One of the #1 things that people often say to me is, “I would love to make creative projects with my kids, but I’m just not crafty. I don’t even know where to start!” My reply is always, “Trust me, you do NOT need to consider yourself ‘crafty’ to start getting creative with your children!” There are hundreds upon hundreds of craft projects that you can make with your children that require NO special skills or tools and that take less than half an hour of your time. In fact, most of these 50+ quick and easy kids craft project ideas that I’ve rounded up here actually take less than FIFTEEN minutes to make!
WHY CRAFT WITH YOUR KIDS?
A recent study by Dr. Richard Rende revealed that creative interaction between parents and young children engaging in activities like arts and crafts not only provides immediate and lasting cognitive benefits but also creates a unique bonding experience, which creates lifelong memories. Taking time to be creative with your children is a topic that I am incredibly passionate about. I know firsthand the benefits that children reap when they are exposed to arts and crafts activities, and in an age where arts are in a decline in the school systems, it is even more important than ever for parents to take the initiative to introduce art activities to their children.
Other key findings of Dr. Rende’s study showed that:
• Arts and crafts engage multiple brain areas simultaneously and
improve bilateral coordination between the left and right sides of
the brain, leading to immediate and future cognitive development.
• Activities like arts and crafts accelerate the development of muscles
in the hands and fingers, improving fine motor skills that are
essential for school success in the earliest formal years.
• Face-to-face interaction in the early years is critical for optimal
social development.
• Arts and crafts promote rich social interactions that help develop
language skills and social cognitive abilities like understanding
emotions.
• Creative activities are a great way to bond with children and create
lasting memories.
Nearly 90% of the parents surveyed for the study said that they would like to spend more time creating arts and crafts with their children, but they didn’t know where to start or how to carve out the time needed.
Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/
Note :
Acknowledgements
This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.
Every hobby has its learning curve, and embroidery is no exception. Avoiding mistakes can save you time, money and frustration.
Reviewing these top 20 common—and avoidable—embroidery mistakes, and you'll know what to avoid before starting your next embroidery project.
Not Reading the Instructions
Always read the instructions. Using the wrong thread or number of strands of embroidery floss is one of the most common errors that happens when you skip reading the instructions. With kits, this can lead to running out of thread before completing the project. It also may result in a different line thickness than intended.
Choosing the Wrong Embroidery Fabric
Most forms of surface embroidery require a firm fabric foundation, often with a thread count of 28 or higher. Using an embroidery fabric with a lower thread count can result in poorly-formed stitches, although you can add stabilizer to create a better surface. Counted Thread or Pulled Thread projects require a lower, looser thread count. This makes it easier to pull and remove threads and create lacy stitches.
Selecting the Wrong Size of Needle
Using an embroidery needle that is too large for the project can result in holes in the fabric where the needle and thread enter or exit.
Using a Sharp Needle Instead of a Ball-Point Needle
Use sharp needles when the needle and thread need to pierce the fabric, as in surface embroidery and crewel.
Starting and Ending a Thread With Knots
Although not the worst mistake ever, it's best to avoid knots in any type of embroidery project. Instead, start a new thread with a waste knot, away knot, or by weaving it into the back of previously worked stitches.
Selecting an Embroidery Thread of the Wrong Thickness
Generally, bold lines of embroidery require thicker embroidery threads and narrow lines require finer threads. Combine threads to make a thicker strand and separate floss into single strands or groups of strands for working thinner lines.
Using Craft Thread Rather Than Embroidery Thread
Inexpensive thread sold in packages as a “Craft Thread” (often 6-strand floss or #5 pearl cotton) are for craft projects such as friendship bracelets, macramé, or children’s crafts and not for embroidery.
Marking Your Fabric With a Regular Pen
It's best to use a water-soluble fabric marking pen, chalk pencil or fabric pencil to mark your embroidery design on your fabric.
Using Heat Transfer Pencils Instead of Water-Soluble Fabric Pencils
Transfer pencils and pens are great for making iron-on designs, but they are permanent.
Iron Transfers Are Fuzzy or Distorted
When using iron transfers (either that you purchased or made with a heat transfer pen), fuzzy markings result when you slide the iron back and forth on the pattern paper. Instead, press the iron on the back of the pattern paper just long enough to transfer the markings.
Not Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame
Using an embroidery hoop, scroll frame, or stretcher bars keeps the fabric taut and makes it easier to work accurate, well-formed stitches.
Rolling Fabric on a Scroll Frame in the Wrong Direction
Roll fabric on the bars of a scroll frame with the wrong sides of the fabric rolled to the outside (facing you).
Not Removing the Hoop Before Storing
Always remove your embroidery hoop before putting away your embroidery for the day, and especially before storing it for any length of time.
Not Enough Floss or Embroidery Thread When Starting
Before you start stitching, make sure you have all the necessary embroidery threads on-hand.
Getting Your Project Dirty
Always wash your hands before working on your embroidery project and avoid snacking while you stitch.
Improper Cleaning or Laundering for the Thread or Fabric Type
If an item requires laundering, check the fiber content of the fabric and thread before washing.
Ironing a Finished Embroidery Piece and Smashing the Stitching
You work hard to create beautiful works of art with delicate and dimensional stitching.
Storing Needlework Fabrics and Finished Pieces Incorrectly
Needlework is an investment of both time and materials. Properly caring for and storing your pieces helps avoid staining and fiber breakage, ensuring you get a lifetime of use from your items.
Displaying Needlework in Direct Sunlight
Many fabrics and threads used in embroidery like to promise that they are fade-resistant.
Rushing to Fix a Mistake
If you make a mistake and find yourself picking out stitching, do this carefully and slowly.
Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/
Note :
Acknowledgements
This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.
Adding a beautiful piece of art to a room is the last layer of decoration that every home needs. But a framed piece can be pricey. Instead of shelling out money for a print or painting, why not frame a gorgeous piece of fabric instead? Not only will fabric add color and pattern to a room, but it also lends personality. Plus, varying the textures in a gallery wall will add interest and depth to the space.
You can use a favorite piece of fabric that has been passed down in your family or simply a pattern that caught your eye at the fabric store. Either way, it's a great way to display a beautiful textile. Hang one of these prints on your wall as soon as possible! This is an easy project that takes less than an hour to complete.
Gather Your Materials
Small canvas
Fabric
Scissors
Hot glue
Iron
Cloth tape (optional)
Choose Your Fabric
Once you've selected your fabric, make sure it's large enough to fit around your canvas. While you can opt to use a more traditional picture frame, the canvas is a really easy way to complete this project while still showing off the texture of the fabric.
Cut the fabric to the size of the canvas, leaving at least 1 inch of extra fabric around all of the edges.
Note: If the fabric is vintage or heirloom, you can leave it as is. Don't cut or glue and simply pin it to the canvas instead.
Smooth the Fabric
If needed, gently iron the fabric to remove any deep creases. Then, stretch the fabric over the canvas and secure it using dabs of hot glue on the back frame of the canvas. You want to pull the fabric taut, but not so much so that it's going to release and look saggy when you're done gluing.
Attach the Fabric
If the fabric is delicate and you don't want to cut and glue it, put pins at each end and each side to secure it. Just be sure to pull the fabric taut as you go, so you don't end up with any weird wrinkles. If you aren't emotionally attached to the fabric, follow these steps to finish off the back of the frame.
There will be excess fabric at the top and bottom of the canvas, so to handle it in a way that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, you're going to want to fold and glue the fabric to the canvas in a similar way that you'd finish wrapping a present. It will look finished and pretty once you're done.
Find a Place for It
Place the canvas art wherever you'd like. Add it to the top of your bookshelf or hang it on the wall. If you easily grow tired of decor, the beauty of this project—if the fabric isn't an heirloom or vintage piece—is that you can simply rip it off the canvas and start over!
Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/
Note :
Acknowledgements
This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.
If you are looking for different surfaces to stamp onto then how about trying artist's canvases. These are great for making decor for the home and canvas blocks are all the rage right now. This is a project for stampers happy to experiment with different techniques to create interesting results.
What Are Artist's Canvases?
Artist's canvases are typically pieces of linen or cotton canvas on which artists paint. There are two types which are commonly used, canvas board or panels, where the canvas is stretched over a piece of board. This gives a firm flat surface for stamping.
The other type is stretched canvas. These are pieces of canvas that are stretched over a wooden frame which creates a taut surface. Canvases of either type are available in a wide range of sizes, from tiny canvases through to canvases that take up an entire wall. There are a variety of different qualities of canvas available and art stores will have the biggest range on offer.
About the Surface for Stamping
The canvas surface is woven and as such it is more textured than normal cardstock. This is one of the features of the canvas which makes it a little different and interesting to work on. Note that this texture will mean that some detail in a very intricate stamped image may get lost. You will also notice that some canvases are sold as primed, others are not primed. A primed surface means that it has been treated ready for painting. Both surfaces can be stamped on, however, the inks will be absorbed by the surface of the untreated canvas and may need heat sealing on treated canvas. It is best to experiment with both types and see which gives you the results you prefer.
Where to Buy
You will find stretch canvases for sale in artists supply stores. You will also find them in craft stores and even some stationery stores as well as online.
How to Use
While you can stamp onto canvas panels with relative ease, stamping on stretch canvas presents some significant challenges, not least the fact that the canvas surface, while taut, has some movement and therefore it is difficult to stamp onto in the traditional manner. However you can achieve good results by placing the inked stamp, image side up and carefully pressing the canvas, top side down, onto the stamp. Then carefully rub over the back of the canvas to make sure the inked image is transferred from the stamp to the canvas. To use this method, your stamp must be smaller than the recess at the back of the stretch canvas.
Ink for Stamping
Unlike stamping on canvas or fabric which is going to be worn or may need regular laundry care, canvas panels are purely decorative, therefore there is no need to use fabric ink when you stamp on canvas panels. The type of ink you use depends on the results you want to achieve, however, good thick pigment inks are a great choice although they may need sealing with a heat gun. Permanent ink such as Stazon and Ranger Archival inks are also a great choice.
Mistakes
While artist's canvases are more expensive than normal paper or cardstock, you don't need to worry that all is lost if you make a mistake. If you make a mistake, simply get some white acrylic paint and paint over the image. Leave the paint to dry and when it is dry, start again!
Visit us https://easycraftsideasforthehome.blogspot.com/
Note :
Acknowledgements
This presentation contains images that were used under a Creative Commons Licence. Please contact us if it yours. We will delete it.
Countries across the world craft objects, jewelry, furniture and more based on their own customs, culture and history. If you are interested in buying crafts from a country different from your own, then you have a number of options in your town and across the world. You may also choose to buy crafts from third world countries in order to support fair trade. Buying fair trade crafts helps to prevent low wages and unfair working conditions. There are some guidelines you should follow to ensure you are buying from a country that is benefiting from your purchase. You may need to do a little Internet research to ensure you are buying the crafts you prefer. Read on to find out how to buy crafts from third world countries.
Steps.
1. Research fair trade organizations. There are a number of non-profit companies that choose to keep consumers up to date about fair trade options. These include fairtraderesource.org, chfinternational.org, and fair trade organizations of specific countries, such as fta.org.au.
2. Decide if you want to buy crafts from a specific country. For example, you may admire the bamboo furniture from Malaysia or carvings from Africa. Search for a non-profit organization that tells you where to find shops that sell that country's goods.
For example, there is a Bangladesh cooperative that represents 60,000 artisans.
3. Go to eBay or Overstock. Both of these websites have acquired companies that previously sought to promote fair trade crafts. Ebay acquired World of Good, and you can buy handcrafted gifts from third world countries at worldofgood.ebay.com.
Overstock.com provides a fair trade site, called overstock.com/Worldstock-Fair-Trade. You can find anything from jewelry to furniture and more.
4. Search for local stores that specialize in fair trade crafts. Most mid to large-sized cities have a few fair trade stores. You can often find the stories behind the manufacturers of the crafts.
Ask the store how they acquired the crafts. The best way to tell if you are buying from a certified fair trade, third world craft carrier is to ask how the crafts were acquired.
5. Visit world craft museums, such as The Museum of Craft and Folk Art or the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco. These museums fill their gift shops with crafts that are well-crafted and distinctive. Check the museum websites for crafts that can be bought online.
6. Visit summer markets in your town. People who have emigrated from other countries often stock booths filled with their home country's crafts. Peruvian alpaca crafts are common at summer craft markets.
7. Visit a third world country and buy the crafts straight from the source. While this is the most expensive option, it is the best way to ensure you are buying straight from a craftsman. Research craft workshops where you can visit and buy directly after viewing the creation of the crafts.
For example, in St. Kitts there is a batik factory where the batiks are made and then sold. In Peru, you can visit an alpaca farm where yarn is created, died, woven and sold.
Colored salt is used for art and craft, for decoration, for teaching skills with writing or drawing, and for making rangoli for Diwali. It's easy to make, and depending on the exact items in your craft or kitchen cupboard, you might even be able to make it without buying a thing.
Coloring Salt with Paint.
Fill a container with salt. A jug or pitcher, a deep bowl, a plastic food container, etc. will all suffice.
Squeeze a little tempera paint into the salt.
Mix with a spoon or other item. Stir until the paint is evenly distributed through the salt.
Let stand overnight to dry.
Make as many more colors as you need for your project. That way, they'll all be ready at the same time.
Test before using. Check that the salt has dried before using in your craft, rangoli, teaching, etc. projects.
Coloring Salt with Liquid Food Coloring.
Use liquid food coloring for this method. Choose a color or colors that you wish to work with.
Tip the salt into a resealable bag.
Add the liquid food coloring to the salt. It's recommended that you do this gradually, a drop at a time, so that you can intensify the color as needed and stop when you're happy with it. The more drops added, the more intense the color.
Carefully press the air from the resealable bag without losing the salt. Seal. Wait for around a minute before proceeding, to give the salt time to settle.
Image titled Make Colored Salt Step 10
5
Press down on the bag again and again. This will move the coloring around all of the salt. Knead until you can see that the color has permeated all of the salt in the plastic bag.
Done. The salt is now ready for use. If you see any salt that is damp, let it dry before use, by allowing air into the bag and waiting a few hours more.
If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.
Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.
Coloring Salt with Gel Food Coloring.
For this method, use gel-based food coloring. You should find it dries instantly and won't leave any liquid, which may be the case with liquid food coloring.
Tip the salt into a resealable bag.
Add the gel food coloring. Transfer the gel using an implement such as a wooden or metallic skewer tip, the end of a butter knife or a toothpick. Only use a small amount at a time, adding a little more if you're not yet satisfied with the color. Gel coloring is fairly vibrant with just a little amount, so you don't want to overdo it.
Carefully press down on the bag to remove excess air. Seal tightly.
Shake or knead the color throughout the bag. Ensure that all of the salt is evenly colored.
Done. Given that this is gel, the colored salt should be ready to use immediately.
If not using it straight away, you can leave it stored in the sealed bag.
Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.
Coloring Salt with Chalk.
Choose a chalk color that you wish to use. Chalks come in a range of pastel and bright colors, depending on where you buy them from. Check art, craft or upmarket toy stores for a wider variety than you might find in traditional stationery or dollar stores.
Cover the workspace with a large sheet of paper.
Pour the salt onto the paper. The amount of salt depends on the amount you need.
Place the piece of chalk on its side, on the salt. Roll the chalk back and forth over the salt on the paper. As you do this, the color from the chalk will color the salt. Keep rolling until you're happy with the color.
Using the paper as a funnel, pour the chalk-colored salt into a resealable bag or a storage container.
Done. The colored salt is now ready to use, or you can store it until needed.
Repeat the process for as many colors as desired.
Tips.
A rolling pin can be used to distribute the color for the resealable bag color-distributing methods; ensure that there is no air in the bag and roll it up and down until the salt is evenly colored.
Keep colored salt in an airtight container when not in use. Make sure that the lid is on firmly, to prevent spilling it.
For a bath treat, add some essential oil drops as well as the colorant.
If making a lot of colored salt in varied colors, use clean food containers to free up the usual kitchen containers for your cooking and eating.
Warnings.
While these crafts are non-toxic, they are very messy. As such, they are best either supervised carefully or done by older children and adults.
Things You'll Need.
Salt (sea salt, rock salt, table salt, Epsom salts, etc. are all fine to use).
Container for holding salt or a resealable bag.
Colorant.
Stirring implement (such as a spoon, a skewer, a chopstick, etc.).
Artificial snow comes in handy for craft projects and when putting on a winter-themed event, such as a school play or the senior prom. Here are several methods for making fake snow that can top off art projects or enhance winter-themed events.
Method 1 Simple Fake Snow.
1. Tear up cotton. Take a cotton ball or cotton swab between your fingers and pull to stretch it out into wispy snow. Lay them out as a field of snow in craft projects, or reshape them into balls to make miniature snowmen.
2. Imitate falling snow with laundry soap flakes or instant potato flakes. Make a video of fluffy, falling snow by pouring this in front of the camera.
This also works as fallen snow. To make it more fancy, combine 4 cups (960mL) flakes, 1⅓ cup (320mL) liquid starch, several drops blue food coloring, and glitter.
3. Punch paper holes. Punch small holes from white paper and use the punched circles as snow. This works best when blown in front of a fan.
4. Add fake snow to snow globes. To refill a snow globe, pour in glycerine and small thermocol balls. You may use glitter or small beads instead of the thermocol.
5. Make a sparkly glaze for small craft projects. Mix ¼ cup (60mL) each of table salt and talcum powder. Spray the surface with spray-on craft glue or dab on white glue where you want the "snow" to stick. Sprinkle the sparkly mixture on the wet glue and allow to dry. Turn the project upside down to remove excess "snow."
6. Mix water with flour or baking soda. Start with white flour or baking soda. Add water one small spoonful at a time, mixing it up with a fork. Once you've formed a paste, cover the ground of a small winter scene. You can shape this into snowy hills and slopes with your hands. Sprinkle more flour over the top once finished.
Method 2 Realistic Fake Snow.
1. Combine sodium polyacrylate with water. Cut open a disposable diaper and remove the white granules; these are made from sodium polyacrylate. You can also buy it in powder or granulated form from the soil treatment section of a garden supply store. Powder makes fluffy "snow," while the granules create slushy "snow." Mix in water little by little until you obtain the desired consistency.
This may look more realistic if you put it in the freezer.
If it dries out, just add more water. If you want to keep it dry, reduce the amount of water and add salt.
2. Blend crushed ice and white paint. This melts quickly, so it will only work in a cold room. Pour the crushed ice in a big bowl, then stir in white paint. Add water slowly until the snow reaches the desired consistency.
3. Make salt crystals. With a cup of water and a string, you can grow your own salt crystals. The longer you hang the string in the water, the larger the crystals will be. Arrange these to form clumps of sparkly snow.
4. Paint the surface. You can use paint to make a surface look like it's been covered with snow. Dip an old brush into any type of white paint. Keep your thumb on the bristles, facing toward the surface. Rub the bristles gently to spray the paint onto the surface.
Don't use a nice new brush, since rubbing the bristles will damage them.
Tips.
To make a full winter scene, cover the base of a cardboard box with a flour and water "snow." Shape the snow into hills and valleys. Press a small mirror onto one of the valleys to make a pond, covering the edges with snow. Plant several twigs as trees, put the lid back on, and poke a viewing hole through the side of the box.
Continue tearing up cotton balls and gluing them down to make it look like fake snow and add a 3D effect.
The mouse has long been considered a delightful creature for the purposes of portrayal in art and craft. This walnut mouse is cute, easy-to-make and can be used for school fundraising or art projects.
Steps.
1. Trace the base of the walnut half onto cardboard. Draw around it again to make your template.
2. Place the cardboard template on a scrap of fabric. Trace out the fabric following this template, and allow for an additional 1 centimeter (0.4 in). Cut out the shape.
3. To attach the fabric to the base of the mouse:
Spread glue over the cardboard piece. Stick the piece of fabric to it, keeping the 1 centimeter (0.4 in) edge around it.
Snip around this edge of the fabric at regular intervals, making tiny slits.
Glue all of the slits firmly around the cardboard, to create a neat edge. Leave to dry completely.
4. To attach the fabric/cardboard base to walnut mouse body:
Spread the glue around the bottom edge of the walnut.
Gently match the cardboard side to the glue walnut edges, fabric side facing outward. Glue the fabric cardboard base to the walnut, slit edges facing into the walnut.
As you attach the base, be sure to slip in the tail and sandwich it between the cardboard base and one end of the walnut base.
Allow to dry.
5. Create the mouse face. For the face:
Cut out two small triangles from the felt for ears. Fold each triangle in half and glue at the base. Then glue either side of the walnut where you've decided the head is.
Glue the goggle eyes where the eyes should be (below the ears).
Glue on a nose. Either glue a small bead on the tip or roll up a small ball of cotton thread and glue in place.
6. To finish off, tie a tiny bow on the end of the mouse's tail. If this proves too difficult, make a bow and glue it in place.
7. Allow to dry before placing mouse on display. If you like the look of this mouse, make it a companion or two.
Tips.
This is a great craft fair, fete or gala toy to make for elementary age children.
A magnet can be glued to the back of this for an easy fridge magnet.
Warnings.
Not suitable as a toy for children under three or for pets, owing to small pieces.
Nut toys may not be suitable for those with severe nut allergies.
Things You'll Need.
Walnut shells, halved (one half per mouse), Small scraps of fabric, Small scraps of cardboard.
Fibre fill (or use scraps), Small ribbon, Goggle eyes (self adhering or glue on), Felt scraps.
String or ribbon (for tail), Tiny item for nose, such as bead, rolled up cotton, Glue.
Flowers are colorful and inviting, but sometimes the planters they're in can be a bit drab. If you want to spice up your home or garden, decorate your flower pots with paint, decoupage, or intricate mosaics. A chic planter can totally tie together your decor and show your personality!
1. Clean your flower pot. No matter what material your flower pot is made from, make sure the areas you want to paint are clean. Use soap and water if there is any lingering dirt or dust. A spotless surface will help your painting last.
Remove any stickers or price tags.
If you’re painting a terracotta pot, soak it in water for a few hours first. Scrub the entire thing with a stiff brush to get rid of dust or dirt. Wait 24 hours before painting, as terracotta is porous and will stay wet for a long time.
Allow your flower pot to dry completely before painting.
2. Choose acrylic paints in the colors of your choice. The color possibilities are pretty much endless, but make sure you use acrylic paints. Acrylic dries extremely quickly and is water-resistant when dry. It works on terracotta, clay, plastic, and ceramic.
Use spray paint or liquid paint, as long as it's acrylic. Spray paint is a faster option, but liquid will allow you to use brushes and get a detailed design.
If your planter will be staying outside, you can use an outdoor paint meant for withstanding weather.
3. Plan out your design. Take a look at your pot and decide what look you're going for. If your planter is going to be inside, think about what might look good with the color of your walls or floor. If it's going to be outside, think about what colors might pop in your yard or garden.
Use tape to segment off sections if you only want to paint certain parts.
Add words to label herb plants to offer little motivational phrases.
A pure white flower pot is a sleek, modern option.
Use stencils to creative intricate shapes.
4. Paint the first coat. There are no limits to what you can paint onto your flower pots, so let your creative juices flow! Use a large foam brush to put down a base coat. Choose a single color so you have a simple canvas to decorate further.
Put down newspaper or towels and wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty.
If you want to leave half of your pot unpainted, tape off that section.
5. Let your flower pot dry. A dry base coat will make sure the next application won't smudge or run. Be patient!
If you want a solid, single-color flower pot, it might be done already!
6. Apply a second layer of paint. Use foam brushes of all sizes to complete the look. Reapply the base coat if you want a more vivid color, otherwise go ahead and create your piece of art. Use whatever stencils, brushes, sponges, or freehand techniques you want.
7. Apply a clear sealer once your design is dry. When you’re happy with your new piece of art, it’s time to make sure everything stays in place. To prevent fading or chipping, apply at least two layers of clear, water based acrylic sealer. Get an acrylic sealer from your local craft store.
It may take a few days for the paint to dry if you used several coats of paint.
Using spray sealer is recommended, but you can also get cans of varnish and paint in on. This might leave brushstrokes behind.
Choose a matte or shiny finish depending on what you like.
Once protected, a painted design can last for years!
Tips.
If you’re using a terracotta planter, you may want to coat the inside with a sealer to keep moisture from seeping through and damaging your decorations.
If you don’t like how your paint job turned out, just paint over it!
Make sure everything is dry before you fill your flowerpot with dirt and a plant.
Warnings.
Wear gloves and safety glasses when shattering tiling or glass.
Protect your floor or tabletop from paint and glue with newspapers.
Things You'll Need.
Painting Your Flower Pot.
Clean flower pot.
Acrylic paints of assorted colors, spray or liquid.
Bird houses can be as plain or as ornate as houses for people, but, as a subject for an art work, they are a lot less intimidating. While we enjoy seeing and thinking about homes for birds, we might live where it is impractical to install an actual bird house. The solution is to paint a picture of bird houses. Because of its simplicity, this project is virtually fail proof, even for a non-artist. So, go ahead, tackle architecture, but begin on a bird's scale.
Steps.
1. Cut a rectangle of 140 lb. cold pressed watercolor paper and draw a pencil line 2" (5cm) up from the bottom edge to create a base for the houses to stand on. Later, you can paint this to represent a limb of a tree or a platform.
2. Draw a simple house starting with a square 3½ in (10cm) on a side, in pencil to represent the body of the house. To construct a slanted roof, the center point (1¾", 5cm) and draw a line upward a few inches. Close the roof by dropping two lines from the center point to each side of the house.
3. Alternatively, trace a miniature wooden birdhouse purchased from the craft or discount store. Simply place the house on your paper, back down and draw around it in pencil.
4. Repeat drawing houses until you have four in a row. Allow a slight space between them. Arrange them according to your taste, varying sizes and shapes.
5. Add details to each house such as entry holes for the birds, a picket fence, shingles, siding, or anything you wish. Go to the internet to look for ideas.
6. Embellish the houses with vines, flowers, leafs, beds, berries, tree branches, etc. Use the vines as a device to intertwine and connect the houses and it will lead the viewer's eye through the composition.
7. Put a bird or two in the picture. Draw one from your imagination or go online for pictures of birds. Put them standing still or in motion, flying into the picture.
8. Prepare your watercolors by adding water to each pad if you are using pan paints. If you are using tube paints, set up your palette with primary, secondary and neutral colors. Remember to leave the center part of the palette open for mixing colors.
9. Set out brushes, a ½" (1cm) flat for big areas, and some pointed ones in various sizes.
10. Begin painting by pulling a color for the body of the house, diluting it with clear water and making a puddle large enough to cover the area you wish to fill.
Repeat the process with a different color for each house.
Paint the houses, the area beneath the houses, and the sky.
Allow the paper to dry before attempting to paint over it or the colors will run into one another. Use a hairdryer to hasten the process, if desired.
11. When dry, paint the greenery, flowers, birds, sun and any other touches you can think of.
How to Make a Tweeting Bird in a Cage from Plastic Straws.
Tips.Try a technique called negative painting for a white object, such as a picket fence or a daisy. You simply paint around the object, keeping the white paper as your white color. Use a small, pointed brush and dip from the puddle on your palette that is the color the flower or fence is standing against.
Dry the paint before attempting to add a new layer.
If tiny hairs get in the paint from the brush, allow the area to dry and brush the hairs away. If you try to pick them off with your fingers, you will mar your wash and leave finger marks.
Creating clay animals is so much fun and makes a perfect hobby or training exercise for budding artists. You can use clay to make any animal or object you can think of or imagine, but this article focuses on a clay cat.
Steps.
1. Gather clay, tools, and some big black beads. Get the clay colors that speak to you when you envision the cat. Good choices might be brown, black, pink, red, and yellow clay. You will add interest by creating details with tools such as forks, plastic knives, garlic pressers, whatever your imagination brings forward. The varied textures and colors will make your creature eye-catching.
2. Start by rolling out a big piece of brown clay and forming it. This will be the body. Roll the brown clay in a big ball. Then squeeze the top sides a little to create an egg-shaped body.
To add more detail to the belly, flatten a piece of pink clay into an egg shape, a bit smaller than the body. Then stick it on body for the stomach.
3. Roll a ball of brown clay for the head. Use something to keep it in place, such as a toothpick, when you stick it on top of the body.
4. Make cheeks by flattening two small balls. Put them next to each other on the bottom of the head (not all the way at the bottom). Add a very small ball under the cheeks in the middle.
5. Add the nose on top of the cheeks in the middle.
6. Add eyes using the black beads. You don't really need to make a mouth though because the snout forms the mouth.
7. Make small triangular-shaped ears and poke a small hole in them (not all the way through). Put some pink clay inside the holes and stick the ears on top of the head.
8. Drag a toothpick on the sides of the snout to make whiskers. You can also stick in string to make whiskers.
9. Make front legs. Bend a little at the front to make paws. Add claws by pushing a line down on each paw with a toothpick three times. Stick them on the front of the clay cat.
Do the same method with the legs, but stick them in the back.
Add pads on the arms and legs to add more detail, but you don't have to if you don't want to.
10. Add a tail on the back at the bottom.
11. Finished.
Question : I need more information, can someone help me?
Answer : Knows about Knitting Stitches, Crochet, Flower Arranging and Floral Art, and more. There are several types of clay available in craft stores. Sculpy clay needs to be baked to harden. Crayola air-dry clay comes in white that can be painted after shaping and drying. It does come in different colors, but does not come as a small multi-pack of different colors. Read the packaging for tips on how to use the clay.
Question : How do I make a clay mouse?
Answer : Make a ball, then cut it in half and add a tail and ears.
A balloon pet can be made in various ways, each making use of the balloon shape and then being decorated as you please. In each case, these little "companions" aren't meant to last long; they're just a fun toy or decoration for a short time.
Method 1 Blown up balloon pets.
1. Make a balloon pet using a blown-up balloon. There are lots of possibilities here, so this section will provide a few suggestions and you can experiment with your own as well.
2. Make a balloon dog. Choose a balloon in the color you'd like the dog to be, such as brown, white, black, grey or any other color.
Blow up the balloon with helium gas. Tie it into a knot, to keep the gas in place.
Draw floppy ear shapes onto two pieces of card. Color in (if needed), then cut these out. Attach using glue to each side of the balloon, at the non-knotted end.
Draw the face directly onto the balloon. Draw a kidney shape facing downward for the snout and draw a circle in the middle for the dog's nose. Draw large eyes above the snout and blacken them in.
Tie a string on the base. The dog balloon can now be played with or used as a party decoration.
3. Make a balloon fish. Choose an orange or yellow balloon for making the fish.
Blow up the balloon. You can use air or helium gas, whichever is easiest. Tie a knot in it, to keep the air in place.
Draw two fin shapes on orange or yellow card. Cut these out. Attach them with glue to the sides of the balloon, with the back of the fins facing toward the knotted end of the balloon.
Cut out a tail fin from the orange or yellow card. Glue over the knotted area of the balloon.
Stick on two large eyes made from card. Or, simply draw these on with markers.
The fish balloon is now ready for play or to be placed out as a decoration for a party.
4. Make a balloon puppy. This is a fun one for the kids to drag around with them, and is easier if you only have air rather than helium for filling the balloons.
Blow up the balloon. Tie a knot in it, to keep the air in place. (Air is best as it allows the balloon puppy to hover around the kid's feet as it is being walked.)
At the knot end of the balloon, create the dog's face. Draw a round nose just above the knot and blacken it in. Draw a smiling mouth (two semi circle arcs either side of the knot). Draw whisker dots above each smile arc (about four is sufficient).
Either attach floppy ears made from card, or draw them on the dog. They look more effective if made from card though.
Cut out a length of string or cord. Tie onto the balloon knot. This becomes the puppy's leash.
Allow the kids to take the balloon puppy for a walk.
Method 2 Water balloon pet.
1. Fill a water balloon with water.
2. Tie off the balloon to keep the water intact.
3. Decorate the balloon.
Draw a face on it. Use markers. If you want to stick on googly eyes, do so.
Stick on hair if wished. You can use strands of yarn stuck on with craft glue. If you would like a bow in the hair, cut one from paper and glue on.
Draw on any clothing or accessory features, if relevant. For example, a tie, or necklace.
4. Finished. The water balloon pet can be played with for a while.
Method 3 Balloon stress relief pet.
1. Make a stress relief pet that will last a little longer than the other projects suggested in this article. This "pet" can be held in the palm of the hands and squeezed to reduce tension and exercise the hand muscles.
2. Choose a balloon color. Any color is fine, these "pets" can be all colors of the rainbow.
3. Stretch the open end of the balloon a bit. Stretch it back and forth to make the opening a little looser. This will help placing the filling inside.
4. Funnel in the filling for the balloon. This can be either sand or play dough, depending on your preference. Kids tend to like the play dough because it can be shaped into all sorts of funny configurations that keep their shape after molding.
5. Knot the balloon. Ensure that the sand or play dough do not come into the neck area of the balloon; if you have overfilled it, remove some of the filling, to allow you to tie a knot in the balloon.
6. Decorate the balloon pet. Draw eyes, a smile, a nose, freckles, etc. It's fun to let the kids do this for themselves, as they can style the face in their own way.
7. Add hair. This step is optional but can make the pet look funnier. Add small spikes of yarn to the knot end of the balloon; glue to attach. Keep these pieces short, so that they stand up.
8. Done. The balloon pet is now ready for play or stress relief.
Method 4 Balloon animal from balloon art.
1. Make a balloon pet using balloon art twisting techniques. There are many different animal shapes that you can make using this technique, allowing you to have a whole menagerie of balloon pets if wished.
Question : Mine is ugly. How do I make it pretty?
Answer : Experimenting with different faces and designs can help you to make this craft your own. If you're not happy with how it looks the first time, try making it again in a different color or with a different face. Remember, practice makes perfect!
Tips.
Dispose of used balloons thoughtfully. They should be encased inside your normal trash, so that animals cannot find the balloon remains and eat them. Balloons inside animals can kill if they get wrapped around internal organs or cause blockages.
Things You'll Need : Balloons, Markers, Decorative elements, Scissors and glue, Card, String or cord, Sand or play dough as filling.
Paper butterflies are not only dainty and chic, they're also fun to make. Try your hand at origami to create one or, if you're more of a crafting beginner, fold a simpler version with pretty pleats. When you're finished, use your butterflies as decor or give them to friends and family as gifts.
Method 1 Folding an Origami Butterfly.
1. Fold the paper in half, then open it and fold it in half the other way. Make sure to crease both of the folds. Line up the edges when you’re folding to ensure the crease is directly in the center.
If your paper is the same color or pattern on both sides, it doesn’t matter which side you start on. However, if one side is white, or the “backside,” begin with that side facing up.
Choosing the Perfect Paper for Your Butterfly
If you're a beginner, choose oversized origami paper. Bigger sheets are easier to work with.
For easy folding, use origami paper, because it is thinner than regular paper.
If you want to add visual interest, opt for textured paper like linen or felt cardstock.
For a dramatic accent, pick foil paper in a shimmery metallic.
2. Fold the paper in half diagonally, open it, and fold on the other diagonal. Bring 2 opposite corners together to create the folds. Press down firmly to create defined creases. Repeat on both diagonals. Open the paper to lie flat after you fold it.
Your 4 folds should intersect in the exact center of the paper.
3. Bring the right and left creases together, creating a triangle. With the paper laying flat in front of you, press the right horizontal crease to the left one. As you do this, the paper should collapse onto itself in a triangle shape along the diagonal creases you made.
Press down on the triangle to crease the paper once it’s collapsed.
If the paper isn’t folding properly, go back over your original creases again. If they aren’t defined enough, the paper will have trouble falling into the shape.
4. Fold the 2 top corners into the center. When you created the triangle shape, it made 2 layers. Grab the corners on the top layer and line up their edges with the crease in the middle of the triangle.
Try to align the corners with the crease perfectly so they aren’t overlapping or so there isn’t a large gap between the edges in the center.
5. Flip the triangle over and fold the bottom up, leaving a small tip showing. You aren’t folding it completely half. Instead you’re folding it about 1/3 up from the base of the triangle. Hold the fold in place gently with your hand.
Don’t crease the fold.
6. Bend the top layer of the tip over the base. There are 2 layers at the tip of the triangle. Peel the top 1 forward, folding it over the wide triangle bottom you’re currently holding in place. The tip will be the head of the butterfly.
Crease the fold that you make with the tip. This will help secure the body of the butterfly in place and prevent it from unraveling.
7. Pull down the pieces from the bottom layer to create the lower wings. With the top layer folded over, bring the bottom layer of the tip in the opposite direction. The points of the 2 triangular pieces should be facing down, away from the folded head.
It may help to hold the folded tip with your thumb while you pull the other pieces down so that the butterfly doesn’t come apart.
Re-crease the folded tip after you arrange the bottom pieces if necessary.
Trim the edges of the wings if you want a smaller butterfly.
Method 2 Making a Pleated Paper Butterfly.
1. Fold the square piece of paper in half, creasing it. Line up the edges of the paper when you fold it to make sure you’re creating a line directly down the middle. Press firmly with your fingernail to form the crease.
Use any type of paper you’d like, whether it’s origami paper, colorful cardstock, or even pretty gift wrap.
The size of your paper doesn’t matter, as long as it’s square. If you have a rectangular piece, simply trim it down so all of the edges are the same length.
2. Unfold the paper and cut along the crease line. Use your scissors to cut the piece of paper in half. The groove of the crease should help guide your scissors in a straight line through the paper.
Make sure your scissors are sharp so they don’t tear or crinkle the paper.
If you have trouble cutting in a line, hold your scissors against a straight edge, like a ruler, while you cut.
3. Make accordion folds with one of the pieces of the paper. Fold a small piece lengthwise, then flip the paper over to fold it back onto itself. Continue flipping the paper from side to side as you fold along the entire length of the paper. Think of this motion as similar to making a pleat or a fan.
You can make the folds as thick or as thin as you'd like.
Keep the folds all the same thickness, no matter what size you choose.
4. Take the other piece of paper you cut and fold it in half lengthwise. Place the 2 longer edges on top of each other. Then create a crease by pressing down along the fold.
Try to make the crease as straight and even as possible so it splits the paper directly in half.
5. Open it up and fold the 4 corners in toward the center crease line. Line up the edges straight along the crease. Your paper will now be in the shape of a hexagon, with 2 pointed ends formed by the folded corners.
Leave the corners folded. If they won’t stay in place, use a piece of double-sided tape or a little bit of glue under the flap.
6. Flip the paper over and make accordion folds on each side of the crease. Fold one half the paper in towards the center. Then repeat on the other side. This will be the top half of the butterfly’s wings.
Make the folds as large or as small as you’d like, depending on the size of your paper.
7. Bend both pieces of pleated paper in half. Press the pleats together and hold the paper between your thumb and forefinger. Carefully fold one end onto the other, creasing it firmly.[14]
The paper won’t stay folded, but that’s okay. You just want to make a crease, so the paper is in a V-shape.
8. Place 1 piece above the other and tie them together at the center. Arrange the 2 pieces so that they form a butterfly shape. Pinch them together while you tie string or cord around both pieces.[15]
To secure the 2 pieces together better, you can add a dab of craft glue or hot glue in the middle.
Having a friend hold the pieces together while you tie the string makes it easier to get a tight knot.
You can also use ribbon or a pipe cleaner instead of string.
9. Pull out the pleats to open up the wings. Scrunched-up folds don’t exactly resemble a beautiful butterfly. Gently pull the pleats apart so that the 2 pieces of paper look like 1 large wing on each side instead of 2 disjointed ones.[16]
Be careful not to rip the paper when you’re arranging the pleats.
Fun Ways to Use Your Butterflies
Hang them on a string or ribbon to drape as a whimsical garland in your room.
Glue the butterflies to a piece of paper or a canvas as 3D art.
Give them as gifts around the holidays.
Place them on a bookshelf or coffee table as decor.
A bird's nest makes a wonderful mantelpiece decoration, and can make use of almost anything you find along a nature hike, or in your front yard. Wild birds usually prefer to make their own nests, but you can lure many species to your yard by leaving the right materials outside, or building a nesting box.
Method 1 Building a Decorative Nest.
1. Find long, flexible plant stems. These will form the main shape of the nest, and are much easier to work with than hard, short twigs. You can use straw, long grass, vines, willow fronds, bendy reeds, or seagrass found outdoors or at a garden supply store. Raffia is another good option, obtainable from a craft supply store.
If Mexican feather grass grows in your area, grab a clump of it and pull your hand upward to remove a handful of hairy seeds clinging together. Once you have enough seeds, clump them into a ball and make a nest shape by sticking your thumb into it.
2. Bend the stems into a loop. Grab a thick handful of the stems, and bend them into a U shape, adding more stems if necessary to form a full circle. Tie it in place using a piece of string or florist wire. If the plant stems have many little leaves, or if they're wiry and dry, you can even weave them together without using any attachment.
If tying the nest together is too hard, you can clip them temporarily in place while waiting for glue to dry. Don't use glue if you plan to keep the nest outdoors.
If your fresh-cut plants won't stay in position, try hanging up the bundle in a windy area to dry for 24 hours. Some plant stems are easier to bend when fresh, but grasses and straw benefit from drying.
3. Shape the rest of the nest. Grab a second, smaller handful of stems and shape it into a smaller loop. Wedge this inside the larger loop and push it downward to form the base of the loop. Depending on how well the stems fit together and how sturdy you want the nest to be, you may need to use a thread or glue to fasten the two loops together.
4. Decorate with scavenged materials. Real birds sometimes spend days collecting bits and pieces to build a nest. Hopefully you're a little faster, but you can still have fun gathering objects from nature or your craft boxes. Here are some ideas to get you started:
If you plan to leave the nest outside, only use materials found outdoors, and nothing that could hurt an animal.
Feathers and pieces of eggshell fit the theme. Be aware that collecting most wild feathers is illegal in the United States, but they are mostly harmless from a disease perspective.
Look for twigs, leaves, bark, and moss in interesting shapes and colors.
If the nest is for indoor decoration, you can use bits of string, colored paper shreds, and confetti.
5. Place eggs inside (optional). Finish your art project by placing eggs or fake eggs inside the nest. You can quickly add marbles or colorful pebbles, or hollow out real eggs, decorate them, or even carve them if you have the right tools.
Things You'll Need.
Any long, flexible bundle of stems, grass, or straw, String, florist's wire, or glue (recommended unless stems interweave easily).
Moss, bark, twigs, or other decorative materials, Eggs and egg-blowing materials (optional), Marbles, pebbles, or other "fake eggs" (optional).
Method 2 Attracting Wild Birds to Nearby Nests.
1. Look up the nesting habits of local birds. Find a local wildlife guide at a library or bookstore, or search online for information on local birds. Choose one or more species you want to attract, and look up their nesting habits to discover what shape and style of nest will be most effective.
If you live in North America, NestWatch is an excellent resource for nesting information, and one you can expand with your own data.
2. Leave nesting material in your yard. This is an easy way to attract birds, and might be worth it even if you end up building a full nest as well. If you managed to find specific nesting information, you'll know what materials to leave, but you can't go wrong with a few items from the following list, left in visible locations:
Rigid twigs (for platform nest species) and flexible ones (for cup nest species).
Yard clippings such as dry grass and straw, bits of bark and moss, dead leaves, etc.
Human or animal hair or fur (no longer than 6 inches / 15 centimeters).
Yarn or string.
Mud, spiderwebs, and/or caterpillar cocoons to help birds bind nesting materials together.
Never leave out materials that have come into contact with harsh chemicals, including dye, pesticides, or anti-flea treatments. Dryer lint and clothing rags are not recommended.
3. Provide a variety of plants. If you want to attract birds that make nests in existing holes, leave dead tree stumps and fallen logs in the yard. Living trees and bushes will attract more visible nests from other species, especially if the plants are native to your area. For best results, plant a "staircase" of grass or moss, flowering perennials, shrubs, and trees.
4. Build a nesting box. If there aren't obvious crevices or hollows in your yard, building a nesting box or birdhouse is a simple carpentry project. Make sure the birdhouse is constructed to match the size of the birds you want to attract, or the size of the birds you see flying near your home.
For a higher chance of success, follow birdhouse building instructions specific to common North American species.
Clean out the birdhouse regularly whenever birds are not nesting.
5. Make a bird's nest. Many birds prefer to make their own nest rather than move in to a ready-made one. Lining natural hollows with the nesting materials listed above may give a bird an attractive head start. If you want to make a different type of nest, such as a cup or platform nest, it's best to follow the specific habits of the bird species you want to attract. Each species tends to prefer certain materials.
Placement of the nest is also important. Many bird species hide their nest amidst thick branches, but some prefer more open branches, bushes, or open patches of ground. Look for more information on NestWatch, through online searches, or in a local bird nest identification guide.
Things You'll Need.
Any yard clippings, especially twigs and grasses, String or yarn, Mud, spiderwebs, or caterpillar cocoons.
Human hair or animal fur, Small amount of lumber and nails (to build a nesting box, if hollow logs not available).
Question : Where do you get all the supplies?
Answer : You can find the necessary items on the ground in a park or wooded area, perhaps even your back yard!
Question : How do I make the nest big?
Answer : You can use longer sticks that are pliable enough to bend. Just make sure not to break them.
Question : What if I live in the city?
Answer : If you live in the city and want to attract birds, put up bird feeders. Birds love cracked corn, nyjer seeds, black oil seeds, fruits, and millet. Just make sure to take measures to keep the squirrels out.
Question : Am I allowed to take care of a wild baby bird if its mother is away and it's storming outside?
Answer : No. Leave the baby bird alone. Its mother will come back for it. Wild animals can take care of each other and themselves, they very rarely need our help. The bird will be fine in the storm.
Question : How do I make a bottled nest box?
Answer : Just take a milk bottle (not glass) and make an opening in the body of the box. Then take a rope and make holes at the top and tie the rope to the holes. Make sure you make it tight.
Question : Can I hatch the eggs myself?
Answer : If it is a wild bird egg do not touch it. In the USA it is illegal to take care of wild birds.
Question : Can I look at the eggs when they have been laid?
Answer : You can take a peek, as long as the mother bird is not nearby. Make sure you don't touch the eggs, as you will leave a scent behind that the mother bird can detect.
Question : Are most bird nests made of straw, twigs, and mud?
Answer : Yes, that is what a typical bird nest is made of.
Question : What can I do about wild animals that eat the eggs?
Answer : It depends on the animal. For squirrels, you can't really do anything, but for other birds you can find a better spot to put the nesting box. You shouldn't worry too much, because the mother bird will protect it's young with her life.
Question : Can I make a bird nest from leftover grass from a lawn mower?
Answer : Lawn clippings are probably too short to make a decent nest. Maybe if you collect it and dry it out you can use a few pieces to line the nest.
Tips.
For a quick and easy nest, shred or cut a paper bag into thin strips. Line a bowl with a paper towel, arrange the strips over them, then glue the paper bag strips together and let dry into a nest shape.
It’s fine to take a look at the eggs, but be careful, because smart animals like coyotes can follow you to the nest. If you have no predators in the area, taking a look at the eggs will leave a scent, but birds don’t have a sense of smell.
Warnings.
If a wild bird moves in to your nest, don't disturb it or the surrounding area. Watch the nest from somewhere the bird can't see you, or you may scare the bird away or attract predators to the nest.
