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How to Organize a Craft Room.

A craft room is a place where you want to let your creative energies take over. Organizing your craft room will take some work but the end result is worth the effort. You will want to start by gathering and sorting all of your available craft supplies. Then, find places to store these items where they will be easy to grab and use in the midst of a project. Use organizing as an opportunity to display those items that inspire you as well.

Method 1 Sorting Your Craft Supplies.

1. Gather all of your craft items. Grab a basket and walk throughout your living space grabbing any and all craft supplies and tools. Carry them into your designated craft room and place everything in the middle of the floor. Once you think that you’ve gotten it all, go back through one more time just to be certain. Make sure to open all of your drawers and cabinets, as craft supplies can often ‘hide.’

Likewise, go through your craft room and identify any objects or items that do not belong there and move them out. They may need to go in a ‘staging area’ in another room, so that you can concentrate your energy on your craft area.

2. Sort your supplies out according to item type. Look over your supply pile and begin to build smaller piles based upon different categories of supplies. For example, put all of your wrapping paper together. All fabrics should go together initially. After these first piles are finished, you can go back through them and narrow them even further according to size and color. For example, put all of the red wrapping paper together.

At this point your room may be in controlled chaos, so be careful walking around or you may slip on one of your piles. For that reason, try to keep other people out of the room as well, at least during this stage.

To keep you from feeling overwhelmed, bring an egg timer into the room and set it for 15-minutes. When the timer goes off, take a 5-minute break. Then, re-set the timer and start again. This will keep you motivated to work at a steady pace without burning out.

3. Decide what to donate. As you sort, identify items that are worth donating. Perhaps you have multiples of some items or maybe leftover supplies from projects that you’ve completed and moved on from. Make sure that whatever you donate is safe for another user. For example, don’t donate rusty scissors or any cracked glass items.

Various charity organizations, schools, and libraries will gladly accept donations of craft supplies as long as they are in good condition. This is a great opportunity to share your interest in crafting with other people.

Depending on the amount of items that you have, some charities will actually come to your house and pick them up for you. This may be a good opportunity to do organize other areas of your home as well.

4. Create a trash pile and dispose of it. As you sort, identify items that need to be thrown away. This could be items that you no longer find useful, but that aren’t suitable for donation due to condition or quantity. You should also trash any supplies that are no good anymore, such as dried out glue or frayed ribbons. Ask yourself if you’ve used the item in the past year and if you haven’t odds are it needs to be thrown away or donated.

Take the trash out after you’ve finished sorting the main pile. If you wait you are likely to leave it there and it will become an eyesore and will slow your organizing progress.

5. Repeat this process every few weeks. As life goes on, many of your supplies will likely wander out of your craft space once more. To keep your area tidy and useful for you, go through a sorting and cleaning process fairly often, especially after completing a major project.

Also, devote at least ten minutes after you finish working in your craft room for picking up and storing items in their new proper places. Devoting even this small amount of time can make a major difference in the long-term appearance of your craft room.

Method 2 Implementing a Storage System.

1. Store similar items together. You’ll want to keep your supplies together in their sorted piles as you place them in their designated storage spots and containers. Extra-small items will need to be placed in extra-small containers and will probably be grouped together for storage and then usage.

Keep an eye out for items that may appear similar but that have slightly different functions. These situations may require that you divide up your storage system even further. For example, you’ll want to divide your fabric scissors from your paper scissors.

2. Use plastic bins. These are the number one storage option when organizing a craft room. They come in a wide variety of sizes and are easy to stack. They also fit well within a cube shelf. You can see inside the clear bins, making it easy to find an item that you are looking for.

Depending on how you arrange your bins, you will want to purchase ones that open on the top or via a front panel. Look for lids that snap on tightly to avoid spilling your supplies.

Bins are also especially useful when working with messy items such as paints. In addition, they contain fumes from paints as well.

Make sure to purchase extra bins, and to leave space in the ones that you currently use, for new supplies that you may purchase.

3. Arrange items by color. Store and display your craft supplies according to the color wheel. This will create a quick way for you to find an item that you need for a particular project. It will also lead to beautiful displays of items within the room itself. For example, if you have a bunch of balls of yarn, sort them according to color (reds next to orange tints, etc.) and place them in a wooden cube bookcase for quick access and visual appeal.

4. Repurpose materials as storage containers. Almost any container that is sturdy with a lid can be reused as storage in your craft room. Try to think creatively and find jars, buckets, etc. that you find visually appealing already. They will be even more attractive when holding your supplies.

Here are a few unique ideas. To house smaller items such as sequins, use little plastic pill storage boxes that you can get at a pharmacy or grocery store. For colored beads, place them in a spice rack by color for ease of access and beauty. Small tins or colored buckets make a great storage option for pens, pencils, and paintbrushes.

For a more industrial look, grab a magnetic knife holder from your kitchen, attach it to the wall of your craft room, and use it to display your sharp cutting devices and scissors. This works best when positioned close to your standing work area.

Look at crafting sites and blogs online or buy inspirational craft books/magazines in order to find additional design ideas that may suit your particular space and taste.

5. Label everything. This is especially important when storing items in plastic bins or opaque containers. As you put away every storage container, make sure that it has a clear and visible label that you can see from the center of your craft room. For example, the bin with tape should say, “Tape-clear.”

You can get as fancy as you’d like with the labels. Some people prefer to use a standard label maker while others print directly from online templates. You can even make your own labels by hand.

6. Install shelving. You want to get the most use out of all surfaces within your room, so don’t ignore the walls. Look around your craft room and consider adding shelves to many of the open spaces on the walls. Think creatively about shelving and use materials such as recycled bookcase shelves or even old metal signs repurposed as shelves.

Method 3 Organizing Your Space for Creative Inspiration.

1. Locate your work table for ease of access. Get a sturdy table that you’d feel comfortable working on and place it in the most convenient space in the room, usually right in the middle. You want to be able to access it from all sides. Consider adding a chair or stool, unless you plan to stand all of the time when crafting.

In addition to your main table, you may want another one placed against the wall that will almost act like a workbench. You can hang items on the wall next to it for quick grabbing access.

2. Keep your favorite supplies close by. The materials that you are using for a current project, or those that you consistently rely upon, should be placed close to your table workspace. For example, if you are a seamstress, do not hide your best pair of cutting shears in a labeled storage bin in the closet.

3. Emphasize the natural light when possible. If you have a choice of room, pick a room with ample light sources. This will help to save you from eye strain as you work on your projects. You can also supplement the light by adding interesting (and bright) lamps. Hanging lamps often work the quite well as they are out of the way.

4. Create an inspiration board. Pin up photos or drawings to a fabric-covered poster board. Or, hang a magnetic board on your wall and attach items to it. Clip or write down quotes that you like and attach them to the board. Let it keep growing until you feel the need to remove some items into storage. This can be a fairly chaotic, but inspirational space, in an another organized room.

To add even more visual appeal, use colorful and creative stick-pins to attach items to the board. You can even go with pieces of patterned tape too.

5. Decorate with beautiful craft items. If you love your yarn, don’t hide it, display it. As you sort out items at the start of this process, look for those supplies that you find particularly visually stunning or exciting. Try to create spaces out in the open to store these items. For example, lengths of ribbon can be stored and displayed by hanging a peg board on the wall.

6. Create more access by manipulating your space. Don’t be afraid to use every inch of your craft room for some storage, display, or work purpose. You can paint inspirational quotes on the ceiling and hang items from it too. You can go vertical up the walls and increase your reach by employing footstools. Typically neglected areas, such as the backs of doors, can be put to good use with hanging storage pouches.

Increase your visibility in closet spaces by removing the doors and replacing them with a rod and curtain. When you first enter your room, sweep aside the curtain and you’ve got instant access and visibility into this space.

Tips.

You might want to do an inventory as you sort and organize, in order to determine what supplies you need to reorder.

Warnings.

Think about design and utility, but also safety. If you will have kids in your craft room, watch how you display sharp tools, etc.
November 25, 2019


How to Get Ideas for Crafts and Projects.

Crafters, makers and builders create beautiful items out of raw materials. If you are a crafter that is unable to think of your next project, there are many ways that you can get new ideas. Crafting is one of the most popular subjects of blogs, magazines, classes and more, and its popularity has only risen as the Internet has become an easy way to share methods, techniques and projects. Depending upon how you like to learn, you can choose the most comfortable option. Select your specific area of crafting and search for the newest crafting projects using these avenues. Read more to find out how to get ideas for crafts and projects.

Steps.

1. Join a quilting bee, knitting circle or scrap booking club. Monthly meetings give the opportunities for exchanging ideas, showing off projects and doing group projects.

This is also a great way to meet people with similar interests and form lasting friendships. Crafting often allows you to talk to other people and learn their stories. Many rural communities have quilt guilds, knitting bees and craft circles that stay intact for decades.

2. Take night classes. Most cities have a group that is devoted to community education and gives a catalog of classes at a small fee. These can include anything from jewelry making to scrap booking to wood working.

Search online for "Lifelong learning classes" in your town or "Community education." Most classes happen once or twice a week over a period of months and they teach you new skills and give you many ideas for projects.

3. Get a subscription to a do-it-yourself magazine. Depending upon your preferences, there are many options. Magazine subscriptions can be bought from a website, Amazon, or a magazine prescription service, and it is a good idea to look for the best offer.

Good options for crafters include Martha Stewart Living, Card Maker, This Old House, American Style, Creative Knitting, Do-It-Yourself, Ready Made, American Craft, Crafts and Hobbies, Quilter, Paper Crafts, Creative Woodwork and Crafts, Car Craft. Knit'N Style, Sew News and Creating Keepsakes.

You may want to go to a supermarket and buy a few issues of each of these magazines to decide which one would be the best monthly subscription.

4. Get involved with Blogger, WordPress and other blogging platforms. Once you have a profile you can subscribe to craft blogs and check back whenever you need a fresh idea.

You may hear of craft bloggers referred to as "choggers." Start by checking out popular blogs, such as Bakerella, Cuteable, Dollar Store Crafts, Not Martha and the Pearl Bee. There are thousands of blogs to choose from, and they may also provide an email newsletter.

5. Sign up for email newsletters from magazines like Real Simple, Better Homes and Gardens and Ready Made. They will send you weekly or monthly issues depending upon your preferences, filled with new ideas from their crafters-in-residence.

6. Inquire at local stores if they do classes. In order to drum up business, stores often provide classes for a small fee as long as you buy the materials. For instance, a knitting business may teach their patrons how to use a new set of knitting needles in order to sell more sets.

7. Go online and simply search for patterns or templates. If you are looking for children's crafts, this is the fastest and least expensive option. If you cannot afford patterns for quilting and knitting, there are a number of free online templates that you can find using an Internet search and a printer.


Things You'll Need.

Community craft circles.

Craft magazines.

Craft blogs.

Email newsletters.

Printer.
November 25, 2019


20 common embroidery mistakes


Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.



Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.



Not Reading the Instructions

Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.



Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric

Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.



Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle

Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.



Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle

Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.



Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots

Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with ​a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.



Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness

Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.



Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread

Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.



Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen

It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.



Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils

Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.



Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted

When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.



Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame

Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.



Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction

Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).



Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing

Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.



Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting

Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.



Getting Your Project Dirty

Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.



Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type​​

If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.



Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching

You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.



Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly

Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.



Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight​​

Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.



Rushing to Fix a Mistake

If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.



Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/



Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





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November 01, 2019


diy cat scratching post for your feline friends


DIY Cat Scratching Post

More often than not, cats can be found lounging in the sun or snoozing the day away. But don’t let them fool you—they love to play. Cats love climbing, chasing, and jumping just as much as any other pet.



But all the climbing and scratching can lead to wear and tear. Instead of sacrificing your beloved couch or armchair, find some enriching toys to give your feline to keep them happy and healthy. That way, everyone can live in peace.



While perusing the pet store shelves, you may notice that most toys, treats, and beds are lacking in style. For some reason, a lot of pet products are behind the curve when it comes to aesthetically pleasing design. With DIY, you can maintain your dream home’s modern decor while giving your pet everything you need.



This DIY scratching post is sure to please your furry friend. Plus, it will look great hanging on your wall! Say goodbye to boring beige cat furniture.



Gather Your Supplies

This DIY requires a few easy-to-find supplies. To make it even more budget-friendly, head to a second-hand store to find a frame. You can easily upcycle it at a low cost.



Here’s what you’ll need:



Small rug



Scissors



Measuring tape



11" x 14" picture frame





Measure and Cut Your Rug

You may not even have to head to the store to find the carpet material for this project. If you remodeled your home, you likely already have some leftover carpet in the garage.



But if not, you can find carpet samples at local carpet retailers. Or you can use an indoor/outdoor decorative rug (like the one we used), a door mat, or even a bath rug. Just be sure your material isn’t unraveled or damaged—that’s the cat’s job.



Before using your scissors to cut your carpet, use a measuring tape to measure the size of the picture frame. Then, use those measurements to cut a rectangular section of your carpet that will fit perfectly inside the picture frame. If the first try isn’t perfect, just keep trimming away.



Your regular pair of scissors will sometimes work for this, but it depends on the material you use. If it’s difficult to cut with scissors, try using sharp shears.



Secure in Frame

Once you have cut your material to match the size of your frame, it’s time to secure them together.



First, remove the sample photo and glass cover from your picture frame. These parts aren’t necessary and you can keep them for future crafts or recycle them if you have no use for them.



If your picture frame has a kickstand on the back, it may be necessary to remove it. This frame will be hung on the wall and a kickstand on the back may make it too bulky, causing it to stick out when it’s hung up.



Secure your piece of rug or carpet inside your picture frame. Be sure to apply the cardboard backing piece that came with the frame onto the back to make sure things stay in place.



Display

The moment we’ve all been waiting for is here! Now that your DIY is finished, you’ve got an adorable piece of wall decor that looks great and satisfies your kitty to no end. Every cat will appreciate this fun toy. And when it wears out, just replace the material inside to keeping things looking new.



Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/



Note :

Acknowledgements

This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.





craft handmade, 5 minute craft, craft game, craft paper, craft meaning, craft apk, craft ideas, craft indonesia, diy craft paper, diy craft tutorial, diy craft youtube, diy craft indonesia, diy craft wood, diy craft room, diy crafts to sell, diy creative
November 01, 2019




How to Organize Craft Supplies.



If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.







Steps.



1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.

If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.

Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.



2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.

Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.

Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.

Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.



3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.

Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.

Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,



4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.

Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.

If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.

Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.



5. Keep on sorting.

Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.

Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.



6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.

Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.

For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.



7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.



8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.



9. Finished.





Tips.

Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.

Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.

Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.

Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.

Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.

Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.

Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.

Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.

Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.



Things You'll Need.

Craft supplies.

Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.

Paper to label the containers.
November 21, 2019




How to Build a Ballista.



If you like medieval weaponry capable of flinging arrows through the air, try building your own ballista. A ballista consists of a frame, a launch ramp with a slide, and a tensioned string. You can build all of these components with popsicle sticks, thread, and other basic supplies. Add a launch pin to create a small ballista that enables you fire bolts with a pull of a string.







Part 1 Assembling the Frame.



Drill holes through a pair of 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. Measure 1 in (2.5 cm) from the ends and mark the spots with a pencil. Before working on the sticks, lay down a piece of cardboard to protect your work surface from damage. Then, use a drill bit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter to create the holes.

The simplest way to create a ballista is with inexpensive popsicle sticks, available online, at craft supply store, and other areas.

If you wish to make a larger ballista, trying using larger pieces of wood or foam in place of the popsicle sticks.



Poke a second, smaller hole next to each of the bigger ones. Measure about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) along the stick’s length from one of the existing holes. Use a steel probe 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in diameter or a similar sharp tool to poke all the way through the wood. Position the hole so it’s slightly lower, closer to the edge of the stick, than the larger hole. Create a matching hole on the opposite end of the first stick and create corresponding holes on the second stick.

Each popsicle stick has 4 holes when you’re finished, a pair of holes on either end. The bigger holes are used to secure the ballista frame together, while the smaller holes are for the launcher.

To test the smaller holes, try squeezing a wood cocktail skewer through them. Get skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Widen the holes as needed to fit the skewers.



Cut a pair of wood blocks to 1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm). The easiest way to do this is to purchase wood crafting blocks. If you can’t find the exact size you need, cut the blocks to size with a crafting knife or another tool. Get blocks that are about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. Scrape away the excess wood until both blocks are the same size.

Shop online or visit a craft store to see what kind of wood blocks are available. You can use scrap wood if you wish, but crafting blocks are much smoother and easier to work with.

Be careful when using a crafting knife. The blocks are small, so it’s easy to slip while handling the blade. Work slowly to avoid potential accidents.

Image titled Build a Ballista Step 4

4

Glue the blocks to the ends of the popsicle sticks. Heat up a hot glue gun loaded with a fresh stick of white glue. Spread a layer of glue over the ends of the 1 of the sticks, then lay the blocks on top of that. Align the longer ends of each block with the edges of the popsicle stick. Spread another layer of glue on top of the wood blocks to secure the second popsicle stick.

Make sure you align the holes in the popsicle sticks before gluing them in place. The holes need to be positioned evenly over one another in order for the ballista launch its arrows later.







Part 2 Building and Attaching the Launch Ramp.



Cut about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) off the end of another popsicle stick. Trim this new stick to size by measuring and slicing it apart with your craft knife. Another safe way to do this is by snapping the end off with scissors or wire cutters. Trim any stray wood fibers off the cut end so it looks smooth and even.

Cutting popsicle sticks can be tricky since they are pretty fragile. Work slowly, gradually deepening the cut you make. Bend the popsicle stick back and forth along the groove you cut to prevent it from splintering.

If you have experience with wood cutting, try using a fine saw blade like a band saw. Always wear earmuffs, eye goggles, and a dust mask while operating a saw.



Trim a pair of cocktail skewers to 5 1⁄2 in (14 cm) in length. Get some wood skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Measure and mark the skewers as needed with a ruler and pencil. Then, cut the skewers evenly on both ends to trim off the sharp points. The skewers need to be the same length as the popsicle stick you cut, so use it for comparison.

Wood skewers are available online in addition to some craft stores, general stores, and restaurant supply stores.

Cut the skewers by using a craft knife or by snapping the ends off with wire cutters.



Glue the skewers to the top of the popsicle stick. Place the skewers on the long edges of the popsicle stick you cut. Lay down a bead of glue from a hot glue gun to secure the skewers in place. Trim the ends of the skewers as needed to smooth them out and make them even with the ends of the stick.

Now you have a basic launch ramp. The skewers form a groove for you to load the ballista’s ammunition.



Secure the ramp to the center of the frame you built. Get your popsicle stick frame with the holes drilled in it. Turn the ramp over and spread some hot glue on the end of it. Then, secure it over the bottom popsicle stick in the frame. Put it as close to the center of the frame as possible, aligning the end of the ramp with the back edge of the frame.

Hot glue dries relatively quickly, so you don’t need to worry too much about the frame and ramp components coming apart. Set the pieces aside as needed for 10 to 20 minutes to give the glue a chance to solidify. It takes about 24 hours to fully cure.







Part 3 Creating the Launcher Mechanism.



Break a 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle stick into halves. Divide the stick evenly into halves about 2 1⁄4 in (5.7 cm) long. These sticks are smaller than the frame pieces and are part of the ballista’s launching system. Use a craft knife or wire cutters to split the stick across its width and then smooth out the cut end.

Purchase a separate bag of smaller popsicle sticks online or at a craft store. Alternatively, cut smaller pieces of wood boards or foam if you’re making the ballista with those materials.



Poke a hole 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each stick. Use a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-thick steel probe or a similar tool sold at craft stores. Make a single hole near the rounded end, leaving the cut end alone. Pierce all the way through the wood.



Pull pieces of string through the larger holes in the frame. Getting the string through the holes is tricky, so have a cocktail skewer nearby to push it through. Slide both ends of a string 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter through the top hole, then through the respective hole in the bottom frame piece. Leave the string long enough to form small loops above and below the ballista frame.

Try using twine from a craft store for a strong material that isn’t likely to break when you’re having fun launching makeshift arrows.



Tie small skewers to the frame using the string loops. Cut a couple of wood skewers down to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length. Start with the top loop by placing a skewer inside of it and pulling the string tight. Then, tie the loose ends of the string into a knot with another skewer underneath it.

Lay the skewers flat against the frame pieces. Orient them so they’re perpendicular to the frame pieces. Then, tie the knots as tight as you can to hold the skewers in place.



Place the small popsicle sticks between the strings and tighten them. The popsicle sticks you cut earlier fit between the frame pieces. Slide about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of the cut ends of the sticks between the ropes. Then, twist the bottom skewers clockwise to tighten the string as much as possible.

When the small sticks are positioned correctly, you can move them back and forth without them sliding out of place. This is necessary for moving the ballista’s launcher to let arrows fly a long way.



Slide another skewer into each of the inner holes on the frame. Cut 2 more skewers to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length to fit those holes. Make them look nice and even like the other skewers before fitting them through the frame. Make sure the skewers go all the way through the respective holes on the top and bottom frame pieces.

Protect the strings by tying the ends to the bottoms of these skewers, if possible. If you do this, the skewers maintain the string’s tension, leading to much more impressive launches!



Tie a length of string between the launcher’s stick arms. Set the ballista so the back end is in front of you. Thread the 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string into the holes in the small popsicle sticks hanging from the ballista frame. Knot both ends of the string to secure it, then trim off the excess length.

The exact length of string you need to form the launcher depends on the material you used. Try threading the string through both holes before cutting it from the spool. Always cut it longer than you need so you can knot it tightly.







Part 4 Making the Slide and Supports.



Glue a block underneath the back end of the launch ramp. Get another 1.5 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood block. The block needs to be approximately the same width as the ramp in order to keep the ballista stable while you’re firing it. Set the ramp in the glue, aligning its back edge with the back end of the block.

Installing the block makes the ballista ramp slanted so it launches arrows higher into the air.



Cut grooves in a small block to create the ballista’s slider. Cut the grooves into a small piece of wood about 1.5 × 1 × 1⁄2 in (3.8 × 2.5 × 1.3 cm) in size. The launcher needs separate grooves in the front and back, both as thick as the string you used when tying the launcher arms together. Make the 2 grooves about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from either end. Use a crafting knife to scrape away the wood, making the grooves circular and about half as deep as the block.

Try making the slider out of a wood peg bought online or a craft store. If you use scrap wood, make sure it is solid and smooth so you can slide it along the ramp.



Create a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood cap to fit on top of the slider. Simply cut a smaller popsicle stick to the exact length and width as the slider. Cut the cap into a rectangle with no rounded edges. When you’re ready to install it, put the launcher string into the slider’s front groove. Spread some hot glue, then press the cap onto the top of the slider.

Test the cap out by putting it on the slider before you add the glue. Check that it’s big enough to cover the slider and pin the string in place.



Drill 45-degree angle holes in a block of wood. This block needs to be about 2 × 1 1⁄2 × 1⁄2 in (5.1 × 3.8 × 1.3 cm) longer than the one on the back end of the ballista. Position the holes about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the smaller sides of the block. Use a drill bit approximately 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide to drill diagonally towards the center of the block.

Drill all the way through the other side of the block. Keep the holes as even as possible to build a stable base for the ballista frame.



Fit wood dowels into the holes on the block. Use a pair of 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-thick dowels cut to about 4 in (10 cm) long. Slice them using a craft knife, wire cutters, or a saw if you have one. Then, put some hot glue on the ends of the dowels and push them as far into the holes as possible.

Look online or at a local craft supply store for the perfect dowels for your project.



Glue the block to the front side of the frame to stand the ballista up. Flip the block over and spread a thick bead of glue across its length. Lift up the front end of the ballista to stick the block to the bottom of the frame. After pressing the pieces firmly together, consider letting the glue dry for about 10 minutes.

If the block is wider than the frame, you could try whittling it down with a carving knife or craft knife. As long as your base is stable, doing this isn’t necessary, but it can make the ballista look a little neater.







Part 5 Completing the Firing Mechanism.



Glue long spacer pieces to the sides of the back block. Cut the spacer pieces so they are about 4 in × 1.5 in (10.2 cm × 3.8 cm) in size. Spread more hot glue, then press them against the block supporting the back end of the ramp. These parts are there to support the rest of the parts you need to add, so they don’t need to be pretty and can be longer than the block itself.

Make sure the spacer pieces stick out from underneath the ramp a little bit. The pieces that attach to them need to extend over the ramp or else you won’t be able to fire the ballista.



Cut 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) off the ends of a large popsicle stick. Measure and mark the length you need to cut on one of the 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. You need 2 of these pieces, so cut off both ends of the stick. Leave the rounded ends of the stick intact.

Cut the stick carefully with a craft knife, wire cutters, or saw. Work slowly to avoid splintering the wood and smooth out the edges as needed.



Make a hole about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each piece. Create the holes by poking a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe or a similar sharp tool through the wood. Keep the holes along the center part of the wood. Make them as even as possible to ensure the ballista parts line up appropriately when you install them.



Glue the popsicle ends to the side pieces on the block. The sticks need to be near the tail end of the block. Also, position the sticks about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) up from the bottom edge of the block. Spread glue over the wood and press them onto the block to hold them in place.

Make sure the ends of the sticks extend over the ramp. The holes need to be about level with the top edge of the slider in order to string the launch rope through it.



Bend a metal rod to fit through the holes in the wood. Get a metal rod about 4 in (10 cm) long and about 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in width to fit through the holes. Pull the launcher piece back and thread the rod through its second groove and the holes in the sticks. Then, use pliers to bend one end of the rod back over itself. The rod forms a launch pin that stays in place until you're ready to use it.

Test the pin by attempting to move it. If it feels loose, bend the end back on itself more to keep the pin in place. Leave the other end of the pin alone so it can slide out of the hole.



Tie a string to the end of the launch pin. Cut some 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string to complete the launching mechanism. Try trimming it to about 3 to 4 in (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in length. Knot the string a few times to the bent end of the launch pin to quickly pull it out when you wish to fire the ballista.

Keep the string at a comfortable length. If it is too long or short, you may have a hard time pulling out the pin in a quick, fluid motion.



Cut cocktail skewers to about 5 in (13 cm) for ammunition. Trim the pointed ends off of as many skewers as you wish to use. When you’re ready to use the ballista, put a single arrow on the chute after pulling the slide back. Yank the string to pull the metal pin out, causing the slide to spring forward, sending the arrow through the air.

Always cut the points off of the skewers to avoid accidents. Also, never shoot the arrows at others. They can hurt, especially from bigger launchers.







Tips.

Ballista arrows are reusable. Collect the arrows after you fire them to ensure you have a steady supply of ammunition.

Small ballista designs can be blown up to create big rigs capable of throwing arrows long distances. Many big ballistas use wood planks and thick rope like the kind available at hardware stores.



Warnings.

Firing a ballista can be dangerous. To be safe, clear an area outdoors and fire it when no one else is around.

If you choose to use a saw to cut components, follow proper safety procedures to avoid injuries. Always wear earmuffs, goggles, and a dust mask.



Things You’ll Need.

Ruler, Craft knife, Wire cutters or scissors.

6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks, 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle sticks.

1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood blocks, 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-diameter wood skewers, 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-diameter wood dowels.

1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit, Drill.

1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe, Hot glue stick, Hot glue gun.

7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string, 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-diameter metal rod.
November 20, 2019


How to Make a Knight's Helmet

Making your own knight's helmet is simple and only requires a few materials. The base of your helmet will be made of poster board, but you can add any type of material onto the poster board that you'd like, such as foam or metallic paper. By cutting out a rectangle and teardrop shape before attaching the two together, you'll have created your basic helmet. After that, you can add details like plumes or visors to make your knight's helmet exactly how you'd like it.

Part 1 Creating the Basic Helmet.

1. Cut out a section of poster board that’s 10 by 28 in (25 by 71 cm) long. This will be the section of your helmet that wraps around your face and head. Lay the poster board flat on the table and use a ruler to mark a rectangle that’s 10 in (25 cm) wide and 28 in (71 cm) long. Use scissors to cut out this section of poster board.

Don't worry if the rectangle section is too long, you can trim it later on.

Purchase poster board from your local craft or big box store.

2. Apply paint to the poster board if you’re not adding additional layers. If your helmet is just going to be made of poster board, feel free to paint it a solid color like silver or gold. Use spray paint for a quick application, or use a paint brush and acrylic paints to paint the helmet section using even strokes.

Use two coats to ensure the poster board is fully covered.

Let the paint dry completely before continuing to work with the poster board. This should take 1-2 hours.

3. Fold the poster board in half crosswise. Fold the poster board horizontally instead of vertically so that it opens like a book. With the poster board folded in half, its new dimensions should be 10 in (25 cm) by 14 in (36 cm). Once the poster board has an even crease, unfold it and lay it flat again.

4. Attach additional material to the helmet if desired. If you’re putting foam or colored paper on your helmet to make it textured or colorful, use an adhesive like glue or tape to attach the material to the poster board. Make sure you don’t cover up the fold you just created, lining up the paper or foam with the fold before attaching it.

Flip the poster board over so that any excess foam or paper is visible, cutting it off using scissors so the poster board and additional materials are in line with each other.

5. Form the top of the helmet in the shape of a teardrop. The top of the helmet is made by drawing a circle slightly larger than your head onto a piece of poster board (and any other materials you’re using with the poster board). Once the circle is drawn, make a dot a few inches away from the circle, connecting it to the circle using a ruler so that the shape now resembles a teardrop.

You can find templates online for the top of the helmet to make creating it easier.

Consider creating a double layer of poster board to make the top sturdier.

Use a plate to help you draw a perfect circle, if desired.

6. Create a slit in the helmet for the eyes. Hold the rectangle section of the helmet up to your face with the fold at your nose, figuring out where the eyes would go. Measure a rectangle that’s roughly 5 in (13 cm) wide and 4 in (10 cm) high—this will be your eye slit. Use scissors or a precision blade to remove the eye portion from the large rectangle.

Make sure the center of your eye slit is lined up with the fold in the helmet.

7. Tape the sides of the helmet together so it’s whole. Join the two ends of the rectangle together, putting it on your head or the other person’s head to see where you’ll need to attach it. Use tape or a stapler to hold the two ends together.

To hide the tape, put it on the inside of the helmet.

Masking tape or duct tape works best.

8. Slide the top section into the helmet to attach it. Rest the sides of the helmet on the table so it’s sitting up straight. Slide the top section of the helmet into the sides, lining the tip of the teardrop shape with the fold in the rectangle. Push it down until the top of the helmet is touching the table. This will make it easy to hot glue or tape the two pieces together from the inside.

If the top section is too big to fit into the helmet’s sides, trim it using scissors.

If the top section is too small for the helmet's sides, you can either redo it and make it larger, or use a thick tape to attach it to the helmet's sides anyway.

Be careful if you’re using hot glue, making sure not to touch the metal tip of the glue gun.


Part 2 Adding Embellishments.

1. Create a visor for your helmet for a movable portion. Draw your visor in any shape you’d like, making sure it has slits wide enough for you to see out of. Make your visor at least 5 in (13 cm) long so it covers the entire eye slit already cut out in your helmet, and fasten it to your helmet using paper fasteners.

Look online for visor templates that you just print and cut out, if desired.

2. Add a feather to your helmet to create a plume. Choose a feather that’s long and large in any color you’d like. Create a hole in the top of your helmet, picking a spot near the edge of the helmet so that it doesn’t poke the person who’s wearing it in the head. Use a knife or sharp pen to form the hole before sticking the feather inside and gluing it in place.

Feel free to add more than one feather to the helmet, or glue or tape several feathers together to create a larger plume.

You can find feathers at your local craft or big box store.

3. Cut strips of craft foam to add detail along the edges of your helmet. Measure strips of craft foam to be roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) thick. Cut each strip out and use glue to attach the strips around the edges of the helmet. This makes the helmet look more official and detailed.

Use colored craft foam to give your helmet more personality, or paint your foam gold or silver to match your helmet.

4. Draw a coat of arms or another object on your helmet to personalize it. Use a marker to draw designs on your helmet or a symbol such as a coat of arms. Look online for inspiration for different coats of arms to draw and draw them in pencil first, if possible, in case you mess up and need to erase.

Use a black marker to add details to your helmet, or use lots of different colors to make your helmet stand out.

Pencil may not show up on foam, but you can always print out a template of something you'd like to draw and trace it using pen.


November 25, 2019


How to Make Fake Snow.

Artificial snow comes in handy for craft projects and when putting on a winter-themed event, such as a school play or the senior prom. Here are several methods for making fake snow that can top off art projects or enhance winter-themed events.

Method 1 Simple Fake Snow.

1. Tear up cotton. Take a cotton ball or cotton swab between your fingers and pull to stretch it out into wispy snow. Lay them out as a field of snow in craft projects, or reshape them into balls to make miniature snowmen.

2. Imitate falling snow with laundry soap flakes or instant potato flakes. Make a video of fluffy, falling snow by pouring this in front of the camera.

This also works as fallen snow. To make it more fancy, combine 4 cups (960mL) flakes, 1⅓ cup (320mL) liquid starch, several drops blue food coloring, and glitter.

3. Punch paper holes. Punch small holes from white paper and use the punched circles as snow. This works best when blown in front of a fan.

4. Add fake snow to snow globes. To refill a snow globe, pour in glycerine and small thermocol balls. You may use glitter or small beads instead of the thermocol.

5. Make a sparkly glaze for small craft projects. Mix ¼ cup (60mL) each of table salt and talcum powder. Spray the surface with spray-on craft glue or dab on white glue where you want the "snow" to stick. Sprinkle the sparkly mixture on the wet glue and allow to dry. Turn the project upside down to remove excess "snow."

6. Mix water with flour or baking soda. Start with white flour or baking soda. Add water one small spoonful at a time, mixing it up with a fork. Once you've formed a paste, cover the ground of a small winter scene. You can shape this into snowy hills and slopes with your hands. Sprinkle more flour over the top once finished.

Method 2 Realistic Fake Snow.

1. Combine sodium polyacrylate with water. Cut open a disposable diaper and remove the white granules; these are made from sodium polyacrylate. You can also buy it in powder or granulated form from the soil treatment section of a garden supply store. Powder makes fluffy "snow," while the granules create slushy "snow." Mix in water little by little until you obtain the desired consistency.

This may look more realistic if you put it in the freezer.

If it dries out, just add more water. If you want to keep it dry, reduce the amount of water and add salt.

2. Blend crushed ice and white paint. This melts quickly, so it will only work in a cold room. Pour the crushed ice in a big bowl, then stir in white paint. Add water slowly until the snow reaches the desired consistency.

3. Make salt crystals. With a cup of water and a string, you can grow your own salt crystals. The longer you hang the string in the water, the larger the crystals will be. Arrange these to form clumps of sparkly snow.

4. Paint the surface. You can use paint to make a surface look like it's been covered with snow. Dip an old brush into any type of white paint. Keep your thumb on the bristles, facing toward the surface. Rub the bristles gently to spray the paint onto the surface.

Don't use a nice new brush, since rubbing the bristles will damage them.

Tips.

To make a full winter scene, cover the base of a cardboard box with a flour and water "snow." Shape the snow into hills and valleys. Press a small mirror onto one of the valleys to make a pond, covering the edges with snow. Plant several twigs as trees, put the lid back on, and poke a viewing hole through the side of the box.

Continue tearing up cotton balls and gluing them down to make it look like fake snow and add a 3D effect.
November 29, 2019


How to Make a Beaded Lizard.

Here's a cute, fun, and creative afternoon activity that you can make and attach to your backpack or even wear as a necklace. All it takes are some beads, string, and a keychain clasp.

Method 1 Preparing the Body.

1. Cut a roughly three-foot length of 1/8th-inch ribbon or string. The longer the string, the longer the lizard. Three feet is a good start.

2. Fold the string in half so that the two ends meet. This will lead to a loop at the other end of the string.

3. Take the loop and run it through the bottom of a keychain clasp. Really, any sort of clasp will work. All you need to do is create a slipknot around the clasp. You should have your loop on one side of the clasp, and the long excess string on the other.

4. Pull the ends through the loop to create a slipknot. Reach into the loop and pull the strings through, pulling until tight. This creates a simple slip knot that will hold the lizard in place as you work.

5. Tape the clasp down to the table so that the strings drape towards you. Make sure the strings are not tangled up, and that you can clearly tell which string is the left string and which one is the right.

Method 2 Building the Head and Neck.

1. Add two beads to the leftmost string. These beads will be your body, so choose the color you want for the bulk of the lizard. Don't feed the beads all the way down; just let them dangle a bit towards the end. In this video, the body will be yellow.

2. Thread the right string through the beads the opposite way. If the leftmost string enters through the left, thread this one through from the right. You'll have both string going through the center of the two beads in opposite directions.

3. Pull both ends of the strings until the beads slide up to the keychain clasp. Lightly pull on the opposite ends to force the beads up to the top.

4. Feed three more beads -- two eyes and a body color -- onto the leftmost string. You want to sandwich the body bead with the two eye colors. Here, the eyes are green and the body is yellow, so you'd put them on as green, yellow, green.

5. Slide the right side through the beads and pull both ends until the beads slide to the top. Repeat the same procedure as you did with the first two body beads. Slide the three beads on the left string, thread the right through them, then pull both strings to move the beads to the top.

6. Repeat the whole procedure with two more beads to make the "neck." Take two body colors, thread them on the left, slide the right through, and pull tight. This is your neck.

7. Take three more body beads and pull them through. Again, it is the same procedure. For a little flair, you can use a different color for the center bead here, allowing you to put a "stripe" on your lizard's back.

These three beads are the beginning of the "back." You'll need to start the limbs after this.

Method 3 Building The Legs.

1. Set aside two beads for the body and three other beads for the feet. Here, the body beads are still yellow and the feet will be black.

2. Thread the two body beads on the left string and slide them down close to the body. Push them almost all the way to the body. These are your legs.

3. Slide the black beads on, just above the legs. Keep them close, but separated.

4. Thread the end of the left string through the two beads for the leg. You just want to thread through your two yellow beads, not the three for the feet.

5. Pull the string tight to pull everything together, adjusting slightly as necessary. Use your fingers to make sure nothing bunches up. This is your first leg! Note how it only requires the left string to make -- you should never touch the right one when making the left leg.

6. Repeat the process with the other string to make the right leg. Once done, it is time to move back to the body.

Method 4 Finishing the Body and Tail.

1. Build three more body rows identically to the first. Put three beads on the left string, remembering to alternate them if you're doing a two-colored body. Then slide the right string in the opposite direction as the left and pull the two ends to slide the beads up to the body.

You need three more rows before starting the feet again.

2. Make two more legs the same way you made the first two. After the three lengths of the body, add two more legs. The process is identical.

3. Add two more body beads, to make the base of the tail (identical to the neck). You should have the process down pat by now. Two beads on the left string, feed through the right string and pull tight.

4. Slide the first tail bead on the left string, thread the right string through the opposite side, and pull. The tail is simply the same process as the body, but its only one bead per layer. You can choose any color you want. Alternating looks great too, and you can use as many beads as you want for the length of tail you like.

5. Tie a double knot at the end of the tail to keep the beads in place. You can tie any knot you want, but a simple square knot will do just fine. You can use the knot used to tie your shoes as well, but make sure you double knot it.

Question : What can I do if I have lost 2 beads?
Answer : A good way to solve this without doing much damage would be to shorten the tail by two beads.

Question : What size beads should I use?
Answer : The best beads to use are pony beads. Pony beads measure about 6 by 9 millimeters, and the hole is about 4 millimeters.

Question : How can I give the lizard a longer nose?
Answer : After you secure the string to the clasp, you could first tie one bead on the string. Then you would make the lizard as explained in the article, which would give it a slightly longer nose.

Question : Can I use thread instead of string or ribbon?
Answer : Yes, you can use thread instead of string or ribbon, but I would just make sure your thread is thick enough that it won't break.

Question : What do I do if I run out of ribbon in the middle?
Answer : Undo your previous row of beads and attach new ribbon. Tie as small of a knot as possible. As a general rule, I use one inch of material per bead.

Question : What are the best beads to use for making a beaded lizard?
Answer : The best beads to use for making this are horse beads. This is because they are thick and are durable, you can buy them at any craft store or bead store.

Things You'll Need : Pony Beads (about 60), 1/8th-inch wide ribbon, Scissors, Beads, Tape, Nice flat surface (recommended).

Tips : You can mix and match colors and lengths with ease once you get used to the process. For a bigger lizard, add one bead to each smaller section (legs, head, neck) and two beads to each body section. This will keep the proportions roughly the same.


Januari 16, 2020


How to Make a Paper Bag Turkey.

Looking for a fun way to celebrate this holiday season? Whether you’re crafting homemade decorations for Thanksgiving dinner or just want to get into the spirit of autumn, making a turkey from ordinary paper bags is a quick, simple and creative activity that is sure to please children and adults alike. This project only requires a few simple materials and will add a bit of thrifty Fall flair wherever it’s displayed.

Part 1 Making the Turkey.

1. Gather your materials. For this project, you’ll need only need a handful of basic items—3 brown paper bags (1 large paper grocery bag and 2 smaller standard paper bags), 1 sheet of white 8 ½” x 11” typing paper, a few sheets of newspaper, a pair of scissors and a hot glue gun or some craft glue. Any additional materials will be up to you, depending on how elaborate you want the presentation of your finished turkey to be.

Your turkey will be made of just three easy pieces: one big bag for the body, and the two smaller bags to serve as the “drumsticks.”

Making a paper bag turkey only takes a few minutes from start to finish, leaving you with plenty of time in your day to finish playing, decorating or tackling other crafting projects.

2. Form the body of the turkey. Take the large paper bag and fill it ¾ full with crumpled newspaper. This will help fill out the body, giving it a plump appearance and preventing it from collapsing once it's ready to be displayed. After the bag has been stuffed, fold the corners down diagonally and glue them in place. Tuck the folded tab down one more time and glue it to the underside of the turkey.

Shape the body of the turkey by hand until it’s smooth and round. Be sure to work out any square edges of creases from the original bag.

Be careful not to tear the bag while sealing or shaping it.

3. Shape the drumsticks. Grab the two smaller paper bags—you’ll be using these to craft the “drumsticks” of the turkey. Make one hand into a fist and stick it into each bag, molding the opening of the bag around your wrist. This will give the bag its recognizable drumstick shape. Remove your hand from the bag and fill the rounded end with newspaper. Twist the opening of each bag shut and secure it with a dab of glue.

Like the body of the turkey, the drumsticks will need to be filled in order to hold their shape.

4. Cut the booties for the drumsticks. Your drumsticks aren’t complete until they’re dressed with a pair of frilly white booties, like a traditional Thanksgiving turkey. Cut your sheet of typing paper in half lengthwise, then fold each piece in half, again lengthwise. Use your scissors to make a series of cuts in the open edge of the paper to create a neat fringe.

Try to make your cuts about ¼ inch apart.

Your cuts only need to be about half the width of the paper.

5. Put it all together. Wrap a paper bootie around the end of each drumstick and secure them with glue. Then, place the drumsticks on either side of the sealed end of the turkey and glue them down. That’s it! The result is a quirky, lifelike baked bird that you might just mistake for the real thing.

Attach the drumsticks to the tapered sides of the body where you folded down the edges of the big bag. This will give the turkey a more realistic look.

The different parts of the turkey will have a little weight to them once they’ve been filled. Use enough glue to make sure that everything holds.

Part 2 Finding Creative Ways to Present Your Turkey.

1. Put it on a platter. Arrange your paper bag turkey on a serving platter over a bed of parsley or tissue paper garnish. Surround the turkey with fallen leaves for a splash of vibrant color. With the right details, you’ll have a mouthwatering craft turkey worthy of a fantasy feast to show off to your friends and family.

If you don't have a real serving platter lying around, make your own out of cardboard, construction paper, and colored markers.

Make sure to let everyone, especially small children, know that your paper turkey is not for eating.

2. Add colorful designs. Before you fill the paper bags, decorate the outsides for a more artistic, funky finish. Use crayons, markers, washable paint, stickers or glitter and customize your turkey with polka dots, swirls or dazzling patterns using your favorite colors. Grab a friend, sibling, parent or child to decorate your turkey with, then compare and display them together when you’re done.

If you’re using paint or a felt-tip marker that might saturate the paper bags, allow them to dry before stuffing or shaping them.

When making paper turkeys with your kids or students, have them write down one thing they’re thankful for somewhere on the big bag.

3. Fill it with “stuffing.” For an unexpected tasty twist, ditch the newspaper and fill your turkey with popcorn, candy or other easy-to-eat finger foods instead. You can then have someone “carve” the turkey by cutting a flap in the top and have something to snack on until the main course is served. This imaginative serving style is sure to be a hit at holiday parties!

Popcorn makes a simple stuffing because it’s light and takes up a lot of space, but you could use just about any snack food, like chips, pretzels or chocolates, to fill your turkey.

Try filling the drumsticks separately with caramel corn to make “dark meat.”[6]

4. Put your paper bag turkey on display. In addition to being a fun and easy project to do with your friends or loved ones, your paper turkey will make a unique arrangement for the coffee table, arts and crafts desk or kitchen counter. It will look especially good surrounded by other festive Fall decorations. Best of all, you can store the playful papercraft away or simply make a new one the next time the holiday season rolls around.

A paper bag turkey will fit nicely with other homemade holiday decorations, such as hand turkey cutouts, popsicle stick snowflakes, and construction paper pumpkins.

Tips.

This will make a great activity for parents and teachers to do alongside their children or students.

If the paper bags you’re using have any logos, writings or markings on them, carefully turn them inside out before you begin crafting.

Line the inside of your turkey with wax or parchment paper to prevent splotchy grease stains if you plan on filling it with buttered popcorn.

Make sure you have enough of whatever food item you choose to fill the large bag.

Hot glue is preferable to other adhesives because it dries quickly and creates a strong, lasting hold.

Warnings.

Take caution when working with the hot glue and scissors. Kids should ask an adult for help with the cutting and gluing portions of the project.

Staples should be avoided, as there's no way to use them to secure the different parts of the turkey without mashing them.

Things You'll Need.

3 brown paper bags (1 large and 2 small), 1 sheet white typing paper, A few sheets of crumpled newspaper.

Scissors, Hot glue or craft glue, Popcorn or other small snack foods (optional), Various decorating supplies (optional).


Desember 14, 2019


How to Make a Paper Bag Turkey.

Looking for a fun way to celebrate this holiday season? Whether you’re crafting homemade decorations for Thanksgiving dinner or just want to get into the spirit of autumn, making a turkey from ordinary paper bags is a quick, simple and creative activity that is sure to please children and adults alike. This project only requires a few simple materials and will add a bit of thrifty Fall flair wherever it’s displayed.

Part 1 Making the Turkey.

1. Gather your materials. For this project, you’ll need only need a handful of basic items—3 brown paper bags (1 large paper grocery bag and 2 smaller standard paper bags), 1 sheet of white 8 ½” x 11” typing paper, a few sheets of newspaper, a pair of scissors and a hot glue gun or some craft glue. Any additional materials will be up to you, depending on how elaborate you want the presentation of your finished turkey to be.

Your turkey will be made of just three easy pieces: one big bag for the body, and the two smaller bags to serve as the “drumsticks.”

Making a paper bag turkey only takes a few minutes from start to finish, leaving you with plenty of time in your day to finish playing, decorating or tackling other crafting projects.

2. Form the body of the turkey. Take the large paper bag and fill it ¾ full with crumpled newspaper. This will help fill out the body, giving it a plump appearance and preventing it from collapsing once it's ready to be displayed. After the bag has been stuffed, fold the corners down diagonally and glue them in place. Tuck the folded tab down one more time and glue it to the underside of the turkey.

Shape the body of the turkey by hand until it’s smooth and round. Be sure to work out any square edges of creases from the original bag.

Be careful not to tear the bag while sealing or shaping it.

3. Shape the drumsticks. Grab the two smaller paper bags—you’ll be using these to craft the “drumsticks” of the turkey. Make one hand into a fist and stick it into each bag, molding the opening of the bag around your wrist. This will give the bag its recognizable drumstick shape. Remove your hand from the bag and fill the rounded end with newspaper. Twist the opening of each bag shut and secure it with a dab of glue.

Like the body of the turkey, the drumsticks will need to be filled in order to hold their shape.

4. Cut the booties for the drumsticks. Your drumsticks aren’t complete until they’re dressed with a pair of frilly white booties, like a traditional Thanksgiving turkey. Cut your sheet of typing paper in half lengthwise, then fold each piece in half, again lengthwise. Use your scissors to make a series of cuts in the open edge of the paper to create a neat fringe.

Try to make your cuts about ¼ inch apart.

Your cuts only need to be about half the width of the paper.

5. Put it all together. Wrap a paper bootie around the end of each drumstick and secure them with glue. Then, place the drumsticks on either side of the sealed end of the turkey and glue them down. That’s it! The result is a quirky, lifelike baked bird that you might just mistake for the real thing.

Attach the drumsticks to the tapered sides of the body where you folded down the edges of the big bag. This will give the turkey a more realistic look.

The different parts of the turkey will have a little weight to them once they’ve been filled. Use enough glue to make sure that everything holds.

Part 2 Finding Creative Ways to Present Your Turkey.

1. Put it on a platter. Arrange your paper bag turkey on a serving platter over a bed of parsley or tissue paper garnish. Surround the turkey with fallen leaves for a splash of vibrant color. With the right details, you’ll have a mouthwatering craft turkey worthy of a fantasy feast to show off to your friends and family.

If you don't have a real serving platter lying around, make your own out of cardboard, construction paper, and colored markers.

Make sure to let everyone, especially small children, know that your paper turkey is not for eating.

2. Add colorful designs. Before you fill the paper bags, decorate the outsides for a more artistic, funky finish. Use crayons, markers, washable paint, stickers or glitter and customize your turkey with polka dots, swirls or dazzling patterns using your favorite colors. Grab a friend, sibling, parent or child to decorate your turkey with, then compare and display them together when you’re done.

If you’re using paint or a felt-tip marker that might saturate the paper bags, allow them to dry before stuffing or shaping them.

When making paper turkeys with your kids or students, have them write down one thing they’re thankful for somewhere on the big bag.

3. Fill it with “stuffing.” For an unexpected tasty twist, ditch the newspaper and fill your turkey with popcorn, candy or other easy-to-eat finger foods instead. You can then have someone “carve” the turkey by cutting a flap in the top and have something to snack on until the main course is served. This imaginative serving style is sure to be a hit at holiday parties!

Popcorn makes a simple stuffing because it’s light and takes up a lot of space, but you could use just about any snack food, like chips, pretzels or chocolates, to fill your turkey.

Try filling the drumsticks separately with caramel corn to make “dark meat.”[6]

4. Put your paper bag turkey on display. In addition to being a fun and easy project to do with your friends or loved ones, your paper turkey will make a unique arrangement for the coffee table, arts and crafts desk or kitchen counter. It will look especially good surrounded by other festive Fall decorations. Best of all, you can store the playful papercraft away or simply make a new one the next time the holiday season rolls around.

A paper bag turkey will fit nicely with other homemade holiday decorations, such as hand turkey cutouts, popsicle stick snowflakes, and construction paper pumpkins.

Tips.

This will make a great activity for parents and teachers to do alongside their children or students.

If the paper bags you’re using have any logos, writings or markings on them, carefully turn them inside out before you begin crafting.

Line the inside of your turkey with wax or parchment paper to prevent splotchy grease stains if you plan on filling it with buttered popcorn.

Make sure you have enough of whatever food item you choose to fill the large bag.

Hot glue is preferable to other adhesives because it dries quickly and creates a strong, lasting hold.

Warnings.

Take caution when working with the hot glue and scissors. Kids should ask an adult for help with the cutting and gluing portions of the project.

Staples should be avoided, as there's no way to use them to secure the different parts of the turkey without mashing them.

Things You'll Need.

3 brown paper bags (1 large and 2 small).

1 sheet white typing paper.

A few sheets of crumpled newspaper.

Scissors.

Hot glue or craft glue.

Popcorn or other small snack foods (optional).

Various decorating supplies (optional).


Januari 27, 2020


How to Making Your Own Book Cover.

When your favorite book is starting to look a little worn around the edges, or you’re in the mood to give the cover a makeover, try making your own book cover or creating a special cover using craft supplies. Or, if your used book is ready to be donated or replaced, don’t get rid of it just yet. You can easily repurpose old book pages into a beautiful paper wreath to decorate your home or office.

1. Choose a material to use as a book cover. You’ll want enough of this material to cover both the front and back covers of your book, and excess material to make sure the cover stays on when the book is opened or closed. A paper book cover will work best on hardcover books and may slip off of paperback books; if you’re covering a paperback book, reinforce the cover with tape if needed. Paper materials you can use to make your own book cover include:

a brown paper grocery bag that can be decorated.

an old map for history lovers or travelers.

sheet notes for musicians.

magazine pages for fashion and beauty enthusiasts.

construction paper or wrapping paper for crafters.

2. Cut more than enough paper to cover your book. Lay out more paper than you think you’ll need (similar to wrapping a gift with wrapping paper) before cutting it. Place your open book on top of the paper and measure a rectangular piece of paper larger than the book itself. A good rule of thumb is to have at least 2 inches of excess material all round the edges of your book. Cut the piece of paper you measured out.

3. Fold the top and bottom edges of your paper inward. Center the book on your paper and fold the top edge of the paper inward. Create a crease by folding it against the book’s hardcover edge. Repeat this step with the bottom edge of the paper.

If you are using printed paper like a brown grocery bag or magazine pages, place it printed side up so that any designs you don’t want shown on your cover will be hidden.

4. Finish folding the paper around the book to complete the cover. Close your book and place it slightly right to the center of your paper cover, leaving about 2 inches of excess paper on the right. Fold the left edge of the paper over the book to meet the right edge. Crease the left and right sides of your paper along the book’s edges.

You can adjust your book’s placement to make sure the edges meet evenly. This will create even side flaps for your book cover.

5. Wrap the paper securely around your book. Open your book and slide the front cover into the left flap you just made. Bring the right side of the paper over to cover the book and reinforce the right crease if needed. Then slide the back cover into the right flap. Your new book cover is ready to be shown off or decorated.

Warnings.

Be careful when using the craft knife to cut your book cover.

Do not leave a hot glue gun unattended. Be sure to turn it off and unplug it after use.

Things You’ll Need.

Making Your Own Book Cover.

paper material such as a paper bag.

a book.

scissors or a craft knife.

ruler and pencil.

Scotch tape or double-sided tape.


November 24, 2019


How to Make a Cork Snake

A great way to use up corks and a lot of fun for the kids, this cork snake is suitable for kids to make and play with. It can be as fancy or as plain as the kids desire, and a few beads added at the tail end make for rattling fun.

Part 1 Preparing the corks.

1. Drill holes directly down the center of each cork. This is really the only part that the kids can't do, so you'll need to prepare this first.

2. Brush away any cork dust and broken pieces. Discard any corks that split during the drilling process.

3. Cut one cork in half. This will be the head piece (the slit becomes the snake's mouth).

4. Cover the workspace. Painting is a messy job, especially when the kids muck in! Use newspaper, a tarpaulin, etc. to cover the painting zone.

5. Paint all of the corks. Choose a suitable color for the snake––good colors include yellow, green, brown, black, red, etc. But your snake can be hot pink or neon orange if you want!

Allow to dry before assembling the cork snake.

6. Paint patterns. This step is optional but adds to the interest of the snake. Patterns can include stripes, zig zags, spots/dots, diamonds, triangles, etc.

Again, allow to fully dry before assembling.

Part 2 Assembling the cork snake.

1. Thread the length of elastic through one of the corks with holes in its middle.

2. Add a bead next.

3. Thread the next cork onto the elastic length. Again, add another bead.

4. Continue in this way until all corks are threaded in place.

5. Make the tail end. Thread 4 to 6 beads onto the tail end to make the snake's tail. Knot firmly in place.

6. Pull the elastic through the snake to draw together all of the corks and tail. Don't pull too tightly though; allow some give so that the snake can twist and turn. There should be a good amount of elastic left at the head end, which will both hold the head and form the snake's tongue.

Part 3 Adding the head of the cork snake.

1. Make the eyes. Thread two eye colored beads onto the pipe cleaner.

2. Place one half of the cut cork round side down under the extra piece of elastic at the head end of the snake. The cork should face the same way as all the other corks (that is, the long way, not sideways).

3. Lay the elastic flat down on this cork half. Let the overlapping part stick out over the end of the cork half to become the tongue. Wrap the pipe cleaner around the cork half in such a way as to have the beads sit at the sides, evenly. These are the snake's eyes. Cut off any excess pipe cleaner.

4. Glue the other cork half down on top of the cork half with the elastic on it. This completes the snake's head. Wrap a rubber band around the head to keep the cork halves together until the glue dries firmly.

5. Finish the tongue. Cut the elastic down to a length that is suitable for the snake's tongue.

Cut a V shape into the end of the elastic to mimic the forked tongue that snakes have.

Paint this end piece of elastic a good tongue color, such as red, pink or blue.

6. Done. The snake is now ready for play. If you want it to last longer, varnish the whole snake and allow this to dry before playing.

Things You'll Need.

10 bottle corks, all of the same size and shape (although, you can make the head a different cork if preferred); it's easier if the corks come pre-drilled but might be difficult to obtain; the wider the corks, the better for this project

1 cork for cutting in half, Drill and drill bit, Paint in color of choice, suitable for a cork; acrylic paints are best.

Paint for tongue as well, Paintbrushes and cleaning water (have enough for all children participating), Cover for work space.

60cm/24 inches of flat elastic (1-1.5cm/1/2 inch width), Scissors, Pipe cleaner/chenille stick, Large beads for tail; small beads for eyes,

Rubber bands (new), Craft glue, PVA glue varnish or other suitable varnish.


Desember 03, 2019


How to Make Minnie Mouse Ears.

Mickey's sweetheart has the fashion sense to wear a bow in her ears, but Minnie mouse has very similar ears to those of her beau. In some special costumes, Minnie has also been known to wear a crown, a Santa hat, and other seasonal accents between her ears. The ears are always black, of course, and the bow usually red with white polka-dots, but you can choose your favorite patterns and colors to make the bow you place between your Minnie Mouse ears.

Part 1 Making the Ears.

1. Gather the material for making your mouse ears. You will need black felt to give your mouse ears color and texture. A cardboard core will give your fabric rigidity and form. If you don't have any cardboard, you might be able to layer several pieces of rigid construction paper together with glue as a substitute. The material you use for the ears should be stiff enough to keep it from flopping around loosely once attached to the headband and if you don’t have felt, you can paint or color the cardboard black.

Black felt, Cardboard, Rigid construction paper (optional), Household glue, Plain paper, Ribbon (10” (25 cm) long), Ribbon (3” (7 cm) long).

You should be able to purchase everything you need for this project at your local fabric or craft store.

2. Purchase a headband and tools, if necessary. The headband can be any color, but it should be at least ½" (1.27 cm) thick. You will eventually attach your mouse ears to the headband, so thicker headbands might give your mouse ears greater stability. Including a head band, you should also purchase the following tools.

Headband, Hot glue gun (and glue), Household glue, Pencil, Pipe cleaner. Scissors.

3. Make two identical paper circle templates. You should trace two circles on your paper with a pencil or your chalk. Each circle should be between 3” and 5” (7.6 and 12.7 cm) and have a ½” (1.27 cm) tab at the bottom of the circle. These templates will be used to assist you in outlining the dimensions of your mouse ears on both fabric and cardboard.

The tabs will on the bottom of your circles will be used to secure the ears and the headband together.

You might be able to use the base of a bowl to help you in drawing identical circles for both of your templates.

4. Outline your felt circles onto your felt. Place your paper template on top of the felt and trace the circle with chalk onto it. You could use a piece of tailor’s chalk, or even regular chalk in a pinch. This way, you can wipe any leftover chalk away with a damp cloth.

Make four felt circles for every pair of ears you make. You will need to glue felt to the front and back of your cardboard core to make your mouse ears uniformly black.

5. Cut your felt circles. Take your scissors and follow the chalk outlines you've drawn to cut free your felt circles free from the fabric.You can add some jazzy flair to your mouse ears by using zig-zaggy pinking shears.

Pinking shears will add a cute border to your fabric and prevent your fabric from becoming frayed.

6. Trace cardboard circles for your mouse ears. These cardboard circles will form the core of your mouse ears, making it possible for them stand up straight, just like Minnie's! Use your pencil or a piece of chalk to trace the circle template onto the cardboard.

You will need two cardboard circles for every pair of ears you make.

7. Cut out your cardboard circles. Using your scissors, follow the chalk or pencil outline you drew with your templates onto the cardboard. Be sure you don't cut off your tabs! These will be necessary to connect your mouse ears to the headband.

You may need to touch up your cardboard and felt circles/tabs to make them as close to identical as possible.

Compare and trim your felt and cardboard circles by holding the cardboard and felt pieces together in a stack. Then you can trim down any irregularities.

8. Glue the felt to the cardboard. Household glue should be sufficient to attach a piece of felt to the front and back of each cardboard circle/ear. Drizzle glue back and forth along the cardboard and press your felt into place. Press the felt to the glue firmly for five to ten minutes help it set.

To create the best bond between your glue and the felt, you may want to allow your glue to rest for 30 minutes to an hour.

Part 2 Attaching the Ears to the Headband.

1. Spread hot glue along the tabs of the ears. Regular household glue won’t hold up to wear and tear as well as hot glue. The special glue used in hot glue guns, however, is much more durable. It will create a firm bond between ear and headband.

You'll have to move quick after you apply your hot glue. The glue will dry quickly soon after application.

Hot glue fresh from the gun will be very hot. Be careful not to burn yourself.

2. Hot glue the tabs of your circles to the underside of the headband. Your circles should be at least 4” (10 cm) apart so that you have room for the bow that will go between the ears. You may want to mark your headband with your chalk where you'll be attaching the ears to prevent yourself from gluing them into the wrong place.

If your headband is flexible or will permit the use of staples, you could also use a hardy stapler to connect the tabs of your mouse ears to your headband.

3. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly. Playing with your mouse ears before the glue has completely dried could cause your mouse ears to come free of the headband. To ensure you don't have to re-glue any of your pieces together, you should allow your glue to firm for 30 minutes to an hour.

4. Style the ears into position. Your mouse ears might not stand straight up like Minnie Mouse's at first. To encourage your mouse ears to hold this position, fold both up and forward. The glued tabs will keep the ears in place.

Part 3 Creating the Bow.

1. Measure and cut a 10” (25 cm) length of ribbon or fabric. You can use either ribbon or fabric for your bow, although ribbon will likely be a little shinier and look more like the bow Minnie wears. In either case, it should be 5” to 8” (12.7 to 20.3 cm) wide. You will eventually gather this fabric around its middle, which will cause the sides to fan out. This will give your bow its shape.

Thicker cuts of fabric will create more bunching when you gather this piece around its middle, which will give your bow a fuller appearance.

2. Measure and cut a 3” (7.6 cm) gathering string. This is the piece you will use to gather the fabric around the middle of your 10" (25 cm) length of ribbon. You should use a similar kind of fabric to your 10" (25 cm) ribbon, but you could also add some pop to your design by using a contrasting color fabric.

For example, if you are using Minnie's traditional bow color, red with white polka-dots, you might choose a bold blue for your gathering string.

3. Lay the 10" (25 cm) piece of ribbon on a flat surface. Put the print side face down. You're going to want to glue your gathering string along the back of your bow, which will be the same as the opposite side of the pattern.

4. Fold the long ends your 10" (25 cm) ribbon toward its center. You'll want each side to overlap slightly at the center of your 10" (25 cm) length of ribbon. Fold one end at a time so that there is enough overlap to glue these side where the meet at the center of the ribbon.

5. Glue the folded inward ends at the overlap. It should only take a dab or two of hot glue or fabric glue to join the ends together firmly. Press the fabric firmly to create a stronger bond between the fabric and glue.

You should follow the directions on your glue to achieve the best bond. Some glues will set and cure faster than others. Generally, you should hold the glue firmly for one to five minutes for best results.

6. Arrange your ribbon into a bow shape. Use one hand to pinch your ribbon together toward its centermost point from the top and bottom edges. This will be easiest to do if you are working with a ribbon that is at least 5” (12.7 cm) wide.

Pinching your ribbon together tightly will cause the outside edges to flare out more dramatically.

7. Loosely wrap your gathering string around your bunched ribbon. The 3” (7.6 cm) piece of ribbon will hold the fabric of your bow in its flared position. Wind it around several times and then remove your fingers where you were pinching the bow in the middle.

Hold the ribbon with your free hand to make sure it doesn't come unwound or loose.

Wind the remaining length of your ribbon around the center tightly.

8. Glue the gathering string in place. Lift one end of the small piece of ribbon and apply a dab of hot glue or fabric glue. If using hot glue, you should be careful not to burn yourself by pressing on the fabric immediately after glue application.

To apply pressure to make the best seal between your hot glue and fabric, you might use a tool to prevent getting burned, like a paperweight, gloved hand, or tweezers.

Fabric glue and other cold glues should be held together firmly to encourage a strong bond. Press the glued piece of ribbon together. Hold this position for about 30 seconds to a minute.

Part 4 Attaching the Bow to the Headband.

1. Slip a pipe cleaner through a fold in your bow. The bunchings of your bow fabric should have created folds through which you can thread your pipe cleaner so that it passes under your glued gathering string.

If you find it difficult to feed your pipe cleaner through a fold and under your gathering string, you can always use glue to attach the pipe cleaner along the back of your bow.

A dab of hot glue onto the back of your gathering string should be enough to hold your pipe cleaner in place.

2. Cross one end of the piper cleaner over the other. Orient your pipe cleaner so it is equal length on both sides of your gathering string. Now cross the sides of your pipe cleaner at the midpoint over the front of your gathering string and add a twist.

This will prevent the pipe cleaner from slipping out of the bow while adding stability to the bow in general.

Experiment with different colored pipe cleaners to personalize your Minnie Mouse ears!

3. Secure your bow with the loose ends of the pipe cleaner. Center the bow between the ears. Then you're going to wrap each end of the pipe cleaner around opposite ends of your headband. Twine each side of the pipe cleaner down opposite ends of the headband until you go no further.

The ends of pipe cleaner can be pointy. To prevent the wearer from getting poked, you may want to turn these inward on your headband. The ends can also be taped to the headband as an extra precaution.

By attaching your bow to your mouse ears with a pipe cleaner, you'll be able to swap out different bows without having to make a new pair of mouse ears.

Twist ties can be used to reinforce your pipe cleaners if you find the pipe cleaner windings are not holding the bow in place well enough.

4. Add finishing touches and show off your mouse ears. Minnie, being a stylish mouse, would probably go ga-ga over some rhinestones, glitter, feathers, or other accents you might add to your mouse ears. Most of these can be attached with a small dab of hot glue. Once you've finished adding your finishing touches, you should show off your mouse ears to all your friends.

Tips.

Use a black felt tip marker to color white pipe cleaners if you don't want the white to show too much.

Warnings.

Hot glue emerges from the gun applicator at a very high temperature. Whenever using hot glue, you should follow the instructions that came with your glue gun and take care.

Things You’ll Need.

Ribbon (10” (25 cm) long), Ribbon (3” (7 cm) long), Black felt, Black felt tip marker, black crayon or paint (optional), Cardboard.

Chalk, Foam (optional), Headband, Hot glue gun, Household glue, Pipe cleaner, Plain paper, Scissors, Stiff construction paper (optional).


Desember 12, 2019