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Menampilkan postingan yang diurutkan menurut relevansi untuk kueri Projects Made Out Of Wood. Urutkan menurut tanggal Tampilkan semua postingan




How to Remove Paint from Wood.



There are multiple ways to remove paint from wood. If you're working with small splatters, you can usually wipe them away without much hassle. For larger paint stripping projects, you will need to use heat, force, or chemical removers. Here's what you should know about each method.





Removing Paint Marks.



Remove fresh latex paint with water A spot of latex paint can usually be removed by wiping it up with a soft, water-soaked rag.

Soak a soft, clean cloth rag in warm water.

Wring out some of the excess water to prevent the rag from dripping over unaffected areas. Scrape the paint away

Wipe away the spot of paint. You may need to rinse and re-soak the rag several times to get all of the paint up.

Wipe the wood dry with a separate, dry rag.



Use denatured alcohol if the water does not work. If you have a latex paint splatter on your wood that you cannot wipe away with plain water, wipe it away with denatured alcohol, instead.

Apply enough alcohol to a clean rag to dampen it without making it dripping wet.

Pass the alcohol-soaked rag over the paint spot to remove it. Rinse, resoak, and repeat as needed.

Dry the spot with a clean, dry rag when finished.



Remove fresh oil-based paint with mineral spirits. Oil-based paint will continue clinging to the wood if you use plain water, so wipe it away with a soft rag dabbed in mineral spirits.

Dip a soft, clean rag into a small dish of mineral spirits. Instead of soaking the entire rag, only soak the area you plan on bringing into contact with the paint splatter.

Wipe up the paint by passing the mineral spirit over the splatter. Rinse and resoak as needed until all the paint has been removed.

Dry the area with a separate dry rag.



Remove dried paint with boiled linseed oil. Dry spots of paint can be softened by soaking and rubbing them away with boiled linseed oil.

Soak a clean rag in boiled linseed oil.

Press the linseed oil rag against the paint spot and hold in place for 30 to 60 seconds. This permits the oil to soak into the paint.

Wipe away the softened paint with your linseed oil soaked rag.

Dry the area with a separate dry rag.



Use a putty knife, if necessary, for stubborn dried spots. If you cannot wipe the paint away even after softening it with boiled linseed oil, carefully use a putty knife to scrape beneath the splatter and lift it off the wood.



Strip residue with a linseed oil paste. Any dried paint residue that remains can be removed by rubbing it with a paste made of boiled linseed oil and rottenstone.

Combine enough boiled linseed oil and rottenstone in a small disposable dish to form a thick paste. Use a disposable wooden chopstick to stir the ingredients together.

Scoop some of the paste onto a clean rag and rub the paste into the wood along the grain.

Wipe away the grain using another clean rag.











Removing Paint with Heat.



Hold a heat gun near the surface of the wood. Position the heat gun 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) above the painted wooden surface after you switch the heat gun on.

Use an electric heat gun or electric paint remover. A blowtorch will also provide the necessary amount of heat, but blowtorches come with a greater risk of scorching or setting the wood on fire, so they are not recommended.

Wear protective gloves and goggles as you work with the heat gun.

Do not let the heat gun come into contact with the wood or come too close to the wood. Doing so may result in scorch marks or fire.



Slowly move the heat gun over the surface. Pass the heat gun over the surface of the section of wood you are currently working on. Continue passing it side-to-side and up-and-down without ceasing.

Do not let the heat gun linger in one spot for a prolonged period. Doing so will cause the wood to burn and potentially catch on fire.



Scrape the paint up as it wrinkles. Once the paint begins to bubble and wrinkle, immediately scrape the paint up with a broad paint scraper.

If possible, continue to heat the paint with the heat gun in one hand as you scrape up bubbling paint with your other hand. If you have difficulty balancing both tasks, though, switch the heat gun off temporarily and scrape up any heated paint immediately.



Stay calm if a fire starts. Even though it is possible for the wood to catch fire, these fires are usually small at the start and can be put out safely as long as you think clearly.

A small flame can usually be put out by smothering it with the flat side of your paint scraper.

Keep a bucket of water nearby as you work. If a fire starts to catch and cannot be smothered out, quickly soak it with the water.











Removing Paint with Force.



Protect yourself. Wear safety goggles and a face mask to protect yourself from paint and wood dust as you sand, regardless of the sanding method you use.



Sand the paint off by hand when possible. When removing paint from a crack or crevice or stripping it from a small, delicate wooden object, you should sand the paint off by hand.

Mechanical sanders use considerable force and can damage delicate pieces. Moreover, they can be difficult to use on small, confined spaces.

Use coarse, open-coat sandpaper since other types may clog with paint and wood dust too quickly.

Sand with the grain of the wood instead of against it.

Decrease to a medium grit paper once you can see the grain of the wood peeking through the paint.

Decrease to a fine grit when small bits of paint are all that remain.



Switch to a mechanical sander for larger jobs. For larger areas of painted wood, including large pieces of wood furniture, large wooden chests, or wood trim, rely on a mechanical sander to save time.

Choose between a mechanical hand sander and a power sander. A hand sander will be a little gentler and makes a good option if you want to preserve more of the wood beneath the paint. A power sander will finish the job faster, though, making it a good choice for especially large projects.

Belt, disk, and drum sanders are all good options worth considering when picking a power sander.

Use coarse, open-coat sandpaper on your mechanical sander since less coarse options tend to clog up with paint and wood dust too easily.

Always sand with the grain of the wood rather than against it to minimize the amount of damage to the wood.

Switch to a fine grain sandpaper, if desired, once the majority of the paint has been sanded off and only a few small specks remain.













Removing Paint with Chemical Paint Strippers.



Choose the right type of paint stripper. Look for a paint stripper labeled for use with the type of paint you want to remove. Also choose between a liquid or paste paint stripper.

Liquid chemicals are often applied in spray form and are usually used to clean coatings or a couple of layers.

Paste chemicals are brushed on and are used to strip many layers of paint. If you need to remove 10 layers or more, choose a paste.

Read the instructions thoroughly before use. While the application procedure is the same for most chemical paint strippers, the exact details may vary. Always follow the instructions that come with the paint stripper.



Pour a small amount of paint stripper in a wide-mouth metal can. Pouring a small amount in a small can makes it easier to use the paint remover.

If possible, use a can with a plastic resealable lid.



Brush the paint stripper on with a paint brush. Use a broad flat paintbrush to apply the chemical thickly and evenly over the surface of the painted wood.

Brush the paint stripper on in one direction.

Do not brush over areas that have already been covered by paint stripper.



Alternatively, spray the paint stripper on. If using an aerosol paint stripper, point the nozzle of the bottle roughly 4 inches (10 cm) away from the surface of the painted wood and apply the chemical in an even, thick layer.

The chemical will create a foaming, clinging layer.



Let sit for as long as directed. Usually, the paint remover should be left on the surface for 20 to 30 minutes, but exact times may vary.

Keep the windows and doors of the room open to prevent potentially harmful fumes from building up as the chemical sits.



Test the paint. Rub the blade of a paint scraper over the surface in a circular motion. If the scraper cuts into the paint, the chemical has worked correctly.

Make sure that the scraper you use is chemical-resistant.



Scrape the paint off with a metal scraper. Glide the paint scraper beneath the softened paint to peel it away.

Remove as much as possible with the first few passes.

Work in one direction.



Touch up the surface with soaked steel wool. If some paint still remains, soak medium-grade steel wool in a small amount of paint remover and scrub those spots until they lift up.

Old rags or abrasive scouring pads will also work.



Things You'll Need.

Clean rags.

Water.

Denatured alcohol.

Mineral spirits.

Linseed oil.

Rottenstone.

Heat gun.

Broad paint scraper.

Safety goggles.

Face mask.

Safety gloves.

Sandpaper.

Mechanical sander.

Chemical paint stripper.




November 09, 2019


How to Get Ideas for Crafts and Projects.

Crafters, makers and builders create beautiful items out of raw materials. If you are a crafter that is unable to think of your next project, there are many ways that you can get new ideas. Crafting is one of the most popular subjects of blogs, magazines, classes and more, and its popularity has only risen as the Internet has become an easy way to share methods, techniques and projects. Depending upon how you like to learn, you can choose the most comfortable option. Select your specific area of crafting and search for the newest crafting projects using these avenues. Read more to find out how to get ideas for crafts and projects.

Steps.

1. Join a quilting bee, knitting circle or scrap booking club. Monthly meetings give the opportunities for exchanging ideas, showing off projects and doing group projects.

This is also a great way to meet people with similar interests and form lasting friendships. Crafting often allows you to talk to other people and learn their stories. Many rural communities have quilt guilds, knitting bees and craft circles that stay intact for decades.

2. Take night classes. Most cities have a group that is devoted to community education and gives a catalog of classes at a small fee. These can include anything from jewelry making to scrap booking to wood working.

Search online for "Lifelong learning classes" in your town or "Community education." Most classes happen once or twice a week over a period of months and they teach you new skills and give you many ideas for projects.

3. Get a subscription to a do-it-yourself magazine. Depending upon your preferences, there are many options. Magazine subscriptions can be bought from a website, Amazon, or a magazine prescription service, and it is a good idea to look for the best offer.

Good options for crafters include Martha Stewart Living, Card Maker, This Old House, American Style, Creative Knitting, Do-It-Yourself, Ready Made, American Craft, Crafts and Hobbies, Quilter, Paper Crafts, Creative Woodwork and Crafts, Car Craft. Knit'N Style, Sew News and Creating Keepsakes.

You may want to go to a supermarket and buy a few issues of each of these magazines to decide which one would be the best monthly subscription.

4. Get involved with Blogger, WordPress and other blogging platforms. Once you have a profile you can subscribe to craft blogs and check back whenever you need a fresh idea.

You may hear of craft bloggers referred to as "choggers." Start by checking out popular blogs, such as Bakerella, Cuteable, Dollar Store Crafts, Not Martha and the Pearl Bee. There are thousands of blogs to choose from, and they may also provide an email newsletter.

5. Sign up for email newsletters from magazines like Real Simple, Better Homes and Gardens and Ready Made. They will send you weekly or monthly issues depending upon your preferences, filled with new ideas from their crafters-in-residence.

6. Inquire at local stores if they do classes. In order to drum up business, stores often provide classes for a small fee as long as you buy the materials. For instance, a knitting business may teach their patrons how to use a new set of knitting needles in order to sell more sets.

7. Go online and simply search for patterns or templates. If you are looking for children's crafts, this is the fastest and least expensive option. If you cannot afford patterns for quilting and knitting, there are a number of free online templates that you can find using an Internet search and a printer.


Things You'll Need.

Community craft circles.

Craft magazines.

Craft blogs.

Email newsletters.

Printer.
November 25, 2019


20 common embroidery mistakes


Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.



Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.



Not Reading the Instructions

Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.



Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric

Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.



Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle

Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.



Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle

Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.



Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots

Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with ​a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.



Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness

Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.



Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread

Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.



Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen

It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.



Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils

Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.



Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted

When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.



Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame

Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.



Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction

Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).



Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing

Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.



Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting

Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.



Getting Your Project Dirty

Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.



Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type​​

If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.



Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching

You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.



Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly

Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.



Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight​​

Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.



Rushing to Fix a Mistake

If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.



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Note :

Acknowledgements

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November 01, 2019