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How to Build a Ballista.



If you like medieval weaponry capable of flinging arrows through the air, try building your own ballista. A ballista consists of a frame, a launch ramp with a slide, and a tensioned string. You can build all of these components with popsicle sticks, thread, and other basic supplies. Add a launch pin to create a small ballista that enables you fire bolts with a pull of a string.







Part 1 Assembling the Frame.



Drill holes through a pair of 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. Measure 1 in (2.5 cm) from the ends and mark the spots with a pencil. Before working on the sticks, lay down a piece of cardboard to protect your work surface from damage. Then, use a drill bit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter to create the holes.

The simplest way to create a ballista is with inexpensive popsicle sticks, available online, at craft supply store, and other areas.

If you wish to make a larger ballista, trying using larger pieces of wood or foam in place of the popsicle sticks.



Poke a second, smaller hole next to each of the bigger ones. Measure about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) along the stick’s length from one of the existing holes. Use a steel probe 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in diameter or a similar sharp tool to poke all the way through the wood. Position the hole so it’s slightly lower, closer to the edge of the stick, than the larger hole. Create a matching hole on the opposite end of the first stick and create corresponding holes on the second stick.

Each popsicle stick has 4 holes when you’re finished, a pair of holes on either end. The bigger holes are used to secure the ballista frame together, while the smaller holes are for the launcher.

To test the smaller holes, try squeezing a wood cocktail skewer through them. Get skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Widen the holes as needed to fit the skewers.



Cut a pair of wood blocks to 1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm). The easiest way to do this is to purchase wood crafting blocks. If you can’t find the exact size you need, cut the blocks to size with a crafting knife or another tool. Get blocks that are about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. Scrape away the excess wood until both blocks are the same size.

Shop online or visit a craft store to see what kind of wood blocks are available. You can use scrap wood if you wish, but crafting blocks are much smoother and easier to work with.

Be careful when using a crafting knife. The blocks are small, so it’s easy to slip while handling the blade. Work slowly to avoid potential accidents.

Image titled Build a Ballista Step 4

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Glue the blocks to the ends of the popsicle sticks. Heat up a hot glue gun loaded with a fresh stick of white glue. Spread a layer of glue over the ends of the 1 of the sticks, then lay the blocks on top of that. Align the longer ends of each block with the edges of the popsicle stick. Spread another layer of glue on top of the wood blocks to secure the second popsicle stick.

Make sure you align the holes in the popsicle sticks before gluing them in place. The holes need to be positioned evenly over one another in order for the ballista launch its arrows later.







Part 2 Building and Attaching the Launch Ramp.



Cut about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) off the end of another popsicle stick. Trim this new stick to size by measuring and slicing it apart with your craft knife. Another safe way to do this is by snapping the end off with scissors or wire cutters. Trim any stray wood fibers off the cut end so it looks smooth and even.

Cutting popsicle sticks can be tricky since they are pretty fragile. Work slowly, gradually deepening the cut you make. Bend the popsicle stick back and forth along the groove you cut to prevent it from splintering.

If you have experience with wood cutting, try using a fine saw blade like a band saw. Always wear earmuffs, eye goggles, and a dust mask while operating a saw.



Trim a pair of cocktail skewers to 5 1⁄2 in (14 cm) in length. Get some wood skewers about 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter. Measure and mark the skewers as needed with a ruler and pencil. Then, cut the skewers evenly on both ends to trim off the sharp points. The skewers need to be the same length as the popsicle stick you cut, so use it for comparison.

Wood skewers are available online in addition to some craft stores, general stores, and restaurant supply stores.

Cut the skewers by using a craft knife or by snapping the ends off with wire cutters.



Glue the skewers to the top of the popsicle stick. Place the skewers on the long edges of the popsicle stick you cut. Lay down a bead of glue from a hot glue gun to secure the skewers in place. Trim the ends of the skewers as needed to smooth them out and make them even with the ends of the stick.

Now you have a basic launch ramp. The skewers form a groove for you to load the ballista’s ammunition.



Secure the ramp to the center of the frame you built. Get your popsicle stick frame with the holes drilled in it. Turn the ramp over and spread some hot glue on the end of it. Then, secure it over the bottom popsicle stick in the frame. Put it as close to the center of the frame as possible, aligning the end of the ramp with the back edge of the frame.

Hot glue dries relatively quickly, so you don’t need to worry too much about the frame and ramp components coming apart. Set the pieces aside as needed for 10 to 20 minutes to give the glue a chance to solidify. It takes about 24 hours to fully cure.







Part 3 Creating the Launcher Mechanism.



Break a 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle stick into halves. Divide the stick evenly into halves about 2 1⁄4 in (5.7 cm) long. These sticks are smaller than the frame pieces and are part of the ballista’s launching system. Use a craft knife or wire cutters to split the stick across its width and then smooth out the cut end.

Purchase a separate bag of smaller popsicle sticks online or at a craft store. Alternatively, cut smaller pieces of wood boards or foam if you’re making the ballista with those materials.



Poke a hole 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each stick. Use a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-thick steel probe or a similar tool sold at craft stores. Make a single hole near the rounded end, leaving the cut end alone. Pierce all the way through the wood.



Pull pieces of string through the larger holes in the frame. Getting the string through the holes is tricky, so have a cocktail skewer nearby to push it through. Slide both ends of a string 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm) in diameter through the top hole, then through the respective hole in the bottom frame piece. Leave the string long enough to form small loops above and below the ballista frame.

Try using twine from a craft store for a strong material that isn’t likely to break when you’re having fun launching makeshift arrows.



Tie small skewers to the frame using the string loops. Cut a couple of wood skewers down to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length. Start with the top loop by placing a skewer inside of it and pulling the string tight. Then, tie the loose ends of the string into a knot with another skewer underneath it.

Lay the skewers flat against the frame pieces. Orient them so they’re perpendicular to the frame pieces. Then, tie the knots as tight as you can to hold the skewers in place.



Place the small popsicle sticks between the strings and tighten them. The popsicle sticks you cut earlier fit between the frame pieces. Slide about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of the cut ends of the sticks between the ropes. Then, twist the bottom skewers clockwise to tighten the string as much as possible.

When the small sticks are positioned correctly, you can move them back and forth without them sliding out of place. This is necessary for moving the ballista’s launcher to let arrows fly a long way.



Slide another skewer into each of the inner holes on the frame. Cut 2 more skewers to 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in length to fit those holes. Make them look nice and even like the other skewers before fitting them through the frame. Make sure the skewers go all the way through the respective holes on the top and bottom frame pieces.

Protect the strings by tying the ends to the bottoms of these skewers, if possible. If you do this, the skewers maintain the string’s tension, leading to much more impressive launches!



Tie a length of string between the launcher’s stick arms. Set the ballista so the back end is in front of you. Thread the 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string into the holes in the small popsicle sticks hanging from the ballista frame. Knot both ends of the string to secure it, then trim off the excess length.

The exact length of string you need to form the launcher depends on the material you used. Try threading the string through both holes before cutting it from the spool. Always cut it longer than you need so you can knot it tightly.







Part 4 Making the Slide and Supports.



Glue a block underneath the back end of the launch ramp. Get another 1.5 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood block. The block needs to be approximately the same width as the ramp in order to keep the ballista stable while you’re firing it. Set the ramp in the glue, aligning its back edge with the back end of the block.

Installing the block makes the ballista ramp slanted so it launches arrows higher into the air.



Cut grooves in a small block to create the ballista’s slider. Cut the grooves into a small piece of wood about 1.5 × 1 × 1⁄2 in (3.8 × 2.5 × 1.3 cm) in size. The launcher needs separate grooves in the front and back, both as thick as the string you used when tying the launcher arms together. Make the 2 grooves about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from either end. Use a crafting knife to scrape away the wood, making the grooves circular and about half as deep as the block.

Try making the slider out of a wood peg bought online or a craft store. If you use scrap wood, make sure it is solid and smooth so you can slide it along the ramp.



Create a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood cap to fit on top of the slider. Simply cut a smaller popsicle stick to the exact length and width as the slider. Cut the cap into a rectangle with no rounded edges. When you’re ready to install it, put the launcher string into the slider’s front groove. Spread some hot glue, then press the cap onto the top of the slider.

Test the cap out by putting it on the slider before you add the glue. Check that it’s big enough to cover the slider and pin the string in place.



Drill 45-degree angle holes in a block of wood. This block needs to be about 2 × 1 1⁄2 × 1⁄2 in (5.1 × 3.8 × 1.3 cm) longer than the one on the back end of the ballista. Position the holes about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the smaller sides of the block. Use a drill bit approximately 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide to drill diagonally towards the center of the block.

Drill all the way through the other side of the block. Keep the holes as even as possible to build a stable base for the ballista frame.



Fit wood dowels into the holes on the block. Use a pair of 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-thick dowels cut to about 4 in (10 cm) long. Slice them using a craft knife, wire cutters, or a saw if you have one. Then, put some hot glue on the ends of the dowels and push them as far into the holes as possible.

Look online or at a local craft supply store for the perfect dowels for your project.



Glue the block to the front side of the frame to stand the ballista up. Flip the block over and spread a thick bead of glue across its length. Lift up the front end of the ballista to stick the block to the bottom of the frame. After pressing the pieces firmly together, consider letting the glue dry for about 10 minutes.

If the block is wider than the frame, you could try whittling it down with a carving knife or craft knife. As long as your base is stable, doing this isn’t necessary, but it can make the ballista look a little neater.







Part 5 Completing the Firing Mechanism.



Glue long spacer pieces to the sides of the back block. Cut the spacer pieces so they are about 4 in × 1.5 in (10.2 cm × 3.8 cm) in size. Spread more hot glue, then press them against the block supporting the back end of the ramp. These parts are there to support the rest of the parts you need to add, so they don’t need to be pretty and can be longer than the block itself.

Make sure the spacer pieces stick out from underneath the ramp a little bit. The pieces that attach to them need to extend over the ramp or else you won’t be able to fire the ballista.



Cut 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) off the ends of a large popsicle stick. Measure and mark the length you need to cut on one of the 6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks. You need 2 of these pieces, so cut off both ends of the stick. Leave the rounded ends of the stick intact.

Cut the stick carefully with a craft knife, wire cutters, or saw. Work slowly to avoid splintering the wood and smooth out the edges as needed.



Make a hole about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the end of each piece. Create the holes by poking a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe or a similar sharp tool through the wood. Keep the holes along the center part of the wood. Make them as even as possible to ensure the ballista parts line up appropriately when you install them.



Glue the popsicle ends to the side pieces on the block. The sticks need to be near the tail end of the block. Also, position the sticks about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) up from the bottom edge of the block. Spread glue over the wood and press them onto the block to hold them in place.

Make sure the ends of the sticks extend over the ramp. The holes need to be about level with the top edge of the slider in order to string the launch rope through it.



Bend a metal rod to fit through the holes in the wood. Get a metal rod about 4 in (10 cm) long and about 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) in width to fit through the holes. Pull the launcher piece back and thread the rod through its second groove and the holes in the sticks. Then, use pliers to bend one end of the rod back over itself. The rod forms a launch pin that stays in place until you're ready to use it.

Test the pin by attempting to move it. If it feels loose, bend the end back on itself more to keep the pin in place. Leave the other end of the pin alone so it can slide out of the hole.



Tie a string to the end of the launch pin. Cut some 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string to complete the launching mechanism. Try trimming it to about 3 to 4 in (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in length. Knot the string a few times to the bent end of the launch pin to quickly pull it out when you wish to fire the ballista.

Keep the string at a comfortable length. If it is too long or short, you may have a hard time pulling out the pin in a quick, fluid motion.



Cut cocktail skewers to about 5 in (13 cm) for ammunition. Trim the pointed ends off of as many skewers as you wish to use. When you’re ready to use the ballista, put a single arrow on the chute after pulling the slide back. Yank the string to pull the metal pin out, causing the slide to spring forward, sending the arrow through the air.

Always cut the points off of the skewers to avoid accidents. Also, never shoot the arrows at others. They can hurt, especially from bigger launchers.







Tips.

Ballista arrows are reusable. Collect the arrows after you fire them to ensure you have a steady supply of ammunition.

Small ballista designs can be blown up to create big rigs capable of throwing arrows long distances. Many big ballistas use wood planks and thick rope like the kind available at hardware stores.



Warnings.

Firing a ballista can be dangerous. To be safe, clear an area outdoors and fire it when no one else is around.

If you choose to use a saw to cut components, follow proper safety procedures to avoid injuries. Always wear earmuffs, goggles, and a dust mask.



Things You’ll Need.

Ruler, Craft knife, Wire cutters or scissors.

6 in (15 cm)-long popsicle sticks, 4 1⁄2 in (11 cm) popsicle sticks.

1 1⁄2 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm) wood blocks, 7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-diameter wood skewers, 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-diameter wood dowels.

1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit, Drill.

1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) steel probe, Hot glue stick, Hot glue gun.

7⁄64 in (0.28 cm)-thick string, 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm)-diameter metal rod.
November 20, 2019


How to Make Bottle Penguins.

There are lots of ways to recycle plastic soda bottles, and turning them into adorable penguins is one of them. With a little bit of paint, time, and creativity, you can turn 2 plastic soda bottles into an adorable penguin. If you have a lot of plastic soda bottles then you can create an entire penguin family!

Part 1 Assembling the Base.

1. Find 2 plastic soda bottles. The large, 2-liter (67.2-oz) bottles will work the best for this, but you can use smaller soda bottles too. Look for the kind that have the 4 bumps on the bottom. These bumps will make the feet and the hat.

The color of the bottles does not matter. You will be painting it.

2. Remove the labels and wash the bottles. Peel the labels off first, then wash the bottles inside-out with soap and warm water. Be sure to remove all sticker residue. Dry the bottles with a towel.

Wipe the bottles down with rubbing alcohol as well. This will remove any oils that might keep the paint from sticking. Let the bottles dry; this should only take a few seconds.

3. Cut the bottles in half and recycle the top sections. A craft blade will work the best for this, but you can do it with a sharp pair of scissors too. Young children should be supervised during this step.

If the cut edge is jagged, cut it smoother with a pair of scissors.

For a smaller penguin, cut the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) off of the first bottle, and cut the second bottle in half. The shorter half will make the bottom.

4. Tuck 1 bottle inside the other to make a capsule. Turn the bottles so that the cut edges are facing one another. Slide the first bottle into the second bottle by about 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). If the bottles won't fit inside one another, cut a 1⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) slit into 1 of the bottles first; place this edge on the inside.

Make sure that the 4 bumps on the top and bottom of the capsule line up.

5. Glue the bottles together, if desired. If the bottles are loose, glue them together with tacky glue or super glue. Pull the bottles apart, and paint the inside rim of 1 bottle with glue. Slide it over the other bottle.

Hot glue is not recommended because it is too bulky.

Alternatively, you can keep the bottles loose, and use the penguin as a gift box.

Part 2 Painting the Penguin.

1. Paint the entire capsule black, then let it dry. Take the capsule outside or into a well-ventilated area. Set it down on a sheet of newspaper, then coat it with black spray paint. Let the paint dry for 15 to 20 minutes, then turn the capsule over. Spray paint the bottom and let it dry completely.

Hold the can 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) from the capsule, and spray using a side-to-side motion.

If the paint is too thin, let it dry completely, then apply another coat of paint.

If you don't have spray paint, paint the capsule using black acrylic craft paint and a paintbrush.

2. Paint the penguin's face and belly white, then allow them to dry. Use a pointed paintbrush and white acrylic craft paint to outline the white face and belly of the penguin. Fill your outline in using a flat paintbrush. Let the paint dry, then add another layer if the first layer is too thin. Let the second layer dry too, if you added it.

Look at pictures of real or cartoon penguins to get ideas for the placement of the white parts.

Make sure that 2 of the bumps on the base of the capsule line up with the bottom of the penguin's belly. These are its feet!

If you are making a smaller penguin, use the shorter half to make the bottom.

3. Give the penguin a widow's peak, if desired. Use a pointed brush and black acrylic craft paint to draw a V-shape at the top of the penguin's white face. Fill the V-shape in with black paint so that it blends in with the body. For an even nicer finish, made the sides of the V-shape curved so that it looks like Mickey Mouse's widow's peak. Let the paint dry before moving on.

4. Paint 2 eyes and a beak using acrylic craft paint. Use a yellow upside-down triangle for the beak, and 2 black dots for the eyes. For a more realistic beak, paint a yellow or orange circle, then draw a horizontal black line going through the middle.

Look at pictures of cartoon penguins to get ideas.

You can also hot glue 2 buttons or 2 googly eyes for the eyes.

If you don't have yellow paint, cut a triangle out of yellow paper, and glue that on instead.

Part 3 Adding Optional Details.

1. Give your penguin character with lashes, eyebrows, and/or blush. You don't have to do any of these, but they can really give your penguin personality. Use a very thin brush for the lashes and/or eyebrows, or a paint pen. Use a larger pointed brush to apply pink paint for the blush.

If you want to give your penguin visible yellow feet, paint the 2 bumps in the front (under the white bellow) with yellow acrylic craft paint.

2. Paint the top half of the bottle to turn it into a hat. The 4 bumps on top of your penguin's head can easily turn into a hat. Paint a line around the penguin's head, just above the eyes, then fill in everything above that line. Use whatever color you want.

If you have a molded line just below the bumps, you can use that as a guide instead.

3. Let the hat dry, then add some details. You can make the hat look more hat-like by painting or drawing some stripes or spots onto it. Use a thin, pointed paintbrush and acrylic craft paint in a contrasting color to do this. Let the paint dry when you are done.

Use a paint pen for thin stripes or small dots.

4. Glue a pompom to the top of the hat, if desired. You can make the pompom yourself out of yarn, or you can buy it from the kids section of a craft store. Hot glue the pompom to the top of the hat, right between all 4 bumps.

Choose a pompom color that matches the designs on your hat. If you did not add designs, then use a contrasting color instead.

5. Tie ribbon around the neck to make a scarf. Find some ribbon that goes well with the hat. Wrap the ribbon around the penguin's neck, then cross the left end over the right end. Bring the left end up through the gap, then tighten it. This is just like starting to tie a pair of shoes!

Glue both ends of the ribbon to the penguin so that they stay down.

If you are turning this into a gift box, make sure that you keep the ribbon below the seam.

You can also cut a long, skinny strip out of felt, and use that instead of ribbon. Cut fringes into each end for additional charm.

Question : How do we make the eyes?
Answer : Cut out two small black circles, and two slightly larger yellow circles. Glue the black circles onto the yellow circles, and glue those onto the white face.

Question : We don't have to remove the bottle cap?
Answer : If you have removed the cap, you will have to tape or otherwise plug the hole on the top to "sculpt" the rounded top of the head on, so it is not recommended to remove the cap. However, taping or a cork replacement can be used.

Question : Can I use a plastic bottle?
Answer : Yes, but it may be hard to paint.

Tips.

If you want your penguin to have a pointy hat, discard 1 of the bottom halves and keep 1 of the top halves. Use the top half as the hat.

Use paintbrushes made from sable or taklon bristles. Do not use boar bristle, horsehair, or camelhair.

Spray the penguin with varnish or sealer, if desired. Do this after you finish painting, but before you add pompoms and scarves.

You can spray the capsule with paint primer first to help the paint stick better.

If you are worried about the paint chipping, spray the capsule with paint primer before you start painting.

Warnings.

Use low-temp hot glue guns to avoid blisters and burns. Do not use high-temp hot glue guns.

Things You'll Need.

2 plastic soda bottles, Craft blade, Black spray paint, Acrylic craft paint (white, yellow, and black).

Acrylic craft paint, 2 contrasting colors, Flat and pointed paintbrushes, Ribbon or felt, Pompom, Hot glue, Tacky glue or super glue.
Januari 23, 2020


How to Make Pom Pom Sheep.

Whether you're looking to make a cute Easter decoration or just a fun craft to do with your kids, a pom pom sheep fits the bill. It's easy to make your own pom pom with just some yarn and a piece of cardboard, so you can customize your sheep to look exactly the way you want. Add a simple head made of craft foam and googly eyes and pipe cleaner legs, and you have an adorable farm animal to decorate your home.

Part 1 Creating the Pom Pom.

1. Cut out a piece of cardboard. To make the pom pom for the sheep, you’ll need a cardboard rectangle to wrap your yarn around. For a large sheep, cut a piece that’s 3-inches by 5-inches (8-cm by 13-cm). For small sheep, cut a piece that’s 3-inches by 2-inches (8-cm by 5-cm).

You can adjust the size of the cardboard to customize the size of sheep if you prefer.

After you cut the cardboard, it’s a good idea to wrap it in packing tape. That will allow the yarn to slide off it more easily when you’re finished making the pom pom.

2. Wrap the yarn around the cardboard. For the pom pom, you need fluffy white, cream, brown, or black yarn. Instead of cutting the yarn to a certain length, remove an end from the ball or skein and begin wrapping it around the cardboard widthwise. For a large sheep, wrap the yarn around the cardboard 120 times. For a small sheep, wrap the yarn around the cardboard 75 to 80 times.

Use one hand to hold the end of the yarn in place as you wrap it side by side in a single layer on the cardboard. Once you’ve covered the cardboard, start creating a second layer over the first. Continue working until you’ve wrapped the yarn around the suggested number of times.

While white, cream, brown, or black yarn offers the most realistic sheep look, you can substitute your favorite color yarn, such as pink or blue.

3. Bend the cardboard to slide off the yarn. When you’ve completely wrapped the cardboard with the yarn, use your fingers to bend the cardboard slightly widthwise to contract it. That makes it easier to carefully slide the yarn from the card.

Be gentle as you pull the yarn from the cardboard and make sure to hold it together so it stays together.

4. Tie twine around the middle of the yarn bundle. Once you’ve freed the yarn from the cardboard, use a piece of twine to secure the bundle in the middle. Tie the yarn as tightly as you can to ensure that it stays together.

If you don’t have twine, you can substitute a piece of yarn. However, twine is stronger than yarn so it usually does a better job of holding the pom pom together.

5. Cut the loops of the yarn to form the pom pom. When the yarn is securely tied with the twine, use a pair of scissors to cut the loops. This will create the pom pom shape for your sheep.

After you cut the loops, you may need to trim some pieces to get the look that you want for your sheep.

Part 2 Making the Head and Legs.

1. Draw the shape of the sheep’s head on craft foam and cut it out. To make the sheep’s face, you’ll need a piece of black craft foam. Use a pencil or pen to draw the shape of the sheep’s head, complete with ears, on the foam as a guide. Next, carefully cut the head out with a pair of scissors.

If you’re not comfortable drawing the sheep’s head freehand, you can find templates online at various craft websites, such as Dad Can Do .

The proper size for sheep’s head will depend on how large your pom pom is. It should fit on one end of the pom pom.

If you used dark yarn for the pom pom, use white craft foam for the head.

You can use a craft knife to cut out the head if you prefer.

2. Stick googly eyes on the head. Once you’ve cut out the sheep’s head, select two googly eyes that will fit on it side by side. Apply your favorite type of craft glue to the back of the eyes, and press them onto the foam head.

You can find googly eyes in a variety of sizes at the craft store.

Make sure to let the glue dry for at least 5 minutes, so you can be sure the eyes won’t fall off when you begin to assemble the sheep.

3. Fold two black pipe cleaners in half. For the sheep’s legs, you’ll need two black pipe cleaners that are approximately 4- to 5-inches (10- to 13-cm) long. Bend the pipe cleaner in half to create a “V” shape.

Part 3 Assembling the Sheep.

1. Glue the head to the front of the sheep. Add a dab of glue to the back of the sheep’s head that you’ve made. Carefully press it onto your pom pom, and hold it for 30 to 60 seconds to ensure that it is secure.

You can use any type of glue to secure that works on fabric to secure the head to the pom pom. However, you may have an easier time if you use a hot glue gun.

2. Thread the pipe cleaner front legs through the pom pom. Take one of the bent black pipe cleaners and push it through the pom pom on one side near the front. Make sure that the pipe cleaner is threaded through the yarn pom pom so it is secure.

Some thread may come loose when you thread the pipe cleaner through. You can trim any errant strands.

3. Press the second pipe cleaner through the back of the pom pom. After you’ve secured the pipe cleaner for the front legs, push the second one through the pom pom near the back. Pull it through to the other side to create the second set of legs.

Take care with your placement of the second pipe cleaner. You want to ensure that it’s far enough back from the first to provide proper balance for the sheep to stand.

4. Adjust the pipe cleaners to allow the sheep to stand. Once both pipe cleaners are threaded through the pom pom, bend the four ends to create feet that help the sheep stand. You may need to adjust the length of the pipe cleaners on each side to ensure that the sheep is balanced properly.

Tips.

You can use the same technique to create a create a pom pom bunny and/or chick to serve as Easter decorations.

This is a kid-friendly activity, but be sure to supervise their use of scissors and the hot glue gun.

Things You’ll Need.

Cardboard.

A ball or skein of fluffy yarn in white, cream, black, or brown.

Scissors.

Twine.

Black craft foam.

Two googly eyes.

Two black pipe cleaners.




Desember 01, 2019






How to Sewing an Insulated Lunch Bag.





There are lots of ways to make a homemade cooler using readily available insulating materials. Using a lidded box, foil, and recycled packaging materials, you can make a small, simple cooler. For a larger, more effective design, line a cardboard box with foam board. If you need something more portable, you could also sew an insulated lunch bag to keep items cold when you’re on the go.



Steps.



Select waterproofing, insulating, and outer materials. Use waterproof material for the innermost layer, insulating material for the middle layer, and a fabric you find attractive for the outer layer.

Laminated cotton, PUL lining, and vinyl are your best options for waterproof materials. If you want to stick with recycled materials, you could use a plastic tablecloth or a plastic shower curtain.

Thermal batting, which you can find at a craft or fabric store, is the best insulating material. If you're on a budget, you can recycle thin flexible foam or bubble wrap. Thin craft foam or packing foam might work, but the lunch bag will be stiffer.

Pick a durable, easy-to-clean material for the outer layer, like canvas or denim.



Make 3 rectangles made of each material. For each material, cut a 10 by 26 1⁄2 in (25 by 67 cm) rectangle. Then cut a pair of 6 1⁄2 by 10 in (17 by 25 cm) rectangles.

You should have 1 large and 2 smaller rectangles made of each of the 3 materials, or 9 total rectangles.



Baste the insulation to the outer fabric. Spread the outer fabric rectangles flat on your work surface. Spray a small of amount of fabric adhesive around the edges, corners, and center of the outer fabric, line up a corresponding piece of thermal batting over it, then press the fabric and batting together.

Repeat the steps to baste the other 2 sets of fabric and batting rectangles.

Look for spray adhesive online or at craft and fabric stores.

Spray basting is the easiest method of attaching the batting to the outer fabric. You could also hold them together by pinning them 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from the edges.



Pin 1 side panel of the outer material to the main section. Spread out the large rectangular section of basted outer material with the right side, or outer fabric, facing up. Then lay a smaller rectangle of basted outer material over the large rectangle with the right side down. Align the upper left edges of both rectangles, and pin together their left long edges.

Weave the pins into the fabric rectangles 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) from the edges.

Make sure the long and short sides of the rectangles are aligned. Position the rectangles so their short sides are at the top and bottom and the long sides are at the left and right.



Sew the pinned edges of the side and main panels. Stitch down the pinned sides of the panels 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the edges. Begin at the top corner and work your way down the long side. Stop 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) away from the bottom left corner of the side panel.

Use this 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) seam allowance, or the distance between the stitch line and the edge of the fabric, for all of this project’s stitches.



Pin the second side panel to the main body. Set the second panel over the main body with the outer fabric facing down. Align the upper right corners of the main panel and second side piece, and pin down their long sides on the right.



Stitch together the second side panel and main body. Sew along the pinned right edges of the main and side panels. Stop when you're 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) above the side panel's bottom right corner. The result should be a mirror image of the sewed left side panel.

Remember to use a seam allowance of 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm).



Pin the remaining edges to form a bag shape. Lift the left side panel up straight so it’s perpendicular to the main panel. Fold up the main panel to align its bottom left corner with the top right corner of the left side panel. Pin the panels together from the side panel’s top right corner to its bottom right corner.

Repeat the steps to line the right panel’s top left corner with the main panel’s bottom right corner.



Stitch along the pinned edges. Sew the left side panel to the main panel along the pinned edge. Stop 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the bottom edge of the side panel at its bottom right corner. Then sew the right side panel to the main panel along the pinned edges.

You should now have a rough bag shape with an open top and unstitched bottom. The long sides of both side panels should now be entirely stitched to the main panel.



Stitch around the bag’s base to flatten the bottom. Sew the bottoms of the side panels' short sides to the main panel. After sewing each short side, sew additional stitch lines down the bottom of the bag’s long sides to create a flat bottom.

All of the bag’s edges should now be stitched except for its top opening.



Repeat the process to create the waterproof lining. Lay a side panel of waterproof material over the large waterproof rectangle, and align their upper left corners. Stitch together the panels’ left sides, then stitch the right side of the other panel to the main body’s right side. Fold up the main body to bring its bottom corners to the side panels’ top corners, then stitch the edges to create a rough bag shape.

Finish by stitching around the bottom edges of the waterproof lining to flatten the bottom.



Slip the outer cover into the inner lining. Keep the inner lining right-side out, and turn the outer cover inside-out. Then slide the outer cover into the inner lining.

The two pieces should fit together snugly. Line up all 4 edges around the opening, and make sure the stitched edges of the side panels are aligned.



Sew around all 4 top edges. Pin or clip the top edges of the outer bag and liner. Stitch all around the top edge to attach the liner to the outer cover.

Again, use a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) seam allowance.

Overlap your beginning and ending stitches to help secure the thread.



Turn the cooler right-side out. With the outer and inner layers now attached, reach into the bag’s opening. Pull up the bottom, and flip all of the material right-side out.

The right side of the outer cover should now be visible from the outside. When you peek inside the cooler, you should be able to see the waterproof layer.



Add 1 more stitch line where the lining meets the outer fabric. Find the ditch, or the line where the waterproof liner meets the outer fabric. Stitch a line directly into the ditch all around the bag’s opening.

This last stitch will help stiffen the opening and hold the lining and outer fabric together.



Add Velcro or magnetic strips to close the bag. Use fabric adhesive or a hot glue gun to add Velcro, magnets, or snaps to the insides of the bag’s long edge. To close the bag, pinch the sides inward, then seal the Velcro, magnets, or snaps.

There you have it! Enjoy your new handmade insulated lunch bag!





Things You'll Need.

Insulated Lunch Bag.

1 yd (0.91 m) thermal batting.

1 yd (0.91 m) waterproof liner.

1 yd (0.91 m) outer fabric of your choice, such as canvas or denim.

Scissors or fabric shears.

Measuring stick.

Sewing machine.

Adhesive spray.

Thread.

Sewing pins.

Velcro, magnets, or snaps.
















November 12, 2019


How to Crochet a Kitty Eyeball Toy.

A toy that says "eye love my cat". This eyeball toy is easy to crochet and will prove very entertaining for your cat.

Skill level: Intermediate

Steps.

1. Note that the pattern is worked continuously without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

2. Commence crocheting. With black, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc.

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc.

3. Change to Iris Color.

Rnd 3. Sc in blo of first sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 4. Sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 5. Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 6. Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 36 sc.

4. Change to white.

Rnd 7. Sc in blo of first 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 42 sc.

Rnds 8 - 14. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 15. Dec 1 in first 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, *dec 1 in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, rep from * around. 36 sc.

Rnd 16. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 17. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 18. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 19.' Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around. 12 sc.

5. Stuff the toy.

6. Complete Rnd 20. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc in rnd. Do not finish off; 6 sc.

7. Finish. Ch 3. Keep the loop of yarn on the crochet hook and pull it taut. Do not remove the hook! Hold the three feathers flat against the ch-3 chain, with the tips of the feathers pointing toward the eyeball.

8. Tape the feathers around the ch-3 chain to keep them in place, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the stems of the feathers extending above the tape. Then, still keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, take the free end of the yarn and wrap it tightly around the stem of the feathers, covering the tape and working from top to bottom.

9. Fold the stems of the feathers down over the section that was just wrapped in yarn and tape in place again. Once again, keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, wrap the free end of yarn tightly around the tape, this time working from bottom to top.

10. When the entire taped section is wrapped in yarn, begin with the loop still left on the crochet hook and work 36 ch as usual. Then remove the crochet hook from the last chain and thread the loop through the holes in the jingle bells (you may need to pull the loop to make it long enough to thread through the bells, but take care not to rip out the entire ch-36 chain).

11. Reinsert the hook into the loop and sl st in the first ch of the ch-36. Finish off. Weave in all ends. If desired, brush a coat of non-toxic white craft glue around the wrapped, taped ends of the feathers to prevent unraveling. Allow to dry completely overnight.

12. Finished.

Tips.

Finished size: About 3 inches (7.6 cm) in diameter.


Abbreviations:

blo = back loops only, ch = chain, dec = decrease, ea = each, mm = millimeter, rep = repeat.

rnd = round, rnds = rounds, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, yd = yard.


Things You'll Need.

White: 120 yard (109.7 m) 4/worsted weight yarn.

Iris color: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Black: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook.

Two 3/4-inch jingle bells.

Three craft feathers.

Stitch markers, Yarn needle.

Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice.

Clear adhesive tape.

Non-toxic white craft glue (optional").


Desember 12, 2019


How to Crochet a Kitty Eyeball Toy.


A toy that says "eye love my cat". This eyeball toy is easy to crochet and will prove very entertaining for your cat.



Skill level: Intermediate



Steps.

1. Note that the pattern is worked continuously without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

2. Commence crocheting. With black, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc.

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc.

3. Change to Iris Color.

Rnd 3. Sc in blo of first sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 4. Sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 5. Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 6. Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 36 sc.

4. Change to white.

Rnd 7. Sc in blo of first 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc, *sc in blo of next 5 sc, 2 sc in blo of next sc; rep from * around. 42 sc.

Rnds 8 - 14. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 15. Dec 1 in first 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, *dec 1 in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, rep from * around. 36 sc.

Rnd 16. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, rep from * around. 30 sc.

Rnd 17. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around. 24 sc.

Rnd 18. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around. 18 sc.

Rnd 19.' Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, sc in next sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around. 12 sc.

5. Stuff the toy.

6. Complete Rnd 20. Dec 1 sc in first 2 sc, *dec 1 sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc in rnd. Do not finish off; 6 sc.

7. Finish. Ch 3. Keep the loop of yarn on the crochet hook and pull it taut. Do not remove the hook! Hold the three feathers flat against the ch-3 chain, with the tips of the feathers pointing toward the eyeball.

8. Tape the feathers around the ch-3 chain to keep them in place, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the stems of the feathers extending above the tape. Then, still keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, take the free end of the yarn and wrap it tightly around the stem of the feathers, covering the tape and working from top to bottom.

9. Fold the stems of the feathers down over the section that was just wrapped in yarn and tape in place again. Once again, keeping the loop of yarn on the crochet hook, wrap the free end of yarn tightly around the tape, this time working from bottom to top.

10. When the entire taped section is wrapped in yarn, begin with the loop still left on the crochet hook and work 36 ch as usual. Then remove the crochet hook from the last chain and thread the loop through the holes in the jingle bells (you may need to pull the loop to make it long enough to thread through the bells, but take care not to rip out the entire ch-36 chain).

11. Reinsert the hook into the loop and sl st in the first ch of the ch-36. Finish off. Weave in all ends. If desired, brush a coat of non-toxic white craft glue around the wrapped, taped ends of the feathers to prevent unraveling. Allow to dry completely overnight.

12. Finished.



Tips.

Finished size: About 3 inches (7.6 cm) in diameter.

Abbreviations.



blo = back loops only.

ch = chain.

dec = decrease.

ea = each.

mm = millimeter.

rep = repeat.

rnd = round.

rnds = rounds.

sc = single crochet.

sl st = slip stitch.

yd = yard.

Things You'll Need.

White: 120 yard (109.7 m) 4/worsted weight yarn.

Iris color: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Black: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn.

Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook.

Two 3/4-inch jingle bells.

Three craft feathers.

Stitch markers.

Yarn needle.

Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice.

Clear adhesive tape.

Non-toxic white craft glue (optional").


Februari 23, 2020


How to Making a Long-Necked 3D Dino.

With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.

Steps.

1. Fold and cut a plain white paper plate in half with scissors. Fold the plate in half first, then use the crease as a cutting guide. For best results, use the kind that's made from cardstock and has a frilled edge, rather than the kind that's made from thick cardboard with a rim.

Set aside 1 of the paper plate halves; this will make the body.

2. Cut a dino head, tail, and spikes from the other paper plate half. Draw the shapes on the second paper plate half (the other one will be the body), then cut them out. Make sure that the limbs are proportionate to the body. Don't worry about the feet; you will be using toilet paper rolls for that.

Make the spikes about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall and wide.

Make the tail about 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wide at the base, and about 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the paper plate.

If you don't know how to draw a dinosaur head, tail, or spikes, look at pictures of cartoon dinosaurs online or in coloring books.

Use the brim to make the neck, if desired. Cut it off first so that you get a C-shape, then cut it in half. Use 1 of these halves to make the neck.

3. Glue the cut shapes to the other paper plate half. The straight edge of the plate is the bottom of the dinosaur, while the curved side is the back. Glue the tail to 1 end and the neck and/or head to the other. If you made spikes, glue them down the dinosaur's back.

4. Use scissors to cut an empty toilet paper roll into thirds. Keep 2 of the segments and discard the third. This will give you rings that are a little over 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. If you don't have any empty toilet paper rolls, you can use an empty paper towel roll instead.

If you're using an empty paper towel roll, cut 2 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) segments from it.

5. Cut a set of slits into the top of each toilet paper ring. You will be sliding the dinosaur's body into these slits, so make sure that they are directly across from each other. The easiest way to do this would be to squish the rings in half, then cut a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) long slit into each one.

6. Slide the dinosaur into the slits. Take the first roll, and turn it so that 1 slit is facing the dinosaur's head and the other is facing its tail. Slide the bottom edge of the dinosaur's body into the slit. Repeat this process for the other leg.

Slide the legs apart until they are on opposite sides of the plate.

7. Paint the dinosaur, then let it dry. Acrylic craft paints will work great for this, but you can also use poster paint too! Use the same colors and patterns for both the front and back. How long it will take for the paint to dry depends on what you are using. Expect to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.

You can take the dinosaur's body off of its feet in order to paint it. Do the front first, let it dry, then do the back.

Don't forget to paint the eyes and mouth! Alternatively, you can glue on some googly eyes after the paint has dried.

Tips.

Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!

Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.

Things You'll Need.

White paper plate, Empty toilet paper roll, Scissors, Green acrylic paint or poster paint, Glue stick or white school glue.


Desember 25, 2019

How to Building a Papier-Mâché Dino.

With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish.

Steps.
1. Blow up a balloon, tear newspaper into strips, and make a papier-mâché paste. Blow up a balloon to your desired size. Next, tear some newspaper into narrow strips, about 1 by 3 in (2.5 by 7.6 cm). Lastly, prepare your preferred papier-mâché glue or paste.

The most popular papier-mâché paste is just 1 part water and 1 part PVA glue (white school glue).

Start with just 1 or 2 sheets of newspaper; you can always make more strips.

Don't cut the strips, or the edges will be too sharp and create creases. Tearing them will give you a smoother finish.

2. Dip the strips into the paste, then apply them to the balloon. Run each strip of newspaper between your fingers after dipping it in the paste; this will remove any excess glue. Make sure that the strips are all going in the same direction as you apply them.

Overlap the strips a little, such as by 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm).

Keep the balloon in a cup or bowl so that it doesn't roll around. You may have to let 1 side of the balloon dry first before doing the other.

Leave a coin-sized space at one end of the balloon exposed so that you can pop the balloon later.

3. Apply 2 more layers of papier-mâché. You probably don't need to use the glue for the second layer; the wet strips already adhered to the balloon should be enough for the new ones to stick to. If the balloon starts to get too soggy, however, let it dry a bit, then continue working.

Consider using white tissue paper for as a fourth and final layer. This will give you a smoother base and help the paint show up better.

If you choose to use tissue paper, then make sure that you tear it into 3 by 1 in (7.6 by 2.5 cm) strips as well.

4. Let the strips dry overnight, then pop and remove the balloon. You may have to wait even longer than that, depending on how dry or humid it is in your home. In fact, it would be a good idea to poke your finger under the papier-mâché; if it feels wet, give it a little more time.

This completes your dinosaur's body.

Don't worry about the hole left by the balloon. You'll end up covering it with the dinosaur's head or tail.

5. Tape paper towel roll segments to the balloon for legs. Turn the papier-mâché balloon on its side, then use masking tape to secure the legs to the bottom.

Don't use clear tape; it won't stick to the papier-mâché.

You can also just cut 2 empty toilet paper rolls in half and use those instead.

6. Use cardboard, paper towel tubes, and foil to make the other limbs. Scrunch up aluminum foil into a ball to make a head, and then use aluminum foil shaped into a cone for the tail. The size and shape for each depends on what type of dinosaur that you're making, so look at some reference pictures. Here are some more ideas to get you started.

Triceratops: cut a round, scalloped shape out of cardboard for the fan. Use foil to make the horns.

Stegosaurus: cut triangles out of cardboard for the fins.

Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: use a paper towel tube to make the neck.

7. Tape the pieces to the body with masking tape. Take 1 of your pieces, and hold it against the balloon where you want it to go. Secure it with strips of masking tape until the seam is completely hidden. Again, don't use clear tape, because it won't hold.

Triceratops: tape the fan to the balloon first, then add the head (you may have to use hot glue to secure it). Finish by sticking the horns to the head.

Stegosaurus: tape or hot glue the head to 1 side of the body and the tail to the other. Use strips of tape to add the fins down the back and tail.

Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: tape the head to the long neck first, then tape the head to the body. Add the tail to the other side of the body.

8. Cover the pieces and the seams with more papier-mâché. Start by applying strips of papier-mâché to the seams. After that, cover the shapes themselves. If the pieces feel unstable, add more papier-mâché to the seams.

You may have to tear more strips of newspaper and prepare more papier-mâché paste for this.

Consider making some smaller strips for sharp curves and tight corners.

If the hole from when you removed the balloon is still visible, cover it up with more papier-mâché.

9. Wait for everything to dry. How long it will take for your project to dry really depends on what the weather is like. Papier-mâché will dry a lot faster on a hot, dry, sunny day than on a cold, wet, day. Be patient!

10. Paint the dinosaur as desired, then let the paint dry. Acrylic craft paint will work just fine for this, but you can use poster paint too. You can use realistic colors for your dinosaur, like gray, brown, and green, or you can use fantasy colors, like pink, purple, and blue.

For a nicer finish, paint the dinosaur white first, then let the paint dry. This will give you a clean "canvas" to work on.

Don't forget to add eyes and a mouth. You can paint the eyes, or glue googly eyes on instead.

How long it will take for the paint to dry will depend on what type of paint you're using. Plan to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.

Tips.

Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!

Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.

Things You'll Need.

White school glue, Newspaper, Balloon, Cardboard, Aluminum foil, Empty toilet paper rolls, Masking tape, Acrylic paint or poster paint, Scissors.


Desember 25, 2019




How to Cut Tennis Balls.



Tennis balls can be used for more that just playing games. When they’re cut open, you can slide them onto furniture legs or walkers to protect your floors and move them around easier. If you cut a tennis ball in half, you can use the halves as massagers to help alleviate foot and back pain. Cutting a tennis ball is an easy process as long as you’re careful not to cut yourself!







Method 1 Cutting Tennis Balls for Furniture.



Hold the tennis ball firmly against a solid surface. Set the tennis ball on a surface that’s knife-safe, such as a cutting board. Grip the tennis ball in your non-dominant hand so the rounded edge of the seam faces up. Use your ring finger and pinky to support the back of the ball so it doesn’t roll away.

If you don’t feel comfortable holding the ball while you cut it, secure the ball in a vise grip.



Poke the blade of a utility knife through the middle of the ball. Hold the knife with your dominant hand so your index finger is along the top edge and pointing toward the blade. Carefully poke the end of your knife in between the seams until it breaks into the center of the ball.

Make sure the blade isn’t pointed toward your fingers or you could accidentally cut yourself if the knife slips.

You may also use a craft knife, but it may not be as strong as a utility knife.



Cut a 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) slit in the ball. Move your blade up and down to saw through the ball’s rubber. Make a straight horizontal cut parallel to the seams that’s about 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) long. When you’re finished with the cut, pull your knife out of the ball.

Don't make your slit any longer or else it could easily fall off of furniture legs.



Rotate the ball by 90 degrees and make another slit. Turn the ball so the slit you cut is vertical when you look at it. Press the tip of the knife 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) to the left of the first slit near its midpoint. Make a horizontal cut that crosses the first slit so it forms an X-shape. Once your second slit is 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) long, take your knife out.

Tip: If you find it difficult to make one continuous cut, start your knife in the center of the first slit and make a 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) perpendicular cut. Then, rotate the ball 180 degrees and make another 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) cut that lines up with the other.



Leave the ball near a window or well-ventilated area for 1 day to dry any moisture. Sometimes, tennis balls have a small amount of moisture inside them that could damage furniture legs. Set the ball on a windowsill so the cut faces down. Let the ball dry out for about 1 day before putting it on anything.

Once the ball doesn't have an odor, it's ready to use.







Method 2 Halving a Tennis Ball.



Trace a line around the circumference of the ball. Hold the ball steady on your work surface with your non-dominant hand. Draw a straight line in the direction you want to cut on top of the ball with a pen. Rotate the ball when you need to continue your line around its surface. Make sure the ends of your line meet so you know it’s straight.

If a pen doesn’t work on your tennis ball, use a marker. The marker line will be noticeable when you finish your cut.



Hold the ball from above against a hard surface. Set the ball on a cutting board or another surface where you can easily use a knife. Hold the ball with your non-dominant hand so all of your fingers are gripping it. Keep 3 fingers on the front of the ball, and support the back side with your pinky and thumb. Make sure your cut line is between your front and back fingers.

Imagine your hand is a claw so you’re only grabbing the ball with the ends of your fingers.



Start your cut with a serrated knife. Feed the blade of your knife underneath your hand so it’s between your front and back fingers. Use firm pressure as you saw back and forth along the cut line. Continue cutting until you’re halfway through the ball before removing your knife.

Stay attentive while you make your cut so you don’t accidentally hurt yourself.

Warning: This cut will dull your knives if you plan on cutting multiple tennis balls.



Rotate the ball to finish making your cut. Turn the ball by 90 degrees along the line you drew and hold it firmly again. Stick the blade of your knife into the cut you started and continue working along the line you drew. Keep rotating the ball by 90 degrees and cutting until it’s halved.

Turning the ball makes it easier to cut and helps ensure you’re halves are the same size.



Finished.





Warnings.

Never cut toward your fingers or else you may hurt yourself.



Things You’ll Need.

Cutting Tennis Balls for Furniture.

Cutting board.

Utility knife.

Halving a Tennis Ball.

Pen.

Cutting board.

Serrated knife.
November 18, 2019

How to Make a Dinosaur Tail.

A dinosaur tail can be used in a Halloween costume or be a new accessory for a dress-up game. Best of all, this fun, brightly-colored tail only takes 1-2 hours to make. If you’re familiar with a sewing machine, you can stitch your dinosaur tail together. For a quicker assembly, you can use hot glue. It only takes a few pieces of fabric and some fiber stuffing to take your child’s imagination to the next level!

Method 1 Creating a No-Sew Dinosaur Tail.
1. Cut a series of triangles into a long strip of fabric. Snip out a line of connected triangles from the strip. The total length of the strip should be 24 inches (61 cm) by 2 inches (5.1 cm). When you’re done, the felt should look like a miniature mountain range. Set this aside for later.
This strip will become the spikes of the dinosaur tail, so feel free to pick a bright, fun color!
When flattened, the fabric will look like a row of diamonds. This will be fixed later on when the spikes are folded and glued together.
Use fabric scissors for a quicker and smoother cut.
2. Trace the edge of a bowl onto the main fabric and cut it out. Flip over a bowl and trace its circumference onto the felt. The diameter of the bowl will be the width of your dinosaur tail, so make sure that it’s wide enough.
3. Cut out 2 strips of fabric for the waist straps and glue them in place. Use fabric scissors to cut 24 inches (61 cm) by 2 inches (5.1 cm) rectangular strips from the tail fabric. Then, fold in the edges lengthwise and glue them into place. Fold the fabric in half again and glue both sides together so the straps are less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick.
4. Crease and glue the line of fabric spikes together. Use short lines of hot glue to connect the folded spikes. Instead of looking like a row of diamonds, the felt will now look like a row of triangles.
5. Cut a large, curved triangle out of fabric to make the base of the tail. Measure out a curved triangle along the edge of a folded piece of fabric. You don’t have to use specific measurements, but make sure that the tail will fit around your circular piece.
6. Attach the spikes to the inner seam of the tail with hot glue. Use small lines of hot glue to connect the felt spikes with the outer edge of the tail. Apply glue on both sides of the spikes, as this piece will hold the tail together. Put pressure on the glued areas with your fingertips to secure the spiked tail into place.
Use additional glue at the pointy end of the tail to provide extra support.
Add extra glue as needed to connect the rest of the tail together.
7. Put fiber stuffing into the tail until it’s fully stuffed. Take a bag of fiber filling and stuff the tail completely. Place as much or as little stuffing as you would like inside.
Make sure that the pointy end of the tail is completely filled before continuing to stuff the rest.
8. Glue the waist straps and circular piece to the inside of the tail’s base. Take the waist strips and glue them on opposite ends of one another, using small lines of hot glue. These straps should be perpendicular to the line of spikes. Make sure that the circular base is glued snugly over the waist straps and is covering the end of the tail.
You can tie the waist straps together to secure the tail when your child wears it.

Method 2 Cutting and Sewing a Tail Shape.
1. Fold the fabric in half and mark 12 inches (30 cm) above the crease. Take 1 yard (0.91 m) of fabric and fold it in half horizontally. Use a tape measure (preferably non-mechanical) and mark 12 inches (30 cm) above your starting point on the fold. This indicates the height of your dinosaur tail.
Make sure that your measuring tape expands to at least 3 feet (0.91 m).
2. Make a second mark 24 inches (61 cm) down the fabric. Measure 24 inches (61 cm) from your starting point and mark the fabric. This 24 inches (61 cm) distance will serve as the length of your dinosaur tail.
Make sure that you have enough fabric for these measurements.
3. Make a third mark 2 inches (5.1 cm) above the second mark. Take your measuring tape and make a dot 2 inches (5.1 cm) above the second mark. This third measurement represents the pointy, bottom end of the tail.
4. Connect the 3 marks with a marker and cut out the tail shape. Use a fabric marker to sketch the line that connects these three points before removing the piece with scissors or a rotary cutter. Rotary cutters can be found at most craft stores, and provide a more even and exact cut along the edge of your fabric.
If you want to make your lines exact, use these measurements to sketch and cut a template out of cardboard beforehand.
5. Trace a plate on fabric twice to create 2 circles for the tail’s base. Place a ceramic plate onto the fabric and cut around it with scissors or a rotary cutter. Repeat this process so that you have 2 circles. The diameter of this circle will be the width of your dinosaur tail.
Use folded fabric if you want to cut 2 circles out at once.
6. Measure and cut out 2 pieces of fabric to create the waist straps. Use a measuring tape to mark and cut out 2 strips of fabric. The length should be 12 inches (30 cm), and the width should be 4 inches (10 cm).
These strips will help attach the dinosaur to a child’s waist.

Method 3 Adding the Spikes and Waist Straps.
1. Sketch a series of triangles onto a piece of felt using a fabric marker. Use a ruler or measuring tape to sketch a row of triangles onto the felt. Make the triangles, which will be the tail spikes, about 2 inches (5.1 cm) tall and 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide. Ensure that there’s 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) between each spike.
You can make the spikes bigger or smaller, depending on how you want the tail to look at the end.
You can also make individual triangular spikes.
2. Arrange the cut spikes on the edge of the tail fabric and pin them in place. Use fabric scissors to cut the spikes out of the felt. Begin constructing your dinosaur tail by positioning the trail of spikes between the folds of the base tail fabric. Pin the spikes so that they face inward, as you will be sewing the fabric from the inside out.
3. Use a sewing machine to attach the spikes to the main fabric. Feed the fabric through the machine to stitch the base tail fabric and spikes together. Go along the curved shape of the tail, leaving less than a 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) of space between the stitches and the fabric’s edge.
Pinch and tug on the fabric on the inside of the tail to pull the tail right side out.
Remember to remove the pins from the fabric as you sew.
4. Fold and pin the waist strap fabric at the ends before sewing the edges together. Crease the fabric along the center so that the short ends are touching, and use a few pins to secure the fabric in this position. Stitch the edges together lengthwise, but leave the shorter end open. Pinch the fabric on the inside of the stitching to pull the straps right side out.
You’ll be stitching the shorter, unsewn ends of the waist straps into the base of the tail.
5. Stitch the Velcro rectangles to the straps and attach the waist straps to the tail. Take a small rectangle of Velcro and place it on the sewn end of the waist strap before stitching it into place with a sewing machine. Then, take the unstitched ends of the waist straps and pin them to the inside of the tail. Make sure that the straps are placed perpendicular to the spikes before sewing them into place. Check to see that the strap is long enough to wrap around a child’s waist. Pin the straps onto the tail and sew them into place.
You can purchase Velcro at a craft store.
You can also sew Velcro by hand.
6. Pin the base circles along the edges and stitch together. Take the 2 base circles and secure them with pins along the edges. Make sure that the circles are centered against one another before you sew them together.
Leave at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of space to turn the circle right side out.
After sewing the edges together, pinch and tug at the inner fabric of the circle to make pull it right side out.
7. Fill the tail with stuffing until it has a firm shape. Take fiber filling and stuff the base of the tail. Use as much fiber as you need to completely fill the dinosaur tail.
You can buy fiber filling at a craft store. You may need more than one bag to fully stuff the tail.
8. Use a ladder stitch to close off the base and complete the tail. Tuck and fold the excess fabric into the tail before sewing it shut with a ladder stitch. This part can be completed by hand.
The ladder stitch helps all portions of stitching to look uniform.

Tips.
Iron your material beforehand to remove any wrinkles. Take an iron and apply heat to your fabric in long, even strokes. Loosely woven fabrics like cotton and linen are great options to make a dinosaur tail, or you can opt for satin if you want a shinier look. Check the care label on your fabric to ensure that it can be ironed before you proceed.
Things You’ll Need.
Creating a No-Sew Dinosaur Tail.
Fabric.
Felt.
Bowl.
Fabric marker.
Hot glue gun.
Hot glue sticks.
Scissors.
Cutting and Sewing a Tail Shape.
Fabric.
Measuring tape.
Fabric marker.
Scissors.
Rotary cutter (optional).
Plate.
Adding the Spikes and Waist Straps.
Felt.
Pins.
Sewing machine.
Scissors.
Small Velcro rectangles
Fiber stuffing.
Measuring tape.
Fabric marker.
Sewing needle.
Thread.
Maret 21, 2020




How to Paint Wood Crafts.



Many arts and craft stores sell blank wooden pieces that you can paint. While you can always paint them right away, there are a few steps that you can take to ensure a neater, longer-lasting finish. Sanding the piece first will get rid of any ridges, while priming it will help the paint stick on better. Adding a coat of sealer will protect all your hard work, and help it last for years to come.





Prepping the Wood.



Sand the surface of the object with 140 to 180-grit sandpaper. You can do this with a sanding sponge or with a piece of sandpaper; a sanding sponge will work the best on curved surfaces, however. Also, make sure that you are sanding with the grain of the wood, not across it.

Some wooden pieces from craft stores come pre-sanded. If the surface area is completely smooth, skip this step.



Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a special, sticky cloth intended for this purpose. You may find it alongside the sandpaper in the craft store or in the hardware store. If you can't find a tack cloth anywhere, try a damp cloth instead.

It would be a good idea to do this, even if you didn't sand your piece; items bought from stores are sometimes dusty, which can prevent the primer and paint from sticking.



Apply a coat of primer. You can use the brush-on kind or the spray-on kind. This will seal the wood surface, and help it take the paint better. It will also help the paint show up better, especially if you are using a light color.

Prime the front and sides first, let them dry, then prime the back.

Image titled Paint Wood Crafts Step 4



Allow the primer to dry before moving on. For an even smoother finish, you can sand the first coat of primer, wipe it clean, then apply more primer over it. Do this a few more times until there no ridges remain.







Painting and Sealing the Wood.



Pour a dollop of acrylic paint onto a palette. Choose a color for the background, then pour out a small amount onto a palette. Acrylic paint dries quickly, so don't pour out your other colors just yet. You can use the cheap, craft-grade acrylic paint that comes in bottles, or you can use the more-expensive artist's grade that comes in tubes. If you are using the artist's grade, dilute it with a few drops of water until it has the consistency of cream first.

You can use small dishes, plastic lids, and paper plates as palettes.



Apply a coat of paint over your piece. Use a foam brush or a wide, flat paintbrush to apply the paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat, if needed. Let this second coat dry as well. Do the front and sides first, let them dry to the touch, then do the back.

Look for brushes made from taklon, katakana, or sable. Avoid camel hair brushes or stiff, bristle brushes.

Don't overload the brush with paint. The paint should come no more than halfway up the bristles.



Let the paint dry, then add a second coat, if needed. How long this takes depends on the brand that you are using. Most types of acrylic paint will dry in about 20 minutes, however. If the paint is too thin, add another coat of paint, and let it dry as well.

Take this time to clean your brush(s) with water. Do not let the paint dry on the brushes.



Add your designs and details. You can use stencils or trace designs onto the wooden piece. You can also free-hand the designs as well. Apply the base color first, let it dry, then add the details. For example, if you wanted to paint a smiley face, you'd paint the yellow circle first, let it dry, then add the smile and eyes.

Dip the brush in water often to keep the paint wet, even if you are using one color.

If you are working with multiple colors, keep a cup of water nearby. Rinse the brush with water before switching to a new color.



Let the paint dry completely. Refer to the label on you tube of paint for exact drying times. Just because something feels dry to the touch does not mean that it is ready to handle or take on sealer. Every brand will be different, but you can expect this to take about 24 hours.



Apply 1 to 2 coats of sealer. Sealers come in many different finishes, including matte, glossy, and satin; choose one that you like the best. Apply a thin coat of spray-on or brush-on sealer, then let it dry. Apply a second coat, if needed, and let that one dry too.

If you are using the brush-on kind, apply it using a wide, foam brush.

If you are using a spray-on varnish, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.







Trying Other Techniques.



Skip the priming if you want to paint a design over bare wood. Instead, consider painting over the entire piece using a wood stain or a sealer. Wait for the stain or sealer to dry, then paint your designs onto the wood. Be sure to seal everything after the paint dries.



Add designs using stencils. Buy or make a stencil, then place it over the wood. Paint over the stencil using decoupage glue; this will seal the wood and prevent the paint from leaking under the stencil. Let the decoupage dry, then paint over the stencil. Peel the stencil away while the paint is still damp. Seal the wood using a spray-on or brush-on sealer.

You can make stencils using contact paper or self-adhesive vinyl.

You can use this method over bare, unsealed wood.



Use graphite paper to trace designs, then fill them in. Place a sheet of graphite paper over your piece of wood, graphite-side-down. Draw your design, then lift the paper away. Go over the outline using a thin, painted brush, then fill the design in using a flat brush. This method works best over painted wood. You can do it over bare wood, but the paint may not stick as well.

If you don't know how to draw, print the design out on tracing paper first, then place the tracing paper on top of the graphite paper.

If you are working over a dark-colored surface, make some chalk graphite paper instead: cover the back of a piece of paper with chalk, place it chalk-side-down onto the wood, then trace your design.



Create a tinted stain to show off the wood grain. Apply a thin layer of acrylic paint using a dry paintbrush. Dip a wet cloth in a small amount of paint, then rub it over the wood. This will help blend strokes together without covering up the wood grain.

The cloth should be wet, but not dripping.

Alternatively, you can paint over the entire piece using watered down acrylics or watercolor paints.



Make a DIY chalkboard. Paint the surface of the wood with 2 to 3 coats of chalkboard paint. Let the paint dry, then paint designs using normal paint onto it, if desired. Allow the chalkboard paint dry and cure completely. Cover the board with chalk, then wipe the chalk off.

Keep the designs on the edges of the wooden piece so that you can use the surface as a chalkboard.

You do not need to prime a DIY chalkboard, but sanding it would not be a bad idea.





Tips.

You can spray paint the wood first, then paint more intricate designs using acrylic paint.

Remember to prime, paint, and seal the bottom of your piece as well!

It is better to apply several thin coats of paint, primer, and sealer rather than one or two thick coats.

You get what you pay for when it comes to brushes. For the smoothest finish, consider investing in a high-quality brush.

Let the paint and sealer cure for 3 weeks before handling the piece. If you must handle the piece sooner, do so gently and with great care.

Choose your paint colors carefully. Acrylic paint typically dries 1 to 2 shades darker.

Use small, round, pointy brushes for precision and details, and wide, flat brushes for curves and backgrounds.

You don't absolutely have to prime the wood, but it is highly recommended. You can skip this step for a simple, kid's craft project, however.



Warnings.

Wear a dust mask over your face while sanding the wood for added protection.

Always using spray paint or spray-able primers/sealers outside or in a well-ventilated area.



Things You'll.

Wooden object (ie: frame, box, letter, toy car, etc).

140 to 180-grit sandpaper

Primer.

Acrylic paint.

Paintbrushes.

Sealer.


November 10, 2019


How to Make a Dog out of Mardi Gras Beads.

After a good celebration, you might find yourself with a whole bunch of leftover plastic bead necklaces. This simple craft is a cute and easy way to make use of these beads. They are made just like balloon animals, by twisting the necklace into the right shape.

Method 1 Bead dog.
1. Find the two beads melted together to form the join on the bead necklace. Give this a tug to break it. Then snip off the two "bad" beads with the melted sides.
2. Cut a string of beads twelve beads long and another two beads long. These pieces will form the body and the ears.
3. Twist four beads together behind the second bead on the long string. This will make a little square. One bead should be sticking up. This is the tail of the dog.
4. Do the same thing to the other side of the long piece except that after you twist the beads, 2 beads should be sticking out for the head. You should have one bead in between the the two sets of little squares.
5. Wrap the two beads behind the first bead on end with the two beads sticking out. This will make the ears and completes the dog.
6. Finished.

Method 2 Mardi Gras bead poodle.
1. Cut four segments from the plastic bead necklace. Cut one segment with 4 beads and three segments with 2 beads.
2. Lay out the 4-bead segment. Pick up one of the smaller segments.
3. At the space between the tip of the 4-bead segment and the second bead in that same segment, pull the small segment up so that the small segment crosses in between the beads on both segments.
4. Tighten the ears. Do this by twisting them around once.
5. Repeat with the other 2-bead segments. Except, this time, pull the small segments down instead of up, so that the ears stick up. The the legs point will also down, so the dog can stand.
6. Completed. This now makes a fine poodle.

Question : Method 2 looks too cartoonish, so I cannot see the character of the poodle. Please help.
Answer : Because of the size of the beads, the final project is the equivalent of a stick figure drawing in method 2. Method 1 is a basic "dog." To make a larger animal, it requires the beads to be supported by a wire frame to give it a realistic shape. Floral wire holds well for this purpose. Use a stick figure design with the wire, then wrap the beads around the wire. Since it is larger, try using the necklace as is for a double strand of beads.

Tips.
There are lots of things that you can do with these dogs such as adding then to a key ring, using in crafts, gluing onto hair accessories or giving them away as party treats.
Warnings.
All beads can be a choking hazard. Make sure to keep them away from small children and pets.
Things You'll Need.
A plastic Mardi Gras bead necklace
Scissors
Januari 17, 2020