how to creating an insulated box

How to Creating an Insulated Box.

There are lots of ways to make a homemade cooler using readily available insulating materials. Using a lidded box, foil, and recycled packaging materials, you can make a small, simple cooler. For a larger, more effective design, line a cardboard box with foam board. If you need something more portable, you could also sew an insulated lunch bag to keep items cold when you’re on the go.



Steps.



Remove the top flaps from a cardboard box. Use a pair of scissors or utility knife to cut off the top flaps. Keep in mind you’ll be building layers of foam about 6 in (15 cm) thick inside the box. Choose a box large enough to hold all of that insulation and still have room to store foods and drinks.

For example, if you use a 24 by 24 in (61 by 61 cm) box, the space available for storage will be 18 by 18 in (46 by 46 cm).

A cardboard box is the easiest choice, but a large plastic tote would work. You could also make your own box out of wood.



Line the box with a trash bag, shower curtain, or plastic tablecloth. Place a trash bag, or another type of waterproof material, into the box as if you were lining a trash can. Press the bag into the box’s corners, and take care not to tear the bag. Keep the bag flat against the sides of the box, then trim the bag so it’s flush with the top of the box.

Duct tape the bag to the top of the box; add strips of tape along the box’s entire top edge. Give the bag some slack so there’s extra material at the bottom corners. It’ll tear easily if it’s too tight.

The waterproof layer will help keep melted ice or condensation from getting the cardboard soggy. A trash bag is inexpensive and readily available, but a shower curtain or plastic tablecloth would be sturdier.



Cut 5 panels of 1 in (2.5 cm) foam to line the inside of the box. Use craft foam boards or sheets of foam board insulation. Measure the box’s bottom and sides, cut a panel that matches the box’s bottom, and make the side panels 2 in (5.1 cm) shorter than the box.

Cut 2 of the side foam panels 2 in (5.1 cm) shorter to account for the thickness of the other 2 panels. Suppose you have a 24 by 24 by 24 in (61 by 61 by 61 cm) box; make 2 of the panels 24 in (61 cm) long. Since the panels are each 1 in (2.5 cm) thick, make the other 2 panels 22 in (56 cm).

Cut with the grain of the foam to keep the edges straighter.



Glue the foam panels inside the box. Start by gluing the bottom board to the base of the box. Take care not to tear the waterproof layer. Then glue a foam panel to each side of the box's interior.

Once they’re glued into place, the tops of the side panels should be 1 in (2.5 cm) below the box’s top edge. Each side is 2 in (5.1 cm) shorter than the box, but the bottom foam panel adds an extra 1 in (2.5 cm) to their height.



Use 4 more foam panels to create an inner box. Make 2 of the panels about 4 in (10 cm) smaller in width than the sides of the box. Cut the other 2 panels 6 in (15 cm) smaller than the box’s sides. All 4 sides should be 1 in (2.5 cm) shorter than the height of the box.

Glue the 4 panels together to make an inner box. This smaller inner box is actually the storage space. You'll fill the gap between the inner foam box and the panels that line the cardboard box with insulation. All of these layers of insulating material will help keep the cooler nice and cold.



Glue the inner box into place. Center the foam box inside the cardboard box. There should be a 3 to 4 in (7.6 to 10.2 cm) space between the 2 sets of foam panels on all 4 sides. After double checking the fit, glue the inner foam box into place.



Fill the gaps between the panels with vermiculite or spray foam. Pour vermiculite between the panels, or use spray foam insulation. If you use spray foam, pause between applications to allow the foam to expand. If it expands beyond the tops of the panels, give it an hour to dry, then trim the excess foam with a utility knife.

In a pinch, fill the gap with packing peanuts, bubble wrap, or Styrofoam. Fiberglass insulation would also work.



Make 4 strips of 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) foam board. Cut strips of foam wide enough the cover the insulation-filled gaps. If each gap is 4 in (10 cm) wide and each foam panel is 1 in (2.5 cm) thick, the cover strips should be 6 in (15 cm) wide.

Cut 2 of the strips, then set them over the gaps on parallel sides of the box. Measure the length between the 2 covers, then cut 2 more strips to match that length.

Be sure to use 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick foam board for the strips to leave room for the box’s lid.



Glue the cover strips over the gaps. Apply beads of craft glue over the foam panels that line the cardboard box and the ones that form the inner box. Then set the cover strips into place over the insulation-filled gaps.

Remember to place the longer cover strips across from each other.



Use a sheet of 1 in (2.5 cm) foam for the lid. Measure the perimeter of the top of the box, and cut a foam panel to match. Since the strips that cover the insulation-filled gaps are 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick, there should be a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) lip formed by the sides of the cardboard box. This lip should hug the sides of the lid.

If you’d like, glue handles or knobs to the top of the lid so it’s easier to remove. If you made a wooden box, you could make a wooden, foam-lined lid and join it to the box with a hinge.





Things You'll Need.

Insulated Box.

Large cardboard box.

Trash bag, plastic shower curtain, or plastic tablecloth.

Scissors or utility knife.

Duct tape.

10 1 in (2.5 cm) thick foam board panels.

1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick foam board panel.

Craft glue.

Vermiculite or spray foam.

November 12, 2019

how to make a jack in the box

How to Make a Jack in the Box.

A Jack in the Box is a fun toy that's been around for hundreds of years. While it may seem complex, a Jack in the Box actually works with very simple mechanics. Making your own can be a fun arts and crafts activity. With some cardboard, glue, magnets, a spring, and a few other parts, you can make your very own Jack in the Box.







Part 1 Constructing the Box.



Find a sturdy piece of cardboard. You'll need a thick and sturdy piece of cardboard for the box to support itself. The kind from a large packing box should work well.

You'll be cutting out 6 squares that are each 6" x 6" (15 cm x 15 cm), so your piece of cardboard will need to be at least 18" x 12" (45 cm x 30). If you can't find a piece that big, then several pieces will work fine too.



Draw six 6" X 6" (15 cm x 15 cm) boxes on the piece of cardboard. These six squares will form the walls, floor, and lid of your Jack in the Box. Use a ruler to measure and make sure your lines are straight.

Make sure you use a dark pen or marker. Otherwise, you may not be able to see your lines when you cut.



Cut out each box. Use a pair of sharp scissors or a box cutter. Carefully cut along the lines you drew so the cardboard squares are the right size. If you're using a box cutter, make sure the cardboard is placed on a solid surface.

Wear gloves during this step to prevent paper cuts or any injuries for the scissors or box cutter.



Glue 4 of the squares together, making a cube with no top or bottom. Hot glue is the best choice for this step. White glue won't be strong enough to keep the box together. This forms the outside structure of the box.

Glue the edges of the cardboard together to form the cube. If the glue doesn't seem to be making a strong seal, you can use strips of tape to secure the cube while the glue hardens.



Glue another square to the bottom of the cube. Line up the square perfectly with the rest of the cube or your box will be uneven. This will form the floor of the box.

Lay the square down flat and put glue around the edge. Then slowly lower the box onto the square, making sure the glue makes contact with all edges of the box.



Make a hinge with the final square. Don't glue the final square to the box, or your Jack in the Box won't open. Instead, rest the square on top of the box, making sure to line up all the sides. Then, use a strip of tape to fasten one side of the square to the box. This will form a simple hinge that allows your box to open.

Clear tape is the best choice here. Colored tape might throw off your designs when you decorate your box later on.







Part 2 Sealing the Box.



Find 2 small magnets. There are lots of ways you could make the seal for your box, but a simple method uses magnets. Start by finding 2 magnets. These should be square or circle and small, not more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) long.

Craft or hardware stores usually have small magnets that are meant to hold boxes or cabinets closed. Looking for these should give you a good start.

Remember to find out which sides of the magnets attract each other. Those are the two sides you'll line up when making your seal.



Glue one magnet to the bottom of the box's lid. This should be on the opposite side where you placed the tape. On the edge of the lid and in the center, glue the first magnet.



Glue another magnet directly under the first magnet. The next magnet should be placed on the inside wall of the box so the two magnets touch each other when the lid is closed. In this position, they will attract each other and keep the box sealed.

To find the right position for the second magnet, start by closing the box slowly. This way you'll be able to see where the magnet will rest when the box is sealed. The best place for the second magnet is right under that point, so the two magnets touch when the lid is closed.



Test out your seal. See if your seal is holding after you glue both magnets. Pull up slightly to see how tight the seal is. Flip the box upside down and see if it holds.







Part 3 Making the Spring Puppet.



Glue a compression spring to the bottom of the box. Draw a circle in the middle of the box's floor to see where you'll place the spring. Then put glue on the bottom of the spring and place it over the circle you drew. Hold the spring down for a few seconds to make sure the glue seals.

Compression springs come in lots of sizes. For this project, you'll want one that's slightly taller than the box, or about 7 inches (18 cm). Your local craft store should have plenty of options.

Test the seal by making sure the box stays closed when the spring is in place. If the box doesn't stay closed, your spring is too big or your seal is too loose.



Put a sock puppet on the spring. Your Jack in the Box needs a character to pop out! A sock puppet is perfect because it can fit snugly over the spring.

You could also draw and cut out a simple face from a piece of paper and glue it to the top of the spring for a simpler design.



Test your box. With all the pieces in place, it's time to make sure your box is working! Put it on a table and lift up the lid. Your puppet should pop out of the box when you do this.



Decorate your box. Now that your box is complete, you can decorate it however you want! Use markers to draw on its sides, glue sparkly paper over it, cover it with stickers--use your imagination!





Tips.

Remember to let all glue dry before you move on. Wait a few minutes after you glue pieces together to make sure the glue holds or your box could warp as you work.



Things You'll Need.

Cardboard.

Hot glue.

Scissors.

Ruler.

Clear tape.

Gloves.

Pen or marker.

Compression spring.

Magnets

November 18, 2019

how to making a simple cooler from insulating material

How to Making a Simple Cooler from Insulating Material.

There are lots of ways to make a homemade cooler using readily available insulating materials. Using a lidded box, foil, and recycled packaging materials, you can make a small, simple cooler. For a larger, more effective design, line a cardboard box with foam board. If you need something more portable, you could also sew an insulated lunch bag to keep items cold when you’re on the go.



Steps.

Line the outside of a lidded cardboard or plastic box with foil. Glue the aluminum foil to the outside of the box and lid. Go with a box that’s large enough to hold the items you’d like to keep cold. A shoe box or small plastic tote, for instance, would work well if you just need to store your lunch.

Attach the foil to the box so the shiny side faces out. The more light the foil reflects, the less heat the box will absorb.

If you’re using a cardboard box, glue foil onto the inside, too. Use a single sheet of foil large enough to cover the entire interior. Carefully mold the foil into the corners, and try not to tear it. Lining the inside with foil can help keep the cardboard from getting soggy.



Glue bubble packaging, thick fabric, or packing peanuts inside the box. Glue your insulating material to the lid’s underside and to the bottom and sides of the box’s interior. Recycled packaging materials, thick nylon, or cotton are all good choices.

Avoid covering the lip of the lid with insulating material, and make sure it can still fit over the box.



Seal the box with foil if the lid doesn’t tightly close. Place an ice pack and the items you’re storing into the box, then cover it with the lid. If you used a plastic container, it should seal tightly. To seal a cardboard box, place a sheet of foil over the lid, fold it over the sides, then crumple it tightly around the box.

The box should keep your items cold for about 4 hours. If possible, keep the box away from direct light and sources of heat.



Things You'll Need.

Simple Cooler.

Lidded plastic or cardboard box.

Aluminum foil.

Craft glue.

Packaging peanuts, thick fabric, or bubble wrap.

November 12, 2019

how to make bottle penguins

How to Make Bottle Penguins.

There are lots of ways to recycle plastic soda bottles, and turning them into adorable penguins is one of them. With a little bit of paint, time, and creativity, you can turn 2 plastic soda bottles into an adorable penguin. If you have a lot of plastic soda bottles then you can create an entire penguin family!

Part 1 Assembling the Base.

1. Find 2 plastic soda bottles. The large, 2-liter (67.2-oz) bottles will work the best for this, but you can use smaller soda bottles too. Look for the kind that have the 4 bumps on the bottom. These bumps will make the feet and the hat.

The color of the bottles does not matter. You will be painting it.

2. Remove the labels and wash the bottles. Peel the labels off first, then wash the bottles inside-out with soap and warm water. Be sure to remove all sticker residue. Dry the bottles with a towel.

Wipe the bottles down with rubbing alcohol as well. This will remove any oils that might keep the paint from sticking. Let the bottles dry; this should only take a few seconds.

3. Cut the bottles in half and recycle the top sections. A craft blade will work the best for this, but you can do it with a sharp pair of scissors too. Young children should be supervised during this step.

If the cut edge is jagged, cut it smoother with a pair of scissors.

For a smaller penguin, cut the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) off of the first bottle, and cut the second bottle in half. The shorter half will make the bottom.

4. Tuck 1 bottle inside the other to make a capsule. Turn the bottles so that the cut edges are facing one another. Slide the first bottle into the second bottle by about 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). If the bottles won't fit inside one another, cut a 1⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) slit into 1 of the bottles first; place this edge on the inside.

Make sure that the 4 bumps on the top and bottom of the capsule line up.

5. Glue the bottles together, if desired. If the bottles are loose, glue them together with tacky glue or super glue. Pull the bottles apart, and paint the inside rim of 1 bottle with glue. Slide it over the other bottle.

Hot glue is not recommended because it is too bulky.

Alternatively, you can keep the bottles loose, and use the penguin as a gift box.

Part 2 Painting the Penguin.

1. Paint the entire capsule black, then let it dry. Take the capsule outside or into a well-ventilated area. Set it down on a sheet of newspaper, then coat it with black spray paint. Let the paint dry for 15 to 20 minutes, then turn the capsule over. Spray paint the bottom and let it dry completely.

Hold the can 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) from the capsule, and spray using a side-to-side motion.

If the paint is too thin, let it dry completely, then apply another coat of paint.

If you don't have spray paint, paint the capsule using black acrylic craft paint and a paintbrush.

2. Paint the penguin's face and belly white, then allow them to dry. Use a pointed paintbrush and white acrylic craft paint to outline the white face and belly of the penguin. Fill your outline in using a flat paintbrush. Let the paint dry, then add another layer if the first layer is too thin. Let the second layer dry too, if you added it.

Look at pictures of real or cartoon penguins to get ideas for the placement of the white parts.

Make sure that 2 of the bumps on the base of the capsule line up with the bottom of the penguin's belly. These are its feet!

If you are making a smaller penguin, use the shorter half to make the bottom.

3. Give the penguin a widow's peak, if desired. Use a pointed brush and black acrylic craft paint to draw a V-shape at the top of the penguin's white face. Fill the V-shape in with black paint so that it blends in with the body. For an even nicer finish, made the sides of the V-shape curved so that it looks like Mickey Mouse's widow's peak. Let the paint dry before moving on.

4. Paint 2 eyes and a beak using acrylic craft paint. Use a yellow upside-down triangle for the beak, and 2 black dots for the eyes. For a more realistic beak, paint a yellow or orange circle, then draw a horizontal black line going through the middle.

Look at pictures of cartoon penguins to get ideas.

You can also hot glue 2 buttons or 2 googly eyes for the eyes.

If you don't have yellow paint, cut a triangle out of yellow paper, and glue that on instead.

Part 3 Adding Optional Details.

1. Give your penguin character with lashes, eyebrows, and/or blush. You don't have to do any of these, but they can really give your penguin personality. Use a very thin brush for the lashes and/or eyebrows, or a paint pen. Use a larger pointed brush to apply pink paint for the blush.

If you want to give your penguin visible yellow feet, paint the 2 bumps in the front (under the white bellow) with yellow acrylic craft paint.

2. Paint the top half of the bottle to turn it into a hat. The 4 bumps on top of your penguin's head can easily turn into a hat. Paint a line around the penguin's head, just above the eyes, then fill in everything above that line. Use whatever color you want.

If you have a molded line just below the bumps, you can use that as a guide instead.

3. Let the hat dry, then add some details. You can make the hat look more hat-like by painting or drawing some stripes or spots onto it. Use a thin, pointed paintbrush and acrylic craft paint in a contrasting color to do this. Let the paint dry when you are done.

Use a paint pen for thin stripes or small dots.

4. Glue a pompom to the top of the hat, if desired. You can make the pompom yourself out of yarn, or you can buy it from the kids section of a craft store. Hot glue the pompom to the top of the hat, right between all 4 bumps.

Choose a pompom color that matches the designs on your hat. If you did not add designs, then use a contrasting color instead.

5. Tie ribbon around the neck to make a scarf. Find some ribbon that goes well with the hat. Wrap the ribbon around the penguin's neck, then cross the left end over the right end. Bring the left end up through the gap, then tighten it. This is just like starting to tie a pair of shoes!

Glue both ends of the ribbon to the penguin so that they stay down.

If you are turning this into a gift box, make sure that you keep the ribbon below the seam.

You can also cut a long, skinny strip out of felt, and use that instead of ribbon. Cut fringes into each end for additional charm.

Question : How do we make the eyes?
Answer : Cut out two small black circles, and two slightly larger yellow circles. Glue the black circles onto the yellow circles, and glue those onto the white face.

Question : We don't have to remove the bottle cap?
Answer : If you have removed the cap, you will have to tape or otherwise plug the hole on the top to "sculpt" the rounded top of the head on, so it is not recommended to remove the cap. However, taping or a cork replacement can be used.

Question : Can I use a plastic bottle?
Answer : Yes, but it may be hard to paint.

Tips.

If you want your penguin to have a pointy hat, discard 1 of the bottom halves and keep 1 of the top halves. Use the top half as the hat.

Use paintbrushes made from sable or taklon bristles. Do not use boar bristle, horsehair, or camelhair.

Spray the penguin with varnish or sealer, if desired. Do this after you finish painting, but before you add pompoms and scarves.

You can spray the capsule with paint primer first to help the paint stick better.

If you are worried about the paint chipping, spray the capsule with paint primer before you start painting.

Warnings.

Use low-temp hot glue guns to avoid blisters and burns. Do not use high-temp hot glue guns.

Things You'll Need.

2 plastic soda bottles, Craft blade, Black spray paint, Acrylic craft paint (white, yellow, and black).

Acrylic craft paint, 2 contrasting colors, Flat and pointed paintbrushes, Ribbon or felt, Pompom, Hot glue, Tacky glue or super glue.

Januari 23, 2020

how to sewing an insulated lunch bag

How to Sewing an Insulated Lunch Bag.

There are lots of ways to make a homemade cooler using readily available insulating materials. Using a lidded box, foil, and recycled packaging materials, you can make a small, simple cooler. For a larger, more effective design, line a cardboard box with foam board. If you need something more portable, you could also sew an insulated lunch bag to keep items cold when you’re on the go.



Steps.



Select waterproofing, insulating, and outer materials. Use waterproof material for the innermost layer, insulating material for the middle layer, and a fabric you find attractive for the outer layer.

Laminated cotton, PUL lining, and vinyl are your best options for waterproof materials. If you want to stick with recycled materials, you could use a plastic tablecloth or a plastic shower curtain.

Thermal batting, which you can find at a craft or fabric store, is the best insulating material. If you're on a budget, you can recycle thin flexible foam or bubble wrap. Thin craft foam or packing foam might work, but the lunch bag will be stiffer.

Pick a durable, easy-to-clean material for the outer layer, like canvas or denim.



Make 3 rectangles made of each material. For each material, cut a 10 by 26 1⁄2 in (25 by 67 cm) rectangle. Then cut a pair of 6 1⁄2 by 10 in (17 by 25 cm) rectangles.

You should have 1 large and 2 smaller rectangles made of each of the 3 materials, or 9 total rectangles.



Baste the insulation to the outer fabric. Spread the outer fabric rectangles flat on your work surface. Spray a small of amount of fabric adhesive around the edges, corners, and center of the outer fabric, line up a corresponding piece of thermal batting over it, then press the fabric and batting together.

Repeat the steps to baste the other 2 sets of fabric and batting rectangles.

Look for spray adhesive online or at craft and fabric stores.

Spray basting is the easiest method of attaching the batting to the outer fabric. You could also hold them together by pinning them 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from the edges.



Pin 1 side panel of the outer material to the main section. Spread out the large rectangular section of basted outer material with the right side, or outer fabric, facing up. Then lay a smaller rectangle of basted outer material over the large rectangle with the right side down. Align the upper left edges of both rectangles, and pin together their left long edges.

Weave the pins into the fabric rectangles 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) from the edges.

Make sure the long and short sides of the rectangles are aligned. Position the rectangles so their short sides are at the top and bottom and the long sides are at the left and right.



Sew the pinned edges of the side and main panels. Stitch down the pinned sides of the panels 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the edges. Begin at the top corner and work your way down the long side. Stop 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) away from the bottom left corner of the side panel.

Use this 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) seam allowance, or the distance between the stitch line and the edge of the fabric, for all of this project’s stitches.



Pin the second side panel to the main body. Set the second panel over the main body with the outer fabric facing down. Align the upper right corners of the main panel and second side piece, and pin down their long sides on the right.



Stitch together the second side panel and main body. Sew along the pinned right edges of the main and side panels. Stop when you're 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) above the side panel's bottom right corner. The result should be a mirror image of the sewed left side panel.

Remember to use a seam allowance of 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm).



Pin the remaining edges to form a bag shape. Lift the left side panel up straight so it’s perpendicular to the main panel. Fold up the main panel to align its bottom left corner with the top right corner of the left side panel. Pin the panels together from the side panel’s top right corner to its bottom right corner.

Repeat the steps to line the right panel’s top left corner with the main panel’s bottom right corner.



Stitch along the pinned edges. Sew the left side panel to the main panel along the pinned edge. Stop 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the bottom edge of the side panel at its bottom right corner. Then sew the right side panel to the main panel along the pinned edges.

You should now have a rough bag shape with an open top and unstitched bottom. The long sides of both side panels should now be entirely stitched to the main panel.



Stitch around the bag’s base to flatten the bottom. Sew the bottoms of the side panels' short sides to the main panel. After sewing each short side, sew additional stitch lines down the bottom of the bag’s long sides to create a flat bottom.

All of the bag’s edges should now be stitched except for its top opening.



Repeat the process to create the waterproof lining. Lay a side panel of waterproof material over the large waterproof rectangle, and align their upper left corners. Stitch together the panels’ left sides, then stitch the right side of the other panel to the main body’s right side. Fold up the main body to bring its bottom corners to the side panels’ top corners, then stitch the edges to create a rough bag shape.

Finish by stitching around the bottom edges of the waterproof lining to flatten the bottom.



Slip the outer cover into the inner lining. Keep the inner lining right-side out, and turn the outer cover inside-out. Then slide the outer cover into the inner lining.

The two pieces should fit together snugly. Line up all 4 edges around the opening, and make sure the stitched edges of the side panels are aligned.



Sew around all 4 top edges. Pin or clip the top edges of the outer bag and liner. Stitch all around the top edge to attach the liner to the outer cover.

Again, use a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) seam allowance.

Overlap your beginning and ending stitches to help secure the thread.



Turn the cooler right-side out. With the outer and inner layers now attached, reach into the bag’s opening. Pull up the bottom, and flip all of the material right-side out.

The right side of the outer cover should now be visible from the outside. When you peek inside the cooler, you should be able to see the waterproof layer.



Add 1 more stitch line where the lining meets the outer fabric. Find the ditch, or the line where the waterproof liner meets the outer fabric. Stitch a line directly into the ditch all around the bag’s opening.

This last stitch will help stiffen the opening and hold the lining and outer fabric together.



Add Velcro or magnetic strips to close the bag. Use fabric adhesive or a hot glue gun to add Velcro, magnets, or snaps to the insides of the bag’s long edge. To close the bag, pinch the sides inward, then seal the Velcro, magnets, or snaps.

There you have it! Enjoy your new handmade insulated lunch bag!





Things You'll Need.

Insulated Lunch Bag.

1 yd (0.91 m) thermal batting.

1 yd (0.91 m) waterproof liner.

1 yd (0.91 m) outer fabric of your choice, such as canvas or denim.

Scissors or fabric shears.

Measuring stick.

Sewing machine.

Adhesive spray.

Thread.

Sewing pins.

Velcro, magnets, or snaps.

November 12, 2019

how to make a knights helmet

How to Make a Knight's Helmet

Making your own knight's helmet is simple and only requires a few materials. The base of your helmet will be made of poster board, but you can add any type of material onto the poster board that you'd like, such as foam or metallic paper. By cutting out a rectangle and teardrop shape before attaching the two together, you'll have created your basic helmet. After that, you can add details like plumes or visors to make your knight's helmet exactly how you'd like it.

Part 1 Creating the Basic Helmet.

1. Cut out a section of poster board that’s 10 by 28 in (25 by 71 cm) long. This will be the section of your helmet that wraps around your face and head. Lay the poster board flat on the table and use a ruler to mark a rectangle that’s 10 in (25 cm) wide and 28 in (71 cm) long. Use scissors to cut out this section of poster board.

Don't worry if the rectangle section is too long, you can trim it later on.

Purchase poster board from your local craft or big box store.

2. Apply paint to the poster board if you’re not adding additional layers. If your helmet is just going to be made of poster board, feel free to paint it a solid color like silver or gold. Use spray paint for a quick application, or use a paint brush and acrylic paints to paint the helmet section using even strokes.

Use two coats to ensure the poster board is fully covered.

Let the paint dry completely before continuing to work with the poster board. This should take 1-2 hours.

3. Fold the poster board in half crosswise. Fold the poster board horizontally instead of vertically so that it opens like a book. With the poster board folded in half, its new dimensions should be 10 in (25 cm) by 14 in (36 cm). Once the poster board has an even crease, unfold it and lay it flat again.

4. Attach additional material to the helmet if desired. If you’re putting foam or colored paper on your helmet to make it textured or colorful, use an adhesive like glue or tape to attach the material to the poster board. Make sure you don’t cover up the fold you just created, lining up the paper or foam with the fold before attaching it.

Flip the poster board over so that any excess foam or paper is visible, cutting it off using scissors so the poster board and additional materials are in line with each other.

5. Form the top of the helmet in the shape of a teardrop. The top of the helmet is made by drawing a circle slightly larger than your head onto a piece of poster board (and any other materials you’re using with the poster board). Once the circle is drawn, make a dot a few inches away from the circle, connecting it to the circle using a ruler so that the shape now resembles a teardrop.

You can find templates online for the top of the helmet to make creating it easier.

Consider creating a double layer of poster board to make the top sturdier.

Use a plate to help you draw a perfect circle, if desired.

6. Create a slit in the helmet for the eyes. Hold the rectangle section of the helmet up to your face with the fold at your nose, figuring out where the eyes would go. Measure a rectangle that’s roughly 5 in (13 cm) wide and 4 in (10 cm) high—this will be your eye slit. Use scissors or a precision blade to remove the eye portion from the large rectangle.

Make sure the center of your eye slit is lined up with the fold in the helmet.

7. Tape the sides of the helmet together so it’s whole. Join the two ends of the rectangle together, putting it on your head or the other person’s head to see where you’ll need to attach it. Use tape or a stapler to hold the two ends together.

To hide the tape, put it on the inside of the helmet.

Masking tape or duct tape works best.

8. Slide the top section into the helmet to attach it. Rest the sides of the helmet on the table so it’s sitting up straight. Slide the top section of the helmet into the sides, lining the tip of the teardrop shape with the fold in the rectangle. Push it down until the top of the helmet is touching the table. This will make it easy to hot glue or tape the two pieces together from the inside.

If the top section is too big to fit into the helmet’s sides, trim it using scissors.

If the top section is too small for the helmet's sides, you can either redo it and make it larger, or use a thick tape to attach it to the helmet's sides anyway.

Be careful if you’re using hot glue, making sure not to touch the metal tip of the glue gun.


Part 2 Adding Embellishments.

1. Create a visor for your helmet for a movable portion. Draw your visor in any shape you’d like, making sure it has slits wide enough for you to see out of. Make your visor at least 5 in (13 cm) long so it covers the entire eye slit already cut out in your helmet, and fasten it to your helmet using paper fasteners.

Look online for visor templates that you just print and cut out, if desired.

2. Add a feather to your helmet to create a plume. Choose a feather that’s long and large in any color you’d like. Create a hole in the top of your helmet, picking a spot near the edge of the helmet so that it doesn’t poke the person who’s wearing it in the head. Use a knife or sharp pen to form the hole before sticking the feather inside and gluing it in place.

Feel free to add more than one feather to the helmet, or glue or tape several feathers together to create a larger plume.

You can find feathers at your local craft or big box store.

3. Cut strips of craft foam to add detail along the edges of your helmet. Measure strips of craft foam to be roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) thick. Cut each strip out and use glue to attach the strips around the edges of the helmet. This makes the helmet look more official and detailed.

Use colored craft foam to give your helmet more personality, or paint your foam gold or silver to match your helmet.

4. Draw a coat of arms or another object on your helmet to personalize it. Use a marker to draw designs on your helmet or a symbol such as a coat of arms. Look online for inspiration for different coats of arms to draw and draw them in pencil first, if possible, in case you mess up and need to erase.

Use a black marker to add details to your helmet, or use lots of different colors to make your helmet stand out.

Pencil may not show up on foam, but you can always print out a template of something you'd like to draw and trace it using pen.

November 25, 2019