how to make a paper penguin using an origami penguin

How to Make a Paper Penguin Using an Origami Penguin.

Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!

Steps.

1. Purchase origami paper. This method calls for just a single sheet of 6” x 6” origami paper. If you want a larger penguin, then you can easily go for 12” x 12” paper, but you'll have to multiply any directions containing measurements by two. If you want an even better looking penguin, buy paper that is white on one side and black on the other.

2. Fold diagonal creases along the middle. To start, you want to place the sheet of origami paper flat (with the white side facing up if you have paper with a black side as well). Then fold the paper in half diagonally so the bottom left corner is flush with the top right corner and make a crease. Unfold the paper and do the same with the opposite corners, and then unfold the page again.

When you unfold the sheet again, you will have creases forming a large X across the page.

3. Fold the lower left corner to the center. With the page flat again and the large creases making an X, you will then take the lower left corner of the paper and fold it so that the tip of the corner touches the center of the page. In other words, the corner edge will touch the center of the X made by the earlier creases. Flatten the folded portion and make another crease, then open the sheet so it's flat again.

4. Fold the upper right corner to the crease you just made. You will now have the large X crease as well as a smaller diagonal crease in the lower left of the page. Take the top right corner of the page and fold it over so that it touches the lower left crease. Then open the page once more.

5. Turn the page over. For the next set of folds, you'll need to turn the page over. If you have two-colored paper, this means that the black side will now faces up. When you turn the paper over, orient it diagonally so that the current lower left corner now points up.

6. Fold the left corner to the right corner. With the paper in the new orientation, take the corner pointing left and fold the paper in half so that it's flush with the corner pointing right. There will already be a crease here from when you made this fold on the other side of the sheet, but you'll need to crease it in the opposite direction when you fold it over.

7. Fold the bottom corner over to the right. From the last step, the sheet will now look like a triangle with the side on the left forming a vertical line. Take the corner of the triangle that points down and fold it across at a 45° angle. Fold it so that the horizontal edge made at the top of the fold touches the lower crease already on this part of the page—not the middle crease but the one below it. Once you've made the crease from this fold, turn the flap back over so that you have the same triangle shape you started with.

8. Reverse-fold the corner along the crease you just made. A reverse fold is a bit more three-dimensional than the other folds you've made so far. In order to make the reverse fold, take the crease you just made and crease it in the opposite direction, but make the crease by folding and tucking the corner into the paper.

9. Fold the top half over. With the reverse fold out of the way, you want to take the corner pointing right—just the top layer not both layers—and fold it back on itself. Fold it so that the flat side just above the corner lines up flush with the flat vertical line on the left side of the paper. Make a crease here, but do not unfold the flap. Leave it folded.

10. Turn the page over and make the same fold on the other side. You now want to turn the paper over completely and make the same fold you just made but from the other side. In other words, fold the other corner (the bottom layer from the previous step) over so that its upper edge is also flush with the same flat side of the page.

Especially if you're using a two-colored sheet of paper, this step will make more sense because the form of the penguin will start to become more apparent as the black side of the page will face outward on both sides. As the project continues to take shape, these will be the wings.

11. Turn the paper over again. To prepare for the next major fold, you will need to turn the whole paper over again. When you do, you want to orient the paper so that the really narrow point is pointing upward.

12. Fold the narrow point over to the left. With the paper oriented so that the long, narrow point face up, take that point and fold it over at a 45° angle so that the point now points to the left. You'll see how this fold starts to take shape as the penguin's beak. After making the crease in this fold, return the point to the upward position.

13. Reverse-fold along the crease you just made. This step requires you to make an outside reverse fold along the crease you made in the last step. An outside reverse fold is slightly different from the earlier reverse fold. To make the fold, unfold the paper along the black side slightly, and poke your finger from the white side at the fold you made in the last step. When the creases reverse direction, simply reform the fold so that the two black sides of the sheet are in contact again.

Once again, reverse folds can be a bit difficult to describe.

14. Fold the wing over. Though clearly visible now, the wings won't quite look perfect yet. Take the wing on the side facing up and fold it over so that the white side faces out. You'll fold it back so that the corner which was facing the bottom left now points to the right. Pull it back far enough so that it's just shy of where the little tail is at the bottom of the paper.[

15. Fold the wing back over on itself. Once you've made the crease from the previous step, fold the wing back over on itself so that the black side is once again facing up. Fold it so that the tip of the corner is just shy of touching the horizontal white edge at the bottom of the body.

16. Makes a rabbit's ear fold. To make the rabbit's ear fold, lift the portion of the wing you just folder and reverse the crease from the last step, but only at the bottom of the crease and only at the depth of roughly the tip of your finger. This will makes the bottom tip of the wing into a little flap though the flat edge will still be parallel to the rest of the wing.

17. Repeat steps 14-16 for the other wing. With one wing complete, you're ready to turn the page over and repeat the same steps to form the other wing. Simply use the same folds from steps 14-16 but on the other side.

18. Tuck in the points at the bottom. The bottom of the penguin will still have points sticking out in a slightly misshapen way. Fold each of these points toward the inside of the penguin to make a flat, horizontal bottom to the body. Once you tuck these flaps up, you have your penguin!

Desember 22, 2019

how to make dog yarn

How to Make Dog Yarn.

Dog fur has been used to make a soft and warm yarn, or Chiengora, throughout history. Much like other yarns, the process for making dog fur yarn involves harvesting the fibers, washing the fur, and spinning it into the yarn. Dogs with long fur undercoats are the best candidates for making dog yarn, and many groomers will donate their extra fur to you if you don’t have a dog of your own!

Part 1 Collecting Dog Fur.

1. Brush your dog in the spring, when they’re getting rid of their winter coat. Dogs tend to shed more during the springtime, which makes this a great time for harvesting fur. Use a brush or mitt along the dog’s back, sides, and soft, fluffy areas, and avoid areas like the legs and head. Discard any coarse hairs that you can see in the brush, since you won’t be using them.

Breeds like Samoyed, Siberian Husky, Malamute, Golden Retriever, Newfoundland, Collie, and Sheepdog are great for making dog yarn because they have fluffy undercoats with long fur.

2. Pull the fur out of the brush and place it in a cloth bag. Once you’ve picked out the coarse hairs, use your hand to carefully tug the fur out of the brush and transfer it to a bag. Leave the bag open to allow air circulation, preventing mold and mildew.

If you don’t have a cotton bag, you can use a pillowcase or even a cardboard box for collecting the fur.

Avoid using a plastic bag for collecting the fur since plastic can trap air and allow mold growth.

Don’t overfill the bag or push the fur down into the bag. Packing the fur too tightly can cause mold and mildew to form.

3. Make sure you have at least 4 oz (113 g) of fur. To make any type of yarn, you need a substantial amount of fur. After each collection, use a kitchen scale to weigh all of your yarn to see how much you have. If the fur is thin or short, you might need up to 12 oz (339 g) of fur to get the yarn started.

Keep your bags of fur in a place where your dog can’t get into them, since some dogs like to play with their own fur!

4. Add other types of fibers and fur to make a blended yarn. If you want to make yarn with a variety of textures, you can incorporate wool from a llama or alpaca, or you can harvest fur from different types of dogs. If you don’t have enough fur, or your pet’s fur is shorter than 2 inches (5.1 cm) long, you can use these different fibers to make a stronger, longer strand of yarn.

If your dog doesn’t produce a lot of fur, contact a groomer to see if you can use the excess fur from those dogs, or offer to brush a family member’s dog or a friend’s dog to gather additional fur.

The wool and fur might be a slightly different texture, but that’s okay. As long as you aren’t using coarse hair, the fibers can be blended together through a process called carding.

Part 2 Washing the Fur.

1. Mix warm water and soap in a large bowl. Drip 2-3 drops of gentle dish soap or pet shampoo into a bowl and turn on the warm water. Swish the water around with your hand to make sure it’s an even temperature, and scoop out any bubbles that raise over the top of the bowl.

Too many bubbles can make the fur difficult to rinse, but you do need soap to make the fur clean.

2. Submerge the fur in the water for 10 minutes. Gather the fur and push it down into the water until all of the fibers are completely immersed. Press down on the fur, but don’t tug or pull at it, as this can break the fibers of the fur. Leave the fur in the water to soak out the dirt and debris.

Try to keep the water at around the same temperature to prevent the fur from becoming matted, which is also called “felting.”

3. Remove the fur from the water and refill the bowl with warm water. Use your hand to scoop all of the fur out of the bowl and then dump out the water. Make the new water about the same temperature as the previous water, and make sure there are little to no bubbles in the water.

If there are bubbles in the water, dump the water down the drain and refill the bowl to rinse it.

4. Place the fur in the water and push it down to remove excess soap. Transfer the fur back into the bowl and push it down to squeeze out the soap and any additional debris. If the fur is very soapy, you may need to give it an extra rinse with fresh, warm water.

Avoid pulling or wringing the fur in the water, as this can break the fibers and cause the fur to become matted as it dries.

5. Spread the fur out in the sun to dry for 1-2 hours. Lay down a towel or a mesh screen and position the fur on top of it. Try to spread the fur out as much as possible without breaking it up into small pieces. If there’s wind, place a mesh screen or towel on top of the fur to hold it in place.

If it’s cloudy or rainy outside, leave the fur inside to dry in a well-ventilated area. It may take up to 4 hours for the fur to dry inside.

Part 3 Spinning the Yarn.

1. Card the fur using the same process that you would for wool. Using a pair of hand-carders, place the clean and dry fur in sections on one of the carders. Then, roll and pull the empty carder over the one with the fur in a downward motion 2-3 times to elongate the fur. Continue until the fur is soft and evenly blended,

If you’re blending another type of fiber with the fur, such as alpaca and wool, you can add it in this step by placing it on top of the dog fur in the carder before you begin blending. This will combine the fibers into longer pieces and make them easier to spin.

2. Remove the fur from the carder and roll it into a roll egg. Use your hands or a removal tool to reach underneath the fur on the carder and lift it off of the wires. Once all of the fur is completely off, place the blended fur on a flat surface and use your hands to roll the fur in one direction, forming a kind of tube or cylinder out of the fur.

This incorporates the fibers in different directions, making it easier to form yarn, especially when you’re using blended fibers from different sources, like wool and dog fur or different types of dog fur.

3. Use a drop spindle to easily make a long strand of yarn. Hook the end of your carded and rolled fur onto the end of the spindle and hold the fur in one of your hands. Then, spin the bottom of the spindle and draw the fibers out of the rolled ball of fur. This will create a long strand of yarn from the fur.

If your fibers are very short and you didn’t blend them with another type of fiber, you may find that they aren’t strong enough to hold the spindle up. In this case, you should try hand-spinning the fur to make your yarn.

4. Hand-spin the fur if you don’t have a spindle. Hold the fur in one of your hands, and pinch one end into a point. Then, using the opposite hand, begin twisting and slowly drawing the fur out of your hand. Keep twisting it to make it tight and dense until you have a long strand of yarn.

This method produces shorter, more dense strands of yarn that are good for hats and other small items.

5. Make cozy crafts out of your new dog fur yarn. Try your hand at knitting and crocheting with your new yarn. Dog yarn is soft and warm, and it easily repels water, so try making a hat or scarf with the yarn. You can even make a pair of socks or gloves to keep yourself warm!

If you have a lot of yarn from the fur, you can make a sweater or a blanket.

6. Store the yarn in a dry, well-ventilated area. Even when the yarn is made, the dog fur might still be susceptible to mold and mildew if it gets wet. When you aren’t using the bundles of yarn, keep them somewhere dry with good air circulation. If you have to put the yarn in a bag to store it, use a bag made of a breathable fabric, like cotton.

Try to keep the yarn out of reach of pets, since they may still be able to smell some of their own scent on the fibers and might want to play with the bundles of yarn!

Tips.

Avoid using clippings or overcoat hairs, which can be scratchy and uncomfortable to wear.

Warnings.

Keep in mind that some people are allergic to dogs and shouldn’t wear items that have been made from dog fur, even if it has been washed.

Things You'll Need.

Brush or mitt, Dog fur, Cotton bag, pillowcase, or box, Large bowl, Dish soap, Water, Towel or mesh screen.

Hand carders, Wool or alpaca (optional, for added length/strength), Drop spindle (optional).

Desember 12, 2019

how to make furry cat ears

How to Make Furry Cat Ears.

Cat ears are cute accessories that can be easily made. You can wear them with a costume, or as a fun accessory with an outfit. All of the materials needed to make the cat ears can be found at most arts and crafts stores. To make furry cat ears, create the ear bases, put the ears together, and complete the cat ears with the help of an elastic band and hot glue.



Part 1 Creating the Cat Ear Base.

1. Draw the cat ears on paper. This will be the template for the wire. Basically, you just need to draw two wide triangles. You might like to try drawing a few different sizes to see which size looks best on your head. You can cut out the template, or leave the cat ears drawn on the paper. Keep this design as your template for the remaining steps.

Keep in mind that the template will be slightly smaller than the finished ears because of the fur. A template of about three inches is a good size to use.

It doesn’t matter what you use to draw the ears, but pencil is good to use if you will be redrawing the ears multiple times.

2. Create the cat ears with jewelry wire. Following the paper template, bend the wire into the shape of the cat ears. Jewelry wire should be fairly easy to bend, but you can use a pair of long nose pliers to help form the shape. Do this for both ears and you should end up with two triangle shaped ears.

If you don't have wire, you can use paperclips. Just straighten them out and use them as wire. Don't worry if they don't make a perfect triangle. It won't matter when you put them in the fur. Use glue to bind the sides until you put them in.

Use a jewelry wire that is thicker so that it won’t fall out of shape when fur is added to them. 16 or 18 gauge is a good choice because it is thick, but can be bent without too much effort by using pliers.

3. Cut out the fake fur. Following the paper templates again, cut out four triangle shapes in fur. You can use any type of fur that appeals to you, like black, leopard print, or lion-like fur. Fur can be purchased at an arts and crafts store. These should be about a half an inch larger than the template, though, as the fur needs to hold the wire triangles inside once stitched up.

Remember that you can always make it smaller if it's too big, but you can't make it bigger if it's too small.



Part 2 Putting Together the Ears.

1. Sew the fur together. Place two fur pieces together. The fur sides should be facing each other. Sew each side, but leave the bottom edge unsewn. That is the part you are going to insert the wire through to shape the ears. The finished product should be inside out. Repeat this step until you have two ears.

There should be very little seam allowance—only about an ¼ of a inch.

Use a color of thread that best matches the color of fur.

2. Flip the ears so that you can see the fur. The ears should be inside out with the fur parts facing each other once you have finished sewing. Now, turn the ears so that the fur is on the outside. The ear shape should be really obvious now. Inspect the ears to make sure that there aren’t any holes or mistakes.

Turn the ears inside out and sew up any holes that you find.

Use a pair of sewing scissors to cut the thread where any mistakes have been made. Remove the thread from that part and sew it back up with new thread.

3. Place the wire triangle pieces inside each ear. Insert the wire you shaped into triangles earlier into the furry ears. The wire should be able to fit snugly inside of the fur without too much or too little room. Adjust the wire if necessary.

4. Sew up the bottom of the ears. Once you have inserted the wires into the furry ears, sew up the bottom portion that is still open. There shouldn’t be any opening on the ears when you have finished sewing. It doesn't matter if this sewing line is messy, as nobody is going to see it.



Part 3 Completing the Furry Cat Ears.

1. Create the band for the ears. Measure the elastic band or ribbon around your head. The ribbon should cross over the top of your head rather than your forehead. You can find a band or ribbon at most arts and crafts stores. Sew or hot glue the ends together to form a circular headband that fits your head. If you’re using a ribbon, you can also choose to tie the ribbon in the back so that it is adjustable.

If sewing, include a seam allowance in your measurements before cutting the ribbon. Tie the ribbon when testing it on your head to see how much ribbon will be needed in total.

You can also choose to use a headband instead of an elastic band or ribbon.

2. Mark the placement for the ears. First, hold the band and ears together to see where the ears look most natural. Then, check in the mirror to see where the ears look best. Making marks on the headband while it is on your head, use a pen or marker to make marks where the ears will be covering.

It may be easier to have someone help you make the marks while the band is on your head.

3. Attach the ears to the headband. Use hot glue to attach the cat ears onto the headband in the positions that you marked. Use just enough so that the ears stay up, but don’t use so much that the glue gets on other places on the headband or ribbon. Allow at least ten minutes for the glue to dry.

Have someone help you with the hot glue if you aren’t comfortable with using it on your own.

4. Check the finished product. Once the glue has dried, try on the ears. The band should fit your head without sliding. The ears should be standing straight up. Make any adjustments as needed.



Question : What if I don't have any wire, or my parents won't let me use any?

 Answer : Depending on the size of your cat ears and the thickness of the fur, you might not even need any wire to make them stand up; the wire is there for support. If the ears still flop over after you have made them, try filling them with some cardboard or craft foam instead.

 Question : Is there any alternative to the fur if I don't have a lot of money and can't buy felt or fur and don't have a cat?

 Answer : If you own any old stuffed animals that you don't care for anymore, you can use the fluff from those.

 Question : Can I use white fur?

Answer : Absolutely.

Question : What do I do if I don't know how to sew?

Answer : You can always ask a friend or family member. If you're feeling ambitious, you can learn how to sew yourself.

Question : Can I use real cat hair?

 Answer : Yes, if you want, but it may be best to pick the cat's fur off of the cat brush, not the cat itself.

Question : How can I make fake fur?

 Answer : You can make the fur by tearing felt to make fluffy strips. Then, get the same color felt, and glue or sew the fluffy stripes onto it and then cut out the triangle shape for the ears.

Question : How can I make wolf ears the same way?

 Answer : Make the shape a bit taller and more pointy. Look at pictures of wolves for reference on how their ears are shaped and then just change the shape.

Question : Could I put pink felt in the center for the finished ear?

 Answer : Yes. Just sew or glue it on with a color similar to the color of the felt.

Question : Where can I get fake fur?

 Answer : A craft store or someplace that sells fabric. Or you could remove some from a stuffed animal.

Question : Can I make non-fluffy ears?

 Answer : Yes, but you may need to expand on your ideas, especially if you are looking to cosplay with them. You could use polymer clay.



Tips.

Fake or fun fur makes a mess when cut. Have something ready to sweep or vacuum it up.

Warnings.

Use care when handling hot glue, as it can easily burn.

Things You'll Need.

Paper for template.

Scissors.

Thin wire for the ears.

Fake fur (20 cm sq. or 7.9 inches.).

Elastic ribbon (5-6 cm or about 1 or 2 inches wide) Make sure you have enough to fit around your head and extra ribbon left for tying.

Hot glue.

Needle.

Thread.

Paper.

Marking tool.

Scissors.

Februari 12, 2020

how to make a polymer clay penguin

How to Make a Polymer Clay Penguin.

There's no denying that penguins are among the cutest critters to populate this planet. Unfortunately, having a real one might be out of the question for most people. Luckily, it is possible to make a miniature penguin out of polymer clay. You can even insert a small eyehook or eye pin to turn it into a charm so that you can take it wherever you go!

Method 1 Making a Basic Penguin.

1. Make the body of the penguin. Knead some black clay until it turns soft. Roll it into an oval, about twice the height of your thumbnail. Flatten one of the oval's pointy ends against your work surface until it can stand on its own.

2. Make the head of the penguin. Roll some black clay into a small ball, about the same size as your thumbnail, or half the height of the body.

3. Attach the head to the body. Gently press the head on top of the penguin's body. Don't worry if the head squishes a little. If you'd like, you can use a clay sculpting tool to smooth the seam between the head and the body.

4. Roll some white clay out into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first, then knead some white clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin or tube. You can find acrylic rolling pins in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find any acrylic rolling pins, you can use a regular rolling pin, a fat marker, or any other smooth cylinder.

5. Cut an oval and a heart out of the white clay. The oval will make the belly and the heart will make the face. Both need to be a little smaller than the body and head respectively. You can use mini polymer clay cutters for this; they look like miniature cookie cutters. You can also cut the shapes freehand with a craft blade instead.

6. Stick the white shapes onto the body and head. Gently press the white heart onto the head, and the white oval onto the body. Make sure that the bottom of the heart and the top of the oval go into the crease between the head and body.

7. Roll some black clay into a thick sheet. Clean your hands again, and knead some more black clay until it turns soft. Roll the clay into a thick, black sheet. Plan on making it twice as thick as the white sheet. This will eventually make the wings.

8. Cut two wings out of the sheet. Start by cutting an oval out of the clay, a little bit shorter than the body. Cut the oval in half, lengthwise, so that you end up with two semi-ovals. You can use a craft blade to do this.

9. Add the wings onto the penguin's body. Gently press the wings down onto the body to either side of the white belly. The flat edges of the wings should be facing the white belly. The tips of the wings should be nestled into the crease between the head and the body.

Don't worry if the wings overlap the white belly a little.

Consider flipping the bottom of the wings outwards for a cute touch.

10. Make a beak. Clean your hands, and knead some orange clay. Roll the clay into a tiny teardrop or cone.

11. Attach the beak. Press the bottom of the teardrop/cone into the middle of the penguin's face.[4] Use a craft blade to cut the beak open after you attach it, if desired. This will give your penguin an open mouth instead of a closed one.

12. Make the feet. Roll a small ball out of orange clay. Cut the ball in half using a craft blade. Cut two notches into each dome to make the feet.

13. Attach the feet. Turn the penguin upside down. Pinch the back of both feet, then press them into the base of the body. Make sure that the front of the feet (the notched parts) stick out from under the body. Place the penguin right-side-up against the table, and adjust the feet, if needed.

14. Consider inserting an eyehook. If you wish to turn this penguin into a charm, press a jewelry eyehook through the top of the head and into the body. If the hook is very long, trim it down first using a pair of wire cutters.

15. Bake the penguin according to the manufacturer's baking times and temperatures. Turn on your oven, and let it reach the recommended temperature, usually between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place the penguin on a foil-lined baking sheet, and bake it for the recommended time, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each company will be a little different, so you will need to read the label on the clay's wrapper.

If your penguin has a lot of fingerprints on it, gently brush it with a soft-bristled paintbrush before you bake it.

16. Allow the penguin to cool before adding the eyes. Use a black permanent marker to draw two dots on the penguin's face, right above the beak. Position them in the loops of the "heart". You can also use a thin brush and acrylic paint.

17. Glaze the penguin, if desired. If you wish to make the penguin shiny, get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Paint the penguin with the glaze, then let the glaze dry.[9] Refer to the label on the bottle, as each brand's drying times will vary.

Method 2 Making a Penguin Charm.

1. Shape the body. Knead some polymer clay until it softens, then roll it into an oval. Flatten the oval with a glass so that you get a disk shape. Cut off one of the pointy ends of the oval, so that the penguin can stand upright.

Penguins are typically black, but since you are making a cute penguin, you can make him or her any color you want! Pink, baby blue, or light purple would be especially cute!

2. Roll some white clay into a thin sheet. Clean your hands first to avoid transferring color, then knead some white clay until it softens. Roll it into a thin sheet using an acrylic rolling pin. You can find it in the polymer clay aisle of an arts and crafts store.

If you can't find an acrylic rolling pin, you can use another smooth cylinder, such as a fat marker or a rolling pin.

3. Cut an "m" shape out of the sheet. This will make the body and face of your penguin. It needs to be the width as body, but a little shorter. Use a craft blade to cut the shape out.

4. Press the white "m" onto body. Be sure to match up the base of the "m" with the base of the body. You will have a slight gap between the top of the "m" and the top of the body.

5. Make a beak. Clean your hands, then knead some orange clay until it turns soft. Press it into a thin disk, then cut a small triangle out of it using a craft blade.

6. Attach the beak. Press the triangle into the middle of the white part on the body. Make sure that the pointed tip of the triangle is pointing downward.

7. Add some eyes. Roll two small balls out of black clay. Press each ball onto the penguin to either side of the beak. They should just barely be touching the upper corners of the bead.

If you don't have any black clay, you can skip this step, and paint the eyes on instead after you are done baking.

8. Insert an eyehook into the top of the penguin. Measure the eyehook against the penguin first. If it is too long, trim it down with a pair of wire cutters. Push the eyehook down through the top of the penguin.

9. Bake the penguin. Preheat your oven to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, typically between 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C). Place your penguin onto a foil-liked baking sheet. Bake the penguin for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 15 to 20 minutes.

Each brand of clay will have different baking times and temperatures. Read the label on the clay's wrapper carefully.

If the eyehook is still look, put a little superglue around the seam.

10. Paint some feet onto the penguin once it cools. After the penguin is done baking, take it out of the oven and let it cool. Use a thin paintbrush and some orange, acrylic paint to add two small v's at the bottom of the penguin. If you don't have any paint at home, you can use an orange permanent marker instead.

11. Glaze the penguin, if desired. Get some glaze meant for polymer clay. Thread some string through the eyehook and tie it into a loop. Dip the penguin into the glaze, then lift it out. Let the excess glaze drip off, then hang the penguin by the loop so that it can dry.

Place a sheet of scrap paper under the penguin as it is drying to catch any excess glaze.

Tips.

You can bake your penguin in a convection over, regular oven, or toaster oven.

Most polymer clays bake at 215 to 325°F (102 to 163°C).

If the clay becomes too soft and squishy, set it aside until it becomes firmer. You can also put it into the fridge for a few minutes instead.

Clean your hands with baby wipes between colors. This keeps your fingers from accidentally transferring color between the clay pieces.

Gently brush the clay with a soft-bristled paintbrush after you are done sculpting, but before baking. This will help remove fingerprints.

You can make your penguin any color your want. Consider switching out the black for light blue, pink, or light purple.

If the clay is too hard to work with, knead it between your hands for a few minutes first.

If the clay is still too hard, add some clay softener into it. It is usually sold alongside the rest of the polymer clay.

Avoid mixing different polymer clay brands, as they tend to require different baking temperatures.

Glaze the penguin when you are done. You can apply the glaze with a paintbrush, and let it dry. If you added an eyehook, use the pin to dip the penguin into the glaze.



Warnings.

Do not bake your penguin in the microwave.



Things You'll Need

Making a Basic Penguin.

Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin, Oven.

Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Black permanent marker or acrylic paint, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).



Making a Penguin Charm.

Polymer clay, any color (for body), Black polymer clay, White polymer clay, Orange polymer clay, Craft blade, Acrylic rolling pin.

Oven, Baking sheet, Aluminum foil, Orange acrylic paint, Thin paintbrush, Polymer clay glaze (optional), Eyehook or eye pin (optional, for charm).

Januari 25, 2020

how to make a jack in the box

How to Make a Jack in the Box.

A Jack in the Box is a fun toy that's been around for hundreds of years. While it may seem complex, a Jack in the Box actually works with very simple mechanics. Making your own can be a fun arts and crafts activity. With some cardboard, glue, magnets, a spring, and a few other parts, you can make your very own Jack in the Box.







Part 1 Constructing the Box.



Find a sturdy piece of cardboard. You'll need a thick and sturdy piece of cardboard for the box to support itself. The kind from a large packing box should work well.

You'll be cutting out 6 squares that are each 6" x 6" (15 cm x 15 cm), so your piece of cardboard will need to be at least 18" x 12" (45 cm x 30). If you can't find a piece that big, then several pieces will work fine too.



Draw six 6" X 6" (15 cm x 15 cm) boxes on the piece of cardboard. These six squares will form the walls, floor, and lid of your Jack in the Box. Use a ruler to measure and make sure your lines are straight.

Make sure you use a dark pen or marker. Otherwise, you may not be able to see your lines when you cut.



Cut out each box. Use a pair of sharp scissors or a box cutter. Carefully cut along the lines you drew so the cardboard squares are the right size. If you're using a box cutter, make sure the cardboard is placed on a solid surface.

Wear gloves during this step to prevent paper cuts or any injuries for the scissors or box cutter.



Glue 4 of the squares together, making a cube with no top or bottom. Hot glue is the best choice for this step. White glue won't be strong enough to keep the box together. This forms the outside structure of the box.

Glue the edges of the cardboard together to form the cube. If the glue doesn't seem to be making a strong seal, you can use strips of tape to secure the cube while the glue hardens.



Glue another square to the bottom of the cube. Line up the square perfectly with the rest of the cube or your box will be uneven. This will form the floor of the box.

Lay the square down flat and put glue around the edge. Then slowly lower the box onto the square, making sure the glue makes contact with all edges of the box.



Make a hinge with the final square. Don't glue the final square to the box, or your Jack in the Box won't open. Instead, rest the square on top of the box, making sure to line up all the sides. Then, use a strip of tape to fasten one side of the square to the box. This will form a simple hinge that allows your box to open.

Clear tape is the best choice here. Colored tape might throw off your designs when you decorate your box later on.







Part 2 Sealing the Box.



Find 2 small magnets. There are lots of ways you could make the seal for your box, but a simple method uses magnets. Start by finding 2 magnets. These should be square or circle and small, not more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) long.

Craft or hardware stores usually have small magnets that are meant to hold boxes or cabinets closed. Looking for these should give you a good start.

Remember to find out which sides of the magnets attract each other. Those are the two sides you'll line up when making your seal.



Glue one magnet to the bottom of the box's lid. This should be on the opposite side where you placed the tape. On the edge of the lid and in the center, glue the first magnet.



Glue another magnet directly under the first magnet. The next magnet should be placed on the inside wall of the box so the two magnets touch each other when the lid is closed. In this position, they will attract each other and keep the box sealed.

To find the right position for the second magnet, start by closing the box slowly. This way you'll be able to see where the magnet will rest when the box is sealed. The best place for the second magnet is right under that point, so the two magnets touch when the lid is closed.



Test out your seal. See if your seal is holding after you glue both magnets. Pull up slightly to see how tight the seal is. Flip the box upside down and see if it holds.







Part 3 Making the Spring Puppet.



Glue a compression spring to the bottom of the box. Draw a circle in the middle of the box's floor to see where you'll place the spring. Then put glue on the bottom of the spring and place it over the circle you drew. Hold the spring down for a few seconds to make sure the glue seals.

Compression springs come in lots of sizes. For this project, you'll want one that's slightly taller than the box, or about 7 inches (18 cm). Your local craft store should have plenty of options.

Test the seal by making sure the box stays closed when the spring is in place. If the box doesn't stay closed, your spring is too big or your seal is too loose.



Put a sock puppet on the spring. Your Jack in the Box needs a character to pop out! A sock puppet is perfect because it can fit snugly over the spring.

You could also draw and cut out a simple face from a piece of paper and glue it to the top of the spring for a simpler design.



Test your box. With all the pieces in place, it's time to make sure your box is working! Put it on a table and lift up the lid. Your puppet should pop out of the box when you do this.



Decorate your box. Now that your box is complete, you can decorate it however you want! Use markers to draw on its sides, glue sparkly paper over it, cover it with stickers--use your imagination!





Tips.

Remember to let all glue dry before you move on. Wait a few minutes after you glue pieces together to make sure the glue holds or your box could warp as you work.



Things You'll Need.

Cardboard.

Hot glue.

Scissors.

Ruler.

Clear tape.

Gloves.

Pen or marker.

Compression spring.

Magnets

November 18, 2019

how to make shrinky dinks

How to Make Shrinky Dinks.

Shrinky Dinks are popular arts-and-crafts plastic sheets that people use to create designs. They saw great popularity with children in the 1980s. Shrinky Dinks are still sold by many major retailers and online commerce sites. You can use them to create colorful art or even jewelry. It’s also possible to make homemade versions of the plastic designs.

Part 1 Creating a Design with Shrinky Dinks.

1. Draw, trace or copy an image onto a Shrinky Dinks plastic sheet. Shrinky Dinks are usually sold as 8-inch by 10-inch plastic sheets.

Use colored pencils, markers, and ink on Shrinky Dinks. Use the colored pencil on the rough side of the sheets, and use Sharpie or permanent marker on the smooth side. Some Shrinky Dinks come pre-cut and with designs already outlined on them, and others will just be the plastic sheets.

Don’t use oily or waxy substances like crayons or oil paint on Shrinky Dinks because they will melt in high heat. Some sheets are machine-sanded frosted sheets that usually come in packs of 10. Some Shrinky Dinks come as non-sanded sheets, though; that version requires permanent markers.

Printing from a computer directly onto a sheet is also possible, and works great with photos. Print letters in a mirror image so they can be read from the nicer shiny side once shrunk. Tracing is popular as well.

2. Cut a design or punch holes in the plastic. You may want to add decorative edges to the plastic, cut out your design, or punch holes in it to make it into a necklace or charms for a bracelet.

Use paper punches if you want holes in the plastic. You might want holes if you are making jewelry or just for decoration. Punch any holes before you bake the Shrinky Dinks.

Cut out your design with decorative or regular scissors.

Part 2 Baking the Shrinky Dinks.

1. Line a cookie sheet tray with non-stick aluminum foil or baking paper. You could also create a mock tray by folding aluminum foil.

Place the Shrinky Dink cut-out designs on the tray, rough side up. Leave space between the Shrinky Dink plastic shapes or they might stick together.

Ovens should only be used with adult supervision.

2. Preheat the oven at 325 degrees Fahrenheit. You probably only need to pre-heat the oven for 1 to 3 minutes. You can use a toaster oven or a conventional oven.

Once the oven is preheated, put the tray with the Shrinky Dinks into the oven.

You only need to bake them for 1 to 3 minutes. At first the Shrinky Dinks will curl up, but they will flatten back out. Once they flatten back out, bake for 30 more seconds.

3. Remove the tray from oven. Use a potholder so you don’t burn yourself, and be careful.

You could flatten your Shrinky Dinks more by pressing them flat with folded paper. However, this step may not be necessary.

Let the Shrinky Dinks cool for a few minutes before handling them. The finished piece will shrink to 1/3 the original’s size, but it will become 9 times thicker. The artwork will be brighter and bolder, and you can more easily preserve it.

Part 3 Making Homemade Plastic Designs.

1. Obtain a piece of #6 plastic. For example, this is the kind of plastic often used in salad bar containers.

Look for a “6” on the bottom of the plastic. The plastic needs to be relatively thick to work.

Cut away the extra plastic until you are left with a flat square.

2. Draw your design on the plastic, using permanent marker. It’s best with this kind of plastic not to use colored pencils.

Once baked, the image will shrink to about a third of its size and will increase in thickness.

Cut your design out and/or punch holes in it. Round the corners a bit as edges may sharpen upon baking.

3. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Put the rack in the lowest oven position. The reason the plastic works for designs is because it’s made out of polystyrene just as Shrinky Dinks are.

Make a tray out of aluminum foil by folding it until it’s thick enough to hold the plastic. Put the plastic designs on the tray.

Bake for about 3.5 minutes. The plastic will curl, and then straighten itself out. Remove, and allow to cool.

4. Finished.

November 29, 2019

how to make a paper penguin

How to Make a Paper Penguin.

Whether as a crafts project for a small child or as an origami project for older people, there are plenty of ways to make a paper penguin that are fun for people of any age!

Steps.

1. Purchase origami paper. This method calls for just a single sheet of 6” x 6” origami paper. If you want a larger penguin, then you can easily go for 12” x 12” paper, but you'll have to multiply any directions containing measurements by two. If you want an even better looking penguin, buy paper that is white on one side and black on the other.

2. Fold diagonal creases along the middle. To start, you want to place the sheet of origami paper flat (with the white side facing up if you have paper with a black side as well). Then fold the paper in half diagonally so the bottom left corner is flush with the top right corner and make a crease. Unfold the paper and do the same with the opposite corners, and then unfold the page again.

When you unfold the sheet again, you will have creases forming a large X across the page.

3. Fold the lower left corner to the center. With the page flat again and the large creases making an X, you will then take the lower left corner of the paper and fold it so that the tip of the corner touches the center of the page. In other words, the corner edge will touch the center of the X made by the earlier creases.  Flatten the folded portion and make another crease, then open the sheet so it's flat again.

4. Fold the upper right corner to the crease you just made. You will now have the large X crease as well as a smaller diagonal crease in the lower left of the page. Take the top right corner of the page and fold it over so that it touches the lower left crease. Then open the page once more.

5. Turn the page over. For the next set of folds, you'll need to turn the page over. If you have two-colored paper, this means that the black side will now faces up. When you turn the paper over, orient it diagonally so that the current lower left corner now points up.

6. Fold the left corner to the right corner. With the paper in the new orientation, take the corner pointing left and fold the paper in half so that it's flush with the corner pointing right. There will already be a crease here from when you made this fold on the other side of the sheet, but you'll need to crease it in the opposite direction when you fold it over.

7. Fold the bottom corner over to the right. From the last step, the sheet will now look like a triangle with the side on the left forming a vertical line. Take the corner of the triangle that points down and fold it across at a 45° angle. Fold it so that the horizontal edge made at the top of the fold touches the lower crease already on this part of the page—not the middle crease but the one below it. Once you've made the crease from this fold, turn the flap back over so that you have the same triangle shape you started with.

8. Reverse-fold the corner along the crease you just made. A reverse fold is a bit more three-dimensional than the other folds you've made so far. In order to make the reverse fold, take the crease you just made and crease it in the opposite direction, but make the crease by folding and tucking the corner into the paper.

Januari 22, 2020

how to make colored salt

How to Make Colored Salt.

Colored salt is used for art and craft, for decoration, for teaching skills with writing or drawing, and for making rangoli for Diwali. It's easy to make, and depending on the exact items in your craft or kitchen cupboard, you might even be able to make it without buying a thing.







Coloring Salt with Paint.



Fill a container with salt. A jug or pitcher, a deep bowl, a plastic food container, etc. will all suffice.



Squeeze a little tempera paint into the salt.



Mix with a spoon or other item. Stir until the paint is evenly distributed through the salt.



Let stand overnight to dry.

Make as many more colors as you need for your project. That way, they'll all be ready at the same time.



Test before using. Check that the salt has dried before using in your craft, rangoli, teaching, etc. projects.









Coloring Salt with Liquid Food Coloring.



Use liquid food coloring for this method. Choose a color or colors that you wish to work with.



Tip the salt into a resealable bag.



Add the liquid food coloring to the salt. It's recommended that you do this gradually, a drop at a time, so that you can intensify the color as needed and stop when you're happy with it. The more drops added, the more intense the color.



Carefully press the air from the resealable bag without losing the salt. Seal. Wait for around a minute before proceeding, to give the salt time to settle.

Image titled Make Colored Salt Step 10

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Press down on the bag again and again. This will move the coloring around all of the salt. Knead until you can see that the color has permeated all of the salt in the plastic bag.



Done. The salt is now ready for use. If you see any salt that is damp, let it dry before use, by allowing air into the bag and waiting a few hours more.

If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.







Coloring Salt with Gel Food Coloring.



For this method, use gel-based food coloring. You should find it dries instantly and won't leave any liquid, which may be the case with liquid food coloring.



Tip the salt into a resealable bag.



Add the gel food coloring. Transfer the gel using an implement such as a wooden or metallic skewer tip, the end of a butter knife or a toothpick. Only use a small amount at a time, adding a little more if you're not yet satisfied with the color. Gel coloring is fairly vibrant with just a little amount, so you don't want to overdo it.



Carefully press down on the bag to remove excess air. Seal tightly.



Shake or knead the color throughout the bag. Ensure that all of the salt is evenly colored.



Done. Given that this is gel, the colored salt should be ready to use immediately.

If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.







Coloring Salt with Chalk.



Choose a chalk color that you wish to use. Chalks come in a range of pastel and bright colors, depending on where you buy them from. Check art, craft or upmarket toy stores for a wider variety than you might find in traditional stationery or dollar stores.



Cover the workspace with a large sheet of paper.



Pour the salt onto the paper. The amount of salt depends on the amount you need.



Place the piece of chalk on its side, on the salt. Roll the chalk back and forth over the salt on the paper. As you do this, the color from the chalk will color the salt. Keep rolling until you're happy with the color.



Using the paper as a funnel, pour the chalk-colored salt into a resealable bag or a storage container.



Done. The colored salt is now ready to use, or you can store it until needed.

Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.



Tips.

A rolling pin can be used to distribute the color for the resealable bag color-distributing methods; ensure that there is no air in the bag and roll it up and down until the salt is evenly colored.

Keep colored salt in an airtight container when not in use. Make sure that the lid is on firmly, to prevent spilling it.

For a bath treat, add some essential oil drops as well as the colorant.

If making a lot of colored salt in varied colors, use clean food containers to free up the usual kitchen containers for your cooking and eating.



Warnings.

While these crafts are non-toxic, they are very messy. As such, they are best either supervised carefully or done by older children and adults.



Things You'll Need.

Salt (sea salt, rock salt, table salt, Epsom salts, etc. are all fine to use).

Container for holding salt or a resealable bag.

Colorant.

Stirring implement (such as a spoon, a skewer, a chopstick, etc.).

Storage container (if relevant).

November 17, 2019