How to Make a Paper Snake Using Toilet Paper Rolls.
Paper snakes are fun and easy to make. They are a great craft to learn about snakes. They also make great decorations for Halloween, or for nature lovers.
Steps.
1. Gather your supplies. If you have any spare toilet paper rolls laying around, you can turn them into a fun, wiggly snake using a bit of paint and string. Here's a list of what you will need:
3 – 4 toilet paper rolls, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, Scissors, Yarn, Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes, Hole punch.
2. Gather three to four toilet paper rolls. If you cannot find that many toilet paper rolls, you can use some paper towel rolls instead.
3. Use scissors to cut each toilet paper roll in half. If you are using paper towel rolls, cut them into thirds.
4. Paint the toilet paper rolls and let them dry. You can paint them all one color. You can also paint each roll a different color. If you want to add patterns and designs, wait for the paint to dry first.
5. Choose two rolls to be your head and tail tip and set them aside. You don't want them to get mixed up with the body of the snake.
6. Punch four holes in each body piece. There will be two holes on the top, and two holes on the bottom. The holes need to be straight across from each other. Make sure that the top and bottom holes on each side are aligned.
7. Punch two holes into the head and tail tip piece. The holes need to be straight across from each other.
8. Cut some yarn into 5 inch (12.7 centimeters) long pieces. You will need enough pieces to tie the rolls together.
9. Tie the pieces together using the yarn. Don't tie the yarn too tight, or the snake won't be able to wiggle. There should be a gap between each piece. Try to hide the knot inside the snake.
10. Add the tongue. Cut a long, skinny rectangle from a piece of red paper and cut a V shape into on end. You can also use a piece of red ribbon. Glue the flat end inside the snake's head. Make sure that it is in the middle of the mouth.
If you want your snake to have a closed mouth, ask an adult to staple the end of the roll shut, right over the tongue.
11. Add the eyes. You can draw the eyes on using a crayon or marker. You can also paint them on. If you have any googly eyes at home, you can glue them on using white school glue or tacky glue.
Tips.
Look at pictures of real snakes to get ideas for your snake.
Read a book about snakes while you work. This way, you can learn about them too.
Warnings.
Play gently with these snakes. Paper is fragile and can rip easily.
Do not let these snakes to get wet.
Adult supervision is required for cutting steps.
Things You'll Need.
3 – 4 toilet paper rolls, Acrylic or tempera paint, Paintbrushes, Scissors, Yarn, Red paper or ribbon, White school glue or tacky glue, Markers, crayons, or googly eyes, Hole punch.
If you're crafty and like to make things, chances are the materials and supplies that go into your hobbies have stacked up over time, and not in a tidy way. Here's how to regain a bit of control and find what you need, when you need it.
Steps.
1. Locate all of the craft supplies that you own.
If something is basically already organized or put away, don't pull it out now. Start with the stuff that's in your way.
Go a bit at a time, especially if you have a lot of stuff. Spend fifteen minutes sorting, or just sort one bag, bin, or area.
2. Cull the excess. It can be hard to admit that a particular activity might have been a passing phase that you've outgrown, or that an unfinished project ought to remain so, but if you can reduce the amount of stuff you'll have less of it to organize and to have to cram in somewhere.
Go for the easy stuff first, to help yourself build momentum. Toss anything that's obvious: hopelessly tiny scraps, mostly empty packages, dried-up paints.
Remember, you decide what's worth keeping. At the same time, organizing only goes so far if there's too much stuff.
Be choosy about what you bring home from the craft store. Do you have a project in mind for this item? Do you have a place to put it? Do you really find it attractive or promising? Can you do the project? Anytime soon? Be realistic, and you'll save money, space, and time.
3. Sort out all of the supplies that you have into smaller groups.
Sort by item type. Put glue sticks, bottles, and jars into one pile. Put decorative stickers into a different pile. Put fancy paper into a pile of its own.
Better yet, sort by activity. Have one kit, bag, bin, or space for painting, one for paper crafts, one for yarn, knitting needles,
4. Choose where to store your supplies. Think about where and how you do crafts. If you have a craft area already, add drawers, bins, or shelves. If you knit in front of the TV, your organization may consist of a knitting basket or two with active projects that live by the sofa and a bin full of extra yarn and inactive supplies stashed away in a closet elsewhere.
Try a drawer organizer or even a fishing tackle box to corral many small items. Something with multiple smaller spaces helps separate little stuff.
If you have a lot of small items, like beads or buttons, giving each group its own small container or compartment that seals or closes tight can save spills.
Do you craft on the go? A tote bag or even a purse-sized craft kit might be just the right organization system for you. Keep a project at hand when you go out to make use of wait times.
5. Keep on sorting.
Sort a little bit whenever you start or finish a project or get new supplies.
Rearrange if you notice something isn't working. If it's not where you looked for it, put it back where you will look for it next time. If it's not handy and you use it often, put it back near the top or closer to where you work.
6. Arrange by size and shape so that things are visible and accessible. It's best if you don't have to empty an entire bin to get out one item.
Put the flat objects into the container first, standing up on one side if possible, and then place the non-flat objects on top of them or alongside. Put frequently used items near the top.
For materials, like paper or fabric, try a filing system that displays them. Stand them on edge in a bin or drawer so that you can sort through them and see at a glance what you have. Smaller pieces might be rolled and stood up in a basket or bin.
7. Repeat this process with different containers until everything is filed away.
8. Label with tape or paper what is in each container. Don't rely on sticky notes or anything else that could fall off too easily. For example, if a certain container holds glue, markers, and crayons, write that out and attach that to the container. This way, you will know what is in the container when you need to get something out of it in the future.
9. Finished.
Tips.
Buy plastic containers that are clear so that you can see through them and find supplies in them more easily.
Don't rush this process by stuffing your craft supplies into random containers to get it all over with. A small investment of time now will save time in the future.
Put things where they'll be handy when you need them, and where you think you'll look for them.
Try to get the plastic containers for a good price, but make sure they are really sturdy so you won't have to get new ones later on.
Most importantly, find your own balance between creativity and control.
Organization is whatever you want it to be. If you want your colored pencils out on display so you can grab them easily when inspiration strikes, put them in a big jar or cup wherever you like to draw.
Take the time to treat your supplies properly. Don't store brushes on their tips or leave them soaking in water. Close tightly any paints, ink, clay, and anything else that might dry out. Protect your fabric and yarn from moths and mice, but don't seal it so tightly that it becomes musty.
Don't panic if your craft area doesn't stay neatly organized. If you're using the stuff regularly, it may tend to wander around your work area and get left out. If you can, work in a back room, basement, or garage and simply close the door when people come, or deem the space your studio and let it be messy! A moderately cluttered work area could actually increase your creativity by bringing together unrelated things accidentally or by reminding you of what supplies you have available. Thus, take a casual attitude about neatening and organizing this aspect of your life. Tidy up when you feel like it, when you can't find anything, or when having the clutter around would get in your way.
Sort and organize in a way that makes the most sense to you. If you regularly use glue to affix yarn, store the glue with the yarn.
Things You'll Need.
Craft supplies.
Multiple containers depending on the amount of supplies.
A craft room is a place where you want to let your creative energies take over. Organizing your craft room will take some work but the end result is worth the effort. You will want to start by gathering and sorting all of your available craft supplies. Then, find places to store these items where they will be easy to grab and use in the midst of a project. Use organizing as an opportunity to display those items that inspire you as well.
Method 1 Sorting Your Craft Supplies.
1. Gather all of your craft items. Grab a basket and walk throughout your living space grabbing any and all craft supplies and tools. Carry them into your designated craft room and place everything in the middle of the floor. Once you think that you’ve gotten it all, go back through one more time just to be certain. Make sure to open all of your drawers and cabinets, as craft supplies can often ‘hide.’
Likewise, go through your craft room and identify any objects or items that do not belong there and move them out. They may need to go in a ‘staging area’ in another room, so that you can concentrate your energy on your craft area.
2. Sort your supplies out according to item type. Look over your supply pile and begin to build smaller piles based upon different categories of supplies. For example, put all of your wrapping paper together. All fabrics should go together initially. After these first piles are finished, you can go back through them and narrow them even further according to size and color. For example, put all of the red wrapping paper together.
At this point your room may be in controlled chaos, so be careful walking around or you may slip on one of your piles. For that reason, try to keep other people out of the room as well, at least during this stage.
To keep you from feeling overwhelmed, bring an egg timer into the room and set it for 15-minutes. When the timer goes off, take a 5-minute break. Then, re-set the timer and start again. This will keep you motivated to work at a steady pace without burning out.
3. Decide what to donate. As you sort, identify items that are worth donating. Perhaps you have multiples of some items or maybe leftover supplies from projects that you’ve completed and moved on from. Make sure that whatever you donate is safe for another user. For example, don’t donate rusty scissors or any cracked glass items.
Various charity organizations, schools, and libraries will gladly accept donations of craft supplies as long as they are in good condition. This is a great opportunity to share your interest in crafting with other people.
Depending on the amount of items that you have, some charities will actually come to your house and pick them up for you. This may be a good opportunity to do organize other areas of your home as well.
4. Create a trash pile and dispose of it. As you sort, identify items that need to be thrown away. This could be items that you no longer find useful, but that aren’t suitable for donation due to condition or quantity. You should also trash any supplies that are no good anymore, such as dried out glue or frayed ribbons. Ask yourself if you’ve used the item in the past year and if you haven’t odds are it needs to be thrown away or donated.
Take the trash out after you’ve finished sorting the main pile. If you wait you are likely to leave it there and it will become an eyesore and will slow your organizing progress.
5. Repeat this process every few weeks. As life goes on, many of your supplies will likely wander out of your craft space once more. To keep your area tidy and useful for you, go through a sorting and cleaning process fairly often, especially after completing a major project.
Also, devote at least ten minutes after you finish working in your craft room for picking up and storing items in their new proper places. Devoting even this small amount of time can make a major difference in the long-term appearance of your craft room.
Method 2 Implementing a Storage System.
1. Store similar items together. You’ll want to keep your supplies together in their sorted piles as you place them in their designated storage spots and containers. Extra-small items will need to be placed in extra-small containers and will probably be grouped together for storage and then usage.
Keep an eye out for items that may appear similar but that have slightly different functions. These situations may require that you divide up your storage system even further. For example, you’ll want to divide your fabric scissors from your paper scissors.
2. Use plastic bins. These are the number one storage option when organizing a craft room. They come in a wide variety of sizes and are easy to stack. They also fit well within a cube shelf. You can see inside the clear bins, making it easy to find an item that you are looking for.
Depending on how you arrange your bins, you will want to purchase ones that open on the top or via a front panel. Look for lids that snap on tightly to avoid spilling your supplies.
Bins are also especially useful when working with messy items such as paints. In addition, they contain fumes from paints as well.
Make sure to purchase extra bins, and to leave space in the ones that you currently use, for new supplies that you may purchase.
3. Arrange items by color. Store and display your craft supplies according to the color wheel. This will create a quick way for you to find an item that you need for a particular project. It will also lead to beautiful displays of items within the room itself. For example, if you have a bunch of balls of yarn, sort them according to color (reds next to orange tints, etc.) and place them in a wooden cube bookcase for quick access and visual appeal.
4. Repurpose materials as storage containers. Almost any container that is sturdy with a lid can be reused as storage in your craft room. Try to think creatively and find jars, buckets, etc. that you find visually appealing already. They will be even more attractive when holding your supplies.
Here are a few unique ideas. To house smaller items such as sequins, use little plastic pill storage boxes that you can get at a pharmacy or grocery store. For colored beads, place them in a spice rack by color for ease of access and beauty. Small tins or colored buckets make a great storage option for pens, pencils, and paintbrushes.
For a more industrial look, grab a magnetic knife holder from your kitchen, attach it to the wall of your craft room, and use it to display your sharp cutting devices and scissors. This works best when positioned close to your standing work area.
Look at crafting sites and blogs online or buy inspirational craft books/magazines in order to find additional design ideas that may suit your particular space and taste.
5. Label everything. This is especially important when storing items in plastic bins or opaque containers. As you put away every storage container, make sure that it has a clear and visible label that you can see from the center of your craft room. For example, the bin with tape should say, “Tape-clear.”
You can get as fancy as you’d like with the labels. Some people prefer to use a standard label maker while others print directly from online templates. You can even make your own labels by hand.
6. Install shelving. You want to get the most use out of all surfaces within your room, so don’t ignore the walls. Look around your craft room and consider adding shelves to many of the open spaces on the walls. Think creatively about shelving and use materials such as recycled bookcase shelves or even old metal signs repurposed as shelves.
Method 3 Organizing Your Space for Creative Inspiration.
1. Locate your work table for ease of access. Get a sturdy table that you’d feel comfortable working on and place it in the most convenient space in the room, usually right in the middle. You want to be able to access it from all sides. Consider adding a chair or stool, unless you plan to stand all of the time when crafting.
In addition to your main table, you may want another one placed against the wall that will almost act like a workbench. You can hang items on the wall next to it for quick grabbing access.
2. Keep your favorite supplies close by. The materials that you are using for a current project, or those that you consistently rely upon, should be placed close to your table workspace. For example, if you are a seamstress, do not hide your best pair of cutting shears in a labeled storage bin in the closet.
3. Emphasize the natural light when possible. If you have a choice of room, pick a room with ample light sources. This will help to save you from eye strain as you work on your projects. You can also supplement the light by adding interesting (and bright) lamps. Hanging lamps often work the quite well as they are out of the way.
4. Create an inspiration board. Pin up photos or drawings to a fabric-covered poster board. Or, hang a magnetic board on your wall and attach items to it. Clip or write down quotes that you like and attach them to the board. Let it keep growing until you feel the need to remove some items into storage. This can be a fairly chaotic, but inspirational space, in an another organized room.
To add even more visual appeal, use colorful and creative stick-pins to attach items to the board. You can even go with pieces of patterned tape too.
5. Decorate with beautiful craft items. If you love your yarn, don’t hide it, display it. As you sort out items at the start of this process, look for those supplies that you find particularly visually stunning or exciting. Try to create spaces out in the open to store these items. For example, lengths of ribbon can be stored and displayed by hanging a peg board on the wall.
6. Create more access by manipulating your space. Don’t be afraid to use every inch of your craft room for some storage, display, or work purpose. You can paint inspirational quotes on the ceiling and hang items from it too. You can go vertical up the walls and increase your reach by employing footstools. Typically neglected areas, such as the backs of doors, can be put to good use with hanging storage pouches.
Increase your visibility in closet spaces by removing the doors and replacing them with a rod and curtain. When you first enter your room, sweep aside the curtain and you’ve got instant access and visibility into this space.
Tips.
You might want to do an inventory as you sort and organize, in order to determine what supplies you need to reorder.
Warnings.
Think about design and utility, but also safety. If you will have kids in your craft room, watch how you display sharp tools, etc.
There are lots of ways to recycle plastic soda bottles, and turning them into adorable penguins is one of them. With a little bit of paint, time, and creativity, you can turn 2 plastic soda bottles into an adorable penguin. If you have a lot of plastic soda bottles then you can create an entire penguin family!
Part 1 Assembling the Base.
1. Find 2 plastic soda bottles. The large, 2-liter (67.2-oz) bottles will work the best for this, but you can use smaller soda bottles too. Look for the kind that have the 4 bumps on the bottom. These bumps will make the feet and the hat.
The color of the bottles does not matter. You will be painting it.
2. Remove the labels and wash the bottles. Peel the labels off first, then wash the bottles inside-out with soap and warm water. Be sure to remove all sticker residue. Dry the bottles with a towel.
Wipe the bottles down with rubbing alcohol as well. This will remove any oils that might keep the paint from sticking. Let the bottles dry; this should only take a few seconds.
3. Cut the bottles in half and recycle the top sections. A craft blade will work the best for this, but you can do it with a sharp pair of scissors too. Young children should be supervised during this step.
If the cut edge is jagged, cut it smoother with a pair of scissors.
For a smaller penguin, cut the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) off of the first bottle, and cut the second bottle in half. The shorter half will make the bottom.
4. Tuck 1 bottle inside the other to make a capsule. Turn the bottles so that the cut edges are facing one another. Slide the first bottle into the second bottle by about 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). If the bottles won't fit inside one another, cut a 1⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) slit into 1 of the bottles first; place this edge on the inside.
Make sure that the 4 bumps on the top and bottom of the capsule line up.
5. Glue the bottles together, if desired. If the bottles are loose, glue them together with tacky glue or super glue. Pull the bottles apart, and paint the inside rim of 1 bottle with glue. Slide it over the other bottle.
Hot glue is not recommended because it is too bulky.
Alternatively, you can keep the bottles loose, and use the penguin as a gift box.
Part 2 Painting the Penguin.
1. Paint the entire capsule black, then let it dry. Take the capsule outside or into a well-ventilated area. Set it down on a sheet of newspaper, then coat it with black spray paint. Let the paint dry for 15 to 20 minutes, then turn the capsule over. Spray paint the bottom and let it dry completely.
Hold the can 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) from the capsule, and spray using a side-to-side motion.
If the paint is too thin, let it dry completely, then apply another coat of paint.
If you don't have spray paint, paint the capsule using black acrylic craft paint and a paintbrush.
2. Paint the penguin's face and belly white, then allow them to dry. Use a pointed paintbrush and white acrylic craft paint to outline the white face and belly of the penguin. Fill your outline in using a flat paintbrush. Let the paint dry, then add another layer if the first layer is too thin. Let the second layer dry too, if you added it.
Look at pictures of real or cartoon penguins to get ideas for the placement of the white parts.
Make sure that 2 of the bumps on the base of the capsule line up with the bottom of the penguin's belly. These are its feet!
If you are making a smaller penguin, use the shorter half to make the bottom.
3. Give the penguin a widow's peak, if desired. Use a pointed brush and black acrylic craft paint to draw a V-shape at the top of the penguin's white face. Fill the V-shape in with black paint so that it blends in with the body. For an even nicer finish, made the sides of the V-shape curved so that it looks like Mickey Mouse's widow's peak. Let the paint dry before moving on.
4. Paint 2 eyes and a beak using acrylic craft paint. Use a yellow upside-down triangle for the beak, and 2 black dots for the eyes. For a more realistic beak, paint a yellow or orange circle, then draw a horizontal black line going through the middle.
Look at pictures of cartoon penguins to get ideas.
You can also hot glue 2 buttons or 2 googly eyes for the eyes.
If you don't have yellow paint, cut a triangle out of yellow paper, and glue that on instead.
Part 3 Adding Optional Details.
1. Give your penguin character with lashes, eyebrows, and/or blush. You don't have to do any of these, but they can really give your penguin personality. Use a very thin brush for the lashes and/or eyebrows, or a paint pen. Use a larger pointed brush to apply pink paint for the blush.
If you want to give your penguin visible yellow feet, paint the 2 bumps in the front (under the white bellow) with yellow acrylic craft paint.
2. Paint the top half of the bottle to turn it into a hat. The 4 bumps on top of your penguin's head can easily turn into a hat. Paint a line around the penguin's head, just above the eyes, then fill in everything above that line. Use whatever color you want.
If you have a molded line just below the bumps, you can use that as a guide instead.
3. Let the hat dry, then add some details. You can make the hat look more hat-like by painting or drawing some stripes or spots onto it. Use a thin, pointed paintbrush and acrylic craft paint in a contrasting color to do this. Let the paint dry when you are done.
Use a paint pen for thin stripes or small dots.
4. Glue a pompom to the top of the hat, if desired. You can make the pompom yourself out of yarn, or you can buy it from the kids section of a craft store. Hot glue the pompom to the top of the hat, right between all 4 bumps.
Choose a pompom color that matches the designs on your hat. If you did not add designs, then use a contrasting color instead.
5. Tie ribbon around the neck to make a scarf. Find some ribbon that goes well with the hat. Wrap the ribbon around the penguin's neck, then cross the left end over the right end. Bring the left end up through the gap, then tighten it. This is just like starting to tie a pair of shoes!
Glue both ends of the ribbon to the penguin so that they stay down.
If you are turning this into a gift box, make sure that you keep the ribbon below the seam.
You can also cut a long, skinny strip out of felt, and use that instead of ribbon. Cut fringes into each end for additional charm.
Question : How do we make the eyes?
Answer : Cut out two small black circles, and two slightly larger yellow circles. Glue the black circles onto the yellow circles, and glue those onto the white face.
Question : We don't have to remove the bottle cap?
Answer : If you have removed the cap, you will have to tape or otherwise plug the hole on the top to "sculpt" the rounded top of the head on, so it is not recommended to remove the cap. However, taping or a cork replacement can be used.
Question : Can I use a plastic bottle?
Answer : Yes, but it may be hard to paint.
Tips.
If you want your penguin to have a pointy hat, discard 1 of the bottom halves and keep 1 of the top halves. Use the top half as the hat.
Use paintbrushes made from sable or taklon bristles. Do not use boar bristle, horsehair, or camelhair.
Spray the penguin with varnish or sealer, if desired. Do this after you finish painting, but before you add pompoms and scarves.
You can spray the capsule with paint primer first to help the paint stick better.
If you are worried about the paint chipping, spray the capsule with paint primer before you start painting.
Warnings.
Use low-temp hot glue guns to avoid blisters and burns. Do not use high-temp hot glue guns.
Things You'll Need.
2 plastic soda bottles, Craft blade, Black spray paint, Acrylic craft paint (white, yellow, and black).
Acrylic craft paint, 2 contrasting colors, Flat and pointed paintbrushes, Ribbon or felt, Pompom, Hot glue, Tacky glue or super glue.
Cows are a favorite barnyard animal among kids of all ages. If you want to make your own cow, there are many different ways to do it, so you can choose a craft based on the materials you have on hand.
Steps.
1. Cut the toe off. Use scissors to cut off the rounded toe end, removing roughly one-fifth of the sock in the process.
On a standard adult sock, the length of the cut portion should be between 4 and 5 inches (10 and 12.5 cm).
The cut toe portion will become the head of the cow. Save the rest of the sock for the body.
2. Stuff and seal the ends. Stuff the cut toe portion with a small bundle of fiberfill or similar filling material. Leave the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) empty; glue or sew the ends together.
Fold the raw open edge in by no more than 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).
To create a rounded head, you'll need to begin by gluing the sides of the empty portion together. Glue the opening closed, then fold it down over the stuffed bundle. Stitch or glue the folded material in place.
3. Cut off the cuff. Cut off the back opening of the sock, removing a portion equal in length to the original cut toe portion.
The cut portion should be about one-fifth the length of the original sock. On a standard adult's sock, this should be roughly 4 to 5 inches (10 to 12.5 cm).
You'll use parts of this cut portion for the ears. The leftover sock will be used for the body.
4. Separate the cuff into two ovals. Cut the cuff in half, parallel to the ribbing. Cut out one long oval from each half.
Each oval should have roughly the same width and length of the cuff half.
These ovals will become the ears. You can discard the rest of the cuff material.
5. Stitch the sides. Fold one oval in half crosswise. Using a needle and thread, blanket stitch over the the raw, rounded edge. Repeat with the second oval.
Alternatively, you can use hot glue to hold the ear halves together. Lay a thin stream of hot glue around the entire edge, then carefully press the raw edges into the glue. With the raw edges trapped, fold the oval in half crosswise, sticking both ends together.
6. Attach the ears to the head. Place the flat edge of one ear along one fold of the head. Repeat with the other ear and the other head fold.
You should be able to attach the ears with either thread or hot glue.
7. Add button eyes. Sew two buttons two the front of the head, positioning them roughly halfway between the ears and the original toe-seam of the sock.
8. Place the felt nostrils. Peel the backings off two small, self-adhesive round felt pads. Place each pad onto the original two-seam of the head.
Align these felt pads to the eyes of the cow.
9. Cut slits into the remaining sock body. Flip the remaining sock over so that the heel faces up. Cut straight slits through both sides of the material from either end of the sock.
Keep both slits as centered as possible from either end. Each should span roughly one-half to two-thirds the space in between the open end and the nearest side of the heel. On a standard adult's sock, the slits should be 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) long.
10. Stitch around the slits. Turn the sock inside-out and sew along all of the raw edges, leaving roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) open along the back slit.
As you sew along the slits and the raw open edges, you should see the legs of the cow taking shape. The front of the sock should form the front legs and the back of the sock should form the back legs.
Once you finish sewing along these raw edges, turn the body right-side out again through the remaining gap.
11. Stuff the body with fiberfill. Insert fiberfill or a similar material into the body of the cow through the open gap.
When finished, carefully turn the raw edge inward. Glue or edge-stitch the opening closed.
12. Attach the head to the body. Place the head of the cow in between the heel and the front legs. Sew or glue into place.
13. Attach yarn to the back end. Cut a piece of brown yarn equal in length to the cow's back legs. Knot both ends of the yarn, then stitch or glue it in place.
The yarn become the tail of the cow. You'll need to attach one end to the back of the heel, centering it in between the two back legs. The other end should hang free.
Cows are a favorite barnyard animal among kids of all ages. If you want to make your own cow, there are many different ways to do it, so you can choose a craft based on the materials you have on hand.
Steps.
1. Cut up the cardboard tubes. You can start with two empty toilet paper rolls or one empty paper towel roll.
If you use the paper towel roll, cut it in half. Refer to each half as a separate roll for the remainder of the instructions.
Cut one of the rolls in half. Save one half for use as the cow's head and discard the other half.
Cut 1 inch (2.5 cm) off one end of the other roll. This roll will become the body of the cow. Discard the excess 1 inch (2.5 cm).
2. Create ear slits. Using pencil, lightly sketch two ovals onto one end of the head piece, positioning them on opposite sides of the cylindrical perimeter.
These ovals will become ears. Each one should be about one-quarter the length of the tube.
Carefully cut along three-quarters of each oval outline, leaving the innermost end of each oval alone. Fold up the cut portions so that they stick out from the sides of the tube, creating ears.
3. Snip and fold horn slits. Draw two small triangles near one end of the tube, centering them in between both ears.
These triangles will become horns. They should be smaller than half the size of one ear.
Carefully cut along two edges of each triangle, leaving the innermost edge alone. Fold up the cut portions so that they stick out from the side of the tube, creating horns.
4. Cut out two egg carton sections. Cut two compartments out of an empty egg carton. Discard the rest of the carton.
These two sections will become the legs of your cow. One section will form both front legs and the other will form both back legs.
Carefully cut out the front and back of both sections, leaving the sides and bottoms intact.
5. Paint everything white. Paint both cardboard tubes and both egg carton sections white. Allow the paint to dry.
You should paint both sides of the ear slits, but you do not need to paint the horn slits at this time.
6. Add black spots. Use black paint to add spots to the head and body of the cow. Let the paint dry when finished.
To create realistic spots, paint spots with uneven sides. Avoid sharp points, opting for rounded corners instead.
Note that you should also space the spots apart in uneven intervals instead of creating patterns or symmetry.
7. Define the ears and horns. Paint a small pink oval in the front side of each ear. Paint both sides of each horn gray. Let the paint dry.
The pink inner ear should follow the outline of the ear slit, but you should leave some blank white space around the edge of each center.
8. Attach the eyes. Using craft glue, adhere two googly craft eyes onto the face. Allow the glue to dry completely.
Both eyes should lie just in front of the ears along the length of the head. Place each eye in between one horn and one ear along the width (perimeter) of the head.
9. Glue the pieces together. Glue both egg carton pieces onto the same side of the body roll. Glue the head onto the opposite side of the body roll.
Turn both carton sections upside-down so that the flat bottoms become the tops. Place one section near the front of the body and the other section near the back.
With the cow standing on its egg carton feet, glue the back half of the head onto the top of the body.
10. Stuff the rolls with cotton. Once everything dries, stuff cotton balls into both open cardboard rolls.
Use enough cotton to tightly back both rolls. If you pack it tightly enough, you should not need to use glue to hold the cotton in place.
11. Attach the mouth. Cut a small piece of pink pipe cleaner out and glue it to the cotton at the front of the face.
The pink pipe cleaner should roughly match the diameter of the cardboard tube.
Bend the pipe cleaner into a slight curve to give the cow a smile.
Use glue to attach the pipe cleaner to the bottom half of the cotton at the front of the face.
12. Add a tail. Cut a small length of white yarn. Use glue to attach one end to the top of the cardboard body at the back of the cow.
The tail should be at least as long as the diameter of the tube, if not a little longer.
13. Observe your work. The cardboard cow is finished and ready to admire.
Things You'll Need.
2 empty toilet paper rolls OR 1 empty paper towel roll,Empty egg carton,Pencil,Scissors,White paint,Black paint,Pink paint,Paintbrush,Cotton balls,Glue,2 googly craft eyes,Pink pipe cleaner,White yarn,
A balloon pet can be made in various ways, each making use of the balloon shape and then being decorated as you please. In each case, these little "companions" aren't meant to last long; they're just a fun toy or decoration for a short time.
Method 1 Blown up balloon pets.
1. Make a balloon pet using a blown-up balloon. There are lots of possibilities here, so this section will provide a few suggestions and you can experiment with your own as well.
2. Make a balloon dog. Choose a balloon in the color you'd like the dog to be, such as brown, white, black, grey or any other color.
Blow up the balloon with helium gas. Tie it into a knot, to keep the gas in place.
Draw floppy ear shapes onto two pieces of card. Color in (if needed), then cut these out. Attach using glue to each side of the balloon, at the non-knotted end.
Draw the face directly onto the balloon. Draw a kidney shape facing downward for the snout and draw a circle in the middle for the dog's nose. Draw large eyes above the snout and blacken them in.
Tie a string on the base. The dog balloon can now be played with or used as a party decoration.
3. Make a balloon fish. Choose an orange or yellow balloon for making the fish.
Blow up the balloon. You can use air or helium gas, whichever is easiest. Tie a knot in it, to keep the air in place.
Draw two fin shapes on orange or yellow card. Cut these out. Attach them with glue to the sides of the balloon, with the back of the fins facing toward the knotted end of the balloon.
Cut out a tail fin from the orange or yellow card. Glue over the knotted area of the balloon.
Stick on two large eyes made from card. Or, simply draw these on with markers.
The fish balloon is now ready for play or to be placed out as a decoration for a party.
4. Make a balloon puppy. This is a fun one for the kids to drag around with them, and is easier if you only have air rather than helium for filling the balloons.
Blow up the balloon. Tie a knot in it, to keep the air in place. (Air is best as it allows the balloon puppy to hover around the kid's feet as it is being walked.)
At the knot end of the balloon, create the dog's face. Draw a round nose just above the knot and blacken it in. Draw a smiling mouth (two semi circle arcs either side of the knot). Draw whisker dots above each smile arc (about four is sufficient).
Either attach floppy ears made from card, or draw them on the dog. They look more effective if made from card though.
Cut out a length of string or cord. Tie onto the balloon knot. This becomes the puppy's leash.
Allow the kids to take the balloon puppy for a walk.
Method 2 Water balloon pet.
1. Fill a water balloon with water.
2. Tie off the balloon to keep the water intact.
3. Decorate the balloon.
Draw a face on it. Use markers. If you want to stick on googly eyes, do so.
Stick on hair if wished. You can use strands of yarn stuck on with craft glue. If you would like a bow in the hair, cut one from paper and glue on.
Draw on any clothing or accessory features, if relevant. For example, a tie, or necklace.
4. Finished. The water balloon pet can be played with for a while.
Method 3 Balloon stress relief pet.
1. Make a stress relief pet that will last a little longer than the other projects suggested in this article. This "pet" can be held in the palm of the hands and squeezed to reduce tension and exercise the hand muscles.
2. Choose a balloon color. Any color is fine, these "pets" can be all colors of the rainbow.
3. Stretch the open end of the balloon a bit. Stretch it back and forth to make the opening a little looser. This will help placing the filling inside.
4. Funnel in the filling for the balloon. This can be either sand or play dough, depending on your preference. Kids tend to like the play dough because it can be shaped into all sorts of funny configurations that keep their shape after molding.
5. Knot the balloon. Ensure that the sand or play dough do not come into the neck area of the balloon; if you have overfilled it, remove some of the filling, to allow you to tie a knot in the balloon.
6. Decorate the balloon pet. Draw eyes, a smile, a nose, freckles, etc. It's fun to let the kids do this for themselves, as they can style the face in their own way.
7. Add hair. This step is optional but can make the pet look funnier. Add small spikes of yarn to the knot end of the balloon; glue to attach. Keep these pieces short, so that they stand up.
8. Done. The balloon pet is now ready for play or stress relief.
Method 4 Balloon animal from balloon art.
1. Make a balloon pet using balloon art twisting techniques. There are many different animal shapes that you can make using this technique, allowing you to have a whole menagerie of balloon pets if wished.
Question : Mine is ugly. How do I make it pretty?
Answer : Experimenting with different faces and designs can help you to make this craft your own. If you're not happy with how it looks the first time, try making it again in a different color or with a different face. Remember, practice makes perfect!
Tips.
Dispose of used balloons thoughtfully. They should be encased inside your normal trash, so that animals cannot find the balloon remains and eat them. Balloons inside animals can kill if they get wrapped around internal organs or cause blockages.
Things You'll Need : Balloons, Markers, Decorative elements, Scissors and glue, Card, String or cord, Sand or play dough as filling.
This classic, goofy sock toy has been a favorite of children and adults for years. Making something this popular may sound like a daunting task, but it is actually quite easy. To make a sock monkey of your own, follow these steps.
Making the Legs.
Find two clean socks. The best ones will be ones with heels and toes in contrasting colors to the rest of the sock. One sock will be used to make the body, legs, and head, and the other will used to make the arms, tail, face, and ears.
These monkeys were traditionally made with “Rockford Red Heel Socks.” If you have striped socks, those work well, too. If your socks have cuffs, be sure to undo the seam carefully; the cuff length is needed for the length of the monkey.
Turn both socks inside-out.
Lay one sock with the heel flat down. You may have to flatten the sock against its natural crease to make this happen. If it's not cooperating, grab an iron and give it a quick once-over
Draw a center line on the sock from the toe to approximately one inch from the colored heel. This will become the split in the monkey’s legs. Again, note that the heel is actually hidden beneath the sock at this point, so you may have to flip it over briefly to double-check your positioning.
Erasable fabric marker works best for drawing. Make sure before you cut that your line is indeed on the halfway mark -- a monkey with one fat leg and one skinny leg is not a happy monkey.
With the sock still folded flat, sew up one side of your marked line and back down the other. Leave approximately 1/4 inch (.6 cm) between the line and each of your seams.
You can either use a sewing machine or sew by hand. If you're using a sewing machine, use your walking foot.
Cut along the line between your two seams. The monkey’s legs and colored feet will now be clearly visible.
Making the Body and Head
Turn the sock right-side out and stuff the entire thing. Polyfill stuffing is available at all craft supply stores. The upper half of the sock will become the torso and head.
The amount of stuffing is up to you. How firm do you want your monkey? If the sock is thin, you may want to err on the side of under stuffing, as overstuffing it may cause it to stretch.
Sew the head and/or hat. If your sock opening is the same color as the body of the sock, just make a nice rounded head and stitch it shut. If it is a contrasting color, you will need to decide if you want to cut it off (making a shorter body for the monkey) and make the head as usual or use the excess coloring as a "hat" by not stuffing the last inch or two and cinching the opening into a cone shape.
To make the head: Stitch around the neck with quarter inch stitches. Use sturdy thread such as embroidery floss. Pull the stitches snugly until you get the size neck you want and knot the ends. Round out the head area with stuffing as desired and stitch the top opening shut.
If you are making a hat, start working with the cuff. Gather the tip with large stitches and snug/cinch them closed. Fold the raw edges to the center and tuck inside. Then, stitch the opening closed. Winter ready!
Making the Arms, Tail, and Ears
Cut the second sock into sections as shown. Though the pattern is only drawn on the top, make sure to cut through both layers.
Fold both arm pieces in half lengthwise. Then sew up the open side in a gentle arc around the dark ends; the dark ends will become the paws and the opposites (open ends) are where the arm will be stuffed and then attached to the body.
Keep all of these sections open-ended. Make sure they're turned inside-out as you work! If they're not, all your seams will be very, very rough.
Fold the tailpiece in half lengthwise. Then sew up the open side and in a gentle arc around the dark end as you did with the arms; the dark end will become the tip of the tail and the opposite, open end is where the tail will be stuffed and attached to the body.
Fold each ear in half and cut across the crease. Then, sew in a gentle arc following the rounded sides, leaving the flat side open. The opening is where you will stuff each ear and then attach it to the body. Noticing a pattern?
If you'd like, you can then fold the ears again, forming a vertical line down the middle of the ear (giving it depth like a real ear has). Basically, pinch the edge you just sewed in and bring the two points together. Slip stitch the two sides together.
For now, do nothing with the muzzle (formerly the heel). That part's saved for later.
Flip the sewn pieces right-side out and stuff them. You should now have two arms, two ears, a tail, and an unsewn, unstuffed nose.
The tail may prove to be a bit of a problem. You could try to stuff it using regular polyfill stuffing and a pencil to poke it through, or you could use batting or part of an aquarium filter. Both the batting and the filter are a bit firmer and will create a more uniform-looking tail in the long run.
Attach the tail to the rump. Position it carefully and slip stitch it all the way around.
Attach the arms to either side of the body. You may want them a little higher than your natural inclination says; this will give your sock a more monkey-like posture.
Assembling the Face and Ears
Trim away the edges of the heel piece if necessary. Since this will form the muzzle, try to make sure the piece of fabric is uniform in color. Note that, since the outermost edges will be covered, you do not have to make them perfect.
Fold the bottom of the muzzle under and sew it to the bottom of the monkey's chin. Make sure no raw edges are visible along the bottom, but leave the top open for now.
Add stuffing to make the muzzle puff out. You may want to refer to existing images of sock monkeys as to how this should look. The best sock monkeys seem to have a muzzle that puffs out at nearly a 90º angle.
Fold the raw edge under and stitch the top edge to the face. The muzzle should take up a large amount of the area for the head -- don't worry about needing space for the rest of his features.
Go ahead, give your monkey a mouth! Along the toe line of the muzzle (which should be dead center) branch stitch in a contrasting color of thread.
If you'd like nostrils, simply embroider two small rectangles above the mouth about 1" (2.5 cm) apart.
Fold the raw edges of each ear to the inside and stitch them closed. Stitch the completed ears to the sides of the head. They should be in line with where the eyes will be, just above the muzzle. Make sure they stick out from the front!
Add button eyes. To give your monkey whites on the outside of his eyes, glue or sew the buttons onto a bit of white felt. Then, with thread of a contrasting color, sew on the felt just above the muzzle. You now have an adorable sock monkey!
For a non-demonic looking monkey, stick to black buttons. The size you need depends on the size of your monkey. And if you're giving it to a child, either avoid the buttons entirely or make sure they're sewn on really well !
Tips.
Important: when stuffing the sock monkey, use small pieces of stuffing. Using bigger pieces may be quicker, but the results aren't satisfying at all. The project will come out lumpy and, well, ugly. Smaller pieces leave a smooth finish. It may help to use the eraser end of a pencil to gently push stuffing into place.
To add personality to your monkey you can cut out a red heart and put it in your monkey's chest before you sew it up.
You can use fabric glue to add the eyes instead of sewing them on.
Further ideas.
Sew a tiny red vest for the monkey with buttons down the front to make him/her look like an organ grinder's monkey.
Embroider a mouth line on the nose or eyebrows for added expression.
Cinch elbows, knees, wrists and ankles for the monkey using the same technique as for the neck.
Add a pom pom to the hat for a winter monkey, or a flower to the hat for a spring monkey, etc.
Sew a fabric banana into the monkey's hand.
Sew a tiny red heart on the monkey's chest.
Knit a scarf for more winter fun.
If you don't have stuffing, you can use old pieces of t-shirts, crushed and dried flower petal, used dryer sheets, tissue paper, yarn, grass or rice.
If you don't have any buttons, you could use googly eyes instead.
Bright colored socks work well. Also spots and stripes are great.
Eyes can also be drawn onto your monkey. Embroidery is another option.
Warnings.
If you're giving the sock monkey to a child under three years old, don't use buttons for the eyes. If they come loose, they could end up in the child's mouth. Instead, embroider the eyes on, use child-safe doll/cat eyes, or use nontoxic fabric paint or markers to draw the eyes or use felt eyes.
Use only socks you have permission to cut up.
Scissors and needles are sharp. Be careful when using them.
Things You'll Need.
One pair of socks with contrasting colored heels and toes.
Stuffing.
Embroidery floss or yarn to match your sock.
Sewing supplies: needles, sewing machine, scissors, etc.
A bright pen/marker to copy the pattern onto the socks.
A bird's nest makes a wonderful mantelpiece decoration, and can make use of almost anything you find along a nature hike, or in your front yard. Wild birds usually prefer to make their own nests, but you can lure many species to your yard by leaving the right materials outside, or building a nesting box.
Method 1 Building a Decorative Nest.
1. Find long, flexible plant stems. These will form the main shape of the nest, and are much easier to work with than hard, short twigs. You can use straw, long grass, vines, willow fronds, bendy reeds, or seagrass found outdoors or at a garden supply store. Raffia is another good option, obtainable from a craft supply store.
If Mexican feather grass grows in your area, grab a clump of it and pull your hand upward to remove a handful of hairy seeds clinging together. Once you have enough seeds, clump them into a ball and make a nest shape by sticking your thumb into it.
2. Bend the stems into a loop. Grab a thick handful of the stems, and bend them into a U shape, adding more stems if necessary to form a full circle. Tie it in place using a piece of string or florist wire. If the plant stems have many little leaves, or if they're wiry and dry, you can even weave them together without using any attachment.
If tying the nest together is too hard, you can clip them temporarily in place while waiting for glue to dry. Don't use glue if you plan to keep the nest outdoors.
If your fresh-cut plants won't stay in position, try hanging up the bundle in a windy area to dry for 24 hours. Some plant stems are easier to bend when fresh, but grasses and straw benefit from drying.
3. Shape the rest of the nest. Grab a second, smaller handful of stems and shape it into a smaller loop. Wedge this inside the larger loop and push it downward to form the base of the loop. Depending on how well the stems fit together and how sturdy you want the nest to be, you may need to use a thread or glue to fasten the two loops together.
4. Decorate with scavenged materials. Real birds sometimes spend days collecting bits and pieces to build a nest. Hopefully you're a little faster, but you can still have fun gathering objects from nature or your craft boxes. Here are some ideas to get you started:
If you plan to leave the nest outside, only use materials found outdoors, and nothing that could hurt an animal.
Feathers and pieces of eggshell fit the theme. Be aware that collecting most wild feathers is illegal in the United States, but they are mostly harmless from a disease perspective.
Look for twigs, leaves, bark, and moss in interesting shapes and colors.
If the nest is for indoor decoration, you can use bits of string, colored paper shreds, and confetti.
5. Place eggs inside (optional). Finish your art project by placing eggs or fake eggs inside the nest. You can quickly add marbles or colorful pebbles, or hollow out real eggs, decorate them, or even carve them if you have the right tools.
Things You'll Need.
Any long, flexible bundle of stems, grass, or straw, String, florist's wire, or glue (recommended unless stems interweave easily).
Moss, bark, twigs, or other decorative materials, Eggs and egg-blowing materials (optional), Marbles, pebbles, or other "fake eggs" (optional).
Method 2 Attracting Wild Birds to Nearby Nests.
1. Look up the nesting habits of local birds. Find a local wildlife guide at a library or bookstore, or search online for information on local birds. Choose one or more species you want to attract, and look up their nesting habits to discover what shape and style of nest will be most effective.
If you live in North America, NestWatch is an excellent resource for nesting information, and one you can expand with your own data.
2. Leave nesting material in your yard. This is an easy way to attract birds, and might be worth it even if you end up building a full nest as well. If you managed to find specific nesting information, you'll know what materials to leave, but you can't go wrong with a few items from the following list, left in visible locations:
Rigid twigs (for platform nest species) and flexible ones (for cup nest species).
Yard clippings such as dry grass and straw, bits of bark and moss, dead leaves, etc.
Human or animal hair or fur (no longer than 6 inches / 15 centimeters).
Yarn or string.
Mud, spiderwebs, and/or caterpillar cocoons to help birds bind nesting materials together.
Never leave out materials that have come into contact with harsh chemicals, including dye, pesticides, or anti-flea treatments. Dryer lint and clothing rags are not recommended.
3. Provide a variety of plants. If you want to attract birds that make nests in existing holes, leave dead tree stumps and fallen logs in the yard. Living trees and bushes will attract more visible nests from other species, especially if the plants are native to your area. For best results, plant a "staircase" of grass or moss, flowering perennials, shrubs, and trees.
4. Build a nesting box. If there aren't obvious crevices or hollows in your yard, building a nesting box or birdhouse is a simple carpentry project. Make sure the birdhouse is constructed to match the size of the birds you want to attract, or the size of the birds you see flying near your home.
For a higher chance of success, follow birdhouse building instructions specific to common North American species.
Clean out the birdhouse regularly whenever birds are not nesting.
5. Make a bird's nest. Many birds prefer to make their own nest rather than move in to a ready-made one. Lining natural hollows with the nesting materials listed above may give a bird an attractive head start. If you want to make a different type of nest, such as a cup or platform nest, it's best to follow the specific habits of the bird species you want to attract. Each species tends to prefer certain materials.
Placement of the nest is also important. Many bird species hide their nest amidst thick branches, but some prefer more open branches, bushes, or open patches of ground. Look for more information on NestWatch, through online searches, or in a local bird nest identification guide.
Things You'll Need.
Any yard clippings, especially twigs and grasses, String or yarn, Mud, spiderwebs, or caterpillar cocoons.
Human hair or animal fur, Small amount of lumber and nails (to build a nesting box, if hollow logs not available).
Question : Where do you get all the supplies?
Answer : You can find the necessary items on the ground in a park or wooded area, perhaps even your back yard!
Question : How do I make the nest big?
Answer : You can use longer sticks that are pliable enough to bend. Just make sure not to break them.
Question : What if I live in the city?
Answer : If you live in the city and want to attract birds, put up bird feeders. Birds love cracked corn, nyjer seeds, black oil seeds, fruits, and millet. Just make sure to take measures to keep the squirrels out.
Question : Am I allowed to take care of a wild baby bird if its mother is away and it's storming outside?
Answer : No. Leave the baby bird alone. Its mother will come back for it. Wild animals can take care of each other and themselves, they very rarely need our help. The bird will be fine in the storm.
Question : How do I make a bottled nest box?
Answer : Just take a milk bottle (not glass) and make an opening in the body of the box. Then take a rope and make holes at the top and tie the rope to the holes. Make sure you make it tight.
Question : Can I hatch the eggs myself?
Answer : If it is a wild bird egg do not touch it. In the USA it is illegal to take care of wild birds.
Question : Can I look at the eggs when they have been laid?
Answer : You can take a peek, as long as the mother bird is not nearby. Make sure you don't touch the eggs, as you will leave a scent behind that the mother bird can detect.
Question : Are most bird nests made of straw, twigs, and mud?
Answer : Yes, that is what a typical bird nest is made of.
Question : What can I do about wild animals that eat the eggs?
Answer : It depends on the animal. For squirrels, you can't really do anything, but for other birds you can find a better spot to put the nesting box. You shouldn't worry too much, because the mother bird will protect it's young with her life.
Question : Can I make a bird nest from leftover grass from a lawn mower?
Answer : Lawn clippings are probably too short to make a decent nest. Maybe if you collect it and dry it out you can use a few pieces to line the nest.
Tips.
For a quick and easy nest, shred or cut a paper bag into thin strips. Line a bowl with a paper towel, arrange the strips over them, then glue the paper bag strips together and let dry into a nest shape.
It’s fine to take a look at the eggs, but be careful, because smart animals like coyotes can follow you to the nest. If you have no predators in the area, taking a look at the eggs will leave a scent, but birds don’t have a sense of smell.
Warnings.
If a wild bird moves in to your nest, don't disturb it or the surrounding area. Watch the nest from somewhere the bird can't see you, or you may scare the bird away or attract predators to the nest.
