how to make dog yarn

How to Make Dog Yarn.

Dog fur has been used to make a soft and warm yarn, or Chiengora, throughout history. Much like other yarns, the process for making dog fur yarn involves harvesting the fibers, washing the fur, and spinning it into the yarn. Dogs with long fur undercoats are the best candidates for making dog yarn, and many groomers will donate their extra fur to you if you don’t have a dog of your own!

Part 1 Collecting Dog Fur.

1. Brush your dog in the spring, when they’re getting rid of their winter coat. Dogs tend to shed more during the springtime, which makes this a great time for harvesting fur. Use a brush or mitt along the dog’s back, sides, and soft, fluffy areas, and avoid areas like the legs and head. Discard any coarse hairs that you can see in the brush, since you won’t be using them.

Breeds like Samoyed, Siberian Husky, Malamute, Golden Retriever, Newfoundland, Collie, and Sheepdog are great for making dog yarn because they have fluffy undercoats with long fur.

2. Pull the fur out of the brush and place it in a cloth bag. Once you’ve picked out the coarse hairs, use your hand to carefully tug the fur out of the brush and transfer it to a bag. Leave the bag open to allow air circulation, preventing mold and mildew.

If you don’t have a cotton bag, you can use a pillowcase or even a cardboard box for collecting the fur.

Avoid using a plastic bag for collecting the fur since plastic can trap air and allow mold growth.

Don’t overfill the bag or push the fur down into the bag. Packing the fur too tightly can cause mold and mildew to form.

3. Make sure you have at least 4 oz (113 g) of fur. To make any type of yarn, you need a substantial amount of fur. After each collection, use a kitchen scale to weigh all of your yarn to see how much you have. If the fur is thin or short, you might need up to 12 oz (339 g) of fur to get the yarn started.

Keep your bags of fur in a place where your dog can’t get into them, since some dogs like to play with their own fur!

4. Add other types of fibers and fur to make a blended yarn. If you want to make yarn with a variety of textures, you can incorporate wool from a llama or alpaca, or you can harvest fur from different types of dogs. If you don’t have enough fur, or your pet’s fur is shorter than 2 inches (5.1 cm) long, you can use these different fibers to make a stronger, longer strand of yarn.

If your dog doesn’t produce a lot of fur, contact a groomer to see if you can use the excess fur from those dogs, or offer to brush a family member’s dog or a friend’s dog to gather additional fur.

The wool and fur might be a slightly different texture, but that’s okay. As long as you aren’t using coarse hair, the fibers can be blended together through a process called carding.

Part 2 Washing the Fur.

1. Mix warm water and soap in a large bowl. Drip 2-3 drops of gentle dish soap or pet shampoo into a bowl and turn on the warm water. Swish the water around with your hand to make sure it’s an even temperature, and scoop out any bubbles that raise over the top of the bowl.

Too many bubbles can make the fur difficult to rinse, but you do need soap to make the fur clean.

2. Submerge the fur in the water for 10 minutes. Gather the fur and push it down into the water until all of the fibers are completely immersed. Press down on the fur, but don’t tug or pull at it, as this can break the fibers of the fur. Leave the fur in the water to soak out the dirt and debris.

Try to keep the water at around the same temperature to prevent the fur from becoming matted, which is also called “felting.”

3. Remove the fur from the water and refill the bowl with warm water. Use your hand to scoop all of the fur out of the bowl and then dump out the water. Make the new water about the same temperature as the previous water, and make sure there are little to no bubbles in the water.

If there are bubbles in the water, dump the water down the drain and refill the bowl to rinse it.

4. Place the fur in the water and push it down to remove excess soap. Transfer the fur back into the bowl and push it down to squeeze out the soap and any additional debris. If the fur is very soapy, you may need to give it an extra rinse with fresh, warm water.

Avoid pulling or wringing the fur in the water, as this can break the fibers and cause the fur to become matted as it dries.

5. Spread the fur out in the sun to dry for 1-2 hours. Lay down a towel or a mesh screen and position the fur on top of it. Try to spread the fur out as much as possible without breaking it up into small pieces. If there’s wind, place a mesh screen or towel on top of the fur to hold it in place.

If it’s cloudy or rainy outside, leave the fur inside to dry in a well-ventilated area. It may take up to 4 hours for the fur to dry inside.

Part 3 Spinning the Yarn.

1. Card the fur using the same process that you would for wool. Using a pair of hand-carders, place the clean and dry fur in sections on one of the carders. Then, roll and pull the empty carder over the one with the fur in a downward motion 2-3 times to elongate the fur. Continue until the fur is soft and evenly blended,

If you’re blending another type of fiber with the fur, such as alpaca and wool, you can add it in this step by placing it on top of the dog fur in the carder before you begin blending. This will combine the fibers into longer pieces and make them easier to spin.

2. Remove the fur from the carder and roll it into a roll egg. Use your hands or a removal tool to reach underneath the fur on the carder and lift it off of the wires. Once all of the fur is completely off, place the blended fur on a flat surface and use your hands to roll the fur in one direction, forming a kind of tube or cylinder out of the fur.

This incorporates the fibers in different directions, making it easier to form yarn, especially when you’re using blended fibers from different sources, like wool and dog fur or different types of dog fur.

3. Use a drop spindle to easily make a long strand of yarn. Hook the end of your carded and rolled fur onto the end of the spindle and hold the fur in one of your hands. Then, spin the bottom of the spindle and draw the fibers out of the rolled ball of fur. This will create a long strand of yarn from the fur.

If your fibers are very short and you didn’t blend them with another type of fiber, you may find that they aren’t strong enough to hold the spindle up. In this case, you should try hand-spinning the fur to make your yarn.

4. Hand-spin the fur if you don’t have a spindle. Hold the fur in one of your hands, and pinch one end into a point. Then, using the opposite hand, begin twisting and slowly drawing the fur out of your hand. Keep twisting it to make it tight and dense until you have a long strand of yarn.

This method produces shorter, more dense strands of yarn that are good for hats and other small items.

5. Make cozy crafts out of your new dog fur yarn. Try your hand at knitting and crocheting with your new yarn. Dog yarn is soft and warm, and it easily repels water, so try making a hat or scarf with the yarn. You can even make a pair of socks or gloves to keep yourself warm!

If you have a lot of yarn from the fur, you can make a sweater or a blanket.

6. Store the yarn in a dry, well-ventilated area. Even when the yarn is made, the dog fur might still be susceptible to mold and mildew if it gets wet. When you aren’t using the bundles of yarn, keep them somewhere dry with good air circulation. If you have to put the yarn in a bag to store it, use a bag made of a breathable fabric, like cotton.

Try to keep the yarn out of reach of pets, since they may still be able to smell some of their own scent on the fibers and might want to play with the bundles of yarn!

Tips.

Avoid using clippings or overcoat hairs, which can be scratchy and uncomfortable to wear.

Warnings.

Keep in mind that some people are allergic to dogs and shouldn’t wear items that have been made from dog fur, even if it has been washed.

Things You'll Need.

Brush or mitt, Dog fur, Cotton bag, pillowcase, or box, Large bowl, Dish soap, Water, Towel or mesh screen.

Hand carders, Wool or alpaca (optional, for added length/strength), Drop spindle (optional).

Desember 12, 2019

how to make a ball

How to Make a Ball.

Balls provide endless entertainment for kids and adults alike, so make your own if you want a fun toy to play with this weekend. But there are balls for other occasions, too. If you’re having a rough week, for instance, create a stress ball to squeeze when you just want to scream. Or get creative and make balls out of things like rubber bands, fabric, and even cheese!

Method 1 Making a Bouncy Ball.

1. Combine school glue, cornstarch, and any add-ins in a bowl. Stir together the 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch until they’re thoroughly combined, using a spoon or wooden stick. If you want to add any extras, like food coloring or glitter, do so now.

You can use either white or clear school glue. If you use white glue and don’t add any coloring, your ball will be white.

Fun Add-Ins for Your Bouncy Ball

Sprinkle in glitter for a little extra sparkle.

Squeeze in a few drops of food coloring to make a ball in your favorite hue.

Stir glow in the dark paint into the glue for a ball that can be used at night.

Swirl 2 colors of food coloring together if you want a multi-colored masterpiece.

2. Stir warm water and Borax together in a separate bowl. Mix 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water and 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax until the Borax is completely dissolved. Stir vigorously to ensure there are no clumps of powder left in the bowl.

Heat the water in the microwave or on the stove until it’s warm to the touch. It shouldn’t be boiling.

You can find Borax in the laundry aisle of a store.

Borax is safe to use, but it's poisonous if ingested in large quantities. If you or your child get it in your eyes or mouth, contact poison control immediately.

3. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of the Borax mixture in the bowl with the glue. Do not stir the ingredients together when you add them. Simply pour the Borax and water into the other bowl containing the glue and cornstarch.

Set aside the remaining Borax mixture if you plan on making more balls.

4. Let the mixture sit for 15 seconds. This allows time for the Borax to react with the glue, making the polymers of the glue link together which will create the ball shape. If you start stirring right away, the bouncy ball may not form or harden properly.

Set a kitchen timer or use the clock app on your phone to keep track of the time.

5. Use a spoon to combine the ingredients until they’re too thick to stir. Within 1 to 2 minutes, the mixture will thicken. Stir vigorously while the mixture is still liquid to make sure the ingredients are blended well.

Choose a sturdy spoon, like a metal or thick plastic one. Something flimsy, like a plastic spoon, will likely break off in the goo.

If you’ve made homemade slime with Borax, this process is very similar.

6. Remove the mixture and roll it between your hands to form a ball. Once the mixture is too thick for your spoon or stick, pull it out of the bowl and place it between your palms. Roll it around by moving your hands in circular motions until the ball is no longer sticky.

The more you handle the ball, the more firm it will become.

If you’re having trouble getting rid of the stickiness, dip the ball in the Borax water, then roll it a little more. This should remove any tacky texture.

7. Let the ball harden for about 10 to 20 minutes before you use it. This dries the ball a little more, so that it’s extra bouncy. If the ball starts to flatten while it sits, simply roll it back into shape when you’re ready to play with it.

Once you’re done playing, store the ball in an airtight container to prevent it from drying out. Keep it in a cool, dark place, like the pantry.

If stored properly, your ball could last for up to 6 months. It won’t go bad, but it will dry out eventually.

To make more bouncy balls, mix up another batch of glue and cornstarch and use some of the leftover Borax and water mixture.

Things You'll Need.

2 tablespoons (30 ml) of warm water, 1⁄2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) of Borax, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of school glue, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of cornstarch.

Spoon or wooden stick, 2 cups or small bowls, Food coloring or other add-ins (optional), Airtight container (optional).

Method 2 Creating a Paper Soccer Ball.

1. Trace 20 hexagons on white paper, then cut them out. Draw your hexagons on the paper with a template, making each side the exact same length. Use scissors to carefully cut along the traced shapes, then set them aside.

If you want a life-sized soccer ball, make the edges 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.

To make a template, use a ruler to draw the hexagon shape on a piece of cardboard. Cut it out and trace around it with a pencil to make each paper hexagon.

Cardstock is the best type of paper to use for this craft. It’s sturdy enough to hold the shape of the ball yet still easy to fold.

2. Trace and cut out 12 black pentagons with sides the same length. The edges of the black and white pieces need to be equal so that they fit together properly. Use a template to draw your pentagon shapes, then cut them out with scissors.

For example, if you’re creating a life-sized ball, make your pentagon sides 2 inches (5.1 cm) long.

You can use a different color paper instead of black, or get creative and make a multi-colored ball with a variety of shades.

Cut a pentagon template out of cardboard to trace on the black paper so that the pieces are all equal size.

3. Fold up a thin border around each hexagon and pentagon. This edge will allow you to build your ball seamlessly, so there are no gaps between pieces. You only want to fold enough of each edge to have a place to apply glue or tape. Keep the border size equal on each piece so they all remain the same size after folding.

To fold the same border on each piece, trace the border before you fold, using a ruler to ensure each edge is an equal width.

Use a straight edge, like a ruler, to help you fold the edges in a perfect line.

If the edges are crooked, re-fold them. They have to be straight for your ball to be the right shape.

To make folding easier, snip off the corners of your border before you fold. This allows you to fold the edges up without dealing with corners that crumple up or stick out.

4. Apply glue or tape to the folded edges of each piece. This is how you’ll stick the the pieces together to form the ball. Swipe glue on each of the edges of all the hexagons and pentagons. You can also use a strip of tape on the edges instead.

A glue stick will work better than liquid glue to prevent the paper edges from getting soggy.

If you are slow at putting the ball together, you may want to apply the glue as you go, rather than all at once. Otherwise, it will dry out on the final pieces by the time you get to them.

5. Attach 5 white hexagons to 1 black pentagon. On a standard soccer ball, each black piece is completely surrounded by white pieces. Press 1 white hexagon onto each edge of a black pentagon. Hold the edges together until the glue dries.

If you’re using a glue stick, the glue will dry almost instantly. Wait about 5 to 10 seconds while pressing the edges against one another.

6. Continue gluing the pieces together in this pattern, forming the soccer ball. On the other edges of the white hexagons that you attached to the original pentagon, glue more black pentagons. Don’t forget to glue the white edges that touch each other, too. Once you connect all of the pieces, you’ll have a ball shape.

A black piece should never touch another black piece. However, white edges will touch other white edges.

If you’re having trouble visualizing the pattern, look up an image of a soccer ball online as a guide.

You can stuff the ball with shreds of paper if you want to create a fuller shape.

Things You'll Need.

Black and white sheets of paper, Scissors, Cardboard.

Pencil or pen, Glue stick or tape, Homemade Stress Ball, 12 in (30 cm) latex balloon.

Method 3 Using Play Dough for a Homemade Stress Ball.

1. Use your hands to roll play dough into a long shape. Place a pile of play dough on a flat surface, then gently roll it out with the palms of your hands. This should form what looks like a snake.

It doesn’t matter what color play dough you use, since it will just be going inside the balloon.

Buy pre-made play dough or make your own at home.

If you buy play dough, use one 5 oz (140 g) container per balloon.

2. Insert the play dough into the balloon. Stretch the neck of the balloon open as wide as you can, then stuff the play dough snake into the balloon. The play dough should fill the balloon just to the base of the neck.

If there is a lot of empty space in the balloon, add more play dough.

Stretch out the neck of the balloon before you insert the play dough to loosen it up.

This step is easier if you have someone else hold the balloon open while you put the play dough inside.

3. Tie a knot in the neck at the top of the balloon to secure it. This will keep all of the play dough inside the balloon. Wrap the neck around your finger to make your knot, tying it as tightly as possible.

If you want extra protection, you can place your original balloon inside another empty balloon before tying it shut. This adds a double layer in case you poke a hole.

You can decorate your stress balls with permanent markers if you’d like. For example, you could draw a funny face or write a calming phrase, like “just breathe.”

Things You'll Need.

Permanent marker (optional).

Method 4 Forming Other Types of Balls.

1. Build a rubber band ball for a creative way to store supplies. Instead of tossing your rubber bands in a drawer, keep them together in 1 big ball. Fold up a thick rubber band to form the center, then begin wrapping all of other bands around it. Criss-cross directions often to round out the ball.

You can also wrap your bands around a bouncy ball or crumpled-up piece of paper for a larger ball.

Start with smaller rubber bands, then add the larger ones as the ball gets bigger.

2. Sew a fabric ball if you want a soft toy for kids or pets. Young children, particularly babies, could get injured by hard rubber balls. Instead, stitch together a ball out of strips of fabric, then stuff it with polyfill for a plush feel or use dried beans for a bean bag texture.

This also makes a great pet toy for dogs to chew on or for cats to bat around. If the ball is for a pet, pick a durable fabric like vinyl or nylon and keep your pet in sight as it plays with the ball.

You can use a sewing machine to make your ball or sew it by hand.

Cotton is ideal for kids’ toys since it’s a long-lasting and soft fabric that’s easy to wash.

3. Use ice to make a ball for a unique cocktail add-in. Not only do ice spheres look much cooler than regular cubes floating in your drink, they also melt slower, so your beverage doesn't get watered-down as quickly. Fill a silicone ice ball mold with water, then place it in the freezer for at least 6 hours, or until the balls have set and hardened.

For extra flair and flavor, add things like fresh herbs or edible flowers into the water in the mold before it freezes.

You can buy ice ball molds from a kitchen store or online retailer.

4. Make a cheese ball if you’re having people over for dinner or a party. When it’s your turn to play host or hostess, whip up a cheese ball as an impressive appetizer. Mix together cream cheese and other soft cheeses, shape it into a ball, then chill it in the refrigerator. Roll it in chopped nuts and other garnishes before serving.

You can substitute mascarpone, neufchatel, or goat cheese for the cream cheese if you’d like.

Pair any type of softer cheese with the creamy base, depending on your taste preferences. As long as it’s not a dry, crumbly cheese like parmesan, it will work.

Serve a cheese ball with finger foods for dipping, like crackers, pretzels, or raw veggies.

Warnings.

Borax is poisonous. Get help immediately if you accidentally ingest it or get it in your eyes.

Never let young children handle Borax without close supervision.

Januari 20, 2020

how to easy make graphene

How to Easy Make Graphene.

Graphene is the wonder material of the century. Considering its relative strength compared to its weight, it is harder than steel and diamonds and also the best conductor of heat and electricity. And it's only 1 atom thick! You can make your own graphene at home, but be aware that it is more on the experimental level—you won’t be able to produce quantities large enough to do anything with. If during your experiment you find a cost-effective way to mass-produce the graphene, you could become rich and famous!









Using the Sticky Tape Method.



Deposit a thick layer of graphite onto a piece of paper with a lead pencil. Start out by drawing just a small polka dot or a 1 centimetre (0.39 in) line to get a feeling for the process. Go over the shape 2 or 3 times to get a nice, thick layer.

Alternatively, you can purchase powdered graphite at your local department or home improvement store for about $10.00 for 6 ounces (170 g). Use tweezers to place a small amount of the powder onto the piece of paper. A pinch would be too much.



Cut a 2 inch (5.1 cm) piece of tape and place it on the graphite. Position the tape over the graphite so that the graphite will be about three-quarters of the way down the tape. Press the tape down on the graphite and then gently peel it off of the piece of paper.



Fold the piece of tape in half and then peel it apart. Grasp the tape on the edges and only fold it enough to cover the graphite. If you fold it completely in half, it will be difficult to open it up and pull it apart again. Here, you are splitting the layers of graphite and separating the carbon atoms—which is necessary to get graphene.

Alternatively, you may place a fresh piece of tape on top of the original piece and then peel it off.



Repeat the process of folding and peeling about 20 times. Each time you peel the tape off, the graphite layers get thinner and thinner. After about 20 times of peeling, you should end up with a layer of graphite that is only 1 atom thick. This is graphene.

If you are using fresh pieces of tape, rather than folding, place the third piece of tape on top of the second piece; the fourth piece of tape on top of the third, and so on.



Use a microscope to tell how many layers of graphite you have. Place the piece of tape, sticky side down, on a microscope slide. View the slide between 100x and 400x magnification. If you used the same piece of tape folded on top of itself multiple times, you will notice that some spots will be darker and some will be lighter. The lighter spots are the thinnest layers and the lightest spot is the graphene.

If you used fresh pieces of tape to peel layers each time, use your final piece of tape (about the 20th piece) to place under the microscope.







Using a Kitchen Blender.



Put 20–50 grams (0.71–1.76 oz) of graphite powder into a kitchen blender. If you don’t have graphite powder, you can make some by pulverizing a few pencil leads in a pulverizer or grinder. Use a high-power kitchen blender of at least 400 watts to get the best results.

Be aware that you can no longer use this blender to make food or drinks after using it with graphite.



Pour 10–25 millilitres (0.34–0.85  fl oz) of liquid dish soap into the blender. The detergent acts as a surfactant which works to suspend the graphene particles in the mixture. It also prevents the particles from clumping together. The brand of dish soap you use doesn’t matter, however, the amount you add to the mixture does.

The exact amount of dish soap that’s needed depends on the properties of the graphite powder and whether there are any other contaminants in the sample. Unfortunately, these factors cannot be known without the use of advanced lab equipment.

Experiment with adding amounts within the 10–25 millilitres (0.34–0.85  fl oz) range to start, and then do additional experiments by adding either more or less soap.



Add .5 litres (17  fl oz) of water and blend on high for 10-30 minutes. As the graphite is blended, it will create a black liquid that may be frothy. Eventually you will begin to notice tiny flakes forming on the surface of the liquid and on the side of the blender.

Without lab equipment, it is difficult to distinguish between actual flakes of graphene and small flakes of graphite. In general, if the graphene particles are too big (still graphite), they will sink to the bottom of the blender; if they are smaller, they will float to the top. Particles that are suspended mid-water are nanoparticles, and are definitely graphene.



Pour the mixture into a glass jar and allow it to sit for 2-3 days. In a lab, they centrifuge the mixture to separate the graphene from the liquid. Since it is unlikely that you have access to a centrifuge, simply pour the liquid mixture into a glass jar and let it sit for a few days.

This resting period will allow the graphene to separate from the larger particles of graphite.





Things You’ll Need.

Lead pencil.

Powdered graphite.

Tape.

Kitchen blender.

Dishwashing liquid.

Tips.

Since making graphene at home is largely experimental, the exact measurements for creating it in a blender is unknown. The measurements listed here are based off of one group of researcher’s findings.

Making graphene at home is mostly just a proof-of-concept. It is unlikely that you will be able to make enough high-quality graphene to be of any productive use. But it’s a fun experiment!

November 17, 2019

how to crochet a small red nosed reindeer

How to Crochet a Small Red Nosed Reindeer.

A gorgeous little red-nosed reindeer to crochet for the festive season. This is an original creation by Brenda SoLis.

Note: everything is done in a continuous spiral; use a stitch marker to mark your place.

Steps.

1. Crochet the head. With tan yarn Ch2.

Row 1: 6 sc in second ch,

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12sc)

Row 3: work *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* (18sc)

Row 4-5-6: sc around (18sc)

Row 7: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* 3times, 1 sc in last st. (21sc)

Row 8-9-10: sc around (21sc)

Row 11: *2sctog, 1sc* around (14sc)

Row 12: *2sctog, 1sc* around (9sc)

Row 13: sc around (9sc)

Row 14: *2sctog* slst on last sc. F.O.

2. Crochet the body. With tan yarn Ch2.

Row 1: 6 sc in second ch,

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12sc)

Row 3: work *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* (18sc)

Row 4-8: sc around (18sc)

Row 9: *2sctog, 1sc in next sc* F.O. (12sc)

3. Crochet the arms and legs. Make 4 with white yarn.

Row 1: ch 2, 3 sc in second ch (3sc)

Row 2-3: sc around (3sc) F.O. Leave long tail for sewing to body

4. Crochet the nose. With red yarn.

Row 1: Ch2, 3sc in second ch (3sc)

Row 2: sc around F.O. Leave long tail for sewing to head

5. Crochet the antlers. Make 2 with white yarn.

Ch5

Slst in first ch, Ch2 slst in 2nd ch, slst in first ch again and on remaining 3ch.

F.O.

Leave long tail for sewing to head, weave in ends.

6. Crochet the ears. Make 2 with tan yarn.

Row 1: start with a long tail for sewing ch 3, sc in second ch and in next ch, ch 1 turn (2sc)

Row 2: 2 sc in next 2 sc, ch 1 turn (4sc)

Row 3: sc across, ch 1 turn

Row 4: *2sctog* (2sc) F.O. weave in ends

7. Finish the reindeer.

Stuff the head and body. make sure the head does not lose its shape.

Pin head to body and sew together.

Sew on arms and legs to body (don’t stuff them).

Sew on the ears and antlers to head.

Sew on the nose.

Glue on the wiggly eyes between rows 6 and 7.





Tips Abbreviations.

Sc = single crochet, Ch = chain, 2sctog = single crochet decrease over two stitches, st = stitches, sl st = slip stitch.

Warnings.

If you have children under 3 years old, it is recommended to embroider the eyes with black thread instead of gluing the wiggly eyes on.

Things You'll Need : G crochet hook, Worsted weight yarn in tan, white, red.

Tapestry needle, Fiberfill stuffing, Felt for eyes, Stitch marker, Pins.

Desember 08, 2019