Use a piece of construction paper or computer paper, or anything that comes close in size to 8.5 by 11 in (22 by 28 cm). This piece of paper will be the dog’s head, so use whatever color you’d like for that. White works well, but brown, black, or even an unconventional color, like red, would be fine.
Avoid using really thin paper for this craft. You’ll be sticking your hands into the folds, so it needs to be a little thicker to hold up.
2. Glue the last fold down with your glue stick. To help your craft stay together, apply some glue to the back of the last fold. Press it down so it adheres to the other side.
Glue sticks work great because they don’t take long to dry. If you don’t have a glue stick, try using double-sided tape.
3. Fold the paper in half so the “seam” is on the outside. Bring the short ends of the paper together, making a crease in the middle. Fold the paper so that the side you just glued is facing up.
If you accidentally fold it the wrong way the first time, that’s okay. Just unfold it and reverse the direction.
4. Fold the open edge to the bottom crease on each side. On each side of the paper, take the top edge and fold it back so it’s in line with the bottom, and make a crease. After you’ve done this on each side, hold up the paper and check that it makes an “M.”
The top and bottom sections are where you’ll place your fingers to make the puppet talk.
5. Cut out the dog’s ears and tongue and glue them into place. Use different colors of construction paper to cut out oblong shapes for the ears and tongue. Use your glue stick to attach them to the paper. Place the tongue inside the “mouth” and glue the ears on the top of the paper, one on each side of the head.
For example, if you used white paper for the dog’s head, use red paper for the tongue and black paper for the ears.
6.Draw on the eyes and nose to complete your puppet. Use a black marker to draw circles for eyes and an upside down triangle for the nose. You could even put 3 small dots on either side of the nose to make whiskers. Use your imagination and enjoy the decoration process!
To use the hand puppet, simply put your thumb in the bottom flap and your fingers in the top flap. When you open and close your hand, the dog’s mouth will open and close, too.
Tips
Take your time when creating a new craft! It can take a while to get the hang of things, but keep at it and you’ll be able to make various paper dogs in no time.
If you get a paper cut, rinse it off with warm water and mild soap, and put a bandaid around it to keep it clean.
Papier-mâché eggs are both easy and fun to make. You can paint them bright colors and use them as Easter decorations, or you can paint them to look like real wild bird eggs and display them in your room. They do take a few days to dry, but they are a great, hands-on activity, which many children love. When you are finished, you can even fill them with candies, and crack them open later!
Method 1 Making Basic Eggs.
1. Blow up a balloon, tie the end into a knot, and set it down in a small cup. The cup will prevent the balloon from rolling away while you work.
2. Mix 2 parts white school glue with one part water in a small bowl. This will be your papier-mâché glue.
3. Tear some paper into small squares or rectangles. Newspaper works best, but you can also use plain newsprint paper from the craft store instead. Don't cut the paper; the ragged edges will help the paper seal together and give you a smoother finish.
Consider using both newspaper and tissue paper. This way, when you do multiple layers, you will be able to see which one you are working on.
Avoid using plain printer paper or construction paper. Both are too thick and too stiff for this project.
4. Dip a paper strip into the glue, and place it onto the balloon. Drag the strip across the edge of the bowl as you pull it out. This will remove any excess glue. Place it down near the top of the balloon. Use your fingers or a paintbrush to smooth the paper down so that it lays flat against the balloon.
5. Continue applying the paper strips until the balloon is completely covered. Overlap the strips slightly as you work from one end of the balloon to the other. Work your way from the top of the balloon all the way down to the tail end. Do not cover the tail, or you won't be able to remove the balloon.
6. Apply a second layer of paper. You don't have to dip these strips of paper into the glue. Simply stick them to the wet paper that's already on the balloon, and use your fingers or a paintbrush to smooth down the edges.
Consider using a tissue paper or plain newsprint for this layer. This way, you will be able to see what's cover and what isn't.
Two layers is ideal for eggs that you want to cut open. If you want a sturdier egg, apply a third layer. You may have to use some extra glue for this one.
7. Hang the balloon up to dry. Use a clothespin to clip the balloon to a hanger or clothesline. Wait for it to dry completely before moving on. It may take up to 2 or 3 days.
8. Pop and remove the balloon. Once the egg is completely dry, gently tug the balloon tail up so that you expose a bit of the balloon. Pierce it with a pin or pair of scissors and wait for the balloon to deflate. Once it is completely deflated, pull it out and discard it.
9. Cover the hole with 2 to 3 layers of paper and glue and wait for it to dry. Use the same technique as you did for the rest of your egg. If you wish to fill your egg, then do so before covering up the hole.
10. Paint the egg a solid color using acrylic or tempra paint and wait for it to dry. To make the paint really stand out, coat the entire egg using white primer and let it dry. Once you have your white base, you can paint your egg any color you want.
11. Add patterns to the eggs, if desired. Once your base color has dried, you can paint designs onto it. You can also draw designs using glitter glue or puffy paints instead.
Great Easter designs include: stripes, dots, and squiggles. Try to use soft, pastel colors.
12. Consider giving the eggs a final coating of gloss. Once all the paint has dried, spray or paint the eggs with a glossy sealer. You can even use a glittery sealer to give it some extra sparkle.This will help make them more durable.
If you'd like, you can cut the egg in half using jagged, zigzag lines so that it resembles a cracked open egg. When you are done, you can fill each half with fake grass, and place a little chick or bunny figure in each.
Things You'll Need : Water balloon, Newspaper, Paintbrush, Water, White school glue, Small cup, Scissors, Clothespin.
Method 2 Making Tissue Paper Eggs
1. Blow up a water balloon, tie the end into a knot, and set it down into a cup. The cup will hold the balloon sturdy while you work.
2. Pour some liquid starch or decoupage glue into a bowl. You can also mix your own glue by using 2 parts white school glue and 1 part water.
3. Cut the white tissue paper into 1½-inch (3.81 centimeters) squares and set it aside. This will make the base for your egg. One sheet will be enough to coat three eggs.
4. Cut the colored tissue paper into 1½-inch (3.81 centimeters) squares and set it aside. This will make the outside of your egg. You can make it all one color or many different colors. Some crafters have noted that lighter colored tissue paper, such as yellow, shows the layering and overlapping more.
To make polka dot eggs, punch a ¾-inch (1.91 centimeters) circle in the center of your square using a scrapbooking hole punch. Discard the circles, and use the squares so that you get white polkadots on your egg.
5. Start applying the base layer using the white tissue paper. Brush on some of your glue onto the balloon, and press a piece of white tissue paper onto it. Smooth it down with a brush dipped in more glue. Overlap the pieces as you cover the entire egg.
Start applying the tissue paper at the top of the balloon and work your way towards the tail. Don't cover the tail up.
6. Apply the colored layer. If the tissue paper on the balloon is already damp, you do not need to apply more glue. Simply press a piece of colored tissue paper onto it, and smooth it down with a little more glue. Remember to overlap the pieces by a little.
If you are making polka dotted eggs, be careful not to cover up the white polka dots!
7. Hang the balloon up to dry overnight. You can do this by clipping the tail of the balloon to a hanger or to a clothesline. This can take 2 to 3 days.
8. Pop and remove the balloon. Make sure that the balloon is completely dry, then gently tug on the balloon tail until you expose a bit of the balloon. Pierce the balloon with a pin or a pair of scissors. Wait for the balloon to deflate, then pull it out and discard it.
9. Fill the egg with candy, if desired. Small candies, such as chocolate eggs, work great! Be careful not to overfill the egg; it is still very fragile. If you do not wish to fill your egg, you can move onto the next step.
10. Cover the hole with 2 to 3 more layers of colored tissue paper. Use the same technique as you did when first covering the egg. Let the patch covering the hole dry before moving on.
Because these eggs are made from colorful tissue paper, they don't need to be painted. You can still decorate them, however, with glitter glue if you'd like.
11. Give the eggs away as gifts or use them as decorations. To open the eggs, simply tear them apart. They make great gifts for Easter baskets!
Things You'll Need : Water balloon, White tissue paper, Colorful tissue paper, Paintbrush, Liquid laundry starch or decoupage glue, Small cup, Scissors, Clothespin.
Question : Can I fill a paper mache creation with something to make it heavier?
Answer : Sure! Candy works well if you want it to be like a pinata.
Question : Which one is stronger?
Answer : Method 1 will give you a stronger, more durable result, as newspaper is thicker than tissue paper.
Question : Which method is better to create the eggs?
Answer : It depends on what you are looking for. The 1st method is better for making stronger eggs, for example, to put heavier objects in. However, the 2nd method is better if you want to put candy in, as they are much easier to open up, especially for children. If you're thinking of using them for decorations, method 2 would make for prettier, delicate decorations indoors, but method 1 is more advisable for outdoor decorations as the eggs will be more durable against the weather.
Tips.
For a vintage design, use newspaper and don't paint the eggs. Instead, give them a coat of glossy varnish.
You should tear newspaper and newsprint, but you don't have to tear tissue paper.
You can also do this project using regular balloons as well, but it will take more time to dry.
If the egg collapses when you remove the balloon, stick a pen, pencil, or chopstick into it and push the dents out as best you can.
Paint the egg to resemble real bird eggs. Look up pictures of interesting bird eggs online, and try to copy them as best you can. You can create speckles by splattering paint over the egg.
For something quick and easy, decorate your egg with stickers. If this is for Easter, use Easter themed stickers.
If you made your egg using newspaper and wish to paint it, add a layer of blank newsprint or white tissue paper. This way, the letters won't show through.
Decoupage shapes cut out of paper onto your finished egg instead of painting the designs.
Punch out shapes out of tissue paper using scrapbook punches, and press these shapes onto your egg while it is still wet.
Try printed paper that has patterns on it. Origami paper and printed tissue paper is great for this. Avoid using thick or glossy paper, such as gift wrap; it is too thick and stiff for this project.
Warnings.
Do not get impatient when it comes to drying. The papier-mâché must be completely dry before you remove the balloon. If you remove it too soon, the whole egg will collapse!
How to Make a Paper Snake Using Construction Paper.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. You can easily make a snake out of construction paper rings. The more rings you add, the longer your snake will be. Here's a list of what you will need to make such a snake:
Several sheets of construction paper, Red paper, Scissors, Glue stick, tape, or stapler, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes.
2. Find some construction paper. You will need at least three pieces. You can use all one color to make a solid-colored snake. You can also use different colors if you want a striped snake.
3. Cut the paper into 1½ to 2 inch (3.81 to 5.08 centimeters) thick strips. You will need at least 16 strips. The more you make, the longer your snake will be.
Consider stacking the paper and cutting several sheets at the same time. This will make the cutting part faster.
4. Make a ring out of a strip of paper and glue it shut. Pick up a strip of paper and bring the two ends together. Overlap them by about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters). Use a glue stick to hold them together. You can also use tape or a stapler instead.
Do not use white school glue or tacky glue. It does not dry fast enough. Your snake will fall apart before the glue dries.
If you are using a stapler, ask an adult to help you.
5. Slip a strip of paper through the ring and glue the ends together. Keep repeating this step until you run out of strips of paper. You can make your snake just one color, or you can make it many colors. You can give your snake a pattern, or make the colors random.
6. Add the tongue. Cut a skinny rectangle from red paper and cut a V shape into one end to make the fork. Fold the flat side over by about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) to make a tab. Glue the tab to one of the end rings.
7. Add the eyes right above the tongue. You can draw them on using a marker or crayon. You can also glue them on using some white school glue or tacky glue.
Things You'll Need.
Several sheets of construction paper, Red paper, Scissors, Glue stick, tape, or stapler, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Fold and cut a plain white paper plate in half with scissors. Fold the plate in half first, then use the crease as a cutting guide. For best results, use the kind that's made from cardstock and has a frilled edge, rather than the kind that's made from thick cardboard with a rim.
Set aside 1 of the paper plate halves; this will make the body.
2. Cut a dino head, tail, and spikes from the other paper plate half. Draw the shapes on the second paper plate half (the other one will be the body), then cut them out. Make sure that the limbs are proportionate to the body. Don't worry about the feet; you will be using toilet paper rolls for that.
Make the spikes about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall and wide.
Make the tail about 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wide at the base, and about 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the paper plate.
If you don't know how to draw a dinosaur head, tail, or spikes, look at pictures of cartoon dinosaurs online or in coloring books.
Use the brim to make the neck, if desired. Cut it off first so that you get a C-shape, then cut it in half. Use 1 of these halves to make the neck.
3. Glue the cut shapes to the other paper plate half. The straight edge of the plate is the bottom of the dinosaur, while the curved side is the back. Glue the tail to 1 end and the neck and/or head to the other. If you made spikes, glue them down the dinosaur's back.
4. Use scissors to cut an empty toilet paper roll into thirds. Keep 2 of the segments and discard the third. This will give you rings that are a little over 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. If you don't have any empty toilet paper rolls, you can use an empty paper towel roll instead.
If you're using an empty paper towel roll, cut 2 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) segments from it.
5. Cut a set of slits into the top of each toilet paper ring. You will be sliding the dinosaur's body into these slits, so make sure that they are directly across from each other. The easiest way to do this would be to squish the rings in half, then cut a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) long slit into each one.
6. Slide the dinosaur into the slits. Take the first roll, and turn it so that 1 slit is facing the dinosaur's head and the other is facing its tail. Slide the bottom edge of the dinosaur's body into the slit. Repeat this process for the other leg.
Slide the legs apart until they are on opposite sides of the plate.
7. Paint the dinosaur, then let it dry. Acrylic craft paints will work great for this, but you can also use poster paint too! Use the same colors and patterns for both the front and back. How long it will take for the paint to dry depends on what you are using. Expect to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.
You can take the dinosaur's body off of its feet in order to paint it. Do the front first, let it dry, then do the back.
Don't forget to paint the eyes and mouth! Alternatively, you can glue on some googly eyes after the paint has dried.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
White paper plate, Empty toilet paper roll, Scissors, Green acrylic paint or poster paint, Glue stick or white school glue.
How to Make a Paper Snake Using Toilet Paper Rolls.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. If you have any spare toilet paper rolls laying around, you can turn them into a fun, wiggly snake using a bit of paint and string. Here's a list of what you will need:
3 – 4 toilet paper rolls, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, Scissors, Yarn, Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes, Hole punch.
2. Gather three to four toilet paper rolls. If you cannot find that many toilet paper rolls, you can use some paper towel rolls instead.
3. Use scissors to cut each toilet paper roll in half. If you are using paper towel rolls, cut them into thirds.
4. Paint the toilet paper rolls and let them dry. You can paint them all one color. You can also paint each roll a different color. If you want to add patterns and designs, wait for the paint to dry first.
5. Choose two rolls to be your head and tail tip and set them aside. You don't want them to get mixed up with the body of the snake.
6. Punch four holes in each body piece. There will be two holes on the top, and two holes on the bottom. The holes need to be straight across from each other. Make sure that the top and bottom holes on each side are aligned.
7. Punch two holes into the head and tail tip piece. The holes need to be straight across from each other.
8. Cut some yarn into 5 inch (12.7 centimeters) long pieces. You will need enough pieces to tie the rolls together.
9. Tie the pieces together using the yarn. Don't tie the yarn too tight, or the snake won't be able to wiggle. There should be a gap between each piece. Try to hide the knot inside the snake.
10. Add the tongue. Cut a long, skinny rectangle from a piece of red paper and cut a V shape into on end. You can also use a piece of red ribbon. Glue the flat end inside the snake's head. Make sure that it is in the middle of the mouth.
If you want your snake to have a closed mouth, ask an adult to staple the end of the roll shut, right over the tongue.
11. Add the eyes. You can draw the eyes on using a crayon or marker. You can also paint them on. If you have any googly eyes at home, you can glue them on using white school glue or tacky glue.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Do not let these snakes to get wet.
Adult supervision is required for cutting steps.
Things You'll Need.
3 – 4 toilet paper rolls, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, Scissors, Yarn, Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes, Hole punch.
If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.
Steps.
1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.
If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.
Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.
2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.
Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.
Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.
Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.
3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.
Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.
Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,
4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.
Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.
If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.
Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.
5. Keep on sorting.
Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.
Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.
6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.
Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.
For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.
7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.
8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.
9. Finished.
Tips.
Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.
Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.
Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.
Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.
Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.
Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.
Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.
Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.
Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.
Things You'll Need.
Craft supplies.
Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. This is a simple snake that you can make out of a paper plate. It lays flat on your table, but springs up into a long snake when you hang it! Here's a list of what you will need:
Paper plate, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, spongers, etc, Pencil or pen, Scissors, Crayons, markers, or googly eyes.
Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, String, thumbtack, hole punch (optional), Rhinestones, glitter, etc (optional).
2. Cut off the raised edge of a paper plate. Be sure not to go too far into the middle or else it may not be big enough.
If you don't have a paper plate, use a small plate to trace a circle onto a large sheet of paper. Cut the circle out using a pair of scissors, and use that circle instead.
3. Paint or decorate the paper plate. You can paint the snake however you want. You can use a paintbrush, a sponge, or even your fingers. Snakes come in many different colors and patterns. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Paint the plate a solid color and let the paint dry. Next, dip a sponge into a different color and tap the excess paint off onto a paper towel. Then, dab the sponge all over the plate. If you want to add another color, wait for the first one to dry. This will give you a scale-like effect.
Wrap a sheet of bubble wrap (bubble-side-out) around a rolling pin and secure it with tape. Pour two colors of paint onto a palette and gently roll the pin across. Next, roll the pin across the plate. You will get a scale effect.
You can also color the other side of the plate to make the snake's belly. Most snakes have a plain, light colored belly. Do this once the top of the snake dries.
4. Draw a spiral on the back of the plate. Make the spiral about half an inch thick. It doesn't have to be perfect, but try to make it even all the way around. The center of the spiral will be the snake's head, so make it rounded.
You are drawing the spiral on the back so that you won't see it on the top.
5. Cut out the spiral shape. Start front the outside of the spiral, and work your way in. Try to do this right on the line, because you don't want the line to show on the finished product.
6. Add more decorations to the snake. At this point, you can paint on some extra designs to make your snake even more special. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Paint thick stripes across the spiral to make a striped snake, Paint Xs or diamond shapes across the spiral to make a diamond pattern.
Glue some colorful rhinestones using white school glue or tacky glue. Try not to add too many, or your snake will be too heavy.
Make some squiggles and patterns on the snake using white glue. Then, shake some glitter onto the glue. Tap off the excess glitter and let the glue dry.
7. Add the eyes onto the front of the head. You can draw the eyes on using a marker or crayons. You can also paint the eyes on. If you have googly eyes at home, you can glue them on using white school glue or tacky glue.
Remember, the head is the rounded part in the middle of the spiral.
8. Add the tongue. Cut a thin 1 to 2 inch (2.54 to 5.08) long rectangle out of red paper. You can also use a piece of thin, red ribbon. Cut a V shape into one end of the rectangle. This will be the snake's forked tongue. Lift the head up and glue the tongue under it.
9. Punch a hole through the snake if you want to hang it. You can punch the hole at the end of the tail, right between the eyes, or even in the tongue. Thread a piece of string through the hole and tie it in a knot. Use the other end of the string to hang the snake from a door knob, a stick, or even a thumbtack in the wall.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Do not let these snakes to get wet.
Adult supervision is required for cutting steps.
Things You'll Need.
Paper plate, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, spongers, etc, Pencil or pen, Scissors, Crayons, markers, or googly eyes, Red paper or ribbon.
White school glue or tacky glue, String, thumbtack, hole punch (optional), Rhinestones, glitter, etc (optional).
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Glue a sheet of green construction paper to a piece of thin cardboard. This will make your dinosaur nice and sturdy. If you don’t have any green construction paper, paint the cardboard with green acrylics or poster paint. Let the glue or paint dry before moving on.
The thin cardboard from cereal and snack boxes works great for this!
If you don’t have thin cardboard or construction paper, try green cardstock instead. You can also use poster paper, but you’ll need to paint it.
2. Draw and cut the body, head, tail, and leg shapes from the paper. Look up coloring book or cartoon pictures of long-necked dinosaurs, then break it down into separate body parts. Draw these separately with a pen or pencil, then cut them out. Here are the basic shapes you’ll need.
A long stem with an oval-shaped head, like a brontosaurus or apatosaurus.
A long, tapering tail, like a skinny triangle.
2 rectangular legs.
A mound- or lump- shaped body, like a semicircle but with rounded bottom corners.
3. Make spikes for the dino's back using paper and cardboard if desired. Glue the paper to the cardboard first (or paint the cardboard). Let the paint or glue dry, then draw 4 to 5 triangular spikes. Cut them out, then set them aside.
Use a different color of paint or paper for this. Orange is a great choice, but a lighter or darker shade of green will also work.
You can also make smaller rectangles for nails.
4. Use a pen to poke a hole in the ends of each limb. Make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) away from the center of each edge. A pen or pencil will work just fine for a cardstock dino, but if you used thin cardboard, use a nail to make the holes instead.
You’ll need holes in the following areas: base of the neck, base of the tail, and the top of each leg.
Don’t use a hole punch. The hole will be too big and the brad will fall through.
If you're a child, ask an adult to help you with this step, especially if you're using a nail.
5. Poke 4 holes in the body so that you can secure the limbs. Make 2 holes along the wider, flatter, bottom edge of the body. Poke another set of holes on the sides of the body for the tail and legs. As with the limbs, make the holes 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) from the edges.
Don’t poke the neck and tail holes too close to the top; make them closer to the bottom so that your dinosaur has a humped back.
Don’t place the legs too close together. Keep them closer to the bottom corners of the body.
6. Use brads to secure the limbs behind the dinosaur's body. Stick a brad through the front of the neck hole on the body. Slide the neck piece onto the back of the prong, behind the body. Pry open the back of the brad, then press the prongs flat against the back of the dinosaur.
Repeat this step for the tail and both legs. Always add the limbs to the back of the body, not the front.
Make sure that the limbs are facing up as well, otherwise your dinosaur won’t match!
Brad prongs can hurt if they get under your nail. Consider using a butter knife to pry them apart.
7. Glue the spikes to the back of the dinosaur. Flip the dinosaur over so that you can see the back. Draw a line of glue along its back, then add the triangular spikes. Make sure that the flat bases are touching the dinosaur's back while the pointy tips are sticking out.
If you made nails for the dino, glue them to the bottom of each leg.
White school glue and glue sticks will work just fine for this. Hot glue is not recommended because it's too bulky.
8. Give the dinosaur a face. Here is where you can get a little creative. For a simple dinosaur, use a black marker to draw an eye and mouth. For a fancier dinosaur, use hot glue or white school glue to attach a googly eye to the dinosaur's face.
Give your dinosaur more character by adding eyebrows or eyelashes.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
Green construction paper, Orange construction paper, Glue stick, Thin cardboard, 4 brads, Pen or nail, Scissors, White school glue (optional), Googly eye (optional).
Cows are a favorite barnyard animal among kids of all ages. If you want to make your own cow, there are many different ways to do it, so you can choose a craft based on the materials you have on hand.
Steps.
1. Paint the spool white. Cover all sides of a large wooden spool with white craft paint. Allow the paint to dry.
Note that the spool will be the body of the cow.
Since you need to paint the entire spool, separate the work into two steps so that the paint can dry properly. Paint the cylindrical side first, and after it dries, paint the top and bottom faces.
2 Add black blotches. Cover the cylindrical side of the spool with spots of black paint. Let the paint dry.
These spots should extend all the way around the body and should look like the spots on a cow.
To make the spots more realistic, give them rounded but uneven sides and try to avoid creating any patterns or symmetry when laying them out.
3. Trace the spool onto card stock. Place one flat, circular face of the spool on top of white card stock. Trace around this circle in pencil.
Cut out the resulting circle. You'll use it for the face of the cow.
Note that white felt or white craft foam could also work if you do not have white card stock.
4. Add detail to the face. Give the cow a pink snout, black nostrils, and two googly eyes.
To create the nose, begin by drawing a semi-circle over the bottom half of the card stock circle. Color in this semi-circle with pink marker or paint, then draw to small black ovals near the top edge of the semi-circle.
For the eyes, glue two googly craft eyes halfway between the snout and the top edge of the spool.
5. Cut out two ears. Draw two small leaf shapes on white card stock. Cut out both shapes for use as the cow's ears.
Keep the ears proportionate to the size of the face. Each one should be approximately the same size as one craft eye.
6. Add detail to the ears. Use pink marker to color in the center of each ear on one side of the paper.
The pink center should follow the basic shape of the overall ear outline, but it should only take up roughly one-half to three-quarters of the ear.
7. Cut two rectangles. Sketch out two rectangles in pencil, making each one long enough to wrap around the side of the spool once. Each should only be as wide as the width of one ear.
Cut out both rectangles when finished.
Each rectangle will turn into two legs. One will become both back legs and the other will become both front legs.
8. Add details to the legs. Color both tips of both rectangles in black marker. These black tips will become the cow's hooves.
9. Attach the paper pieces. Use craft glue to attach the face, ears, and legs to the spool. Let the glue dry before continuing.
Glue the face onto one flat end of the spool.
Position both ears over the top edge of the same end, gluing them in place behind the face.
Glue the center of one leg rectangle to the bottom of the cylindrical side, positioning it near the face end of the spool. Repeat with the other leg rectangle, putting it closer to the opposite end of the spool. Allow the ends of both rectangles to hang loose.
10. Attach a pipe cleaner tail. Clip a small piece of black pipe cleaner and use craft glue to attach it to the blank flat end of the spool. Let the glue dry.
The tail should be roughly one-half to three-quarters the length of the spool body.
11. Admire your work. The spool cow is finished and ready to show off.
Pinwheels are a beautiful decoration and delight children of all ages. Use them to decorate your yard for a party, or happily watch your children as they admire the bright colors whirling together. Once you know how to make a basic pinwheel, you can make a fancier one with more spokes. You can also make a disc-shaped pinwheel. It won't spin, but it'll look lovely as a wall decoration or ornament.
1. Cut a sheet of patterned scrapbooking paper into four strips. Get some 12-inch (30.48-centimeter) square scrapbooking paper. Use a metal ruler and a craft blade to cut the paper into four, 3-inch (7.62-centimeter) wide strips.
Some scrapbooking paper has a white strip along the bottom edge for the price and label. You should trim this off first.
These pinwheels are meant to be used as decorations on gifts, walls, or ornaments. They do not spin like regular pinwheels.
2. Fan-fold the strips widthwise. Take your first strip, and fold the narrow edge over by ½ to 1-inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters). Use that as a fold as a guide for the rest of the paper. Repeat this step for the remaining three strips.
3. Consider adding a design to one of the long edges. Fold your strip back up so that it looks like a closed fan. Cut an angle into one of the narrow edges. Work one strip at a time, otherwise, the paper will be too thick to cut neatly.
You don't have to do this step. This will simply give the pinwheels a more ornate edge.
4. Attach the pieces together to make a longer strip. Place a strip of tape against one of the narrow ends of your first strip. Place it against the narrow end of the next strip, then press them together. Keep connecting the strips until you have one long strip.
If both ends of the strips are folded in opposite directions, they will make a V or ^ shape. Trim off one of the ends until both are folded in the same direction.
5. Attach the first and last strips together to make a disk. Run some glue or a strip of double-sided tape along one of the narrow ends. Bring the other narrow end towards it, and press the two together.
6. Flatten the disk. If the disk won't lay flat, you will need to glue a support to the back. Flip the disk over so that the back is facing you. Choose a dowel, straw, or skewer that is the same height as the disk. Hot glue your chosen stick down the center of the disk, right between two ridges.
7. How glue an embellishment to the front of the disk. For a fancy look, you can cut a small circle out of coordinating paper, then glue it to the front to cover the hole. For a more rustic touch, you can use a large button instead.
8. Cut a circle cut from cardstock to the back of the pinwheel. This will make it easier to secure the pinwheel to walls, gifts, and other items. It would be best if you use a matching color, but you can use a different color as well.
Use a cup, jar, or lid to trace the circle.
9. Use double-sided tape to secure the pinwheel. Place a few strips of double-sides tape onto the back of the pinwheel, right over the cardstock circle. Secure the pinwheel to your desired gift of banner.
If you are securing the pinwheel to a wall, consider using double-sided, foam mounting tape instead.
Alternatively, you can string several pinwheels together to make a banner.
10. Finished.
Tips.
Make your pinwheel out of thin plastic, such as acetate, binder dividers, or stencil plastic.
Wrap a pretty ribbon in a spiral around the dowel before adding the pinwheel.
For an even fancier pinwheel, paint the stick with acrylic paint or spray paint beforehand. Let it dry before adding the pinwheel.
You can use a drinking straw instead of a dowel. It won't be as durable, but it will be easier to assemble.
Glue a bead, button, or charm to the pin on the front of your pinwheel for a fancy touch.
Make your own double-sided scrapbooking paper by gluing two sheets of paper back-to-back.
Decorate plain paper with rubber stamps.
You can make a simpler pinwheel by securing everything with a thumbtack to the side of a pencil eraser.
Cows are a favorite barnyard animal among kids of all ages. If you want to make your own cow, there are many different ways to do it, so you can choose a craft based on the materials you have on hand.
Steps.
1. Cut up the cardboard tubes. You can start with two empty toilet paper rolls or one empty paper towel roll.
If you use the paper towel roll, cut it in half. Refer to each half as a separate roll for the remainder of the instructions.
Cut one of the rolls in half. Save one half for use as the cow's head and discard the other half.
Cut 1 inch (2.5 cm) off one end of the other roll. This roll will become the body of the cow. Discard the excess 1 inch (2.5 cm).
2. Create ear slits. Using pencil, lightly sketch two ovals onto one end of the head piece, positioning them on opposite sides of the cylindrical perimeter.
These ovals will become ears. Each one should be about one-quarter the length of the tube.
Carefully cut along three-quarters of each oval outline, leaving the innermost end of each oval alone. Fold up the cut portions so that they stick out from the sides of the tube, creating ears.
3. Snip and fold horn slits. Draw two small triangles near one end of the tube, centering them in between both ears.
These triangles will become horns. They should be smaller than half the size of one ear.
Carefully cut along two edges of each triangle, leaving the innermost edge alone. Fold up the cut portions so that they stick out from the side of the tube, creating horns.
4. Cut out two egg carton sections. Cut two compartments out of an empty egg carton. Discard the rest of the carton.
These two sections will become the legs of your cow. One section will form both front legs and the other will form both back legs.
Carefully cut out the front and back of both sections, leaving the sides and bottoms intact.
5. Paint everything white. Paint both cardboard tubes and both egg carton sections white. Allow the paint to dry.
You should paint both sides of the ear slits, but you do not need to paint the horn slits at this time.
6. Add black spots. Use black paint to add spots to the head and body of the cow. Let the paint dry when finished.
To create realistic spots, paint spots with uneven sides. Avoid sharp points, opting for rounded corners instead.
Note that you should also space the spots apart in uneven intervals instead of creating patterns or symmetry.
7. Define the ears and horns. Paint a small pink oval in the front side of each ear. Paint both sides of each horn gray. Let the paint dry.
The pink inner ear should follow the outline of the ear slit, but you should leave some blank white space around the edge of each center.
8. Attach the eyes. Using craft glue, adhere two googly craft eyes onto the face. Allow the glue to dry completely.
Both eyes should lie just in front of the ears along the length of the head. Place each eye in between one horn and one ear along the width (perimeter) of the head.
9. Glue the pieces together. Glue both egg carton pieces onto the same side of the body roll. Glue the head onto the opposite side of the body roll.
Turn both carton sections upside-down so that the flat bottoms become the tops. Place one section near the front of the body and the other section near the back.
With the cow standing on its egg carton feet, glue the back half of the head onto the top of the body.
10. Stuff the rolls with cotton. Once everything dries, stuff cotton balls into both open cardboard rolls.
Use enough cotton to tightly back both rolls. If you pack it tightly enough, you should not need to use glue to hold the cotton in place.
11. Attach the mouth. Cut a small piece of pink pipe cleaner out and glue it to the cotton at the front of the face.
The pink pipe cleaner should roughly match the diameter of the cardboard tube.
Bend the pipe cleaner into a slight curve to give the cow a smile.
Use glue to attach the pipe cleaner to the bottom half of the cotton at the front of the face.
12. Add a tail. Cut a small length of white yarn. Use glue to attach one end to the top of the cardboard body at the back of the cow.
The tail should be at least as long as the diameter of the tube, if not a little longer.
13. Observe your work. The cardboard cow is finished and ready to admire.
Things You'll Need.
2 empty toilet paper rolls OR 1 empty paper towel roll,Empty egg carton,Pencil,Scissors,White paint,Black paint,Pink paint,Paintbrush,Cotton balls,Glue,2 googly craft eyes,Pink pipe cleaner,White yarn,
Making your own knight's helmet is simple and only requires a few materials. The base of your helmet will be made of poster board, but you can add any type of material onto the poster board that you'd like, such as foam or metallic paper. By cutting out a rectangle and teardrop shape before attaching the two together, you'll have created your basic helmet. After that, you can add details like plumes or visors to make your knight's helmet exactly how you'd like it.
Part 1 Creating the Basic Helmet.
1. Cut out a section of poster board that’s 10 by 28 in (25 by 71 cm) long. This will be the section of your helmet that wraps around your face and head. Lay the poster board flat on the table and use a ruler to mark a rectangle that’s 10 in (25 cm) wide and 28 in (71 cm) long. Use scissors to cut out this section of poster board.
Don't worry if the rectangle section is too long, you can trim it later on.
Purchase poster board from your local craft or big box store.
2. Apply paint to the poster board if you’re not adding additional layers. If your helmet is just going to be made of poster board, feel free to paint it a solid color like silver or gold. Use spray paint for a quick application, or use a paint brush and acrylic paints to paint the helmet section using even strokes.
Use two coats to ensure the poster board is fully covered.
Let the paint dry completely before continuing to work with the poster board. This should take 1-2 hours.
3. Fold the poster board in half crosswise. Fold the poster board horizontally instead of vertically so that it opens like a book. With the poster board folded in half, its new dimensions should be 10 in (25 cm) by 14 in (36 cm). Once the poster board has an even crease, unfold it and lay it flat again.
4. Attach additional material to the helmet if desired. If you’re putting foam or colored paper on your helmet to make it textured or colorful, use an adhesive like glue or tape to attach the material to the poster board. Make sure you don’t cover up the fold you just created, lining up the paper or foam with the fold before attaching it.
Flip the poster board over so that any excess foam or paper is visible, cutting it off using scissors so the poster board and additional materials are in line with each other.
5. Form the top of the helmet in the shape of a teardrop. The top of the helmet is made by drawing a circle slightly larger than your head onto a piece of poster board (and any other materials you’re using with the poster board). Once the circle is drawn, make a dot a few inches away from the circle, connecting it to the circle using a ruler so that the shape now resembles a teardrop.
You can find templates online for the top of the helmet to make creating it easier.
Consider creating a double layer of poster board to make the top sturdier.
Use a plate to help you draw a perfect circle, if desired.
6. Create a slit in the helmet for the eyes. Hold the rectangle section of the helmet up to your face with the fold at your nose, figuring out where the eyes would go. Measure a rectangle that’s roughly 5 in (13 cm) wide and 4 in (10 cm) high—this will be your eye slit. Use scissors or a precision blade to remove the eye portion from the large rectangle.
Make sure the center of your eye slit is lined up with the fold in the helmet.
7. Tape the sides of the helmet together so it’s whole. Join the two ends of the rectangle together, putting it on your head or the other person’s head to see where you’ll need to attach it. Use tape or a stapler to hold the two ends together.
To hide the tape, put it on the inside of the helmet.
Masking tape or duct tape works best.
8. Slide the top section into the helmet to attach it. Rest the sides of the helmet on the table so it’s sitting up straight. Slide the top section of the helmet into the sides, lining the tip of the teardrop shape with the fold in the rectangle. Push it down until the top of the helmet is touching the table. This will make it easy to hot glue or tape the two pieces together from the inside.
If the top section is too big to fit into the helmet’s sides, trim it using scissors.
If the top section is too small for the helmet's sides, you can either redo it and make it larger, or use a thick tape to attach it to the helmet's sides anyway.
Be careful if you’re using hot glue, making sure not to touch the metal tip of the glue gun.
Part 2 Adding Embellishments.
1. Create a visor for your helmet for a movable portion. Draw your visor in any shape you’d like, making sure it has slits wide enough for you to see out of. Make your visor at least 5 in (13 cm) long so it covers the entire eye slit already cut out in your helmet, and fasten it to your helmet using paper fasteners.
Look online for visor templates that you just print and cut out, if desired.
2. Add a feather to your helmet to create a plume. Choose a feather that’s long and large in any color you’d like. Create a hole in the top of your helmet, picking a spot near the edge of the helmet so that it doesn’t poke the person who’s wearing it in the head. Use a knife or sharp pen to form the hole before sticking the feather inside and gluing it in place.
Feel free to add more than one feather to the helmet, or glue or tape several feathers together to create a larger plume.
You can find feathers at your local craft or big box store.
3. Cut strips of craft foam to add detail along the edges of your helmet. Measure strips of craft foam to be roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) thick. Cut each strip out and use glue to attach the strips around the edges of the helmet. This makes the helmet look more official and detailed.
Use colored craft foam to give your helmet more personality, or paint your foam gold or silver to match your helmet.
4. Draw a coat of arms or another object on your helmet to personalize it. Use a marker to draw designs on your helmet or a symbol such as a coat of arms. Look online for inspiration for different coats of arms to draw and draw them in pencil first, if possible, in case you mess up and need to erase.
Use a black marker to add details to your helmet, or use lots of different colors to make your helmet stand out.
Pencil may not show up on foam, but you can always print out a template of something you'd like to draw and trace it using pen.
With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.
Steps.
1. Blow up a balloon, tear newspaper into strips, and make a papier-mâché paste. Blow up a balloon to your desired size. Next, tear some newspaper into narrow strips, about 1 by 3 in (2.5 by 7.6 cm). Lastly, prepare your preferred papier-mâché glue or paste.
The most popular papier-mâché paste is just 1 part water and 1 part PVA glue (white school glue).
Start with just 1 or 2 sheets of newspaper; you can always make more strips.
Don't cut the strips, or the edges will be too sharp and create creases. Tearing them will give you a smoother finish.
2. Dip the strips into the paste, then apply them to the balloon. Run each strip of newspaper between your fingers after dipping it in the paste; this will remove any excess glue. Make sure that the strips are all going in the same direction as you apply them.
Overlap the strips a little, such as by 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm).
Keep the balloon in a cup or bowl so that it doesn't roll around. You may have to let 1 side of the balloon dry first before doing the other.
Leave a coin-sized space at one end of the balloon exposed so that you can pop the balloon later.
3. Apply 2 more layers of papier-mâché. You probably don't need to use the glue for the second layer; the wet strips already adhered to the balloon should be enough for the new ones to stick to. If the balloon starts to get too soggy, however, let it dry a bit, then continue working.
Consider using white tissue paper for as a fourth and final layer. This will give you a smoother base and help the paint show up better.
If you choose to use tissue paper, then make sure that you tear it into 3 by 1 in (7.6 by 2.5 cm) strips as well.
4. Let the strips dry overnight, then pop and remove the balloon. You may have to wait even longer than that, depending on how dry or humid it is in your home. In fact, it would be a good idea to poke your finger under the papier-mâché; if it feels wet, give it a little more time.
This completes your dinosaur's body.
Don't worry about the hole left by the balloon. You'll end up covering it with the dinosaur's head or tail.
5. Tape paper towel roll segments to the balloon for legs. Turn the papier-mâché balloon on its side, then use masking tape to secure the legs to the bottom.
Don't use clear tape; it won't stick to the papier-mâché.
You can also just cut 2 empty toilet paper rolls in half and use those instead.
6. Use cardboard, paper towel tubes, and foil to make the other limbs. Scrunch up aluminum foil into a ball to make a head, and then use aluminum foil shaped into a cone for the tail. The size and shape for each depends on what type of dinosaur that you're making, so look at some reference pictures. Here are some more ideas to get you started.
Triceratops: cut a round, scalloped shape out of cardboard for the fan. Use foil to make the horns.
Stegosaurus: cut triangles out of cardboard for the fins.
Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: use a paper towel tube to make the neck.
7. Tape the pieces to the body with masking tape. Take 1 of your pieces, and hold it against the balloon where you want it to go. Secure it with strips of masking tape until the seam is completely hidden. Again, don't use clear tape, because it won't hold.
Triceratops: tape the fan to the balloon first, then add the head (you may have to use hot glue to secure it). Finish by sticking the horns to the head.
Stegosaurus: tape or hot glue the head to 1 side of the body and the tail to the other. Use strips of tape to add the fins down the back and tail.
Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: tape the head to the long neck first, then tape the head to the body. Add the tail to the other side of the body.
8. Cover the pieces and the seams with more papier-mâché. Start by applying strips of papier-mâché to the seams. After that, cover the shapes themselves. If the pieces feel unstable, add more papier-mâché to the seams.
You may have to tear more strips of newspaper and prepare more papier-mâché paste for this.
Consider making some smaller strips for sharp curves and tight corners.
If the hole from when you removed the balloon is still visible, cover it up with more papier-mâché.
9. Wait for everything to dry. How long it will take for your project to dry really depends on what the weather is like. Papier-mâché will dry a lot faster on a hot, dry, sunny day than on a cold, wet, day. Be patient!
10. Paint the dinosaur as desired, then let the paint dry. Acrylic craft paint will work just fine for this, but you can use poster paint too. You can use realistic colors for your dinosaur, like gray, brown, and green, or you can use fantasy colors, like pink, purple, and blue.
For a nicer finish, paint the dinosaur white first, then let the paint dry. This will give you a clean "canvas" to work on.
Don't forget to add eyes and a mouth. You can paint the eyes, or glue googly eyes on instead.
How long it will take for the paint to dry will depend on what type of paint you're using. Plan to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.
Tips.
Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
Things You'll Need.
White school glue, Newspaper, Balloon, Cardboard, Aluminum foil, Empty toilet paper rolls, Masking tape, Acrylic paint or poster paint, Scissors.
Crafters, makers and builders create beautiful items out of raw materials. If you are a crafter that is unable to think of your next project, there are many ways that you can get new ideas. Crafting is one of the most popular subjects of blogs, magazines, classes and more, and its popularity has only risen as the Internet has become an easy way to share methods, techniques and projects. Depending upon how you like to learn, you can choose the most comfortable option. Select your specific area of crafting and search for the newest crafting projects using these avenues. Read more to find out how to get ideas for crafts and projects.
Steps.
1. Join a quilting bee, knitting circle or scrap booking club. Monthly meetings give the opportunities for exchanging ideas, showing off projects and doing group projects.
This is also a great way to meet people with similar interests and form lasting friendships. Crafting often allows you to talk to other people and learn their stories. Many rural communities have quilt guilds, knitting bees and craft circles that stay intact for decades.
2. Take night classes. Most cities have a group that is devoted to community education and gives a catalog of classes at a small fee. These can include anything from jewelry making to scrap booking to wood working.
Search online for "Lifelong learning classes" in your town or "Community education." Most classes happen once or twice a week over a period of months and they teach you new skills and give you many ideas for projects.
3. Get a subscription to a do-it-yourself magazine. Depending upon your preferences, there are many options. Magazine subscriptions can be bought from a website, Amazon, or a magazine prescription service, and it is a good idea to look for the best offer.
Good options for crafters include Martha Stewart Living, Card Maker, This Old House, American Style, Creative Knitting, Do-It-Yourself, Ready Made, American Craft, Crafts and Hobbies, Quilter, Paper Crafts, Creative Woodwork and Crafts, Car Craft. Knit'N Style, Sew News and Creating Keepsakes.
You may want to go to a supermarket and buy a few issues of each of these magazines to decide which one would be the best monthly subscription.
4. Get involved with Blogger, WordPress and other blogging platforms. Once you have a profile you can subscribe to craft blogs and check back whenever you need a fresh idea.
You may hear of craft bloggers referred to as "choggers." Start by checking out popular blogs, such as Bakerella, Cuteable, Dollar Store Crafts, Not Martha and the Pearl Bee. There are thousands of blogs to choose from, and they may also provide an email newsletter.
5. Sign up for email newsletters from magazines like Real Simple, Better Homes and Gardens and Ready Made. They will send you weekly or monthly issues depending upon your preferences, filled with new ideas from their crafters-in-residence.
6. Inquire at local stores if they do classes. In order to drum up business, stores often provide classes for a small fee as long as you buy the materials. For instance, a knitting business may teach their patrons how to use a new set of knitting needles in order to sell more sets.
7. Go online and simply search for patterns or templates. If you are looking for children's crafts, this is the fastest and least expensive option. If you cannot afford patterns for quilting and knitting, there are a number of free online templates that you can find using an Internet search and a printer.
Balls provide endless entertainment for kids and adults alike, so make your own if you want a fun toy to play with this weekend. But there are balls for other occasions, too. If you’re having a rough week, for instance, create a stress ball to squeeze when you just want to scream. Or get creative and make balls out of things like rubber bands, fabric, and even cheese!
Method 1 Making a Bouncy Ball.
1. Combine school glue, cornstarch, and any add-ins in a bowl. Stir together the 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch until they’re thoroughly combined, using a spoon or wooden stick. If you want to add any extras, like food coloring or glitter, do so now.
You can use either white or clear school glue. If you use white glue and don’t add any coloring, your ball will be white.
Fun Add-Ins for Your Bouncy Ball
Sprinkle in glitter for a little extra sparkle.
Squeeze in a few drops of food coloring to make a ball in your favorite hue.
Stir glow in the dark paint into the glue for a ball that can be used at night.
Swirl 2 colors of food coloring together if you want a multi-colored masterpiece.
2. Stir warm water and Borax together in a separate bowl. Mix 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water and 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax until the Borax is completely dissolved. Stir vigorously to ensure there are no clumps of powder left in the bowl.
Heat the water in the microwave or on the stove until it’s warm to the touch. It shouldn’t be boiling.
You can find Borax in the laundry aisle of a store.
Borax is safe to use, but it's poisonous if ingested in large quantities. If you or your child get it in your eyes or mouth, contact poison control immediately.
3. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of the Borax mixture in the bowl with the glue. Do not stir the ingredients together when you add them. Simply pour the Borax and water into the other bowl containing the glue and cornstarch.
Set aside the remaining Borax mixture if you plan on making more balls.
4. Let the mixture sit for 15 seconds. This allows time for the Borax to react with the glue, making the polymers of the glue link together which will create the ball shape. If you start stirring right away, the bouncy ball may not form or harden properly.
Set a kitchen timer or use the clock app on your phone to keep track of the time.
5. Use a spoon to combine the ingredients until they’re too thick to stir. Within 1 to 2 minutes, the mixture will thicken. Stir vigorously while the mixture is still liquid to make sure the ingredients are blended well.
Choose a sturdy spoon, like a metal or thick plastic one. Something flimsy, like a plastic spoon, will likely break off in the goo.
If you’ve made homemade slime with Borax, this process is very similar.
6. Remove the mixture and roll it between your hands to form a ball. Once the mixture is too thick for your spoon or stick, pull it out of the bowl and place it between your palms. Roll it around by moving your hands in circular motions until the ball is no longer sticky.
The more you handle the ball, the more firm it will become.
If you’re having trouble getting rid of the stickiness, dip the ball in the Borax water, then roll it a little more. This should remove any tacky texture.
7. Let the ball harden for about 10 to 20 minutes before you use it. This dries the ball a little more, so that it’s extra bouncy. If the ball starts to flatten while it sits, simply roll it back into shape when you’re ready to play with it.
Once you’re done playing, store the ball in an airtight container to prevent it from drying out. Keep it in a cool, dark place, like the pantry.
If stored properly, your ball could last for up to 6 months. It won’t go bad, but it will dry out eventually.
To make more bouncy balls, mix up another batch of glue and cornstarch and use some of the leftover Borax and water mixture.
Things You'll Need.
2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water, 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch.
Spoon or wooden stick, 2 cups or small bowls, Food coloring or other add-ins (optional), Airtight container (optional).
Method 2 Creating a Paper Soccer Ball.
1. Trace 20 hexagons on white paper, then cut them out. Draw your hexagons on the paper with a template, making each side the exact same length. Use scissors to carefully cut along the traced shapes, then set them aside.
If you want a life-sized soccer ball, make the edges 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.
To make a template, use a ruler to draw the hexagon shape on a piece of cardboard. Cut it out and trace around it with a pencil to make each paper hexagon.
Cardstock is the best type of paper to use for this craft. It’s sturdy enough to hold the shape of the ball yet still easy to fold.
2. Trace and cut out 12 black pentagons with sides the same length. The edges of the black and white pieces need to be equal so that they fit together properly. Use a template to draw your pentagon shapes, then cut them out with scissors.
For example, if you’re creating a life-sized ball, make your pentagon sides 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.
You can use a different color paper instead of black, or get creative and make a multi-colored ball with a variety of shades.
Cut a pentagon template out of cardboard to trace on the black paper so that the pieces are all equal size.
3. Fold up a thin border around each hexagon and pentagon. This edge will allow you to build your ball seamlessly, so there are no gaps between pieces. You only want to fold enough of each edge to have a place to apply glue or tape. Keep the border size equal on each piece so they all remain the same size after folding.
To fold the same border on each piece, trace the border before you fold, using a ruler to ensure each edge is an equal width.
Use a straight edge, like a ruler, to help you fold the edges in a perfect line.
If the edges are crooked, re-fold them. They have to be straight for your ball to be the right shape.
To make folding easier, snip off the corners of your border before you fold. This allows you to fold the edges up without dealing with corners that crumple up or stick out.
4. Apply glue or tape to the folded edges of each piece. This is how you’ll stick the the pieces together to form the ball. Swipe glue on each of the edges of all the hexagons and pentagons. You can also use a strip of tape on the edges instead.
A glue stick will work better than liquid glue to prevent the paper edges from getting soggy.
If you are slow at putting the ball together, you may want to apply the glue as you go, rather than all at once. Otherwise, it will dry out on the final pieces by the time you get to them.
5. Attach 5 white hexagons to 1 black pentagon. On a standard soccer ball, each black piece is completely surrounded by white pieces. Press 1 white hexagon onto each edge of a black pentagon. Hold the edges together until the glue dries.
If you’re using a glue stick, the glue will dry almost instantly. Wait about 5 to 10 seconds while pressing the edges against one another.
6. Continue gluing the pieces together in this pattern, forming the soccer ball. On the other edges of the white hexagons that you attached to the original pentagon, glue more black pentagons. Don’t forget to glue the white edges that touch each other, too. Once you connect all of the pieces, you’ll have a ball shape.
A black piece should never touch another black piece. However, white edges will touch other white edges.
If you’re having trouble visualizing the pattern, look up an image of a soccer ball online as a guide.
You can stuff the ball with shreds of paper if you want to create a fuller shape.
Things You'll Need.
Black and white sheets of paper, Scissors, Cardboard.
Pencil or pen, Glue stick or tape, Homemade Stress Ball, 12 in (30 cm) latex balloon.
Method 3 Using Play Dough for a Homemade Stress Ball.
1. Use your hands to roll play dough into a long shape. Place a pile of play dough on a flat surface, then gently roll it out with the palms of your hands. This should form what looks like a snake.
It doesn’t matter what color play dough you use, since it will just be going inside the balloon.
Buy pre-made play dough or make your own at home.
If you buy play dough, use one 5 oz (140 g) container per balloon.
2. Insert the play dough into the balloon. Stretch the neck of the balloon open as wide as you can, then stuff the play dough snake into the balloon. The play dough should fill the balloon just to the base of the neck.
If there is a lot of empty space in the balloon, add more play dough.
Stretch out the neck of the balloon before you insert the play dough to loosen it up.
This step is easier if you have someone else hold the balloon open while you put the play dough inside.
3. Tie a knot in the neck at the top of the balloon to secure it. This will keep all of the play dough inside the balloon. Wrap the neck around your finger to make your knot, tying it as tightly as possible.
If you want extra protection, you can place your original balloon inside another empty balloon before tying it shut. This adds a double layer in case you poke a hole.
You can decorate your stress balls with permanent markers if you’d like. For example, you could draw a funny face or write a calming phrase, like “just breathe.”
Things You'll Need.
Permanent marker (optional).
Method 4 Forming Other Types of Balls.
1. Build a rubber band ball for a creative way to store supplies. Instead of tossing your rubber bands in a drawer, keep them together in 1 big ball. Fold up a thick rubber band to form the center, then begin wrapping all of other bands around it. Criss-cross directions often to round out the ball.
You can also wrap your bands around a bouncy ball or crumpled-up piece of paper for a larger ball.
Start with smaller rubber bands, then add the larger ones as the ball gets bigger.
2. Sew a fabric ball if you want a soft toy for kids or pets. Young children, particularly babies, could get injured by hard rubber balls. Instead, stitch together a ball out of strips of fabric, then stuff it with polyfill for a plush feel or use dried beans for a bean bag texture.
This also makes a great pet toy for dogs to chew on or for cats to bat around. If the ball is for a pet, pick a durable fabric like vinyl or nylon and keep your pet in sight as it plays with the ball.
You can use a sewing machine to make your ball or sew it by hand.
Cotton is ideal for kids’ toys since it’s a long-lasting and soft fabric that’s easy to wash.
3. Use ice to make a ball for a unique cocktail add-in. Not only do ice spheres look much cooler than regular cubes floating in your drink, they also melt slower, so your beverage doesn't get watered-down as quickly. Fill a silicone ice ball mold with water, then place it in the freezer for at least 6 hours, or until the balls have set and hardened.
For extra flair and flavor, add things like fresh herbs or edible flowers into the water in the mold before it freezes.
You can buy ice ball molds from a kitchen store or online retailer.
4. Make a cheese ball if you’re having people over for dinner or a party. When it’s your turn to play host or hostess, whip up a cheese ball as an impressive appetizer. Mix together cream cheese and other soft cheeses, shape it into a ball, then chill it in the refrigerator. Roll it in chopped nuts and other garnishes before serving.
You can substitute mascarpone, neufchatel, or goat cheese for the cream cheese if you’d like.
Pair any type of softer cheese with the creamy base, depending on your taste preferences. As long as it’s not a dry, crumbly cheese like parmesan, it will work.
Serve a cheese ball with finger foods for dipping, like crackers, pretzels, or raw veggies.
Warnings.
Borax is poisonous. Get help immediately if you accidentally ingest it or get it in your eyes.
Never let young children handle Borax without close supervision.
